I see lots of people commenting that if you're using wood, then what's the container for? I can think of a lot of uses! It's a rock solid foundation to start from! You're structure is only as good as it's foundation! If you want to build on a property but don't want to pull permits to put in a foundation, you could go this route. Not having to do dirt work saves a lot of hassle. Maybe you need to mount something super heavy on the roof, this would be perfect for that. You could put this out on a remote piece of property and have a super strong/secure little hunting cabin that could probably have a tree fall on it and survive. If you had need for a mobile office you can pick up with a telehandler, then this is perfect. If you want to bury a bunker into a hill side, this is perfect. It's a great product for some niche or outside the box thinking projects! Just because you're simple mind can't think of a use doesn't make it a bad product.
😊I’ve attached 2x20 to 1x40 all of them are 2/3’ above grade on 18x20”x4’ sonatubes I’ve added a 5/12 to the front and 6/12 to the rear I have a 14’ high center gable and 2x6 metal studs around the entire perimeter Anyone seeing it the first time would never know it’s a container Radiant floor plus wood burner and propane 8kW solar batteries etc for 💯% offgrid living 😉👍🏼🇺🇸
Nice instructions. I would recommend using treated lumber for the plate (base lumber that is running horizontal). You're going to have moisture coming down the outsides of the finished exterior. If the lumber at the bottom is not pressure treated it will most likely rot over time and invite termites etc.
I'm a metal guy too but when using wood, you should add a hammer to your tool belt to use when you need to persuade wood members to fit. Using your impact driver as a hammer could be very expensive. Living in Minnesota, any sort of structure that doesn't lend itself to being insulated is a problem. I subscribed and will definitely check out your brackets.
👍 Yup I should have one around but not interested in lugging it around. That's why I said "hard on tools". I don't even know if we have a framing hammer in our tool crib now that I think of it haha.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I am curious if it's not "Better" to "Stud" the "High Side" of the "Waffle Skin, versus your application to Stud the Low Side (Indented) of the Waffle?
Consider running the studs up an extra foot high on one side to allow a sloped roof. A little over 1:12 slope, for panel rib metal roofing. Fire blocking at the ceiling line, and attic ventilation will also be important.
Just because you said "a husband and wife in inappropriate clothing" makes me want to only follow your advice. I totally agree with you... their clickbait is what brings in the views. I am getting ready to purchase a container and want to build a deck on it for the ocean views we have. This it the only roof top deck that seems to be properly done and exactly the kind I would trust more. Thanks, Oh... and the fact that I can insulate outside of the living quarters is so much smarter. I never liked the idea of that chemical being inside the container.
I think the bottom ones should have a flange that you can screw the bottom plate onto instead of toenailing. If the edge of it was dropped to be flush with the metal lip on the bottom, that would be even better. Nice job, keep them coming.
Excellent video. Regarding the stud-to-roof connection, you could utilize a horizontal through hole in the bracket to attach another bracket that would hold the roof rafter. The rafters could pivot on the bolt to accommodate different roof pitches. This way, the roof would be attached to the container as well as the studs.
A roof bracket with a height adjustment on the outer side and middle, you could roof the container and a side area (plus give an air gap between container and roof) keeps the container cooler in warmer weather. Could also catch the water containment for later use.
An adjustable angle roof would allow for maximized solar by changing the pitch of the roof / angle of the panels to correspond to the angle of the Sun due to the season. This would eliminate the need for added weight and cost of adjustable frames on top of the roof.
I would suggest adding an overhang on the sidewalls to keep most of the rain off the sidewall entirely. Say something in the 2 to 4 foot line. This shaded sidewall should reduce heat in summer due to direct sun on the container as well.
You should do a video on how to deal with the condensation problem inside shipping containers…. Location location location … sea level. / On a mountain .. heat and humidity.. proper ventilation.. cold to warm .. .. interior surfaces sweating / mold build up …. Metal containers are famous for this problem..
I like the idea of the exterior bracket it would make it easier build on to the container I'm glad Canadian prepper sent me to your Channel I am learning a lot
Consider redesigning that top bracket to accommodate the top plate, move those outside ears back a bit. Redesign the bottom bracket to hold the bottom plate. With the insulation you could split the sides of the batt in a few inches to tuck it in behind the stud and create a bit of a thermal break and make use of that extra width.
I think you are a good thinker! Always analyzing, a better way to get er’ dun! Looking out for what Mother Nature can throw at ya not to mention human nature. I watched all your videos today. First time I’ve seen your projects. Starting with the 2 into 1 double wide. Well done. Only thing I think you could throw in is to quick wire brush on a small drill motor to kill off the rust mites just b4 you zinc paint. Then it is A1 Primo. Thanks for your efforts Steven Krebs
Once again you guys are leading the way! Those brackets look plenty strong, perhaps thinner stock would work as well and reduce cost. I'll have to figure out how to attach a pitched 2by to those top brackets. The ven the large number of roof pitches used, I don't see anyway to make a line of brackets that accommodates them all. I guess do it as it's done on a stick built house, notch the rafters to sit on the top plate. I'm less sure of the economics of framing the exterior sides with 2by lumber, seems stronger than needed if typical siding is to be used. After all the container provides a rigid shell. But being able to side it hides less than perfect containers and no doubt allows them to blend into a typical neighborhood. I eagerly await the insulation video, as this is a major point in a container building. Just my opinion but rigid foam is probably the optimal way to go.
Yes, I thought the brackets were well over specified. Normal joist hangers are less than 1mm thick in my experience. Plenty of material could come out of those with no detriment to the structure.
