Creality Ender 3 V2 - Speed up prints without sacrificing quality by turning on this setting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- So you want faster prints, so you go for speed, that doesn't always work out so well. So maybe you go for less infill. That doesn't produce strong parts, so maybe less wall lines... that causes the infill to show through. So what can you do to speed up your prints without having to deal with these problems?
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In this video I show you how to activate a very handy feature within Cura to speed up your printing process while keeping the same wall lines, infill % and you can keep the speed just the way you want it.
On a small part, this can save 1/2 an hour or more. On a large part it can have a much bigger impact.
Please try this out and let us know in the comments how it works for you. I've been using this method now for a few days, and it is working well. I would tend to stick to only doubling, tripling the value may cause some problems depending on your layer height settings.
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Great video, I love when people give little guides on obscure settings like this, Thanks!
Awesome! These aren't too tough to make. When I investigate these new features, I always find more features that could be helpful and I enjoy making them as well as problem solving, so I'll keep them coming.
At higher temps I use faster moving print head so as not to melt through earlier layers. Good vids man!
thanks for sharing this trick. i didnt even think you could do that. im going to try it
Thanks for the Tip ..I should've known this weeks before... saving me lots of printing time, and more delivery..
For sure, more coming soon!
This is the trick.
tested. works fine. thanks for sharing
👍👍👍😎 Just found your channel. This deserved a subscription. Looking forward to checking out the rest of your content.
Awesome, great to hear! I have lots more coming within the next few weeks and months. I just bought my first roll of Carbon Fibre PETG along with a hardened steel nozzle to test it out too! Can't wait to see what this stuff can do.
Thanks for this tip! I have a customer print that normally takes 8 hrs 22 min at .28 layer height, 55 mmps, 4 perimeters, 4 top and bottom layers and 25% grid infill (infill print time and percentage: 1:48 @ 22%). Changing the infill layer thickness to 0.56 reduced print time to 7 hrs 27 mins (infill print time and percentage: 0:58 @ 13%). Every little bit helps! Will print tonight to see how the layers look.
For sure, do you have faster inner walls turned on also? I started printing with a 0.4 nozzle, I switched to 0.5 and now I use 0.6. The dimensional accuracy is still very good, corners are a little more rounded which does not affect my prints at all. I also used to print with 5 walls, now I use 4 like you. 2 years ago, I was seeing about 10-12 hours for my prints, now they are slightly less than 7 on average. I still print only one part at a time because I don't have the cooling fans turned on and movement between parts creates little irregularities, I also switched to PETG, much better than ABS for bed adhesion and it is still flexible.
I did have a problem with one of my prints when I doubled the infill layer thickness, I'm not sure if it was caused by a problem with the STL or Cura, in either case for that one part only, I switched back to the normal infill height and it worked.
@@NeedItMakeIt I don't - my inner walls are at the same speed as outer - I can change that. I DO have 'infill layer thickness' set to twice my layer height - which also improves speed.
how'd it go?
is it ok for the ender v2 to be running for 8 -12 hour prints?
@@RoomSixty6 absolutely. The largest print i've done on a regular Ender 3 Pro is about 29 hours. my friend has printed something that took 44 hours with no problems. As long as you take good care of your ender, i've seen people print 50hr+ prints
Nice tip, thanks for sharing! If you change your infill pattern to zig-zag you will see a decrease in print time due to less retractions and less travel moves. ;)
Great tip!
What infill density and speeds are you doing it at? I seem to get faster times with grid.
@@2iinfinite I always use Cubic, because my prints are structural, it isn't the most efficient pattern but it has lots of straight lines and doesn't wobble my machine around like gyroid. I normally run infill at 60-65 and 35% Infill for cubic, which is pretty tight, but the parts I make take a fair amount of load in compression and I don't want any trouble. I also print with a 0.8 nozzle and 0.2 lay ht along with 5 bottoms and 6 tops, and 4 walls with the outer about 25% slower.
very very very helpful, thank you
For the next video I'm going to need a more clickbaity title, thanks.
How is: "This technique will blow your mind." :)
@@NeedItMakeIt ‘you won’t know what to do with all the time you save with this simple hack’ great vid thanks
@@chucksaduck I'm sure there are many more hidden GEMS we can cash in on. I have another video set to release by Monday. It covers some quality issues which do save time in cleanup and of course everyone wants that elusive perfect print. Most of the time I try and think of ways to save time and the software has something built-in that accomplishes something similar, so I go looking. I discovered one the other day, and it will be shown in the upcoming video... it could be pretty useful for some people.
@@NeedItMakeIt I’m very new, so maybe I’m easily satisfied, but idk what a “perfect” print looks like? We’ll always be able to see layers right? It’s like Moby Dick. Or like a cat chasing a laser pointer. I feel this way but I also know the value of striving to be better, I’m just easily satisfied. I don’t even clean up my pieces all the way because I think the aesthetic and people can better understand how it was made by seeing strings
@@chucksaduck There really isn't such a thing as a perfect print... 'beauty is in the eye' type of thing. If you plan on selling prints, it is fairly important to have nice looking ones, if not it really is up to you how far you want to go. Most of my solutions are simple and I keep the settings pretty much the same for all of my prints. If you happen to watch the next video (looks like it will be tomorrow) let me know what you think.
As well as settings, there are some printer related problems which can lead to poor quality prints as well, and I'll be covering some of those in future as well.
Thanks!
Thanks for reminding me this setting exists. .D
Same here dude, Ive been looking for a while
Very helpful tip I just subbed and I haven't even taken my in the three V2 out of the box yet!
