As a viewer who knows little, I am most appreciative of basic information…like “You must clamp higher than the centerline in order to clamp round stock securely.”
I’ve suddenly realized that I really need a sliding in feed table. As for 10mm wrenches (and sockets), I firmly believe they should be sold by the dozen, so you can put half in your toolbox and toss the remainder into random corners of the shop. That way you’ll have a fighting chance to find at least one in less than 15 minutes. Great project! Thank you!
I bought a Heinrich clamp and had to remachine all the mounting holes and add inserts. They were out of square by 60 thousands and I could only get 3 of the 4 bolts to start in the roll in saw table. The roll in saw holes were accurate. I contacted Heinrich and they offered no solution other than to drill out the holes or grind them oblong as they said they have been jig drilling the mounting holes for 30 years. Maybe that is the problem as the jig is worn out? Clamp does work nice but! The roll in saw is great but it also was a kit. Needed many many fixes varying from regrinding the table, removing weld spatter, air fittings leaking and nuts rounded out and pivots for the air cylinders needing to be rebuilt.😢 love the saw but should not need this type of work for a new piece of equipment. Made many Robin Renzetti modifications. He and you are a true blessing to machinists everywhere. Nice job on your saw!
Commercial door closing units can be converted into a push mechanism. They are spring driven but have hydraulic dampers and separate control valves for in and out which allow for control of push speed and easy retract.
You could build a small Air over Oil system to power feed your table. Back in the early eighties we adapted some machinery to use this way as a means of controlled movement when air pressure was all we had to work with on a job.
Such a great addition to the saw! It's quite fun to see how you've taken such a basic, horizontal saw and made it into such a useful tool. Hope all is well, sir.
"Tungsten is very expensive and Uranium is very spicy..." Lol Another great video Stefan. Thanks for sharing. Excited to see the pneumatic infeed set up.
Stefan, Adasha machining from instagram - I built the same style table inspired from Robins roll-in saw. I tried the finger style stopper against the guide wheels (Or carbide finger guides in my case) but with any blade height adjustment the stopper didn’t work. What I ended up with was an industrial style limit switch fastened to a indicator magnet base that magnets to my vertical saws table (Under the sliding table). I clamp the work in the table just beside the blade, let the table roll into my sacrificial sub-fence (I don’t like cutting into the fence) and adjust the limit switch magnet until it just touches the back side of the rolling table. The limit switch is just wired parallel to the vfd with the normal off switch on the operating side. I also added aviation cable to the back of the table and a pulley off the back of the machine and hang weights to act as auto table feed. The feed and limit switch allow me to set up a cut and walk away.
I've built something similar, I used a dc motor for indeed with a 24v slipping clutch driving it through a rack and pinion. Works like a charm and allows for adjustable pressure and any issues with a blade braking or slipping. Love the build as usual.
Nice work Stefan. I look forward to the rest of the series, and learning about all the upgrades that a cheap bandsaw receives on it's way to becoming a machinist's bandsaw. Quite keen to see more videos on working with different non-metals (delrin, nylon etc. ) and the detail work that goes into finishing a part, as I think that is something you do particularly well and others don't.
Next video: Stefan builds a grinding setup to remove every other tooth from a 13mm bandsaw blade to make it the coarser version he'd prefer but can't buy :-)
Stefan, I added a small fish tank air pump to the basin of the flood coolant. It makes a cosy sound (do you keep fish in here?) and keeps the flood coolant much longer usable before it starts to grow all kinds of mysterious creatures inside. Otherwise the way oil covers it and anaerobic reactions start to occur as you experienced. Maybe a tip. Best, Job
You're a great sport leaving the travails with the strap clamps in Stefan. I had the same situation on a large radial arm drill trying to get some 1/4" hardware holding down an indexing fixture and literally every time I tried to tweak it and tighten it - pop! I had a great laugh watching that part in commiseration :)
Yeah, I liked it from previous descriptions. Now that you have gone onto the finer points off the table construction I really like it a lot. Well done sir. Linear Rails are very handy.
Out of curiosity, I looked back and see that you have been on TH-cam for 17 years and that I have been a subscriber and faithful follower for 8 years. Thank you very much for all you have taught us!
Well Stefan, that's the warranty screwed on that vice! Can't take it back now if t breaks. All said it's given me ideas for another project, as if I need another. Thanks Stefan.
I just bought the same horizontal bandsaw planning to do the vertical modification based of your groundwork. My shop is small to so I really appreciate the small footprint. The timing of this video is amazing! Thanks for sharing and all the inspiration.
