I love your videos. I was wondering about that Canadian guy preaching about never using wood inside a container, you just cleared that up for me. Thanks
Very informative video and very detailed. Looks like the way to go for a 40ft high cube in the hot Australian dry heat. Gotta laugh about the crown moulding, crystal chandelier and the she-shed comments! Sadly, plywood is crazy expensive in Australia these days but there are reject grade sheets available which is good enough.
I use Sika as well, but the 2" version, and I too face the foil side to the exterior here in AZ. I also did some testing and Sunny side testing showed that the Foil out was around 4 degrees f cooler than the white side... Since I live in the Sonoran desert, heat (foil side out) protection outweighs the cold (white side out) protection for me. Since Taj-Ma-Haul is a Toy Hauler, what I did to break the thermal bridging was to router out the studs from the insulation so that the insulation was continuous across the wall. So 2" of insulation everywhere but the studs and then it is 1". my 9k mini-split consumes between 600-900 watts/hr on a 110f day, 150-250 watts/hr when it's 90f and below.
That’s a great idea.!I’ve been meaning to do a video on air conditioning install and wiring but I’m just swamped with orders and short handed… I’ll get one out soon.
False. I have containers using this method located in “The Everglades” of Florida… arguably one of the most mold friendly areas of the world and if you properly seal the panels and wood as in this video, there is no more moisture accumulation than in a shed, barn, car, house, etc.. thus nothing for mold to thrive in. In addition, metal studs create a thermal bridge and will cause moisture, mold and rust. That’s right… rust… I will do a video of a 20 year old container soon to prove it.
Watch this vid… I swear by this product… grind off the rust and slap this on and it will not leak. th-cam.com/video/KGXkAP0cc2M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mUzaMIsADcx9-aTe
Great question. When I do the air conditioning install I cut a hole next to the air handler of the mini split and run all the electrical and plumbing through that hole. However, if you do any plumbing for toilets or anything that’s “trapped” like a sink, etc.. it’s easier to cut a hole down below the “septic” line and run everything thru that hole. Then I just run conduit and plumbing exposed along the walls… I’ll do a vid soon but I’m short handed and swamped with orders at the moment.
Do you know if orientation of the container affects heating/cooling efficiency? For instance, if you had the long side facing the south sun versus the short end? (I'm located in zone 7a btw)
@@moonymannnn Do you have a particular recommendation for zone 7a? It gets pretty hot & humid here during the summers and fairly cold during the winters. I'd need to maintain an average temperature of around 70 degrees year round, but given my zone, do you think I should prioritize solar gain as much as possible?
@@MarcsGuides I don’t have a lot of experience with cold weather builds as 99% of my builds are for south Texas and South Florida… But I see that in zone 7a you should be okay with my method. For maximum efficiency you could try: -Painting the box White -Orientation under a shade tree. -Using a “shade sail/ sun shade”.
Hi thank you for this video. Can you tell me how thick the foam board insulation is you get? I see it comes in 1 inch, 1.5inch, etc. Which is optimal? Thank you
I'm looking for a material list as well so I can get accurate pricing locally. For a 20' standard height container, for just the lumber, I'm coming up with: 25 - 1x3, 6 - 2x3, 19 - 11/32 plywood. He said he used 22 of the foam insulation boards (I guess the extra is the strips he puts in the corrugated ribs). My issues is I can't find anywhere locally that has the 3/4" foam insulation boards. - Edit...I forgot to calculate for the doors... updated count.
You can install all this using what ever dimensions you want. Just simply measure and cut as you see fit. The “ribs” are 1x3’s and the “beams” are 2x3’s.
@@REVNUMANEWBERN yes… or you can use one thicker panel if you can find them at Home Depot… it’s just easier to double up than to source a thicker panel for me. Your situation may be different. The Home Depot often runs out of this product so you may have to improvise.
Correct, in a "hot" climate the foil side goes out, and in a "cold" climate the foil side goes in! 😁👍👍🇺🇸
What if you are hot in summer cold in winter? Utah
I love your videos. I was wondering about that Canadian guy preaching about never using wood inside a container, you just cleared that up for me. Thanks
Very informative video and very detailed. Looks like the way to go for a 40ft high cube in the hot Australian dry heat. Gotta laugh about the crown moulding, crystal chandelier and the she-shed comments! Sadly, plywood is crazy expensive in Australia these days but there are reject grade sheets available which is good enough.
This is a very informative video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I use Sika as well, but the 2" version, and I too face the foil side to the exterior here in AZ. I also did some testing and Sunny side testing showed that the Foil out was around 4 degrees f cooler than the white side... Since I live in the Sonoran desert, heat (foil side out) protection outweighs the cold (white side out) protection for me.