Great tip, I didn't know this
Glad I could help
Thanks for sharing
For people who use Simplify3D, the equivalent setting is "Combine Infill Every _ Layers". Using the example in the video, a layer height of 0.18 mm would use a value of 2 to obtain 0.36 mm infill
Thanks, I've been meaning to try S3D, do you prefer it to Cura?
@@NeedItMakeIt PrusaSlicer is far better than Cura or S3D.
@@nakwadroid I'll check it out, is it free? I do want the ability to print honeycomb infill, Cura does not have this.
@@NeedItMakeIt it's free, you can use it with any FDM printer, it offers heaps of different infill patterns, including honeycomb. I switched to gyroid pattern, my new favourite. It also features ironing and custom supports.
Been using this slicer since I got my MK3S in March this year and never looked back.
Thomas Sanladerer made a video about the recent 2.3.0 release.
Have fun :)
Great video! I like your channel! I am subscribed!
Good point. it makes no sense to get high resolution for infill anyway. not even visible
Great video. It doesn't look like it affects the appearance or strength of the finished print all that much. I'm looking to get a 3d printer soon (probably an Ender 5). I know for myself, anything that can lower the print time will be welcome.
Thanks, I print with these settings for all of my prints, including a few other timesavers. I save a bit here, but spend a little more where it counts and the final products really look good. I am planning more time saving videos for future, I'd also like to test the limits of this printer.... without breaking it. Good luck with your purchase, I'd like a larger print volume for sure, but I do like the compact size of this one, I could take it with me anywhere if I needed to.
thanks for showing me how to optimize my block placement in Minecraft
I've played that one time. I prefer Mario Bros.
Have you shared your cura petg profile somewhere? Thanks and keep up the good work
This feature in PrusaSlicer: "Combine infill every [2] layers"
Imho you need to decrease the temp like 5/10 Celsius degrees to solve stringing and bumps
Good idea! Is there something similar in Simplify 3D?
Hello Thanks for sharing good stuff, I wanted to know about variable speed. Mean to say that is possible to give command "User defined speed" Like 1 to 100 slices at 30 MM, Next 200 slices at 40 MM and next 100 slices at 50MM ? I have total 400 slices in a particular print.
TL;DW: Double the "Infill layer thickness" setting so that your infill layers are double height and infill prints faster.
Saved you 7 minutes of listening to this guy drivel on.
Thanks man, I hate when they make videos like these where they can easily put this in the description but instead they want you to give them views. Lame
Douche bags
Guys like this.... Bitch about what people have done, but have no videos of their own. Start making your on perfect videos if you see a niche that needs your expertise. Until then, there is a ff button if you need it. I bet a lot of newer people found this video helpful as is.
@@DavinDesborough people who bitch and complain about this don't think far enough ahead to see that if everyone made super short videos and didn't get advertisement there would be far fewer technical/useful videos in the end. Sounds to me like a case of beggars who want to be picky about something they are getting for free to begin with. What content creator wants to pour their valuable time into making a bunch of helpful videos if there's no incentive in the end? Let's see if the complainers would enjoy having their work given away for less income.
Awesome! Very helpful! I’m wondering though, how do you view around in cura like that? When I do it I can only rotate and zoom.
I believe I press Ctrl down when zooming and rotating. Shift works also to pan around. If you go into settings under general you can also adjust the zoom so that it will zoom toward mouse direction. I hope this helps, and thanks for the support!
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you so much for the help! You have no idea how helpful that was and how much my life has changed! Love the channel!
You can also hold down your right mouse button , and then rotate the model around using your mouse.
From a structural view, it seems like thicker via one extrusion, would be stronger than the same thickness via multiple and smaller extrusions. (Don't most prints fail a stress tests between layers.)
I would think so as well, there are methods of creating double/triple the lines for infill as well within cura. I have done this in a recently video to create a very still part with no top or bottom layers and it turned out very well.
Yes, layer adhesion seem to be by far the weak link in the structure, there were recently 2 videos posted on printing 100% infilled parts and baking them to the melting point in salt, or a sodium mix to make a homogenous part. I'd like to try baking soda with a very fine texture to see how they'd turn out.
I print most of my work with the fan turned off, or set very low, small prints being the only exception.
Stefan (CNC Kitchen) made a video and post about layer height strength - www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-layer-height-on-the-strength-of-fdm-3d-prints
very good!
Have you dried your ABS and seen better results? I had a couple prints do the bumpy little blobs with ABS and it was too high on the temp. I took it down 5c mid print and it cleared up. That is without drying it first
Most filaments seem to perform better when dried, some people say that ABS isn't hydroscopic, but it is, just not as much as PLA or PETG. I've always liked the look of an ABS print, and of course the properties, but I still like to print with PETG mainly because it doesn't warp and shrink like ABS does. Even PLA warps more than PETG.
Abs does indeed have moisture issues. I use to be a mold tech doing injection molding. If abs wasn't dried long enough you could definitely see issues from it.
It's been a while since I posted this video, I can't recall exactly what I said about ABS, but yeah, best to dry all filaments before printing with them, including ABS. I still don't have the same issues with moisture in ABS as I do with PETG or PLA, but the results are better with dried ABS than without. Funny that a material we use for drain pipes would be hydroscopic.
noice! any chance you can share your optimal cura profiile? thanks!
Nice tip, can't wait to try it. One thing though, about ABS. ABS is a very hygroscopic material which does requires drying. Being an injection molding technician for the past decade you can take my word on it.
Now that is interesting, always possible that there is poor info about ABS online, also the assumption that because ABS is used in plumbing gives the impression that it would not... absorbing moisture and springing a leak are two different things. I've only had issue with one filament absorbing enough moisture to cause visible defects, and that is the silver. All storage conditions are the same for my ABS filaments, the only variable is the ingredients and printed directly from the packaging worked well, in the summer humidity the silver started to cause the surface finish to have tiny bubbles appear and a little noise during the extrusion process. I wonder if it contains a material which readily absorbs moisture beyond the ABS itself.