I would have naturally used a stepper or servo motor but I wonder if vehicle estate car tailgate risers could help. Using gravity is ok but a 1 weight is useless, it needs to be variable. A bucket with a water feed / drain is easy but massive size so Uranium in granual or powder form would be a nice solution. Good luck finding an angle-grinder fanatic to mince the Uranium into dust & dont tell him your address. Or mine!
36:10 those deburring tools are great, leave a nice finish and its easy to control the depth. Much better than for example a countersink in a drill which can chatter pretty bad
about 25 years ago my Uncle added a plc controlled feed to his home built roll in like saw. even with all its odd behavior and quirks it reliably maintains +- .015 or so accuracy all day long, it has a surprisingly small footprint compared to the marvel saws. As for the feed rather than a counterweight and pulley setup you can make a simple air over hydraulic system with needle valves to limit speed, super easy to adjust your blade pressure to match your material and blade characteristics.
I have had bandsaw blades made to my specifications for years. Local tooling supplier welds up the quality, thickness, and tooth geometry and count I need. Far better and less expensive than regular store bought. Everyone buy your vise before they jack up the price!
I really like this. Pushing material through my saw in the vertical position with my thumbs freaks me out 🤣. I still need the horizontal position but making a removable table with some location pins seems plausible. Thanks for the vid 👍😊👍. Cheers!
Most important addition on a bandsaw without infeed: A belly-board! A piece of wood, long enough to span from your belly to the sawblade, so you can just use your body pushing in, acting as a powerfeed. :D
Stefanisms: Thanks, Stefan, for another interesting shop topic. I think you have become one of the foundation members of the TH-cam machinists. Your material gets presented repeatedly by others with references back to the original source. You remind me a little of a young Mr. Pete though your precision small project material makes for differently compelling if esoteric topics. I particularly like your shop projects and various components for the flux capacitors :-). Over the years I have tried out and adopted a number of things as a result of your pronouncements here’s a list of a few: Using IPA as a cutting fluid - I had occasion to drill sterling silver and found it quite difficult to do with < 1 mm drills. The jewellery pieces would heat up and separate from the double tape I was using to constrain them. I got to thinking about this and didn’t want to use cutting oil, so I tried the IPA trick. Now I’m sure that what was happening was chip welding in gummy materials. Just adding IPA produced a spiral chip and clean cold cut. This has led me to a more open-minded approach to cutting fluids for a variety of purposes including hand stoning on diamond and aluminum oxide stones also. Everything from mineral oil to white spirits to ethanol and mixtures have been deployed depending on what characteristics I’m looking for in the moment. Carbide burrs. I never knew what to do with these from my Dremel (yes I know) kit, but I’ve since moved on to using them for all kinds of de-burring operations especially in small difficult to get at internal recesses. I use them now for finishing edges on anything from sheet metal to cast iron. Now I’ve expanded my burr collection and for me, they seem to last forever. For me though I find climb milling and conventional milling with them both useful. Carbide: well I’m more used to it now, but I still like HSS, M2 or Cobalt and I still use plain carbon tool steel cutters made by hand occasionally. You sure have piqued my interest in grinding processes and a surface grinder and tool and cutter grinder of some sort is now on my list permanently along with slow speed tools for finishing cutters.
The original marvel saws use a simple single speed lead screw and a slip clutch of plain taperd corks to drive the feed mechanism. The simple screw runs at 1 speed, and adjustable spring tension presses corks against the face of a disc on the end of the screw. The corks provide constant pressure against the blade but slip when needed. This might be a simple feed method to consider. Air over hydraulic may be another simple method. Used often in automation for fine control of pneumatic cylinders and remove the "spring" effect. A simple small air cylinder filled about half full of an oil, oil is then fed to the cylinder. Air pressure adjustment on the reservoir cylinder allows for force adjustment and a flow control in the fluid line allows for very fine control of cylinder speed and movement.
A very nice modification to turn an inexpensive band saw into a more precise and user friendly saw. I would think if you left the slide rails their current length and added a handle between the two, at both ends it could give you a longer table, a push handle and an anchor for a push system. Very nice project, as always. Thanks for sharing.
I know what you are saying in regards to being jealous of Rob Renzetti's vertical band saw. When I worked in fab shops a number of these shops had vertical saws where the saw frame moved and the base was stationary and they were in my opinion the best way to go. My favourite saw was a Marvel brand. They were heavy duty yet simple in design and when used properly very very accurate. They could also be set up to cut compound cuts on square and rectangular tubing along with structural members beautifully. Could you please give us the web address for the camlock drill press vise you purchased. Have a need for a vise like that myself.
