1:01:40 Thank You Stefan. I lost my entire family at a very young age. I have no next of kin per say. A few cousins, one owens a large die-casting shop. My dad was Tool and Die at GM. One of the last things he said to me was "if you see a twist drill with made in Japan or Germany, buy it, they make good stuff" This was in 1975, I was 9 yr old. The rest fell soon after that. Thank You again! This video made my Christmas!
I learned a trick for dealing with double sided tape recently that has made dealing with it so much easier. This is especially true for VHB tape, since it's able to stick so tenaciously to the backer tape. Normally I'd cut a piece of tape off to the size I want, including the backer tape, apply the sticky side to my surface, then struggle with getting the backer tape off without ruining the double sided tape. Now, instead of cutting the backer tape off, I just cut the tape itself, leaving the loose strip of backer tape connected to the roll, apply it to the surface, then just peel away the backer that's still attached to the roll. It's hard to describe, but if you just adjust your practice to never cut the backer tape, it'll make sense. If the mess of backer tape gets too long you can shorten it up, just make sure to leave enough so that when you use the tape again you have some backer to pull on.
A solvent I use (carefully) is MG Chemicals 4140A Flux Remover. It's a mix of N-Heptane (non-polar hydrocarbon solvent, 25% by weight) & isopropyl alcohol (polar solvent, 75% by weight). Not particularly safe stuff, PPE required (see SDS, gloves (NOT latex rubber, PVA, or PVC, it'll dissolve them), protective clothing, P100 respirator with appropriate cartridges, & eye protection, use good ventilation), but it'll dissolve all sorts of gunk. Don't use on aluminum. The cool thing about it is it'll dissolve most glues. Stick some in a syringe and you can inject it into glue joints (carefully) to remove glued parts without damage. The other nice thing to have is self-vulcanizing silicone rubber tape. It has *no* adhesive, instead you stretch it out & wrap it around something with decent overlap. It cross-links between the layers, forming a single piece of vulcanized silicone. Once bonded it won't unwrap without tearing or cutting. Usually rated to something like 8kV, also water-tight & resistant to all the same stuff silicone usually is. Way better than vinyl electrical tape.
Always interesting to see how people organize their workshops. It's also super awesome to see consumables featured. People often just show their tools. 👍
37:53 some of us are really into viscosity… don’t kink shame 😊 But seriously, thanks for taking a moment to talk about self-care during this time of the year, especially for those of us who are spending the holidays alone. Merry Christmas!
7:00 I work at a place that has some polycarbonate boxes that are regularly cleaned with 70+ % IPA, they aren't under stress, but repeated exposure to alcohol inevitably leads to cracking, the theory is that it is absorbed, slightly, permeating deep into material slightly expanding it of course, and once the alcohol evaporates from the top layer, it wants to shrink back, but the subsurface still holds alco (and thus is in expanded state), so the shrinking top layer starts to develop micro fractures that then absorb more alco next time accelerating the whole process
Finally an episode where I have the things that you show. I do not have to worry about some new wonder tool, being used in some amazing fashion. In this episode, All I have to come to grips with is the underutilization of the stuff I have.,..... Keep up the great work, enjoy your holidays. Lift a glass of the good stuff with family and friends and may you have many happy returns. Merry Christmas . .
Thank you Stefan... This was all very interesting including the time filling tour of the basement... I always enjoy your visits and you sense of humor.. Enjoy the holidays Russ
Awesome content, one thing you may want to try is ATF (automatic transmission fluid) for flushing out and cleaning of bearing, gear housings, air cylinders or anything else that needs to be well protected from rust and also flushed out. It's fairly cheap light oil full of detergents, corrosion inhibitors and seal conditioners. I use it to flush out air system components like solenoids, it can wash out any crud, lubes up the bits and conditions the rubber seals inside. I use it as an alternative to WD40 type cleaners in a lot of situations as it cleans but also lubricates. Great video as always!
I add acetone to the tranny fluid, amazing penetration oil, takes heat with oil staying in place, not good for enclosed spaces without ventilation due to acetone.
