Creality Ender 3 V2 - Speed up prints without sacrificing quality by identifying and changing...
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2020
- You need that print done fast! Or at least faster. In this video we'll look at how to identify where to focus your attention and then we'll adjust the settings for the best bang for the buck.
If you'd like to become a patron to help this channel grow and get involved with future video ideas, here is the link: / needitmakeit
In order to determine if there are any negatives to the adjustment, we need to throw in a few tests to compare apples to apples.
Our goals with any adjustments are to make sure to keep the quality of the 3D prints high and continually tweak the settings to optimize our setup. This will allow my to keep 3D printing prices down while also making sure the customer is happy with the final result.
These prints have been made on the Ender 3 V-2 a much nicer printer than my Anet A8 printer. I would recommend skipping the purchase of a lower model and go right to a printer like this to save yourself all of the trouble that I've had, as well as giving you the ability to print high-quality parts right out of the 'gates'.
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Please send me an email or comment if you have things you'd like to have tested, or if you have problems, maybe I can help to solve them with you. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Keep those E3V2 vids coming.
Hey thanks, I am working on one right now, should be ready very soon!
Any chance of you posting your Ender 3 V2 cura Profile?
love your ender 3v2 videos!! keep them coming!! Btw, cool FJ cruiser toy on the left. Justs getting into 3d printing on my 3v2 and your tips have helped me a lot. Just subscribed hoping for more of these videos! Thanks a lot!
Thank you Juan! I have a few more Ender 3 videos on the way right now, and about 1000 ideas for future videos.
You've picked a good starter printer, I made the mistake of starting with the Anet A8, there is no competition. This printer has great potential.
If there is anything specifically I can help you with, please don't hesitate to ask.
Do you print with ABS, or PLA?
Would you believe me if I told you that was my son's Cruiser?
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks!! I am currently printing with pla and PETG (Hatchbox,Overture and Geeetech) they are all working great. I just got some tpu filament from Sain Smart in the mail today, planning on trying it with my printer but honestly i'm a little scared of my prints failing due to its flexibility :) ps. jajaja I think i wouldn't believe you. If I was to go by one of those at the store I wouldn't hesitate to buy it for even a second:) In fact i've had a cruiser for over 4 years as my daily driver and couldn't be happier. (except with km/l) Loving the new videos btw
That is the printer I have, as my very first 3d printer purchase. Heard great things about moding of this 3d printer. I did a test 3d print of the doggy included on the micro sd card. 2nd print that Im doing currently is the Intuos Pro tablet holder with pen stand well.
Excellent technical, working 100%. Useful for PLA hard pieces. Thanks for share.
So incredibly useful, thank you.
Nice vid, thanks for sharing your experience with us
hello, great video !! right now in your opinion, which FDM printer would you recommend me? a medium-high range
thank you
Great idea. Is there a way in cura to make it automatically adjust based on print speed, i.e. PrintSpeed*1.5 ? (other than editing the creality_base.json file)
You speed is fast ( compared to my E3 V1 usual speed of 50) is that a V2 improvement?
Thanks for the video.
That looks so smooth!
Including the filament type and brand for your videos would be appreciated!
How much does changing the inner wall speed affect the strength of the finished product?
You can change the inner wall speed much faster and infill speed 3x faster, but outer wall has to be very slow, and for the starting point of layer height you can set to sharpest corner and smart hiding for better shape. :)
You know I've not really tried taking it to the limit, this is a really good idea. What I have noticed is that a much slower outer wall does help like you mention, that's a good tip as well.
Today for the first time I am printing with a 1mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, wall speed 57, infill speed 70, this is a lot of material, the extruder is spinning at high speed to keep up. My best record for the bowflex part I print was previously 7+ hours, this takes it to less than 4 hours along with stronger infill. I'm curious to know how the part will look compared to the 0.6mm nozzle I was using.
@@NeedItMakeIt I also going with 1 mm nozzle currently, it has best results so far after this settings, but make sure your model has no support necessary, 1 mm nozzle causing support problem because sticking with 1 mm makes it stronger bounds for the models.
Very nice quality vids, few do E3 V2 specific which is useful as I’ve got one. subscribed!
I've had plans to make 3d print videos for some time.... I was embarrased by my old printer. This printer on the other hand is pretty nice. It has a few minor problems, but overall it performs well. Thanks for the sub! I have 2 videos coming soon and 1 planned right afterward.