Real nice Table for the Saw! My Solution for a power feed seems to be to simple for such nice build Table. But somebody out there wants perhaps build a simple but working Version of the table. If you put a rope at the end of the table change the direction of the rope over a Pully Wheel to the ground and put a weight to the end of the rope you have a pressure adjustable power feed for the Table. Befestigt man ein Zugseil am Ende des Tisches und ändert die Zugrichtung des Seils über eine Umlenkrolle die an der wan befestigt ist Richtung Grund und befestigt dann ein Gewicht am Ende des Zugseils hat man eine einfache automatische Werkstückzuführung. Der Anpressdruck kann über eine Veränderung des Gewichts geändert werden.
The vice stop could go under the saw table using the saw slot ,onto a stop block next to the blade .. and this could have adjustment so possible to repeat same cut
I use F clamps by Piher made in Spain, Typically I use them for welding setups. They have a 2 to 1 double screw mechanism (threads covered) which allows you to squeeze much harder than a standard clamp, rated for 900kg. Very flexible I use them all the time, much more usable then a standard F clamp, sizes from 160mm to 3.0m The 300mm I use most often.
You spoke of the possibility of adding a stop by installing an arm that would contact the upper blade guide. Instead, you could have a finger that went down through the blade slot and contacted a bumper beneath the table.
Another interesting video as always. Thanks! Could you post a link where the drill press vise you bought came from? Also I thought that you were not going to put coolant in the FP 1.
There is one way of making the blades you need for this machine. I did this and it works, but it is not easy thing to do right... You can buy the blade with the tooth count that you need, in the thickness you need, the width is not important. If you can mount the blade in any way on your machine, you can cut/grind the back of the blade until you get the width you need with grinding wheel for fast removal, and after that make some setup with precision grinding the back when the blade is mounted and tensioned on the bandsaw. If you can not mount the blade the bandsaw to cut it, you can mark the part you need to cut, and then free hand cut the back, and after that grind it in place on thr bandsaw. Please excuse my english, I hope I helped you.
Thanks, Stefan! I know that I never have any avoidable issues in my small shop (and if you believe that I would like to discuss the purchase of a number of landmarks here in the U.S. - just think about all of the money you would be able to collect for the use of these landmarks, such as tolls on famous bridges). Best regards, Charlie
hmmmm seems like a good idea , like you said it makes for a lot smaller foodprint , i can allso see options for an autofeed , the only thing is that it becomes harder to cut pieces that are longer than about 1 meter , then again that size doesnt happen a lot in a home shop have a slightly smaller sized bandsaw that i since replaced by the size youre having there , might try to build it with a sliding table like youre building
If I may ask, what’s the speed and gear ratio of the industrial right angle drive gear box? I have two of these only one I use as it was intended, horizontal cutter and the other I found in my local scrapyard, but the motor was burnt out. Everything else about it was fine, good working condition but I’ve been thinking of making it a permanent vertical bandsaw. This video has inspired to make my own. Only I have various size IKO cross roller bearing ways I can try to work with and of course scrap metal. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video! The moving table seems to be quite thick compaired to the old stationary table and there seems to be some flex when you lean on the frond of the liniear rails in some shots. is the lower regidty of the fixed table not an problem? or is it low enought comaired to the inherent inacuracy of the band saw it self?
@12:12 I snorted my beer out when you queried your own pronunciation of "Heinrich" 🤣 This is looking very slick so far, slicing that disc was a jaw dropper, can't wait to see how the pneumatic feed with hydraulic damping works out👍👍 Ps, as someone who isn't so adept at indicating, I wondered if it could have been easier to make a fixture for drilling the severed head of that clamp using the geometry of the round rails)
Is it bandsaw day today? I woke up to Mark (Rotary SMP) receiving the geartrain for his Do-All and machining new shafts. 6 hours later im watching Stephan working on his.
Great idea! One question though... How did you align the slides with the blade so they would track parallel to it? From previous experience, if they aren't parallel, the blade walks off to one side.
Put a soft roller on top of the moving jaw with limit switch. Plastic or copper or even a rubber roller should work nicely and does not damage the blade. Then just some weights to work as gravity feed.
Couldn't you use perhaps a pulley system to "double" or "quadruple" the weight for gravity feed? Seems like there is enough space below the table to achieve the horizontal travel. Or even a simple gear and rack system.
You can trade off weight for travel with a pulley block (attached to the ceiling?). Even the height of the machine is several times the 150mm vice capacity. Plan B, Aren't quill springs supposed to be constant tension? A small one of those and a rack & pinion?
I just sent two 100 mm Spannhände to the address you have on your website 😊 Keep it up and thanks for the awesome content PS: any plans to sell some ground flatstones again?
