@@SHdrummerguy08 thats y you use the new oil to lube it first. If you prefill the filter you almost always get it on the gasket anyways. If you dont know, now you do. You are welcome
I think my favorite thing about these narrations is they don’t feel like I am being talked at. It feels like I’m hanging out with a homie who is teaching clueless me the basics ✌️
Zach is an extremely effective and charismatic teacher. I was just commenting about this same thing on another video yesterday. He knows how to convey some pretty complex information without sounding superior or condescending which is surprisingly hard for a lot of people.
Totally, only we’d usually be talking WAY faster and there’d be a ‘special’ drawer in the toolbox that holds a substance that generates a plethora of ideas… some good, some bad, but zero that actually happen
You might consider swapping out the PVC valve for one that is from a boosted vehicle. Ones from NA vehicles are usually pretty trash at preventing the boost from leaking back into your crank case. Even better would be to replace the fitting on the valve cover with an AN fitting and then replace the valve with a AN check valve and a metering orifice at the intake side. That way you NEVER leak boost into the crank case and you can set exactly the amount of air can pass while under vacum; you'll get better idle performance and won'y be chasing boost control issues.
This guy produces some really useful and entertaining content. I love how he doesn't try to make himself look like some sort of perfect genius who never makes mistakes.
It's literally because of Jobe that I bought my first ratchet set and I'm starting to learn how to work on my own car. I have a few aftermarket parts that I'm going to try installing for the first time ever
@@reedman0780 did pretty well! my first project was to replace the stock heat exchanger and setup my JB4 tune in my q60. Took me about 6 hours I think to swap out the heat exchanger and about 30 minutes to install the JB4 tune. I've been running it for a few months and I love it! It was a lot of fun for a first project
Killer bro! Welcome to the party! My advice: You never know what you don’t know. Never be afraid to ask questions. Some dudes can be dicks (esp on BMW forums where I lurk daily), but just shake it off and do you!
You may not need it much in SoCal or other arid locales but most of the rest of the world makes regular use of windshield washers. For PCV oil management there's also the option of using a small oil vapor separator and plumbing its output into the oil pan. This removes oil from the PCV system and delivers it directly to the oil pan where it's removed at the next oil change which means there's no need to install and check/drain a catch can on a regular basis.
“Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?” Yes. When you’re out of oil. Edit: 3 years later and just found out this comment has almost 4k likes. Weird.
FYI, If your using push lock fittings, and those lines will see boost pressure, you may need to run a clamp. The only fittings you don't need to run a clamp on would be the official Russell Twist-Lok fittings. The difference is they have 3 barbs, instead of 2 barbs on the fitting. I figured this out the hard way on some oil lines a few months ago. It worked for a few weeks then popped off. Just wanted to give my 2 cents.
There are literally 3 zip ties holding my air filter cover on. It looks like it shouldn't work at all (looks loose until you feel it) but it's solid so it stays. Was supposed to be a temporary fix just to hold the cover on until I could fix the whole airbox
You guys should have explained how the catch can itself works, like what goes on inside them. The biggest thing you see with cheap catch cans (and even some expensive ones) is that they don't have baffling in them, so they are just empty space. Those don't do a whole lot. You want to have ones that are baffled so they can slow down the oil and fuel vapor that's going through them, and add surface area to help cool down the vapor so they condensate back into liquid. Empty catch cans don't work nearly as well as baffled ones. And typically you can simply put in some metal wool pads inside empty cans to help them work better. You can use steel wool, but I'd recommend purchasing aluminum or brass wool (which are fairly cheap) and those will work much better as they have a much higher thermal conductivity than steel wool does, including stainless steel. Higher thermal conductivity means it'll transfer heat much better and will cool things down faster. That's why radiators and intercoolers are made from aluminum instead of steel.
I know this is an older video, but honestly, it's helpful. Sometimes we just install stuff for little to no reason. Plus, routing options and things to consider is nice. I appreciate the video. Cheers!
Those Radium units are pretty nice quality. If you're setup with a tig machine, a great way to build one is out of an old reciever dryer. If you don't run an a/c anymore, you can even use the stock location that it resides in, for most instances. Grab yourself a few fittings, some hose, and clamps and you're in business. I've built a few of these with old reciever dryer canisters. You can find them for free in most cases and they come in many different sizes. Just a tip I've used in my years turning wrenches/ fabbing up stuff on a budget. You can throw some paint on one and make it look 'store bought' if you're concerned about the look of it even. I prefer the wrinkle black paint that VHT sells. 😎
As an Ohioan I tend to go all summer with my “low washer fluid” light on. Then when winter hits and salts on the road, you can’t do without it. That salt will absolutely blind you.