I don't use cure very often but handy to know thanks for sharing.
You just saved me over a day and a half on a print! Thank You. Liked and Subbed
Wow, that is a long print, glad it helped! I have lots more 3d printing related videos to come.
Been enjoying my v2 but the inc software was not cura? It was ulti. Slicer ? I may be misspelling it How can I get cura and learn that thank you your videos are very informative
Thank you very much for sharing. Could you share the link to the Cura file for these exact settings you made in this video?
What is the Brim distance from a model? It peeled very nicely
Sweet advice, I'm going to try this out.
I've printed as thick as 0.5mm with a 1mm nozzle now and that makes a big difference in the time, the parts are super strong with the 1mm nozzle, but the nozzle passing over already printed infill can cause some trouble and shift the build plate, so I'm still working out the bugs.
really nice and informative.. thx heaps I'm running a new E3V2. Have only added yellow springs and it prints really nicely at 45ms will push it upto 65ms now :) & turn down inner wall.
I agree, the springs are a problem, the adjustment knob on the front left seems to like to loosen off, the springs need to apply a little more force. Did you opt for the set with the anod. aluminum knobs? They look pretty snazzy. I run with 5 wall layers, the inner walls don't seem to affect much, but if someone only has 2 wall lines, a slower speed would help to reduce the infill from becoming visible in the outer walls. I've been running 80 for the infill with no problems using ABS, the outer wall I have at 35 inner at 55, those settings seem to make for some nice prints. I'd like to try the ABS juice soon for better adhesion.
Thank you for your video. I have bought this printer too and I am going to assemble it the next week but I have a question. The power supply is enough to print ABS, because it's only 350W ?
Did you have encountered a problem about the power ?
In your exemple, how long the bed to got 90°C ?
Thank you
No problem. I am happy with this printer power supply, it is better than the Anet A8 for sure. I would highly recommend an enclosure though for both safety (fumes) and for better quality prints and faster heating. I would say from cold it takes 10 minutes to heat up enough to start the print. The initial bed temp is 98, it drops to 93 from there and that's because the initial layer is critical for bed adhesion. My printer also has the Carb. glass and it is pretty good about heating up quick, it seems to retain heat well and heats quickly also. I have heard that the Carb. glass is only thin on the top of typ tempered glass, but I can't really be sure and it sounds a little gimmiky to me, the bond seems about as good as picture frame glass IMHO.
I hope that helps, I print only ABS so if you have any questions let me know, I'd be happy to help.
How did you fix the defects on the first print ?? I have the same problem.
I tried those settings but somehow the estimated printing time takes about 1/3 longer than with the Stock 0.2mm profile and seems to declare parts of the model as inner walls where the stock Profile doesn't show any inner walls(in the overview section of the "i" information symbol next to the estimated time)....
any suggestions to solve this?
Beautiful, thx! Did you shorten the pipe? It is too long by default, this can have a positive effect on retracts maybe. I cut 10cm.
I haven't, I've never heard of this solution. I was thinking about calibrating the stepper instead, but I've only had the printer for about 1 month and I'm still wrapping my head around some of the tweaks. Is that 10mm (3/8")?
Currently working on some bed-adhesion stuff, should have another quick video reviewing some progress on that this weekend.
when you set the print speed on Cura mine still comes up as 100 in the tune setting on the ender 3 v2. Does that mean my setting are not setting properly?
very good videos! love it! I also have an ender 3 v2...
Hey, thanks for the comment, I am working on a few more 3D print videos like these, one should be ready this weekend. I enjoy using this printer a lot more than my Anet, the quality is pretty good, and I think with a few tweaks could be even better along with faster printing time too.
What temps are you using to print ABS? Nice video, happy to subscribe to a fellow Canuck!!
I've used 235C for ABS pretty much exclusively and I print with 3dprintingcanada's brand of filament and have for years with good success. 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/abs/products/grey-1-75mm-abs-filament-1-kg . Recently I switched to try PETG and I am probably going to keep using it; there is no smell, so little warpage, bonding to glass uses just glue stick and it needs to be placed in the freezer to remove it. The only downside is that it is shiny, I like to take steel wool and remove the sheen... I prefer that look. Thanks for the sub!