@@billdoodson4232 The other point would be that while you might want beefy brackets to support a pitched conventional roof, the 22" spacing might be a problem in high snow load regions. Local code might require 16" OC. And the rafters wont line up with conventional sheathing. Someone smarter than I can figure out how to best use these.
If everyone were as skilled as you, I agree there is no need to modify shipping containers. The one argument for them is there is no concrete flatwork or foundation required and you begin with a structure from Day 1.
@@thomasschafer7268 please continue to provide input on the system as I release videos. I am not a carpenter but I feel a sense of responsibility to develop a healthy, low cost method to modify single containers with readily available materials for those who are less fortunate and need a roof over their head.
I helped a friend build a container cabin several years ago and came to the same conclusion. The result was fine, but the container really is limiting. One benefit though is that my friend needs to move to a new property soon and it will be very easy to pick up the container and move it with them.
Does the temperature stay pretty regulated in this thing or is condensation still a major issue ,as with most containers and all unvented containers ???
These are great… appreciate that you share this with us. I have gone to a competitors “Build Seminar” while I like the guy it’s interesting to see the differences in builds. I can only imagine how many people will have respiratory issues down the road due to mold issues. Not yours, so glad I found your channel.. !!
Nice.. Myself, I would use spray foam insolation on the outside, So if you use steel studs on the outside and spray foam and with metal siding. It should last for many many decades.. Thank you for sharing, love you're thinking outside the box..
This is exactly what I'm thinking of doing with my 20'. I want the inside to stay as is I'm just going to build a wall inside the doors to set AC, etc.
I definitely see infinite potential with these brackets. I see myself putting a culvert ontop of and these studs allow you to build a wood base for a bracket to hold a living culvert it allows for plenty of room to let cold winds to go under rather than deflection up and around and hurting the value
You mentioned those other container modders on youtube. It'd be cool to see you do some reviews of their work by editing together their vids and doing a voice over. Of course they've got a lot of footage to cover, not all of it actually building, but a lot of your fans have been learning from their experiences, and if you can make predictions about the good and bad that they've done and recommend alternatives, I think we'd enjoy that a lot, and the increased views for them (and maybe back from them to you) would help everyone.
Id been looking for something like this. Add a Simpson Modular home foldable hinge for a foldable roof, would make a great modular home. The bottom bracket needs a lip/C-Channel to align in the pocket and parallel to the edge
Nice, looks like it would be easy to shim one side of the roof brackets to pitch the roof for rain drainage. Nice plate to attach fascia and you run your wiring exterior only penetrating the container where absolutely necessary.
Love those brackets.. while I am no expert on framing or containers.. with the top brackets.. if you wanted to push the stud in an inch and a half, I'd prefer a mounting screw hole that's further in from the end.. those 2x4 have a tendency to split if you drive screws in too close to the ends.. maybe a slightly different bracket design with a wider front post that allows you to secure further from the end...
1200/2200 bucks? I would have been interested in the top bracket to build an overhang for my patio but I would probably only need six maybe eight. Any chance in the future you’ll have individual pricing?
A buddy of mine bought a 8 X 20ft used container for storage. It cost him $1800. If it's used for storage it saves time but if you are looking to build a mini home or micro home you would be better off to just buy the wood and build one. I live in a cold climate and it needs to be insulated so you would still have to buy wood and insulation for it. Using a container would be more expensive.
100% 🎯 ... I've often wondered why anyone would convert a shipping container into a home when you could just frame the whole thing out of wood or metal and clad it in metal siding to give it the look they're after
I had made a comment in the past about exterior framing because interior framing would take up too much of already limited space in the container. Thank you
😊👍if your next door neighbor is a garage building company you much have fun ragging each other. Have you ever tried to get in touch with Nate from Canada Pepper,s channel.(Big following.)I’m sure lots of his subscribers are interested in of grid buildings.Nate has had a few videos with different companies on his channel that have different building ideas.
Four thousand 400 dollars 2 do my 2 40ft containers is a crazy price. Thats without shipping 2 Australia. Will the price come down at all?? I love all your products , but struggle with the prices. I understand they are fit for purpose but we pay about 4k for a 40ft high cube.
Agreed, I really like these brackets, but the price isn't realistic for me either. I get they aren't made in China, so the price is paying for Canadian materials and labour rate, but at the end of the day it's either viable or it's not.
@@throughjordanseyes4024 design your own brackets in fusion 360 then send the flat pattern to a plasma cutting and bending service for a quoute. Really simple
@@langdons2848 Yeah the Kit for a 40 foot top and bottom is 92 pieces (I believe) for 1,850 dollars. I assume that's USD, but could be Canadian? Either way, it also comes with the screws. It's only $20 a bracket. So not like a terrible price per bracket but when you need 92 of them it does add up fast. I bet if they could get a bigger production going they could come down on price but that'd require a lot of sales and investment on their end. Like normal joist hangers for a deck or a house I'm sure they're made in the tens of millions and shipped all around the world, so they can get a lot better price per unit because of the vast amount being made. It's always a lot harder for smaller guys to get those quantity discounts. I really like these brackets but at 1,800 dollars it's basically the cost of a used container. Really good idea though. If I was them I'd try to see if one of these big manufactures doing joist hangers would want to take over their production to get the prices lower. If I were gonna buy these, I'd want to see a price of about half of what they're charging now. Otherwise you may as well just figure out a DIY system.
Channing, rather than drilling and screwing the bracket into the container, what are your thoughts about grinding clean and welding the bracket. Then following it up with a good primer. I hope to hear back as I am building a home out of two 45 foot High cube containers in South Georgia.
