Something I wanted to add about this can. I don’t really like the fact that you have to remove the engine mount bolt to remove the can. I think using the stud on the bolt would be perfectly fine to hold the bottom of the can. With this setup, technically you will have to buy a new bolt each time you remove the can to empty it. While the bolt is cheap, it’s silly to have to order a part, just to empty the catch can. I also think that if something like thread locker is required, it should come in the kit. Id rather pay $3 more than have to deal with getting my own thread lock. I actually feel the same way about the bolt and the seal too. INCLUDE IT ALL!
Encountered this same thing on the AddW1 can I just installed in my Elantra GT - now that you mentioned the torque spec I'm gonna go check it out. Also going to get an easy drain fitting so I don't have to remove it.
I was really surprized about it not including the seal.. pretty cheap part for an expensive item. Also agree about the SAE part and mounting of the actual can. Glad i went with spullen on this. As always, great video man!
When i finally get one I'll be getting one of these if they're still around. You'd think there would be a drain plug at the bottom. www.ezmods.co/product-page/catch-can-quick-release-drain-kit-for-racingline-catch-can
Super psyched you posted this video, as I just ordered the same can the other day and wanted to have a comprehensive reference. Here’s a solution to your bolt concern (ordered mine so it can be installed at the same time as the cam itself): industrialtecsupply.com/products/fumoto-b106sx-360-degree-rotatable-motorcycle-quick-oil-drain-valve-m14-1-5
I dont even have a Golf R, just love watching your videos, so well made, my favourite youtuber, super high quality videos, keep up the good work Charles 👍
You're right - there isn't much baffling inside the can. It's not going to do much for cleaning up a fine oil mist. On my Audi track car (similar engine), I tried 2 different catch cans from 2 of the big names in VW-Audi performance stuff. I based how well they worked on how much crud was found in the can, and also how nasty the insides of the intercoolers were when I took them out for cleaning. Neither big-name catch can did squat. So then I tried an actually engineered (German) catch can- the Mann ProVent. It has all kinds of functionally engineered innards including a high-oil-affinity gas filter. It frikkin WORKS orders of magnitude better. Downside - they don't come in kits - just different size units so you're on your own for fabricating virtually everything you need except the can itself. The other thing, regardless of what can you have, on my engine there are 2 ways for crankcase gasses to get into the intake, depending on what the PCV sandwich thing is doing, either into the intake manifold or thru the head down into the turbo. Both paths must be defeated to keep the intake 100% clean. Not even the Mann ProVent can clean with 100% efficiency, but the others were a joke.
I had no idea Mann made a catch can. Just looked into the ProVent 200 and it's a beast! The one Charles installed likely won't do a thing with the lack of any real baffling.
Charles, I just started watching your videos because I am considering the purchase of a Golf R. I have to say that I'll continue coming back to your segments. Thanks for all of the details that you provide and the additional comments to help make sure the projects go smoothly. GREAT JOB!
This was a great video! In Ohio using a catch can is based on how much time you have to maintain it. If you are running it year round it needs to be checked weekly if the temps are below freezing and hitting negative numbers at night. After I got married I got rid of it because it took way to much time to check and empty it or verify nothing was freezing in the lines.
Entertaining video as always Charles - you manage to detail the entire process clearly and succinctly without it sounding like a lecture. BTW - Someone should make a retrofit kit to have a 5th fuel injector tap into the air inlet tube downwind of the MAS to act as a de-carbon valve/runner cleaner. Almost like a Mk1 CIS cold start injector. It would require a reprogram of the engine management software to run at certain intervals and a modified fuel curve as to not run rich. Sure beats a +$1000 service every few years to clean the engine. Probably a liability and warranty issue, but still just a thought. Cheers!
I installed one of these on a 2007 GTI with the FSI engine and based on my experience these catch cans do not help prevent carbon build-up on the intake valves! The valves still had to be regularly cleaned around every 60,000 miles. Just my experience
Depends on the internals of the can, its efficiency and if there's a secondary breathing outlet from the head into any part of your intake. Speaking from experience too. I've been dealing with a few projects myself and from what i can tell is that the majority of catch can systems out there will prevent thick oil from oozing at the intake system but they don't stop fine particles suspended in the air. Not to mention the cylinder head breather, than normally goes into the unpressurized end of the intake, just before compressor. I've dealt with a car that had issues constantly with black gunk forming around throttle which caused idling issues and MAF errors constantly. The catch can helped but didn't resolve it all, i was still having gunk forming around the throttle but it was taking twice as much time to happen. I've seen another project with a small volume industrial coalescing filter after the catch can. The can was retaining the big oil flow but the coalescing filter after it was picking a big flow of a black, oily water. And the flow wasn't that minimal, it was considerable. Also, another coalescing filter added to the head breather would help but in that case it wasn't neccessary.
@@HumbleMechanic I can guarantee you won't see anything in the catch can from street driving, BUT you'll definitely see oil if you track your car. When I was on the track without a catch can, threshold braking with track pads & sticky tires would get oil to overwhelm the stock PCV and puke in the intake, leaving behind me clouds of smoke to the point where I had the track marshalls ask me about it.
Install water/methanol system. My 2013 CC was just scoped at 42000 miles and there is ZERO build up. It’s all clean inside the engine. Water/meth has also enabled me to run APR Stage 2 104 octane tune. I run this tune 100%. The W/M is controlled by the MAF. It only sprays when I drive aggressively. Has never caused a single check engine code in almost two years 20000 miles. Just add a couple bottles of yellow HEET to -20 washer fluid and use the washer reservoir as dual purpose. 40-50 degree cooler intake air temps, super clean engine internals, ability to run 104 octane tune. And for not much more money than a stupid catch can.