Can you please share the full cura profile for ender 3 PLA please. Thank you.
Great Video! Could you make a video explaining all your Cura profile settings which gave you the nice printing result?
Absolutely I can, I have a few on the go at the moment, but I can certainly add it to the list.
@@NeedItMakeIt Take your time. I have notifications activated so I will not miss it. I am patiend :)
Great videos, well done. I only started 3d printing journey and I have the same printer. What glue do you use? I printed two things and both went wrong as filament did not stick to bed correctly.
Thank you. I print with ABS, however the first time printing with PLA on glass, I used a glue stick... that was a mistake, I could not get the print off of the plate without ruining it. If the part has little surface in contact with the plate, you'll probably be okay, if it has a lot, I can't suggest this method. I have problems with adhesion, however ABS and PLA are different animals, so I'd need to do some testing first to be able to respond accurately to your question.
@@NeedItMakeIt Hi, I' would also like to know how you get ABS to stick.. is that a regular glue stick (like for paper/craft)? PLA sticks fine if your bed is level and bed and nozzle temp ok (60/200) and I also always use a brim. But ABS always pops off mid print. Thanks.
@@michaelhudson7809 Awesome - thanks very much! I will try some glue stick (I make a lot of things that need to be durable and for outdoor use - so pushing the limit of PLA). What bed and nozzle temps do you use (other than the extreme ones you mention). Also, do you share your profiles at all? Many thanks again - really appreciated. Tim
The icon showing time estimation has been there for a while, at least since I started printing in may or june.
Did you adjust your temperature up for a higher speed?
Thank you, im waiting mine next week, coming from Anet a8
A great switch to make, one adjustment I had to make from my Anet A8 was to the Bowden tube, it takes some getting used to, but it will make for many nice prints.
@@NeedItMakeIt was a nightmare, change psu, change bearrings, sold the bed, change cables with silicone... For this what you think it s better tube capricorn XS or TL for PLA?
@@Diego-de9eu It was a frustrating printer for me as well. Good to struggle so you can appreciate things when they are good! I purchased the capricorn, I'll be installing it soon (once the printer is free). Please do yourself a favor and buy the best tubing with the highest temp rating you can. This material become poison when it melts, the better tubing is rated for a higher max temp. It is also supposed to contain material which reduces friction, and after using the cheap tubing I have a feeling that reducing the friction does play into getting better quality prints with better response from the movement of the extruder gear. I'll have some follow up videos in the next weeks about this as well. I'll also have one coming out in a couple of days about the tubing fittings you may want to check out.
@@NeedItMakeIt yes, anet a8 was a good school. What capricorn you have? Dark or light blue? I have Heard that they have small tollerance, so, most of filament give problem. I dont know what to think
@@Diego-de9eu The dark, I've tested it and my filament does run through smooth, the tube I have measures 1.92mm ID, 3.97 OD Slightly more space than the cheap tubing I bought. I'd also recommend a shorter tube, less tube should = less friction.
That's weird because my wall speed is set at 60mm/s and the inner wall is default to the wall speed so 60mm/s and the outer default is 30. I don't understand why your inner wall speed was only 30 something after changing wall speed to 72?
Great video BTW thanks
Hi nice video. What kind of glue are you using on the bed? Thanks
For ABS I am using Nano now, it prevents warpage completely, for PETG or PLA I use glue stick.
The incorporation of "Creawesome" is what makes your inner walls so much slower (50%) than your print speed. The base Cura FDM/FFF profile, and the Creality profiles prior to 4.1, have this set to the same as the base print speed by default. I suspect most others do as well, along with a 60mm/s base speed instead of 50mm/s.
That makes a lot of sense, why they would setup the base profile to be so terribly slow is beyond me. My old printer the Anet A8 could not handle much speed due to the terrible design of the frame, this Creality is so much better.
@@NeedItMakeIt Ultimaker just added Creawesome in full back with 4.1 due to its (supposed) popularity. I guess it's "good enough" for most, and it's not like they're going to devote too much time to fine tuning non-Ultimaker printer profiles (rather understandably).
Can't say I've ever really cared for Creawesome myself. After Ultimaker incorporated it I switched to a customised version of the default FFF/FDM profile to boost both speed and quality.
Do you plan to add a BLtouch? Thanks for the E3V2 specific videos!