Frohe Weinachten. Thanks for the workshop insights. Some new content on Christmas Day is much appreciated.👍 Thanks also for your dedication throughout the year.
that was great Stefan, will have to watch it several times to get all the details and tips .. hope you had a good christmas time and wishing you a happy and prosperous new year.
Information: in Europa haben wir "Lub%care" von Brunox oder Bilt Hambert Wax beides in Spraydosen. Sehr ergiebig sehr gut für jahrelangen Schutz auch draussen.
Hellow Stefan I will be 81 year's old in march I was a machinist and die maker for over 40 year's I have to say I like the way you machine your part's and explain the way you do them thank you.
nice to see you keep some things simply simple... like the selection on cutting fluids... I have read a lot on YT as well as some forums why something needs to be like this and that and so on but sometimes keeping it simple is the best totally different on lubricants as you said as well... there you have to use the right material for the right purpose... and yes, I got to see some tricks I might have to use soon once the next projects start thx for this amazing video and have a nice end of 2023 Stefan 🤗 Grüße aus Niederösterreich 🤗
One multi use chemical you may want to add to your list is automatic transmission fluid. It can be used to clean, and leave a protective coating on freshly machined surfaces and it works especially well on newly machined or honed cast iron and steel. In my experience it will last somewhere between 1-4 weeks before rust can begin to start forming depending on temp and humidity in the shop so it is good to have at the wash station or used as an in process cleaner where flash rusting may be a problem and leaving an oily surface for either the next stage or shipping will not be a problem.
14:50 I think lemonine would also work instead of the Shellsol T. I know it's a solvent for wax, but I don't know how well it would work with the Cosmoloid H80. It's not harmless either, but at least it would make the workshop smell like oranges while it dries. 😊
For long term spray I use LU 710 from sprayon. Dries like a waxy cosmolin layer. Machines get wiped down with kerosene, and I use lighter fluid to lube my micrometers
I'm in the intro and he says "brief" as I'm looking at a just over 1 hour video! Very nice tour and you answered a few of my questions on "stuff" you use in the shop! Frohe Weihnachten Stefan!
Jokisch is indeed a very good "All purpose" Cutting fluid, we used it in the toolroom for all materials, Copper, brass, Steel, Toolsteel, it "ate" everything. I now use "Rapid-Tap" because that is formulated to be used on titanium as well, and i machine mostly titanium.. As a machine Coolant, i use Kroon Oils EMTOR, which also works great on titanium, i do a lot of thread cutting on the lathe, and i just flood it with EMTOR..
That was just great, loads of info that interests me, the Jokisch Heavy duty cutting oil looks like something I need to replace the various cutting fluids I have, sort of a do it all. I also do a lot of modelling with plastics, so the acetone/baking soda info is invaluable, thanks. have a great Christmas, best regards, Dave
Freu weihnachten Stefan! And thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. For someone like me who just started out in the tool & die world your channel is an absolute treasure!.
There are industrial detergents for AC systems, it degreases and mixes whit water. It even takes down some lower grade paints, water resistant markers. Use glowes. For temporery bonding engravers use stamping wax (once used for sealing documents), it disolves in 96% ethanol, hold extremly well and is cheap, kalaphonium resin is main engridient. For easy diss and moisture protection of small threads you might laugh but nail polish works well.
You bring up spending time with the family this time of year and it is important, but sometimes afterwards it’s nice to unwind with something that you are interested in. I’m not being selfish, after spending the better part of the day listening and talking and being with your family, a little down time can reinvigorate and give you a second wind. Thanks for sharing, Merry Christmas to all and I hope your New Year is enjoyable.
Stefan, thanks for the run down of those chemicals you actually use. I have a wide array in all categories, but find I only use a handful on a regular basis, so I should probably get rid of the rest; however, I will probably hold on to the Lard Oil that I have had available for 50± years I use the 3M 926 Transfer Tape, which has similar properties as the 467 tape but is reverse-wound so a special applicator (3M ATG 700) is required unless you want to make a mess. Most of the applications in my shop have been to attach large labels with photos to storage boxes (photos show the contents, both to help me remember what is in the box and how to fit everything back in the box so that the lid can be replaced). I have also used it when repairing/replacing laptop screens to re-attach the thin metal bezels: holds as well as the factory adhesive (which is probably a similar material). Best regards, Charlie [Sorry, almost forgot: frohes neues Jahr!]
