Lifted! King Springs 2 inch Front & 1 inch rear HGT Next Gen Raptor Ranger Build!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2023
- We lift our Next Gen Ranger Raptor, AKA “the Donkey”. Why lift the next gen Raptor ranger, isn’t the suspension already perfect? Yes it is. This project is always going to be a risk.
Do you need the height for big tyres? NO! Is it low? Also no! Does the suspension under preform? No, in fact it’s almost too good. So why lift the Raptor Ranger?
For me I wanted a little more height and as superficial as this is it’s mainly for looks. But I’m going to tell you it’s for clearance. And in the rear to be able to hold weight better.
The next gen raptor rangers already come with fox 2.5” body live valved shocks. These shock absorbers are absolutely amazing and really top tier in the suspension world. On top of that they have live valving on each with sensors at each corner making millions of adjustments every time you drive. Really other than that of a trophy truck it’s probably the best suspension that money can buy.
Needless to say the shocks are staying and we are just going to change out the springs. Now there are a few ways to lift and level your next gen ranger raptor. Struts pacers in the front. Spring seat spacers in the front and replacing the springs like I did.
Strut spacers definitely have their place on a ranger raptor. The main benefit is they create a little more room when the front suspension is fully compressed. If you want to fit a 35” tyre you definitely need to go this way. One thing we know from the 60 XPLR raptor is 35” tyres will hit the guards under full compression if you don’t create the clearance.
Spring seat spacers or spring perch collars -these just raise the lower spring seat and compress the spring essentially pre loading the coil to create lift. Without changing the spring rate I do believe it’s not a bad option in theory. But I also haven’t tried them so I can’t be 100% certain. Having the shock sit higher in the stroke may affect the internal bypassing that these shocks have.
Replacing the springs - the option I went with. Changing spring rates making it sit higher, also the coil length appears slightly longer this obviously will lift your raptor ranger. This gives the ability to balance out weight of accessories i.e. bullbars winches etc. As with the spring seat spacers having the shock sit higher in the stroke may affect the internal bypassing that these shocks have.
I went to The 4x4 Centre and got the boys to do this job for me. For two main reasons. I don’t have a spring compressor strong enough to compress a 4wd coil and they have the software to be able to recalibrate the raptor rangers fox live valving sensors.
The King Springs for the next gen raptor ranger lift it 2n1. That’s 2” in the front and 1” in the rear. What we found is it was around 18mm in the rear and 40mm in the front achieved. I believe this is mainly because my raptor had only travelled about 200 km at the time and the factory springs hadn’t truly settled in to their position. Overall this is a subtle lift, just big enough to tell it’s not the standard height. I really like how it sits now.
But how does it preform? It’s still really good, slightly stiffer than standard. Driving before the live valve recalibration you can definitely notice a difference once it’s done.
Would I do it again? In all honesty I think it actually would be better in the front with strut spacers. Not because this is bad just because the factory set up is pretty much perfect. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks for your honest review! Really helps just picked up my new 2024 raptor
Cheers mate✌️ you’ll love it, it’s one of the funnest cars I’ve owned
Great video mate and thank you for being so honest about your experience and the pro’s and cons, and about how you feel spacers are the go.
I haven’t even noticed mine sagging I’m going to measure mine now I have the Ute master load lid on the back but I’m just running stock rims but swapped out the KO2’s for Trail Terrains which are a bit better on road (not much though and I lose a bit of the chunky tyre factor).
Thanks for sharing your experience
Cheers mate ✌️
I am still undecided what route I want to go down... I'm just so happy with how it performs out of the box, will probably need springs in the rear if I go with a canopy setup, thanks for another informative video mate
It’s a hard one because it is so good standard 🙌 I’d say if you’re going a canopy you’ll definitely need something in the back.
This will be the only 4by that I don’t touch the suspension at all. Only thing I will change is a tune, probably some spotties behind the grill, and a herrod tune. Oh and tyres when it needs it. But honestly these will do 95% of tracks in Aus stock.
What wheel and tyre package are you running on? This looks fantastic.