@@tommycarrizal1656 I live in arizona and I use my fluid a lot just due to dust buildup from parking for more than a day. Especially yesterday when it rained I had a ton of water spots on my windshield. Sad uncovered parking noises.
Honestly Donut Media makes the best ads. I make sure I watch them all the way through cause bro, the quality, humour, and all the quirks ad to the fun of the video imo.
Thank you thank you thank you I've been forgetting to pour mine out for weeks now but I forget when the engine is cold and only remember when it's to hot to touch. I've never let it get that bad and got really close to a completely full can. Haha keep up the great work guys. Love you
YAAAAAY. Robert at Road Race Engineering told me the other day that oil catch cans are the first thing you should do (followed by an upgraded oil cooler) to any car with boost. Glad got it!
Converting it to a meth kit is a great idea. I've done it a couple times. See my suggestion about converting an old reciever dryer to a homemade catch can setup above... Theres almost always a way to repurpose something unnecessary into something useful if you're into fab work. I love that kind of creative stuff. Back in the day when you wanted custom parts for a lot of applications you built your own, before the days of countless tuners/ vendors and the interwebz.😎
@@ChrisPBacon9 they've got a new built-for-miatas aluminum one that's quite a bit bigger and has a sump in the bottom where the pump mounts so it doesn't dry-starve the pump
I see so many things on this car that would not be possible if they lived up in the Northeast. I regularly go through gallons of windshield washer fluid a year, and absolutely need center vents for heat & A/C, etc. That said, the Miata is coming along nicely. I'm glad they put off Turboing it for a good long while and focused on other upgrades, especially after what happened during High/Low.
I feel weird that they used worm-drive clamps on a temperature-cycling application. Need to look into gates power grip clamps. They look sick and work best. Otherwise, get the spring clamps. They can be a pain to install, but they won't leak on you. That's why most OEMs use them.
@@IkaraPentiki Hose clamp elitism?? How can a worm clamp be that bad, i mean come on, it has one single job. I *have* had spring clamps leak because they don't provide enough clamping force to stop hose movement, and gates power grips are one time use. One single-use 2" power grip is literally 6$, when I can get a stainless steel worm clamp for like 2 bucks that can be reused countless times. I'll stick with a normal worm clamp, even on my temperature cycling engine lol. Edit: Just wanted to say that they are in southern california, so the temperature swings there are so minimal that they're pointless to even think about. Gates power grips are meant for big rigs that see frigid temperatures. Also, worm clamps can be installed without even removing the hose from its barb, particularly useful when replacing a leaky spring clamp on a coolant hose.... Edit2: Tbolt clamps are better than worm clamps, and I use them for highly important things like radiator hoses and such. Even so, they use the same concept as the worm, in general.
@@jonathonhebert7042 A lot to unpack here. A worm clamp is terrible because as the engine bay (and indeed the fitting) temp goes up, the hose expands. However, worm clamps do not. If a spring clamp is leaking because of not enough tension, it can always be easily replaced with a worm clamp as a stop-gap, though either the hose is likely hard (meaning it's not clamping the fitting, but the hardened hose) or the clamp was insufficient in the first place, or incorrectly installed (and thus damaged). Gates power grips are one time use, and a little shopping, depending on size, can get them pretty cheap. However, they also have no footprint on the connection (or basically none) preventing cuts, snags, or other mechanical obstruction that even spring clamps cause to some degree. They are also going to provide a seal even in some cases where the hose end has failed due to hardeneing as they seal up and around the fitting. Regardless of where they live, temperature in the engine bay swings from air temp at full cool (even in southern california, this is maybe 105 at the most, right? maybe 110?) to over perhaps 240, or higher, depending on the engine's thermostat, cooling fan switch, evaporator temp switch, and the heat being flushed into the engine bay by the exposed exhaust components. Do a rip down a drag strip with and then see what the air temp in the engine bay is. Or pull a lap at the track and check it at the pit. Gates power grips are not just for big rigs with huge temp swings. Motorcycle manufacturers have a tendency to use crap parts, and my Suzuki v-strom was replete with worm-drive clamps from the factory. When i flushed the coolant system and replaced the worn hoses, i replaced all the clamps with power grips. I didn't have any trouble finding the small sizes i needed in order to accomplish this, and they have been flawless in the 3 years since. T-bolt clamps _are_ better than worm drives, in large part due to their smooth surface and lack of un-even extrusion and generally concentric contact pattern so long as the right size is used. Sprung T-bolt clamps would rate just above power-grips in my mind, as having the ease of installation of worm-drive clamps, and the automatic tensioning of spring clamps. However. T-bolt clamps of both stripes are nearly as, if not in some cases more expensive (depending on size and supplier) than power-grip clamps. They do get a point for re-usability though. There are similar pros and cons to using compression fittings, which are infinitely re-usable but have obvious cost concerns (as the fittings have to be replaced and the hoses have to be matched perfectly). But... yes, hose clamp elitism if you want to call it that, though i'd say that it's not elitism to suggest that "the way it's always been done around here" might not be the best way to do it.
