Managing the Carbon Ring: ctdshooting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Jason Stanley with www.ctdshootin... explains his process for managing hard carbon commonly known as the carbon ring.
For a written version on this process check out the blog found here:
www.ctdshootin...
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This was fantastic man. I’m one of those guys who ran out and bought a 7PRC only to learn that carbon ring buildup happens fast, maybe every 40 shots? I learned the hard way when I got a real heavy bolt lift, which I’ve learned is a pressure sign. I was unnerved by the videos using electric drills. This process feels much safer and more intuitive. I’m gonna connect my dots your way. Thanks again from a new subscriber.
Glad you found the video useful. Sorry for the resolution, rookie video making mistake. Lots of ways to skin a cat, but this one definitely works. Thanks for the positive comment
@@ctdshootingnever noticed. Guess I was distracted by the awesome explanation 👍
You got good reflexes...
Good catch
haha - Thanks.
@10:57 re the black that you thought was carbon from fouling, I always thought it was carbon from the steel itself. Kind of like when polishing metal the polish will turn black as the metal becomes shiny. I could be wrong.
Thanks for the comment. I'm pretty sure I said the black was NOT the carbon - or at least not all of it. Thanks
Yes that iosso works wonders. I was told by a guy at Bartlien barrels to not put the iosso on a nylon brush and then run it through the bore. He said to put it on a patch. I don’t know about a patch on brush. Seems to be the best thing to use on carbon ring though.
The undersized nylon brush makes it easier for me to apply the needed friction, but I do have to be careful not to "polish" the bore. The guys at Bartlein are great!!!
I use the the same process minus the bronze brush. Never been a fan of Iosso. I use BoreTech C-4 instead. good results with it and I don’t worry about over polishing surfaces. Probably not necessary, I mark my rods so that I know what is the maximum depth to push my rods. I end up with nice clean barrel with zero carbon.
Like you said, we all have our own process and use what works for you without damaging your barrel.
Thank you for he video, enjoyed it.
@@JackSmith-jj3bi Much appreciate the kind words. Bore Tec makes some good stuff. Good shooting.
That was a great video !
Thank you. Hope you were able to gain 1 or 2 things that you can add to your current procedure. Happy Holidays
Thanks for the information and l will apply it to my cleaning regime. It’s an area that is largely ignored.
You're welcome. Glad you can take a few pieces and add them to your process.
This video would really benefit from higher resolution so you can see what the borescope is showing on the screen
I appreciate the feedback. Yes, I need to learn and do a better job with the "electronic" side of TH-cam.
Might be able to splice in the video from the bore scope as opposed to taking a video of the bore scope screen. Maybe the resolution of the scope is better in person, but I'm a fan of the teslong bore scope. I was lucky enough to get one when they were first giving them away for free, but last time I checked they're still one of the most affordable ones and the resolution is great.
For a 6ppc I guess a .264 brush would work in the neck area
Good question. Should be close - all depends on the reamer. .262 is a very common neck dimension for the ppc but some are now moving up to 264ish to make neck turning a little easier. What I do know (from experience), do not get the bronze brush stuck in the neck area. I would start lower than what you think then gradually work your way up. Brushes are (relatively) cheap and they can always be used at some point.
Very informative video, thank you for sharing. By the way, what is that cover you have on the scope?
Thanks for the positive feedback. I really like and use Scope Shield scope covers. In the intro the cover is called the Action Express. In the main body of the video it is their regular Scope Shield scope cover. scopeshieldcover.com/ref/1/ Excellent products.
There is no better abrasive then toothpaste.
Gets it clean without any damage over the years and dirt cheap.
Bonus, you’re weapon smells minty fresh! 😘
What solvent are you using initially? Also what solvents are you using to remove the iosio bore paste? Thanks for this informative video. Have you ever tried using a penetrating oil to loosen the hard carbon ring and would this a problem? 😊
Thanks for the questions and positive feedback. I use Bore Tec initially. After paste, I use Butches Bore Shine or Bore Tec. I'm not sure how important the brand of solvent is after the bore paste, just that you get as much of it out as possible with some kind of solvent. I tried Kroil Oil for a season, but I did not notice any difference on the Hard Carbon. It didn't hurt anything, just not sure how much it helped. Hope this helps.
Stanley
Nice video except for the potato quality. A little hard to see what's going on in your borescope. From what I think I can see and what it looks like in your chamber, right after the neck where that second really short steep shoulder is. That part where the diameter has that sharp step down into the freebore area. It looks like there is still a carbon band/ring right there just before the second shoulder immediately after the neck. This is the area that I'm having basically no luck in one of my rifles in removing. I've tried Boretech Eliminator, C4, Wipeout Patchout, and Thorroclean (which has IOSSO paste in the solution). I've tried nylon brushes, bronze brushes, patches wrapped around both nylon and bronze brushes. Literally NOTHING I do will get this carbon ring out. Short of using a reamer to hand turn and cut that out (which I don't have) Any suggestions on what else can be tried to get this ring out?
Sorry for the delayed response. Yea, I am fixing the resolution. My bad.
In terms of the borescope - the barrel in the video was pretty clean, but because the resolution was so bad it was hard to tell the difference between shadows and carbon.
As mentioned, the carbon ring does not have to be completely removed for optimal precision. It just can not get out of control. I've never used Thorroclean, but have heard some good reviews.
In my opinion, the main question that always needs to be answered is: Is the rifle accomplishing the task? (I wrote a blog on this subject called Precision Ladder www.ctdshooting.com/post/precision-ladder.) If the barrel is shooting "good" (I don't know what the purpose of this rifle is - therefore "good" is a relative term), then what the borescope is showing might not be worth fretting over. I know....that is tough to do.
The barrel might also be stained. Meaning, the carbon ring is essentially gone, but the steel shows where it once was. Again, the target is the most important piece here - not the borescope. Feel free to email me at ctdshooting@gmail.com. I will be able to reply a lot faster. Again, sorry for the late response. Hope this helps.
Stanley
Have two 17 Wsm savage shoot great,but cant extrac spent case without beating on bolt mite u have solution. Winchester ammo 25 grain
I wish I could help. This might require a gunsmith. There might be some rimfire forums that could steer you in the correct directions. Sorry. Great cartridge though!!!
@@ctdshooting thanks I'll. Let u know how it turns out, maybe new barrej action if I can find .
If you just left it alone it would just fill in the gap between the end of the chamber and the casing and you wouldn't have to worry about it
Well... I won't be doing that. Please be careful of pressure spikes.
Is there a re-posted video from 1999? The image quality is HORRIBLE.
79...Yes, I need to do better
@@ctdshooting Na, the info in the video was great, just needed to turn up the resolution to the year 2019 at least. :)