Many people have asked to compare GCodes side by side. I did it while creating the video but couldn’t find anything obvious that creates such a time saving. So I didn’t show it.
Yeah, it’s a bunch of subtle things if you look through the GitHub commit logs for Cura and CuraEngine … still … if it works on our non-ultimakers, bring it on! 🤓
@@TheMajenos5 I was just about to suggest a video from Shane Goodwin … then I saw that you were already in conversation with him in the comments of that video. 😌 Hope you got it solved. This is anecdotal, at best, but I have a friend who bought a CR6 SE and, honestly, he hasn’t had a single issue with it since he swapped out the main board for a BigTreeTech and flashing it with the CR6SE community supported Marlin 2.x fork. I initially chastised him for “fixing something that wasn’t broken” (and I am certainly not advocating the “upgrading for the sake of upgrading” behaviour we often see in this hobby, but in his case … it’s worked out great, and he’s been churning out great quality prints off that thing for the past ~8 months. 🤷🏻♂️
The title made me think you were talking about a trick that I often use in Cura: Turn everything off except infill. Turn perimeters to 0 and then add however many perimeters you want to Extra Infill Wall Count instead. This eliminates a pile of travels and retractions and makes a print much faster. If you just need a functional part, it often works out just fine.
Beauregard Slim - I tried what you describe and it says 1 Hr 49 minutes so I’m not understanding how that saves anything. No walls, no skin walls, 2 Extra Infill walls, 100% infill.
when you select 100% infill you can see at each layer that the infill is now yellow (not orange) it actually becomes a top/bottom and uses the much slower speed of top/bottom instead of infill, to bypass this you can use 99% infill, you'll see then that the infill is orange like normal and uses the infill speed
I dont understand. I just rewatched video twice. At 100% his infill is orange. Not yellow. I'm probably blind, but can you give some timestamps what you are referring to ???😕
This video inspired me to investigate, and I think I figured out what's going on and how to easily get this benefit on older versions of Cura. I'm using an Ender 3 V2. If you set infill to 100%, Cura converts every infill layer to a top/bottom skin so it ignores your selected infill pattern, and prints the Lines pattern at top/bottom speed which is slow. The workaround is to set infill to Lines (or ZigZag) at 99%, and then if you're worried about the tiny bit of extra line spacing, you can set infill extrusion rate to ~101% to compensate. That cuts the print time down to roughly what I'm seeing with the Extra Fast setting, and the preview looks the same. In real-world use, I find that Cubic 60% has been easily strong enough for anything I've needed to do so far, especially for compression. I printed a PETG test block with this infill, and could not dent it in my 6" vise.
This trick also work for lower infill prints ! I did a 10 percent infill for a board game insert. Went from 9h30 print to 4h50. No stringing, no mods and stock nozzle. Thank you so much.
My prefered way to speed up 100% infill parts, is to just use really really high wall thickness, and set the infill to 0. That way the printer moves more fluidly (along the path of the part wall, instead of the constant ziging and zaging, which is slow as it has to change direction constantly). The estimated print time cura gives you is usually off, my method is usually quicker than the predicted time. I probably wont use the crazy accel settings shown in the video as I prefer to have less risky prints that are slightly slower, than waste time reprinting because of shifting or other issues.
My bet is that it works by increasing line width. When it comes down to it, this profile still needs to extrude a certain volume of plastic to complete the part, and if it's not moving the print head way faster or increasing layer height, the only way to get more plastic out in the same amount of time is increasing line width. I've actually experimented with this in Prusaslicer quite successfully. For extra fast printing I set line width to between 0.6 and 0.8-mm on a 0.4-mm nozzle with 0.3-mm layer heights, and then at 60-mm/s you get a volumetric flow between 10 and 13-mm^3/s. For an E3D v6, that's about as fast as the printer can physically melt the plastic. The thicker lines also mean the printer needs to make fewer passes over the same area. In Prusaslicer you can also set a volumetric flow rate limit, so I'll set things up like above, set print speed to something really high, like maybe 100-mm/s, then limit volumetric flow to maybe 10-mm^3/s. This basically assures that the printer is always putting down as much material as possible at any given time, which gets you pretty fast prints. The benefit is, of course, most pronounced at higher infills, but it speeds up normal prints too.
yes, but dont limit only with volumetric flow and a high speed. Otherwise your Inner Perimeters and Infill will be printed at lets say 60mm/s. But your outer Perimeters, which shouldnt be ~0,7mm but more 0,4 to 0,5mm for quality, overhangs and stuff will be printed at around 90 to 100mm/s. This would give bad outer walls and corner Bulging on most printers so I'd leave the outer Perimeters always on a speed your machine can handle easily, mostly 20 to 50 Side Note: Wider Line Widths are giving so much more layer adhesion! with 0,7 to 0,8 on a 0,4mm nozzle you can push layer adhesion on some PLA and PETG to more than 80%, I did some mechanical testing in my university
It's not that complicated. I just checked it out; The Snapmaker profiles simply don't half the print speed parameters for the walls and ceilings. Traditionally, Cura only prints the requested speed for the infill. Everything else prints at half that speed.
@@pturcanu 80% of the strength in XY direction. Basically you print lying and upright samples and do tensile testing and the lying (XY) samples are your reference, the upright samples are for layer adhesion. CNCKitchen has some good videos here on youtube where he also compares layer adhesion and stuff, he never tried out line width as far as I know
I really appreciate your time making these videos, I’ve come to rely on them for making my printing experience more fruitful. This one is especially useful. Thank you 🙏🏻
This is happening because there's hidden settings in cura for acceleration limit. There's a plugin in the market you can download which shows them. It's set to default 500.
This is a game changer! Thanks for sharing this. I just tried it on my Voxelab Aquila. I printed some valve knobs on my usual profile that took 1h10m each at 10% infill with a .2mm layer height and 60mm/s print speed. I printed the same knob on this profile at 100% infill with the .28 layer height and 50mm/s and it took 35 MINUTES!! Cura tells me even at .28mm with my normal profile it would be an hour, so this has cut my print time by nearly half. I'm using this going forward unless it's something intricate and has small details.
Running the same thing. I found that if I cut my walls down from 2 to 1 (depending on what youre printing, I have 9 separate nested parts). It saved me an additional 30 mins. So my print time is under half of what it used to be. I'm in awe, just watching the Aquila whip around. Waiting for a print to finish to see if the parts will be durable enough. Also have a bridge so I'm curious to see if I'll need to really slow it down or not. It's nut to watch tho, regardless.
An easy way of achieving the same thing is to set the wall thickness to something stupidly high, so the entire model is printed as if it was a wall. This makes the lines follow the pattern of the outer wall, which is usually longer and sweeping which means less direction changes = less accell and decell = less time printing during those slower speeds. Compared to the 100% infill, which is very zig zaggy which means lots of direction changes = lots accell and decell needed = more time spent printing during those slower movements
Maybe it's not suitable for your audience, but I was hoping you'd dig into WHY the two gcodes achieve such different results. Is it taking a different path? Is it using a different line width or flow rate so it doesn't need so many zigzags?