"ABS is a very hygroscopic material "..
It's not, never had issues with wet ABS filament.. Only PETG and Nylon requires drying
Look at this: th-cam.com/video/CTrG7OAlsEA/w-d-xo.html
@@winandd8649 dude I work in plastics for a living as an injection molding technician. You know notta
@@trollchi Sure,but we're printing here, not injection molding. Of course you're gonna say that the material is the same, but I've *never* seen anyone who has troubles with printing too moist ABS filament.
Look at the video above, speaks for itself.
Have a nice day!
Have you posted your full settings anywhere?
I have and Ender 3. I feel it is pretty well tuned. I only make functional mechanical parts. How would you adjust the slicer settings to get more accurate Holes or slip firs? I do apply a tolerance to holes in Fusion around 0,1mm But I shouldn't have to have to keep going back into 360 to compensate. What wettings in Cura (etc) should I be tuning to get more accurate slices? Thanks.
Holes can be tough, no matter which printer, they can always be trouble. What I normally do when it's something large, is create a hole with only a few areas which make contact. If it's something that needs to have full contact. I usually give 0.1mm tolerance like you do, I also chamfer the bottom edges, but I have a chamfer which is 60+/- degrees that avoids the elephant's foot issues we can have. The other issue I run into sometimes is that the seam inside the hole isn't perfect and causes a poor fit. If you add a small sharp triangular cutout on the inside of the hole, it will tend to want to add the seam there and it will avoid causing the seam to come into the hole at all. This solution doesn't work on horizontally printed holes though, those holes are usually a bit harder to control.
Would you be able to provide a photo or send me an email and I can give to some solutions that work better for your exact scenario?
@@NeedItMakeIt Assuming the file is good. Printer is calibrated X,Y, Extruder. I have messed with, adjusting flow rate, line width. Then there is "Horizontal Expansion" and "Hole Expansion". But I'm not sure if fixing A screws up B. Also "Slicing Tolerances" Mid, inside or outside.
U may have used Cura 4.7.x to print? It has known bugs for improper printing around the curves. V4.8 recently released from beta, use that. They fixed it.
Hey, thanks for the tip, I did switch a few weeks ago, I am always looking for the newest features to activate for my prints. It could have been 4.7 for sure, I also find that printing through Octoprint causes a delay around curves on occasion. I normally still print through Octoprint, however I load the file to the SD card first manually, and then activate pre-heat and printing through Octoprint and that seems to get rid of the problem. How these printers still use serial ports to transfer data I have no clue.
@@NeedItMakeIt I had a big problem with curves like this when I ran octoprint from a raspberry pi 1. It turned out to be the slower processing speed that couldn't keep up with sending the codes, so the printer was waiting for the next move command while still extruding filament. It was worse when I ran faster feed rates, and worse when I ran 2 printers at the same time from the same pi. If I slowed the speed down, it would fix the problem. If I lowered the resolution on the .stl file, it would fix the problem. But these were bandaid fixes, and ultimately I replaced the pi with a 3b and the problem went away entirely, and I can run multiple printers no problem.
So these settings you gave us are only good if we use a 0.6mm nozzle?
Cura shows wider lines when the extrusion width is increased. The setting is also multiplying the width of the infill lines.
I need to update soon
Try Messing with mesh fixes>line resolution, try some test with increasing and decreasing them. You will get better result with layer lines. I fix mine with that setting.
I'll check it out, I haven't played around with that one yet. I have all settings in Cura visible now and am working my way through them. Thanks!
Those bubbles - from the higher temp. - My take.
It is related to temp for sure, what I've seen over the summer (without our AC turned on) is that only this filament at 235 nozzle temp will bubble. The nozzle temp being so high will cause any moisture to expand when creating steam. I guess this happens more commonly with PLA, nylon etc. and it needs to be kept dry. I always had my filament in the enclosure with the printer in the past, when I upgraded to the Ender 3 V2, there wasn't enough room. I would be pretty easy to test this if that is something that you think would make an interesting video. What do you think?
@Martin Luther I think it is fairly easy to tell the difference between a surface defect caused by feeding Gcode through the slow serial connection in Octoprint and moisture expanding into steam when it is extruding.
There is a big difference as well if you just watch the filament ooze out of the nozzle before the print begins. There is a difference in the sound as well. What I found to be odd is that the silver filament in ABS as the only one I had this problem with, I figured it must have been the additive to give it the reflective metallic look. I think it is worth a little more investigation at least, maybe not a video, but we'll see if I can find the time.
or moisture in the filament
Dryer Filament has definitely improved my print quality, especially with PETG. Second best one is K factor (linear advance).
Is there a way to do this with inner walls too?
Set octolapse to snap to print and set snapshot delay to 0 (zero) and eliminate the "fingers".
I will have a look! It will not leave the part during a shot? I have corrected the issue with my unresponsive retractions now, but I still see some of these fingers on occasion.
I implemented this trick and I'm strongly suspecting that this is the reason why my prints have been significantly failing due to nozzle impact on the printed object....If I change back to infill height the same as the layer height fixes my new problem then I would advise you to rethink this video since on alot of prints the travel may cause the nozzle impact and the resulting layer shift issue...could possibly be fixed with z hop as well but I'll update this comment once I determine if it's the cause or not...
increase your wall count to remove infill imperfections showing up outside the model. 4-5 walls is amazing
That's a great tip! I normally use three, recently used 4 w/ 1mm nozzle and there are no traces of infill.