Since Taj-Ma-Haul is a Toy Hauler, what I did to break the thermal bridging was to router out the studs from the insulation so that the insulation was continuous across the wall. So 2" of insulation everywhere but the studs and then it is 1".
my 9k mini-split consumes between 600-900 watts/hr on a 110f day, 150-250 watts/hr when it's 90f and below.
Thank you for this video I’m trying to do my shed.
Could you possibly do a future video of you running your electrical or what would be the best method to do so ?
That’s a great idea.!I’ve been meaning to do a video on air conditioning install and wiring but I’m just swamped with orders and short handed… I’ll get one out soon.
$20K For a $3500 20' container that you added some wood and insulation to? That's a pretty good markup.
Great info how to insulating
Condensation will cause mold using these construction techniques in a metal shelter. You need metal studs and spray foam to eliminate the problem.
False. I have containers using this method located in “The Everglades” of Florida… arguably one of the most mold friendly areas of the world and if you properly seal the panels and wood as in this video, there is no more moisture accumulation than in a shed, barn, car, house, etc.. thus nothing for mold to thrive in. In addition, metal studs create a thermal bridge and will cause moisture, mold and rust. That’s right… rust… I will do a video of a 20 year old container soon to prove it.
The thermal bridge is key! If not wood, have to be some kind of composite.
Today's Home Depot prices are about 33% more than those prices from 7 months ago.
@@luxbeltran and now this port worker union strike may make it go much higher. Ridiculous.
Short of welding whats a good sealent for the roof , ive got some leaks
Watch this vid… I swear by this product… grind off the rust and slap this on and it will not leak. th-cam.com/video/KGXkAP0cc2M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mUzaMIsADcx9-aTe
How would you run pex and electrical with this method? Outside the walls some how?
Great question. When I do the air conditioning install I cut a hole next to the air handler of the mini split and run all the electrical and plumbing through that hole. However, if you do any plumbing for toilets or anything that’s “trapped” like a sink, etc.. it’s easier to cut a hole down below the “septic” line and run everything thru that hole. Then I just run conduit and plumbing exposed along the walls… I’ll do a vid soon but I’m short handed and swamped with orders at the moment.
Do you know if orientation of the container affects heating/cooling efficiency? For instance, if you had the long side facing the south sun versus the short end? (I'm located in zone 7a btw)
Great question! Yes, orientation has a huge impact. Less direct solar exposure is better for keeping it cool.
@@moonymannnn Do you have a particular recommendation for zone 7a? It gets pretty hot & humid here during the summers and fairly cold during the winters. I'd need to maintain an average temperature of around 70 degrees year round, but given my zone, do you think I should prioritize solar gain as much as possible?
@@MarcsGuides I don’t have a lot of experience with cold weather builds as 99% of my builds are for south Texas and South Florida… But I see that in zone 7a you should be okay with my method. For maximum efficiency you could try:
-Painting the box White
-Orientation under a shade tree.
-Using a “shade sail/ sun shade”.
Hi thank you for this video. Can you tell me how thick the foam board insulation is you get? I see it comes in 1 inch, 1.5inch, etc. Which is optimal? Thank you
This example is with one 3/4” R factor 5.0 on the walls and two 3/4” R factor 5.0 panels on the ceiling.
I have a container and condensation is a problem , if I insulate it like this will it stop or do I have to add air?
@@howardmiller4241 where is it located?
How many sheets of insulation in your materials list. Is there a full material list?
22 3/4” sheets of the R-5 Sika
I'm looking for a material list as well so I can get accurate pricing locally. For a 20' standard height container, for just the lumber, I'm coming up with: 25 - 1x3, 6 - 2x3, 19 - 11/32 plywood. He said he used 22 of the foam insulation boards (I guess the extra is the strips he puts in the corrugated ribs). My issues is I can't find anywhere locally that has the 3/4" foam insulation boards. - Edit...I forgot to calculate for the doors... updated count.
What is the thickness of the insulation panel
3/4”
Just stick a tiny netting on the holes.
North Florida here, Suwannee Co. How many of those panels does it take for a 40 Ft High Cube?
@@REVNUMANEWBERN 26 insulation panels.
@@BoxKrafter Thank You !
57:54 Laud, Laud, RUNS.................
We need the dimensions and cut sizes. Please help us
You can install all this using what ever dimensions you want. Just simply measure and cut as you see fit. The “ribs” are 1x3’s and the “beams” are 2x3’s.
Are these 2x3s?
The wall studs are 1x3, the ceiling beams are 2x3
@@moonymannnn So you put 2 layers of the insulation board on the ceiling?
@@REVNUMANEWBERN yes… or you can use one thicker panel if you can find them at Home Depot… it’s just easier to double up than to source a thicker panel for me. Your situation may be different. The Home Depot often runs out of this product so you may have to improvise.
You talk too much, that voice goes through me.
@@body4choice bless your heart… you sound like a sweet little troll.
@@BoxKrafterLOL