All u got the dip stick model, i found a dormqn blk 1 off the rack, its decent, i used to make these from scratch, monster catch can, u know. Here is a pro tip, get course steelwhool and put it in the can to keep the oil crom sloching around, you can still empty and use exactly the same ways, ur wel come.
I've got the same cans - 1. use blue threadlock on those allen mounting bolts otherwise they'll rattle off! 2. be prepared for the dipsticks to break inside the can, I've had it happen like 4 times
Thank you. This video made me want to do a Draw-Through Turbo setup, with a crankcase vent between the carburetor and compressor. On my 4stroke motorcycles. Negative crankcase pressure, so there is no air in the way, of the back of the pistons. I understand. A vacuum behind the pistons, should increase power. And no catch can to worry about. This is great information, thank you.
I have oil leaks but the real problem is i don’t have the time to fix it. I need to change my oil pan gasket and i’m not going to pay a show to do something that i can do myself.
@@cablenowadays6586 I hear ya there. My truck leaks around the oil pan but I got to get it running right. 1998 f150 4.6l engine shudder under load and EGR flow is too high. Been a pain in my ass for for awhile now
@Lassi Kinnunen 81 capillary action will continue to pull oil past the gasket, not as aggressively as excessive crankcase pressure, but it will leak until things get resealed.
@@daniellawson5127 I was going to ask this, since all this oil has been forced past the valve cover gasket and everything else, do they not need replacing and resealing? I'd appreciate any answer, I'm still learning about cars!
@@ethansheppard9664 yes, they’ll need replacing. O-rings, if not torn, might be reusable as well as seals, again if not damaged. But from the video shots, pressure was, well, extreme. Gaskets on the other hand, most have a paper construction, and will forever leak. Anyway, a thorough inspection and cleaning is in order and while there, I wouldn’t take any chances and replace everything that leaked.
Did he also explain the reason for the dual catch can set up? Basically, one catch can is connected to the low pressure side when you're not going hard in the paint, and the other is connected to the high pressure side when you are. Usually when people do a single setup, they attach it to the high pressure side, but honestly most of us are not WOT 24/7 so dual setup is super beneficial.
Doubling the power, pretty sure you'll need to tap the valve cover with more ventilation ports since it was probably never intended to handle the pressure from a turbo application. I suppose you'll know after a few hard runs, but wouldn't hurt to be a little overkill.
You absolutely do not need to do that, ever. Boost works both ways, higher crank case pressure but also a better vacuum as long as your PCV system is installed properly.
I'd like to think Jobe said "it's still Wednesday my dudes" in this video because for the past month of money pit episodes I've been saying it in the comments 🥺
Thanks for mentioning the reason the DI engine valves getting contaminated. For some reason I never caught the reason being from the PCV system. In all the videos I have ever seen, they never mentioned that, only that the valves don't get cleared by the fuel.
"Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?" Oh, it stops alright. Just not in the way you want it to. Oil won't leak if there's no oil TO leak...
I was hoping they would go over the differences in using a vented catch can and a non vented. I'm trying to decide myself but I've heard it can pull in unregistered air and cause strange issues
Thanks for doing it right and installing two cans. Most people don't seem to understand that the PCV system flows in both directions and they'll only install one can.
I don't know how many people caught the clever edit with the music playing and when Jeremiah Tapped the metal while drilling so it synched with the tempo of the music... Very clever!