I've had a quick look into this. Used a calibration cube and sliced it on my own printer's profile and the S3 profile after changing that printer to the same nozzle. Used .2mm layer height on both and indeed the S3 is way quicker (2x/3x). I started to align the settings to be the same as the S3 one, and what struck me was that when I selected 100% infill, it doesn't actually print "infill", but just makes the top layer 999999. It results in the same thing, except that it doesn't print at infill speeds. Changing this manually already sped the print up massively. Then aligning the speed settings also helped, especially the jerk settings (careful with these). When I had all the settings aligned, there was only 10 minutes difference (36 min for S3 and 46 min for my own printer) between the two, which isn't a lot, but they are at the moment still unexplained. I wonder What would happen if I print both and compare actual print time. I suspect they will be very close, if not the same. I have a feeling that Cura is more catered to these printers and knows how long certain tasks take (for instance waiting for bed/tool to get to temperature) and adds a bit extra for other printers to be on the safe side.
For this part in specific I would suggest using concentric patterns for both to and bottom layers and infill. It will allow you to greatly reduce the added width of the ring because when you print it with those patterns, all the forces that are applied to the part when you tighten it around a tube will be pulling in the direction of the lines. I bet it could do with a total of 8 walls (including the "walls" generated by the infill pattern).
the faster one @ 5:44 looks like it has arcwelder applied to it , a little smoother overall. less data to process, maybe faster. you could try printing with 0% infill and a wall thickness so big, it fills the whole part
The S5 is a dual extruder printer the "Not Overridden" refers to the ability to print with the other extruder on that feature. If for some reason you wanted to print the walls with one color (in the first extruder) and the infill with another color (in the second extruder) you can override the default extruder with the other extruder. I use it to make wear indicator pads, when the walls are worn away and the second color on the inside is exposed it is time to replace the pad. Love your videos Chuck! Keep it up!
For your part in particular, i'snt it better to have like just perimeters and no infill? When i print circular stuff (bushes, collers, etc) i always go all perimeter (set 20 perimeters or so). It is much more plastic extrude per time if it goes continuous circular sweeps than the angled infill. Also it's more resistant in tension on the direction of the perimeter. And since it's a collar, it will be much better for this task as it's all tension around the pole. In my experience it also saves a whole lot of time compared to few perimeter and more infill (especially 100%)
I have an E3V2. All metal extruder, all metal hotend. I was initially able to cut my print times in half just by setting most of the speed settings to 150 mm/s, and not even touching whatever the default acceleration is for Cura's profile. I'm doing this with Jyers firmware. Which I should add has an acceleration limit built into the firmware. I don't know if Merlin does. I've been trying to figure out where to mod the firmware but haven't found it yet. If it does have a firmware limit it won't matter what you set the acceleration to in Cura.
Optimizing your acceleration and final speed helps a lot! I use 4000mm/s² on X and 3300mm/s² on Y at 300mm/s on my Ender 5 Pro and don't even get layershifts in 24h prints. Only modifications are dual 5015mm part cooling, a full metal hotend and a CHT nozzle in .4mm. Edit: Forgot to mention that I also flashed the board, it's no longer stock firmware. If there's any limit in firmware, it seems to be not active in this one or at least above 6000mm/s².
How did you get around the firmware acceleration limit on Merlin? Does it have one? Jyers has limit of 1,000 acceleration I believe. I have to check again when I get home. I've been looking in the firmware for somewhere to increase it and haven't found it yet.
@@dangerous8333 Oh, yes, I also flashed a custom Marlin. I'm not sure if there's a limit present, but while testing the Motor did nothing but skip steps at 6000mm/s² on Y, so I think there's really no limit.
@@ChevTecGroup It mainly works due to the CHT nozzle, it gets basically the same flow characteristics as a vulcano hotend due to a larger inner surface area. This transfers heat better into the filament, so it melts quicker and more thuroughly. For .32mm layer heights I need to slow down to 200mm/s so it doesn't underextrude.
the first one i noticed you had grid infill which tends to slice slow for me (the fast one was using zig zag pattern which could maybe explain some time difference). ive been using the lines pattern for 100% infill for a while now and it works great structurally and print time wise and gyroidal for everything else
I tried it on my Ender-3 (changing the profiles like you did) and it worked. But it felt like the printer was going to shake itself to pieces. I think my printer will last longer if I just have more patience :) Thanks again Chuck.
Nice trick. It would be interesting to figure out what's actually different in the profiles. It looks like the hole for the nut is too small though. Instead of loading a flat surface, it loads the sides and levers the layers apart. If you tweak this aspect of the design, the lower infill part may still work adequately.
99% agree with this. ive had similar problems with designs in the past. also would need to have enough walls to make the skin adequately thick enough to withstand the crushing.
This is, without exaggeration or hyperbole, the most awesome development to come out in 3D printing since I got in to the hobby 2 years ago! I just finished printing an object on my Ender 3 V2 that normally takes about 21 hours, and it finished in just over 10 hours and I can't see any difference in the print, whatsoever! Truly awesome, Chep...thanks for bringing it to our attention...and thanks to Ultimaker for making it happen.
You can get rid of stringing by having it in combing mode so the nozzle doesn't leave the model. Also you can increase the infil speed to like 90 (ive even done 120) since it doesnt matter for quality and keep the outer wall speed 60 or 50 for the quality. Also I think selecting optimize print order helps speed up the print. If you hit slice then click the little "i" for info it will tell you what's taking up the most time and you can mess with those settings specifically. Also great video as always
@@FilamentFriday Idk if every printer will be as fast as using such feature but there is a bug that affects every printer that isn't an Ultimaker using 100% infil.
@@Ebani Potato-Potatoe, Bug - Hack, Tomato - Tomatoe. After the initial report, Ultimaker will claim it to be whatever they want....a "bug"?!? Mmmmkay. Mod, hack, workaround, feature, bug or backdoor. I am still impressed on how my Voxelab Aquila runs through these type of prints so fast and without any stringing effect. 😉
In the Cura Preview you can show the Speed and Flow as colors. You could have used that to show us the difference between the Ultimaker and the standard Ender3 profile.
Sir I would like to say Thank You so much for this video! I'm new to 3D Printing. Just recently designed a Smallrig Camera cage for my Canon 5D Mark iii DSLR that was going to take roughly 21 hrs and you've just cut my print time down to 7hrs!!! You are a God Send good sir. Please continue to post such great content!
Thanks for posting this, never even thought of doing something like this till now. I did get a working profile for my ender 3 after a little adjusting, printed a decent benchy in 1 hr. 3 min. Great videos keep up the good work and thank you.
I'm a little late to this video but one thing which you could do for this part is to only change the area around the nut / bolt to 100% infill. In Cura you can use this by defining a support blocker region over the nut / bolt, then change the support blocker to "modify settings for overlaps", click "select settings" and enable "infill density", "infill pattern", "connect infill lines" and "alternate extra wall". You can then change the pattern to lines, the density to 100%. You'll want to disable "connect infill lines" and enabled "alternate extra wall" to ensure that the two infill regions touch each other. You'll also want to make sure that you select "infill mesh only" from the dropdown. (I've never actually tried these print settings, only previewed them from within Cura)
@@thatguy5639 With "infill mesh only" it doesn't break the walls at all, they remain continuous. The infill is indeed broken, but it's no different to where your infill touch the regular walls. That isn't the point of these changes though - The point is to create a region around the bolt which is crush-proof. The strength of the junction will be just fine if your part is designed appropriately. If you need more strength when doing this, add more walls.
technically, after many tests i have done in my engineering lab, more walls yields better strength. We should try 50% infill and more walls just to see. Even a 25% infill with more walls and see how it works. i would be curious:) thanks for your videos.
