For real, I was shocked at the results I found. I expected a little drip or maybe a small amount of crud. Do you think it will fix the carbon issues? Let me know in the comments.
HumbleMechanic what year is your wife's Tiguan? I'm looking to instal one on my wife's 2012 Tiguan TSI AWD. Can you point me in the direction to where you bought the can?
This is a 2015. The 2012 will be exactly the same. Here is how to install it. There is a little trimming you need to do on the bracket, but it's not bad. Here is the one I have I think. I can't remember which of the two I have HAHA. ~ store.blackforestindustries.com/bficcacroils1.html
I to get about a cup every 3000 miles out of my 2017 ford focus ST catch can. I also run a can of CRC intake valve cleaner every 10,000 miles in the intake and between the two I think it’s gonna go along way to help keep the valves clean. Thanks for sharing!
Just tore the pcv diaphragm last week and replaced it for like $20 on my 2011 gti. This makes me want a catch can sooooo badly. Good work Charles keep it up I love watching your videos.
I have a 2011 GTI and installed the ECS tuning catch can. In the cold weather months, I empty my catch can every 300 miles. With my long commute, I empty out the can every three days. There is a huge concern with the catch can system freezing and blocking the air way which will cause series problems with the engine.
In cold temperatures it's a great idea to empty this DAILY. Mine gets up to half full on a daily basis in the winters (-15 to 30 degree F weather). Don't let it freeze in there! You don't want excess pressure put onto the crank seal. EDIT: by crank seal I mean Rear Main Seal.
I believe it does help a lot. Every 3,000 miles I drain it and every 10,000 i clean the filter (mashimoto oil Catch can). I also noticed that I'm running a bit better in performance. I dont think itll solve the problem but having that oil catch can helps by not burning that oil in the engine and coming out the exhaust. It even smells like gas when you drain it.
Watching this video just sold me on catch cans. I've been researching the hell out of the subject and think it would be good to have one on my G8 that has a direct injection 3.6 V6. I was shocked at the amount of stuff that came out of that catch can! Thank you for the video.
I've run a catch can on my cammed/tuned 2010 Challenger SRT8 for about 7 years. The can catches straight oil vapor and never ever catches/condenses water vapor into water in any way. The oil in the can looks pure enough to dump back into the engine... although I always dispose of it. This is a very popular mod in the Modern Mopar community and I imagine it is as much so among other car enthusiasts. It ranks up there with CAIs and exhaust catbacks as a mod highly contested as to whether or not it actually ads power. It is my understanding a CC can marginally improve horsepower of an engine by reducing the *slight* timing retardation that can occur when oil vapor passes by various sensors. Particularly the sensor in the intake tube just before the Throttle Body. How much more power? Nothing you can feel for sure and likely nothing measurable on a Dyno. At the very least, the the interior of my intake manifold is noticeably cleaner; a shallow pool of oil is common to find in the rear of a Modern Mopar V8 but the CC stops that. Great short video!
Yes catch can's do work for Shure I've had mine on for 15.000 miles emptied it twice and got yellow brownish Gunk out that would have gone in my engine. Thanks for a great vid
Installed a catch can on my Fiesta ST. Its a low mileage motor but I still get some oil collection in mine. Mine was much more oily than what you got out but I did think the oil looked a little watery. I got no where near a cup last time I checked however. Looks like that car is driven on a lot of short trips where you will have more condensation left in the engine.
I agree, and if you ask any old timer about decarboning an engine they will tell you to get it hot and pour water down the intake while running. Small amounts at a time. Just like an induction service is done.
Just in the process of building mine for my GTI 7.5 one important issue ,VW say keep the pipes BIG as smaller pipes and fittings restrict flow and will move air to fast though them big pipes move it slower so more effective at catching the oil mist , Thanks Humble Mechanic .
Guys remember that part of the purpose of the PCV system is to eliminate any water contamination in the oil. So when the engine is serviced if there is any condensation inside the crankcase, say from when a oil change was done or the sump had been taken off or even cam covers, any humid air in there will trap moisture when it is reassembled. When the engine heats up this moisture will evaporate in the crank case then be pulled through the catch can causing it to build up in there. In my old supra using the the right viscosity oil also made a big difference to the amount of oil that would build up in the catch can. The thinner it was the more oil mist it would suck though. This video though - that is quite a lot in there. I feel maybe driving around in a snow/cold climate may add to this with the cold air hitting hot surfaces in the engine during combustion and creating some moisture that could be passing the rings or maybe a small vacuum leak on the crankcase/vac line somewhere allowing cold air to enter the engine and be pulled through into the catch can.
I think catch cans are a serious preventive equipment. But there are several qualities of catch cans. Some have a vacuum line, some have pressure valves.... I’d like your view about it. Some comparison test would be great. Oh and I’m looking for some advise about which additive or method (hydrogen?) works best to remove carbon build up (without disassembling). Thanks.
I've installed a catch can in my 2012 gen 1 GTI about a year ago. The can itself is about 12 oz and every time I change my oil (3600 miles)I drain about 8 oz out of the catch can. The oil in my catch can is a much thicker sludge than what you showed on the Tiguan. I can only imagine that this is a good product to install on any Volkswagen direct injection turbo engine. I am definitely a believer and catch cans!
Mate, love this post. It just goes to show in my opinion that the catch can system can help the environment on it's own. Keep up the great work. (you would not believe here in Australia, catch cans are not legal but Auto shops sell them) Might invest in one for my GM 3.6 Alloytec. Cheers.
Just did that on c63 w204 after an intake Clean job. Lots oil in the intake. First 500km catches some water like fluids. Even it’s an port injection , still recommend add one! So far no codes on, hoses connected between the middle of low pressure pcv.
Catch can liquid is blowby (what blows past the rings on the piston into the oil sump) and therefore is mainly petrol and oil (the oil mainly being the solid chunks you see in the liquid he pulled out).
He mentioned earlier - she's already got two oil separators, what for separatin' yer oil! I presume they're directly ahead of this, so if VW did their job right there shouldn't be much oil getting this far to begin with.
In my experience, of tens of thousands of miles with catch cans, you collect a ton of condensation as the gas cools and a tiny tiny bit of oil.. exactly as this video shows
Catch cans are great for forced induction (turbo/supercharged) engines and will likely help DI engines suffering from intake valve buildup. But probably won't do much for normally aspirated engines with port injection... maybe when they get high mileage and the rings don't seal so well, which causes blow-by, a catch can would probably help quite a bit in that situation. Blow-by is the same reason why a catch can would be so helpful on forced induction engines. I suggest you state that the Tiguan engine is turbocharged. Otherwise a good video, short and sweet and to-the-point. Thank you.
I got a 10yr old ford focus 2.0 tdci, and during a service checking out the throttle body I found the throttle body and intake manifold to both have a thick (3/16") black carbon/oil build up. It can only have come from 2 places I know of, the crank case breather hose, or the egr valve. Will be trying an oil catch can, but not until I take the head off and clean the valves and ports.
Nice can you have there! My first one was a cheap-o unit, so much so that I had to put my own baffle and stainless steel catalyst in there. It fell apart since JB Weld apparently doesn't hold up too well with the caustic and solvent-like crap that's vented from the crank case.
This is awesome, great test Charles! That is indeed a shocking amount, gross! I have a friend with a '15 GTI (you know Trev haha) and he didn't have much stuff build up in his from what I recall, but was only on maybe 3 months. Maybe see what his is like as well! Edit: I'm also curious if what you've captured is flammable. It looks like a very low viscosity, almost like water (which you could also expect, since the lighter end of oil is what would go through PCV). Curious if there's much water content, or if it's mostly oil.
Yeah, this confirms my comment earlier. It seems that VW and Audi cars with the 3rd generation 2.0 TSI engine are not benefiting that much from the catch can.
Thanks Jason! I can save it for ya. We can try and burn it! It takes little convincing for me to light stuff on fire. On that, it may make for interesting conversion about catch cans PVCs and vapors in the systems. ALSO FIRE FIRE FIRE!
From my experience with how much oil is missing in my engine (not much) versus the amount of fluid found in my catch can, I would say that 99% of what is found in Charles catch can was condensation. I would also note that he should check the level more often in the winter months if it's cold where he lives.
Exactly why i always run a catch can on all my cars. Literally just fitted one yesterday to my new dc5. I noticed there was similar stuff in the breather pipe in mine when i removed it to install the can
If you have a lot of Blow-By or a least when you look into your Oil Cap and see a lot of Moisture when Engine is Hot or see a lot of Moisture in the Muffler/Exhaust.... This will help a lot especially Starting issues! I installed this in my Dad's Truck after seeing a lot of Moisture in the Oil Cap / Muffler / Exhaust and Hard Start of Humid / Cold / Rain Morning / Nights. Now the Trucks starts right away and works really smooth too. BTW... I see my Dad always have problems starting in the Morning or when Rain out. I also see a lot of Steam coming out of Oil Cap when the Engine gets Hot! Once I install the Oil Catch Can with a Filter for venting, somehow it solved it, especially Hard Starting in the Morning / Nights!
