I like the wood option for interior framing. I live in Northern Ontario and stick framed the interior of my container Bunkie with pressure treated lumber and 2” of closed cell, spray foam insulation. I feel it’s perfectly fine. This product would have made my install much easier, especially when working alone. Thx for your continued support in developing products. Much appreciated!
Great Channel, always learn something new. Yes sell the wood options for utility/work shops - temperate climates. But we get your point about close cell insulation with steel being the better option.
I think the creativity of your team, increasing efficiency and reducing installation stress, is noble and awesome! It's best to avoid the wood on the inside as it just takes too much space away--every inch matters. Your Modular Strut System is far better, especially when combined with the closed cell foam. That being said, since there's such an aversion to metal framing in North America, probably would be good to re-design your brackets so the studs would work sideways (parallel to the wall) and thus have a few inches more on the interior and allow for wood framing~sort of compromise.
I have learned so much from your videos, I wish to thank you for your knowledge. I live in Northern Indiana, USA. I also believe people from Canada are wonderful people. Sometime next year I plan on framing the inside of my 20 box.
I like the wood option and would be interested in purchasing it. There are those of us that just use containers for storage and aren't necessarily worried about condensation. Steel studs aren't as readily available as dimensional lumber in my area. The wood stud brackets would make an easy job of framing up the inside of a container for storage.
I didn't even think about the WSB's purpose for shelving, tools cribs, etc. 🤦🤦 THANK YOU for bringing up the obvious! This alone is a reason for the product I can stand behind. I have literally had a few hundred of them in stock for 6 months and just tucked them under a shelf..
@@TheContainerGuyTV I would love to have some of the WSBs for framing up a work bench on one side of a container that I use for storage and a work area.
I'm interested in the timber brackets for external use. I'd then roof and insulate on the outside so that the steel of the container doesn't heat up so much in our sun. Also an easier way to cover joints in multiple containers.
Another great and informative video.. I would keep the wood option.. I live in Texas and I have yet to have an issue with condensation.. I want to panel part of my container to allow me to put up shelves.. steel would be cost prohibitive.. I only use it as a store so full paneling or steel studs aren't required..
100% agree with you for steel ... we are framing for such a small area why not just spend a little more to never have to worry about mold super excited about the exterior brackets can't wait to see you insulate them
This insulation video keeps getting pushed back because of weather and other factors (next 3 weeks videos are going to be awesome). My apologies for the delay. Let me know any ideas on the insulation before we shoot it. I'll be asking an expert their opinion.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I'm very interested in the exterior insulation as I think preventing the heat or cold from getting to the can in the first place is the best way to solve a lot of problems. I'm just wondering how to insulate the underside of the container? I ordered a container for a cabin cluster and don't have the ability to raise it up to spray foam on the bottom side--so getting a continuous wrap-around exterior insulation is my concern, hopefully without removing the floor.
These have to be one of the best solutions for limiting thermal bridging in containers that I’ve seen. Keep up the good work. Maybe consider a thin layer of polyethylene foam insulation (roll) between the container and the clamp to further reduce the bridging effect?
Howdy brother. I wanted to give some feedback to you about the systems you are describing. Closed cell spray foam acts as a vapor barrier for the interior of a project at much less than 2". I know that the code doesn't see it that way, but they are doing some voodoo calculations and have various reasons that don't apply to containerized construction. Mostly that containers are air tight. No other structure has a continuous sheathing with 0 breathing. Condensation from hot/cold differential comes from the moisture in the air. What you might consider is using eggshell paint in those types of extreme environments. It'll assist with the "vapor barrier" you are looking for. 2" of closed cell and any paint type over flat will be a fool proof system. The larger issue with such an extreme weather change is the flexing of the container due to the metal shrinking and expanding. There is no way around this unless you insulate the entire exterior. Not a good idea. If you want to talk code- your roof structure doesn't pass the US IBC for deflection. The IBC isn't really made for use-case buildings and unique systems. Your brackets don't really make alot of sense if you aren't using them to structurally support something. A 2x4 ceiling, or even the metal studs you have, don't have any weight on them. Screws would hold them together. I do think it makes the framing straighter, but unless you are building a high-end home I don't get it. I like the brackets outside. I would be weary of being able to waterproof the connection. This is why most everyone builds a ledger. Cheers!
Hi Sean. Thank you very much for your insightful comments and opinions. Keep them coming in future videos. I'm learning with you guys as we try new things
I like the wood stud clips for exterior use. I recommend that you sell them with a disclaimer stating that you do not recommend their use in interior spaces that are intended to be conditioned or occupied. These clips would be useful for spanning the gap between containers in parallel. I can see them being used in that application to create a loft or mezzanine in a two container high building with a roof on top. Even here in Northern California, I would not use wooden studs inside a shipping container. We do have a wet season here that can last up to 5 months. For a storage shed made out of a shipping container, allthread makes far more sense than wooden studs as anchorage points for shelving. Proper rot resistant studs are not inexpensive. Better to go with steel.
I'd love to see you expand your products to include the WSB's. While using wood to frame inside containers has some negative elements, there are also times it would make it more convenient for people who are used to framing in wood. A LOT of people are very unfamiliar with steel studs. I'd be interested in a product similar that would allow me to attach joists to the lower portion of the container so I could help tie in the structural elements of the composite deck I am going to put around the side and closed end wall of my 20ft container work shop/shed to give me an outside work area for some projects.
That would be great, somewhere around Central Texas. I would certainly purchase from you. A lot of people are using shipping containers in this area. Your videos have been very informative.