Serious? Thank you! :-) Appreciate it a whole lot. Yes, I sell the stones again, supply problems seem to have gone away. Now its just me beeing slow fullfilling orders/shipping :D
Für eine Sekunde hatte ich die Silikonpresse sogar in der Hand und wollte die zerlegen und umbauen :D Aber dann ist mir zum Glück der Schraubstock vor die Füße gefallen.
Great video 👍 Such a honest and funny video about a band saw I thought you might consider a water powered steampunk setup as a power feed feature oh well keep it simple stupid kiss 😅
Stefan, I would think that using only one screw to hold the bed plate down would cause the the plate to cock to the side with the screw, your thoughts. I always enjoy watching you as you take care to get the best precision out of your work, something that today seems to be lacking in some industries these days.
The rear vice jaw seems like it would tend to tilt backwards if a large diameter piece was clamped. Did you consider adding a pair of triangular braces to prevent this ?
It definetly flexes, sure - But So far I have not seen any negative effects, its not like we clamp with 40kN of force ;) (Also most of the force from the cut is directed downwards.)
This is an awesome idea and of course you have implemented it superbly. A similar idea that I have had is to convert one of these saws to a roll-in saw, though I haven't tried it yet. As for the vise, it seems to be quite simple and I would think that with your skills and equipment, you could build one easily. Have you considered that?
Re: feeding the table using a weight, would a block and tackle arrangement let you use a more reasonable amount of weight? You only need 150mm of travel, so you could get a 3:1 ratio with under half a metre of height difference for the weight.
Great video, as usual! One question, how about the clamping force, what is the screw/dowel bending momentum tolerance? I'm referring to the stability of the gate/jaw against the clamping force induced rotational momentum at the back gate/jaw edge, where it rests on the table? I'd expect it to get quite pronounced as the clamping contact height grows with larger round (not square) stock.
Are you a woodworker? :D A rabbit or step would be a good thing too, but the chamer I can cut very quickly with the chamfer milling machine, just a case of laziness.
Hi Stefan, nice job, good results. Using my band saw with wood is usually a nightmare cause I have do adjust the side drift before start cutting straight lines. Have you experienced it on that particular design?
"I'm a grown a** man and I know how to run a bandsaw". Best thing you've ever said.
Spicy uranium. Stefan with the sage quotes
As a viewer who knows little, I am most appreciative of basic information…like “You must clamp higher than the centerline in order to clamp round stock securely.”
I’ve suddenly realized that I really need a sliding in feed table. As for 10mm wrenches (and sockets), I firmly believe they should be sold by the dozen, so you can put half in your toolbox and toss the remainder into random corners of the shop. That way you’ll have a fighting chance to find at least one in less than 15 minutes. Great project! Thank you!
Strangely, I tend to loose 3/8th's sockets and spanners more than anything!!
Only a dozen????
It doesn't work I bought a large pack of bright yellow pencils. I don't know what happened to them.
@@Dave.Wilson3/8 is almost the same dimension as 10mm, 10mm being just ever so slightly larger. As some(ahem, me) say “a c*nt hair” 😅
@@Dave.Wilson3/8 is almost the same dimension as 10mm, 10mm being just ever so slightly larger. As some(ahem, me) say “a c*nt hair” 😅
I bought a Heinrich clamp and had to remachine all the mounting holes and add inserts. They were out of square by 60 thousands and I could only get 3 of the 4 bolts to start in the roll in saw table. The roll in saw holes were accurate. I contacted Heinrich and they offered no solution other than to drill out the holes or grind them oblong as they said they have been jig drilling the mounting holes for 30 years. Maybe that is the problem as the jig is worn out? Clamp does work nice but! The roll in saw is great but it also was a kit. Needed many many fixes varying from regrinding the table, removing weld spatter, air fittings leaking and nuts rounded out and pivots for the air cylinders needing to be rebuilt.😢 love the saw but should not need this type of work for a new piece of equipment. Made many Robin Renzetti modifications. He and you are a true blessing to machinists everywhere. Nice job on your saw!
Commercial door closing units can be converted into a push mechanism.
They are spring driven but have hydraulic dampers and separate control valves for in and out which allow for control of push speed and easy retract.
Bro,, I can’t believe how nice that bandsaw works,, what a good job man,, you’re definitely a pro..👍
You could build a small Air over Oil system to power feed your table. Back in the early eighties we adapted some machinery to use this way as a means of controlled movement when air pressure was all we had to work with on a job.
Air over oil is exactly what i was thinking off :-)
Such a great addition to the saw! It's quite fun to see how you've taken such a basic, horizontal saw and made it into such a useful tool. Hope all is well, sir.
Thanks Tom! Things are looking good over here, you seem to do well, judging after your last videos :-)
"Tungsten is very expensive and Uranium is very spicy..." Lol
Another great video Stefan. Thanks for sharing. Excited to see the pneumatic infeed set up.