Hey Charles, I think you may want to re-touch on explaining what a catch can is. I didn't understand what it was until I saw that it was connected to the head. I don't think a lot of people are going to understand what oil is doing in the air without further explanation.
I added on to my 99 Pontiac Bonneville because they are known to pool oil. the 3.8L N/A at least. sometimes even the supercharged versions could pool oil. I've taken it apart several times and on top of the lower intake manifold, the oil builds up in the opposite ends of the corner. it comes from the PCV. so when there is engine oil blow by, it is supposed to bypass into the intake manifold to be consumed in the combustion process, unfortunately, the oil vapor builds up instead of going into each cylinder and for whatever reason the circulation doesnt allow it but instead it mostly pools up. the catch can makes an improvement on this, which helps risk of fire and may increase fuel economy. it is a mostly custom job procedure. you have to adapt the pcv from the crankshaft to go into the catch can and drill a hole directly into the intake vaccum (either in the middle or right next to throttle plate), or sometimes you can put the output before the air cleaner or before the throttle plate but that may cause MAF errors and more carbon build up. so I think it's best to bypass that and go straight into the intake like it originally does. the bypass is the intake sucks through the catch can which inlet is the output of the pcv. pcv --> catch can --> Intake (vaccum). so because there is always a vaccum when running, the pcv opens and the vapors automatically filter through the can and should prevent oil going into the intake and cylinders for combustion. it really ought to recirculate the oil back into crankcase and leave the vapors for combustion, but it just catches the oil and the remaining vapors go into the intake. all the catch can does is allow the oil vapor to cool and build up in the "catch can" itself so you are not burning up unnecessary oil. I left my pcv system there but sometimes you can just delete it. I just adapted it after because there is a tube hook up that goes under the upper intake to the throttle body but it's just flimsy design. so yes if you have experienced oil buildup in the lower intake manifold a catch can is for you. requires hose adapter fittings and drilling and rerouting and universal setup and a type of engineering brain to make it work together. also in the catch can you should the copper wool instead of steel wool to help slow the flow and collect the oil vapor.
I've used one on my BMW 335i for 50k miles and have not lost any power like most do. I did have the walnut blast intake cleaning done before I installed it and I cannot tell a difference 50k miles later in idle or acceleration. My vote is thumbs up. And, its usually half full every two oil changes (about 20k miles).
Charles, I've been watching for some time now, and I enjoy the videos you put up, even if they aren't entirely translatable to the Subarus that I work on. I just wanted to make an ultimately insignificant and slight suggestion. Your video quality is top notch, but I've noticed when watching in 720 or 1080p, that your intro card is a bit lower res(perhaps 360p). It doesn't detract from anything but I think getting it re-rendered in high res would add another touch of great presentation to your videos. Just a thought. Thanks for putting the content out! -Ty
I installed the JLT catch can on my GF's 2012 Ford Flex EB, there was maybe 2 tablespoons at most in the catch can after 5,000 miles. I did the Walnut Shell blasting just prior to the catch can install @ 108K. I hope it cures the issue as I don't want to do that job again!
Carbon buildup is mainly from the EGR, that is for every brand. Have pulled several intakes to do carbon cleaning and it always start at the EGR inlet to the intake
I really was expecting a bit more on this one. Of course these work on our cars. Yes it's gross looking stuff that is being drained. But that's 250 mls for (what you said) is 3000 miles. That works out to 1/10 of a ml per mile being separated. 1/10 of a ml of fluid per mile of driving is an insanely small amount and I doubt the engine or intake can even tell it's absence. People love to pull their catch cans and show social media to justify their 400 dollar purchase. But when you work out how much is actually being consumed it is a mute point. Still. Love the videos Charles. Huge fan. Still giving it a thumbs up :)
When you break it down to the mile you're right, it is almost nothing. And I don't think they will solve the issue. But I think it may prolong the time before a carbon cleaning is needed. You NAILED it when you said "justify $400". and I think that is just fine. LOL Thank for the support man!
Oh crap... let me try again.. Dude you're Fing nuts. My video is 100% right and you are stupid.. also your mom joke.. And a comment suggesting you do bodily harm to yourself.. Better? :P
I was researching about catch cans for a bit. Now as soon as I watched your experience I've got no doubts. It's definitely a must have on any engine we want to preserve as must as we can. Thanks for the video!
I think you should send that catch can deposit to Blackstone labs and see if there are still detergents in the oil. If so, it may be better to let it flow through the intake and possibly clean the valves
The base for Carbon build up in valves are the stem sealers sipping out at hot soaking head mostly when you shut the engine down. It makes some tacky varnish at the begining, since all other components flashes of at that temperatures.
Good sir, you are an example of what all mechanics should strive for, hell, anyome who calls them a professional. I wish you were my mechanic... Hell i wish u were a personal friend of mine lol. Awesome vids. You should do a vid on secondary air pumps and the system tests, i have a fault on my 2002 jetta 1.8t which im in the process of getting checled out in the next week. Keep up the awesomeness!! Killer beard bro!
I've run a can on my hilux in Australia for years. It certainly catches plenty of vapour and has kept the piping cleaner. On thing everyone seems to miss, This vapour also lines the intercooler with sludge creating a heat sinc. this prevents heat transfer and therefore stops cooling destroying efficiency.
It's clearly worth installing a catch can. I am really surprised how much oil did your catch can collected. Most cheap ebay ones (that are empty on the inside) will only capture a fraction of what you are showing here ! A good one makes all the difference ! That 200 ml is probably exactly the oil that the engine "consumed"... Also a good idea to install one on diesel engines, as they are even more problematic, because the oil vapors combine with soot from the EGR and make nasty deposits on the back of the intake valves...
I installed a catch can on my 04 and 14 Mustang GT . And I noticed a different the cars is smoother and stronger. That garbage coming out of the crank case by way pcv is diluted the air/fuel rationing. The car will thank you for a catch can
I ran the CTS one in my MKV GTI, ad living up in western canada I found that the issues I had in the winter with it always freezing and having to empty it daily from all the vapour it would catch was nice. But it freezing daily was an issue and I removed it for the stock PCV. I'd say if you live in a non extreme condition climate that these are worth it but having it so far away from the heat of the engine isn't worth it for me. Great video as always.
Looks like there might be a risk of catch can contents freezing in cold climates. That could cause the can to fail and maybe a vacuum leak big enough to leave you stranded. I'm surprised it filled so quickly.
Not sure if anyone has said it or not yet, but what you're catching is blow by plus oil. This includes fuel, water, oil, and very small quantities of other "stuff". Joap it and you'll see these results. This is exacerbated on turbo and supercharged vehicles due to increased blow by and higher crank case pressure. This is why Ford has now implemented an intake track fuel injection, that's commonly found on cars, mixed with a direct injection system for their 2018 3.5L EcoBoost engines. This was Fords answer to the intake vales getting coked in oil and carbon causing engine failures. They tried the catch can method, same as BMW, but it had little impact due to it not being serviceable. A well engineered catch can system that can be serviced will make a huge difference like you showed here. Mishimoto is one company that makes very well engineered catch can system and they have all of their engineering data readily available upon request. Great guys to speak with as well if you give them a call I'm sure they'll be more than happy to help answer some of your more technical questions about how and why this system works.
Wow, that thing does work !!! At least it catches something...LOL. Like Condensations (Water) and Oil Condensations at least. The " Pluses " is, that it's NOT going back to the Engine. So either way, it's a WIN WIN for sure regardless how you look at it. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE VIDEO
I owned an 07 gti and put a catch can on it at 18k miles (when I got it) and drove it to 98k with a stage 2 tune when I finally sold it. At 98k I had never had any hard starts or misfires related to carbon build up. It did go through a set of 4 coils in that time. I would say the catch can works. During that time I owned it I heard of many gti' of my generation needing the walnut intake service to clean carbon due to hard starts and miss fires.
I have 2001 F250 7.3 power stroke I put the BD ccv oil catch can with filter it cost around $300 before I installed it I cleaned the turbo all piping from intercooler and intercooler it was very easy to install all hoses were preformed and correct length it comes with filter and a can that attaches to the engine and can that attaches to frame so you can drain oil I have had it on for more than a year no oil in turbo or intercooler I catches 1/2 to 1 cup a month depending on my driving
I had one installed on my 89` Honda CRX and had it run on 2 engines, one had kind of bad oil rings (they got better the more i drove, it stood about 5 years, then got turboed, then got driven, at first you could see blue smoke, but after some driving around they got better, i think there was some kind of sludge in them which got washed out when driving) and the other one was running perfectly fine and didnt take any oil, the first engine didnt have anything in the catchtank after 100km driven, well there were some drops but not mentionable, the second engine took about 500km before the oil catch tank was completely full with white goo, it kinda looked like an milky coffee, and thats why i will never ever lay the return line of my oil catch tank into my oil pan :) Greets from germany
Yes and no. It will also add cost to purchase, and increase maintenance. But if it was a total solution the odds would be higher. Plus you'd think that OEMs would find a way to install a retrofit kit.