Hey man, big hello from Oregon! You inspired me to buy a mk7.5 golf R honestly and I’m picking it up later this month. The quality of these videos is amazing, definitely the best golf R owner on TH-cam.
Yeah winter is a bugger on a catch can for sure. I actually was able to find a thin black sleeve foam sock for a beer can and just slid it up my catch can. It really helped to slow down condensing the PCV gasses and filling it up with oil and fuel. Moisture wasn't to bad but some mornings I'd drain the can and there would be an inch of ice in the bottom... Not a big deal. Drive around town for a while and it melt and just unscrew the can and all be gone once thawed out. Here In Canada where I live I'd have to dump it every 3-4 days due to -20 to -30C weather. And Another great video @HumbleMechanic I really enjoy your channel.
I have used catch cans from Billet Technology on three cars, a Mercury Cougar 3.8, and my 65 MGB. I installed one when I purchased my 2010 Dodge Charger and I can tell you they work great. No need to remove the can to empty it, just screw off the bottom part, and dump out the oil. The BT cans utilize stainless steel mesh to catch the oil. I would recommend one of these cans, even if you have to make some mods to make it fit properly. Just my $.02 of course.
I installed mine a couple months ago and the hardest part was taking the pipe off the turbo inlet and trying to make the gasket stay. Lol the rest was easy. Already see it collecting oil in the catch can. Probably going to dump whatever is in there now soon.
I've been disappointed in some of the "baffled" catch cans that I've installed in customer cars and even my own. A long time ago I came across some no-name heavy-duty steel "pot scrubbers". Not really steel wool, but much thicker. Anyway, the stuff was super cheap and sold in bulk so I bought a bunch of it and have been using it to stuff into non-baffled and poorly "baffled" vapor catch cans. It works especially well with cans that have a tube on the inlet side. I've tested two very different motors with and without the steel media in the catch can and having it made a big difference in both applications with a lot more liquid collected in the same number of miles driven.
Really curious to watch for the results of having the catch can. The idea seems like a no brainer to get that junk out of the system, but then again cars run for a long time without it. I'm definitely surprised they didn't take advantage of the stud on top of the bolt. Seems like a LOT of hardware to hold this thing down. I'm really happy you cleared up the whole washer bottle relocation for me. For all of the pictures I've seen of this install I could never find where the washer filler was actually relocated to. No wonder, it gets completely replaced!
Such a great experiment. Frankly I think the cyclone separator that is on the stock car is more efficient. I'm eager to see the result though we all might need to get used to walnut blasting every 30k miles or so. Because the rate of carbon build up is likely linear, when you clean the valves again if you measure the thickness of the coating first you can project how much carbon it might have at a particular mileage. Hopefully you put miles on it quickly.
I know it's the worst for emissions but venting to air is BY FAR - The best method for protecting your engine! I did it to my MK3 16v GTI Golf way back and when I got my 2.0 Tfsi Eos I looked into these catch cans and just by looking at them I knew they're just useless and as you know those gasses are way more harmful to the TFSI so I just got a PCV Delete plate and ran both hoses (the one from the engine cover and the one from the oil pan) into a Y-pipe, then down and back to the rear wheel.
I agree with using the same size fitting. I work on bowling pinsetters and the old mechanic used whatever he wanted/hand on hand. 99% is SAE and every once in a while I come across a metric bolt and have to go back to the workshop and grab it, usually just for the one nut or bolt.
Last month I bought CTS Turbo Oil Catch Can Kit via ECS Tunning. Similar kit for a 2016 Audi S3 8V. Installation was pretty straight forward just like this kit. The kit looks great. After I installed the kit, the next day Check engine light on, rough idle and misfiring on cylinder 1 and 2. So I started troubleshooting, Coils were new a week old before catch can install so as spark plugs. Reverted back to OEM spark plugs and coils same issue, finally EPC light on, car when into limp mode. That's when I finally decided to remove the kit. I returned the kit back, ECS Tunning send the kit back to CTS. By the way I attempted to contact CTS and got no response. CTS costumer service sucks. After several weeks waiting ECS contact me and they issue a full refund. ECS Tunning told me it's rare for them get full refund from the manufacturer and no restocking fee. I almost bought this kit that you install. But I was concerned to have the same issue. Audi's seems to be very picky and sensitive with vacuum. I'm convinced the issue was cause by a poor design of the PCV Oil valve replacement plate. And so I bought ECS Tunning Oil Catch can that retain the OEM Pcv valve in place. Been running it over a week with no issues so far. My only complain with this kits. Is that they don't have a petcock valve for drain. That would be great to have. To avoid removing the catch can. Just like in this kit the mounting bracket does not let room to install a petcock valve. I would like to see a manufacturer coming with a bracket solution for it. Only kit I have seen with a petcock valve is Spulen oil catch can system.
I completely agree about mixing metric and imperial, its a pet peeve of mine as well. My old RS had that issue from factory with upper and under body fasteners, drove me up the wall lol.
I completely agree! It's frustrating to have to get the SAE tool for just one bolt or nut. I keep my SAE tools separately from the metric because I don't use them often so it's a pain to have to get that one socket or wrench out when you know they could have just designed it to be all metric lol
I agree with your nitpickiness here, especially with the engine mount bolt and the 11/16 hex head. Racingline stuff is typically the most expensive option available for any given mod for VWs, and that premium price should get you a premium kit. Especially since VWR/Racingline *loves* to tout their whole "we run a VW factory supported racing team so we're kinda sorta OEM even though we're actually not," schtick.
I also have this kit on mine, the thing that drives me MOST nuts about the whole thing is that while it's an excellently engineered solution, when it's all done the racingline logo is upside down on the washer refill
Idk if ur familiar or not but the best way to clean the valves it walnut blasting cleans much better and faster then trying to use brushes like you were in the beginning of the video. I personally just tape off the intake ports and just leave the one open that I am cleaning at the time and I have a shop vac running while I’m blasting. You can buy these foam inserts to block off the intake ports or even make them urself out of foam but I just use tape. After I’m done with whatever set of intake valves I will use a brush with some spray solvent to get the last bit of crap out and use a blow gun, then tape that port off and move on to the next one.