Congratulations on 100k Subs!
Thank you!
I very much want to do this project as well with my own saw. Thanks for the inspiration!
Honesty, that's the only criticism I have for the Clickspring channel. It's all perfection. Nothing ever goes wrong.
Love the shop or personal projects, as opposed to some secret flux capacitor parts lol. They’re more practical as well as educational. Thanks Stefan 👍
"I'm a grown ass man" hahaha I love it!!
Stefan, Adasha machining from instagram - I built the same style table inspired from Robins roll-in saw. I tried the finger style stopper against the guide wheels (Or carbide finger guides in my case) but with any blade height adjustment the stopper didn’t work. What I ended up with was an industrial style limit switch fastened to a indicator magnet base that magnets to my vertical saws table (Under the sliding table). I clamp the work in the table just beside the blade, let the table roll into my sacrificial sub-fence (I don’t like cutting into the fence) and adjust the limit switch magnet until it just touches the back side of the rolling table. The limit switch is just wired parallel to the vfd with the normal off switch on the operating side. I also added aviation cable to the back of the table and a pulley off the back of the machine and hang weights to act as auto table feed. The feed and limit switch allow me to set up a cut and walk away.
As always, well thought out and executed. Thank you for sharing.
I've built something similar, I used a dc motor for indeed with a 24v slipping clutch driving it through a rack and pinion. Works like a charm and allows for adjustable pressure and any issues with a blade braking or slipping. Love the build as usual.
33:00 I never use Tungsten or Uranium for exactly the reasons you've described. Had a bad experience with Plutonium too.
Nice work Stefan. I look forward to the rest of the series, and learning about all the upgrades that a cheap bandsaw receives on it's way to becoming a machinist's bandsaw. Quite keen to see more videos on working with different non-metals (delrin, nylon etc. ) and the detail work that goes into finishing a part, as I think that is something you do particularly well and others don't.
Next video: Stefan builds a grinding setup to remove every other tooth from a 13mm bandsaw blade to make it the coarser version he'd prefer but can't buy :-)
I considered die-grindering away every second tooth just to try it :D
You would have to consider how the tooth set is on the bandsaw blade if you were going to do that.
@@StefanGotteswinter or, you could do a deepdive on learning to file teeth . 😊
This looks like a great setup and I think I have everything but the rails and trucks.
Thanks Stefan!
I got a good laugh from this one thanks.
Stefan, I added a small fish tank air pump to the basin of the flood coolant. It makes a cosy sound (do you keep fish in here?) and keeps the flood coolant much longer usable before it starts to grow all kinds of mysterious creatures inside. Otherwise the way oil covers it and anaerobic reactions start to occur as you experienced. Maybe a tip. Best, Job
Stefan!!! So wonderful to see you humility and openness with the clamping on the drill press. You are the best and we learn so very much from you.
You're a great sport leaving the travails with the strap clamps in Stefan. I had the same situation on a large radial arm drill trying to get some 1/4" hardware holding down an indexing fixture and literally every time I tried to tweak it and tighten it - pop! I had a great laugh watching that part in commiseration :)
Yeah, I liked it from previous descriptions. Now that you have gone onto the finer points off the table construction I really like it a lot. Well done sir. Linear Rails are very handy.
Linear rails make the world go round...errr...linear. :)
Very cleaver and smart looking saw.. Looking forward to Pt. 2.. Always enjoy watching you work and your explanation of your process.
Russ
Out of curiosity, I looked back and see that you have been on TH-cam for 17 years and that I have been a subscriber and faithful follower for 8 years. Thank you very much for all you have taught us!
Well Stefan, that's the warranty screwed on that vice! Can't take it back now if t breaks. All said it's given me ideas for another project, as if I need another. Thanks Stefan.
The yellow "Technisch fragwürdig" sticker made my day.
I just bought the same horizontal bandsaw planning to do the vertical modification based of your groundwork. My shop is small to so I really appreciate the small footprint. The timing of this video is amazing! Thanks for sharing and all the inspiration.
I would have naturally used a stepper or servo motor but I wonder if vehicle estate car tailgate risers could help.
Using gravity is ok but a 1 weight is useless, it needs to be variable.
A bucket with a water feed / drain is easy but massive size so Uranium in granual or powder form would be a nice solution.
Good luck finding an angle-grinder fanatic to mince the Uranium into dust & dont tell him your address.
Or mine!
Very good job setefan,,thanks for your time
I’m glad to see my suggestion of the chamfer on the fence was added. Thanks Stefan!