HumbleMechanic Very true or beef up the current pcv system as well... On another note I'll be sending you a question about axle bolts and why they are a 2 step procedure later when I'm on lunch.
Auto manufacturers are in the business of making cars. If cars last a long time, they won’t make many, and they won’t make them for long. Now extend that thinking: if auto makers truly wanted to be environmentally friendly, they would make cars that did last a long time so that as few resources as possible would be consumed making new cars. The downside of that extended thought is that it impacts the cash flow of a lot of people...what would all of those jobless people do? What would the people who rely on those people having jobs/money do?
Long term I don't think a catch can will prevent carbon build up. It certainly doesn't hurt it though. I'd say the best thing to do is not sit in traffic and try to burn off most of the buildup throughout the car's life. I do Italian tune-ups every day on my way to work. I'll drive at 4k+ RPM for 20+ min. I'm at 86k miles and haven't had any symptoms of carbon build up yet. I avg only 23 mpg but I think it's my driving. I change spark plugs and fuel filter every 40k miles. Edit: I drive '13 GTI
I drive about 2K miles per month and traffic can’t be avoided. I open her up whenever I can though, but I’m sure I’ll be doing a walnut shell cleaning about every 50K miles. 2018 Audi S3.
I don't do Dago tuneups and my '99 Tahoe has over 321,000 miles and still runs well. I intend on getting an engine rebuild when smoking or breakdown occurs or other evidence of impending disaster.
@@rennkafer13 Yes, Bill, I am port injected and if and when I move into a direct injected unit I will have my catch systems installed. I currently have a three stage set up. The first catches more water than oil, the second for some reason, does the least and the third gives me a "nice" puddle of oil. I think I will change the stage two to a glass container in place of the ABS homemade container. It would be nice to do a visual check for accumulation on that one as well. If you pull the hose off the PCV and it is dry, success ! . There is still the issue of carbon coming in through the EGR. I have pulled the module and cleaned hard carbon deposits from it. If I can keep the "T" running long enough I figure my next move would be hybrid or full electric. I am leery of all electric since if you die somewhere how do you juice up without a terminal or your home electric being handy ? The selection of hybrids aint so great right now as I would want a truck type vehicle and they are still mostly geared to cars. Playing the waiting game for better tech and vehicle selection. :-)
You should get a sample chemically analyzed to see what's in there and the percentage. Could tell you more about the engine's health in relation to piston rings and valve seals
Hello Charles. What you have there is mostly Condensation. On the GTI forums many folks have had their Catch Can Goop tested and found it to be mainly what is to be called Condensation. There is some oil in it yes, but not as much as you think. To answer your question? No. I have seen SO MANY reviews and folks that have used these in their MK6 GTI's on the forums, on oil websites, etc that folks that have had Catch Cans on for over 50k miles STILL had carbon build up. If anything, this MIGHT slow it down some. That would all depend on your driving style and where you live. There have been folks in cold climates that have had SERIOUS problems with catch cans causing problems and lets not forget to mention Oil Catch Cans are An AUTOMATIC FAIL in an emissions test here in California, as I am sure any other strict Emissions State. My local Dealer cleans the Valves for $400. This is cheaper than most catch cans, and since it only needs to be done once in a blue moon, I think just getting the valves cleaned every so often is the best way to go. You dont really save any money here, its not proven anyway. Just my ten cents.
Jeff Eppenger are you sure catch cans are a fail in Cali? Its my understanding that catch cans like Mighty Mouse are fine because they arent actually letting anything escape, just allowing the oil to seperate from the air.
Jeff Eppenger this catch can isn't open to atmosphere so the vapours go back into the intake which shouldn't fail emissions test. It's more an aos (air oil separator) than catch can.
Jeff Eppenger best comment I've seen on catch cans. We know it's not 100 percent effective for sure. Your still going to have to clean your intakes , plus the cost if a catch can, plus the motion of cleaning it out more often than not. A change of oil.
This is exactly what I found when I installed a catch can. The cold air flow in winter time made it fill up with 99% water at a ridiculous rate. Ended up removing it as I felt it wasn't doing much good.
I saw that and wondered the same. Clearly, it is mostly condensation and a small amount of water injection may be good for a variety of reasons (improved knock resistance, cooler engine temperatures, and some steam cleaning on the back of the valve). Really makes me wonder if a catch can makes things worse or better.
All that shit would go back into your intake. Do you still wanna question if it should be there or not? It's vapours, Sherlock, it's bound to condensate eventually.
I agree with most here. That there is water from blowby with a layer of oil on top. I do think a catch can will help slow the issue of coke build up on intake valves but the only real soultion is to have a small low volume fuel injector wash the valves. Even if its only something that handles a 5% of the motors fuel demands.... then again with more turbocharged and supercharged cars i bet a H2o/meth injection on the back of the valves would work just as well and think bmw has one motor designed as such.
I have a rx performance catch can it was filled with water oil from my 2014 Ford focus with a standard 2.0l I dumped out the catch can every 5k miles. Works really well and I will do also do an intake cleaning using soda media or glass to clean out my intake valves.
That looks to be mostly condensation. Definitely not oil. I don't see that gunking up anything to be honest. Most of that would evaporate in the intake once the engine is at operating temp.
It is condensation, however it has been proven numerous times that the crap going back into the intake reduces performance over time and gums up the back of the intake valves which conventional fuel system cleaner doesn’t clean.
Keeping in mind she's got 2 factory oil separators which sit ahead of this aftermarket add on. I'd say it serves a good purpose keeping all this condensation out of the intake too, water is a combustion product, we don't want it in with the reactants if we can help it :P
Catch can's mainly capture water vapour from the crankcase, some of it is oil and combustion products from blowby, but the overwhelming majority is just water. Still it might be doing something, but I believe most of the carbon build up on the backs of valves comes from oil leaking past the valve stem seals - this is why you tend to see a large carbon blob at the base of the valve stem when you inspect valves on engines that have seen some miles.
I put an oil catch can on my Volvo S60 T6 because after I did some minor turbo tuning and intake manifold tuning I noticed under heavy acceleration during initial turbo spool the tail pipes seem to let off some smoke but I have very little oil loss effectively none, so I figured must be something recirculating through the intake or something and I figured a oil catch can is the easiest and best thing.. since doing that I no longer get any smoke under full throttle take off and the crap I catch in my catch cans look exactly like the stuff you got, almost watery or no viscosity and think layer of something disgusting on the surface..
Daaaang. Ok, I’m convinced. I’m putting this on my stage 3 Cobb Ecoboost. I think it should be required for every car manufacturer to have these things stock. But that’s where the money is right? Maintenance and repairs after a car is sold?😑
Most of the captured content is water and excess gasoline. I run a can on a 2.7 twin turbo Ford and ran them on 5.4 Supercharged Fords but due to my climate I dont get much water in the can, just pure oil. I know yours isnt oil just by looking at it - when you drain the engine oil it will not match the contents in the can or the can contents would be black. It is certainly doing what it is designed to do but the stuff youa re capturing wont play into coking on the valves, it just extends the oil life. When I drain my can on my 2.7 ecoboost I get about 4 oz of oil in 5k miles.
I have a Lexus that runs great, like new. I put a catch can on it just for the hell of it, just to see. I made a 800-mile trip, then checked it and it had approx 1 tablespoon worth of oil in the catch can. Kind of dirty brown-looking oil, The oil in the car is brand new and still showing clear on the dipstick.
HumbleMechanic I've noticed on my direct injection vehicle I have a 2012 Kia Optima SX it's a turbo and I've noticed the more humidity and or wet weather you have and the colder it is the more Blow by that you catch so I would not wait the full 3000 miles in say winter time because they do fill up a lot faster I have to catch cans on my vehicle with a PCV delete so it goes through both catch cans and I catch quite a bit in the winter time I checked mine at least once a week or every fill-up
Going have you say no, almost no oil. Look how it drained the viscosity was way too low to be oil, It flowed like water. Really all catch cans are a waste of money. Should let the container sit for 24hours and see how it separates.
Hey man I figured it out. I have the 2009 mk5 golf GTI tsi an I used 1 catch can first with the back pcv blocked off an only using the front but was emptying it out very often like this of mainly water the same u had. So now I run both pcv ports open to their own separate catch cans an habe none of the water anymore in either can just some oily mixture now an this is more what I expect an in the last 20,000 miles i still haven't emptied them but they are like 1/4 full now well the back is an the front is only 1/8 full. What I think happens when you blocked the back PCV is the condensation they would normally drip out the tailpipe ends up in the catch can. Because I noticed I no longer had water out of my tailpipe when I was empty in my single catch can that often.. but now I have it out the tailpipe again an not in the catch can. So I run 2 cans now one for both outlets on the pcv with great results. I have been running them since 70,000 and I'm at 95,000 miles now an about to do a timing chain an tensioner job along with the injectors an intake manifold flapper runner sensor as well an I will know how well the catch cans this way worked for me in the last 25,000 miles an will post on here an get back to u.btw love ur videos man
Answer: Hell yes they work The inlets of my turbos, intercooler piping and low spots along the intercooler were saturated with oily residue and pockets of oil. The inlet of the turbo? Awful! By adding the catch can, it prevents your motor from ingesting the dirty oily air. And...intake valves stayed cleaner too.