I enjoyed this very much as all your fantastic films and work. Nice speech in the end, you're quite a philosopher. Have a great new years eve. Cheers from Sweden.
Thanks for the video! Just the right thing for the holidays! I have the same bearing puller. I have scrapped countless pullers, this one "cheap" one has lasted for years now. Only the tip is a bit too soft. I will reinforce it when I get the time. I wish you happy holidays!
Not sure how available fluid film is over there but I find it is a wonderful product for corrosion and lubrication and since it is lanolin based it smells good and has no skin issues.
I use Boeshield for rust prevention -- It also dries to a thin wax coating but is not sticky. great for table saw, bandsaw or other machined cast iron surfaces and fine for aluminum -- it was engineered as a corrosion inhibitor for commercial airplanes-
Interested in the Samoa Hallbauer push-type oil gun. After much searching in UK I bought the best I could find but it didn't work. It was so air tight that after a couple of pushes no more oil would come out. It lacked a mechanism for admitting air to replace the expelled oil. So I put a one-way valve in the cap. But it then leaked everywhere. Yours is 04032 F60/3 suitable for grease and high viscosity oil. They also make a 05132 FO 180/3 which they say is "suitable for low viscosity oils". Sadly, none available in UK.
Awesome. I have always experimented with different shop chemicals and materials. There are so many and they have their use. Trying different things is the best way to find what works best for you. Thank you.
My new chemicals in the shop are alkalines, acids, salts etc. Electrochemistry is great! Nickel plating, copper plating, anodizing aluminium and titanium. A lot of fun and interesting.
Great content as always Stefan. An idea for another “quick” video in the new year - having just seen the old space, maybe an update on the new space, I must admit that I’ve kinda lost track of what machines that you have in there and what the layout is so a refresher would be a nice kickoff for 2024. Love the channel, enjoy the break and looking forwards to what the new year brings you. ✌️
Stefan, You might consider trying Starrett M1 in place or addition to LPS3. I don't know how available M1 is in Germany, but it is considerably cheaper than LPS products, and it provides a protective film as well, just not as heavy as LPS3. Protects against very well even out doors. Comes in spray cans, but gallons are much cheaper, and pressure cans are cheap. Tim
Thank you Stefan, now I know what is bad for health. I am interested to find more safe products to use, since with manual machines it is really difficult to mitigate exposure. Also using gloves and respirator is impractical. Safer products are a win.
Really appreciate the basement tour! A quick video about tumbling would be cool, bet you do things different from the last showoff in "machining assembly equipment" Guter Rutsch!
I really enjoyed this video. I am especially interested in your universal cutting oil and will try to buy some. My favorite place - the shop in the winter and the garden in the summer. Thankyou for adding to the holidays and Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas Stefan a a very entertaining video 😁. For corrosion protection i use ACF 50, as i use it for my motorbike over the winter so have it to hand.
Thanks for the detailed video. Didn't know that about CDs and isopropyl alcohol, I always used that to clean them, but sounds like it doesn't affect them in that case. Should read up on that.. Interesting about the greases and such. Nice jigsaw too, I think I have the same one, it rocks!
1:01:40 Thank You Stefan. I lost my entire family at a very young age. I have no next of kin per say. A few cousins, one owens a large die-casting shop. My dad was Tool and Die at GM. One of the last things he said to me was "if you see a twist drill with made in Japan or Germany, buy it, they make good stuff" This was in 1975, I was 9 yr old. The rest fell soon after that. Thank You again! This video made my Christmas!
I approve of the inclusion of Coffee as an essential workshop fluid ☕
Stefan is not alone in the holidays , over 100,000 guest get to tour the bunker and enjoy a cup of coffee, maybe with a little something added.