I would sale those wood brackets as some ppl still like the wood look or are just used to framing with wood. I think it would be an investment and great add o. To you line up of great products.
3m is a good choice for adhesive; recommend the foam extreme tape will hold far beyond it's rated strength given additional time to set/bond at normal temps. As the thin foam compresses, it keeps the adhesive against the surfaces despite surface irregularities. I use little one inch squares of the stuff building custom electronics and that much could hold two pieces of aluminum together requiring about 70 pounds to break.
Yes, wood inside the steel envelope away from bugs is probably better in AZ. What I notice is houses look extremely different across the planet yet container homes are all the same. Not right
1. Yay to the wood stud brackets, for all the reasons already outlined by other commenters, from shelving to exterior use, maybe put some warnings on the page against internal wood framing for human use. 2. Modify the guide brackets, they seem useful for lining up the steel studs, but as you said, puncturing the envelope is a bad idea, so I'd suggest focusing it on easy _temporary_ install and then removal after the stud is fixed to the corner casting. Whether it's glued or held with magnets is something that might be considered. 3. Big nay to the jumpy subtitles at the beginning, pretty annoying! Keep those to #shorts and tiktok-like platforms where you have to punch through noise.
Hey bro, I think you're a good path. I use vhs tape in my trade for over 2 decades. I'm in the 007 cladding division which involves all sorts of metal cladding. We use vhs to marry metal corners on high rises, so I think it will be fine inside a shipping container that has 0 wind loads and also is held rigid once it is insulated and then skinned with rock or whatever the finish may be. Basically, stabilizing all sub-girts in place. We do one extra step which I can go into further detail if you'd like. Keep them wheels spinning, yall are amazing.
@TheContainerGuyTV hey man, its hard to motivate and impress me. You sir at a young age are doing just that. Inspiring me to start my own container to help veterans. On the side of course till. God willing, it takes off.
Any chance you could do a video specific to containers in subtropical climates? Mine is 40 feet and I want to split it between workshop and craft room. I’m thinking a slide out work table for when the weather is gorgeous and lots of windows in the craft side.
I am wanting to do a video on Climate Zones vs Container Homes. It's a huge undertaking. Requires a bunch of research & time on my end and difficult to make it into clear, concise, entertaining video content.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I think you could partner with an architect who holds the same views as you. Architects already know how to make a container appropriate for various climates--responding to climate conditions is a major part of an architect's education (one clients rarely want to use!) Perhaps @liveinacontainer6602 would be interested?
I learned a valuable bit of knowledge from this video and of course that raises questions. How can the consumer easily identify the low-spec angle iron container box from the 60 mm tube container box? In the video at 1:18 and 1:23 you show roof profiles of the two styles, are those profiles accurate? Is there a way to differentiate between the two styles from ground level? Thank you.
In the first part of the video regarding any use of double sided tapes......here's how I use it in my applications..... first I clean both surfaces with alcohol, preferably 90 %.....medical grade 99 % not required, I mark where the bracket is to be applied.......then I apply a small patch of double sided tape, about 1/4 of the surface area...... then I apply outdoor construction adhesive, " Locktite PL3 X" is my fav....so as only to cover the area not covered with the double sided tape,,, and I lightly spread it, removing any excess so as to prevent the adhesive from migrating over the double sided tape area when pushed down into place, it doesn't take much ! .....I also apply a very thin dab on the other mating surface to insure both contact areas for the construction adhesive are covered and mate well with no voids...the double sided tape holds the bracket in place until the construction adhesive setups up...... the next day its solid ! So recapping the double sided tape is used only on 25 % of the bracket and the rest of the area is construction adhesive......ALSO where ever the double sided tape sticks to, do not put construction adhesive there either......its very simple ... I hoped I explained it so it makes sense......but it works well............
Thank you for this video. I'm considering my first container and had not thought through the possibility (probability) of mold. A big deal for me as I am allergic!
Love your videos! I just had a 40’ one trip delivered and thinking of buying a second one to join together. Had a thought that Loctite Hysol EA 9460 structural epoxy would be a good test for those brackets. We use it to glue airplanes together.
That would 100% work. After William finished up the framing on that mod, he figured they didn't need to be fastened at all because they served their purpose of defining the plane away from the wall. Is that stuff expensive or take time to mix? Possible to get tiny tubes of it? 1 part or 2 component?
I would like to see you keep the outside wood brackets because the cost of metal studs is crazy expensive in my area and being just a homeowner I dont get that bulk discount.
You should sell them as an option. Buyer Be-where! This will give options for those "situations " where steel might not be available. Understanding that it may lead to moisture / mold issues. Options are what people love though. On the order form make a section that they must acknowledge you made them aware in the video's and literature your warned them. Still options!
Love the idea of the 60 mm brackets for wood outside. I do think steel on the inside is a safer mold free design. Question. Are there products that a DYI'r can get to spray foam their own interior? Let me know. Thanks, Keep up the good work. Doug D. C. Smithing
You can buy the DIY spray foam kits but they are brutal. You need the heated reactor pumps for the chemical reaction between part A and part B work properly.
Yes please do. I cant get your products here in Australia, so I am going to have to make my own kind of brackets for my internal wood framing, which i was planning to do, but not as nice as yours. I love your whole framing system! I will also be spray insulating 2" on walls, 3" on ceilings. I would love some help with the best way to install window frames for double glazed windows. I do prefer your steel stud option as I lOVE working with steel! But.... if i dont use wooden struts, how do i screw the plywood wall cladding I have chosen, to a steel frame structure?
the end bracket with the vhb tape would be a ton stronger if you made its 3" or 4" tall instead of 1". Then use a strip at the top edge and the bottom edge.