I do, what I'd like to do is make some videos which run through the process with only the info needed so they'll be very short and sweet. I find some of the how-tos are too long and they are just people talking. I'm a detail guy, I like to see the stuff.
@@NeedItMakeIt There are a number of mechanical installation video available for the E3 v2 for bltouch. However, what I have found most frustrating is selecting functional firmware for the E3v2 w/ bltouch and then specifically how to find & save the z offset (creality's firmware ignored my z offset entirely) and then utilize its mesh bed in slicing (with specifics for where to put g-code additions). If you did a video(s) on this it would truly fill a niche and help a lot of us out.
@@Jasonwutuber Jyers is supposed to be good for this. I use it without a bltouch. It stores settings to the main board (instead of the SD card like the stock firmware does)
amazing!
On Cura 4.11 i noticed if you change print speed to 72 the inner wall speed is default to 72 as well. I guess they modified this in the newer version so we wont have to mess with it.
F
Great video will this work on the ender pro?
I’m a noob and only got this 2 days ago
Every print I have to manually set fan speed and bed heat and nozzle heat on the actual machine never seems to save it.
Also my mum has a Troxy printer and we both printed the exact same thing mine being a few cms smaller but takes 6 hours longer to print mine than what hers does?
I turn down the infill to like 5% and also turned combing to all and don’t shave much time off atal.
My first print a cobra Kai phone stand from cults 3D and it took 5 hours lol am I missing something?thanks man
I'd say that you need a different profile for Cura, if you print with PLA you can use this one, but you'll want to add the infill. As far as temp settings and fans, they'll come from Cura you can tweak them on the printer, but you shouldn't need to. drive.google.com/file/d/1tZl4NQtSxjQbYV4XQzumbF6tqZGiXoF8/view?usp=sharing. There are quite a few ways to speed up your prints, try changing the profile first and then we can take it from that point.
@@NeedItMakeIt thankyou very much I’ll look into it
creality says you shouldnt clean the stock bet with alcohol. and i never saw the need to use any crap on the bed, such as glue stick... do you use glue stick for pla and petg as well?
Yes, except I always use glass, always have, but I do have plans on testing other options. The glass requires the print speed to be slowed to prevent ringing because of the extra mass, so it is beneficial to print with sticky pad. They wear out and that's where glass is better. I suppose alcohol could be a solvent for that material, soap and water is probably just as good.
Do you print in an enclosure? If so, did u move ur PSU and electronics?` I would love a tutorial video on how u moved it etc. :) Keep up the Ender 3v2 vids! :)
Hi, I do print in an enclosure, however I switched from ABS to PETG specifically to avoid problems like overheating the electronics over time. I also didn't think that some of the plastic components of the printer would handle increased temps inside for extended periods of time especially if there were any forces being applied.
I am experimenting with PETG now and I am enjoying printing with it. It has its own set of quirks to handle, but that will come with experience and settling on one supplier that works for me.
I would prefer not to customize the printer too much because it is meant to do a job rather than consume my time and I like to keep it as stock as possible so replacement is simple.
subscribed. I have ender 3 v2 coming right next to my ender 5. I need super quality prints for limp prosthesis prints. thank you (Ps. I use 0,2 mm nozzle for some parts because every mm counts :( )
I'd love to see some pics of the work you do, very cool stuff. Do you have a preferred material to print with?
@@NeedItMakeIt It will be partly operational in a week or two and I will send you a link. I am trying to make a website at same time and share .STL. It will be available for free
@@3phasetinkerer Look forward to it!
What retraction settings do u usually use (distance and speed)?
For boden, I use 5mm, for direct, I use 1mm. Retraction speed of 45mm/s (I've never touched this setting)
This is awesome! I also just found out about a Cura plug-in for click on click off support placement from CHEP... holy cow it has shaved off HOURS by not placing absolutely insane supports automatically.
Mind linking this?
Check out Prusa Slicer 2.3, it now has paint on seams and supports. I've been experimenting with it over the last few days. I really want a variable density infill feature. Another cool one would be something that reproduces the structure inside of our bones, place the infill where it needs to be for the conditions we have.
@@NeedItMakeIt hmm... I wonder if there's a way to get a support topology optimization tool. It could be similar to bone density infill, or better.