Bro can you make video about DSG , How reliable is that , is it better than simple automatic , what disadvantages DSG's have if we would compare it to automatic trans. And about common problems , what problems did you meet with DSG working as a technician ,thanks
Great video! I debated putting the same kit on my GLI, but I'm not all about removing it every time winter rolls into Pennsylvania. I'll be patiently waiting for the next peek at the valves to see the results.
I worked many years as a tech for Volkswagen. The carbon build up in the valves is also a problem in Audi which I also work for. And it’s cause by direct injection design. A catch can may alíviate it a little but I will not make it go away.
Hopefully you can access the drain without taking removing the engine mount bolt every time. I've seen people install quick valves with tubing that extends down to the underbelly of the car. Great video as always. Love your content!
Sadly you really can't access it. You can install a 90° with a valve like my BFI had. So if you don't add the valve, you are technically replacing the bolt every time you empty
After using all kinds of catch cans on my mk7 tdi without results ,i pluged the pcv turbo inlet and rerouted the pcv to the back of my car venting it to the atmosphere using cheap 19mm silicone hose . cost: 10 euros + 30 minutes work.
Question: That drain plug seems a bit tight and/or hard to get to. Would I have to take out the tank each time to empty it, or how would that be emptied out. I have a Mk7 GTI and want to add this same catch can, but am wondering about your experience emptying it out. As Always Great Video, Thank you.
I installed the Black Forest catch can on my MK7 GTI about a year ago and the catch can is always dry. Not even moisture accumulates. Have you ever come across on something like this? Is the catch can even doing anything? Thank you and as always I enjoy your videos. Keep it up.
Hey Charles, How is the catch can after two years of installation? How are the intake valves now withouy the oil recirculating through them? Your videos are the best!
I ended up going with the Racingline turbo inlet pipe. My IE one didn't fit that well in the turbo. It always seemed loose and I felt like it was sucking air from around the fitting... The Racingline one fit perfect and tight.
To remove the coil packs you can just use a couple of zip ties looped up. One on either side of the coil pack and you can just lift them up. Super simple, super cheap and no need for a specialty tool.
I ran a catch can for about 35k-40k miles on a mk6 gti. I went and got a valve cleaning done at around 50k. From what i saw in person from what pictures ive seen online, i didn't see the catch can make much of a difference. Just my experience with using a catch can. Might be different for others but i wouldn't consider buying a catch can from that point on.
that's because a lot of the oil mist blowby sticks to the hot valves and intake areas right away and never makes it to the catch can, btw the EU spec'd EA888.3 also has low pressure port injection so don't have carbon buildup issues at all
Well that sux. I just moved to Germany and it gets pretty cold out here during the winter season. Was gonna order this this week but gonna have to wait till we get back in the states.
AN fittings (Also called JIC, 37 degree flare, etc) is an SAE J514 standard, so if you want to use AN fittings you're going to have to live with imperial dimensions. There are metric flare fitting standards but are far less common.
Couple things... why not reuse the spring clips off the old N80? You cut that N80 hose a bit short. 15:00 That's an aircon hose, not a coolant line. It's also worth clarifying that you're not getting rid of the washer bottle, just reducing it's capacity by removing the secondary bottle. The lower bottle remains.
I think a better system would be the Mann Hummel Provent series. It uses a oil separater. It is mostly used on heavy equipment but, it can also be used on cars. They want you to return it to the sump, but if you could have it collect in a can that would be better.
Hey man great video as always, removing the bolt every time def sucks but it looks really good...I have a question un related.. I have my mk4 GTI and swapped from 5 to 6 speed also from dmf to smf.. It shifts fine if not running.. When started it wont go into any gears.. I was wondering if there is anything else to add during this swap or is it most likely air in the line..??? Any insight I appreciate..Thank you ...Love your videos
Charles great vid as usual, isnt more of the oil separation done in the can portion, the baffle plate is just to keep surging out or am i not following the design? Be well my friend!
I have a 1.4 Jetta and with 20k miles the valves were caked in carbon, I followed your video on how to clean them. Now on my EA211 I have to oil catch cans, one from the PCV to the turbo and a second for the oil separator under my intake. Idk if you my have one
I maybe a bit late, but if you empty your catch can in COLD temps, and that means every time you drive and you stop. it sucks, but its better than taking it off or on! BFI ( Black Forest Industries ), have threaded the bottom of the catch can so you can install a valve before you install the catch can, a valve with a tube attached to it, open it, empty it! volla!
How is possible carbon build up in golf r if there should be a dual injection system...direct and the mpi ..so the second one should clean valves when its work.....great canal...best regards from europa
It looks great Now do some 1k miles then show us the wall of the outlet hose to see if any oil gets past the catch can :) I didn’t see the new pcv valve 🤷♂️ how does the top part replaces the pcv?!
I have one on my MK7.5 GTI, they should be factory equipment they collect so much fluid. It's incredible how much crap goes back into the intake. I have a Spulen system on mine though.
Great video.Very detailed and informative video so that this can be done by someone who does not have so much knowledge. Please for information on the exact torque screwing of the bolts on the valve cover after replacing the gasket on passat B5.5 1,9TDi, 74 KW,2003 year, AVB PD motor.Thanks dude.