I learned a trick for dealing with double sided tape recently that has made dealing with it so much easier. This is especially true for VHB tape, since it's able to stick so tenaciously to the backer tape.
Normally I'd cut a piece of tape off to the size I want, including the backer tape, apply the sticky side to my surface, then struggle with getting the backer tape off without ruining the double sided tape.
Now, instead of cutting the backer tape off, I just cut the tape itself, leaving the loose strip of backer tape connected to the roll, apply it to the surface, then just peel away the backer that's still attached to the roll.
It's hard to describe, but if you just adjust your practice to never cut the backer tape, it'll make sense. If the mess of backer tape gets too long you can shorten it up, just make sure to leave enough so that when you use the tape again you have some backer to pull on.
Thanks for thinking of those of us. It made today a little bit easier.
The first break of the CD was startling and fun to watch.
A Stefan's hour long video, best christmas gift
A solvent I use (carefully) is MG Chemicals 4140A Flux Remover. It's a mix of N-Heptane (non-polar hydrocarbon solvent, 25% by weight) & isopropyl alcohol (polar solvent, 75% by weight). Not particularly safe stuff, PPE required (see SDS, gloves (NOT latex rubber, PVA, or PVC, it'll dissolve them), protective clothing, P100 respirator with appropriate cartridges, & eye protection, use good ventilation), but it'll dissolve all sorts of gunk. Don't use on aluminum. The cool thing about it is it'll dissolve most glues. Stick some in a syringe and you can inject it into glue joints (carefully) to remove glued parts without damage.
The other nice thing to have is self-vulcanizing silicone rubber tape. It has *no* adhesive, instead you stretch it out & wrap it around something with decent overlap. It cross-links between the layers, forming a single piece of vulcanized silicone. Once bonded it won't unwrap without tearing or cutting. Usually rated to something like 8kV, also water-tight & resistant to all the same stuff silicone usually is. Way better than vinyl electrical tape.
Always interesting to see how people organize their workshops. It's also super awesome to see consumables featured. People often just show their tools. 👍
Thanks Stefan for remembering us solitary wierdos.
I'm on a vacation trip in Far-East Asia and between a trip at a museum and supper, that was a great video to watch!
37:53 some of us are really into viscosity… don’t kink shame 😊 But seriously, thanks for taking a moment to talk about self-care during this time of the year, especially for those of us who are spending the holidays alone. Merry Christmas!
Yep, I spend Christmas on my own in my workshop and enjoy it very much :)
1:30 Hell yeah, exactly how coffee is supposed to be. Quality milk really elevates the experience of a nice filter coffee.
That takes me back. "Tea, Earl Grey, Hot."
“Tea, Earl Grey, Hot!” 😄 Haven’t heard that recently. Happy New Year Stefan! 👍
7:00 I work at a place that has some polycarbonate boxes that are regularly cleaned with 70+ % IPA, they aren't under stress, but repeated exposure to alcohol inevitably leads to cracking, the theory is that it is absorbed, slightly, permeating deep into material slightly expanding it of course, and once the alcohol evaporates from the top layer, it wants to shrink back, but the subsurface still holds alco (and thus is in expanded state), so the shrinking top layer starts to develop micro fractures that then absorb more alco next time accelerating the whole process
Finally an episode where I have the things that you show. I do not have to worry about some new wonder tool, being used in some amazing fashion. In this episode, All I have to come to grips with is the underutilization of the stuff I have.,..... Keep up the great work, enjoy your holidays. Lift a glass of the good stuff with family and friends and may you have many happy returns. Merry Christmas
. .
I have coffee.. and salt... available to me ;)
Excellent video,Stefan and happy holidays.Thank you.
We used LPS by the pallet at the Boeing Company to treat the interior surfaces of fuselages. Frohe Weihnachten und ein glückliches Neues Jahr.
Thank you very much for your time.
All the best Stefan, you provide entertainment, inspiration and knowledge on a regular basis, which is appreciated.