Oh, seems like they hinted at it here.
th-cam.com/video/QLA92V_85_I/w-d-xo.html
@@RenegadeRukus I enjoyed that video, thank you. I'm sure there are people working on this knowing the constraints of 3D printers at the moment. In the future I expect that we will have access to a type of metal 3d printing at home with a sintering method which allows any shapes within the part to be produced regardless of their complexity. We'd need a method to remove the un-sintered material through some holes. Our current FDM printers would not have a very efficient path to follow and it might make more sense to just use what we have. I suppose resin printers would have limitless possibilities as well.
A very interesting subject, I would really enjoy testing some different structures for tension and compression to see how they'd perform, perhaps some that look like human bones.
Is this settings also applicable to Anet ET5 Pro?
Yes, these settings work for any FD printer type.
2:26 Noice
i wish i could get my v2 to print even close to that nice
I have two and both print very nice, you can too, it will be a matter of making sure the mechanicals are setup correctly and then you have all of the settings in the slicer to adjust, which can have a major impact.
@@NeedItMakeIt i figured out my problem. The plastic piece around the wires coming off of the hotplate had gotten sideways and pinched itself in the spring which made it impossible to level the bed.
For some reason, my prints on the Ender 3 V2 Cura estimate and actual printing are taking way longer than I would think they should. For instance, I have to scale a 3D Benchy down to about half scale and it still takes about an hour. And yes, my Cura settings are pretty much normal.
Cura dosent take acceleration speed in account
@@omtapkir8639 By acceleration speed do you mean mm/s? Right now my Cura estimate is pretty accurate to the actual print time. :(
Awesome vid man. I nailed down a beautiful print with ABS on my Ender 3 v2 but it takes forever. Just ridiculous lol. I’ll try your method and let you know.
Really, you're printing slow because of no cooling? If you haven't already tried it, buy the sample pack of the Nano bed adhesive from Visionminer, it works amazingly well, I've moved onto PETG from ABS, but it will help if you have problems with warpage. Could make for a cool test to see if I can crank up the cooling on ABS as well as print super fast.
Can you make for ender 3
Hello, I really liked your video, very straight to the point. It would be interesting if you could make this profile available to anyone who wants to test.
Thanks
Here is a link to the files if you'd like to try them out. I print with ABS and PETG, they can be easily adapted to any material. drive.google.com/file/d/1ld49Uw8gVbhItDMS0YO8g5zaXGgZ_Qoo/view?usp=sharing
@@NeedItMakeIt TKS !!!
@@NeedItMakeIt Great Video, I too was wondering if you'd share this profile and was happy to see this link, however, Google Drive says you've moved it to your trash and it's no longer available... Would you be so kind as to reshare it?
Do you have your Cura profiles posted somewhere?
I have them in google drive drive.google.com/file/d/1ld49Uw8gVbhItDMS0YO8g5zaXGgZ_Qoo/view?usp=sharing where would be a good place to keep these so they are available for anyone?
@@NeedItMakeIt Google Drive is perfect!
What caused that bump line on the print? i have the same problem on my printer and would like to know if anyone has a soloution.
Can you tell me which part of the video shows the bump? Thanks!
@@NeedItMakeIt at 4:50 on the side of the print, there is a vertical line of bumps. Mine are a little more of a straight line but i quess it's the same problem
@@michaelhudson7809 that would be cool thanks
Can you speed it up while printing?
Which brand of PLA are you using ?
These were printed with ABS, there is no brand on them... they are the 3D printing Canada "no name" brand product 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/petg/products/white-1-75mm-petg-filament-1-kg I only print a little with PLA, I print with PETG now because I can't have any brittleness in my prints.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks a Ton Bro!!
what's the use of using alcool isopropylique 99?
Cleaning the bed so that you have maximum adhesion.
It is really just one extra level of cleanliness, removing oils.
@@NeedItMakeIt oh ok
@@NeedItMakeIt By the way do you know anything about acetone finish?
please add your Cura Profile. Thanks
There is a seemingly endless array of "upgrades" for the Ender 3.
I might venture to say that most of these so-called "upgrades" are really unnecessary and they actually cause printing issues. Just my opinion.