Great video mate, thanks for sharing. Can i confirm that recalibration of the live valve is needed with a spacer or only springs ? Cheers in advance
Would also love a answer to this one
If I want to get a bull bar and winch and upgrade the springs should I upgrade the back springs ?
Had mine lifted and revalved buy a certain shock shop and I’m having it put back to factory and have spacers waiting to go in. Definitely recommend just spacers
is that a waste of money for you then or will the shop refund you when swapped out for spacers?
@@Portyhouse they are putting it back for free but I’m out what it cost originally. I’m just happy for the chiropractor bills it’ll save me
I did hear that about a certain shock shop. I was hoping for great things from them, I was very disappointed especially considering the price.
Great vidoe and doing another vidoe when there is some weight in it or if you fit a bar to it cheers
Cheers mate✌️Definitely I will do an update vid on the 60xplr rig soon
I'm thing on 35s, using 2.5" spacers in the front and 1" in the back. Also looking for some goods rins with deadlock, regarding this, what offset do you recommend to have in order to fit 35s? Any beadlock rins to recomend?
Hey mate
How did you calibrate the ride height?
hi my friends I regularly follow your videos on the ford raptor myself owner in France of se model I asked you a question but I didn't get an answer from you!! I wanted to know what type of lifting block you had placed at the front of the raptor to raise it by 25 mm because all the ones I received did not correspond, thank you for your answer
Hi mate. What the live valve recalibration done via forscan?
How are the springs holding up??
Great video, only reason why I won't get the Raptor is becasue I have a 7.5m boat. Wonder if there is an upgrade to the suspension to allow the Raptor to tow 3.5T? I just need any excuse 😂
🤣🤣 I have heard whispers that there are a few mobs trying to make gvm upgrades. I guess at the end of the day they really didn’t make these to tow
Great vid mate, and using a professional with the right knowledge is the way to go. Could you please advise the name of the business that did this work for you. cheers.
This is The 4x4 Centre in the Hunter Valley. Really good bunch of guys down there
Probably the only time I've ever thought spacers is the right thing, if you do go 35'" tyres
I know right 🤣. I can 100% confirm it too. We had some slight issues with the first raptor 🤣
is the lift and tyres legal in NSW?
Great Video! Got mine coming in a month and contemplating similar…
Quick question - what length is the garage? How much clearance do you have from the garage door to number plate?
its about 5800 and around 100mm i moved one of the support braces on my door up about 5 years ago though
Another great vid!! With 2 inch in the front and 1 in the back does that have it sitting slightly ass down?
Cheers mate. It’s pretty level. Maybe ass up just a touch
What brand of spacer is he using at the shop and do they still need the stud chopped? Also what program is he using to reset the shock heights
Great video mate!
Thanks mate. They’re using a ATI spacer atm. They’re one of the better quality ones I’ve seen with through pins instead of just screw in studs. With the studs on these things the do need to be trimmed. But that is no different to putting strut spacers on any strut top. It’s only once you start using a much larger spacer you don’t need to chop the studs. The recalibration is just done with forscan
I've added rear air bags and the rear is very stiff even when deflated. Thinking now I need Rear Constant load springs - 300kgs (no lift needed) - Have canopy, drawers, long range tank and 40L water tank and rear sags. Thoughts?
In all honesty it sounds like too much permanent weight, these things just aren’t designed to carry much. The springs are probably a better option. The air bags will stiffen everything because that’s what they’re designed to do
@@HappyGoTravel any recommendations for someone in Melbourne that works with Raptors?
@@Stubbyholder999 I don’t really know Melbourne all to well on track 4x4 is the only real shop that comes to mind, but that’s because of my y62 days
Who did it for you?
If you add a strut spacer, shouldn’t you increase the bump stop height? Or is it ok to just add the strut spacer ?
These things actually have a bump on top of the shock. There’s no additional bump stop so the shock does all the work. Thats why you can add a strut spacer with no issues
Bro anyone in Adelaide that could do the rear springs and front spacer?
When the ride height is re calibrated is the maximum droop reduced to allow the controller to stiffen the shocks to the same level for a jump as an example?