Maybe use a treated 2x for your sole plate? You could use treated lumber all the way around for that matter but for the bottom component it makes sense. Btw, “roof studs” are called “rafters”. Great work!
Exterior Brackets are huge break thru - thinking outside the box (container box)... LOL Easy way to insulate container & air gap / thermal break for moisture.
-----Keep up the good work, I need the next steps, two 20' cons side by side with two rooms on top, then deck coming off both sides; or wrapping around.
I’m looking at getting a 20ft container to start with and I plan to build of that and build a upper level wish you guys wasn’t so expensive I’ll have to come up with other ideas until prices come down
Avoid Cellulose and use blown-in mineral wool like attic insulation. Cellulose wicks moisture. Very interesting idea to blow it in. Thanks for your input. I am going to interview my insulation guy and ask him a bunch of questions. I'll ask him about this and give a shout out to Choubaka! We'll see what he says.
Simpson makes lots of brackets/clips n things that work for a dollar or two a piece. I also would use powder actuated gun n shoot nails right into steel. But i just an old carpenter
It's really awesome what you are doing. You are really giving me some great ideas. I look forward to more videos showing actual examples (even if they are just animated). God Bless 🙏
A two-floor small home built on top of a shipping like this, honestly sounds like a better idea than living inside the container itself. The container can be used for day activities like as a workshop, office, or go all the way back around to being primarily storage. I suspect choosing to insulate externally and keeping it metal inside will make it a bit echo-y, can you confirm that?
A two by four fits sideways between the top lip of the container and the bottom lip, no need for brackets! Then the side protrudes just enough outside the waffles to run your siding on. I’ll retrofit hurricane clips for the top. Way to pricey !!!
That's great! Can you design something with no thermal bridging from outside to inside or from outside to the metal? Perhaps some plastic fasteners could be made.
Great video, subscribing to this site has been monumental in reducing the learning curve! Could the outer wall be done in steel studs instead of the wood?
I'd like to see how you transition the sides to the door end and the closed end. By the way the brackets are awesome. Spray foam the outside. No having to build interior walls. Just partition walls right?
th-cam.com/video/Y5oEXhtmLEQ/w-d-xo.html I address it a bit in this video. Not the doors too much. Still haven't got there. Honestly might be best to frame and insulate right over them and not try and keep them operational. Or remove them and install a patio door set.
We recently purchased a shipping container to use as a shed / workshop then our township decided that they will no longer allow them so we decided to turn ours into a shed that matches our Amish built wooden one. These brackets will help with that.
I really like this idea and your vids are always awesome. The cost is a little steep ... I'd like to see it about 40% less than what's posted. I'm trying to see what would be more advantageous this or using the insofast exterior kit. Keep up the great work!
We'll get the cost down. We're working on kits now when we find time. This system is probably the way of the future which stresses us out. Don't use the insofast. Just spray foam.. similar cost and a million times better
I think if i was building a one story house with roof, i'd take two 40ft containers and slam them together then do this, have to have the high ceilings though. A good size room is 17x15x9ft ceilings, Probably need 18 or 19 shipping containers to do a project! Most of those are walls though, the rest would be for living space and a unground pool one for a look out tower with a jogging roof around the walls. Inside space would be for a garden the pool and family area.
Excellent, brilliant engineering, I have been contemplating using a shipping container to build a tiny house and this system makes it so much easier. I am also considering using a semi -trailer to build a tiny house, I’m not a builder but how hard would it be to adapt this framing technique to a semi-trailer? Thanks for your ingenuity and innovations.
You could use a spray wax to help prevent corrosion instead of a paint or primer. Used in automotive applications. You probably could use the insulation as is, but cutting it down is really not a hard thing to do.
May I suggest a better anti-rusting solution for the bottom bracket? Instead of using the Zinc coat paint, the best-of-the-best is to use an automotive coating like a 'Wax Rust Proofing' compound which may be _'POR-15'_ or _'KBS Cavity Coater'_ or one of the best being a permanent wax based coating.... _'PRO FORM PF 708-1'_
I love suggestions. Great ideas. I'll look them up. Thanks. I'm not sure the rust there was a huge issue and I'm certain not many people who buy them will actually protect the metals. Time will tell I guess.
@@TheContainerGuyTV In my automotive experiences, my focus is more to protecting the lower bracket rather than the shipping container itself since the gauging is super thick on the container compared to the lower bracket and it would be very easy to coat the entire bracket in wax rust proofing compound to permanently stop corrosion. Even with galvanized metal, people think that it will never corrode, but it doesn't take much for corrosion to eat to the base metal and I've seen it a million times! It may also seem that I'm over protecting the metal, but once rust starts, it will eat metal to the point of turning it into dust and that would be a pain in the rear to have to rip walls apart to fix a problem that should never have happened in the first place. Just my 5-cents worth...👍😎
shots fired! what kind of lumber would you be using for those 2x4s? is borate or pressure treated wood worth the extra cost? would it just be possible to do steel exterior studs too? i guess that defeats the purpose because people want to cut costs with wood framing and use fiberglass insulation
Pressure treated lumber is very corrosive, I wouldn’t recommend it! If you want to get more durability you could use a wood primer but the in wall space should be dry. If you’re getting condensation a dimple mat vapor barrier against the container will help to prevent moisture buildup. Then using the mineral wool insulation would be the best option other than spray foam.
I live in the southern US where it is very humid, both summer and winter. Every house I have seen built in the last 40 years has been built with fiberglass insulation and nobody is the worse for it.