Agree. I think it was CNC kitchen that did some testing. Short of it all was 3-4 perimeters and 50% gyroid infill was the best mix for strength. Anything more was just waste of material and longer print times for very marginal gain in strength.
@@toddzino58 yes, it was cnc kitchen as well that has done tests. I usually use 3 walls and 12% infill and its pretty dang good. 4 walls and 12% is superb for my applications haha
CHEP, the missing extra secret sauce is in the infill speed under "materials" for the Ultra fast settings, double the infill speed compared to the wall speed. the stringing came from the combing settings, change it to "within infill"
one thing i have noticed on the rare instances i use cura. The print times are significantly longer than prusa slicer with similar settings. The quality is usually lower with cura as well. cura also has way to many settings and many are redundant. Plus the hidden settings you cant see.
At 100% infill printing time is only a matter of how much material you can push through your hotend per second. So there are three easy possibilities how to minimize your printing time without effecting the part quality: 1. Use a wider layer line width for everything except the outer perimeter. I'd reccomend printing the outer perimeter first. You can go up to 200% nozzle width, whereas I'd reccomend using 150-170%. 2. Combine your Infill every other layer (infill layer thickness twice the value of the normal layer height). That will double the infill line height and reduce the infill printing time by 50%. 3. Optimize your infill and inner perimeter printing speed by raising it up to the limit where your extruder starts missing steps and then reduce the printing speed by 20%. You can't reach that point? Choose a higher layer height and try again. If this isn't an option for keeping the print quality high, increase your accerelations until the printer misses steps in X and Y (try to find every limit individually). Lower the value by 20% and try again. And that's your 100%-Infill-SpeedPrinting setup. Good luck, have fun. P.S.: Still not fast enough? Upgrade to a BondTech CHT-Nozzle or a Volcano Hotend. P.P.S.: Still not fast enough? Upgrade to an E3D Hemera or BondTech LGX extruder with V6 Hotend and BondTech CHT. P.P.P.S. Still not fast enough? Bro, it's 3D-printing... That's not supposed to be super fast :D
Sounds like my experience when migrating from *Prusa* to *Voron* ( changing the Printer _and_ the Software - PrusaSlicer to SuperSlicer ) Prusa obviously has all their printer and filament curated ( but highly conservative ) profiles you'll not be finding for a Voron, so I had to actually learn what to do in the Slicer to get things up and running for those speeds I built the Voron for ( technically I wanted the increased build volume, and the increased speed was just a _very_ welcomed bonus )... Lots of things play into how fast one can print with a printer and Bottlenecks can come from literally anywhere in the system hindering your speed progress. The most obvious ones being the Speed one followed by Acceleration and Jerk with the latter having a surprisingly large impact despite the small numbers you'll be dealing with but also things like Layer Time for cooling will play a role in artificially slowing down a print like a row of stop lights constantly telling your 400km/h car to slow down at every intersection ( layer change ). That being said though I'd kinda argue that you could have gotten away with just pumping up the perimeter count to like 3-4 and _maybe_ increasing the infill to say 50-70%. No reason to go past even just 80% unless you plan to remelt a part in a salt casting where you absolutely cannot have a void in your part 😏
I would argue use PETG, up the heat, do 4 to 6 walls...no infill, no fan. and do like 80mms....35mins most likely. I would do a outerwall of 55mms and inner wall of 100mms
Thanks for the trick, it turn my 4+ hours 20% infill functional parts to just 2 hours with 50% infill! All other speed setting are the same on my Ender 5 ! Sure it is not look as great as slow way, but as a functional parts, looks is the last thing to consider :)
Hi, Chuck! I tried the profile hack and the issue left to solve is the layer adhesion and extrusion flow. From a 4h57m printing time, using the standard profile, to 3h12m using the hack. The "make overhangs printable" option is also nice. I'm trying the hacked profile on a Two Trees Bluer. Thanks for these nice tips and tricks.
If you analyze a specific layer then you should be able to see the difference, if any except the speeds. Using 99% infill instead of 100% can often save time too.
Just to let you know this is the best profile that I found so far with a 100% infill. The appearance is great and the pieces are strong even when I set to a .32mm profile. I also use the CC .6 mm setting and it is working great, Did I mention that it is fast. Also to let you know that I am printing your profile in a Ender 3 pro so it is Working great and saving me some print time. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant! I am always put off by printing 100% infill bar a few exceptions because of the print time. Will give this a go with one of my structural models I have
I think I see the issue. Notice that when you set infill to 100% on your Ender profile, the infill was shown in yellow, but when you selected ultra fast for the ultimaker, it was in orange. Yellow is top/bottom layers, and orange is infill. Seems like cura treated the infill as top/bottom layers on the Ender profile, and top/bottom lines get printed more slowly than infill lines.
Best profile ever made a few tweeks to make it work with an ender5 plus but I took a 7.5 day print and made it a 3.2 day print so sweet wish this is how fast printers were stock would make projects actually go fast
@@umiturgutaswwsa if your using cura I copy and pasted the marlin from the e5 to the e3 profile and made the e3 into an e5 profile in machine settings and proceeded to adjust quality settings to make it work with 20% infill better and added a few lines I’d have to get in a call with you to actually show you but I’m not sure how to do that but I’m just finishing a mando helmet in the next 2 mins and it is taking under 2 days to print
1:52 When you hover your mouse over the 'not overridden" selection it tells you in the bubble that this is an option for multi head extrusion printers that have 2 or more feeds.
Thanks for the video and the idea. But, in my opinion, this method is more useful with big solid things. I was checking your method with m/v Benchy, with 100% infill and layer 0.2 mm, the difference is 1:33 vs 1:40, 7 minutes only. In any case, thanks for the idea
Thank you for this one and all other videos aswell. I'm new to 3d printing and your videos really speed up my learning curve and the quality of the prints. I'm using vanced, so I cannot comment & like, but I had singed in to original youtube app to say thanks and subscribe.
@@jonathansolace1179 set it up exactly like how CHEP shows it in the video. Pause video as needed. For some reason the settings on cura didn't show any of the acceleration settings like the video, but it printed fine. I tried slicing it with the standard settings for ender pro 3, it was going to take over 11hrs.
Usually when I need strong part while not wanting to go 100% infill, I set like 4-6 perimeters (0.4 nozzle), a stick in a grid or cubic infill at like 10-15%, works wonders, layers dont split and feels pretty solid.
Printed this file today on my Tronxy XY-2 Pro. I migrated all of the 0.28 Rough-Fast profile over to my Tronxy, but printed at the speeds which the machine is tuned for. At 100% infill, with all of the line/layer/wall settings from the Creality profiles, and the file printed in 38 minutes 8 seconds.
I have enough trouble getting a consistent print. Once I settle on a profile or 3 I don't want to go that deep. It was a cool video, and it shows there are still optimizations that can be done with existing hardware to make 3d printing more enjoyable and efficient. I hope this stuff becomes mainstream, and not just a hack from a specific printer.