@@NeedItMakeIt absolutely. Four is the minimum to get perfect walls in my experience! It also makes the shell much stronger. You can increase the speed for printing the inner walls as they will not be seen but use a lower speed for the outermost wall so it gets printed better and with higher dimensional accuracy. Also, ensure that “infill before walls” is not selected, since if the infill is printed before the walls, there will be visual cues of the infill through the walls and the walls will not be perfectly smooth, no matter how many walls you choose.
I couldn't find the combing video, how is it called?
would love to see this for PLA
It should be doable. I don't print much PLA at the moment because it sticks too well to my build plate and I need to break the parts to remove them. I'd need to switch to a flexible mat so that I don't ruin the parts... again.
@@NeedItMakeIt I've had trouble getting some PLA prints off of the Ender 3 Glass bed that came on the V2 and the only thing that has worked for me was to place the bed in our chest freezer for about 5-10 minutes. If the pieces don't pop right off, I can usually whack them lightly with the handle of a tool and they pop right off.
@@therising1 Funnily enough I do exactly the same and have been able to print and successfully remove some very fine Christmas decorations using this technique. For what it's worth I do always let the bed cool completely first though but that's probably just my paranoia.
@@SomaliCoastguard nah I think that's good practice. I usually wait for the bed to cool to 30c or so and then put it in. I think going right from 60c or whatever your printing bed temp is could potentially cause issues so it's best to be safe!
What are you using for a build plate and butter? Can you link me to a video about this.
Don't use butter, that's a going joke on my channel. I do use borosilicate glass for my build plate, and I like it. I would like to try steel in future, I'd like to see if it will help to bring the speed up a little by lowering the mass of the moving Y axis.
Would that work with lightning infill?
Re moisture in your filament... I'm not 100% on that... I think your filament is fine. It's potentially an issue from using Octoprint to stream your gcode. If you print from the SDCard, you might find the surface defects clear up. For reference, google Octoprint stutter. I had surface defects introduced with a version of octoprint, thought it was something I'd done wrong and bad filament..... after months of testing. Turned out to be Octoprint itself doing it.
Haven't used octoprint since and zero surface defect problems regardless of the filament I've used.
Challenge accepted! By the way, you make an excellent point about Octoprint, I don't know how many people are aware of this issue. The transfer of code through the serial port is very slow and can cause a short pause and start between movements especially for intricate parts or many short movements. To get around this, I load my prints to the sd card then activate them through Octoprint and Spaghetti detective. This allows me to watch the prints from anywhere but I don't get the fancy timelapses of course. It also is super hard to read the file names this way, so I keep them to only a few characters.
I have to believe there is a better method than a serial port, we're nearly in 2021, the transfer of data isn't an issue anymore, why is transferring a couple of MB of Gcode over 7-10 hours time still a real problem?
@@NeedItMakeIt there was also a change in cura at one point where the slicing resolution was turned up really high and was causing the gcode to be overly complex for the simple curved movements needed. It led to much higher file sizes, thus exasperated the problem with the serial port speed. Reducing the resolution to about the same size as your nozzle or just smaller worked well with no noticeable difference.
Also some thought disabling error correction helped octoprint reduce the overhead in the data speed.
I don't think it helped.
It's worth noting also that 8bit board have small serial buffers. The more likely issue really to the problem where is couldn't store enough data quick enough and would run dry
Thanks I am also using 0.6 but get a lot of stringing. Any tips on stringing?
Hi, I have a few tips, it does depend a lot on the material you are printing and to some extent the brant/ingredients in the filament.
First, if you have a bowden tube that shifts back and fourth, you'll likely have to use a 5-6mm retraction distance, it will get worse over time as well (I'm still working on a 100% effective solution to this problem). I personally print with no fan, and because of this, movements between parts can pull a small amount of the extruded material off and it appears as blobs/stringing, I use z-hop which helps a little bit, retraction distance also helps a little to reduce the oozing of filament. The next is print temp, I'd throw a few test pieces up and see which temp works the best for your filament, if you go higher than you need, you'll get more oozing from the nozzle at any movement. There are other corrections, but since I personally don't have the fan turned on with my prints and I know I can't completely stop it, I print only one piece at a time, it does take longer of course, but the prints turn out much nicer and that's worth it for me.
Let me know if any of these help you out. I have more solutions I can offer. Also if you can provide a photo on Imgur or send one to needitmakeit@gmail.com that would be helpful.
try adding combing
@@Jessersadler Yes, it works wonders, I have a video on combing as well. I have another video touching on it again with very clear samples to show the improvements. I still wonder why you'd ever turn it off.
@@NeedItMakeIt not sure it comes "on". . .
I'm trying this right now with Ikea Lack adapters for my E3V2 in PLA. I'll let you know what I think when they're finished. I did a 0.4 infill layer thickness and a 0.2 layer height. Cura gave me an orange box at 0.4 but we'll see what happens. It's a long print cause I added some other parts, but when it was just the two Ikea risers it went from over 9(000) hours to just under 7 hours. Not a bad savings in time! But, whether the parts are viable or not is unknown right now. Obviously, the weak spots in my application are in perpendicular loading of the riser, which it almost never sees being that the load is directly on top of the part. May not be an issue...
I've often thought about using the gyroid infill and adding epoxy, the gyroid remains open so it can be completely filled up, and it would probably make a really strong print. It is also possible to fill with silicone, but I'm not sure how it would fill up or bond it is probably too thick. I'll have to lookup that adapter. Too bad there isn't a way to share images on these posts, that would be really helpful.
@@NeedItMakeIt I was just thinking of how I could share a print image with you of these risers right now. Maybe over on reddit.
As for infill with epoxy, I think that could work as long as you had a vibrator or something similar to make sure it flowed to the bottom. Would be a super strong part without a doubt.