That's a lie. There will be lots of mold problems in your area and people have health problems because of it. Fibreglass against wood/drywall is a lot different than fibreglass against steel. My house has fiberglass insulation in the walls and roof and is also fine. Containers are different.
Sir I am not contradicting you, just telling you how it is. If you wish I can show you all over my area where they use this insulation successfully in apartments and houses. I stress again, I am not fighting you, I am actually with you and only commented because I like your work. This insulation is fine at least in Georgia. I cannot say either way in any other place of the world but here it is normal. @@TheContainerGuyTV
We not only use fiberglass batting but also fiberglass blown-in insulation. Now there are a lot of experimental stuff going on and that is cool, but fiberglass is still relatively the king. Love your content and hope to see much more of it! And no, it is not a lie and nor am I.@@TheContainerGuyTV
I am looking in the next decade or less to build connex box housing for my family and you have great info and products so I will keep watching.@@TheContainerGuyTV
@@TheContainerGuyTV Yo bro! I think we were talking parallel to each other! I was talking fiberglass insulation in relation to traditional housing and you were talking in relation to connex boxes! Well you and I are both right! I know not about metal houses so I guess we were talking from different angles but all is good! Still want to learn more, my friend!
It would go much quicker just welding those brackets on. Make them thicker with just one side and eliminate the U bend ups and will nest better on the laser. Bolt and nut with large washer for roof or deck supports. Plenty strong with sheeting being attached on top of the studs. It has no real load bearing except at the top brackets.
At 5:28 I can see you pre taped your holes, did you use a tap or did you use a self tapping bolt. It almost looks like you did this to make the assembly look easier, however I’m SURE this wasn’t the case. What I did was weld an angle iron horizontally where your brackets are and sat the end of the 2x4 on it so NO wood was exposed. Those brackets and bolts are expensive.
I have a question for you, I am building my home and a garage out of containers. This question is about the garage, It consists of 2 40 ft containers separated by 12 feet that will be a concrete slab. I have cut out half of one wall and am surprised at how springy it is. The boxes are supported on their ends and a concrete pier in the center. I like the idea of welding bar stock in the C channel to stiffen the floor, What would you consider to be the minimum bar stock to use. I don't plan on driving onto the containers, vehicle traffic will be restricted to the concrete slab, except maybe my lawn mower and motorcycle. Thanks and I enjoy your content greatly.
Can just use the top brackets but this has been asked so many times that we are going to make a "truss" bracket for this exact application. Give us a month or so.
I see lots of people commenting that if you're using wood, then what's the container for? I can think of a lot of uses! It's a rock solid foundation to start from! You're structure is only as good as it's foundation! If you want to build on a property but don't want to pull permits to put in a foundation, you could go this route. Not having to do dirt work saves a lot of hassle. Maybe you need to mount something super heavy on the roof, this would be perfect for that. You could put this out on a remote piece of property and have a super strong/secure little hunting cabin that could probably have a tree fall on it and survive. If you had need for a mobile office you can pick up with a telehandler, then this is perfect. If you want to bury a bunker into a hill side, this is perfect. It's a great product for some niche or outside the box thinking projects! Just because you're simple mind can't think of a use doesn't make it a bad product.
Smart man
Also wood is cheap and no welding. 🤣
I'd agree. I think the price is what makes this a hard pill to swallow.
I would only use a container if it was free. Otherwise just use wood and someone might even buy the structure from you when you want to sell.
@@badawesome Or use a container, and you can sell the container and have it moved off of your property, instead of having to sell the entire property.
I love how you guys are always thinking and responding to new ideas based on feedback!
Great starting point. You’re the catalyst for our ideas. Now I can insulate the container without loosing interior square footage. Thanks again.
Awesome! Knowing we're helping others makes it all worth it.. Thanks for watching 🙏
So we don't need to insulate the interior at all?
Aircrete could be used for the insulation. 🤔
Your the man great information thank you
😊I’ve attached 2x20 to 1x40 all of them are 2/3’ above grade on 18x20”x4’ sonatubes I’ve added a 5/12 to the front and 6/12 to the rear I have a 14’ high center gable and 2x6 metal studs around the entire perimeter Anyone seeing it the first time would never know it’s a container
Radiant floor plus wood burner and propane 8kW solar batteries etc for 💯% offgrid living 😉👍🏼🇺🇸
A lip that locates the foot of the lower brackets flush to the edge of the container would be a slick addition to the bracket design.
Nice instructions. I would recommend using treated lumber for the plate (base lumber that is running horizontal). You're going to have moisture coming down the outsides of the finished exterior. If the lumber at the bottom is not pressure treated it will most likely rot over time and invite termites etc.
I'm a metal guy too but when using wood, you should add a hammer to your tool belt to use when you need to persuade wood members to fit. Using your impact driver as a hammer could be very expensive. Living in Minnesota, any sort of structure that doesn't lend itself to being insulated is a problem. I subscribed and will definitely check out your brackets.
👍 Yup I should have one around but not interested in lugging it around.
That's why I said "hard on tools". I don't even know if we have a framing hammer in our tool crib now that I think of it haha.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I am curious if it's not "Better" to "Stud" the "High Side" of the "Waffle Skin, versus your application to Stud the Low Side (Indented) of the Waffle?