HumbleMechanic yeah but they could say the same thing about cabin filters :p I hope catch cans become mandatory because without them engine performance and efficiency suffers and that ultimately increases emissions. I'd be more comfortable driving a turbo direct injection car if it came with a catch can from factory.
CSRT4 Ever that's a stupid assumption. That's like saying people are too lazy to change air filters and do oil changes (which they are but at least they let the mechanics do it). Catch cans should be mandatory on all direct injection engines as per emissions requirements
CSRT4 Ever besides what extra maintenance all you gotta do is turn a valve and drain the gunk it's not rocket science. This is no more difficult than adding washer fluid...
CSRT4 Ever that's the consumers problem then. Why are you defending a shitty design that will cause these cars to become junkyard scrap in 10 years. If you feel the consumer is so incompetent then don't you think less people couldn't be bothered to even drive a car?
In other words. Engine designers design their engines with a flawed process in place and so we the end user has to come along and fix their failures. Interesting as I note they all have fuel filters and air filters and oil filters and even cabin air filters, surly they must have some idea about keeping things clean yet for some reason they don't install catch cans. Thankfully, we the customer know better than the guys who have millions of dollars to designed and test our engines.
We have dyno style E-tests here on the Colorado front range and they, years back, stopped looking under the hood and only scan the underside for a visual on your exhaust system. If Cal disqualifies the catch can I would simply remove it before and then reinstall after the test. It is not necessarily bad design work as it is also management not wanting to lay out precious pennies and Nickels for a better result. In Delorean's book; "On A Clear Day You Can See General Motors", he outlines time and again how management; the accounting department too, run the roost and it is their influence that dictates the way the product finishes up. www.amazon.com/Clear-Day-You-General-Motors/dp/0960356207 . Finally; if every car had a catch can how many would actually do the periodic emptying and even then most would likely throw it on the ground or into garbage that goes to the landfill. I take my used oil and can catch juices to a recycling facility here in Boulder County.
That’s scary! I would have to say it’s a whole heck more possible that trapping this can only be an added benefit. My eyes bugged out when it drained that much
It's mostly just collecting water. Not a big help. In cold weather it is actually a pretty big risk. If that can fills up before you get a chance to empty it all that junk will get gulped back into the intake all at once. If it freezes , even worse. Pcv won't work and pressure will build it in the crank case. In my opinion these risks aren't worth the reward.
Blowby (produced by all engines, new and old; severity is the difference). All the nasty crud (oil, fuel, emissions etc) that used to be spat right onto the road as you went, until environmental hoo-hah changed that in the 70's. This crud was never meant to recirculate back to the engine. The fact that it does, since this environmental hoo-hah, is a factor in why vehicles don't last as long as they used to. The catch-can is a "gray area" compromise, as far as most States are concerned. Apparently you will actually fail SMOG if you don't reconnect the block-side hoses directly to the manifold, as it was originally (if you install one, account for that necessity later). And it would prove most effective if you've installed it basically right after you've bought new off the lot (before that crud builds up and fouls it all up)... though older, already fouled up vehicles will also benefit to an extent (their blowby will be significantly greater than a new/er vehicle. All that crud eventually will start affecting even the throttle body and idle air control valves and causing more problems down the line. These can help mitigate that too, buy you more time to decide to rebuild or junk it).
Oil catch cans are a must in Force Induction Applications. Oil and any other contaminates that enter the cylinders / intake can change the octane of the fuel and detonate prematurely causing damage over time.
I am not a Mac but i think it will not solve the carbon build up because the valves opening and closing will let a tinny Carbon thruw and causes the carbon to crash into the walls of the intake manifold and stay there until cleaned (maybe I am wrong )🤔keep it good work I learn alot from your channels like this
A tech at Further Performance, here in Minnesota, advised against catch cans because they can freeze here. I am on a 5,000 mile oil change cycle partly to reduce the crud that can land on my intake valves. I also drove 20 minutes on the freeway in 4th gear (3,000 -3,500 rpm) for my own "Italian tune-up". I wonder how much of the catch-can liquid was water, and if the ethanol in the fuel brought water in from the air.
Along with a catch can, introducing water injection through the intake system under hard throttle would yield the most effective method of keeping the valves clean. This can easily be achieved with a throttle or rpm switch. Because of direct injection, the intake valve runs hotter, thus water injection would have multiple benefits.
I can't help but wonder how much condensation is from the catch can itself. Like a single pane window, condensation appears due to cold outside air, warm inside. (draws the moisture out of the air to the cold surface and then condensates)
![The Wall Song ร้องข้ามกำแพง | EP.213 | กรีน อัษฎาพร | 3 ต.ค. 67 [1/5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3KrlLbCsadI/mqdefault.jpg)
For real, I was shocked at the results I found. I expected a little drip or maybe a small amount of crud. Do you think it will fix the carbon issues? Let me know in the comments.
HumbleMechanic what year is your wife's Tiguan? I'm looking to instal one on my wife's 2012 Tiguan TSI AWD. Can you point me in the direction to where you bought the can?
This is a 2015. The 2012 will be exactly the same. Here is how to install it. There is a little trimming you need to do on the bracket, but it's not bad.
Here is the one I have I think. I can't remember which of the two I have HAHA. ~ store.blackforestindustries.com/bficcacroils1.html
HumbleMechanic man, thanks so much. I've subscribed to your channel I don't know how long ago, a year or so maybe. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for the support :)
Nice video... sold my MK6 Gti cause of all the issues including this .. who needs all the worries lol.
I to get about a cup every 3000 miles out of my 2017 ford focus ST catch can. I also run a can of CRC intake valve cleaner every 10,000 miles in the intake and between the two I think it’s gonna go along way to help keep the valves clean. Thanks for sharing!
Charles, your wife is like “honey have you seen my good glass measuring bowl?”😏
LMAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
Just tore the pcv diaphragm last week and replaced it for like $20 on my 2011 gti. This makes me want a catch can sooooo badly. Good work Charles keep it up I love watching your videos.
I have a 2011 GTI and installed the ECS tuning catch can. In the cold weather months, I empty my catch can every 300 miles. With my long commute, I empty out the can every three days. There is a huge concern with the catch can system freezing and blocking the air way which will cause series problems with the engine.
In cold temperatures it's a great idea to empty this DAILY. Mine gets up to half full on a daily basis in the winters (-15 to 30 degree F weather). Don't let it freeze in there! You don't want excess pressure put onto the crank seal. EDIT: by crank seal I mean Rear Main Seal.
shhhhhhhhhhhhhh simple fix: just buy a gallon sized catch can!
shhhhhhhhhhhhhh
On Passenger, driver or both?
@@FSXflyermasterShhhhh and add a quart of antifreeze to your oil and gallon in fuel tank.
It's tough competition but I think this dude is one of the best mechanics on TH-cam
I believe it does help a lot. Every 3,000 miles I drain it and every 10,000 i clean the filter (mashimoto oil Catch can). I also noticed that I'm running a bit better in performance. I dont think itll solve the problem but having that oil catch can helps by not burning that oil in the engine and coming out the exhaust. It even smells like gas when you drain it.
what is that substance caught in the can? and if you don’t have a can what does that substance do to your vehicle?
@devote459068 It is a brown liquid that is mixed with oil from the valve cover and fuel to be burned. When it settles, it's a gunky goo.
Watching this video just sold me on catch cans. I've been researching the hell out of the subject and think it would be good to have one on my G8 that has a direct injection 3.6 V6. I was shocked at the amount of stuff that came out of that catch can! Thank you for the video.
I've run a catch can on my cammed/tuned 2010 Challenger SRT8 for about 7 years. The can catches straight oil vapor and never ever catches/condenses water vapor into water in any way. The oil in the can looks pure enough to dump back into the engine... although I always dispose of it. This is a very popular mod in the Modern Mopar community and I imagine it is as much so among other car enthusiasts. It ranks up there with CAIs and exhaust catbacks as a mod highly contested as to whether or not it actually ads power. It is my understanding a CC can marginally improve horsepower of an engine by reducing the *slight* timing retardation that can occur when oil vapor passes by various sensors. Particularly the sensor in the intake tube just before the Throttle Body. How much more power? Nothing you can feel for sure and likely nothing measurable on a Dyno. At the very least, the the interior of my intake manifold is noticeably cleaner; a shallow pool of oil is common to find in the rear of a Modern Mopar V8 but the CC stops that. Great short video!