@@NeedItMakeIt Just finished the first batch and it looks perfect. I had some stringing in only a few places but the surfaces look nearly perfect. Feels very rigid. I can't prove it, but it is likely close to the same strength. I'll print another batch for the rear legs and run with these. I have confidence they're perfectly fine.
@@therising1 Excellent, by chance are you printing these parts for an enclosure?
@@NeedItMakeIt Yes, I'm doing the Ikea Lack Enclosure for my E3V2. I'm not so much interested in heat retention for ABS because I'm likely not going to print much for the time being but I need a way to keep my kids away from it! I have three boys under the age of 7 and the two year old could destroy a Walmart in under 15 minutes. So...I need some security!
Hi, on ender 3 v2. Nozzle 0.4mm, layer height 0.2, do you recommend put infill layer thickness on 0.4? I saw an object takes 11 hours and with that in 0.4 takes 10 hours. But i don't know if it would be right with a 0.4 nozzle
I would not go quite that far with the infill thickness, I'd tend to stick with .16 and .32 if you're printing PLA it is probably fine, with PETG, the infill become a hazard to travel over and it will cause the build plate to move over time. It is worth trying both options. Some other options are to use your standard 0.2 layer thickness throughout and change the infill to be more sparse, then change the infill extrusion to 0.6 for wider infill lines to compensate, you'll gain a bit of speed there also.
@@NeedItMakeIt doesn't seem like a good idea since .2mm for all parts is faster than .16/.32. At least this is true for smaller models. For bigger object with not a lot of detail, might as well use .32 for walls and infill.
How did you Timelapse with nozzle out of the way
This is a feature in Octoprint (Octolapse Plugin I believe) which allows you to do a 'smooth' timelapse. What it does is park the head out of the way and then take a quick shot, the only issue with this is that with PETG at least it tends to ooze a bit and can leave some blobbing, but ABS and PLA are pretty good. There is also a way to wipe before you start printing again, but I never went that far.
I tried making a 3 piece print like thies.. but then the printer does not recognize the fact it has to go up to go over other walls... just you can only do this with a 1 part print. ( tried copying your cam with stand setup of 3 pieces ) and I saw your time was 3 hours something there in cura... mine was 7... so I figured you had the infill setting on. Tried but it ripped though all my parts. gonna clean the glass plate when it cooled. What settings did you had turned on ? for the octopi cam to make it a 3 hour something print. I tried copying your top botom layers like you have em so you get the open look with the stand. and yes I only have pla so Might not be a good idea ?
Here is my profile, I always have z-hop activated to avoid any parts, I also have part avoidance activated, but truthfully I don't often print more than 1 part at a time. I need my parts to have really good layer adhesion and travel moves can leave tiny imperfections in the surface between parts, So I either align the parts so that they are back to back, or I just print one. I think there may be other settings in Cura to activate to improve these problems
Here is my profile: drive.google.com/file/d/1plhaXV8HkmL17OqxWybYdQdBNrmtYVGQ/view?usp=sharing
I have fast inner walls, 75mm/s infill, combing turned on, z-hop, part avoidance and then the settings in the video of course. Let me know if you need any help.
@@NeedItMakeIt I downloaded it but can't seem to import it in cura?
I just tried whilein profiles. Import... and then it failed.
Any similar tips for increasing support printing speed?
I rarely print with support, mainly because I print structural type parts and I don't have a cooling fan turned on, the supports can make a mess of the surfaces. I can have a look in cura and investigate this a little if you think it could help. Do you have a preference for the pattern used for supports?
@@NeedItMakeIt no, i own a E3V2 for like a month and I'm getting all the tips i can. If only, i use tree supports since they print faster, more efficient and look cooler. Other than that I try to use the least amount of support possible
I have one pretty good technique that may work for you. I print a part ahead of time and add it to the build plate with some glue stick when the print gets to the correct height. If you add tape to the top of the part with a bit of glue stick to the top, it will allow the freshly printed material to stick. I've tested this a few times and it does work well. You may also find an object around the house that is nearly the height you want and add a 3d printed part to the top. Of course this only works in certain situations, but it is a neat technique. I've used it for getting a clean bearing surface for... bearings.
I plan on making a video once I've perfected it.
great video bro. I have the ender3 v2 as well. but I cannot go more than 55m/s for speed. because I get shifting in my print. how to solve this?
That's not good, I'd suggest Z-hop and part avoidance and if you use a glass build plate add a few more clips to hold it in place.... just yesterday I had mine move on me and it ruined my print.. It is also possible that the belts are worn or not tight enough and you have slippage happening. I keep my belts fairly tight on this printer, it can handle it.
Do you have Octoprint? If you do, have a look at the time lapse, this helps me a lot when I need to find out what went wrong.
If you need more help, send a picture to needitmakeit@gmail.com
Thanks and good luck!
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for your reply. I use a new ender3 v2. Just 1 week of using with few prints only for testing. The bed is the stock glass bed with two clips, they hold the bed very well. I think the problem comes from y and x belts. How tight I can tight them?
trying your idea on infill and not working good for me, i have mine set at .2 layer height and then did .4 infill layer thinckness and did what you said and saved time but since it put infill on every other layer the infill was all loose and stringy using gyroid, gonna see at end of print if it made a difference. Don't know if this would be good if you have alot of bridging, it could sag possibly. To bad i could put a pic to show you.
I suspect that is because of it being Gyroid. This technique will work best for infills with straight travels due to the gap between layers. Have not tested this theory.
I have not tried the gyroid, I will do a test when I have a chance. 0.2 and 0.4 layer heights in general are are quite thick, extrusion temp/speed could be a problem, overhangs and bridging as well. It is possible, nozzle size would play into this as well (Cura should identify this if it is a problem).
is this compatible with ender 3 pro?