Consider running the studs up an extra foot high on one side to allow a sloped roof. A little over 1:12 slope, for panel rib metal roofing. Fire blocking at the ceiling line, and attic ventilation will also be important.
if you want a sloped roof. I want a roof deck
Check back in this Saturday ;)
Just because you said "a husband and wife in inappropriate clothing" makes me want to only follow your advice. I totally agree with you... their clickbait is what brings in the views. I am getting ready to purchase a container and want to build a deck on it for the ocean views we have. This it the only roof top deck that seems to be properly done and exactly the kind I would trust more. Thanks, Oh... and the fact that I can insulate outside of the living quarters is so much smarter. I never liked the idea of that chemical being inside the container.
I think the bottom ones should have a flange that you can screw the bottom plate onto instead of toenailing. If the edge of it was dropped to be flush with the metal lip on the bottom, that would be even better. Nice job, keep them coming.
Excellent video. Regarding the stud-to-roof connection, you could utilize a horizontal through hole in the bracket to attach another bracket that would hold the roof rafter. The rafters could pivot on the bolt to accommodate different roof pitches. This way, the roof would be attached to the container as well as the studs.
Great idea
Exactly
Yep you are right on!
A roof bracket with a height adjustment on the outer side and middle, you could roof the container and a side area (plus give an air gap between container and roof) keeps the container cooler in warmer weather. Could also catch the water containment for later use.
An adjustable angle roof would allow for maximized solar by changing the pitch of the roof / angle of the panels to correspond to the angle of the Sun due to the season. This would eliminate the need for added weight and cost of adjustable frames on top of the roof.
I would suggest adding an overhang on the sidewalls to keep most of the rain off the sidewall entirely. Say something in the 2 to 4 foot line. This shaded sidewall should reduce heat in summer due to direct sun on the container as well.
Finally! Was waiting for exterior framing for ages 😅 jolly well done 👍🏻
You should do a video on how to deal with the condensation problem inside shipping containers…. Location location location … sea level. / On a mountain .. heat and humidity.. proper ventilation.. cold to warm .. .. interior surfaces sweating / mold build up …. Metal containers are famous for this problem..
yes i agree with your idea even tho i think this would be a challange
Another option to prevent the brackets from rusting would be to use a rubber gasket or butyl tape (could use an old tire tube for the material)
I like the idea of the exterior bracket it would make it easier build on to the container I'm glad Canadian prepper sent me to your Channel I am learning a lot
Glad you're enjoying it. Got some cool mods in the pipeline - I'm excited to get those videos edited and released to you all. Stay tuned!
Consider redesigning that top bracket to accommodate the top plate, move those outside ears back a bit. Redesign the bottom bracket to hold the bottom plate. With the insulation you could split the sides of the batt in a few inches to tuck it in behind the stud and create a bit of a thermal break and make use of that extra width.
Good advice.
The studs should only have to support insulation and sheathing. Your container is the structural component.
I think you are a good thinker! Always analyzing, a better way to get er’ dun! Looking out for what Mother Nature can throw at ya not to mention human nature. I watched all your videos today. First time I’ve seen your projects. Starting with the 2 into 1 double wide. Well done. Only thing I think you could throw in is to quick wire brush on a small drill motor to kill off the rust mites just b4 you zinc paint. Then it is A1 Primo. Thanks for your efforts Steven Krebs
Thanks Steven!
Great ideas. Thanks and we'll see you next time.
Once again you guys are leading the way! Those brackets look plenty strong, perhaps thinner stock would work as well and reduce cost. I'll have to figure out how to attach a pitched 2by to those top brackets. The ven the large number of roof pitches used, I don't see anyway to make a line of brackets that accommodates them all. I guess do it as it's done on a stick built house, notch the rafters to sit on the top plate. I'm less sure of the economics of framing the exterior sides with 2by lumber, seems stronger than needed if typical siding is to be used. After all the container provides a rigid shell. But being able to side it hides less than perfect containers and no doubt allows them to blend into a typical neighborhood.
I eagerly await the insulation video, as this is a major point in a container building. Just my opinion but rigid foam is probably the optimal way to go.
Yes, I thought the brackets were well over specified. Normal joist hangers are less than 1mm thick in my experience. Plenty of material could come out of those with no detriment to the structure.
@@billdoodson4232 The other point would be that while you might want beefy brackets to support a pitched conventional roof, the 22" spacing might be a problem in high snow load regions. Local code might require 16" OC. And the rafters wont line up with conventional sheathing. Someone smarter than I can figure out how to best use these.
Easy problem to solve. See my comment above.
As a german carpenter master i can say build without a Container. No condens and your free in place for rooms.
If everyone were as skilled as you, I agree there is no need to modify shipping containers. The one argument for them is there is no concrete flatwork or foundation required and you begin with a structure from Day 1.
@@TheContainerGuyTV correct. Point foundation is the Future. No massive concrete. 1m3 concrete in germany is 220€.🙄🙄
@@thomasschafer7268 please continue to provide input on the system as I release videos. I am not a carpenter but I feel a sense of responsibility to develop a healthy, low cost method to modify single containers with readily available materials for those who are less fortunate and need a roof over their head.
I helped a friend build a container cabin several years ago and came to the same conclusion. The result was fine, but the container really is limiting. One benefit though is that my friend needs to move to a new property soon and it will be very easy to pick up the container and move it with them.
Does the temperature stay pretty regulated in this thing or is condensation still a major issue ,as with most containers and all unvented containers ???
These are great… appreciate that you share this with us. I have gone to a competitors “Build Seminar” while I like the guy it’s interesting to see the differences in builds. I can only imagine how many people will have respiratory issues down the road due to mold issues. Not yours, so glad I found your channel.. !!
You are killing it. Love all your development
Thanks for sticking around
Nice..
Myself, I would use spray foam insolation on the outside, So if you use steel studs on the outside and spray foam and with metal siding. It should last for many many decades..