Great info, hadn't downloaded the latest version until just now. I'm using an S5, and note that after just a cursory check, this new mode isn't available for all materials, which probably isn't a huge surprise. I tend to use PETG for most things these days, and it's not available for it. It does show up on PLA and Tough PLA, so your mileage may vary.
I printed a few items at 100mm/s on my Ender 3 Pro without any issues at 0.28mm and 0.2mm. Per the recommendations I saw online, I increased the temperature of the extruder to 215F instead of the usual 200C I use with Hatchbox PLA. I wouldn't do it with something intricate, but it worked well for some basic brackets and square objects.
why not print 0%infill but many or better say ALL wall. with all wall (or lets say infinitiv outer/inner wall) the printer moves in much more natural ways and doesnt has change direction that often. this also results in faster printing speed
I f i remember correctly if you use the circural infill pattern it's pretty much the same as "all wall". I use it quite often and the prints are very strong indeed.
This trick is pretty neat. I tried it on my ender 3 pro and it printed a file that normally takes 50 minutes at 100% infill in 25 minutes. However a few middle layers and some of the layers at the top shifted so the print quality was not great. Maybe if I decrease the acceleration of the printer I could improve the printing speed and not get shifting.
i thought is all about profiling settings, it only makes sense, the machine can withstand high speeds if moded properly, however if the speed of the software is slow... and clogged ul get long time printing. nice to see this tip really helpful, initially i thought is the SD card read/write speeds and i think a big part of the time consuming is that. but this is a huge difference compared to 2hrs its insane fast now.
Not Overridden refers to extruder choice overrides for multi-extruder setups. I only know about it because I use a modified SV02 as my PETG and transparent part machine and that has a dual head setup. I bet its doing the printing so much faster by removing the majority of the retracts.... if you calc it pefectly you can move the head around a whole layer without stopping once.
Now that I'm finally getting consistent first layers (thanks glue stick), I'm looking for ways to speed up prints. I'll have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing!
I began using a raft for my first 5 layers, I adjusted the raft distance outside the print from 15mm to 4mm for speed, but the raft is the WAY TO GO for getting more consistent prints. That, and a glass bed changed the game for me.
@@georgeparker8167 I've got an Ender 3 v2, which came with the glass bed. In spite of this, I had constant problems getting a good first layer to stick down. Using a glue stick and very slow first layer is helping me the most right now.
@@sgsax Are you using cura? If not I am not sure which programs have the raft option for adhesion but I would look that. you don't want glue on your bed, overtime that will be no bueno
@@georgeparker8167 I am using Cura and did experiment with rafts, and they helped a bit. I wash the glue off with soap and water between prints, so there's no buildup. Comes off completely clean every time.
I follow your path except I used the profile of the S5 printer and 20% infill. Using the same settings the profile of the S5 was 2 hrs 59 min and the profile using cr6se settings was 4 hrs 22 min a savings of 1 hrs 22 min well worth it. The nozzle jerks very fast and the supports print very fast. The print has not finished yet but it looks good up to now.
I have had good luck lately printing 60 on the anycubic x. I just had to go up on fillament thickness and max infil. It's not an hour off but it helps.
You were reading my mind. I only have an Ender 2 to work with and that's fine; I like it and most of the time it's enough printer for me. My go-to filament is FormFutura TitanX. I have some projects where I want to get the strength up substantially so just yesterday I started investigating how to properly go about that. This example should reduce my trial and error time and I am coincidentally staying at Cura 4.13 until version 5 comes out of beta, so good timing on that too.
Interesting. I wonder how it would compare to increasing the wall thickness until it printed solid and make sure the inner wall speed was pretty high. It would have less accelerations and decelerations.
Many people have asked to compare GCodes side by side. I did it while creating the video but couldn’t find anything obvious that creates such a time saving. So I didn’t show it.
Yeah, it’s a bunch of subtle things if you look through the GitHub commit logs for Cura and CuraEngine … still … if it works on our non-ultimakers, bring it on! 🤓
cr6 se bed leveling problem s any help i have rainbows
@@TheMajenos5 I was just about to suggest a video from Shane Goodwin … then I saw that you were already in conversation with him in the comments of that video. 😌
Hope you got it solved.
This is anecdotal, at best, but I have a friend who bought a CR6 SE and, honestly, he hasn’t had a single issue with it since he swapped out the main board for a BigTreeTech and flashing it with the CR6SE community supported Marlin 2.x fork.
I initially chastised him for “fixing something that wasn’t broken” (and I am certainly not advocating the “upgrading for the sake of upgrading” behaviour we often see in this hobby, but in his case … it’s worked out great, and he’s been churning out great quality prints off that thing for the past ~8 months.
🤷🏻♂️
Can I use the ender 3 profile u made for my ender 3 s1
Yes
The title made me think you were talking about a trick that I often use in Cura: Turn everything off except infill. Turn perimeters to 0 and then add however many perimeters you want to Extra Infill Wall Count instead. This eliminates a pile of travels and retractions and makes a print much faster. If you just need a functional part, it often works out just fine.
Beauregard Slim - I tried what you describe and it says 1 Hr 49 minutes so I’m not understanding how that saves anything. No walls, no skin walls, 2 Extra Infill walls, 100% infill.
when you select 100% infill you can see at each layer that the infill is now yellow (not orange) it actually becomes a top/bottom and uses the much slower speed of top/bottom instead of infill, to bypass this you can use 99% infill, you'll see then that the infill is orange like normal and uses the infill speed
I think you're onto something!
I dont understand. I just rewatched video twice. At 100% his infill is orange. Not yellow. I'm probably blind, but can you give some timestamps what you are referring to ???😕
@@ubqtous go to 1;16
Good tip!
I like your funny words magic man
This video inspired me to investigate, and I think I figured out what's going on and how to easily get this benefit on older versions of Cura. I'm using an Ender 3 V2. If you set infill to 100%, Cura converts every infill layer to a top/bottom skin so it ignores your selected infill pattern, and prints the Lines pattern at top/bottom speed which is slow. The workaround is to set infill to Lines (or ZigZag) at 99%, and then if you're worried about the tiny bit of extra line spacing, you can set infill extrusion rate to ~101% to compensate. That cuts the print time down to roughly what I'm seeing with the Extra Fast setting, and the preview looks the same.
In real-world use, I find that Cubic 60% has been easily strong enough for anything I've needed to do so far, especially for compression. I printed a PETG test block with this infill, and could not dent it in my 6" vise.
This trick also work for lower infill prints ! I did a 10 percent infill for a board game insert. Went from 9h30 print to 4h50. No stringing, no mods and stock nozzle. Thank you so much.
My prefered way to speed up 100% infill parts, is to just use really really high wall thickness, and set the infill to 0. That way the printer moves more fluidly (along the path of the part wall, instead of the constant ziging and zaging, which is slow as it has to change direction constantly). The estimated print time cura gives you is usually off, my method is usually quicker than the predicted time. I probably wont use the crazy accel settings shown in the video as I prefer to have less risky prints that are slightly slower, than waste time reprinting because of shifting or other issues.