When you compared the 2 different print times, you used the same print speed (65) which showed about a 30-40 minute difference
However later in the video you stated you change your print speed to slow it down from 75 to 65 when you use this feature.
Why didn’t you compare the total print time after making that change? Would it still be as significant?
I can't quite recall exactly why that was, my prints are made for sale, it is important to make them as nice as possible for the customer within the time constraints I have. I am still experimenting with this setting and I leave it on all of the time, I have found that speeding up the inner walls to 60 and the outer 1 layer to 40 gives a nice print with the E3V2 with PETG at 236C nozzle.
In future I will be doing better for apples to apples comparisons.
Thanks for your thoughts!
I'M SENDING IT!! 120mm/s! Innfill being twice the width... Now, lets pray....
OMG, that's fast, are you running the stock hotend? With a small nozzle you should be fine, I tried running a 1mm nozzle with 0.3mm layer height and it was a tough go, the infill overlap caused such large raised areas that the nozzle ended up moving the build-plate when it went over the surface. I just made the most accurate part I've ever made with a 0.4mm, and 40% gyro infill vibrating the printer around the room! It parts still turned out very well.
@@NeedItMakeIt 😂
Cr10s. Stock hotend and extruder yeah! Only 0.4 nozzle. And going smooth as F so far!
I did recently do a fang/fan mod where i use a blower at full power on the heatsink tho, and man my print has stayd perfect all the time since. No sign of grinding in the extruder or nothing. Witch i have had lots of before due to heatcreap. And i can run fast no, much faster than before. And yeah, i did even run a 4020 fan on the heatsink before. 10x better now. Crazy.
Never thought heatsink cooling would matter that much, but always still had a feeling it always was heatcreep related since the original design is crap.
Recently just ran a vase mode print in like 70mms, with 0.8 nozzle and 1.6mm line width! Was perfect. So im going higher next one! :D
If you are interested in getting rid of that bandicam watermark you can use OBS which is free
I will check it out, thank you! I have been removing the watermarks lately by zooming, but I may not catch everyone and I'd really prefer to not have to add the extra step. I've also been experimenting with WIN+G command, which does a recording for games, it seems to work very well... except in the past it didn't capture all of the dialogue boxes and that can be a problem.
Would this work for the Creality Ender 6? Even if it's Ender 3?
Yes, these settings will work for any FDM 3d printer.
I heard multiple times your layer height is supposed to go by multiplying the nozzle " for me is .4". So 4 ,8 , 12 , 16 , 20 , 24
How come yours is .18? Am i missing something. just a little confused..
no that's not true. The layer height should depend on your stepper motors. (Search for ender3 magic numbers if u want the full story) in short, one step of an Ender3 moves the nozzle 0.04mm. So if u go in multiples of that number your printer really can step to that heigt, like 0.16mm layer height -> 4 steps for the next layer, where as with a 0.18mm layer height your printer will have to do something akward sind it can only really go to 0.2 or 0.16 and not in between... so the layer height wont be equall over all layers to achieve the over all 0.18. (something like 1x 0.2 + 2x 0.16 to get a 0.18 over 3 layers)
Thanks, I've been meaning to test this myself to see if there are visible differences.
How the heck do you zoom in on Cura that way? Every time I zoom in cura, it focuses on one point and moves in a line toward the part and I can almost never see the detail I wanna see at that zoom level. I just use arrow keys and then + and - .
I would also like to know. lol
Haha, I read this and thought... I have no idea. I just did a test to see what it is that I do and it turns out that I was centering the object on the screen with the mouse first and then zooming in. Holding the right mouse button down at the same time to give me the angle I need. Lots of other programs follow the mouse, this one is based on panning the zoom location to the center of the screen first which seems a bit odd, I guess I got used to it.
Okay, all that said, I just found a feature to turn on which allows you to zoom towards the mouse. Go to your printer settings, click manage printers, general, then look for the zoom toward mouse direction checkbox (5th down under viewport behavior). I think I'll keep this one turned on, much nicer to use now.
Does that help?
I don't know if you are notified for responses to the original comment, please check my response to Forestbird, hopefully it helps.
If your right click and hold down shift you can move your view with your mouse I know that
@@NeedItMakeIt I just saw this comment, I apologize for the delay. I will try that tonight. It has always been super annoying and counter intuitive to zoom to center for me. LOL. I feel like it zooms toward the center of the build plate, and the center of the Z travel. I am usually printing flatter parts, so it almost never lets me see what I want, which is the part touching the build plate at a close zoom. LOL. I am going to try this. Thank you.
what are those things your always printing or is this just a test print?
These are parts I've designed to Mod the Bowflex original 3.1 bench due to the poor adjustment it had. I designed them for myself and posted to Thingiverse expecting more people had 3D printers to print the parts themselves, instead there has been quite a demand to print these parts for people in the US and Canada. This is the same reason that you'll see these parts with extremely heavy infill, thick walls and a larger nozzle.
th-cam.com/video/9M2wX5IQAYU/w-d-xo.html
I've performed compression tests on these parts, and I do not have the ability to compress them to the breaking point... yet. current loading is 1021 psi using ABS. I'm testing in compression since these parts are only used in compression.
They work well as test prints as well as I have printed so many, I can tell if there is something wrong compared to previous prints.
I hope that answers your question.
What camera are you using for your timelapses? Thanks!
Hi, just the PI V2 camera. In order to get it nicely focused, I print in the furthest corner. The camera is a little tough to adjust and make sure you have lots of light, that helps quite a bit.