Yes catch can's do work for Shure I've had mine on for 15.000 miles emptied it twice and got yellow brownish Gunk out that would have gone in my engine. Thanks for a great vid
Installed a catch can on my Fiesta ST. Its a low mileage motor but I still get some oil collection in mine. Mine was much more oily than what you got out but I did think the oil looked a little watery. I got no where near a cup last time I checked however. Looks like that car is driven on a lot of short trips where you will have more condensation left in the engine.
I'd love to see some chemical analysis done on that sludge rather than eyeballing it, looks like mostly water with a very thin layer of oil on top
I agree
can you do a follow up on this video?
Yep! I spoke with them today about having the engine oil AND the catch can goo tested at the same time.
I agree, and if you ask any old timer about decarboning an engine they will tell you to get it hot and pour water down the intake while running. Small amounts at a time. Just like an induction service is done.
@@HumbleMechanic Did you sent samples for testing? What did the tests show?
Just in the process of building mine for my GTI 7.5 one important issue ,VW say keep the pipes BIG as smaller pipes and fittings restrict flow and will move air to fast though them big pipes move it slower so more effective at catching the oil mist , Thanks Humble Mechanic .
*winter-time adds a lot of water/humidity to the catch can. You want to drain it more often so it doesn't freeze up over night*
ImStricken06 like how often?
@@armstrong4196 I do it every other fillup, but I dont live where it every really freezes even in the winter.
@@armstrong4196 every day
@@ericdiekmann11 lol thanks. Where I live the weather can reach -40
@@armstrong4196 me too
Guys remember that part of the purpose of the PCV system is to eliminate any water contamination in the oil. So when the engine is serviced if there is any condensation inside the crankcase, say from when a oil change was done or the sump had been taken off or even cam covers, any humid air in there will trap moisture when it is reassembled. When the engine heats up this moisture will evaporate in the crank case then be pulled through the catch can causing it to build up in there.
In my old supra using the the right viscosity oil also made a big difference to the amount of oil that would build up in the catch can. The thinner it was the more oil mist it would suck though.
This video though - that is quite a lot in there. I feel maybe driving around in a snow/cold climate may add to this with the cold air hitting hot surfaces in the engine during combustion and creating some moisture that could be passing the rings or maybe a small vacuum leak on the crankcase/vac line somewhere allowing cold air to enter the engine and be pulled through into the catch can.
what is that substance caught in the can? and if you don’t have a can what does that substance do to your vehicle?
Should be one on from factory with drain down by oil pan. You could jus drain when you change the oil.
I installed one on my GF’s 2013 Equinox. It works! Emptied it twice now in 3000 miles.
I think catch cans are a serious preventive equipment. But there are several qualities of catch cans. Some have a vacuum line, some have pressure valves.... I’d like your view about it. Some comparison test would be great. Oh and I’m looking for some advise about which additive or method (hydrogen?) works best to remove carbon build up (without disassembling). Thanks.
I've installed a catch can in my 2012 gen 1 GTI about a year ago. The can itself is about 12 oz and every time I change my oil (3600 miles)I drain about 8 oz out of the catch can. The oil in my catch can is a much thicker sludge than what you showed on the Tiguan. I can only imagine that this is a good product to install on any Volkswagen direct injection turbo engine. I am definitely a believer and catch cans!
Mate, love this post. It just goes to show in my opinion that the catch can system can help the environment on it's own. Keep up the great work. (you would not believe here in Australia, catch cans are not legal but Auto shops sell them) Might invest in one for my GM 3.6 Alloytec. Cheers.
Omly illegal if your catch can has a breather of vent that dumbs pcv gas directly to environment, if it's a closed system then it's legal.
Just did that on c63 w204 after an intake Clean job. Lots oil in the intake. First 500km catches some water like fluids. Even it’s an port injection , still recommend add one! So far no codes on, hoses connected between the middle of low pressure pcv.
Looks more like water than oil. Like condensation
Check out anything lp/nat gas powered.
White milky shit coming out the breathers , and the oil isn’t far behind that.
Catch can liquid is blowby (what blows past the rings on the piston into the oil sump) and therefore is mainly petrol and oil (the oil mainly being the solid chunks you see in the liquid he pulled out).
He mentioned earlier - she's already got two oil separators, what for separatin' yer oil! I presume they're directly ahead of this, so if VW did their job right there shouldn't be much oil getting this far to begin with.
In my experience, of tens of thousands of miles with catch cans, you collect a ton of condensation as the gas cools and a tiny tiny bit of oil.. exactly as this video shows
Which is why you do not run those aos setups that filter at the oil filler tube. All that water goes back into the sump.
Catch cans are great for forced induction (turbo/supercharged) engines and will likely help DI engines suffering from intake valve buildup. But probably won't do much for normally aspirated engines with port injection... maybe when they get high mileage and the rings don't seal so well, which causes blow-by, a catch can would probably help quite a bit in that situation. Blow-by is the same reason why a catch can would be so helpful on forced induction engines.
I suggest you state that the Tiguan engine is turbocharged. Otherwise a good video, short and sweet and to-the-point. Thank you.
Would've loved to have seen the carbon build up b4 and after! 🤔
I got a 10yr old ford focus 2.0 tdci, and during a service checking out the throttle body I found the throttle body and intake manifold to both have a thick (3/16") black carbon/oil build up.
It can only have come from 2 places I know of, the crank case breather hose, or the egr valve. Will be trying an oil catch can, but not until I take the head off and clean the valves and ports.
Nice can you have there!
My first one was a cheap-o unit, so much so that I had to put my own baffle and stainless steel catalyst in there. It fell apart since JB Weld apparently doesn't hold up too well with the caustic and solvent-like crap that's vented from the crank case.
This is awesome, great test Charles! That is indeed a shocking amount, gross!
I have a friend with a '15 GTI (you know Trev haha) and he didn't have much stuff build up in his from what I recall, but was only on maybe 3 months. Maybe see what his is like as well!
Edit: I'm also curious if what you've captured is flammable. It looks like a very low viscosity, almost like water (which you could also expect, since the lighter end of oil is what would go through PCV). Curious if there's much water content, or if it's mostly oil.
Yeah, this confirms my comment earlier. It seems that VW and Audi cars with the 3rd generation 2.0 TSI engine are not benefiting that much from the catch can.
Thanks Jason! I can save it for ya. We can try and burn it! It takes little convincing for me to light stuff on fire. On that, it may make for interesting conversion about catch cans PVCs and vapors in the systems.
ALSO FIRE FIRE FIRE!
Don't burn it! Send it to Blackstone and get an analysis done (and maybe a sponsor deal out of it too)
Why not do both? LOL
From my experience with how much oil is missing in my engine (not much) versus the amount of fluid found in my catch can, I would say that 99% of what is found in Charles catch can was condensation. I would also note that he should check the level more often in the winter months if it's cold where he lives.
Exactly why i always run a catch can on all my cars. Literally just fitted one yesterday to my new dc5. I noticed there was similar stuff in the breather pipe in mine when i removed it to install the can
I just drained the BFI V2 catch can on my wife’s Tiguan and it seemed like mostly condensation and a little oil.
If you have a lot of Blow-By or a least when you look into your Oil Cap and see a lot of Moisture when Engine is Hot or see a lot of Moisture in the Muffler/Exhaust.... This will help a lot especially Starting issues! I installed this in my Dad's Truck after seeing a lot of Moisture in the Oil Cap / Muffler / Exhaust and Hard Start of Humid / Cold / Rain Morning / Nights. Now the Trucks starts right away and works really smooth too. BTW... I see my Dad always have problems starting in the Morning or when Rain out. I also see a lot of Steam coming out of Oil Cap when the Engine gets Hot! Once I install the Oil Catch Can with a Filter for venting, somehow it solved it, especially Hard Starting in the Morning / Nights!
I installed one and look at my Catch Can..... OMG....... Less than 400 Miles :/// See Video here: th-cam.com/video/o5yoZhG__L4/w-d-xo.html
Hey Charles, I think you may want to re-touch on explaining what a catch can is. I didn't understand what it was until I saw that it was connected to the head. I don't think a lot of people are going to understand what oil is doing in the air without further explanation.
I think that warrants it's own video on PVC systems, oil separations, and catch cans.
Agreed. I would enjoy that!
