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Thanks for the question. I have two things to consider. I would size down then turn. Turning slighly into the shoulder. Second, your math is perfect if the widest part of your bullet is .224. Not all bullets have a pressure ring - but some do. The pressure ring will be larger than the bearing surface. You will need to check the bullet(s) you plan to use. Hope this helps. Happy New Year.

@ctdshooting ya I think that is why I wanna go with .003 clearance that way if I do get one with a pressure ring I should still have at least .002. so I have an interesting thing because the alpha 6bra brass is short on headspace to my 22bra chamber I have to do a false shoulder so I think I will neck them down with the false shoulder and turn them down to that false shoulder area

@@Forumrida38621 I do not have any experience with false shoulders (I've heard of them, but never made them). However, I know quite a few guys who have. If you run into issues, let me know and I can hook you up with them. Good luck with the 22BRA.

@ctdshooting thanks I talked to Greg dykstra and he said turn them down at 6mm before necking down to 22 and he said not to worry about some of the shoulder being turned once fire formed

@@Forumrida38621 Excellent. If I may share some of my experience - write down all your steps. You can then make slight adjustments each time to get the "perfect" case for you. Very similar to a recipe. I'm in the process of making a video explaining this idea while detailing my steps for making 30BR brass from 6 BR. Have a good winter.

Yep you're fine. If it is a hunting rifle, you'll probably never know the difference. If this repeatedly happens you'll notice the negative side effects of work hardening sooner. Fire away.

@ctdshooting thank you so much

Thanks for the great questions. To answer your first question = absolutely it is safe to do that. I use a patch over the nylon brush for two reasons. First, I think it provides more surface area to spread and work the iosso. 2nd - it keeps the brush cleaner for the following uses. I'm not respreading the fouling/carbon. But, using just the nylon brush would safely accomplish the same goal. I'm usually four sizes under the caliber. So on the 30, I use a 26 caliber nylon brush with a 1 3/4" square patch. On my 6mm (243) calibers I use a 22 cal nylon brush (I don't have a 20 cal) with a 1 1/2" sized patch. You''ll be able to tell by feel what sized patch you need I hope this fully answered your question.

@ Thanks for taking the time to answer. Glad I’m not damaging my barrel 😆 At the cost of a nylon brush I’m happy to dedicate one to this job, I’d also have thought the surface area of the brush (given each bristle has a surface area of x) would have more surface area of the brush wrapped in a patch, but it’s clear both methods work and that’s the main point. Cheers Simon

Yes! I am actually working on the script for it now. (There will be other things besides just what the groups could be telling us) It will be based off of this article that I wrote for Rifle Shooter a couple years ago. Here is the Blog if you want to know the info right now. www.ctdshooting.com/post/the-barrel-is-speaking-are-you-listening. Thanks for the question and the video suggestions. Please keep them coming.

You're welcome. I very much appreciate your kind words. Thank you.

You're very welcome. If you have any specific topics, please let me know.

You're welcome. I hope it helps.

Thank you for taking the time to comment.

Thank you for the positive comment

You're welcome. Hope you were able to take at least one thing to add to your own toolbox.

First - if you have a question about reloading....ask!!! There are no dumb questions when dealing with something as dangerous/important as reloading. Second, never just blindly trust what someone on the internet says (yes, that includes me). Think about what people write, and see if the logic makes sense. This will help you learn and solve problems. To answer your question = I take out the bushing or expander ball so I am not messing with the neck diameter - only the shoulder bump. Assuming your die to close to where you want it - Start by indicating location of die and locking ring while the die is in the press. I just use a sharpie by making a line on the locking ring and threads on die. Then, unlock the locking ring (usually an allen wrench). Now if you want more shoulder bump - screw the die down. If you want less, unscrew the die up. When you get close to where you want to be, it will take very small changes (this is where the indicating mark comes in handy) Once you get the desired shoulder bump tighten the allen bolt on the locking ring. Make a new indicator mark - erase (dissolve) the other one. You might have to use a pliers (RCBS also make a die tool) to get the die to unscrew from the press. It is not unusual for this to take 3,4, 5 or more cases to get the die where you want. Don't worry - just shoot them and they will fireform back. Hope this helps. Feel free to email me at ctdshooting@gmail.com and we can discuss futher.