@@NeedItMakeIt ok awesome, thank you for the tip, I appreciate it! Your quality looks amazing, so I'm hoping I can achieve those same results.
@@JDMsohc Thanks, and for sure you can! I have something new also which I expect will blow those timelapses away. Get as much light in there as you can and you'll get good results just from that alone (Not from the back, from the direction the camera is shooting from).
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for that added info, much appreciated! I got my V2 RPI cam all set up, but you're right, it definitely needs more light! I was going to do one of those generic led strips across the bottom of the top rail, but I think maybe one of those selfie led rings would work better since it'd be facing it and not shining down on the print.
Can this work with alternate extra wall?
Interesting question, I created a quick test and it is not quite what I would expect. I think it could lead to some problems. The alternating wall still appears every other layer, it would cause excess material to build up and I'd imaging the nozzle would start to rub and collide with it. Do you use alternating wall, I've never used it personally, but maybe there are some benefits for structural parts.
I think the bumps on the new print is the filament calling out for added butter.
Butter alone can solve most problems, I agree.
How would you pick up speed on a part that needed 100% fill?
That is a great question, I would have to experiment a bit.
@@NeedItMakeIt I picked up the same size tip you have, and I'm going to do some printing next week. Love to get a idea on starting points and settings on the ender 3v2 I have. Thanks for the reply.
so would these setting work with pla models.
I'm sure some of the settings would work for you, I print PLA on occasion and I always have fast inner walls turned on, I also always have combing mode turned on as well as z-hop. No matter the material I keep the cooling fans low for better layer adhesion and I print in an enclosure as well to keep the part temp a bit higher for adhesion also. Here is a profile for PETG which might work for you. drive.google.com/file/d/1ld49Uw8gVbhItDMS0YO8g5zaXGgZ_Qoo/view?usp=sharing
Man, I love these videos, but I upgraded my v2 to a Bondtech DDX and a Slice Copperhead... I wonder how a direct drive system would affect the cura settings you have posted.
Maybe I need to buy another printer and outfit one with a direct drive as well. That would be really good to do comparisons between them. Maybe if my channel does a little better in the next while it would help to cover the expense. Bondtech, I'll have to check that out. I've seen the name copperhead lately, I will look into that. Are you happy with it?
@@NeedItMakeIt The level of support with Bondtech is unparalleled as with Slice, but Bondtech surpasses all hopes and dreams in that matter. Beyond happy with the upgrades. This is my FIRST printer, I got the v2, printed the cat and then immediately upgraded (I heard the extruder and hot end are not great on Ender). Once I figured out that the estep value can be changed via cura I haven't had one issue to speak of. I'm a complete noob haha. It was not cheap. Probably cost more than the printer to upgrade to those specific parts. I hear the micro Swiss as well as other cheaper options aren't bad, I just wanted the best I could afford, and Bondtech/ Slice combo is that imo.
@@AgnosiaAgnosis Those are really expensive upgrades that you don't even know if you needed. Why'd you do them?
@@therising1 r u jealous?
@@therising1 every person on here recommends upgrading extruder and hot end... if I gotta do that might as well get direct drive... might as well get the best.
I just got into 3D printing, could you possible share your profile? or some of them. I have a few but want to try others. Problem I'm having is stringing and the prints quality not being the greatest. And my prints take ages. Around 1h 15m for 1 meter of filament
I can, can you email me? Do you have a way of drying your filament?
@@NeedItMakeIt I do not have a way of drying my filament. I keep them in a cardboard box. Sending you email rn
@@PortalColin Try to find some method, a warm light in a box, or a filament dryer is ideal, they're pretty inexpensive, maybe something used? It does make a big difference. Good luck!
Can’t see settings resolution is too big. Need zoom
Infill layer thickness
Yes, I have a video on that as well, I do find that with the larger nozzles it gets risky unless you choose an infill which does not pass over itself. The nozzle ends up hitting the infill and knocks the build plate off.
doubt that part even needs the infill.
can't cura set infil to specific hights like S3D yet ?
This part is load bearing, it does require infill. I've never used S3D I will check it out. Thanks.
@@NeedItMakeIt aaah ok
S3D is not free though
but ha's some rly nice features to it , that ...at the time i bought it , only S3D has/had
like custom supports and variable wizard
@@takoza5396 Okay, that's good to know. Maybe there is a trial version, I try to avoid supports anytime I can, but sometimes you need them, it would be helpful to have more control than I do with Cura. Cura is also missing Hexagonal infill, and that's not very good, it is a really handy infill for those vent covers etc. I'm not sure why a simple infill like that would be missing.
wel yea , i hate supports aswell lol XD
that's the main reason why i bought it honestly
i save ALLOT on infill , lets say the part is 100 in hight , i would only give it some light grid infil at like 98, and make it stop at 101
make the walls for that bit 1 r 2 thicker
@@takoza5396 Cool, that's really helpful, and you just gave me some ideas to test out as well to save some infill on structural parts. Which type of filament do you use mainly? I print with ABS and no cooling fan turned on, bridging is a bit of a problem for me. I may switch to something different but I'd need to test it for strength first.
I have tried this on my Sidewinder X1 but it only saves 10 minutes. Original time 4 hours 38 min, new time 4 hours 28 min. Using .04 nozzle with .2 layer height, 10% infill and .3 infill thickness. Am I doing something wrong
I suppose it really depends on your infill % and speed settings. For example I use 35 % as standard, both because I print with no fan and I need lots of support for the top layers and also because the parts I print bear load in compression. If you print with 10% infill, you'll see quite a bit less savings.
How do you like your sidewinder? Any complaints?
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you! Makes sense.
Can you make your own infill pattern?
Now that is a cool idea. I can't imagine doing better than what they have, do you have ideas?