SAE tooling for that banjo bolt because they are still an imperial thread, and you will never be able to change that, as it is a 1/4 inch pipe fitting. Just remember your caliper bolts, brake fitting threads and all hydraulic fittings are a metric equivalent fitting, because the old stuff was changed to nearest size. 2.5 and 4mm hex keys, very common in industrial machinery, though I will tell you that, if they do get seized fast, the easiest way to get them out is to have a few of those ultra cheap 30 piece 1/4in hex driver sets, and look for the Torx bit that will just not fit in, and tap it into the damaged hex head, so you can turn it out. Will get it out, and if you do not have a replacement capscrew, you can put it back in again with it, and wriggle it with a pair of pliers to get the bit out, making it into a Torx head. Done that very often, because you might need that machine to run right there and then, and driving to get a new one, adding an extra hour of breakdown time, is often not an option. Make a note to keep that size as spare parts, for the next visit. I go through a lot of those size, M4 and M5, as they are a common thread, and you find often the stainless steel will gall fast to the aluminium parts if you do not use a thread sealer on them, especially if they get hot. I also have the thread repair kits for those sizes in various lengths, and the extractors for the broken screws, though you really burn through cobalt drill bits doing that, especially for the 8.8 high strength variant, and the left hand thread version drill bits are stupid expensive, even in plain HSS. Ridgid do make a really nice extractor set, but sadly the lifetime warranty does not apply by me, so I have had to buy some replacement sets along the way, because I always break the smaller sizes.
Question Charles..... why would you need the special AN wrenches when you solved the problem of not having them so simply and cheaply??? Just wondering. I agree with the non metric bolt on a metric bolt using car.... but I'm picky like that as well. Lol
I watched the video.... I'm not sure of the washer relocation,....i really don't like the tiny black bottle. But I was thinking about a "modified" washer bottle in front of the engine, by the fans. Like have a plastics company measure, injection mold plastic to form a redesigned washer bottle.... just my 2 cents idea lol. I like the catch can idea. I want that in my sub. Soon.
Hi! I have some questions about the design of the Oil Catch Can that you use. The hole at the bottom left (when you see the inner side of the original PCV) is actually linked to the crankcase, and the hole at the right side of it is linked to the position behind the throttle to generate negative pressure. So, based on the design of the Oil Catch Can, since they do not have a hole on it, it seems that the pressure in the crankcase is not easy to go out.
Why didn't you use a universal adjustable metric wrench on that standard bolt?? How do you drain the can once it's full? Do you have to remove the whole thing and pour out the liquid? Or undo the bottom drain screw which hopefully is accessible from below? Might need to install a petcock valve on that can?
Post some more vids of the vw r32 and the haldex system that tends to leak alot mines started leaking after I just serviced it I didnt over fill I'm thinking it's the breather hose seems to be coming from the top of the haldex...any advice ?? Anyways keep up the good work bud
Naturally aspirated master race :) Is that product somewhat half-assed, you have to remove engine mount bolt to remove the can / even remove it when you install it. There is thread on the mount bolt already why not use that
So what do you do for crank case pressure?! You should really tell people that drive with spirit that these closed loop systems create pressure. I installed this on my Audi TT and kept blowing out main seal. Took it off and made my custom setup so I can catch blow by and still release the crankcase pressure. No problems.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Something I wanted to add about this can. I don’t really like the fact that you have to remove the engine mount bolt to remove the can. I think using the stud on the bolt would be perfectly fine to hold the bottom of the can. With this setup, technically you will have to buy a new bolt each time you remove the can to empty it. While the bolt is cheap, it’s silly to have to order a part, just to empty the catch can.
I also think that if something like thread locker is required, it should come in the kit. Id rather pay $3 more than have to deal with getting my own thread lock. I actually feel the same way about the bolt and the seal too. INCLUDE IT ALL!
Encountered this same thing on the AddW1 can I just installed in my Elantra GT - now that you mentioned the torque spec I'm gonna go check it out. Also going to get an easy drain fitting so I don't have to remove it.
I agree about the mounting bolt. But maybe they were following in the spirit of replacing hardware every time you work on your car? 🤨
I was really surprized about it not including the seal.. pretty cheap part for an expensive item.
Also agree about the SAE part and mounting of the actual can.
Glad i went with spullen on this.
As always, great video man!
When i finally get one I'll be getting one of these if they're still around. You'd think there would be a drain plug at the bottom. www.ezmods.co/product-page/catch-can-quick-release-drain-kit-for-racingline-catch-can
Super psyched you posted this video, as I just ordered the same can the other day and wanted to have a comprehensive reference. Here’s a solution to your bolt concern (ordered mine so it can be installed at the same time as the cam itself): industrialtecsupply.com/products/fumoto-b106sx-360-degree-rotatable-motorcycle-quick-oil-drain-valve-m14-1-5
I dont even have a Golf R, just love watching your videos, so well made, my favourite youtuber, super high quality videos, keep up the good work Charles 👍
Would absolutely love to have a mechanic like you working on my car...
You're right - there isn't much baffling inside the can. It's not going to do much for cleaning up a fine oil mist. On my Audi track car (similar engine), I tried 2 different catch cans from 2 of the big names in VW-Audi performance stuff. I based how well they worked on how much crud was found in the can, and also how nasty the insides of the intercoolers were when I took them out for cleaning. Neither big-name catch can did squat. So then I tried an actually engineered (German) catch can- the Mann ProVent. It has all kinds of functionally engineered innards including a high-oil-affinity gas filter. It frikkin WORKS orders of magnitude better. Downside - they don't come in kits - just different size units so you're on your own for fabricating virtually everything you need except the can itself. The other thing, regardless of what can you have, on my engine there are 2 ways for crankcase gasses to get into the intake, depending on what the PCV sandwich thing is doing, either into the intake manifold or thru the head down into the turbo. Both paths must be defeated to keep the intake 100% clean. Not even the Mann ProVent can clean with 100% efficiency, but the others were a joke.