I added on to my 99 Pontiac Bonneville because they are known to pool oil. the 3.8L N/A at least. sometimes even the supercharged versions could pool oil. I've taken it apart several times and on top of the lower intake manifold, the oil builds up in the opposite ends of the corner. it comes from the PCV. so when there is engine oil blow by, it is supposed to bypass into the intake manifold to be consumed in the combustion process, unfortunately, the oil vapor builds up instead of going into each cylinder and for whatever reason the circulation doesnt allow it but instead it mostly pools up.
the catch can makes an improvement on this, which helps risk of fire and may increase fuel economy. it is a mostly custom job procedure. you have to adapt the pcv from the crankshaft to go into the catch can and drill a hole directly into the intake vaccum (either in the middle or right next to throttle plate), or sometimes you can put the output before the air cleaner or before the throttle plate but that may cause MAF errors and more carbon build up. so I think it's best to bypass that and go straight into the intake like it originally does. the bypass is the intake sucks through the catch can which inlet is the output of the pcv.
pcv --> catch can --> Intake (vaccum).
so because there is always a vaccum when running, the pcv opens and the vapors automatically filter through the can and should prevent oil going into the intake and cylinders for combustion. it really ought to recirculate the oil back into crankcase and leave the vapors for combustion, but it just catches the oil and the remaining vapors go into the intake.
all the catch can does is allow the oil vapor to cool and build up in the "catch can" itself so you are not burning up unnecessary oil. I left my pcv system there but sometimes you can just delete it. I just adapted it after because there is a tube hook up that goes under the upper intake to the throttle body but it's just flimsy design. so yes if you have experienced oil buildup in the lower intake manifold a catch can is for you. requires hose adapter fittings and drilling and rerouting and universal setup and a type of engineering brain to make it work together. also in the catch can you should the copper wool instead of steel wool to help slow the flow and collect the oil vapor.
2:58 RELEASE THE SHMOO!!!
I've used one on my BMW 335i for 50k miles and have not lost any power like most do. I did have the walnut blast intake cleaning done before I installed it and I cannot tell a difference 50k miles later in idle or acceleration. My vote is thumbs up. And, its usually half full every two oil changes (about 20k miles).
Charles, I've been watching for some time now, and I enjoy the videos you put up, even if they aren't entirely translatable to the Subarus that I work on.
I just wanted to make an ultimately insignificant and slight suggestion. Your video quality is top notch, but I've noticed when watching in 720 or 1080p, that your intro card is a bit lower res(perhaps 360p). It doesn't detract from anything but I think getting it re-rendered in high res would add another touch of great presentation to your videos.
Just a thought.
Thanks for putting the content out!
-Ty
Haha. Thanks Ty!! I appreciate it
I installed the JLT catch can on my GF's 2012 Ford Flex EB, there was maybe 2 tablespoons at most in the catch can after 5,000 miles. I did the Walnut Shell blasting just prior to the catch can install @ 108K. I hope it cures the issue as I don't want to do that job again!
I think catch cans will delay carbon build up issues. But the best way to prevent CBU is probably to have dual injection.
Yep That is basically where I am at too.
Carbon buildup is mainly from the EGR, that is for every brand.
Have pulled several intakes to do carbon cleaning and it always start at the EGR inlet to the intake
The only difference here is this engines doesn’t have egr
HumbleMechanic in that case I think i could help
@@HumbleMechanic With no EGR how do they keep NOX down ? I consider EGR as something that reduces combustion efficiency a bit.
I really was expecting a bit more on this one.
Of course these work on our cars. Yes it's gross looking stuff that is being drained.
But that's 250 mls for (what you said) is 3000 miles. That works out to 1/10 of a ml per mile being separated.
1/10 of a ml of fluid per mile of driving is an insanely small amount and I doubt the engine or intake can even tell it's absence.
People love to pull their catch cans and show social media to justify their 400 dollar purchase. But when you work out how much is actually being consumed it is a mute point.
Still. Love the videos Charles. Huge fan. Still giving it a thumbs up :)
When you break it down to the mile you're right, it is almost nothing. And I don't think they will solve the issue. But I think it may prolong the time before a carbon cleaning is needed.
You NAILED it when you said "justify $400". and I think that is just fine. LOL Thank for the support man!
HumbleMechanic with a mature response! I thought this was a TH-cam comment thread where we have to be at each other's throats ;)
Oh crap... let me try again..
Dude you're Fing nuts. My video is 100% right and you are stupid.. also your mom joke.. And a comment suggesting you do bodily harm to yourself..
Better? :P
HumbleMechanic now we are "youtubing!"
Oh thank goodness. I was worried.HAAHAH Thanks for this. :)
I was researching about catch cans for a bit. Now as soon as I watched your experience I've got no doubts. It's definitely a must have on any engine we want to preserve as must as we can.
Thanks for the video!
I think you should send that catch can deposit to Blackstone labs and see if there are still detergents in the oil. If so, it may be better to let it flow through the intake and possibly clean the valves
That would be interesting to see. I saved the sample so I might just do that when I sent the GTI oil out.
My question in mind aswell. Interesting topic
That would make a great statement, good thinking.
HumbleMechanic any update on the Blackstone labs analysis of the catch can deposit?
Update?
The base for Carbon build up in valves are the stem sealers sipping out at hot soaking head mostly when you shut the engine down. It makes some tacky varnish at the begining, since all other components flashes of at that temperatures.
Good sir, you are an example of what all mechanics should strive for, hell, anyome who calls them a professional. I wish you were my mechanic... Hell i wish u were a personal friend of mine lol. Awesome vids. You should do a vid on secondary air pumps and the system tests, i have a fault on my 2002 jetta 1.8t which im in the process of getting checled out in the next week. Keep up the awesomeness!! Killer beard bro!
Thanks so much
I've run a can on my hilux in Australia for years. It certainly catches plenty of vapour and has kept the piping cleaner.
On thing everyone seems to miss,
This vapour also lines the intercooler with sludge creating a heat sinc. this prevents heat transfer and therefore stops cooling destroying efficiency.
It's clearly worth installing a catch can. I am really surprised how much oil did your catch can collected. Most cheap ebay ones (that are empty on the inside) will only capture a fraction of what you are showing here ! A good one makes all the difference ! That 200 ml is probably exactly the oil that the engine "consumed"... Also a good idea to install one on diesel engines, as they are even more problematic, because the oil vapors combine with soot from the EGR and make nasty deposits on the back of the intake valves...
I installed a catch can on my 04 and 14 Mustang GT . And I noticed a different the cars is smoother and stronger. That garbage coming out of the crank case by way pcv is diluted the air/fuel rationing. The car will thank you for a catch can
Hey Charles, what about just removing the return pipe to the intake and letting the crank case vent atmospherically?
I ran the CTS one in my MKV GTI, ad living up in western canada I found that the issues I had in the winter with it always freezing and having to empty it daily from all the vapour it would catch was nice. But it freezing daily was an issue and I removed it for the stock PCV. I'd say if you live in a non extreme condition climate that these are worth it but having it so far away from the heat of the engine isn't worth it for me. Great video as always.
Looks like there might be a risk of catch can contents freezing in cold climates. That could cause the can to fail and maybe a vacuum leak big enough to leave you stranded. I'm surprised it filled so quickly.
yeah ive seen some pretty nasty crud in the construction equipment i work on that use catchcans/crankcase filters. im sold on the idea
The first time I drained mine I was blown away. I feel it's necissary on any performance car.
no, its really not. And this beardy twat knows fuck all,, its water. period.
Hell yes they work. I put one on my 2013 Eco F150 and I am glad I did.
why? proof? no you just get condensation in it and convince yourself its better. its not
@@James28R four plus years of use and I don’t need any more proof then that. I have one installed and working.
That's a lot of crud!
Definitely looks like a good item to have, aftermarket or otherwise.
Very well presented as always!
Thank you :)
Not sure if anyone has said it or not yet, but what you're catching is blow by plus oil. This includes fuel, water, oil, and very small quantities of other "stuff". Joap it and you'll see these results. This is exacerbated on turbo and supercharged vehicles due to increased blow by and higher crank case pressure. This is why Ford has now implemented an intake track fuel injection, that's commonly found on cars, mixed with a direct injection system for their 2018 3.5L EcoBoost engines. This was Fords answer to the intake vales getting coked in oil and carbon causing engine failures. They tried the catch can method, same as BMW, but it had little impact due to it not being serviceable. A well engineered catch can system that can be serviced will make a huge difference like you showed here. Mishimoto is one company that makes very well engineered catch can system and they have all of their engineering data readily available upon request. Great guys to speak with as well if you give them a call I'm sure they'll be more than happy to help answer some of your more technical questions about how and why this system works.
Wow, that thing does work !!! At least it catches something...LOL. Like Condensations (Water) and Oil Condensations at least. The " Pluses " is, that it's NOT going back to the Engine. So either way, it's a WIN WIN for sure regardless how you look at it. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE VIDEO
Look at my Catch Can..... Less than 400 Miles :/// See Video here: th-cam.com/video/o5yoZhG__L4/w-d-xo.html
I owned an 07 gti and put a catch can on it at 18k miles (when I got it) and drove it to 98k with a stage 2 tune when I finally sold it. At 98k I had never had any hard starts or misfires related to carbon build up. It did go through a set of 4 coils in that time. I would say the catch can works. During that time I owned it I heard of many gti' of my generation needing the walnut intake service to clean carbon due to hard starts and miss fires.
After watching im planning to install oil catch can on every car i have
even the electric car?
I have 2001 F250 7.3 power stroke I put the BD ccv oil catch can with filter it cost around $300 before I installed it I cleaned the turbo all piping from intercooler and intercooler it was very easy to install all hoses were preformed and correct length it comes with filter and a can that attaches to the engine and can that attaches to frame so you can drain oil I have had it on for more than a year no oil in turbo or intercooler I catches 1/2 to 1 cup a month depending on my driving
How do you not have over 1 mil subs?