My bet is that it works by increasing line width. When it comes down to it, this profile still needs to extrude a certain volume of plastic to complete the part, and if it's not moving the print head way faster or increasing layer height, the only way to get more plastic out in the same amount of time is increasing line width.
I've actually experimented with this in Prusaslicer quite successfully. For extra fast printing I set line width to between 0.6 and 0.8-mm on a 0.4-mm nozzle with 0.3-mm layer heights, and then at 60-mm/s you get a volumetric flow between 10 and 13-mm^3/s. For an E3D v6, that's about as fast as the printer can physically melt the plastic. The thicker lines also mean the printer needs to make fewer passes over the same area. In Prusaslicer you can also set a volumetric flow rate limit, so I'll set things up like above, set print speed to something really high, like maybe 100-mm/s, then limit volumetric flow to maybe 10-mm^3/s. This basically assures that the printer is always putting down as much material as possible at any given time, which gets you pretty fast prints. The benefit is, of course, most pronounced at higher infills, but it speeds up normal prints too.
Makes sense. Thanks for explaining!
yes, but dont limit only with volumetric flow and a high speed. Otherwise your Inner Perimeters and Infill will be printed at lets say 60mm/s. But your outer Perimeters, which shouldnt be ~0,7mm but more 0,4 to 0,5mm for quality, overhangs and stuff will be printed at around 90 to 100mm/s. This would give bad outer walls and corner Bulging on most printers so I'd leave the outer Perimeters always on a speed your machine can handle easily, mostly 20 to 50
Side Note: Wider Line Widths are giving so much more layer adhesion! with 0,7 to 0,8 on a 0,4mm nozzle you can push layer adhesion on some PLA and PETG to more than 80%, I did some mechanical testing in my university
@@flixquadrat6337 What do you mean by 80% layer adhesion? 80% more strength, or is that a metric for actual adhesion?
It's not that complicated. I just checked it out; The Snapmaker profiles simply don't half the print speed parameters for the walls and ceilings.
Traditionally, Cura only prints the requested speed for the infill. Everything else prints at half that speed.
@@pturcanu 80% of the strength in XY direction. Basically you print lying and upright samples and do tensile testing and the lying (XY) samples are your reference, the upright samples are for layer adhesion. CNCKitchen has some good videos here on youtube where he also compares layer adhesion and stuff, he never tried out line width as far as I know
I really appreciate your time making these videos, I’ve come to rely on them for making my printing experience more fruitful. This one is especially useful. Thank you 🙏🏻
Your welcome.
Yeah 👍 thanks for all the videos 🙏
Thanks for the video sir. But the "magic" aspect is keeping me awake with curiosity. Any way to figure that out?
This is happening because there's hidden settings in cura for acceleration limit.
There's a plugin in the market you can download which shows them.
It's set to default 500.
This is a game changer! Thanks for sharing this. I just tried it on my Voxelab Aquila.
I printed some valve knobs on my usual profile that took 1h10m each at 10% infill with a .2mm layer height and 60mm/s print speed. I printed the same knob on this profile at 100% infill with the .28 layer height and 50mm/s and it took 35 MINUTES!!
Cura tells me even at .28mm with my normal profile it would be an hour, so this has cut my print time by nearly half. I'm using this going forward unless it's something intricate and has small details.
Running the same thing. I found that if I cut my walls down from 2 to 1 (depending on what youre printing, I have 9 separate nested parts). It saved me an additional 30 mins. So my print time is under half of what it used to be. I'm in awe, just watching the Aquila whip around. Waiting for a print to finish to see if the parts will be durable enough. Also have a bridge so I'm curious to see if I'll need to really slow it down or not. It's nut to watch tho, regardless.
Exactly why I shared this. It’s not to produce the prettiest prints but a great way to get functional prints faster.
Should had read the comments because I just asked about the Aquila, lol, thanks...
I have tried this hack on my Ender 3 with marlin 1.9 using petg - and it took almost half the time - thank you for this material
An easy way of achieving the same thing is to set the wall thickness to something stupidly high, so the entire model is printed as if it was a wall. This makes the lines follow the pattern of the outer wall, which is usually longer and sweeping which means less direction changes = less accell and decell = less time printing during those slower speeds. Compared to the 100% infill, which is very zig zaggy which means lots of direction changes = lots accell and decell needed = more time spent printing during those slower movements
I think you get the same result if you change infill to 100% and set it to Concentric mode.
Nice thanks, I'll have to try it as sometimes my method does actually increase print times on certain models.@@ItsBoyRed
Maybe it's not suitable for your audience, but I was hoping you'd dig into WHY the two gcodes achieve such different results. Is it taking a different path? Is it using a different line width or flow rate so it doesn't need so many zigzags?
I've had a quick look into this. Used a calibration cube and sliced it on my own printer's profile and the S3 profile after changing that printer to the same nozzle. Used .2mm layer height on both and indeed the S3 is way quicker (2x/3x). I started to align the settings to be the same as the S3 one, and what struck me was that when I selected 100% infill, it doesn't actually print "infill", but just makes the top layer 999999. It results in the same thing, except that it doesn't print at infill speeds. Changing this manually already sped the print up massively. Then aligning the speed settings also helped, especially the jerk settings (careful with these). When I had all the settings aligned, there was only 10 minutes difference (36 min for S3 and 46 min for my own printer) between the two, which isn't a lot, but they are at the moment still unexplained. I wonder What would happen if I print both and compare actual print time. I suspect they will be very close, if not the same. I have a feeling that Cura is more catered to these printers and knows how long certain tasks take (for instance waiting for bed/tool to get to temperature) and adds a bit extra for other printers to be on the safe side.
I only found your channel a few weeks ago, but man I really look forward to Filament Friday!
For this part in specific I would suggest using concentric patterns for both to and bottom layers and infill. It will allow you to greatly reduce the added width of the ring because when you print it with those patterns, all the forces that are applied to the part when you tighten it around a tube will be pulling in the direction of the lines. I bet it could do with a total of 8 walls (including the "walls" generated by the infill pattern).
the faster one @ 5:44 looks like it has arcwelder applied to it , a little smoother overall. less data to process, maybe faster.
you could try printing with 0% infill and a wall thickness so big, it fills the whole part
infil linewidth and printing infill every second layer (for layers below .2mm) are good things to play with aswell when it comes to speed.
The S5 is a dual extruder printer the "Not Overridden" refers to the ability to print with the other extruder on that feature. If for some reason you wanted to print the walls with one color (in the first extruder) and the infill with another color (in the second extruder) you can override the default extruder with the other extruder. I use it to make wear indicator pads, when the walls are worn away and the second color on the inside is exposed it is time to replace the pad. Love your videos Chuck! Keep it up!
Thanks. That explains it.
Hey CHEP how can I get a hold of you personally???
Patreon
@@FilamentFriday How do I find you on there
For your part in particular, i'snt it better to have like just perimeters and no infill?
When i print circular stuff (bushes, collers, etc) i always go all perimeter (set 20 perimeters or so). It is much more plastic extrude per time if it goes continuous circular sweeps than the angled infill. Also it's more resistant in tension on the direction of the perimeter. And since it's a collar, it will be much better for this task as it's all tension around the pole.
In my experience it also saves a whole lot of time compared to few perimeter and more infill (especially 100%)
Going to give it a go with my Ender 3 V2 tomorrow and see what kind of results we get.