My Ender 3 came "unrepaired" for cheap. After replacing the motherboard and installing the firmware, this thing makes very high quality parts. Sure, it is a bit slow but it prints without any "messing" with it. Your mileage may vary. At least that's what she said.😁
I just subscribed. Just got my ender 3 v2. Do you mind sharing your profile? I would really appreciate if you do.
can you share your profile and make it downloadable ?
Is this available on simplify 3D ?
I'd have to investigate it myself as I've not used it. I'd hope that for a paid software, it would be integrated. I see a handy feature for variable settings at a particular height, that would be very handy for prints that taper to a point.
forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=7086 Maybe this will help
2:21 nice
Share profile for PLA+ please!
I've never used PLA +, I can share a PLA profile, but I have only printed PLA about 4 times. I used to print ABS, now PETG mainly because my parts and mainly load bearing.
Almost skipped this video as I thought it was the same as the last one. Watch out for CURA 4.7. It has some bugs that can produce poor surface finishes.
You should be able to crank much faster than that. (of course part geometry and acceleration settings can prevent even insane speeds from becoming reality) but a 100 or 110 on inner walls and infill on that part should provide a much faster print. There are a few brands of ABS that don't like a fast speed/hi flow rates (still puzzling why that is) but they are the anomaly and not the norm. Appreciate the patriotic branding on the back.
Abs can differ between brands, because abs is a blend of materials, this blend can vary alot and that is why some brands behave differently than others. Some abs blends are better for 3D printing while others can almost be unprintable. Interestingly I found out that the high rate of shrinkage of abs is by design, since this material was developed for injection moulding of large parts like car bumpers and the high rate of shrinkage helps these parts release from the moulds...
I had been wondering just how far I could take the speed, that's very helpful information. My old Anet A8 really held me back from exploring speed changes, but this printer has so much more potential.
I have noticed quite a few differences in the properties of ABS, the most troublesome being the Silver ABS filament which absorbed moisture and produced a terrible final product. I would leave the silver in the heated cabinet for 1 full print before trying to print with it.
Thanks, the flag was a recent addition - Proud to be Canadian!
Absolutely, the print speed, the finish, the sheen, the imperfections with stringing and little blobs all seem to vary depending on the filament brand, and sometimes the colour. I do like that ABS shrinks and can be removed from the build plate, the dimensional accuracy is a problem and I would like to explore some other materials down the line to really dial it in.
I've be making the Bowflex bench parts for people and trying to keep the cost down, ABS seems to be the cheapest while also giving me a durable part, maybe there are better options out there now.
I've only experimented with PLA a little bit, in order to make parts for my metal lathe that would resist oil. I had a terrible time removing them from the build-plate even though they were very small. Glue-stick on a glass plate with PLA was not a good idea, I'd really need the flexible build-tak plate to do it right.
@@NeedItMakeIt with pla, I have been using hairspray on glass with excellent results, the part sticks nice and once cooled down, it releases on it's own. I do believe brand and type of hairspray also plays a role, so some experiments are required to find a suitable product. The other benefit from hairspray is that the texture on the bed that translates to the part is a lot nicer than that of glue stick...
@@HeimoVN Do you have a brand that you prefer? I wonder what the main ingredient is that gives a good bond? I will try this, I would like to transition a little more to PLA or PLA+, I have a feeling that the printer in a heated cabinet will not last as long as one with lower bed temps and nozzle temps over the long-term. PLAs bridging abilities would be nice to have on occasion too!
Wow I struggle with printing ABS without warpage. Your ABS prints look as good as PLA! What's the secret?
in order to print fast on E3 - change the motor on the bed from 34 to 48! and direct extruder!!!!!!!!!
Are you able to give us some info about how fast of printing you're referring to.
I don't understand how direct drive helps with faster printing, if anything the added mass should require a slow down.
@@NeedItMakeIt on all prusa type printers the speed limits by the bed weights ) so if the carriage is 500-550g it is ok for speed printing 100 mm - and if you can able so to the bed with the same veigh it is perfect)))) so in order to compensate the bed weight the motor with more torque is required)))) regarding the direct it is much better then you need retraction and if you print at higher speeds more than 80-40 so it will be much better than bolden)))) alos if you look at the video the speed is not 100 it is 40 or max 50)
@@mitofun6967 For the bed I have been experimenting with thinner and smaller glass to reduce the weight, the trick however is that the size and weight of the printing ontop of the bed with this type of printer also impacts the quality. 100mm/s might be possible with the right conditions. I'm still not sure about the quality at those speeds due to ghosting/ringing it would certainly make for an entertaining video series so I will add it to the list for this printer.