Thank you for sharing, love you're thinking outside the box..
This is exactly what I'm thinking of doing with my 20'. I want the inside to stay as is I'm just going to build a wall inside the doors to set AC, etc.
Nice! Exactly what I need!
I definitely see infinite potential with these brackets. I see myself putting a culvert ontop of and these studs allow you to build a wood base for a bracket to hold a living culvert it allows for plenty of room to let cold winds to go under rather than deflection up and around and hurting the value
You mentioned those other container modders on youtube. It'd be cool to see you do some reviews of their work by editing together their vids and doing a voice over. Of course they've got a lot of footage to cover, not all of it actually building, but a lot of your fans have been learning from their experiences, and if you can make predictions about the good and bad that they've done and recommend alternatives, I think we'd enjoy that a lot, and the increased views for them (and maybe back from them to you) would help everyone.
Id been looking for something like this.
Add a Simpson Modular home foldable hinge for a foldable roof, would make a great modular home.
The bottom bracket needs a lip/C-Channel to align in the pocket and parallel to the edge
I'm looking to build a container cabin. What an excellent option Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Good videos on this system to come
Nice, looks like it would be easy to shim one side of the roof brackets to pitch the roof for rain drainage. Nice plate to attach fascia and you run your wiring exterior only penetrating the container where absolutely necessary.
Love those brackets.. while I am no expert on framing or containers.. with the top brackets.. if you wanted to push the stud in an inch and a half, I'd prefer a mounting screw hole that's further in from the end.. those 2x4 have a tendency to split if you drive screws in too close to the ends.. maybe a slightly different bracket design with a wider front post that allows you to secure further from the end...
you could predrill
------Yes, I like where you went with this video, my climate is like a marsh.
Mate use hex head wood screws instead of the Phillips head to mount the studs,unless you need them to be flush.
Yeah the larger hole would fit a 1/4" hex head. Good call. Doesn't need to be flush
1200/2200 bucks? I would have been interested in the top bracket to build an overhang for my patio but I would probably only need six maybe eight. Any chance in the future you’ll have individual pricing?
I'm pretty sure they sell the top brackets individually now
You can use foam board add well
Awesome you gave several options on screw holes. Personally, I’ll just use the wood screw holes.
This is supper cool.
A buddy of mine bought a 8 X 20ft used container for storage. It cost him $1800. If it's used for storage it saves time but if you are looking to build a mini home or micro home you would be better off to just buy the wood and build one. I live in a cold climate and it needs to be insulated so you would still have to buy wood and insulation for it. Using a container would be more expensive.
100% 🎯 ... I've often wondered why anyone would convert a shipping container into a home when you could just frame the whole thing out of wood or metal and clad it in metal siding to give it the look they're after
Great stuff as always!
Liked and subscribed. Love this. Thanks. D.
Thanks. Good stuff to come🤘
I had made a comment in the past about exterior framing because interior framing would take up too much of already limited space in the container. Thank you
Genius!
That is increíble my friend.🙏👍🇺🇸
😊👍if your next door neighbor is a garage building company you much have fun ragging each other.
Have you ever tried to get in touch with Nate from Canada Pepper,s channel.(Big following.)I’m sure lots of his subscribers are interested in of grid buildings.Nate has had a few videos with different companies on his channel that have different building ideas.
Nate and I collaborated on this video: th-cam.com/video/NZYsck-4idk/w-d-xo.html
Four thousand 400 dollars 2 do my 2 40ft containers is a crazy price. Thats without shipping 2 Australia. Will the price come down at all?? I love all your products , but struggle with the prices. I understand they are fit for purpose but we pay about 4k for a 40ft high cube.
same here
Agreed, I really like these brackets, but the price isn't realistic for me either. I get they aren't made in China, so the price is paying for Canadian materials and labour rate, but at the end of the day it's either viable or it's not.
@@throughjordanseyes4024 design your own brackets in fusion 360 then send the flat pattern to a plasma cutting and bending service for a quoute. Really simple
@@langdons2848 Yeah the Kit for a 40 foot top and bottom is 92 pieces (I believe) for 1,850 dollars. I assume that's USD, but could be Canadian? Either way, it also comes with the screws. It's only $20 a bracket. So not like a terrible price per bracket but when you need 92 of them it does add up fast. I bet if they could get a bigger production going they could come down on price but that'd require a lot of sales and investment on their end. Like normal joist hangers for a deck or a house I'm sure they're made in the tens of millions and shipped all around the world, so they can get a lot better price per unit because of the vast amount being made. It's always a lot harder for smaller guys to get those quantity discounts. I really like these brackets but at 1,800 dollars it's basically the cost of a used container. Really good idea though. If I was them I'd try to see if one of these big manufactures doing joist hangers would want to take over their production to get the prices lower. If I were gonna buy these, I'd want to see a price of about half of what they're charging now. Otherwise you may as well just figure out a DIY system.
@@dedalliance1I agree, Simpson could do this for ¼ the price an still make $$
Extend 2bys out for sofffit. Compatible with many or all rafter brackets I assume. Peak roofing vent for moisture escape.
I told my wife that this is what we would do if we would build a shipping container home.
Appears you were listening as well.
Hahaha nah guys don't listen.. ask your wife
@@TheContainerGuyTV ahahah th-cam.com/video/zJhGHFWmLDk/w-d-xo.html
Channing, rather than drilling and screwing the bracket into the container, what are your thoughts about grinding clean and welding the bracket. Then following it up with a good primer. I hope to hear back as I am building a home out of two 45 foot High cube containers in South Georgia.