Thanks to Manscaped for sponsoring today's video. Get Whacking! 20% OFF + Free Shipping @Manscaped at manscaped.com/donut
hi
Are you going paint or wrap the Miata?
Please please pleeeeaaaase tell me Nolan's old classic project car is gonna be the next Money Pit
Hi Zach
@@masterhybrid16 why would kids watch this type of a video tho?
“Once an oil leak starts does it ever really stop.” Speak truth brother.
There is a russian saying I heard, if it leaks, then it is still there.
@@realdealnews9710 bro my e60 leaks from absolutely everywhere
I got lucky. My leak was from the last oil filter's gasket sticking and preventing a seal from the new filter.
@@SHdrummerguy08 thats y you use the new oil to lube it first. If you prefill the filter you almost always get it on the gasket anyways. If you dont know, now you do. You are welcome
@@racistrobinhood yeah, I do this. Just got unlucky the one time
I think my favorite thing about these narrations is they don’t feel like I am being talked at. It feels like I’m hanging out with a homie who is teaching clueless me the basics ✌️
Well said. I agree completely. I knew nothing coming in. Now I know a little more.
Exactly I hate that rehearsed feeling. POWERNATION I’m looking at you.
Zach is an extremely effective and charismatic teacher. I was just commenting about this same thing on another video yesterday. He knows how to convey some pretty complex information without sounding superior or condescending which is surprisingly hard for a lot of people.
I totally agree!
Totally, only we’d usually be talking WAY faster and there’d be a ‘special’ drawer in the toolbox that holds a substance that generates a plethora of ideas… some good, some bad, but zero that actually happen
Just paint it black. everyone knows painting an engine black fixes all oil leaks.
If you wait long enough there's no need to paint it, it just turn black on it self
Exept for diesel engines, bleed the injector pipes one time and the paint is full of streaks.
Have oil dripping on your oil pan? PAINT IT BLACK
Have oil on your lower control arms? PAINT IT BLACK
I paint all my engines White
@@TrojanLube69 did it by chance make it larger as well?
You might consider swapping out the PVC valve for one that is from a boosted vehicle. Ones from NA vehicles are usually pretty trash at preventing the boost from leaking back into your crank case. Even better would be to replace the fitting on the valve cover with an AN fitting and then replace the valve with a AN check valve and a metering orifice at the intake side. That way you NEVER leak boost into the crank case and you can set exactly the amount of air can pass while under vacum; you'll get better idle performance and won'y be chasing boost control issues.
This guy produces some really useful and entertaining content. I love how he doesn't try to make himself look like some sort of perfect genius who never makes mistakes.
Or some desperate TH-cam content creator.
13:32 There is nothing more permanent than a temporary solution
...Isn't that EXACTLY how he got in this situation in the first place?!
LoL
A temp solution that works well...
After he has done everything he wants to do to the Miata we should get a series on his Silvia
Hell yea!🔥🔥🔥
I would love that
You mean 240
Should bring in Nolan's imperial
Nah LS swap
When are we going to get a full version of “Pop Up Up and Down Headlights” with a feat. from Post Malone?
I thought they were gunnin for YBN
@@ottodob why not get both
They put the full song in like those paid videos the donut underground stuff
YESSSSSSSSSSSSS
FULL VERSION WHEN
It's literally because of Jobe that I bought my first ratchet set and I'm starting to learn how to work on my own car. I have a few aftermarket parts that I'm going to try installing for the first time ever
Hell yeah dude! Nothing like the satisfaction and money saved by doing something yourself.
Update?
@@reedman0780 did pretty well! my first project was to replace the stock heat exchanger and setup my JB4 tune in my q60. Took me about 6 hours I think to swap out the heat exchanger and about 30 minutes to install the JB4 tune. I've been running it for a few months and I love it! It was a lot of fun for a first project
Killer bro! Welcome to the party!
My advice: You never know what you don’t know. Never be afraid to ask questions. Some dudes can be dicks (esp on BMW forums where I lurk daily), but just shake it off and do you!
@@Gameoflegendstvsecondary advice… fuk it. It’s yours so have fun.
You may not need it much in SoCal or other arid locales but most of the rest of the world makes regular use of windshield washers.
For PCV oil management there's also the option of using a small oil vapor separator and plumbing its output into the oil pan. This removes oil from the PCV system and delivers it directly to the oil pan where it's removed at the next oil change which means there's no need to install and check/drain a catch can on a regular basis.
“Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?”
Yes. When you’re out of oil.
Edit: 3 years later and just found out this comment has almost 4k likes. Weird.
Somehow the oil just keeps leaking
If it isn't leaking and you haven't replaced the seal, panic
Lol no engine is really out of oil. Let it drain for a 24 hours, put the plug back in, come back the next day and more oil will drain out...
@@ritawant988 Saibot
@F**ĆK МЕ - RITA ! Noob Saibot
I think we’re close to getting a ‘is LS swapping ur car worth it ‘ recommended to our TH-cam feed 💀
up next: are tires *really* worth it?
@@B0F didn't they already do this
Tbh an LS would be better. The stock Miata engine leaks oil and doesn’t make as much hp as an LS.
@@angelgjr1999 ahh tbh we just have to wait till the engine breaks or is just not as good as the rest of the car cause it’s bound to happen
@@angelgjr1999 you realize LS leak just as much right? sounds like you haven't owned one not trying to be rude
Dude this honestly one of donut media’s best shows I love money pit!!!
FYI, If your using push lock fittings, and those lines will see boost pressure, you may need to run a clamp. The only fittings you don't need to run a clamp on would be the official Russell Twist-Lok fittings. The difference is they have 3 barbs, instead of 2 barbs on the fitting. I figured this out the hard way on some oil lines a few months ago. It worked for a few weeks then popped off. Just wanted to give my 2 cents.
"Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?" Needs to go on a t-shirt ASAP
You people think everything should be on a a shirt
@@sw11593 I was going to say the same damn thing 😂 literally every sentence he says people think it needs to be on a shirt.
@@petercorrea7645 can we get that on a shirt?
@@TheCarpenterUnion Sure I'll have one made and sent your way.
13:30 every car guy ever has said those word " this is just temporary"
Temporary fixes never are, but also permanent fixes never are.
Temporary fixes really do last the longest
There are literally 3 zip ties holding my air filter cover on. It looks like it shouldn't work at all (looks loose until you feel it) but it's solid so it stays. Was supposed to be a temporary fix just to hold the cover on until I could fix the whole airbox
0:43 This made my Wednesday, my dudes
You guys should have explained how the catch can itself works, like what goes on inside them. The biggest thing you see with cheap catch cans (and even some expensive ones) is that they don't have baffling in them, so they are just empty space. Those don't do a whole lot. You want to have ones that are baffled so they can slow down the oil and fuel vapor that's going through them, and add surface area to help cool down the vapor so they condensate back into liquid. Empty catch cans don't work nearly as well as baffled ones. And typically you can simply put in some metal wool pads inside empty cans to help them work better. You can use steel wool, but I'd recommend purchasing aluminum or brass wool (which are fairly cheap) and those will work much better as they have a much higher thermal conductivity than steel wool does, including stainless steel. Higher thermal conductivity means it'll transfer heat much better and will cool things down faster. That's why radiators and intercoolers are made from aluminum instead of steel.
Very insightful sir.
do u think a catch can would be useful on my 2.7 silverado 1500 ?
I know this is an older video, but honestly, it's helpful. Sometimes we just install stuff for little to no reason. Plus, routing options and things to consider is nice.
I appreciate the video.
Cheers!
Those Radium units are pretty nice quality. If you're setup with a tig machine, a great way to build one is out of an old reciever dryer. If you don't run an a/c anymore, you can even use the stock location that it resides in, for most instances. Grab yourself a few fittings, some hose, and clamps and you're in business. I've built a few of these with old reciever dryer canisters. You can find them for free in most cases and they come in many different sizes. Just a tip I've used in my years turning wrenches/ fabbing up stuff on a budget. You can throw some paint on one and make it look 'store bought' if you're concerned about the look of it even. I prefer the wrinkle black paint that VHT sells. 😎
"I never use the windshield washers"
-A Californian
Or Arizonans
As a Californian, you underestimate the dust. Lol.
Was gonna say, as a Nevada resident do not underestimate dust storms lol
As an Ohioan I tend to go all summer with my “low washer fluid” light on. Then when winter hits and salts on the road, you can’t do without it. That salt will absolutely blind you.
@@tommycarrizal1656 I live in arizona and I use my fluid a lot just due to dust buildup from parking for more than a day. Especially yesterday when it rained I had a ton of water spots on my windshield. Sad uncovered parking noises.