Absolutely. Excess oil in the chamber can cause pressure spikes. I use very little oil and usually fireform while breaking in the barrel, so I clean often. Always do what you think is safe

You are welcome. I hope you were able to add some items to your current "playbook"

HAHAH - well thanks Champ!!!!

The theory is It allows the shoulder to have some momentum to help more fully form to the chamber. It was taught to me by several different Hall of Fame shooters. It has always worked for me, so I have not tried anything else. Thanks for the question.

Mostly - yes. There is some new brass out there that I have not used, so I can not say yes to all of them. I do not anneal before fireforming on chambers where I can buy factory brass. However, when I have to expand the necks (such as 220 Russian to 6 ppc or (as shown in video) 6 BR to 30 BR) I will anneal that brass before fireforming. Hope this helps clear that up.

the last match i shot, i had to aim past the target area line to hit the ten... the guys that tried to sight in & aim dead on did terrible.. aiming off was best for me..

Currently, I am shooting the 30BR. My first barrel was a 30x47, then the NBRSA changed their case capacity rule which allowed me to move to the 30BR. BAT 3 Lug. Krieger barrel 1/17 twist. Shooting BIB 118-10. Yes, my favorite of the 3 short range games.

@@kirkethridge2500 At this year's Nationals, that is what I did at the last match of VFS. I did not want to lose my reference point, in case my condition came back. It didn't. I was aiming at the edge of the red. It worked - but I get nervous holding that far off.

I appreciate the info. I will do some research.

TK Nolan made those flags. He no longer makes them. Charlie Hood and David Halblom used to make doubles, but neither do anymore. I am currently researching other individuals who would be willing to make double vane flags.

You're welcome. I hope you are able to use some of the information.

Thank you for the great question. This video was filmed at my personal range and I was the only one within the square mile section. The muzzle was pointed in a safe direction. At actual tournaments, when their are other people around, the HUGE majority of Benchrest shooters have their muzzles down or up and are very aware of what you pointed out. Firearm safety is and should be of the utmost importance and there are no exceptions for shooters who break those rules during competition.

You're very welcome. Hope you are able to use some of the information

Thank you. Hope you were able to use some of the information.

Glad you found the video useful. Sorry for the resolution, rookie video making mistake. Lots of ways to skin a cat, but this one definitely works. Thanks for the positive comment

@@ctdshootingnever noticed. Guess I was distracted by the awesome explanation 👍

Excellent question!!!! For my custom barrels, the gunsmith tells me the dimensions. For my factory rifles, I just use the SAAMI specs. I realize that may not be 100% accurate, but I have never had good luck with chamber casts. Hope this helps

Sorry for my delayed response, I was in New Mexico at a tournament. To quickly answer your question = the bullet touches the bottom of the grooves. Longer answer = land diameter is slightly smaller than the groove diameter which "grips" the bullet making it spin to the twist rate of the rifle. Bullets usually measure slightly larger than the groove diameter. Otherwise some of the gasses/pressure would escape around the sides of the bullet. For example: on a 30 cal barrel the land diameter (sometimes called minor diameter) is roughly .300". The groove diameter (major) is .308. 30 cal bullets measure .308x. Please keep in mind there are machining tolerances that may influence those numbers slightly. Hope this helps

Thanks for the comment. I'm pretty sure I said the black was NOT the carbon - or at least not all of it. Thanks

You're welcome. Hope you enjoyed it and maybe was able to add something to your current process. Yea, I have a tuner on my LV 30 BR, but not on this or my Hunter rifle. Thanks for the comment.

Sounds like a pretty solid set up!!!

Has this neck been expanded? (for example to 6 mm) Generally inside donuts form below where the bullet is seated and really don't affect anything. If your rifle is shooting the way you want, I would leave them alone. If the donut is interfering with the seating depth or neck tension then yes you can purchase an inside reamer to take them out. You will have to measure very precisely as to only get the donut - not the neck walls. Caution - You might want to remeasure for tension and clearance after you do this - just in case you took off more than just the donut. Hope this helps.