Maybe use a treated 2x for your sole plate? You could use treated lumber all the way around for that matter but for the bottom component it makes sense. Btw, “roof studs” are called “rafters”. Great work!
My friend I like foam Insolation. 🙏👍🇺🇸
Exterior Brackets are huge break thru - thinking outside the box (container box)... LOL Easy way to insulate container & air gap / thermal break for moisture.
Agreed. Stresses me out thinking about all the mods we have to do now🤦🤦 Too many ideas. Not enough time.
"WONKY". That Canadian eh?! These are great.
Must be. Or Irish. Wonky Donkey
-----Keep up the good work, I need the next steps, two 20' cons side by side with two rooms on top, then deck coming off both sides; or wrapping around.
I’m looking at getting a 20ft container to start with and I plan to build of that and build a upper level wish you guys wasn’t so expensive I’ll have to come up with other ideas until prices come down
using OSB (wood) and filling from the top with cellulose wadding while using a custom tool to pack it well, what do you think about it ?
Avoid Cellulose and use blown-in mineral wool like attic insulation. Cellulose wicks moisture. Very interesting idea to blow it in. Thanks for your input.
I am going to interview my insulation guy and ask him a bunch of questions. I'll ask him about this and give a shout out to Choubaka! We'll see what he says.
Simpson makes lots of brackets/clips n things that work for a dollar or two a piece. I also would use powder actuated gun n shoot nails right into steel. But i just an old carpenter
It's really awesome what you are doing. You are really giving me some great ideas. I look forward to more videos showing actual examples (even if they are just animated). God Bless 🙏
I say let the rafters overhang 12-24" and install facia
With four of those container I could make big projector screen for drive in movie theater.
A two-floor small home built on top of a shipping like this, honestly sounds like a better idea than living inside the container itself. The container can be used for day activities like as a workshop, office, or go all the way back around to being primarily storage.
I suspect choosing to insulate externally and keeping it metal inside will make it a bit echo-y, can you confirm that?
A suggestion, leave the drawings up a bit longer so I can get a good gander.
Love this feedback. A message has been passed to the editors.
Great ideas 💡
Subscribed 👍🏽
Happy to have you. Great stuff to come👌
Those brackets should work well the use of engineered 2x4 would be preferred
I bet if you used metal beams, this could be used for the container support for underground container homes!!!
WOW!
THE ENTIRE PROJECT WOULD BE SO MUCH EASIER AND VERSATILE .
IF YOU GOT RID OF THAT OLD NARROW METAL CAN!
This is a fantastic method well done. Very helpful.
Thank you, helpful tops
WAY---WAY OVER PRICED... $2,100 FOR 100 PIECES Thats 20+ for each stamped steel bracket.. hurricane clips cost 1.25 ea.!!!
A two by four fits sideways between the top lip of the container and the bottom lip, no need for brackets! Then the side protrudes just enough outside the waffles to run your siding on. I’ll retrofit hurricane clips for the top. Way to pricey !!!
Right? But then again everything this guy sells is overpriced...his man doors are 5x the price of similar man doors.. lol he cracks me up
... they're probably being made on a "first come first serve" request 🤔 ...like the way blacksmiths used to build stuff.
It’s expensive… do they make it in house?????🎉🎉
Yes he is crazy as hell with stupidity for prices
That's great! Can you design something with no thermal bridging from outside to inside or from outside to the metal? Perhaps some plastic fasteners could be made.
Great video, subscribing to this site has been monumental in reducing the learning curve! Could the outer wall be done in steel studs instead of the wood?
I'd like to see how you transition the sides to the door end and the closed end. By the way the brackets are awesome. Spray foam the outside. No having to build interior walls. Just partition walls right?
th-cam.com/video/Y5oEXhtmLEQ/w-d-xo.html
I address it a bit in this video. Not the doors too much. Still haven't got there. Honestly might be best to frame and insulate right over them and not try and keep them operational. Or remove them and install a patio door set.
We recently purchased a shipping container to use as a shed / workshop then our township decided that they will no longer allow them so we decided to turn ours into a shed that matches our Amish built wooden one. These brackets will help with that.
I really like this idea and your vids are always awesome. The cost is a little steep ... I'd like to see it about 40% less than what's posted. I'm trying to see what would be more advantageous this or using the insofast exterior kit.
Keep up the great work!
We'll get the cost down. We're working on kits now when we find time. This system is probably the way of the future which stresses us out. Don't use the insofast. Just spray foam.. similar cost and a million times better
I appreciate the response. Best of luck and keep innovating! @@TheContainerGuyTV
You could use weld studs to hold the brackets on. Then there would be no drilling.
Pretty cooo!!!
Good job amigo 🎉🎉
I think if i was building a one story house with roof, i'd take two 40ft containers and slam them together then do this, have to have the high ceilings though. A good size room is 17x15x9ft ceilings, Probably need 18 or 19 shipping containers to do a project! Most of those are walls though, the rest would be for living space and a unground pool one for a look out tower with a jogging roof around the walls. Inside space would be for a garden the pool and family area.
Excellent, brilliant engineering, I have been contemplating using a shipping container to build a tiny house and this system makes it so much easier. I am also considering using a semi -trailer to build a tiny house, I’m not a builder but how hard would it be to adapt this framing technique to a semi-trailer? Thanks for your ingenuity and innovations.
Good idea. I'm surprised that more people haven't thought about using a semi-trailer.
30 years ago someone where I lived turned a reefer into a bay house.
Definatly need either rubber membrane or a Car port type cover.