ITS WEDNESDAY MY DUDES
aaaaaaAAAAHHHHHH
they FINALLY made the joke
Conspiracy Theory: Zach really made the engine leak so Donut could have more content, and more content means MORE MONEY BABEH!
Or he’s not as a good of a mechanic as he claims to be
@@manywayz2be extra
T H I C C
Tink
@@justinranes3351 It's natural for a modified car to have problems
And more moneh babeh means more parts bebeh
AND MORE PARTS BEBEH MEANS...
*A MO POWAH BEBEH!!!*
I was just asking my brother “what a catch can was for?” And this was literally everything i was wondering. Awesome as always! Love these guys!
I mentioned in the last video to get a catch can. It saved my engine from hydro lock by Catching most of the water. Also duh catches oil sludge.
Honestly Donut Media makes the best ads. I make sure I watch them all the way through cause bro, the quality, humour, and all the quirks ad to the fun of the video imo.
“I want this miata for daily”.....removes AC and window washing fluid
I'm guessing you've never been to southern California?
My daily hasn't had windshield washer for 12 years now.
Yeah i know these things arent really necesary, but i an just used to it using it 😂
Do y’all not get bugs?
Drive fast, they won't stick
Nobody:
Money Pit miata: IM ALMOST DONE SO Ill start to leak
it wants to be in more episodes, its an attention hog
@@omega1575 fixed miata = sad miata
Nobody:
Nobody:
@F**СК МЕ - СНЕСK МY РR0FILЕ pls STOP SPAMMING
@@iwantsexseemyvideo1694 STOP SPAMMING
I've been working on cars for 20 years and I still learn things from Zach. I love this show.
11:03 It never occurred to me how intense the mechanical forces were on a rivet. You can see oil burning after he squeeze's the rivet!
Thank you thank you thank you I've been forgetting to pour mine out for weeks now but I forget when the engine is cold and only remember when it's to hot to touch. I've never let it get that bad and got really close to a completely full can. Haha keep up the great work guys. Love you
I need to know where Donut gets their funky music. I need that playlist.
Epidemicsound I think
Same ! I fucking love those funky music, it's incredible
It's paid stock music. Epidemicsound is one but you can find good things even on CC, if you're cheap.
Zach Jobe has been killing it as a donut presenter during the pandemic 🥳
HE FINALLY DID IT.
ITS WEDNESDAY MY DUDES
YAAAAAY. Robert at Road Race Engineering told me the other day that oil catch cans are the first thing you should do (followed by an upgraded oil cooler) to any car with boost. Glad got it!
Even after Binge watching the series since it came out, I find myself coming back to actually learn about products or the modification. Thanks Donut!
That boi Zach got hose! Can't ever go wrong with having more than enough hose, I can't believe youtube let you show you lubing hose up. 2021 is crazy!
It's a good day. I got the inauguration in one tab, and a Donut video in the other.
I would hope that they would relocate the washer fluid system to the trunk, or turn that into a cheap water/methanol injection system.
There's a windshield washer relocation kit from FM that uses the bottle out of a suzuki cappuccino. Wonder why he didnt get one 🤔
Converting it to a meth kit is a great idea. I've done it a couple times. See my suggestion about converting an old reciever dryer to a homemade catch can setup above... Theres almost always a way to repurpose something unnecessary into something useful if you're into fab work. I love that kind of creative stuff. Back in the day when you wanted custom parts for a lot of applications you built your own, before the days of countless tuners/ vendors and the interwebz.😎
@@ChrisPBacon9 they've got a new built-for-miatas aluminum one that's quite a bit bigger and has a sump in the bottom where the pump mounts so it doesn't dry-starve the pump
@@ergopropterhoc yeah ive seen a few different vendors offering one. The DaveFab unit looks pretty legit, i might get that one for myself actually
This was eaaasy the best ''Oil catch can'' and '''PCV'' explenation/example video out there! Thank you for the positive and easy vibe
I see so many things on this car that would not be possible if they lived up in the Northeast. I regularly go through gallons of windshield washer fluid a year, and absolutely need center vents for heat & A/C, etc.
That said, the Miata is coming along nicely. I'm glad they put off Turboing it for a good long while and focused on other upgrades, especially after what happened during High/Low.