The opening shot reminded me I should make me a cup of tea and biscuits before watching. Thanks!
Thank you Stefan... This was all very interesting including the time filling tour of the basement... I always enjoy your visits and you sense of humor.. Enjoy the holidays
Russ
Thanks for this excellent content Stefan. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Awesome content, one thing you may want to try is ATF (automatic transmission fluid) for flushing out and cleaning of bearing, gear housings, air cylinders or anything else that needs to be well protected from rust and also flushed out. It's fairly cheap light oil full of detergents, corrosion inhibitors and seal conditioners. I use it to flush out air system components like solenoids, it can wash out any crud, lubes up the bits and conditions the rubber seals inside. I use it as an alternative to WD40 type cleaners in a lot of situations as it cleans but also lubricates. Great video as always!
I add acetone to the tranny fluid, amazing penetration oil, takes heat with oil staying in place, not good for enclosed spaces without ventilation due to acetone.
Frohe Weinachten.
Thanks for the workshop insights. Some new content on Christmas Day is much appreciated.👍
Thanks also for your dedication throughout the year.
Nice Picard reference "Tea, Earl Grey, Hot" ^___^
that was great Stefan, will have to watch it several times to get all the details and tips .. hope you had a good christmas time and wishing you a happy and prosperous new year.
Those of us who need distraction at this time of year appreciate your effort.
Stefan , i wish you all the best for the upcoming year ! Best Regards Pirmin
Information: in Europa haben wir "Lub%care" von Brunox oder Bilt Hambert Wax beides in Spraydosen. Sehr ergiebig sehr gut für jahrelangen Schutz auch draussen.
Thanks Stefan and merry whatever you are doing :)
Hellow Stefan I will be 81 year's old in march I was a machinist and die maker for over 40 year's
I have to say I like the way you machine your part's and explain the way you do them thank you.
nice to see you keep some things simply simple... like the selection on cutting fluids... I have read a lot on YT as well as some forums why something needs to be like this and that and so on but sometimes keeping it simple is the best
totally different on lubricants as you said as well... there you have to use the right material for the right purpose... and yes, I got to see some tricks I might have to use soon once the next projects start
thx for this amazing video and have a nice end of 2023 Stefan 🤗
Grüße aus Niederösterreich 🤗
Today I Learned: Stefan has a two criteria system for everything he does: 1) Does it smell bad? 2) Everything else!! :)
One multi use chemical you may want to add to your list is automatic transmission fluid. It can be used to clean, and leave a protective coating on freshly machined surfaces and it works especially well on newly machined or honed cast iron and steel. In my experience it will last somewhere between 1-4 weeks before rust can begin to start forming depending on temp and humidity in the shop so it is good to have at the wash station or used as an in process cleaner where flash rusting may be a problem and leaving an oily surface for either the next stage or shipping will not be a problem.
14:50 I think lemonine would also work instead of the Shellsol T. I know it's a solvent for wax, but I don't know how well it would work with the Cosmoloid H80. It's not harmless either, but at least it would make the workshop smell like oranges while it dries. 😊
good video stefan..thanks for your time
All the best Stefan, thank you for the videos. Happy New Year to you.
Certainly enjoyed this! Always interesting to see new chemicals that could be helpful in my shop. Enjoy the Holidays and thanks for sharing!
For long term spray I use LU 710 from sprayon. Dries like a waxy cosmolin layer. Machines get wiped down with kerosene, and I use lighter fluid to lube my micrometers
Very informative, thanks.
A shop where I used to work had a waxy tapping paste from Jokisch. Being a union shop with an adolescent sense of humor we called it "jock itch."
Happy holidays and best wishes to you and yours! ⭐🙂👍
I'm in the intro and he says "brief" as I'm looking at a just over 1 hour video! Very nice tour and you answered a few of my questions on "stuff" you use in the shop!
Frohe Weihnachten Stefan!
37:50 is GREAT content Stefan! For me, a beginner, this is incredibly valuable. This video is GOLD. 43:00 great to hear you did some Warhammer :D
We love boeshield here for rust preventative. Great video. Someday i hope to set up a hobby shop. Inspirational videos are your specialty.