I had no idea Mann made a catch can. Just looked into the ProVent 200 and it's a beast! The one Charles installed likely won't do a thing with the lack of any real baffling.
pretty sure your supposed to fill the can with steel wool
How much efficiency are the intercoolers losing from all the crud.
Charles, I just started watching your videos because I am considering the purchase of a Golf R. I have to say that I'll continue coming back to your segments. Thanks for all of the details that you provide and the additional comments to help make sure the projects go smoothly. GREAT JOB!
Awesome!!! Thank you. Can’t wait to see your Golf
This was a great video! In Ohio using a catch can is based on how much time you have to maintain it. If you are running it year round it needs to be checked weekly if the temps are below freezing and hitting negative numbers at night. After I got married I got rid of it because it took way to much time to check and empty it or verify nothing was freezing in the lines.
Entertaining video as always Charles - you manage to detail the entire process clearly and succinctly without it sounding like a lecture.
BTW - Someone should make a retrofit kit to have a 5th fuel injector tap into the air inlet tube downwind of the MAS to act as a de-carbon valve/runner cleaner. Almost like a Mk1 CIS cold start injector. It would require a reprogram of the engine management software to run at certain intervals and a modified fuel curve as to not run rich. Sure beats a +$1000 service every few years to clean the engine. Probably a liability and warranty issue, but still just a thought. Cheers!
I installed one of these on a 2007 GTI with the FSI engine and based on my experience these catch cans do not help prevent carbon build-up on the intake valves! The valves still had to be regularly cleaned around every 60,000 miles. Just my experience
I Am expecting the same thing.
Depends on the internals of the can, its efficiency and if there's a secondary breathing outlet from the head into any part of your intake. Speaking from experience too.
I've been dealing with a few projects myself and from what i can tell is that the majority of catch can systems out there will prevent thick oil from oozing at the intake system but they don't stop fine particles suspended in the air.
Not to mention the cylinder head breather, than normally goes into the unpressurized end of the intake, just before compressor.
I've dealt with a car that had issues constantly with black gunk forming around throttle which caused idling issues and MAF errors constantly.
The catch can helped but didn't resolve it all, i was still having gunk forming around the throttle but it was taking twice as much time to happen.
I've seen another project with a small volume industrial coalescing filter after the catch can. The can was retaining the big oil flow but the coalescing filter after it was picking a big flow of a black, oily water. And the flow wasn't that minimal, it was considerable.
Also, another coalescing filter added to the head breather would help but in that case it wasn't neccessary.
@@HumbleMechanic I can guarantee you won't see anything in the catch can from street driving, BUT you'll definitely see oil if you track your car.
When I was on the track without a catch can, threshold braking with track pads & sticky tires would get oil to overwhelm the stock PCV and puke in the intake, leaving behind me clouds of smoke to the point where I had the track marshalls ask me about it.
Install water/methanol system. My 2013 CC was just scoped at 42000 miles and there is ZERO build up. It’s all clean inside the engine.
Water/meth has also enabled me to run APR Stage 2 104 octane tune. I run this tune 100%. The W/M is controlled by the MAF. It only sprays when I drive aggressively. Has never caused a single check engine code in almost two years 20000 miles. Just add a couple bottles of yellow HEET to -20 washer fluid and use the washer reservoir as dual purpose. 40-50 degree cooler intake air temps, super clean engine internals, ability to run 104 octane tune. And for not much more money than a stupid catch can.
Less blow by at higher rpm is worth it though
Hey man, big hello from Oregon! You inspired me to buy a mk7.5 golf R honestly and I’m picking it up later this month. The quality of these videos is amazing, definitely the best golf R owner on TH-cam.
I like how you're so careful with the AN fittings. In the USAF, we just snug them up with open-ended wrenches, safety wire them, and call it a day 😌
eldom72 because safety wire, when done properly, is amazing.
Yeah winter is a bugger on a catch can for sure. I actually was able to find a thin black sleeve foam sock for a beer can and just slid it up my catch can. It really helped to slow down condensing the PCV gasses and filling it up with oil and fuel. Moisture wasn't to bad but some mornings I'd drain the can and there would be an inch of ice in the bottom... Not a big deal. Drive around town for a while and it melt and just unscrew the can and all be gone once thawed out. Here In Canada where I live I'd have to dump it every 3-4 days due to -20 to -30C weather.
And Another great video @HumbleMechanic I really enjoy your channel.
Great insight Brad! Thank you
I have used catch cans from Billet Technology on three cars, a Mercury Cougar 3.8, and my 65 MGB. I installed one when I purchased my 2010 Dodge Charger and I can tell you they work great. No need to remove the can to empty it, just screw off the bottom part, and dump out the oil. The BT cans utilize stainless steel mesh to catch the oil. I would recommend one of these cans, even if you have to make some mods to make it fit properly. Just my $.02 of course.
I installed mine a couple months ago and the hardest part was taking the pipe off the turbo inlet and trying to make the gasket stay. Lol the rest was easy. Already see it collecting oil in the catch can. Probably going to dump whatever is in there now soon.
I've been disappointed in some of the "baffled" catch cans that I've installed in customer cars and even my own. A long time ago I came across some no-name heavy-duty steel "pot scrubbers". Not really steel wool, but much thicker. Anyway, the stuff was super cheap and sold in bulk so I bought a bunch of it and have been using it to stuff into non-baffled and poorly "baffled" vapor catch cans. It works especially well with cans that have a tube on the inlet side. I've tested two very different motors with and without the steel media in the catch can and having it made a big difference in both applications with a lot more liquid collected in the same number of miles driven.
Really curious to watch for the results of having the catch can. The idea seems like a no brainer to get that junk out of the system, but then again cars run for a long time without it. I'm definitely surprised they didn't take advantage of the stud on top of the bolt. Seems like a LOT of hardware to hold this thing down.