Keep us updated
Commenting to keep an eye on your results. I've an Ender 3v2 also.
I'll be very curious how this goes for you. Keep us updated!
I have an E3V2. All metal extruder, all metal hotend. I was initially able to cut my print times in half just by setting most of the speed settings to 150 mm/s, and not even touching whatever the default acceleration is for Cura's profile.
I'm doing this with Jyers firmware. Which I should add has an acceleration limit built into the firmware. I don't know if Merlin does. I've been trying to figure out where to mod the firmware but haven't found it yet. If it does have a firmware limit it won't matter what you set the acceleration to in Cura.
Also have a Ender 3v2 and would love to know if this works keep us updated
Optimizing your acceleration and final speed helps a lot! I use 4000mm/s² on X and 3300mm/s² on Y at 300mm/s on my Ender 5 Pro and don't even get layershifts in 24h prints. Only modifications are dual 5015mm part cooling, a full metal hotend and a CHT nozzle in .4mm.
Edit: Forgot to mention that I also flashed the board, it's no longer stock firmware. If there's any limit in firmware, it seems to be not active in this one or at least above 6000mm/s².
300mm/s is crazy. I've never went above 100, but I like to hear about this!
How did you get around the firmware acceleration limit on Merlin? Does it have one? Jyers has limit of 1,000 acceleration I believe. I have to check again when I get home.
I've been looking in the firmware for somewhere to increase it and haven't found it yet.
@@dangerous8333 Oh, yes, I also flashed a custom Marlin. I'm not sure if there's a limit present, but while testing the Motor did nothing but skip steps at 6000mm/s² on Y, so I think there's really no limit.
@@ChevTecGroup It mainly works due to the CHT nozzle, it gets basically the same flow characteristics as a vulcano hotend due to a larger inner surface area. This transfers heat better into the filament, so it melts quicker and more thuroughly. For .32mm layer heights I need to slow down to 200mm/s so it doesn't underextrude.
the first one i noticed you had grid infill which tends to slice slow for me (the fast one was using zig zag pattern which could maybe explain some time difference). ive been using the lines pattern for 100% infill for a while now and it works great structurally and print time wise and gyroidal for everything else
Try to look under info Icon, there you will find TIME ESTIMATION list and get more info about where the time is saving.
I've Just started a long project on my ender 3 and this profile will save me several days of waiting. Thank you!
Just tried out these settings with my Ender 3 Pro. Worked beautifully, no stringing. Thank you for this and all your informative videos!
Thanks for digging in in the Ender 2 Pro capabilities!! 👋
I tried it on my Ender-3 (changing the profiles like you did) and it worked. But it felt like the printer was going to shake itself to pieces. I think my printer will last longer if I just have more patience :) Thanks again Chuck.
It defiantly lets you know what you got. I found that my belts were loose, and a lot of the chatter came from the filament spool overhead.
Finally found a complaint I was looking for. The print speed is faster than the traditional print speed and I'm afraid my printer will fall apart
Weight it with a cinder block!
@@goku445 ha ha😃
@@derekhawley9660 Really! It's a thing. I think CNC kitchen has a video about it saying it drastically improved quality.
I use a BIC lighter and get close (not too close) passes or hold it right above the thicker strings to pick or burn the strings right off. 🔥
Ender 3v2, petg, 240* nozzle, 75* bed, printed perfect. Oddly cutting infill from 100% to 20 only shaved off 15 minutes. Loving it. Thanks Chep.
Nice trick. It would be interesting to figure out what's actually different in the profiles. It looks like the hole for the nut is too small though. Instead of loading a flat surface, it loads the sides and levers the layers apart. If you tweak this aspect of the design, the lower infill part may still work adequately.
99% agree with this. ive had similar problems with designs in the past. also would need to have enough walls to make the skin adequately thick enough to withstand the crushing.
Awesome! I’m going to have to try this out. Hopefully Cura makes it easier to use it on any printer in the future.
This is, without exaggeration or hyperbole, the most awesome development to come out in 3D printing since I got in to the hobby 2 years ago! I just finished printing an object on my Ender 3 V2 that normally takes about 21 hours, and it finished in just over 10 hours and I can't see any difference in the print, whatsoever!
Truly awesome, Chep...thanks for bringing it to our attention...and thanks to Ultimaker for making it happen.
I just tested this hack on my CR10s Pro V2 and WoW.. it's crazy fast. Thanks for the tip.
You can get rid of stringing by having it in combing mode so the nozzle doesn't leave the model. Also you can increase the infil speed to like 90 (ive even done 120) since it doesnt matter for quality and keep the outer wall speed 60 or 50 for the quality. Also I think selecting optimize print order helps speed up the print. If you hit slice then click the little "i" for info it will tell you what's taking up the most time and you can mess with those settings specifically.
Also great video as always
I've been sharing your findings, and applied this hack to my recent prints. I am amazed!!!
Not a hack, soon to be available on all printers bc it's a reported bug :D
It was a feature in 4.13 not a bug.
@@FilamentFriday Idk if every printer will be as fast as using such feature but there is a bug that affects every printer that isn't an Ultimaker using 100% infil.
@@Ebani Potato-Potatoe, Bug - Hack, Tomato - Tomatoe. After the initial report, Ultimaker will claim it to be whatever they want....a "bug"?!? Mmmmkay. Mod, hack, workaround, feature, bug or backdoor. I am still impressed on how my Voxelab Aquila runs through these type of prints so fast and without any stringing effect. 😉
In the Cura Preview you can show the Speed and Flow as colors. You could have used that to show us the difference between the Ultimaker and the standard Ender3 profile.
When I'm running mass production, I like to raise the layer height so that the machine does fewer passes.
Sir I would like to say Thank You so much for this video! I'm new to 3D Printing. Just recently designed a Smallrig Camera cage for my Canon 5D Mark iii DSLR that was going to take roughly 21 hrs and you've just cut my print time down to 7hrs!!! You are a God Send good sir. Please continue to post such great content!
Thanks. Subscribe. I’ve put out 22 videos since this one.
Thanks for posting this, never even thought of doing something like this till now. I did get a working profile for my ender 3 after a little adjusting, printed a decent benchy in 1 hr. 3 min. Great videos keep up the good work and thank you.
I'm a little late to this video but one thing which you could do for this part is to only change the area around the nut / bolt to 100% infill.
In Cura you can use this by defining a support blocker region over the nut / bolt, then change the support blocker to "modify settings for overlaps", click "select settings" and enable "infill density", "infill pattern", "connect infill lines" and "alternate extra wall".
You can then change the pattern to lines, the density to 100%. You'll want to disable "connect infill lines" and enabled "alternate extra wall" to ensure that the two infill regions touch each other. You'll also want to make sure that you select "infill mesh only" from the dropdown.
(I've never actually tried these print settings, only previewed them from within Cura)
Terrible idea. Doing so breaks lines of continuous extrusion at the edge of the support blocker, actually WEAKENING the part.
