Stefan, I’m always impressed with your gift of teaching. Explaining in detail why and how you approach each design decision. Lots of tricks in every episode. Thank you!
I 3D printed this instead of machining from metal and it worked very well! Thanks for sharing your design. The only real change I needed to make was the angle of the dovetail slot to match my dial indicator.
Great video, I completed my holder and I am very happy with it. I made mine from brass and aluminium and its fine for my hobby machining. Thank you for posting the plans
Great practical design. This will be most beneficial to small milling machine users which are verti ally challenged 😁. Many thanks to Stefan for generously sharing his plans.
Thank you Stefan . This will help me out so much with my bench top mill . Started the build today . You are a legend for sharing the drawings . I don't have heat treat option so I will make the body from D2 and the holder from brass or bronze . Love it . Cheers and Happy new Year . Ade.
Fantastic squaring up technique. Every day is a school day. I also learned that cat food makes effective cutting fluid. Great video as ever. Many thanks.
I don't use a Heimer on a manual mill, but it's nice on a big CNC router, when the operator's console is 2 meters from the spindle. You can see it from that distance. Seeing your two-step method for squaring the fifth face was worth the price of admission.
Stefan: The trick I thought you were going to show us to deal with the situation at 11:48 is perhaps one you've mentioned another time, but in case you haven't, here goes: I quite often find I can hold a part like this (ie, where adjacent sides of the rectangle are not too unequal in length) between two V blocks of suitable size, stood on end with one end face (of at least one block) butted against the floor of the vice workspace. The blocks don't need to be the same size, and if they are, they don't need to be using the same size V . In case this description is confusing, the sides of the part, viewed from above, will all be at 45 degrees to the clamping faces of the vice jaws (which is not important), but (and this IS important) those same faces will all be vertical thanks to the precision of the end-grinding op when the V blocks were made, so the top end of the workpiece can now be facemilled and be squared-off as a result.
If the vice workspace does not have a flat floor in the right location for aligning the V blocks, I choose a thin parallel of the right size to lay on its side across the gap.
Very cool little instrument! I would like to have seen how some adjustments were made but your hand was in the way each time. Anyway, I love the innovation! 😊
I do have a coaxial indicator and have used it just twice in about ten years: once for aligning a fabricated cylinder block (whose bores were for pumping mashed potato, in a machine for putting swirly topping on little mince meat savoury pies) for boring. This required reaching deep down the rather small bores (which were not straight, not constant diameter, not truly circular and not strictly parallel to each other) and plotting the coordinates at the four quadrature points for each measurement station of each bore in order to arrive at a mean axis for all the bores. I had to do this to average the indidual mean bores and attach two datum origins to the fabrication so to be able to reorient the whole block so the bores would all clean up parallel to each other with the least possible material removal. My smallest indicator barely fitted in the bore, and the dial was facing the wall, not the opening, so I would have needed to buy a remote reading miniature probe. As the required accuracy was not high, the coaxial indicator (which come with long straight probes in addition to the more often used curved ones) was ideal and very easy to manipulate.
The second time was just a week or two ago. I used it to centre, in a four jaw independent chuck in a big lathe, a large fabrication which was going to require a steady for security, and hence the job could not safely be rotated for clocking up. I had to reach inside the hollow workpiece to true up an internal feature some distance from the opening. To do it with a DTI would have required mirrors and battery lights and rigging up some way of rotating the indicator truly, and without axial displacement, about the tailstock taper bore. The coaxial indicator, once again, was of suitable accuracy for the not very tighly toleranced machining operation, and was exactly suited for the job.
As I wrote the description above, I recalled a dodge I have used in the past for "rigging up some way of rotating an item truly, and without axial displacement, about the tailstock taper bore." It involved cutting the tang off the drill chuck taper shank, and retracting the tailstock until the ejector pin forces the taper to JUST release, and putting heavy way oil on the shank, makes an taper thrust bearing with radial play adjustable to effectively zero. I forget what I was doing. Possibly, power tapping a thread which needed to bottom out in a blind hole. (I now have a purpose built way of safely and conveniently doing this, which works up to about M24 in my biggest lathe provided I use serial taps)
Amazing tool that solves many issues I have found with height and offset problems . Thank you Stefan . You are an inspiration to so many people who love the detail. Cheers Ade.