@ctdshooting yes been expanded. Yes the donut it right at the flat base line of my bullet. I just noticed when I placed a bullet base down in the case. I had a lil resistance but I don't think it's interfering with seating depth

You're probably good to go and if the rifle is shooting good - then I would no mess with it. In my experience the donut (both outside and inside) were formed during expansion. When you outside neck turn you take the outside donut off. When I make the 30 BR brass I get the same thing. I have different inside neck reamers to just barely skim the inside of the neck which removes this inside donut. However, many great shooters (some Hall of Famers) don't mess with the inside donut. Hope this helps.@@redraiderreloading7612

excellent magazines!!

Thanks for the question. This video shows and explains my initial placement. th-cam.com/video/wEHCrR_umxs/w-d-xo.html Specifically at 11:24. But...each range has it's important spots. In terms of priority - I wish there was a simple answer for you. Can't miss your first two flags - but each range will have it's most important flags. Experience is the only help there - that is why locals always have an advantage. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the comment. I'm glad you are able to take a few things to use.

Thank you for these positive words. I plan on making more, but in much worse conditions.

@ctdshooting here in South Texas summer makes for some pretty rough conditions for filming. Everything overheats. It's tough to lose all your downrange footage!

@@chrislang5659 I read ya...I've never been there during that time of year, but have heard stories. I need to learn a lot about camera placement and securing the camera at target. I'm planning on trying again tomorrow (supposed to have sustained winds in the 30's) Should make for an entertaining video - if I can keep equipment from falling over.

I'm using the BIB 112 - 7. It is built off the .925 jacket. I'm just under 3,100 ft/sec. Using 34.7 gr of H4198. I've shot 118-10 but nothing higher. To be honest, not sure how high I could go in the 17 twist. But....I do know a person who knows. Let me know if you want me to find out.

@@ctdshooting That twist rate just seemed odd to me for a 30 cal gun. Then I looked up BIB and I see that is the bullet to use.

@@bobrau1 Most of the competitors that I shoot with are using 1/17 or 1/18 with 112 to 118 gr bullets. For longer/Heavier bullets a faster twist rate would be needed.

Thank you for the comment - glad the video was worth your time.

Thank you

Yes, great cartridge

HAHAHA - is this Nagal? HAHAHAHA - set your bar higher!!!

Thank you. See you in a month(ish)

Hope there was something in the video that applies to your Dasher. Keep me posted. Thanks

@@ctdshooting looks like bak to 2208 . 2209 fiddly to tune in current Barrel

You're welcome. Hope you were able to add something to your setup.

Hi Hal. I always make sure the necks are clean before resizing (I don't want the fouling to get on the neck bushing). Primer pockets...I really don't know if it makes a difference. I clean them just because I have control over that variable, but if I forget before priming, I don't worry about it. Hope this answers your question.

Much appreciate the kind words

Thanks for the question. H380 has been the most accurate - however it has a small window - so I stopped using it. I have been having great success with R-15 for the past 4 seasons with 52 gr bullets. I want to try a few newer powders this year to see if they can beat R-15, but I doubt they will. Hope this helps.

Have you ever tried ALLIANT AR COMP?

@@billcarlson852 I currently use that in my Rock River 223. I have never tried it in a 250.

Absolutely! But...hope you don't have to use it.

I use Bison to give me a rough idea. Practice fine tunes that information. Do you have a source you would like to share? Thanks for the comment.

@@ctdshooting I don't know that I can post a link here but shooters calculator. It's a site with lots of useful stuff. Set up with good data, at 200 yards it is within a click of hornady 4dof for my .22lr using norma tac-22. If you shoot long range with that stuff, use .150 G1, it'll work better than the factory supplied .132.

@@zackl3094 Thank you for the information. I will do some research. Thank you

Absolutely. I hope you are able to add one or two items to your current process.