Do you have a solution for a wall-stud/roof-beam bracket at the very ends of the container box?
Price on those clips is CRAZY!!!
How is that bottom plate (wood ) attached to the container?
You could use a spray wax to help prevent corrosion instead of a paint or primer. Used in automotive applications. You probably could use the insulation as is, but cutting it down is really not a hard thing to do.
Tomorrow we're going to tackle the insulation. It's a bit of a rabbit-hole. Seems there're many ways to skin a cat
Nice job
That is ninja!
How’s the exterior insulation testing coming along? Was curious is spray foaming the outside would work out.
May I suggest a better anti-rusting solution for the bottom bracket? Instead of using the Zinc coat paint, the best-of-the-best is to use an automotive coating like a 'Wax Rust Proofing' compound which may be _'POR-15'_ or _'KBS Cavity Coater'_ or one of the best being a permanent wax based coating.... _'PRO FORM PF 708-1'_
I love suggestions. Great ideas. I'll look them up. Thanks.
I'm not sure the rust there was a huge issue and I'm certain not many people who buy them will actually protect the metals. Time will tell I guess.
@@TheContainerGuyTV
In my automotive experiences, my focus is more to protecting the lower bracket rather than the shipping container itself since the gauging is super thick on the container compared to the lower bracket and it would be very easy to coat the entire bracket in wax rust proofing compound to permanently stop corrosion.
Even with galvanized metal, people think that it will never corrode, but it doesn't take much for corrosion to eat to the base metal and I've seen it a million times!
It may also seem that I'm over protecting the metal, but once rust starts, it will eat metal to the point of turning it into dust and that would be a pain in the rear to have to rip walls apart to fix a problem that should never have happened in the first place. Just my 5-cents worth...👍😎
shots fired!
what kind of lumber would you be using for those 2x4s? is borate or pressure treated wood worth the extra cost?
would it just be possible to do steel exterior studs too? i guess that defeats the purpose because people want to cut costs with wood framing and use fiberglass insulation
Pressure treated lumber is very corrosive, I wouldn’t recommend it! If you want to get more durability you could use a wood primer but the in wall space should be dry. If you’re getting condensation a dimple mat vapor barrier against the container will help to prevent moisture buildup. Then using the mineral wool insulation would be the best option other than spray foam.
ty for the reply @@OB1kyote64
Steel studs on steel container would last longer. ❤
Great !
Do you have a top bracket that has the ability to attach roof rafters at a rise(pitch),like 6/12 etc.
I live in the southern US where it is very humid, both summer and winter. Every house I have seen built in the last 40 years has been built with fiberglass insulation and nobody is the worse for it.
That's a lie. There will be lots of mold problems in your area and people have health problems because of it.
Fibreglass against wood/drywall is a lot different than fibreglass against steel. My house has fiberglass insulation in the walls and roof and is also fine. Containers are different.
Sir I am not contradicting you, just telling you how it is. If you wish I can show you all over my area where they use this insulation successfully in apartments and houses. I stress again, I am not fighting you, I am actually with you and only commented because I like your work. This insulation is fine at least in Georgia. I cannot say either way in any other place of the world but here it is normal. @@TheContainerGuyTV
We not only use fiberglass batting but also fiberglass blown-in insulation. Now there are a lot of experimental stuff going on and that is cool, but fiberglass is still relatively the king. Love your content and hope to see much more of it! And no, it is not a lie and nor am I.@@TheContainerGuyTV
I am looking in the next decade or less to build connex box housing for my family and you have great info and products so I will keep watching.@@TheContainerGuyTV
@@TheContainerGuyTV Yo bro! I think we were talking parallel to each other! I was talking fiberglass insulation in relation to traditional housing and you were talking in relation to connex boxes! Well you and I are both right! I know not about metal houses so I guess we were talking from different angles but all is good! Still want to learn more, my friend!
I could not find these brackets on Amazon. Maybe provide a link ??
With your brackets can you use steel studs instead of wood?
I'm sure you could, I'd probably use a metal stud on the bottom. And wood uprights.
Nice. However, I suggest you look up birdsmouth cut in your roof rafters
Steel stud on exterior would work better with that batten insulation since they have an extra 1 1/2” cavity.
What about spray foam insulation? Seems like a perfect spot between studs.
It would go much quicker just welding those brackets on. Make them thicker with just one side and eliminate the U bend ups and will nest better on the laser. Bolt and nut with large washer for roof or deck supports. Plenty strong with sheeting being attached on top of the studs. It has no real load bearing except at the top brackets.
At 5:28 I can see you pre taped your holes, did you use a tap or did you use a self tapping bolt. It almost looks like you did this to make the assembly look easier, however I’m SURE this wasn’t the case.
What I did was weld an angle iron horizontally where your brackets are and sat the end of the 2x4 on it so NO wood was exposed. Those brackets and bolts are expensive.
I have a question for you, I am building my home and a garage out of containers. This question is about the garage, It consists of 2 40 ft containers separated by 12 feet that will be a concrete slab. I have cut out half of one wall and am surprised at how springy it is. The boxes are supported on their ends and a concrete pier in the center. I like the idea of welding bar stock in the C channel to stiffen the floor, What would you consider to be the minimum bar stock to use. I don't plan on driving onto the containers, vehicle traffic will be restricted to the concrete slab, except maybe my lawn mower and motorcycle. Thanks and I enjoy your content greatly.
Very cool. Would we have to use the vertical bottom brackets in order to build a roof or could we just use the top brackets?
Can just use the top brackets but this has been asked so many times that we are going to make a "truss" bracket for this exact application. Give us a month or so.