Could you turn the handle into a set screw for the eccentric shaft? That seems like it'd solve the access to the screw issue that you're having. Neat project. I love seeing stuff like this.
The Haimer thingy seems like it would be great on a horizontal boring mill or other large machine where the parts are not usually held to micron tolerance. Nevertheless less many of us do not do work on the HBM. I use a combo of the rotating springy edge finder and I use the DTI to center up on bores and on occasion to find the edge. Nevertheless, I like the design and might build one some day when I have nothing better to attend to and get in the tool building mode. It happens now and then! Cheers
I'm going to have to build one of these! It's good to hear you rant about the Haimer indicator. I came to pretty much the same conclusion. Thanks for sharing.
to match the 12 deg ish angle I'd use the DTI as a angle block in the vise and machine the flat in the dovetail orientation as well. Just lazy me. THANKS FOR MAKING - as usual !
Stefan I have seen engravers mount the vise to old bowling ball and place the ball in center of small unmounted tire of the tube type from garden equipment.
Beautiful work Stefan! Did part 1 and 2 back to back. I'm guessing we will be seeing this tool often; it just looks too useful not to see frequent use.
Totally agree with your rant about the Haimer. Adjusting runout on them is very touchy and they don't stay calibrated. The Tschorn 3D tester is somewhat better, but still difficult to adjust runout, and takes a lot of Z-height.
Hi Stefan, at about 1:06:00 min of play, curiosity? Is it the camera angle or is the actual dial pin bent while trying to center your guage? Actual dial pin of the guage looked bent to me while rotating. I also enjoy watching your video's.
Beautiful work as always - would version 2.1 have a worm-drive adjustment for the eccentric? 😄 Btw i really love the sprinkling of shop knowledge throughout a practical video, very cool. 👌🏻
I justify my manual machine hoarding too by using the solar flare analogy. "Sorry, I can't get rid of this 1950s lathe; it's my post-apocalyptic survival kit!"
Thanks Stephan. Excellent... Just slightly worried that the excentric pin will turn unintentionally over time especially if the machine spindle is stiff to rotate ? Thanks again 🇬🇧
just a thought for a potential V2 of this, instead of using a bolt at the bottom to clamp the eccentric shaft, make another split cut in line with the DTI, that way all your clamping adjustments are on the side and you avoid the obstruction problems when adjusting for center line.
Stefan, for a fine adjust could you bore the handle stud right through so a threaded bar bears on the dovetail clamp, ie twist the handle to fine adjust
Looking at the final design, and how you use it, you could shave off 3-5mm in hight, and make it even slimmer. other than that, great work, I'll make two for myself now
Stefan, what brand is your magnetic wise... er.. Vice? that looks like its very strong even when the magnet is "off". my old brown and sharp is week in comparison.
Thanks so much Stefan, I have ordered some Toolox 33 steel, and downloaded your PDF drawings. This is very kind of you to share this with us! Is there a way I can show you my finished holder once it's done? I guess Insta PM? I was very intrigued with your opinion of the Hamier, that's the tool i use for my Syil X7 CNC Mill. I guess I'll carry on using it for Opp1 from stock, but use a DTI for further opp's and get even better location. How do you rate the coaxial meters with the arm sweeping a bore or boss? As everyone else says, thank you so much for your time in making videos, you, Joe Pie and Robin have taught me so much! Thank you sir!
You don't need to take his word about the Haimer. You can do your own tests and measure and see how it comes out. I use mine all the time and achieve very good results with it. I can work to a standard of less than .001" (.025mm) with it in my VMC. The speed at which it works is easily its greatest feature. If you're making parts for industry it is phenomenal. If you're making tool and die parts, it still has its place, you just need to play to its strengths and use other tools as necessary.
moderndaytinker here I see you haven't gotten yourself a hand held demagnetizer yet.😮 Very handy , and they don't over magnetize the tools, as your big bench one sometimes can.(if you aren't careful when pulling it away)
Stefan, the knurled knob is begging for a pinion to mate with a rack in the slide much like that on a microscope focus. Just to make it more complicated. :)
Hi Stefan. Thank you for your opinion on the Haimer 3D tester. I was kinda wanting one but not anymore 😅. I have a Haimer coaxial indicator the Haimer centro its a very well made tool. I like it a lot. What is your opinion of these Centricator type centering tools?