I'm really happy you cleared up the whole washer bottle relocation for me. For all of the pictures I've seen of this install I could never find where the washer filler was actually relocated to. No wonder, it gets completely replaced!
I don’t even have a golf r or a mk7 gen for that matter but I always appreciate these great videos
Such a great experiment. Frankly I think the cyclone separator that is on the stock car is more efficient. I'm eager to see the result though we all might need to get used to walnut blasting every 30k miles or so. Because the rate of carbon build up is likely linear, when you clean the valves again if you measure the thickness of the coating first you can project how much carbon it might have at a particular mileage. Hopefully you put miles on it quickly.
I know it's the worst for emissions but venting to air is BY FAR - The best method for protecting your engine! I did it to my MK3 16v GTI Golf way back and when I got my 2.0 Tfsi Eos I looked into these catch cans and just by looking at them I knew they're just useless and as you know those gasses are way more harmful to the TFSI so I just got a PCV Delete plate and ran both hoses (the one from the engine cover and the one from the oil pan) into a Y-pipe, then down and back to the rear wheel.
Woah, I thought I was gonna watch a video you've already uploaded but, apparently this is a new one. Sweet!
Same
In the uk we make drain kits, banjo bolt for the bottom of the catch can a small valve and rubber hose, no more removing the can to empty it 👍
I like that a lot. The BFI can I installed had that too
HumbleMechanic look up Ezmods on FB and his online store you will get the idea. I’ve made one just got to get off my arse and fit it 🤦♂️👍
I've fabricated and installed a catch can/oil separator system in my Nissan and the amount of oil that thing catches is crazy.
I agree with using the same size fitting. I work on bowling pinsetters and the old mechanic used whatever he wanted/hand on hand. 99% is SAE and every once in a while I come across a metric bolt and have to go back to the workshop and grab it, usually just for the one nut or bolt.
I just received my cts catch can for my mk7 gti, nice surprise to see this video drop today.
awesome! I wonder how the install will go vs this one. I liked that their kit ran the one hose around the backside of the engine
I have been an aircraft mechanic for 32 years now. Never ever saw a mechanic use those special AN wrenches.
Hello sir
Could you tell me if the audi s3 from 2016 also has a lot of carbon build up ?
Last month I bought CTS Turbo Oil Catch Can Kit via ECS Tunning. Similar kit for a 2016 Audi S3 8V. Installation was pretty straight forward just like this kit. The kit looks great. After I installed the kit, the next day Check engine light on, rough idle and misfiring on cylinder 1 and 2. So I started troubleshooting, Coils were new a week old before catch can install so as spark plugs. Reverted back to OEM spark plugs and coils same issue, finally EPC light on, car when into limp mode. That's when I finally decided to remove the kit. I returned the kit back, ECS Tunning send the kit back to CTS. By the way I attempted to contact CTS and got no response. CTS costumer service sucks. After several weeks waiting ECS contact me and they issue a full refund. ECS Tunning told me it's rare for them get full refund from the manufacturer and no restocking fee.
I almost bought this kit that you install. But I was concerned to have the same issue. Audi's seems to be very picky and sensitive with vacuum. I'm convinced the issue was cause by a poor design of the PCV Oil valve replacement plate.
And so I bought ECS Tunning Oil Catch can that retain the OEM Pcv valve in place. Been running it over a week with no issues so far.
My only complain with this kits. Is that they don't have a petcock valve for drain. That would be great to have. To avoid removing the catch can. Just like in this kit the mounting bracket does not let room to install a petcock valve. I would like to see a manufacturer coming with a bracket solution for it.
Only kit I have seen with a petcock valve is Spulen oil catch can system.
That’s odd. I would have loved to check crank case pressure on yours. Lol
@@HumbleMechanic If only you'll be close to San Antonio. Lol!
I completely agree about mixing metric and imperial, its a pet peeve of mine as well. My old RS had that issue from factory with upper and under body fasteners, drove me up the wall lol.
I completely agree! It's frustrating to have to get the SAE tool for just one bolt or nut. I keep my SAE tools separately from the metric because I don't use them often so it's a pain to have to get that one socket or wrench out when you know they could have just designed it to be all metric lol
I agree with your nitpickiness here, especially with the engine mount bolt and the 11/16 hex head. Racingline stuff is typically the most expensive option available for any given mod for VWs, and that premium price should get you a premium kit. Especially since VWR/Racingline *loves* to tout their whole "we run a VW factory supported racing team so we're kinda sorta OEM even though we're actually not," schtick.
YEP!
I also have this kit on mine, the thing that drives me MOST nuts about the whole thing is that while it's an excellently engineered solution, when it's all done the racingline logo is upside down on the washer refill
I'm really looking forward to the before and after catch can result but i guess we are going to have to wait a while for it
Idk if ur familiar or not but the best way to clean the valves it walnut blasting cleans much better and faster then trying to use brushes like you were in the beginning of the video. I personally just tape off the intake ports and just leave the one open that I am cleaning at the time and I have a shop vac running while I’m blasting. You can buy these foam inserts to block off the intake ports or even make them urself out of foam but I just use tape. After I’m done with whatever set of intake valves I will use a brush with some spray solvent to get the last bit of crap out and use a blow gun, then tape that port off and move on to the next one.
Charles always makes it look so easy.
Bro can you make video about DSG , How reliable is that , is it better than simple automatic , what disadvantages DSG's have if we would compare it to automatic trans. And about common problems , what problems did you meet with DSG working as a technician ,thanks
Great video! I debated putting the same kit on my GLI, but I'm not all about removing it every time winter rolls into Pennsylvania. I'll be patiently waiting for the next peek at the valves to see the results.
Uncle Vauxhall told me about your channel and vids. Joy to watch what you are building up.
Thank you
Awesome video HM. I'm a fan and now a subscriber!