@@NeedItMakeIt 1st idea cross pattern but lay each line on alternate layers so the will still bond on the cross area. I have more ideas just harder to explain in text
Cranking up inner wall speed can cause bad connection of inner walls to outer walls. So it can cause weak printed parts!
Is there a number you would consider to be 'Cranked'? I would not consider 57mm/s fast, though 78 for the infill is getting up there. If someone is concerned, turn the fans off, and the nozzle temp higher to promote better adhesion. I also set prints to over extrude slightly (1%).
An interesting topic to cover.
@@NeedItMakeIt It's can be very noticeable when using Linear Advance. If outer walls are printed on 30mm/s and inner walls at more than twice faster then it usually happens. In my case I've seen this at usual settings (30 and 60mm/s). LA on a bowden Ender3 (or with a similar length of tube) can't be used without a pretty high K value and E-jerk (20-30).
IDK, maybe I've set up something wrong... But my K was 0.8 to print with accurate dimensions (Tevo Flash).
P.S. this must be tested on curved surfaces. Straight lines may be printed better.
I'm confused... the original print time was 1 hour and 2 minutes... The second print time was 2 hours and 40 minutes, You almost tripled the print time... so how is this speeding up prints?
The time you're referring to is only the infill for the original setup, overall print time was 3 hours 10 minutes.
With modifications, the infill speed changed to 35 minutes, with an overall print time around 2 hours and 40 minutes.
I hope this helps, thanks.
Your prints may be faster but they will also be much weaker.
I personally print BOTH infill directions on EVERY layer for 95% of my prints.
Prints are weak in tension, in compression they will be plenty strong. You're right, the layer bonding will not be as good, each situation is different, my prints are to bear load in compression, and transfer loading to a steel frame. These prints for example have been tested in compression with my load cell to beyond 1000psi with no visible damage, I use cubic infill at 35% with a 0.8mm nozzle. I've recently switched to a 1mm nozzle and though I have not tested the capacity, it should be well beyond that of the 0.8. Careful with the infill height with the larger nozzle, the bypass of the infill becomes a problem for the printer to deal with and it likes to move the glass around.
klipper
0:00 - 0:01 ;)))
难搞 听懂一个 good 一个abs😭😭😭
把填充层高设置为普通模型层高的两倍，打印两层模型才打印一层填充，节省时间。
TLDR make infill thicker (not %, just layer height)
thank you for making a 10 minute video on a 30 second thing
Not everything is perfect from the start. My newest videos are much shorter with better video and audio as I learn what is most important. Thanks for the honest comment.
Good tip, but your prints are horrible, the layer lines look awful, they are not consistent, you need to tune your printer
There is always room for improvement no question, I think you're mistaken when you say horrible, you either have very high standards or you're just trying to be a you know what.
A few notes on my settings, I always over extrude slightly, this is because my parts are meant to bear load, I do not use the fan, I print with 0.6mm or 0.8mm nozzle , I print fast. I use harsh lighting in my videos to show off imperfections and not cover them up.
Send me a photo and your tips for tuning your printer I'd be happy to take a look.
Why the hell would you need infill=35% for something that small? Infill =5% is PLENTY strong...I'm an architect.
I print structural parts meant to bear load. These are my standard settings to transfer loads well beyond anything that can be applied during their use. For better adhesion I print with the cooling fan turned down to 0-10%, top layers need good support to print correctly because of this and the infill helps a great deal.
As far as why I've used these settings... printing with these settings makes problems worse, and frankly I do not print anything for decoration, 5% infilly is insufficient for 99% of the prints I make.
I hope this answers your question.
Huh so less infill means quicker print. Well, whod've thunk it, glad u did a 7 minute video with an intro and everything to draw it out as mych as possible lol. You're welcome for the view
I have shortened the intro for future.
My videos aren't for everyone, there are a lot of people who can benefit from these small tweaks, maybe you don't, so don't watch them and have a nice life!
@@NeedItMakeIt i hope they do, and i hope your intro helps you. But wyy even use one?
I really dislike someone teasing me with info to begin with, as if casting the bait, and then a pointless intro as if they think they're some kind of professional conglomeration or something.
Maybe it's just me, but im just voicing my opinion. I hope you get rich and famous lol, but my advice is to be simplified, to the point, and things on screen to highlight what you're talking about, which i know you try to do already.
@@lukexr125 Not everyone is driven by greed, it is easy to generalize look only for what you want to see. Have a great life, time to move on.
@@NeedItMakeIt then whats with the intro and the drawn out information delivery? If not to capitalise then is it just superficial? Make it clean and concise if you aim to perfect your informativity
@@NeedItMakeIt i mean, i could listen to your videos all day, but when your title makes me want to know the secret you elude to and it ends up not being a secret, just something the "majority" dont think to do, then the intro, the ads, the delivery method, just seems like you're trying to capitalise more than anything. Unless you just like the self appeal.
I dislike clickbait and drawn out information, ergo the criticism. Sorry if it hurts. Prefer my recommended to be full of high density, to the point information and facts, opposed to one piece of info spread over multiple minutes. Surely we all do when clicking on a baity title? We just wana know now, that's the danger of clickbait
Walls look ugly, you need some tuneing man...
If a man says the walls are ugly, the walls are ugly.
I've made quite a few changes since that video, the results are much better. I'll have a video coming out in a week + about getting the perfect seam with Bowden, as long as I get success.
@@NeedItMakeIt :D thats a good joke xD appreciate it! :D
I hoped you could have tuned is since ;)
I hade a bit similar issue, -uneven wall layers, and it came out its a Cura bug at 1.2 mm walls and 0.4mm nozzle thickness. Setting it to 0.395 did wonders 😄
lmao waste of money