Stephan, when finish grinding your dimensions of the block, you never showed the finish dimension measurements themselves or what tool used to determine finish size. Were the finish sizes determined by always removing the block from the chuck, and then measured? Or, could the finish dimensions be determined while on the chuck, without removal, say with a depth mike down to the mag chuck face?
When you grinding to size, are you measuring the part prior to touch off, then grinding off the difference. Or, do you have some way of offsetting from the chuck face?
so for the people who use regular 60 degree triangular files to make the dove tails... the name of those special files is called 'Barrette file' right? sounds kindda worth it imho. to go and buy one of those. i also came across another triangle file, that has the 3 different coarse / fine / bs aggressive cutting, 1 pitch on each side. another cool sounding idea. to then just keep on rotating the same file in same hands. until finish is met.... [edit] what they call that one? '3-cut file' it seems to be the english name.
"I could safe the World with a 6mm End Mill" 😅 31:53
I know quite well it's the point, but listening to that indicator noise during your rant made me wince instantly.
Stefan, I’m always impressed with your gift of teaching. Explaining in detail why and how you approach each design decision. Lots of tricks in every episode. Thank you!
Today's words of wisdom: "You can't cut yourself in CAD."
There, the pain is emotional
Hold my beer...
😂
The box cutters used for cardboard aided design are sharp.
... but you can cut corners, though you shouldn't 🤔
That squaring technique at 14:30... very clever. Someone had their thinking cap on that day.
Stefan, Thank you for sharing the build drawing for this tool. Very nicely designed. Simple and elegant.
I 3D printed this instead of machining from metal and it worked very well! Thanks for sharing your design. The only real change I needed to make was the angle of the dovetail slot to match my dial indicator.
Great video, I completed my holder and I am very happy with it. I made mine from brass and aluminium and its fine for my hobby machining. Thank you for posting the plans
I made one tòo, but am adding a fine adjust screw, just because I could.
@@chrisstephens6673getting fancy with it
Great practical design. This will be most beneficial to small milling machine users which are verti ally challenged 😁.
Many thanks to Stefan for generously sharing his plans.
Very excellent. And "today I feel like milling". I know what you mean. Thanks again Stefan!
Interesting take on this measuring issue.
I do have a Heimer and it does work well. I suppose everyone has their own quirks with measuring equipment.
Absolutely a very personal thing, if it works for you, who would I be to tell you to not use it :-D
Very enjoyable watch took me two coffees and delayed my heavy Springtime gardening 😁
Thank you Stefan . This will help me out so much with my bench top mill . Started the build today . You are a legend for sharing the drawings . I don't have heat treat option so I will make the body from D2 and the holder from brass or bronze . Love it . Cheers and Happy new Year . Ade.
Thanks Stefan. I already have the drawings but I'll probably make mine from aluminium, anodised of course.😊
Fantastic squaring up technique. Every day is a school day. I also learned that cat food makes effective cutting fluid.
Great video as ever. Many thanks.
😂
I don't use a Heimer on a manual mill, but it's nice on a big CNC router, when the operator's console is 2 meters from the spindle. You can see it from that distance.
Seeing your two-step method for squaring the fifth face was worth the price of admission.
The #1 most important machinst tool: the Mk1 eyeball! Thanks for demonstrating it, Stefan! ⭐🙂👍
Cool idea on the marker and yes - I think about EMP/Solar flares too.
Stefan: The trick I thought you were going to show us to deal with the situation at 11:48 is perhaps one you've mentioned another time, but in case you haven't, here goes: I quite often find I can hold a part like this (ie, where adjacent sides of the rectangle are not too unequal in length) between two V blocks of suitable size, stood on end with one end face (of at least one block) butted against the floor of the vice workspace.
The blocks don't need to be the same size, and if they are, they don't need to be using the same size V .