I worked many years as a tech for Volkswagen. The carbon build up in the valves is also a problem in Audi which I also work for. And it’s cause by direct injection design. A catch can may alíviate it a little but I will not make it go away.
Even my Ford Focus is all metric. So I feel your pain with non metric fasteners. Also I love how clean my valve cover looks compared to VWs.
Hopefully you can access the drain without taking removing the engine mount bolt every time. I've seen people install quick valves with tubing that extends down to the underbelly of the car. Great video as always. Love your content!
Sadly you really can't access it. You can install a 90° with a valve like my BFI had. So if you don't add the valve, you are technically replacing the bolt every time you empty
After using all kinds of catch cans on my mk7 tdi without results ,i pluged the pcv turbo inlet and rerouted the pcv to the back of my car venting it to the atmosphere using cheap 19mm silicone hose .
cost: 10 euros + 30 minutes work.
Cool, Bro. Perfect video end performance. I am sorry my England 😊
Question: That drain plug seems a bit tight and/or hard to get to. Would I have to take out the tank each time to empty it, or how would that be emptied out. I have a Mk7 GTI and want to add this same catch can, but am wondering about your experience emptying it out.
As Always Great Video, Thank you.
Thanks for posting HM. Stay safe and healthy. ✌
You too brother!
I installed the Black Forest catch can on my MK7 GTI about a year ago and the catch can is always dry. Not even moisture accumulates. Have you ever come across on something like this? Is the catch can even doing anything? Thank you and as always I enjoy your videos. Keep it up.
Hey Charles, How is the catch can after two years of installation? How are the intake valves now withouy the oil recirculating through them? Your videos are the best!
Man, you are da best... keep it going 🙏💪
Really enjoyed this, thinking of doing this as my next upgrade
Great content as always, Charles! Do you happen to have links you can post for the PCV gasket and engine mount bolt you recommend replacing?
I ended up going with the Racingline turbo inlet pipe. My IE one didn't fit that well in the turbo. It always seemed loose and I felt like it was sucking air from around the fitting... The Racingline one fit perfect and tight.
Engine and transmission mounts next 🔥🔥🔥
15:36 Reusing the front engine mount bolt until you have to take it off "next time" eh?
Upgraded Engine mounts video confirmed???
:)
To remove the coil packs you can just use a couple of zip ties looped up. One on either side of the coil pack and you can just lift them up. Super simple, super cheap and no need for a specialty tool.
I kinda like the new reservoir relocation since is not plastic and it’s going to last longer plus it looks neat that way
I Was salty about it at first, but I really grown to like it
any reason why you went with the this catch can over the i.e. catch can? thanks, love the videos!
I ran a catch can for about 35k-40k miles on a mk6 gti. I went and got a valve cleaning done at around 50k. From what i saw in person from what pictures ive seen online, i didn't see the catch can make much of a difference. Just my experience with using a catch can. Might be different for others but i wouldn't consider buying a catch can from that point on.
that's because a lot of the oil mist blowby sticks to the hot valves and intake areas right away and never makes it to the catch can, btw the EU spec'd EA888.3 also has low pressure port injection so don't have carbon buildup issues at all
I’d love a mechanic like you teach me!!
Well that sux. I just moved to Germany and it gets pretty cold out here during the winter season. Was gonna order this this week but gonna have to wait till we get back in the states.
AN fittings (Also called JIC, 37 degree flare, etc) is an SAE J514 standard, so if you want to use AN fittings you're going to have to live with imperial dimensions. There are metric flare fitting standards but are far less common.
but I don't have to like it. LOL
As always, super thorough and informative. Thanks Charles!
Couple things... why not reuse the spring clips off the old N80? You cut that N80 hose a bit short. 15:00 That's an aircon hose, not a coolant line. It's also worth clarifying that you're not getting rid of the washer bottle, just reducing it's capacity by removing the secondary bottle. The lower bottle remains.
Awesome video Charles! Thinking of getting the Racingline catch can for my GTI as well
Amazing. Simply Amazing! Thank you for your work sir.
Hey Charles, instead of taping the wrench you could have used a microfiber towel to protect the fitting.
Yep that works great too. Just something to keep the fancy AN fittings nice. Hha
Great video! Did you monitor the working of the catch can?
Hi sir. Can u teach me where and how to install an oil catch can for EA211 1.4tsi?
I think a better system would be the Mann Hummel Provent series. It uses a oil separater. It is mostly used on heavy equipment but, it can also be used on cars. They want you to return it to the sump, but if you could have it collect in a can that would be better.
Hey man great video as always, removing the bolt every time def sucks but it looks really good...I have a question un related.. I have my mk4 GTI and swapped from 5 to 6 speed also from dmf to smf.. It shifts fine if not running.. When started it wont go into any gears.. I was wondering if there is anything else to add during this swap or is it most likely air in the line..??? Any insight I appreciate..Thank you ...Love your videos
Charles great vid as usual, isnt more of the oil separation done in the can portion, the baffle plate is just to keep surging out or am i not following the design? Be well my friend!
Totally agree on the fasteners. I barely have any SAE tools. always have european cars so I have everything in metric
I was baffled by the baffle too.
I have a 1.4 Jetta and with 20k miles the valves were caked in carbon, I followed your video on how to clean them. Now on my EA211 I have to oil catch cans, one from the PCV to the turbo and a second for the oil separator under my intake. Idk if you my have one
I maybe a bit late, but if you empty your catch can in COLD temps, and that means every time you drive and you stop. it sucks, but its better than taking it off or on!
BFI ( Black Forest Industries ), have threaded the bottom of the catch can so you can install a valve before you install the catch can, a valve with a tube attached to it, open it, empty it! volla!
Great content Charles, you make working on my own Golf R a breeze! Have you had to empty or found much in your catch can since installed?