@@thatguy5639 With "infill mesh only" it doesn't break the walls at all, they remain continuous. The infill is indeed broken, but it's no different to where your infill touch the regular walls. That isn't the point of these changes though - The point is to create a region around the bolt which is crush-proof. The strength of the junction will be just fine if your part is designed appropriately. If you need more strength when doing this, add more walls.
technically, after many tests i have done in my engineering lab, more walls yields better strength. We should try 50% infill and more walls just to see. Even a 25% infill with more walls and see how it works. i would be curious:) thanks for your videos.
@@Kalvinjj facts. I agree with you. Infill for compression for sure
Agree. I think it was CNC kitchen that did some testing. Short of it all was 3-4 perimeters and 50% gyroid infill was the best mix for strength. Anything more was just waste of material and longer print times for very marginal gain in strength.
@@toddzino58 yes, it was cnc kitchen as well that has done tests. I usually use 3 walls and 12% infill and its pretty dang good. 4 walls and 12% is superb for my applications haha
OMG! This is the biggest improvement in 3D printing ever! Big thanks!!!!!!
CHEP, the missing extra secret sauce is in the infill speed under "materials" for the Ultra fast settings, double the infill speed compared to the wall speed. the stringing came from the combing settings, change it to "within infill"
Interesting!
I couldn't find "infill speed" under material (Ender 3 V2), is it only available on Ultramaker's profile?
@@erez_gur it's in speed I think.
@@goku445 ok, thanks!
one thing i have noticed on the rare instances i use cura. The print times are significantly longer than prusa slicer with similar settings. The quality is usually lower with cura as well.
cura also has way to many settings and many are redundant. Plus the hidden settings you cant see.
This works. No joke. Unbelievable speed difference.
At 100% infill printing time is only a matter of how much material you can push through your hotend per second. So there are three easy possibilities how to minimize your printing time without effecting the part quality:
1. Use a wider layer line width for everything except the outer perimeter. I'd reccomend printing the outer perimeter first. You can go up to 200% nozzle width, whereas I'd reccomend using 150-170%.
2. Combine your Infill every other layer (infill layer thickness twice the value of the normal layer height). That will double the infill line height and reduce the infill printing time by 50%.
3. Optimize your infill and inner perimeter printing speed by raising it up to the limit where your extruder starts missing steps and then reduce the printing speed by 20%. You can't reach that point? Choose a higher layer height and try again. If this isn't an option for keeping the print quality high, increase your accerelations until the printer misses steps in X and Y (try to find every limit individually). Lower the value by 20% and try again.
And that's your 100%-Infill-SpeedPrinting setup. Good luck, have fun.
P.S.: Still not fast enough? Upgrade to a BondTech CHT-Nozzle or a Volcano Hotend.
P.P.S.: Still not fast enough? Upgrade to an E3D Hemera or BondTech LGX extruder with V6 Hotend and BondTech CHT.
P.P.P.S. Still not fast enough? Bro, it's 3D-printing... That's not supposed to be super fast :D
Sounds like my experience when migrating from *Prusa* to *Voron* ( changing the Printer _and_ the Software - PrusaSlicer to SuperSlicer )
Prusa obviously has all their printer and filament curated ( but highly conservative ) profiles you'll not be finding for a Voron, so I had to actually learn what to do in the Slicer to get things up and running for those speeds I built the Voron for ( technically I wanted the increased build volume, and the increased speed was just a _very_ welcomed bonus )... Lots of things play into how fast one can print with a printer and Bottlenecks can come from literally anywhere in the system hindering your speed progress. The most obvious ones being the Speed one followed by Acceleration and Jerk with the latter having a surprisingly large impact despite the small numbers you'll be dealing with but also things like Layer Time for cooling will play a role in artificially slowing down a print like a row of stop lights constantly telling your 400km/h car to slow down at every intersection ( layer change ).
That being said though I'd kinda argue that you could have gotten away with just pumping up the perimeter count to like 3-4 and _maybe_ increasing the infill to say 50-70%. No reason to go past even just 80% unless you plan to remelt a part in a salt casting where you absolutely cannot have a void in your part 😏
I would argue use PETG, up the heat, do 4 to 6 walls...no infill, no fan. and do like 80mms....35mins most likely.
I would do a outerwall of 55mms and inner wall of 100mms
The printer's firmware has an acceleration cap. A custom firware is needed to run jerks and accels that fast.
Thanks for the trick, it turn my 4+ hours 20% infill functional parts to just 2 hours with 50% infill! All other speed setting are the same on my Ender 5 !
Sure it is not look as great as slow way, but as a functional parts, looks is the last thing to consider :)
Hi, Chuck!
I tried the profile hack and the issue left to solve is the layer adhesion and extrusion flow.
From a 4h57m printing time, using the standard profile, to 3h12m using the hack.
The "make overhangs printable" option is also nice.
I'm trying the hacked profile on a Two Trees Bluer.
Thanks for these nice tips and tricks.
The flow and adhesion issues were due to miscalibrated extruder e-steps.
I'm struggling a bit with the retraction.
If you analyze a specific layer then you should be able to see the difference, if any except the speeds. Using 99% infill instead of 100% can often save time too.
Just to let you know this is the best profile that I found so far with a 100% infill. The appearance is great and the pieces are strong even when I set to a .32mm profile. I also use the CC .6 mm setting and it is working great, Did I mention that it is fast. Also to let you know that I am printing your profile in a Ender 3 pro so it is Working great and saving me some print time. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant! I am always put off by printing 100% infill bar a few exceptions because of the print time. Will give this a go with one of my structural models I have
Fantastic and functional to boot! Loved the modding thought process. Gonna try modding my 3v2 for ultra speeds! Awesome as always!
I think I see the issue. Notice that when you set infill to 100% on your Ender profile, the infill was shown in yellow, but when you selected ultra fast for the ultimaker, it was in orange. Yellow is top/bottom layers, and orange is infill. Seems like cura treated the infill as top/bottom layers on the Ender profile, and top/bottom lines get printed more slowly than infill lines.
Thanks for the video, I got a lot from it, especially the tip of using a hot air gun to get rid of the fine stringing. Keep it going.
Thanks CHEP, love it!
I have the ender 2 pro and nowhere i have found great videos like these. Great job. Keep it up
Postman has just delivered my Ender 2 Pro so perfect timing to start exploring what I can do with it :)
Ender 3 V2 with CR Touch bed leveler - just added G29 - flawless! Thank you
With PrusaSlicer the print time is only 55min on standard 0.3 draft profile.
Best profile ever made a few tweeks to make it work with an ender5 plus but I took a 7.5 day print and made it a 3.2 day print so sweet wish this is how fast printers were stock would make projects actually go fast
ı have the same machine bro can you explain me the settings that i have to change
@@umiturgutaswwsa if your using cura I copy and pasted the marlin from the e5 to the e3 profile and made the e3 into an e5 profile in machine settings and proceeded to adjust quality settings to make it work with 20% infill better and added a few lines I’d have to get in a call with you to actually show you but I’m not sure how to do that but I’m just finishing a mando helmet in the next 2 mins and it is taking under 2 days to print
1:52 When you hover your mouse over the 'not overridden" selection it tells you in the bubble that this is an option for multi head extrusion printers that have 2 or more feeds.
Thanks for the video and the idea.
But, in my opinion, this method is more useful with big solid things.
I was checking your method with m/v Benchy, with 100% infill and layer 0.2 mm, the difference is 1:33 vs 1:40, 7 minutes only.