In case this description is confusing, the sides of the part, viewed from above, will all be at 45 degrees to the clamping faces of the vice jaws (which is not important), but (and this IS important) those same faces will all be vertical thanks to the precision of the end-grinding op when the V blocks were made, so the top end of the workpiece can now be facemilled and be squared-off as a result.
If the vice workspace does not have a flat floor in the right location for aligning the V blocks, I choose a thin parallel of the right size to lay on its side across the gap.
I started wondering what you were on about but when you showed this compared to that long junk indicator things made a lot of sense.
Nice project. Your English is very good too.
Thank you!
I'll be making one of these. But with an adjustment screw to move the dti along the slot. Thanks for your work and inspiration.
Fine tool. 1 remark: I use a fine needle wire bruch (mounted on a bench grinder) to debure all corners
Very cool little instrument!
I would like to have seen how some adjustments were made but your hand was in the way each time.
Anyway, I love the innovation! 😊
Very nice.. I like the ball or knob addition.
I do have a coaxial indicator and have used it just twice in about ten years: once for aligning a fabricated cylinder block (whose bores were for pumping mashed potato, in a machine for putting swirly topping on little mince meat savoury pies) for boring.
This required reaching deep down the rather small bores (which were not straight, not constant diameter, not truly circular and not strictly parallel to each other) and plotting the coordinates at the four quadrature points for each measurement station of each bore in order to arrive at a mean axis for all the bores.
I had to do this to average the indidual mean bores and attach two datum origins to the fabrication so to be able to reorient the whole block so the bores would all clean up parallel to each other with the least possible material removal.
My smallest indicator barely fitted in the bore, and the dial was facing the wall, not the opening, so I would have needed to buy a remote reading miniature probe. As the required accuracy was not high, the coaxial indicator (which come with long straight probes in addition to the more often used curved ones) was ideal and very easy to manipulate.
The second time was just a week or two ago. I used it to centre, in a four jaw independent chuck in a big lathe, a large fabrication which was going to require a steady for security, and hence the job could not safely be rotated for clocking up. I had to reach inside the hollow workpiece to true up an internal feature some distance from the opening. To do it with a DTI would have required mirrors and battery lights and rigging up some way of rotating the indicator truly, and without axial displacement, about the tailstock taper bore. The coaxial indicator, once again, was of suitable accuracy for the not very tighly toleranced machining operation, and was exactly suited for the job.
As I wrote the description above, I recalled a dodge I have used in the past for "rigging up some way of rotating an item truly, and without axial displacement, about the tailstock taper bore."
It involved cutting the tang off the drill chuck taper shank, and retracting the tailstock until the ejector pin forces the taper to JUST release, and putting heavy way oil on the shank, makes an taper thrust bearing with radial play adjustable to effectively zero.
I forget what I was doing. Possibly, power tapping a thread which needed to bottom out in a blind hole. (I now have a purpose built way of safely and conveniently doing this, which works up to about M24 in my biggest lathe provided I use serial taps)
Super cool video as usual, thanks Stephan
Thanks Stefan, as you know I appreciate your cerebral video content! 👍
Thank you very much :)
I agree with you Stefan, the 1/4” endmill is the most versatile endmill out there! 😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉
You have an exquisite method to you're madness... I love that little mill, I wish I could get my hands on one here in Alberta, Canada..... CHEERS
For the vise project, perhaps a kugelhantel would be a convenient piece of rough stock?
Man, I said it before and I'll say it again: Just love your manual work! Thanks.
👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome design! This is the first time I was compelled to download the drawings, and I've watched a fare amount of maker videos.
Amazing tool that solves many issues I have found with height and offset problems . Thank you Stefan . You are an inspiration to so many people who love the detail. Cheers Ade.
Awesome build Stefan, love how compact it is, and the fitment of all the parts is chefs kiss :)
Could you turn the handle into a set screw for the eccentric shaft? That seems like it'd solve the access to the screw issue that you're having.
Neat project. I love seeing stuff like this.
At 41:30 ish, you said something about tuning up an edge finder. Either I haven't found that video of yours yet or it doesn't exist. Please advise.
Excellent way to top off a weekend. Much appreciated.
So much great information in this, thank you!!
great tool I have started to make one of these for my shop thank you for sharing with us.