Haven’t emptied it yet. But I really need to check it.
Did you check it yet?
i am looking at catch cans for my new Tiguan....everyrhing looks pretty similar engine bay wise so I am hoping the MQB 2.0 kits fit
My guess is, it will fit. But I have not installed it so I can't say 100%
I have the BFI catch can, only catches oil during track days. Looking at upgrading to a catch can similar to this, going with the Spulen brand.
How is possible carbon build up in golf r if there should be a dual injection system...direct and the mpi ..so the second one should clean valves when its work.....great canal...best regards from europa
Just fitted a catch can on my VR6 4motion!
NICE!
It looks great
Now do some 1k miles then show us the wall of the outlet hose to see if any oil gets past the catch can :)
I didn’t see the new pcv valve 🤷♂️ how does the top part replaces the pcv?!
Charles, will you do a video on apr or replacement coil packs please, looking at upgrading mine on a Mk7 R
I have one on my MK7.5 GTI, they should be factory equipment they collect so much fluid. It's incredible how much crap goes back into the intake. I have a Spulen system on mine though.
I haven’t checked mine in a while. But last time it was empty.
@@HumbleMechanic every 1500-2000 miles I drain mine. Usually +/- 8oz
Great video.Very detailed and informative video so that this can be done by someone who does not have so much knowledge.
Please for information on the exact torque screwing of the bolts on the valve cover after replacing the gasket on passat B5.5 1,9TDi, 74 KW,2003 year, AVB PD motor.Thanks dude.
Thank you
How about making a video about the INVIDIA Catback.. That will be SUPER!
SAE tooling for that banjo bolt because they are still an imperial thread, and you will never be able to change that, as it is a 1/4 inch pipe fitting. Just remember your caliper bolts, brake fitting threads and all hydraulic fittings are a metric equivalent fitting, because the old stuff was changed to nearest size.
2.5 and 4mm hex keys, very common in industrial machinery, though I will tell you that, if they do get seized fast, the easiest way to get them out is to have a few of those ultra cheap 30 piece 1/4in hex driver sets, and look for the Torx bit that will just not fit in, and tap it into the damaged hex head, so you can turn it out. Will get it out, and if you do not have a replacement capscrew, you can put it back in again with it, and wriggle it with a pair of pliers to get the bit out, making it into a Torx head.
Done that very often, because you might need that machine to run right there and then, and driving to get a new one, adding an extra hour of breakdown time, is often not an option. Make a note to keep that size as spare parts, for the next visit. I go through a lot of those size, M4 and M5, as they are a common thread, and you find often the stainless steel will gall fast to the aluminium parts if you do not use a thread sealer on them, especially if they get hot. I also have the thread repair kits for those sizes in various lengths, and the extractors for the broken screws, though you really burn through cobalt drill bits doing that, especially for the 8.8 high strength variant, and the left hand thread version drill bits are stupid expensive, even in plain HSS.
Ridgid do make a really nice extractor set, but sadly the lifetime warranty does not apply by me, so I have had to buy some replacement sets along the way, because I always break the smaller sizes.
👌 AS Always another great video....I’m curious to see if this really works I’ve read quite a few reviews about catch cans....
Question Charles..... why would you need the special AN wrenches when you solved the problem of not having them so simply and cheaply??? Just wondering. I agree with the non metric bolt on a metric bolt using car.... but I'm picky like that as well. Lol
Charles is Bob Ross with his hair on his face and a VW as his canvas
YASSSS
I watched the video.... I'm not sure of the washer relocation,....i really don't like the tiny black bottle. But I was thinking about a "modified" washer bottle in front of the engine, by the fans. Like have a plastics company measure, injection mold plastic to form a redesigned washer bottle.... just my 2 cents idea lol. I like the catch can idea. I want that in my sub. Soon.
Hi! I have some questions about the design of the Oil Catch Can that you use. The hole at the bottom left (when you see the inner side of the original PCV) is actually linked to the crankcase, and the hole at the right side of it is linked to the position behind the throttle to generate negative pressure. So, based on the design of the Oil Catch Can, since they do not have a hole on it, it seems that the pressure in the crankcase is not easy to go out.
the 42 Draft Designs ultimate catch can has a nice metal mesh that is porous and cleanable, it's what i have, and it works well, but not cheap
42DD makes some amazing goodies
VAG/VW use 18 mm metric bolt. It is typical for example in EU.
Is it possible to show us where the WWF reservoir is now, and how it's bolted on? Thanks!
You'll make a great engineerring videos👍🏻👍🏻
Why didn't you use a universal adjustable metric wrench on that standard bolt??
How do you drain the can once it's full? Do you have to remove the whole thing and pour out the liquid? Or undo the bottom drain screw which hopefully is accessible from below? Might need to install a petcock valve on that can?
Post some more vids of the vw r32 and the haldex system that tends to leak alot mines started leaking after I just serviced it I didnt over fill I'm thinking it's the breather hose seems to be coming from the top of the haldex...any advice ?? Anyways keep up the good work bud
Hang tight, we have another R32 project coming. :)
Naturally aspirated master race :)
Is that product somewhat half-assed, you have to remove engine mount bolt to remove the can / even remove it when you install it. There is thread on the mount bolt already why not use that
Hello, you can do that to a B5.5 Passat 2.8? PCV system is a pain in the ass
So what do you do for crank case pressure?! You should really tell people that drive with spirit that these closed loop systems create pressure. I installed this on my Audi TT and kept blowing out main seal. Took it off and made my custom setup so I can catch blow by and still release the crankcase pressure. No problems.
Charles. Did you notice your fuel trims change after going from OEM PCV to VWR CC?
The banjo fitting is SAE because they are trying to use up stock made in 1950. It's 2021, nobody uses banjo fittings now. :p