Very interesting idea. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
36:10 those deburring tools are great, leave a nice finish and its easy to control the depth. Much better than for example a countersink in a drill which can chatter pretty bad
Now you have me wanting to buy a used 4x6!
about 25 years ago my Uncle added a plc controlled feed to his home built roll in like saw. even with all its odd behavior and quirks it reliably maintains +- .015 or so accuracy all day long, it has a surprisingly small footprint compared to the marvel saws. As for the feed rather than a counterweight and pulley setup you can make a simple air over hydraulic system with needle valves to limit speed, super easy to adjust your blade pressure to match your material and blade characteristics.
This saw would be useful in the kitchen, too, yes?
Gorgeous...
Oohhhh! Congratulations on hitting 100,000 subscribers Stefan. A well deserved milestone.
Thank you!
Enjoyed…great mods/build
I have had bandsaw blades made to my specifications for years. Local tooling supplier welds up the quality, thickness, and tooth geometry and count I need. Far better and less expensive than regular store bought. Everyone buy your vise before they jack up the price!
Elegant, but only as complex as necessary. Very well done. And I absolutely must find a way to reuse the "Uranium is spicy" reference. 🤣🤣
“I’m a grown ass man and know where to put my fingers.” 😂. Great vid. Great saw. My Roll In approves 👍🫡🙏🏽
Good work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Great idea and well done,Stefan.Thank you.
totally enjoyed the vid Stefan, great work!
Nicely done, Stephan!
Very much looking forward to part 2.
Very nice work. Outstanding design. Thank you.
everyone needs at least one horizontal and one vertical bandsaw. a proper blade guard is not optional!
I really like this. Pushing material through my saw in the vertical position with my thumbs freaks me out 🤣.
I still need the horizontal position but making a removable table with some location pins seems plausible.
Thanks for the vid 👍😊👍.
Cheers!
Most important addition on a bandsaw without infeed: A belly-board! A piece of wood, long enough to span from your belly to the sawblade, so you can just use your body pushing in, acting as a powerfeed. :D
the „technisch fragwürdig“ sticke is just great!
Stefanisms:
Thanks, Stefan, for another interesting shop topic. I think you have become one of the foundation members of the TH-cam machinists. Your material gets presented repeatedly by others with references back to the original source. You remind me a little of a young Mr. Pete though your precision small project material makes for differently compelling if esoteric topics. I particularly like your shop projects and various components for the flux capacitors :-).
Over the years I have tried out and adopted a number of things as a result of your pronouncements here’s a list of a few:
Using IPA as a cutting fluid - I had occasion to drill sterling silver and found it quite difficult to do with < 1 mm drills. The jewellery pieces would heat up and separate from the double tape I was using to constrain them. I got to thinking about this and didn’t want to use cutting oil, so I tried the IPA trick. Now I’m sure that what was happening was chip welding in gummy materials. Just adding IPA produced a spiral chip and clean cold cut. This has led me to a more open-minded approach to cutting fluids for a variety of purposes including hand stoning on diamond and aluminum oxide stones also. Everything from mineral oil to white spirits to ethanol and mixtures have been deployed depending on what characteristics I’m looking for in the moment.
Carbide burrs. I never knew what to do with these from my Dremel (yes I know) kit, but I’ve since moved on to using them for all kinds of de-burring operations especially in small difficult to get at internal recesses. I use them now for finishing edges on anything from sheet metal to cast iron. Now I’ve expanded my burr collection and for me, they seem to last forever. For me though I find climb milling and conventional milling with them both useful.
Carbide: well I’m more used to it now, but I still like HSS, M2 or Cobalt and I still use plain carbon tool steel cutters made by hand occasionally. You sure have piqued my interest in grinding processes and a surface grinder and tool and cutter grinder of some sort is now on my list permanently along with slow speed tools for finishing cutters.
Great video and even greater idea and realisation of it Stefan!
The original marvel saws use a simple single speed lead screw and a slip clutch of plain taperd corks to drive the feed mechanism. The simple screw runs at 1 speed, and adjustable spring tension presses corks against the face of a disc on the end of the screw. The corks provide constant pressure against the blade but slip when needed. This might be a simple feed method to consider. Air over hydraulic may be another simple method. Used often in automation for fine control of pneumatic cylinders and remove the "spring" effect. A simple small air cylinder filled about half full of an oil, oil is then fed to the cylinder. Air pressure adjustment on the reservoir cylinder allows for force adjustment and a flow control in the fluid line allows for very fine control of cylinder speed and movement.
Very nicely done Stefan! Are you considering the digital stop in the future?
ATB, Robin
Thank you robin! Yes, I already have an old Mitutoyo Digimatic on my bench to be sliced up :)
A very nice modification to turn an inexpensive band saw into a more precise and user friendly saw.