Enjoyed your discussion/demonstration/build along with your continued mentorship
The Haimer thingy seems like it would be great on a horizontal boring mill or other large machine where the parts are not usually held to micron tolerance. Nevertheless less many of us do not do work on the HBM. I use a combo of the rotating springy edge finder and I use the DTI to center up on bores and on occasion to find the edge. Nevertheless, I like the design and might build one some day when I have nothing better to attend to and get in the tool building mode. It happens now and then! Cheers
Excellent, many thanks for the effort to film, edit, share!
Another perfect Saturday afternoon spent in the company of Stefan. Where did the last hour and a quarter go? Flew by for me - completely engrossed.
Thank you Stefan for the two part build and access to the drawings. 👍👍
I'm going to have to build one of these! It's good to hear you rant about the Haimer indicator. I came to pretty much the same conclusion. Thanks for sharing.
Super cool squaring technique, I love you man!
Roger from Calgary.
Great video,Stefan.Thank you.
@ 46:20 Hey Stefan have you ever seen a slitting saw that doesn't lope like that? All of mine do and with different holders.
to match the 12 deg ish angle I'd use the DTI as a angle block in the vise and machine the flat in the dovetail orientation as well. Just lazy me.
THANKS FOR MAKING - as usual !
Very good option too, yep!
Stefan I have seen engravers mount the vise to old bowling ball and place the ball in center of small unmounted tire of the tube type from garden equipment.
How about a knurled knob for the shank screw as well as a knurled flange on the shank for adjustment. I imagine you'd be able to adjust with one hand.
Thank you for a great, informative video!
Agree completely re the Haimer! I gave up centering it, and ended up making a deviation table for X-Y probing, but then only use it for rough work.
You could use a captive grub screw as a worm gear for adjusting the eccentricity
That is a VERY NEAT idea! And the correct sized tap as a hob for the wheel. Thanks!
Beautiful work Stefan! Did part 1 and 2 back to back. I'm guessing we will be seeing this tool often; it just looks too useful not to see frequent use.
Just SUPER !! thank you !!! best regards Steve
Sorry you had to scrap a part.... ! But thanks for doing the work with a camera, so the we can come along for the ride and LEARN.... Good Work!!
I think a rack & pinion fine adjustment would be a neat addition to mk2
flexture would make more sense if you don't need a lot of travel
Totally agree with your rant about the Haimer. Adjusting runout on them is very touchy and they don't stay calibrated. The Tschorn 3D tester is somewhat better, but still difficult to adjust runout, and takes a lot of Z-height.
Hi Stefan, at about 1:06:00 min of play, curiosity? Is it the camera angle or is the actual dial pin bent while trying to center your guage? Actual dial pin of the guage looked bent to me while rotating.
I also enjoy watching your video's.
We are all looking forward to Pt.2. Thank you👍👌🇦🇺
All tools have there uses, this one is great and many uses, nice job.
Maybe as a alternative to an ancient cannon ball you can use a throwing weight used by shot put guys?
Thank you Stefan!
Beautiful work as always - would version 2.1 have a worm-drive adjustment for the eccentric? 😄
Btw i really love the sprinkling of shop knowledge throughout a practical video, very cool. 👌🏻
I justify my manual machine hoarding too by using the solar flare analogy. "Sorry, I can't get rid of this 1950s lathe; it's my post-apocalyptic survival kit!"
Thanks Stephan. Excellent... Just slightly worried that the excentric pin will turn unintentionally over time especially if the machine spindle is stiff to rotate ? Thanks again 🇬🇧
looks good, and for the ball vise you were talking about, why not use a dumbell as a rough blank vs an old cannon ball?
very god job stefan..thanks for your time
I liked this video very much and I would love to see how this peace looks wen it,s back fome plasma nitride. 😊
I will do a quick followup video when the parts are back :-)
Well done Stefan and thanks for sharing.
The man who never made a mistake, never made anything !,,,,,No worries, theres plenty of time.
Very very nice Tool thanks for the video
What a lovely craft ❤
How do you like the Garant Xtric 80s vise?
Any videos of the Erowa style ITS workholding in the future.