I like the wood brackets for the outside of the container. Especially when you talk about creating a deck between two containers. I think you should sell them for that purpose at least
VHD tape takes several hours to set, heat will make it let loose, time makes it stick even better. Honestly, I'd prefer to quick epoxy them to container and hold in place with a magnet if possible. I agree with you, I don't feel the envelope should be punctured unless for windows, doors, exhaust or utilities. A bare minimum of perforations of envelope is best, less chances for moisture to find it's way inside. I work with both metal and wood, I think you should supply both options. Sure metal is straighter, quicker, easier, lighter & subjectively stronger, but wood is still preferred for some things.
I think it would be beneficial to continue to engineer and adapt the wood framing method from the point of view of the tiny home DIY builder, wood framing on the outside of the container doesn’t compromise interior room. Thanks for your ingenuity and engineering expertise.
I think you should offer the wood brackets just put a warning sheet inside the box as well as a check box when ordering telling the risks........that relieves you of liability but still gives the customer the option if they so choose
People can make their own decisions I think. Not sure if they are that evil that a disclaimer is needed. Some good uses for them actually in the comments already
What are the dimensions of the steel stud brackets? In your spray foam video a while back you said that, for a home, you’d want at least 3 inches of foam and mentioned using a deeper stud to achieve that. (You were using a 2 1/2 stud and you said that we would need to go to a 3 5/8 stud to achieve the 3 inch foam barrier) I’d like to know if your current iteration of steel stud bracket allows for that 3 inch foam barrier and the 3 5/8 stud. Thank you so much for all the great content! It’s extremely helpful.
The existing system with 1 5/8" steel studs would allow for 2.5" of foam on the inside corrugations and up to 4" on the outside corrugations. An average of 3" of foam with the SSB framing kit by alternating between 2.5" and 3.5" of foam works great. The 3" is the advice of my insulation contractor. I honestly think 2" on the walls and 3" in the ceiling is enough. My experience tells me that the floor insulation is the area most overlooked by myself and others. I would spray foam the underside 2" plus put 2" of rigid foam on top of the container floor then subfloor/finish on top of that.
Thanks for the helpful information! An average of 3” on the walls and ceilings should be just fine. However, in regard to running a 4” drain pipe through the wall I may need to get crafty and extend the brackets away from the steel tubing by another inch or two in the bathrooms in order to have enough room to properly insulate my plumbing. Ideally, I’d love for there to be at least an inch of foam between the pipes and the wall of the container. Thermal bridging straight into my plumbing would undoubtedly end in disaster. I also completely agree with the underside being overlooked. Spray foaming the underside while also adding 2” of rigid foam on top of the interior floor space would provide 25+ r value and a very solid base.
@@alecknopf we're building a bathroom right now and decided on a 2x6 wood pony wall 48" high for the plumbing to run in. This will be against the steel studs.
I’m in central Florida so it’s very hot and humid in the summer time. Would a mini split ac be enough ventilation and dehumidification without other vents be enough to avoid mold? Trying to avoid any unnecessary wholes. I’m doing steel studs with closed cell insulation. Thanks
You say that you would not use wood for framing. I just bought a container to build a tiny home. The container will have spray foam as insulations. Is wood ok for framing if using a spray foam?
Great... a little late and once the you guys stopped responding to emails I was left with the previous crappy instruction video. Now that it's already assembled and spray foamed I see this video telling me I did it wrong.
If you spray foamed it and your interior wall covering isn't falling off, you did a good job. I have been framing cans for 12 years before these. Are they "wrong"? No, just getting better every time with experience. I'm sorry you feel our video is crappy.
I want to build a small warehouse out of 2 40ft containers. I don't want them wield together. I would like a 10 foot wide pad in the middle of them, and I don't want a lot of the container cut away on the inside. I just wanted to know if wielding 2 containers together would cost more than not wielding them together?
It will be cheaper to use lumber to span 10ft across each container and cover that with a roof rather than weld 2 containers together and cut out the walls given all the structural reinforcement required. Did I understand your question right?
Hey Channing, Greeting from Australia. how about making a really sturdy recycled plastic internal version of this bracket. this would be lighter, it would be supported by the spray foam, and no thermal bridging :)
I just bought a 40’ container. I ordered the 45 vents with screen. Now I would like to add a 12’ add on to store my tractor and splitter. How do I bolt the 4x4 on top of the container without going through the roof with the bolts so I can start the add on to be 12x40 ? Would greatly appreciate your advice
Why not use a short term applied adhesive to the brackets and then tac weld them. That seems like a quick process that will drastically increase rigidity combined with the foam features.
One commenter mentioned using them to build shelving or storage solutions in their container. I have seen some crazy contraptions over the years. These brackets would significantly improve the process and not poke any holes through the walls.
If they made a container that would slide into a larger one you could spray foam the smaller and slide into the larger. As it stands so much double work with conversion of container and sometimes triple work if you cover the outside 2x4 framing is so cheap and simple you could frame a 8 x40 in the time you would grind a door opening and weld structural steel to hold the panels when they flex. SIps panels are a beautiful option but the are made with particle board and foam which is subject to rot and fire and still needs interior and exterior finish. There is clearly a way to make all in one panels with the flexibility of interior and exterior finish but it may be that infrastructure and shipping and the scale to be profitable may just be to big an issue to achieve . It would require a crowd funding project on the scale that we haven’t seen. Good luck and keep innovating. Also don’t waste your time on patents just develop the product and be first to market. Tie it with your channel and run as hard and fast as you can.