MotorHead Tech Beard mites don't have computers.
because he hasnt found enough cock suckers like you yet? jesus you are pathetic
I had one installed on my 89` Honda CRX and had it run on 2 engines, one had kind of bad oil rings (they got better the more i drove, it stood about 5 years, then got turboed, then got driven, at first you could see blue smoke, but after some driving around they got better, i think there was some kind of sludge in them which got washed out when driving) and the other one was running perfectly fine and didnt take any oil, the first engine didnt have anything in the catchtank after 100km driven, well there were some drops but not mentionable, the second engine took about 500km before the oil catch tank was completely full with white goo, it kinda looked like an milky coffee, and thats why i will never ever lay the return line of my oil catch tank into my oil pan :) Greets from germany
I think if something as simple as a catch can would prevent the carbon problem manufacturers would have done it long ago...
Yes and no. It will also add cost to purchase, and increase maintenance. But if it was a total solution the odds would be higher. Plus you'd think that OEMs would find a way to install a retrofit kit.
HumbleMechanic Very true or beef up the current pcv system as well... On another note I'll be sending you a question about axle bolts and why they are a 2 step procedure later when I'm on lunch.
SWEET! Send it on!
Like they are not in the money making business. To try and fix long term problems. Why? I do not see any way they will do that.
Auto manufacturers are in the business of making cars. If cars last a long time, they won’t make many, and they won’t make them for long.
Now extend that thinking: if auto makers truly wanted to be environmentally friendly, they would make cars that did last a long time so that as few resources as possible would be consumed making new cars.
The downside of that extended thought is that it impacts the cash flow of a lot of people...what would all of those jobless people do? What would the people who rely on those people having jobs/money do?
I added an Elite Engineering catch can on my 2013 2LT Camaro and it does collect quite a bit of oil/sludge.
Long term I don't think a catch can will prevent carbon build up. It certainly doesn't hurt it though. I'd say the best thing to do is not sit in traffic and try to burn off most of the buildup throughout the car's life. I do Italian tune-ups every day on my way to work. I'll drive at 4k+ RPM for 20+ min. I'm at 86k miles and haven't had any symptoms of carbon build up yet. I avg only 23 mpg but I think it's my driving. I change spark plugs and fuel filter every 40k miles.
Edit: I drive '13 GTI
I agree with everything you said but you cant avoid sitting in traffic all the time if you live in a very congested area.
I drive about 2K miles per month and traffic can’t be avoided.
I open her up whenever I can though, but I’m sure I’ll be doing a walnut shell cleaning about every 50K miles.
2018 Audi S3.
I don't do Dago tuneups and my '99 Tahoe has over 321,000 miles and still runs well. I intend on getting an engine rebuild when smoking or breakdown occurs or other evidence of impending disaster.
Gweedo, your 99 Tahoe is port injected, not direct injected. That's the difference.
@@rennkafer13 Yes, Bill, I am port injected and if and when I move into a direct injected unit I will have my catch systems installed. I currently have a three stage set up. The first catches more water than oil, the second for some reason, does the least and the third gives me a "nice" puddle of oil. I think I will change the stage two to a glass container in place of the ABS homemade container. It would be nice to do a visual check for accumulation on that one as well. If you pull the hose off the PCV and it is dry, success !
.
There is still the issue of carbon coming in through the EGR. I have pulled the module and cleaned hard carbon deposits from it. If I can keep the "T" running long enough I figure my next move would be hybrid or full electric. I am leery of all electric since if you die somewhere how do you juice up without a terminal or your home electric being handy ? The selection of hybrids aint so great right now as I would want a truck type vehicle and they are still mostly geared to cars. Playing the waiting game for better tech and vehicle selection. :-)
You should get a sample chemically analyzed to see what's in there and the percentage. Could tell you more about the engine's health in relation to piston rings and valve seals
Hello Charles. What you have there is mostly Condensation. On the GTI forums many folks have had their Catch Can Goop tested and found it to be mainly what is to be called Condensation. There is some oil in it yes, but not as much as you think. To answer your question? No. I have seen SO MANY reviews and folks that have used these in their MK6 GTI's on the forums, on oil websites, etc that folks that have had Catch Cans on for over 50k miles STILL had carbon build up. If anything, this MIGHT slow it down some. That would all depend on your driving style and where you live. There have been folks in cold climates that have had SERIOUS problems with catch cans causing problems and lets not forget to mention Oil Catch Cans are An AUTOMATIC FAIL in an emissions test here in California, as I am sure any other strict Emissions State. My local Dealer cleans the Valves for $400. This is cheaper than most catch cans, and since it only needs to be done once in a blue moon, I think just getting the valves cleaned every so often is the best way to go. You dont really save any money here, its not proven anyway. Just my ten cents.
Jeff Eppenger are you sure catch cans are a fail in Cali? Its my understanding that catch cans like Mighty Mouse are fine because they arent actually letting anything escape, just allowing the oil to seperate from the air.
Jeff Eppenger this catch can isn't open to atmosphere so the vapours go back into the intake which shouldn't fail emissions test. It's more an aos (air oil separator) than catch can.
Jeff Eppenger best comment I've seen on catch cans. We know it's not 100 percent effective for sure. Your still going to have to clean your intakes , plus the cost if a catch can, plus the motion of cleaning it out more often than not. A change of oil.
Jeff Eppenger -- I think your right, and the condensation is from the catch can it self !
Why not just do an "Italian Tuneup" instead of spending the $400?
Have the contents of OCC analyzed. It may be mostly water. Which could actually have a cleaning effect on the valves.
oil catch can can catch oil
This is exactly what I found when I installed a catch can. The cold air flow in winter time made it fill up with 99% water at a ridiculous rate.
Ended up removing it as I felt it wasn't doing much good.
Maybe what you drained out was designed to clean the back of the intake valves lol.
I saw that and wondered the same. Clearly, it is mostly condensation and a small amount of water injection may be good for a variety of reasons (improved knock resistance, cooler engine temperatures, and some steam cleaning on the back of the valve). Really makes me wonder if a catch can makes things worse or better.
All that shit would go back into your intake. Do you still wanna question if it should be there or not? It's vapours, Sherlock, it's bound to condensate eventually.
@@Lessthanthreeedm yeah we're having a laugh orrite?
I agree with most here. That there is water from blowby with a layer of oil on top. I do think a catch can will help slow the issue of coke build up on intake valves but the only real soultion is to have a small low volume fuel injector wash the valves. Even if its only something that handles a 5% of the motors fuel demands.... then again with more turbocharged and supercharged cars i bet a H2o/meth injection on the back of the valves would work just as well and think bmw has one motor designed as such.
Catch can + water/meth injection = best two friends.
I want water meth injection for mine.
@@sweis12 meth injection will cause the grill to lose teeth and pick marks to cover the fenders
I have a rx performance catch can it was filled with water oil from my 2014 Ford focus with a standard 2.0l I dumped out the catch can every 5k miles. Works really well and I will do also do an intake cleaning using soda media or glass to clean out my intake valves.
That looks to be mostly condensation. Definitely not oil. I don't see that gunking up anything to be honest. Most of that would evaporate in the intake once the engine is at operating temp.
It was mostly oil. I am hanging on to that sample to let it settle out to see what it looks like.
I think the little bit of oil is floating at the top, and everything else is water. It would be cool if you got that tested for make up.
You are right 99% of the times but this is 99% water. ;)
It is condensation, however it has been proven numerous times that the crap going back into the intake reduces performance over time and gums up the back of the intake valves which conventional fuel system cleaner doesn’t clean.
Keeping in mind she's got 2 factory oil separators which sit ahead of this aftermarket add on. I'd say it serves a good purpose keeping all this condensation out of the intake too, water is a combustion product, we don't want it in with the reactants if we can help it :P
Catch can's mainly capture water vapour from the crankcase, some of it is oil and combustion products from blowby, but the overwhelming majority is just water. Still it might be doing something, but I believe most of the carbon build up on the backs of valves comes from oil leaking past the valve stem seals - this is why you tend to see a large carbon blob at the base of the valve stem when you inspect valves on engines that have seen some miles.
Sadly, I've not seen much benefit. Still have to walnut blast the valves every 20k or so.
Run it down and dump it in the exhaust pipe with a high heat silicone hose.
I put an oil catch can on my Volvo S60 T6 because after I did some minor turbo tuning and intake manifold tuning I noticed under heavy acceleration during initial turbo spool the tail pipes seem to let off some smoke but I have very little oil loss effectively none, so I figured must be something recirculating through the intake or something and I figured a oil catch can is the easiest and best thing.. since doing that I no longer get any smoke under full throttle take off and the crap I catch in my catch cans look exactly like the stuff you got, almost watery or no viscosity and think layer of something disgusting on the surface..
That looks like its mostly water.