Thanks Stefan, appreciate the video and sentiments. Didn't see the replicator for the "Tea, Earl Grey, hot" down in the basement? LLAP.
Jokisch is indeed a very good "All purpose" Cutting fluid, we used it in the toolroom for all materials, Copper, brass, Steel, Toolsteel, it "ate" everything.
I now use "Rapid-Tap" because that is formulated to be used on titanium as well, and i machine mostly titanium..
As a machine Coolant, i use Kroon Oils EMTOR, which also works great on titanium, i do a lot of thread cutting on the lathe, and i just flood it with EMTOR..
Words of wisdom at the end there👍
Very thoughtful of you to add a bit of extra content as a Christmas bonus. have a great New Year!
Thank you. Enjoyed, always nice to see you. Well done 👍
Thank you for the video Stefan! May you have a prosperous and mostly content 2024!
Thanks Stefan!
That was just great, loads of info that interests me, the Jokisch Heavy duty cutting oil looks like something I need to replace the various cutting fluids I have, sort of a do it all. I also do a lot of modelling with plastics, so the acetone/baking soda info is invaluable, thanks. have a great Christmas, best regards, Dave
Thank you,and merry christmas and blessed new year!
Thank you for another year of excellent content! All the best to you for 2024 from Panama.
merry christmas and a happy new year stefan.
and thanks for al your content that you shared with us.
cheers ben.
Freu weihnachten Stefan! And thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. For someone like me who just started out in the tool & die world your channel is an absolute treasure!.
Thanks Stefan for the deep dive into the bowels of the shop and the consumables tour. Have a happy and safe holidays.
There are industrial detergents for AC systems, it degreases and mixes whit water. It even takes down some lower grade paints, water resistant markers.
Use glowes.
For temporery bonding engravers use stamping wax (once used for sealing documents), it disolves in 96% ethanol, hold extremly well and is cheap, kalaphonium resin is main engridient.
For easy diss and moisture protection of small threads you might laugh but nail polish works well.
Great to have a good engineer to listen to during lonesome Christmasses
Happy Holidays, Stefan!
You bring up spending time with the family this time of year and it is important, but sometimes afterwards it’s nice to unwind with something that you are interested in. I’m not being selfish, after spending the better part of the day listening and talking and being with your family, a little down time can reinvigorate and give you a second wind. Thanks for sharing, Merry Christmas to all and I hope your New Year is enjoyable.
Merry Christmas to you and your kleine Drehmaschine.🥰
Thank you, Stefan. Very useful for me.
And Merry Christmas.
Just curious: Are you using ISO 3509 coffee? And has it been tested according to DIN 10775?
🤓👍
Stefan, thanks for the run down of those chemicals you actually use. I have a wide array in all categories, but find I only use a handful on a regular basis, so I should probably get rid of the rest; however, I will probably hold on to the Lard Oil that I have had available for 50± years
I use the 3M 926 Transfer Tape, which has similar properties as the 467 tape but is reverse-wound so a special applicator (3M ATG 700) is required unless you want to make a mess. Most of the applications in my shop have been to attach large labels with photos to storage boxes (photos show the contents, both to help me remember what is in the box and how to fit everything back in the box so that the lid can be replaced). I have also used it when repairing/replacing laptop screens to re-attach the thin metal bezels: holds as well as the factory adhesive (which is probably a similar material).
Best regards, Charlie
[Sorry, almost forgot: frohes neues Jahr!]
I enjoyed this very much as all your fantastic films and work. Nice speech in the end, you're quite a philosopher. Have a great new years eve. Cheers from Sweden.
Thanks for the video! Just the right thing for the holidays!
I have the same bearing puller. I have scrapped countless pullers, this one "cheap" one has lasted for years now. Only the tip is a bit too soft. I will reinforce it when I get the time.
I wish you happy holidays!
Not sure how available fluid film is over there but I find it is a wonderful product for corrosion and lubrication and since it is lanolin based it smells good and has no skin issues.