I had a question, when you spray foam the inside do you foam over the vent covers along the top. The vents with the little covers on the outside over the like 8 holes for the vent. Thanks!
Don't eliminate anything... cause you don't use it ; some crazy guy like me may say it is perfect for the application needed. The big box stores are cutting back and not supplying the average install since the pandemic. As you know, not all sc creations are the same... make more and supply dreams.
I'm interested, I have two 40ft brand new containers I'm looking to convert into an airbnb liveable units. Would love to work with you on this project, and source your products.
If i were a business owner, i WOULD make/sell a product that ultimately would make a profit. with that being said, i think i WOULD have to sell even the wood brackets. If only for a brief time period. someone will buy them. SIDE note: im in the process of building a container cabin and would very much appreciate some assistance with ventilation. i looked at a website that you recommended and emailed them with some concerns im having...its been a few weeks and no response. is it possible that i can speak to someone on your team for the information im seeking?
steel vs wood #1 reason for wood Thermal seepage. Wood will transfer less heat or cold through the walls. even if both are insulated the steel will transfer more than the wood does. in a container already made of metal wood will be the better choice for temperature maintenance. in the case of berried containers where the ground is keeping the container at a even temp Metal framing would be better for moisture reasons.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Above ground you have either a slab or footings to mount on usually with drain tile to further protect against standing water against the base of the unit when berried underground you get the same issues as a basement even a temporary failure can introduce water into the unit Metal studs would be superior in that event. The thermal leeching as I've said before is less of a problem because underground creates a stable average temperature.
I have been looking for some of your brackets and they are unavailable. Even ones from other videos that are for the exterior etc are unavailable. I also checked your website. Will anything be back in stock?
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks for the response I will keep an eye out. Awesome videos, I would love to see more with the external brackets. It looks like there are many possibilities with them. Like potentially putting two containers next to each other and having a nice upstairs storage area possibly even a small living space. Merry Christmas.
Given what I have read and seen so far in many videos I will never put wood studs on the inside of a metal shipping container. Metal studs and Spray Foam are the only way to go to prevent condensation! Wood studs can be used but you're going to waste so much interior space.
Yes. Should insulate everywhere on the planet. I noticed the little bugs in Dominican when I was there this winter. Wouldn't be good with Batt insulation. I would use closed cell spray foam if available.
![[ENGSUB] UNPRODUCTIVE DAY ใช้ชีวิต (เปื่อยๆ) ด้วยกัน 1 วัน! | OUROAD CLOSEFRiEND SS2 EP.9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pyYKZ3kra9w/mqdefault.jpg)
Here they are! Check out the installation video: th-cam.com/video/kEo9z4HA3D8/w-d-xo.html
Another insightful video. Really appreciate all your efforts in this industry. Cheers!
I love the fact that you keep pursuing innovation.
ADHD at its finest
I like the wood option for interior framing. I live in Northern Ontario and stick framed the interior of my container Bunkie with pressure treated lumber and 2” of closed cell, spray foam insulation. I feel it’s perfectly fine. This product would have made my install much easier, especially when working alone.
Thx for your continued support in developing products. Much appreciated!
Great Channel, always learn something new.
Yes sell the wood options for utility/work shops - temperate climates.
But we get your point about close cell insulation with steel being the better option.
Excellent 👌👌
Just say you only recommend use of those brackets in warm climates! 😁👍👍🇺🇸
I think the creativity of your team, increasing efficiency and reducing installation stress, is noble and awesome! It's best to avoid the wood on the inside as it just takes too much space away--every inch matters. Your Modular Strut System is far better, especially when combined with the closed cell foam. That being said, since there's such an aversion to metal framing in North America, probably would be good to re-design your brackets so the studs would work sideways (parallel to the wall) and thus have a few inches more on the interior and allow for wood framing~sort of compromise.
This is my favorite video of you so far!!! Was nice to see how much thought you are putting into everything. Impressive
I have learned so much from your videos, I wish to thank you for your knowledge. I live in Northern Indiana, USA. I also believe people from Canada are wonderful people. Sometime next year I plan on framing the inside of my 20 box.
Thanks for watching. I enjoy transferring my knowledge and glad ya learned something
I like the wood option and would be interested in purchasing it. There are those of us that just use containers for storage and aren't necessarily worried about condensation. Steel studs aren't as readily available as dimensional lumber in my area. The wood stud brackets would make an easy job of framing up the inside of a container for storage.
I didn't even think about the WSB's purpose for shelving, tools cribs, etc. 🤦🤦 THANK YOU for bringing up the obvious! This alone is a reason for the product I can stand behind. I have literally had a few hundred of them in stock for 6 months and just tucked them under a shelf..
Just for storage?
No framing or insulation needed!
EXACTLY!
@@TheContainerGuyTV I would love to have some of the WSBs for framing up a work bench on one side of a container that I use for storage and a work area.
I'm interested in the timber brackets for external use. I'd then roof and insulate on the outside so that the steel of the container doesn't heat up so much in our sun. Also an easier way to cover joints in multiple containers.
Another great and informative video.. I would keep the wood option.. I live in Texas and I have yet to have an issue with condensation.. I want to panel part of my container to allow me to put up shelves.. steel would be cost prohibitive.. I only use it as a store so full paneling or steel studs aren't required..
I also hear 1 5/8" steel studs are non-existent in Texas. Good feedback. This is what I was looking for.