Daaaang. Ok, I’m convinced. I’m putting this on my stage 3 Cobb Ecoboost. I think it should be required for every car manufacturer to have these things stock. But that’s where the money is right? Maintenance and repairs after a car is sold?😑
Most of the captured content is water and excess gasoline. I run a can on a 2.7 twin turbo Ford and ran them on 5.4 Supercharged Fords but due to my climate I dont get much water in the can, just pure oil. I know yours isnt oil just by looking at it - when you drain the engine oil it will not match the contents in the can or the can contents would be black. It is certainly doing what it is designed to do but the stuff youa re capturing wont play into coking on the valves, it just extends the oil life. When I drain my can on my 2.7 ecoboost I get about 4 oz of oil in 5k miles.
I have a Lexus that runs great, like new. I put a catch can on it just for the hell of it, just to see. I made a 800-mile trip, then checked it and it had approx 1 tablespoon worth of oil in the catch can. Kind of dirty brown-looking oil, The oil in the car is brand new and still showing clear on the dipstick.
Loss of performance? Your catch can is full. Mine fills with just as much.
Nope no lose at all. :)
Was this mostly oil or condensation with a small amount of oil?
Mostly oil from the looks of it
HumbleMechanic I've noticed on my direct injection vehicle I have a 2012 Kia Optima SX it's a turbo and I've noticed the more humidity and or wet weather you have and the colder it is the more Blow by that you catch so I would not wait the full 3000 miles in say winter time because they do fill up a lot faster I have to catch cans on my vehicle with a PCV delete so it goes through both catch cans and I catch quite a bit in the winter time I checked mine at least once a week or every fill-up
HumbleMechanic also there is unburnt fuel water oil ECT in the catch can there is more gas in water than there is oil
Going have you say no, almost no oil. Look how it drained the viscosity was way too low to be oil, It flowed like water. Really all catch cans are a waste of money. Should let the container sit for 24hours and see how it separates.
Hey man I figured it out. I have the 2009 mk5 golf GTI tsi an I used 1 catch can first with the back pcv blocked off an only using the front but was emptying it out very often like this of mainly water the same u had. So now I run both pcv ports open to their own separate catch cans an habe none of the water anymore in either can just some oily mixture now an this is more what I expect an in the last 20,000 miles i still haven't emptied them but they are like 1/4 full now well the back is an the front is only 1/8 full. What I think happens when you blocked the back PCV is the condensation they would normally drip out the tailpipe ends up in the catch can. Because I noticed I no longer had water out of my tailpipe when I was empty in my single catch can that often.. but now I have it out the tailpipe again an not in the catch can. So I run 2 cans now one for both outlets on the pcv with great results. I have been running them since 70,000 and I'm at 95,000 miles now an about to do a timing chain an tensioner job along with the injectors an intake manifold flapper runner sensor as well an I will know how well the catch cans this way worked for me in the last 25,000 miles an will post on here an get back to u.btw love ur videos man
Answer: Hell yes they work
The inlets of my turbos, intercooler piping and low spots along the intercooler were saturated with oily residue and pockets of oil. The inlet of the turbo? Awful!
By adding the catch can, it prevents your motor from ingesting the dirty oily air.
And...intake valves stayed cleaner too.
There it is, you found the (partial) oil "burning" issue in the VW Audi engines. Nasty!
I don't know why this device isn't standard on all Turbo/Direct Injection cars...
IT brings up the price, of the car, and the cost of maintenance.
HumbleMechanic yeah but they could say the same thing about cabin filters :p I hope catch cans become mandatory because without them engine performance and efficiency suffers and that ultimately increases emissions. I'd be more comfortable driving a turbo direct injection car if it came with a catch can from factory.
CSRT4 Ever that's a stupid assumption. That's like saying people are too lazy to change air filters and do oil changes (which they are but at least they let the mechanics do it). Catch cans should be mandatory on all direct injection engines as per emissions requirements
CSRT4 Ever besides what extra maintenance all you gotta do is turn a valve and drain the gunk it's not rocket science. This is no more difficult than adding washer fluid...
CSRT4 Ever that's the consumers problem then. Why are you defending a shitty design that will cause these cars to become junkyard scrap in 10 years. If you feel the consumer is so incompetent then don't you think less people couldn't be bothered to even drive a car?
I would never more drive a diesel without... i made one my self and i love it!
In other words.
Engine designers design their engines with a flawed process in place and so we the end user has to come along and fix their failures.
Interesting as I note they all have fuel filters and air filters and oil filters and even cabin air filters, surly they must have some idea about keeping things clean yet for some reason they don't install catch cans.
Thankfully, we the customer know better than the guys who have millions of dollars to designed and test our engines.
Planned Obsolescence
It's the emissions laws that actually result in our engines being destroyed
We have dyno style E-tests here on the Colorado front range and they, years back, stopped looking under the hood and only scan the underside for a visual on your exhaust system. If Cal disqualifies the catch can I would simply remove it before and then reinstall after the test.
It is not necessarily bad design work as it is also management not wanting to lay out precious pennies and Nickels for a better result. In Delorean's book; "On A Clear Day You Can See General Motors", he outlines time and again how management; the accounting department too, run the roost and it is their influence that dictates the way the product finishes up.
www.amazon.com/Clear-Day-You-General-Motors/dp/0960356207
.
Finally; if every car had a catch can how many would actually do the periodic emptying and even then most would likely throw it on the ground or into garbage that goes to the landfill. I take my used oil and can catch juices to a recycling facility here in Boulder County.
That’s scary! I would have to say it’s a whole heck more possible that trapping this can only be an added benefit. My eyes bugged out when it drained that much
scary? its just water..
This is what comes out of me after I eat Taco Bell
Lol gross. Ha
And it's what goes into you at Taco Bell too, just made to look like food.
It's mostly just collecting water. Not a big help. In cold weather it is actually a pretty big risk. If that can fills up before you get a chance to empty it all that junk will get gulped back into the intake all at once. If it freezes , even worse. Pcv won't work and pressure will build it in the crank case.
In my opinion these risks aren't worth the reward.
I'd be interested to know what it's made up of? You should send it to a lab for testing lol I'm guessing I'm not the only one who's curious ;)
Yep spoke with BlackStone about that. I will be sending the engine oil and this sample to them
Excellent!!
Still no followup yet, so it's going to be oil, fuel and water is what makes that mess up.
Any results from the sample?
Blowby (produced by all engines, new and old; severity is the difference). All the nasty crud (oil, fuel, emissions etc) that used to be spat right onto the road as you went, until environmental hoo-hah changed that in the 70's. This crud was never meant to recirculate back to the engine. The fact that it does, since this environmental hoo-hah, is a factor in why vehicles don't last as long as they used to. The catch-can is a "gray area" compromise, as far as most States are concerned. Apparently you will actually fail SMOG if you don't reconnect the block-side hoses directly to the manifold, as it was originally (if you install one, account for that necessity later). And it would prove most effective if you've installed it basically right after you've bought new off the lot (before that crud builds up and fouls it all up)... though older, already fouled up vehicles will also benefit to an extent (their blowby will be significantly greater than a new/er vehicle. All that crud eventually will start affecting even the throttle body and idle air control valves and causing more problems down the line. These can help mitigate that too, buy you more time to decide to rebuild or junk it).
Oil catch cans are a must in Force Induction Applications. Oil and any other contaminates that enter the cylinders / intake can change the octane of the fuel and detonate prematurely causing damage over time.
Oil low? Pour that stuff into the oil and bring the level back up. Problem solved! ;)
LOL, yeah the oil was low. I am gonna save it for another time. :)
If any of that was engine oil that would work, but 99% of what came out was water.
HumbleMechanic
I save it for Friday night shots with the crew.
It's usually a nasty oil/water mix.
Looked like sulfur in there too. you running diesel In that thing? That would build up the carbon😃
I am not a Mac but i think it will not solve the carbon build up because the valves opening and closing will let a tinny Carbon thruw and causes the carbon to crash into the walls of the intake manifold and stay there until cleaned (maybe I am wrong )🤔keep it good work I learn alot from your channels like this
A tech at Further Performance, here in Minnesota, advised against catch cans because they can freeze here. I am on a 5,000 mile oil change cycle partly to reduce the crud that can land on my intake valves. I also drove 20 minutes on the freeway in 4th gear (3,000 -3,500 rpm) for my own "Italian tune-up".
I wonder how much of the catch-can liquid was water, and if the ethanol in the fuel brought water in from the air.
must have been cold outside as that was mostly condensate
it does work.
my throttle plate stay clean for months after i installed an oil catch can on my nissan.
o2 sensor stay much cleaner too.
to all my youtube friends try to use an engine oil with lower noack volatility.
Along with a catch can, introducing water injection through the intake system under hard throttle would yield the most effective method of keeping the valves clean. This can easily be achieved with a throttle or rpm switch.
Because of direct injection, the intake valve runs hotter, thus water injection would have multiple benefits.
I can't help but wonder how much condensation is from the catch can itself. Like a single pane window, condensation appears due to cold outside air, warm inside. (draws the moisture out of the air to the cold surface and then condensates)