They don’t top out or bottom as the internal valving still manages what the piston is actually doing in the stroke. The live valving zero point being reset just makes the live valving tighten when needed
Pros and cons of a higher and wider stance ?
Isn't if affecting handling, cornering, mileage ... ?
Off-road things mainly, slightly more clearance, wider offset keeps you off the banks. Mileage-no handling and cornering - yes but not enough to be concerned about
@@HappyGoTravel thanks for the rep mate, i'm quite new to these things so still considering to trade off between comfort/ handling and aesthetic looks/ more off-road capabilities
When mine comes in, I want to run the factory bead lock wheels, but with a 37x12.5” tire.
This will be complicated, if it even can be done, but I want to be prepared. I have a little time with the ford strike bc it’s delaying my build.
What would you suggest would all need to be done in order to run a 37x12.5” tire on factory bead lock wheels and level? Or do you even think it can be done?
I appreciate any advice/help. There isn’t much out on lifting these 2024’s yet and I live in the states, so there are none around yet.
PS:
I appreciate all the videos you all are putting out from across the world.
Cheers mate. I’m not entirely sure what the offset of the factory beadlock wheels is. You’ll not want to increase the offset to much with the tyre increase being so large. What we found with the 35’s on +18 is it pushes out almost too far to be practical. So assuming the bead lock offset is not much more than the standard wheels it’ll probably be the best option.
Spacers will definitely be best option because 35s hit the guards on springs. So 37s will definitely clean up everything in their way. If you look at the vid we did on 35’s you’ll need to make all the same clearances. You should be able to pull the castor forward to help as well.
I’m keen as to see the stuff that comes out of the states for them. I’m hoping for big things bar work wise. I’m waiting to see what pre runner style bars ADD have in the works
@@HappyGoTravel Thank you for the advice! That helps a lot! I’m interested to see what all comes out as well. Hopefully tons of accessories will be available soon!
How'd you end up going?
@@LucaBrasi125 my truck finally came in about 3 weeks ago after waiting a full year. All I’ve done is put a backflip bed cover and bed carpet in so far.
I did change my mind to going with a 35x12.5 BF Goodrich KO2 White letter tire(when I start that build).
Theres not much info (options) out yet (basically nothing in the states).
I’m planning to raise the front end 4” (10cm) and the rear 2” (5cm). That will most likely mean King Springs on front and rear with either a perch collar also on the front or spacer on top of the shock (I’ve read all the info on both, i understand risks vs benifits, but I’m going to be real, it’s going to be a pavement princess for now, I have an old 77 ford for my off road fun for now).
I switched my build after I made my first post on here to regular stock wheels, so my plan is to also put a wheel spacer (1”/2.5cm) to bring the offset out just enough for clearance).
If I don’t like it when it’s all done, I’ll try something else.
If I start off roading the hell out of it, I’ll switch it all back to stock for that most likely.
hi nice videos so you think it is better to change the spring rather than install a lifting wedge for lifting? since you changed the springs it might be firmer at the front now?
Cheers mate. I think the strut spacer is the way to go if you’re not doing a bar on the front
@@HappyGoTravel ok tell me where you live in australia see you have more. accessory seller in France, do you know a dealer in your country who just sells spacers to install on the original shock absorbers? THANKS
@@navarrolaurent7548 in the Hunter Valley. They are called a strut spacer. Every 4wd shops here have them. They are essentially an alloy ring that bolts in between the strut top and strut tower. Just keep in mind because of the fulcrum point on the lca the hight of the strut spacer doubles in actual lift. So a 25mm spacer will achieve around 50mm of lift
@@HappyGoTravel ah ok the best would be to have a 20 mm spacer to obtain 4 cm of additional height? I will receive my raptor next week, the same as yours, it is white, I don’t know the difference in height between the back and the front!! I had already installed it on my Silverado at the front quite simple to install however I think that on the Ford it is necessary to redo the alignment of the wheels for cambering?
@@navarrolaurent7548 yep that’s the go 20mm will level it out nicely. yeah definitely worth getting an alignment after lifting
Are they ko2s or ko3s on there?
They’re just the KO2s that come with it
KO3's not in Australia yet.
Am I the only one that can't understand half what this guy says?