100% agree with you for steel ... we are framing for such a small area why not just spend a little more to never have to worry about mold
super excited about the exterior brackets can't wait to see you insulate them
This insulation video keeps getting pushed back because of weather and other factors (next 3 weeks videos are going to be awesome). My apologies for the delay. Let me know any ideas on the insulation before we shoot it. I'll be asking an expert their opinion.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I'm very interested in the exterior insulation as I think preventing the heat or cold from getting to the can in the first place is the best way to solve a lot of problems. I'm just wondering how to insulate the underside of the container? I ordered a container for a cabin cluster and don't have the ability to raise it up to spray foam on the bottom side--so getting a continuous wrap-around exterior insulation is my concern, hopefully without removing the floor.
Keep making them please I'm a Texas guy in the dessert and they can definitely be of use!
Got 200 in stock if you wanna try them out and give feedback
These have to be one of the best solutions for limiting thermal bridging in containers that I’ve seen. Keep up the good work. Maybe consider a thin layer of polyethylene foam insulation (roll) between the container and the clamp to further reduce the bridging effect?
100%. I think that should be up to the customer depending on their level of OCD / how many F's they give
Thank you
Howdy brother. I wanted to give some feedback to you about the systems you are describing.
Closed cell spray foam acts as a vapor barrier for the interior of a project at much less than 2". I know that the code doesn't see it that way, but they are doing some voodoo calculations and have various reasons that don't apply to containerized construction. Mostly that containers are air tight. No other structure has a continuous sheathing with 0 breathing. Condensation from hot/cold differential comes from the moisture in the air. What you might consider is using eggshell paint in those types of extreme environments. It'll assist with the "vapor barrier" you are looking for. 2" of closed cell and any paint type over flat will be a fool proof system.
The larger issue with such an extreme weather change is the flexing of the container due to the metal shrinking and expanding. There is no way around this unless you insulate the entire exterior. Not a good idea. If you want to talk code- your roof structure doesn't pass the US IBC for deflection. The IBC isn't really made for use-case buildings and unique systems.
Your brackets don't really make alot of sense if you aren't using them to structurally support something. A 2x4 ceiling, or even the metal studs you have, don't have any weight on them. Screws would hold them together. I do think it makes the framing straighter, but unless you are building a high-end home I don't get it.
I like the brackets outside. I would be weary of being able to waterproof the connection. This is why most everyone builds a ledger.
Cheers!
Hi Sean. Thank you very much for your insightful comments and opinions. Keep them coming in future videos. I'm learning with you guys as we try new things
I like the wood stud clips for exterior use. I recommend that you sell them with a disclaimer stating that you do not recommend their use in interior spaces that are intended to be conditioned or occupied.
These clips would be useful for spanning the gap between containers in parallel. I can see them being used in that application to create a loft or mezzanine in a two container high building with a roof on top. Even here in Northern California, I would not use wooden studs inside a shipping container. We do have a wet season here that can last up to 5 months. For a storage shed made out of a shipping container, allthread makes far more sense than wooden studs as anchorage points for shelving.
Proper rot resistant studs are not inexpensive. Better to go with steel.
I'd love to see you expand your products to include the WSB's. While using wood to frame inside containers has some negative elements, there are also times it would make it more convenient for people who are used to framing in wood. A LOT of people are very unfamiliar with steel studs.
I'd be interested in a product similar that would allow me to attach joists to the lower portion of the container so I could help tie in the structural elements of the composite deck I am going to put around the side and closed end wall of my 20ft container work shop/shed to give me an outside work area for some projects.
Man.. that is an awesome ideal. I'll build it and call them Stealth Guy Deck Brackets 😂. Sound good?
The purpose of posting this video is to get your feedback on the WSB. Yes or No? Why?
Could I use the WSB to attach a lean to roof to the outside of the container?
@@samboom9262 you should use the Exterior Studding Brackets or Upper Decker Brackets
Yes, please sell the wood fram options! We are in Texas and need these!!
Thanks and blessings ❤
I'm gonna set up shop in Texas one day. Love it
That would be great, somewhere around Central Texas. I would certainly purchase from you. A lot of people are using shipping containers in this area. Your videos have been very informative.
@@TheContainerGuyTV awesomeness! You give a shout, your welcome for supper anytime!
Blessings
I would sale those wood brackets as some ppl still like the wood look or are just used to framing with wood. I think it would be an investment and great add o. To you line up of great products.
Thanks Randy!
Please make the brackets available for the wood studs. Your doing a great job, keep the transformations coming.
Thank you Marty. Anything you need me to elaborate on? Should I frame the roof of one?
3m is a good choice for adhesive; recommend the foam extreme tape will hold far beyond it's rated strength given additional time to set/bond at normal temps. As the thin foam compresses, it keeps the adhesive against the surfaces despite surface irregularities. I use little one inch squares of the stuff building custom electronics and that much could hold two pieces of aluminum together requiring about 70 pounds to break.
Love what you guys are doing and I think you should make the wood stud option for guys like me in Az
Yes, wood inside the steel envelope away from bugs is probably better in AZ.
What I notice is houses look extremely different across the planet yet container homes are all the same. Not right
1. Yay to the wood stud brackets, for all the reasons already outlined by other commenters, from shelving to exterior use, maybe put some warnings on the page against internal wood framing for human use.
2. Modify the guide brackets, they seem useful for lining up the steel studs, but as you said, puncturing the envelope is a bad idea, so I'd suggest focusing it on easy _temporary_ install and then removal after the stud is fixed to the corner casting. Whether it's glued or held with magnets is something that might be considered.
3. Big nay to the jumpy subtitles at the beginning, pretty annoying! Keep those to #shorts and tiktok-like platforms where you have to punch through noise.