Indeed an awesome Christmas gift! Thanks Stefan and a happy New year to everyone!
Thank you for great video, i enjoyed it a lot and learned a lot. Appreciate your work and knowledge sharing
Thanks stefan.
I use Boeshield for rust prevention -- It also dries to a thin wax coating but is not sticky. great for table saw, bandsaw or other machined cast iron surfaces and fine for aluminum -- it was engineered as a corrosion inhibitor for commercial airplanes-
Great shop chemicals tutorial. Thanks
Thanks, Stefan. Here's wishing you a very happy New Year.
Interested in the Samoa Hallbauer push-type oil gun. After much searching in UK I bought the best I could find but it didn't work. It was so air tight that after a couple of pushes no more oil would come out. It lacked a mechanism for admitting air to replace the expelled oil. So I put a one-way valve in the cap. But it then leaked everywhere. Yours is 04032 F60/3 suitable for grease and high viscosity oil. They also make a 05132 FO 180/3 which they say is "suitable for low viscosity oils". Sadly, none available in UK.
Stefan-
Thank you yet again. Lots of useful information, greatly appreciated. Gutes neu jahr!
Awesome. I have always experimented with different shop chemicals and materials. There are so many and they have their use. Trying different things is the best way to find what works best for you. Thank you.
The lidl de-greaser is also pretty good for cleaning machines and painted surfaces.
My new chemicals in the shop are alkalines, acids, salts etc. Electrochemistry is great! Nickel plating, copper plating, anodizing aluminium and titanium. A lot of fun and interesting.
Great content as always Stefan. An idea for another “quick” video in the new year - having just seen the old space, maybe an update on the new space, I must admit that I’ve kinda lost track of what machines that you have in there and what the layout is so a refresher would be a nice kickoff for 2024.
Love the channel, enjoy the break and looking forwards to what the new year brings you. ✌️
Stefan,
You might consider trying Starrett M1 in place or addition to LPS3.
I don't know how available M1 is in Germany, but it is considerably cheaper than LPS products, and it provides a protective film as well, just not as heavy as LPS3.
Protects against very well even out doors.
Comes in spray cans, but gallons are much cheaper, and pressure cans are cheap.
Tim
Thank you Stefan, now I know what is bad for health. I am interested to find more safe products to use, since with manual machines it is really difficult to mitigate exposure. Also using gloves and respirator is impractical. Safer products are a win.
Really appreciate the basement tour! A quick video about tumbling would be cool, bet you do things different from the last showoff in "machining assembly equipment"
Guter Rutsch!
“ Good party trick if you have people you don’t like”! 😮😂🤣
Awesome content as always, love looking around your shop and the metal protection methods you describe I will try and adopt.
Thanks for the video. Happy Holidays.
merry Christmas and thanks for the video
Merry Christmas and Happy 2024!
Danke, Stefan und ein Frohes Neues Jahr! 😁
Merry Christmas from Iowa, Thanks
Thanks for the video Stefan, Merry Christmas! Hope Weihnachtsmann brought you some nice machining tools (sorry if translation is wrong!)
For rust protection, you can try the wurth hss 100 drylube
I really enjoyed this video. I am especially interested in your universal cutting oil and will try to buy some. My favorite place - the shop in the winter and the garden in the summer. Thankyou for adding to the holidays and Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas Stefan a a very entertaining video 😁. For corrosion protection i use ACF 50, as i use it for my motorbike over the winter so have it to hand.
Acf 50 is nice because it's a lubricant and doesn't leave a waxy residue.
Thank you.
Thanks for the detailed video. Didn't know that about CDs and isopropyl alcohol, I always used that to clean them, but sounds like it doesn't affect them in that case. Should read up on that..
Interesting about the greases and such. Nice jigsaw too, I think I have the same one, it rocks!
20:49 - have you tried SKF LGLT2 ? it's a high speed grease good enough for 24K rpm spindle bearings. and it's cheap.
Interesting - No, I will have a look into it!
Checked several times throughout the day to see if there's anything:) thank you :) Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!