The current max speed I use for this printer is 78mm/s for infill that was using a 0.6mm nozzle size. Smaller nozzle may yield better results. Recently I have been printing PETG at 0.8mm nozzle with very good results, however the fine details are not as crisp and I may need to use linear advance to improve them.
why is there 2 vids on same topics listed?
I make short videos on one or two features at a time. They aren't the same video, each offer different solutions.
@@NeedItMakeIt "Creality Ender 3 V2 - Speed up prints without sacrificing quality by".... "identifying and changing..." vs "turning on this setting". great... now can you tell me why i wasted my time and not find a solution for problem i might have? god damn click bait.
@@NeedItMakeIt it's not a great feeling watching 11 minutes of videos and still not having an answer to questions i might have.
@@NeedItMakeIt no idea if you even used cura... maybe the punch line is to use 0.8 nozzle... i hate the titles...
@@sick000fight Great thanks!
thank you soooooo freaking mutch (L)
I'll have another within a day or two! My pleasure.
@@NeedItMakeIt awsome
2:48, none of these steps are necessary, especially on a part that large. You're using an Ender 3 V2 afterall. Glue sticks are a thing of the past with V2.
Hi, could you be a bit more specific? Printing ABS directly on glass with my typ. print settings is not successful, there is no adhesion. Are you perhaps referring to PLA?
My prints go wrong as filament does not stick properly...would you know why? It's 60c* heated, calibrated etc. I'm talking about PLA by the way. Any help would be appreciated.
@@superchannel6506 Make sure to clean the glass bed regularly. I use isopropanol to clean it before prints and layer adhesion is working perfectly with PLA without any addons.
Ahhhh toe thumbs!!!
Strong thumbs!
Note to self: he's printing with *ABS*
I also print with PLA and PETG, good results regardless.
@@NeedItMakeIt Oh, I'm a newbie printing only with ABS, so your video is perfect for me - hence the note to self.
Thanks for your videos 👍
@ Sounds good! I started looking at alternatives to ABS over the past few months, it is such a tough material to work with and I figured that there would be a better option. I've been having really good success with PETG, the warpage and bonding to the build plate are no longer problems, just glue stick. There is no smell and the enclosure door can be open or closed. I still print with no cooling fan for the best layer adhesion. If you get fed up with ABS, I would highly recommend PETG, similar flexibility, though it is shiny and some people don't like that.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for your advice. Problem is that in Brazil PETG and PLA are about 50% more expansive than ABS. But I've figure out some tricks to make it work properly in a Ender 3 (not V2), one of then was printing and installing this www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531 which has the Hot End fan sucking air instead of blowing - and it's a no-brainer how it helps to print ABS well.
So I'm testing and searching lots of tricks like these (you helped also), and the improvements are stacking.
@ That's partly why I started with ABS, it was cheaper, not as much anymore, PETG and PLA are just a few dollars more than ABS. I'll be trying the PETG with Carbon fiber soon, it runs around $8CAD more per spool, but it may be 2x as stiff, and looks amazing.
Now that is really interesting, I'd love to have an IR camera and record a timelapse of 3D prints to see how these types of mods help. Maybe down the road. The nano bed adhesive by far has been the best way I've found to bond ABS to the glass bed. It is a little pricey, but it can be thinned out with alcohol and a little does go a very long way.
Thanks for the tip!
Most your vids about speed? Not seeing much about strength, which i personally would be most interested in.
stop wasting filament on brims and slow down initial layer speed
I've tested slower initial speeds with no greater success, rounded corners helps, and brims help. The cost of a brim is less than a penny, I'm not concerned about that. The real cost is in the cleanup from removing a brim and that is one of the main reasons I've been experimenting with PETG. No warpage, no brim, no adhesion issues whatsoever...ever. Stringing is a bit of a problem and moisture absorption.
@@NeedItMakeIt for some reason youtube just gave me the notification of your reply. I didn't say stop wasting money... The cost of a automated filament recycler is like 10k. if I had a isolated space i'd print everything in abs. petg is great when you can avoid or hide stringing. It seems like you have found a way to stop wasting filament and save time on removing and printing the brim, so we agree.