Hey bro, I think you're a good path.
I use vhs tape in my trade for over 2 decades. I'm in the 007 cladding division which involves all sorts of metal cladding. We use vhs to marry metal corners on high rises, so I think it will be fine inside a shipping container that has 0 wind loads and also is held rigid once it is insulated and then skinned with rock or whatever the finish may be. Basically, stabilizing all sub-girts in place. We do one extra step which I can go into further detail if you'd like.
Keep them wheels spinning, yall are amazing.
Thanks Tony. Your comments are always appreciated
@TheContainerGuyTV hey man, its hard to motivate and impress me. You sir at a young age are doing just that. Inspiring me to start my own container to help veterans. On the side of course till. God willing, it takes off.
@@tonybillmahoney7462 You got this!
Any chance you could do a video specific to containers in subtropical climates? Mine is 40 feet and I want to split it between workshop and craft room. I’m thinking a slide out work table for when the weather is gorgeous and lots of windows in the craft side.
I am wanting to do a video on Climate Zones vs Container Homes. It's a huge undertaking. Requires a bunch of research & time on my end and difficult to make it into clear, concise, entertaining video content.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I think you could partner with an architect who holds the same views as you. Architects already know how to make a container appropriate for various climates--responding to climate conditions is a major part of an architect's education (one clients rarely want to use!) Perhaps @liveinacontainer6602 would be interested?
I learned a valuable bit of knowledge from this video and of course that raises questions.
How can the consumer easily identify the low-spec angle iron container box from the 60 mm tube container box?
In the video at 1:18 and 1:23 you show roof profiles of the two styles, are those profiles accurate?
Is there a way to differentiate between the two styles from ground level?
Thank you.
Give this video a watch for outside views:
th-cam.com/video/Y5oEXhtmLEQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nSbmEWVhfyWIJtQ-
WSB - Yes. Why - easier to work with & customize, and common tools. Also ability make your own wood studs, depend where you live.
Didn't think about making your own. The ultimate DIY project! I guess a lot of people have sawmills.
In the first part of the video regarding any use of double sided tapes......here's how I use it in my applications..... first I clean both surfaces with alcohol, preferably 90 %.....medical grade 99 % not required, I mark where the bracket is to be applied.......then I apply a small patch of double sided tape, about 1/4 of the surface area...... then I apply outdoor construction adhesive, " Locktite PL3 X" is my fav....so as only to cover the area not covered with the double sided tape,,, and I lightly spread it, removing any excess so as to prevent the adhesive from migrating over the double sided tape area when pushed down into place, it doesn't take much ! .....I also apply a very thin dab on the other mating surface to insure both contact areas for the construction adhesive are covered and mate well with no voids...the double sided tape holds the bracket in place until the construction adhesive setups up...... the next day its solid !
So recapping the double sided tape is used only on 25 % of the bracket and the rest of the area is construction adhesive......ALSO where ever the double sided tape sticks to, do not put construction adhesive there either......its very simple ... I hoped I explained it so it makes sense......but it works well............
Great explaination. Understood. One for tacking, one for long term hold. Makes perfect sense.
Thank you for this video. I'm considering my first container and had not thought through the possibility (probability) of mold. A big deal for me as I am allergic!
I blind screwed the timber on the outside. Giving you external insulation no probs with mould. Then tin on the timber.
Love your videos! I just had a 40’ one trip delivered and thinking of buying a second one to join together. Had a thought that Loctite Hysol EA 9460 structural epoxy would be a good test for those brackets. We use it to glue airplanes together.
That would 100% work. After William finished up the framing on that mod, he figured they didn't need to be fastened at all because they served their purpose of defining the plane away from the wall. Is that stuff expensive or take time to mix? Possible to get tiny tubes of it? 1 part or 2 component?
Keep making them that gives you more styles to make your can look like. You can stucco them use red ceder and so on.
Hey would you recommend using treated wood studs for inside container framing?! 😁👍👍🇺🇸
Composite studs or those recycled plastic / rubber ones would be better. I don't think you're supposed to breathe the off-gas from treated studs.
I would like to see you keep the outside wood brackets because the cost of metal studs is crazy expensive in my area and being just a homeowner I dont get that bulk discount.
You should sell them as an option. Buyer Be-where! This will give options for those "situations " where steel might not be available. Understanding that it may lead to moisture / mold issues. Options are what people love though. On the order form make a section that they must acknowledge you made them aware in the video's and literature your warned them. Still options!
Love the idea of the 60 mm brackets for wood outside. I do think steel on the inside is a safer mold free design. Question. Are there products that a DYI'r can get to spray foam their own interior?
Let me know. Thanks, Keep up the good work. Doug
D. C. Smithing
You can buy the DIY spray foam kits but they are brutal. You need the heated reactor pumps for the chemical reaction between part A and part B work properly.
have you seen the steel strut connector parts with inset magnets? that might work better than tape.
Definitely would buy your wood brackets for the interior! When can I buy them?
2-3 weeks. Emails parts@thecontainerguy.ca
Yes please do. I cant get your products here in Australia, so I am going to have to make my own kind of brackets for my internal wood framing, which i was planning to do, but not as nice as yours. I love your whole framing system! I will also be spray insulating 2" on walls, 3" on ceilings. I would love some help with the best way to install window frames for double glazed windows.
I do prefer your steel stud option as I lOVE working with steel! But.... if i dont use wooden struts, how do i screw the plywood wall cladding I have chosen, to a steel frame structure?
the end bracket with the vhb tape would be a ton stronger if you made its 3" or 4" tall instead of 1". Then use a strip at the top edge and the bottom edge.