I would think if you left the slide rails their current length and added a handle between the two, at both ends it could give you a longer table, a push handle and an anchor for a push system.
Very nice project, as always.
Thanks for sharing.
I love it.. Great use of that vice..
I know what you are saying in regards to being jealous of Rob Renzetti's vertical band saw. When I worked in fab shops a number of these shops had vertical saws where the saw frame moved and the base was stationary and they were in my opinion the best way to go. My favourite saw was a Marvel brand. They were heavy duty yet simple in design and when used properly very very accurate. They could also be set up to cut compound cuts on square and rectangular tubing along with structural members beautifully.
Could you please give us the web address for the camlock drill press vise you purchased. Have a need for a vise like that myself.
Real nice Table for the Saw! My Solution for a power feed seems to be to simple for such nice build Table. But somebody out there wants perhaps build a simple but working Version of the table.
If you put a rope at the end of the table change the direction of the rope over a Pully Wheel to the ground and put a weight to the end of the rope you have a pressure adjustable power feed for the Table.
Befestigt man ein Zugseil am Ende des Tisches und ändert die Zugrichtung des Seils über eine Umlenkrolle die an der wan befestigt ist Richtung Grund und befestigt dann ein Gewicht am Ende des Zugseils hat man eine einfache automatische Werkstückzuführung. Der Anpressdruck kann über eine Veränderung des Gewichts geändert werden.
Newbie machinist (me) grabs shop notebook and pen…”Uranium is spicy”. Got it 👍 😅Love everyone of your videos Stefan, I learn so much from every one ❤
The vice stop could go under the saw table using the saw slot ,onto a stop block next to the blade .. and this could have adjustment so possible to repeat same cut
I use F clamps by Piher made in Spain, Typically I use them for welding setups. They have a 2 to 1 double screw mechanism (threads covered) which allows you to squeeze much harder than a standard clamp, rated for 900kg. Very flexible I use them all the time, much more usable then a standard F clamp, sizes from 160mm to 3.0m
The 300mm I use most often.
Very nice, thank you.
At 11:50, i suppose you could add in some sacrificial material to prevent cutting in to the fence.
Yep! But once the stop for the slide is in place it will be a no-problem anymore.
You spoke of the possibility of adding a stop by installing an arm that would contact the upper blade guide. Instead, you could have a finger that went down through the blade slot and contacted a bumper beneath the table.
Another interesting video as always. Thanks! Could you post a link where the drill press vise you bought came from? Also I thought that you were not going to put coolant in the FP 1.
There is one way of making the blades you need for this machine.
I did this and it works, but it is not easy thing to do right...
You can buy the blade with the tooth count that you need, in the thickness you need, the width is not important. If you can mount the blade in any way on your machine, you can cut/grind the back of the blade until you get the width you need with grinding wheel for fast removal, and after that make some setup with precision grinding the back when the blade is mounted and tensioned on the bandsaw. If you can not mount the blade the bandsaw to cut it, you can mark the part you need to cut, and then free hand cut the back, and after that grind it in place on thr bandsaw. Please excuse my english, I hope I helped you.
Thanks, Stefan!
I know that I never have any avoidable issues in my small shop (and if you believe that I would like to discuss the purchase of a number of landmarks here in the U.S. - just think about all of the money you would be able to collect for the use of these landmarks, such as tolls on famous bridges).
Best regards, Charlie
hmmmm seems like a good idea , like you said it makes for a lot smaller foodprint , i can allso see options for an autofeed , the only thing is that it becomes harder to cut pieces that are longer than about 1 meter , then again that size doesnt happen a lot in a home shop
have a slightly smaller sized bandsaw that i since replaced by the size youre having there , might try to build it with a sliding table like youre building
If I may ask, what’s the speed and gear ratio of the industrial right angle drive gear box? I have two of these only one I use as it was intended, horizontal cutter and the other I found in my local scrapyard, but the motor was burnt out. Everything else about it was fine, good working condition but I’ve been thinking of making it a permanent vertical bandsaw.
This video has inspired to make my own. Only I have various size IKO cross roller bearing ways I can try to work with and of course scrap metal.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video! The moving table seems to be quite thick compaired to the old stationary table and there seems to be some flex when you lean on the frond of the liniear rails in some shots. is the lower regidty of the fixed table not an problem? or is it low enought comaired to the inherent inacuracy of the band saw it self?
Cool modification!
@12:12 I snorted my beer out when you queried your own pronunciation of "Heinrich" 🤣
This is looking very slick so far, slicing that disc was a jaw dropper, can't wait to see how the pneumatic feed with hydraulic damping works out👍👍
Ps, as someone who isn't so adept at indicating, I wondered if it could have been easier to make a fixture for drilling the severed head of that clamp using the geometry of the round rails)
Air over oil with a needle valve... Perfect in-feed
I have a clone of that saw,however my plate is somewhat basic, nice job
Is it bandsaw day today?