In any case, thanks for the idea
Will you be able to update your Ender3 profiles with this new information? I've been using your profiles for quite some time 👍
Thank you for this one and all other videos aswell. I'm new to 3d printing and your videos really speed up my learning curve and the quality of the prints.
I'm using vanced, so I cannot comment & like, but I had singed in to original youtube app to say thanks and subscribe.
I'm writing this reply using Vanced on Android. You just need to add your TH-cam account to it.
Thanks for video! Just tried on my Biqu B1 successfully!
This is awesome! I am trying a 4 hour print now (that would have been over 11hours using the standard Ender 3 Pro settings). Hopefully it prints well.
how did it go? I just got and Ender 5 Pro and have been trying it the last few days
@@KM-yw9vr it printed good. I didn't have any stringing. Might just be luck.
I just got the Ender 3 pro but thinking of returning because it talks a while to print any suggestions to upgrade around 200-350 price range ?
Use this profile. It’s not the printer.
@@jonathansolace1179 set it up exactly like how CHEP shows it in the video. Pause video as needed. For some reason the settings on cura didn't show any of the acceleration settings like the video, but it printed fine. I tried slicing it with the standard settings for ender pro 3, it was going to take over 11hrs.
Wow just tried on my Aquila and its SPEED now! thanks.
The infill ist printed at top and bottom speed for the ender profile, while the s5 prints it at infill speed
Usually when I need strong part while not wanting to go 100% infill, I set like 4-6 perimeters (0.4 nozzle), a stick in a grid or cubic infill at like 10-15%, works wonders, layers dont split and feels pretty solid.
Printed this file today on my Tronxy XY-2 Pro. I migrated all of the 0.28 Rough-Fast profile over to my Tronxy, but printed at the speeds which the machine is tuned for. At 100% infill, with all of the line/layer/wall settings from the Creality profiles, and the file printed in 38 minutes 8 seconds.
I have enough trouble getting a consistent print. Once I settle on a profile or 3 I don't want to go that deep. It was a cool video, and it shows there are still optimizations that can be done with existing hardware to make 3d printing more enjoyable and efficient. I hope this stuff becomes mainstream, and not just a hack from a specific printer.
It would be nice if there were a way to make the infill extrude only every second layer, and with wider lines.
Great info, hadn't downloaded the latest version until just now. I'm using an S5, and note that after just a cursory check, this new mode isn't available for all materials, which probably isn't a huge surprise. I tend to use PETG for most things these days, and it's not available for it. It does show up on PLA and Tough PLA, so your mileage may vary.
I printed a few items at 100mm/s on my Ender 3 Pro without any issues at 0.28mm and 0.2mm. Per the recommendations I saw online, I increased the temperature of the extruder to 215F instead of the usual 200C I use with Hatchbox PLA. I wouldn't do it with something intricate, but it worked well for some basic brackets and square objects.
Just did it for my Ender 5 pro. So far so good. Thx!
why not print 0%infill but many or better say ALL wall. with all wall (or lets say infinitiv outer/inner wall) the printer moves in much more natural ways and doesnt has change direction that often. this also results in faster printing speed
I f i remember correctly if you use the circural infill pattern it's pretty much the same as "all wall". I use it quite often and the prints are very strong indeed.
Weeeds334 - How much time did your method take on the part I shared and showed in the video?
This trick is pretty neat. I tried it on my ender 3 pro and it printed a file that normally takes 50 minutes at 100% infill in 25 minutes. However a few middle layers and some of the layers at the top shifted so the print quality was not great. Maybe if I decrease the acceleration of the printer I could improve the printing speed and not get shifting.
Looking forward to all your Cura profiles for the Ender 2 pro!, as you have for the Ender 3 family
as a ender owner this could be a game changer for me, as I mostly print utilitarian parts not pretty ones
this works up until now thanks for this ! i cut 1 hour and 25 to 45 mins ! :)
thank you, I wish I knew your video 2 years earlier, I would have saved lots of my time.
I'll likely fuss around with that Ender 3 profile later. Seems like it will be fairly useful.
By the way, thanks for uploading to Thangs.
You could maybe check how much time each part of the print takes if you hover over the I on that thing in the lower right corner
I did and it was inconclusive so I didn’t show it.
i thought is all about profiling settings, it only makes sense, the machine can withstand high speeds if moded properly, however if the speed of the software is slow... and clogged ul get long time printing. nice to see this tip really helpful, initially i thought is the SD card read/write speeds and i think a big part of the time consuming is that. but this is a huge difference compared to 2hrs its insane fast now.
Not Overridden refers to extruder choice overrides for multi-extruder setups. I only know about it because I use a modified SV02 as my PETG and transparent part machine and that has a dual head setup. I bet its doing the printing so much faster by removing the majority of the retracts.... if you calc it pefectly you can move the head around a whole layer without stopping once.
What does it do differently tho?
Nice hack. Always enjoy your videos. Very knowledgeable
Now that I'm finally getting consistent first layers (thanks glue stick), I'm looking for ways to speed up prints. I'll have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing!
I began using a raft for my first 5 layers, I adjusted the raft distance outside the print from 15mm to 4mm for speed, but the raft is the WAY TO GO for getting more consistent prints. That, and a glass bed changed the game for me.
@@georgeparker8167 I've got an Ender 3 v2, which came with the glass bed. In spite of this, I had constant problems getting a good first layer to stick down. Using a glue stick and very slow first layer is helping me the most right now.
@@sgsax Have you tried the raft option on the adhesion settings? I had major issues with my first layer for weeks, now I have zero issues.
@@sgsax Are you using cura? If not I am not sure which programs have the raft option for adhesion but I would look that. you don't want glue on your bed, overtime that will be no bueno
@@georgeparker8167 I am using Cura and did experiment with rafts, and they helped a bit. I wash the glue off with soap and water between prints, so there's no buildup. Comes off completely clean every time.
Get yourself some good tongs. Would be perfect for that stringing demo.
I follow your path except I used the profile of the S5 printer and 20% infill. Using the same settings the profile of the S5 was 2 hrs 59 min and the profile using cr6se settings was 4 hrs 22 min a savings of 1 hrs 22 min well worth it. The nozzle jerks very fast and the supports print very fast. The print has not finished yet but it looks good up to now.
I have had good luck lately printing 60 on the anycubic x. I just had to go up on fillament thickness and max infil. It's not an hour off but it helps.
thanks a lot as always chuck, I am trying it right now on an ender 3 max, I´ll told you later the results
Someone put CNC Kitchen on the case!
You are awesome Chep! Great vid!
You were reading my mind. I only have an Ender 2 to work with and that's fine; I like it and most of the time it's enough printer for me. My go-to filament is FormFutura TitanX. I have some projects where I want to get the strength up substantially so just yesterday I started investigating how to properly go about that. This example should reduce my trial and error time and I am coincidentally staying at Cura 4.13 until version 5 comes out of beta, so good timing on that too.
I wonder what print time PrusaSlicer would give? I stopped using Cura years ago
Interesting. I wonder how it would compare to increasing the wall thickness until it printed solid and make sure the inner wall speed was pretty high. It would have less accelerations and decelerations.
It’s about the same on this print but different on others. Also this modded profile works for less than 100% infill as well.