I agree, it's all about surface area with that stuff.
I like the wood brackets for the outside of the container. Especially when you talk about creating a deck between two containers. I think you should sell them for that purpose at least
VHD tape takes several hours to set, heat will make it let loose, time makes it stick even better. Honestly, I'd prefer to quick epoxy them to container and hold in place with a magnet if possible. I agree with you, I don't feel the envelope should be punctured unless for windows, doors, exhaust or utilities. A bare minimum of perforations of envelope is best, less chances for moisture to find it's way inside.
I work with both metal and wood, I think you should supply both options. Sure metal is straighter, quicker, easier, lighter & subjectively stronger, but wood is still preferred for some things.
Excellent advice. Thank you
I think it would be beneficial to continue to engineer and adapt the wood framing method from the point of view of the tiny home DIY builder, wood framing on the outside of the container doesn’t compromise interior room. Thanks for your ingenuity and engineering expertise.
I think you should offer the wood brackets just put a warning sheet inside the box as well as a check box when ordering telling the risks........that relieves you of liability but still gives the customer the option if they so choose
People can make their own decisions I think. Not sure if they are that evil that a disclaimer is needed. Some good uses for them actually in the comments already
thank you so much for your videos!
Any idea what the wood bracket would cost if you do decide to sell them?
What are the dimensions of the steel stud brackets? In your spray foam video a while back you said that, for a home, you’d want at least 3 inches of foam and mentioned using a deeper stud to achieve that. (You were using a 2 1/2 stud and you said that we would need to go to a 3 5/8 stud to achieve the 3 inch foam barrier) I’d like to know if your current iteration of steel stud bracket allows for that 3 inch foam barrier and the 3 5/8 stud. Thank you so much for all the great content! It’s extremely helpful.
The existing system with 1 5/8" steel studs would allow for 2.5" of foam on the inside corrugations and up to 4" on the outside corrugations. An average of 3" of foam with the SSB framing kit by alternating between 2.5" and 3.5" of foam works great.
The 3" is the advice of my insulation contractor. I honestly think 2" on the walls and 3" in the ceiling is enough.
My experience tells me that the floor insulation is the area most overlooked by myself and others. I would spray foam the underside 2" plus put 2" of rigid foam on top of the container floor then subfloor/finish on top of that.
Thanks for the helpful information!
An average of 3” on the walls and ceilings should be just fine.
However, in regard to running a 4” drain pipe through the wall I may need to get crafty and extend the brackets away from the steel tubing by another inch or two in the bathrooms in order to have enough room to properly insulate my plumbing. Ideally, I’d love for there to be at least an inch of foam between the pipes and the wall of the container. Thermal bridging straight into my plumbing would undoubtedly end in disaster.
I also completely agree with the underside being overlooked. Spray foaming the underside while also adding 2” of rigid foam on top of the interior floor space would provide 25+ r value and a very solid base.
@@alecknopf we're building a bathroom right now and decided on a 2x6 wood pony wall 48" high for the plumbing to run in. This will be against the steel studs.
I’m in central Florida so it’s very hot and humid in the summer time. Would a mini split ac be enough ventilation and dehumidification without other vents be enough to avoid mold? Trying to avoid any unnecessary wholes. I’m doing steel studs with closed cell insulation. Thanks
You say that you would not use wood for framing. I just bought a container to build a tiny home. The container will have spray foam as insulations. Is wood ok for framing if using a spray foam?
Great... a little late and once the you guys stopped responding to emails I was left with the previous crappy instruction video. Now that it's already assembled and spray foamed I see this video telling me I did it wrong.
If you spray foamed it and your interior wall covering isn't falling off, you did a good job.
I have been framing cans for 12 years before these. Are they "wrong"? No, just getting better every time with experience.
I'm sorry you feel our video is crappy.
@TheContainerGuyTV why do the corner casting's flat bottom surface sit below the plane created by the ceiling stud?
@@RetreatHacker to allow for 2" of foam
@TheContainerGuyTV that's not what I'm talking about. I'll send a photo.
I want to build a small warehouse out of 2 40ft containers. I don't want them wield together. I would like a 10 foot wide pad in the middle of them, and I don't want a lot of the container cut away on the inside. I just wanted to know if wielding 2 containers together would cost more than not wielding them together?
It will be cheaper to use lumber to span 10ft across each container and cover that with a roof rather than weld 2 containers together and cut out the walls given all the structural reinforcement required. Did I understand your question right?
Yes because I don't want to cut out the sides of each container thanks for your help
@@marycowan4578 good luck with you project. Reply with any questions and I'm here to help.
Love your videos. What kind of metal components and fasteners do I need to purchase to attach to the metal studs?
Hey Channing, Greeting from Australia. how about making a really sturdy recycled plastic internal version of this bracket. this would be lighter, it would be supported by the spray foam, and no thermal bridging :)
I just bought a 40’ container. I ordered the 45 vents with screen. Now I would like to add a 12’ add on to store my tractor and splitter.
How do I bolt the 4x4 on top of the container without going through the roof with the bolts so I can start the add on to be 12x40 ? Would greatly appreciate your advice
Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/VpOq3Avxpic/w-d-xo.html
Why not use a short term applied adhesive to the brackets and then tac weld them. That seems like a quick process that will drastically increase rigidity combined with the foam features.
My opinion is that the bracket with the bend in it should probably be flat and on the vertical section with the tape running vertical as well.
beautifull work
If you sell the brackets, won't that be a tacit approval of the use?