Excellent Video
just a thought for a potential V2 of this, instead of using a bolt at the bottom to clamp the eccentric shaft, make another split cut in line with the DTI, that way all your clamping adjustments are on the side and you avoid the obstruction problems when adjusting for center line.
Stefan, for a fine adjust could you bore the handle stud right through so a threaded bar bears on the dovetail clamp, ie twist the handle to fine adjust
I snapped a Starrett fine center punch doing that exact thing with a parallel jaw clamp. Hurt to see that.
When i grew up i want to be like Stefan
i might not be a good role model :D
Looking at the final design, and how you use it, you could shave off 3-5mm in hight, and make it even slimmer. other than that, great work, I'll make two for myself now
Stefan, what brand is your magnetic wise... er.. Vice? that looks like its very strong even when the magnet is "off". my old brown and sharp is week in comparison.
Thanks so much Stefan, I have ordered some Toolox 33 steel, and downloaded your PDF drawings. This is very kind of you to share this with us! Is there a way I can show you my finished holder once it's done? I guess Insta PM?
I was very intrigued with your opinion of the Hamier, that's the tool i use for my Syil X7 CNC Mill. I guess I'll carry on using it for Opp1 from stock, but use a DTI for further opp's and get even better location. How do you rate the coaxial meters with the arm sweeping a bore or boss?
As everyone else says, thank you so much for your time in making videos, you, Joe Pie and Robin have taught me so much! Thank you sir!
You don't need to take his word about the Haimer. You can do your own tests and measure and see how it comes out. I use mine all the time and achieve very good results with it. I can work to a standard of less than .001" (.025mm) with it in my VMC. The speed at which it works is easily its greatest feature.
If you're making parts for industry it is phenomenal. If you're making tool and die parts, it still has its place, you just need to play to its strengths and use other tools as necessary.
I have a tool makers milling machine and want to know how u you align the dividing attachment .
I thought of using a mt4 test bar and dti
moderndaytinker here
I see you haven't gotten yourself a hand held demagnetizer yet.😮
Very handy , and they don't over magnetize the tools, as your big bench one sometimes can.(if you aren't careful when pulling it away)
18:04 close enough. You didn’t cheated and adjusted the micrometer? 😅
Stefan, the knurled knob is begging for a pinion to mate with a rack in the slide much like that on a microscope focus. Just to make it more complicated. :)
Thank you again for all the shop tips/knowledge you disseminate on your channel. TH-cam would suck without you.
“That’s my 50 cents.” covers inflation very nicely.
If a solar flar hit my shop I could still do my work .lol 😊
Hi Stefan. Thank you for your opinion on the Haimer 3D tester. I was kinda wanting one but not anymore 😅. I have a Haimer coaxial indicator the Haimer centro its a very well made tool. I like it a lot. What is your opinion of these Centricator type centering tools?
Stephan, when finish grinding your dimensions of the block, you never showed the finish dimension measurements themselves or what tool used to determine finish size.
Were the finish sizes determined by always removing the block from the chuck, and then measured?
Or, could the finish dimensions be determined while on the chuck, without removal, say with a depth mike down to the mag chuck face?
When you grinding to size, are you measuring the part prior to touch off, then grinding off the difference. Or, do you have some way of offsetting from the chuck face?
Awesome stuff Captain. I am for sure going to try and make one. Any chance on a CAD model for this bad boy?
“It’s not a very precision feature, but it’s within .0001 micron”
Strange coincidence inv tan of 11.26 degrees is 0.2 to 3 sig fig ie slope of 1:5. had the sine bar been 50mm it would have shown up straight away.😀
"super simple plates with holes. We have enough of that engineering." I feel seen. XD
so for the people who use regular 60 degree triangular files to make the dove tails... the name of those special files is called 'Barrette file' right? sounds kindda worth it imho. to go and buy one of those.
i also came across another triangle file, that has the 3 different coarse / fine / bs aggressive cutting, 1 pitch on each side. another cool sounding idea. to then just keep on rotating the same file in same hands. until finish is met.... [edit] what they call that one? '3-cut file' it seems to be the english name.
Ein Kupfer dorn funktioniert natürlich auch, sonst gibt es auch rückschlagfreie dorne.