I woke up to Mark (Rotary SMP) receiving the geartrain for his Do-All and machining new shafts.
6 hours later im watching Stephan working on his.
Great idea! One question though...
How did you align the slides with the blade so they would track parallel to it? From previous experience, if they aren't parallel, the blade walks off to one side.
Put a soft roller on top of the moving jaw with limit switch. Plastic or copper or even a rubber roller should work nicely and does not damage the blade. Then just some weights to work as gravity feed.
Couldn't you use perhaps a pulley system to "double" or "quadruple" the weight for gravity feed? Seems like there is enough space below the table to achieve the horizontal travel. Or even a simple gear and rack system.
You can trade off weight for travel with a pulley block (attached to the ceiling?). Even the height of the machine is several times the 150mm vice capacity.
Plan B, Aren't quill springs supposed to be constant tension? A small one of those and a rack & pinion?
I just sent two 100 mm Spannhände to the address you have on your website 😊
Keep it up and thanks for the awesome content
PS: any plans to sell some ground flatstones again?
Serious? Thank you! :-)
Appreciate it a whole lot.
Yes, I sell the stones again, supply problems seem to have gone away. Now its just me beeing slow fullfilling orders/shipping :D
@@StefanGotteswinter yeah :)
no worries, I figured you will make good use out of them.
alright, then I'll shoot you another mail ^^
Another informative video! Can you send the ebay link for the camlock vice, please?
Well done 👍.
15:00 Oder wie bei einer Silikon-Pistole.
Or like a caulking gun.
Für eine Sekunde hatte ich die Silikonpresse sogar in der Hand und wollte die zerlegen und umbauen :D
Aber dann ist mir zum Glück der Schraubstock vor die Füße gefallen.
Dear Stefan, amazing video and idea as always. What size vise did you get to chop up? Thank you!
That was a 100mm wide one.
"Technisch fragwürdig". Need a lot of those stickers for my shop.
loet.bar/products/plakette-fragwuerdig-sticker
Great video 👍 Such a honest and funny video about a band saw I thought you might consider a water powered steampunk setup as a power feed feature oh well keep it simple stupid kiss 😅
Stefan, I would think that using only one screw to hold the bed plate down would cause the the plate to cock to the side with the screw, your thoughts. I always enjoy watching you as you take care to get the best precision out of your work, something that today seems to be lacking in some industries these days.
The rear vice jaw seems like it would tend to tilt backwards if a large diameter piece was clamped. Did you consider adding a pair of triangular braces to prevent this ?
It definetly flexes, sure - But So far I have not seen any negative effects, its not like we clamp with 40kN of force ;)
(Also most of the force from the cut is directed downwards.)
you should make a sacrificial plate to go on your vise face for the blade to cut into. out of Al, or brass.
This is an awesome idea and of course you have implemented it superbly. A similar idea that I have had is to convert one of these saws to a roll-in saw, though I haven't tried it yet.
As for the vise, it seems to be quite simple and I would think that with your skills and equipment, you could build one easily. Have you considered that?
Yes - I think thats a very approachable mechanism to build yourself, but in this case modifying the existing thing was faster ;)
Re: feeding the table using a weight, would a block and tackle arrangement let you use a more reasonable amount of weight? You only need 150mm of travel, so you could get a 3:1 ratio with under half a metre of height difference for the weight.
Great video, as usual! One question, how about the clamping force, what is the screw/dowel bending momentum tolerance? I'm referring to the stability of the gate/jaw against the clamping force induced rotational momentum at the back gate/jaw edge, where it rests on the table? I'd expect it to get quite pronounced as the clamping contact height grows with larger round (not square) stock.
Nobody:
Me: *throwing away my uranium counterweights
You have a link or actual name of the clamp you were showing at 12:45
I have an ebay link:
www.ebay.de/itm/393229729540
SG: what about cutting a rabbit instead of the heavy chamfer at the base of the backstop. might jam less chips. Regards. Great work.
Are you a woodworker? :D
A rabbit or step would be a good thing too, but the chamer I can cut very quickly with the chamfer milling machine, just a case of laziness.
Very very neat!!!!! Thank you.
Hi Stefan, nice job, good results. Using my band saw with wood is usually a nightmare cause I have do adjust the side drift before start cutting straight lines. Have you experienced it on that particular design?
Sehr gute Arbeit! 👍👏❤🛠😎
Danke!
I don't understand the design of having the blade go through the fixed jaw, and the stock pressing against the movable jaw?