One commenter mentioned using them to build shelving or storage solutions in their container. I have seen some crazy contraptions over the years. These brackets would significantly improve the process and not poke any holes through the walls.
I'm interested
I need those stud brackets for building a partition wall out of wood that I use for storage. Do you sell them still?
If they made a container that would slide into a larger one you could spray foam the smaller and slide into the larger.
As it stands so much double work with conversion of container and sometimes triple work if you cover the outside
2x4 framing is so cheap and simple you could frame a 8 x40 in the time you would grind a door opening and weld structural steel to hold the panels when they flex.
SIps panels are a beautiful option but the are made with particle board and foam which is subject to rot and fire and still needs interior and exterior finish.
There is clearly a way to make all in one panels with the flexibility of interior and exterior finish but it may be that infrastructure and shipping and the scale to be profitable may just be to big an issue to achieve .
It would require a crowd funding project on the scale that we haven’t seen.
Good luck and keep innovating.
Also don’t waste your time on patents just develop the product and be first to market. Tie it with your channel and run as hard and fast as you can.
keep going!
Its new im experiencing the food ❤
Would you be willing to give on-site training to those looking to break into the industry?
We do for our dealers.
you can use pressure treated wood to prevent wood mold.
Yes make and sell the wood stud bracket
👍 what application would you use it for?
I would use it for framing inside a container with the appropriate amount of spray insulation and venting to control moisture @@TheContainerGuyTV
I had a question, when you spray foam the inside do you foam over the vent covers along the top. The vents with the little covers on the outside over the like 8 holes for the vent. Thanks!
Yes. Blast over them. The only ventilation you want afterward foam is windows, an ERV or HRV, and whatever appliances require.
What about useing teated lumber for walls and celling?
What about usin JB Weld to stick those up there?
Is it cost effective? Are they expensive?
Don't eliminate anything... cause you don't use it ; some crazy guy like me may say it is perfect for the application needed.
The big box stores are cutting back and not supplying the average install since the pandemic.
As you know, not all sc creations are the same... make more and supply dreams.
Great stuff 👍 what would you use them for?
I'm interested, I have two 40ft brand new containers I'm looking to convert into an airbnb liveable units. Would love to work with you on this project, and source your products.
Cleaning the area with alcohol helps bonding also..
Yeah. I definitely expected it to go better than it did and it was genuinely my first try 🤣. Rather be real vs scripted and fool people.
Hola. Como consigo los soportes o los anclajes? Gracias. Espero su respuesta.
www.containermodificationworld.com
What about PVC studs? Essentially they are just firing strips in this application anyway.
Yeah 100%. Anything non-porous is better than wood.
If i were a business owner, i WOULD make/sell a product that ultimately would make a profit. with that being said, i think i WOULD have to sell even the wood brackets. If only for a brief time period. someone will buy them. SIDE note: im in the process of building a container cabin and would very much appreciate some assistance with ventilation. i looked at a website that you recommended and emailed them with some concerns im having...its been a few weeks and no response. is it possible that i can speak to someone on your team for the information im seeking?
👍❤️
steel vs wood #1 reason for wood Thermal seepage. Wood will transfer less heat or cold through the walls. even if both are insulated the steel will transfer more than the wood does. in a container already made of metal wood will be the better choice for temperature maintenance. in the case of berried containers where the ground is keeping the container at a even temp Metal framing would be better for moisture reasons.
No moisture considerations above ground?
@@TheContainerGuyTV Above ground you have either a slab or footings to mount on usually with drain tile to further protect against standing water against the base of the unit when berried underground you get the same issues as a basement even a temporary failure can introduce water into the unit Metal studs would be superior in that event. The thermal leeching as I've said before is less of a problem because underground creates a stable average temperature.
I have been looking for some of your brackets and they are unavailable. Even ones from other videos that are for the exterior etc are unavailable. I also checked your website. Will anything be back in stock?
Yes. After Christmas when we are back at work. Or check www.containermodificationworld.com
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks for the response I will keep an eye out. Awesome videos, I would love to see more with the external brackets. It looks like there are many possibilities with them. Like potentially putting two containers next to each other and having a nice upstairs storage area possibly even a small living space. Merry Christmas.
I don’t using spray foam because it not equal as the ivig
Are your product certified for use in CA, USA. ?
They're often stamped by engineers as a part of full builds. Not sure what certification body they would even pertain to.
The vhb tape requires a few days to become fully adhered but once the tape does it's thing it's hurricane proof for street signs during Katrina.
You are suggesting using this as a joist hanger but it has no support on bottom of joist
Only hanging temporarily. It's a top-down framing method.
I think it's better to have more options
Keep it just for the exterior.
Kind of hard to control how people use it now. Would be cool to use them to build an awning
😊😊😊😊
Use JB weld
I got a fir forest to cut from. ✂️😅
I get it im
It's all money costing a small fortune..you want a cheap simply home.not costing too much.
Keep it steel. No wood
111
It's a pointless waste of money to frame inside a container. You're building a house inside a house. Waste of money.
talk a bit less and show more
Given what I have read and seen so far in many videos I will never put wood studs on the inside of a metal shipping container. Metal studs and Spray Foam are the only way to go to prevent condensation! Wood studs can be used but you're going to waste so much interior space.
for the dominican republic (caribean) should i use insulation or not ?????????? @thecontainerguytv
Yes. Should insulate everywhere on the planet. I noticed the little bugs in Dominican when I was there this winter. Wouldn't be good with Batt insulation. I would use closed cell spray foam if available.
THanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@TheContainerGuyTV