Am I the only one that feels weird seeing hose clamps used for their intended purpose
even weirded the bots out
I feel weird that they used worm-drive clamps on a temperature-cycling application. Need to look into gates power grip clamps. They look sick and work best. Otherwise, get the spring clamps. They can be a pain to install, but they won't leak on you. That's why most OEMs use them.
@@IkaraPentiki Hose clamp elitism?? How can a worm clamp be that bad, i mean come on, it has one single job. I *have* had spring clamps leak because they don't provide enough clamping force to stop hose movement, and gates power grips are one time use. One single-use 2" power grip is literally 6$, when I can get a stainless steel worm clamp for like 2 bucks that can be reused countless times. I'll stick with a normal worm clamp, even on my temperature cycling engine lol.
Edit: Just wanted to say that they are in southern california, so the temperature swings there are so minimal that they're pointless to even think about. Gates power grips are meant for big rigs that see frigid temperatures. Also, worm clamps can be installed without even removing the hose from its barb, particularly useful when replacing a leaky spring clamp on a coolant hose....
Edit2: Tbolt clamps are better than worm clamps, and I use them for highly important things like radiator hoses and such. Even so, they use the same concept as the worm, in general.
@@jonathonhebert7042
A lot to unpack here.
A worm clamp is terrible because as the engine bay (and indeed the fitting) temp goes up, the hose expands. However, worm clamps do not.
If a spring clamp is leaking because of not enough tension, it can always be easily replaced with a worm clamp as a stop-gap, though either the hose is likely hard (meaning it's not clamping the fitting, but the hardened hose) or the clamp was insufficient in the first place, or incorrectly installed (and thus damaged).
Gates power grips are one time use, and a little shopping, depending on size, can get them pretty cheap. However, they also have no footprint on the connection (or basically none) preventing cuts, snags, or other mechanical obstruction that even spring clamps cause to some degree. They are also going to provide a seal even in some cases where the hose end has failed due to hardeneing as they seal up and around the fitting.
Regardless of where they live, temperature in the engine bay swings from air temp at full cool (even in southern california, this is maybe 105 at the most, right? maybe 110?) to over perhaps 240, or higher, depending on the engine's thermostat, cooling fan switch, evaporator temp switch, and the heat being flushed into the engine bay by the exposed exhaust components. Do a rip down a drag strip with and then see what the air temp in the engine bay is. Or pull a lap at the track and check it at the pit.
Gates power grips are not just for big rigs with huge temp swings. Motorcycle manufacturers have a tendency to use crap parts, and my Suzuki v-strom was replete with worm-drive clamps from the factory. When i flushed the coolant system and replaced the worn hoses, i replaced all the clamps with power grips. I didn't have any trouble finding the small sizes i needed in order to accomplish this, and they have been flawless in the 3 years since.
T-bolt clamps _are_ better than worm drives, in large part due to their smooth surface and lack of un-even extrusion and generally concentric contact pattern so long as the right size is used.
Sprung T-bolt clamps would rate just above power-grips in my mind, as having the ease of installation of worm-drive clamps, and the automatic tensioning of spring clamps.
However. T-bolt clamps of both stripes are nearly as, if not in some cases more expensive (depending on size and supplier) than power-grip clamps. They do get a point for re-usability though.
There are similar pros and cons to using compression fittings, which are infinitely re-usable but have obvious cost concerns (as the fittings have to be replaced and the hoses have to be matched perfectly).
But... yes, hose clamp elitism if you want to call it that, though i'd say that it's not elitism to suggest that "the way it's always been done around here" might not be the best way to do it.
@@IkaraPentiki damn...just damn 😂(a good one tho)
Next video: "how to pass California emission and inspection"
COBB has a California CARB legal AOS ;)
Was waiting on this comment 🤣
Or, why i shoulda glued my pcv valve in.
Are catch cans illegal on California? You'd think they would be beneficial to the point they're encouraged
@@shaneluthy3041 They are perfectly legal in California but there are other issues here.
Zach and Money Pit is always a great watch haha good work guys!
All u got the dip stick model, i found a dormqn blk 1 off the rack, its decent, i used to make these from scratch, monster catch can, u know. Here is a pro tip, get course steelwhool and put it in the can to keep the oil crom sloching around, you can still empty and use exactly the same ways, ur wel come.
“These Push lock fittings Are really nice” Drops it*
“Well..... it was nice.”
Next episode of money pit: “Is a body kit worth it?”
😂* is 2JZ swapping your Miata worth it?*
Week after that is "is underglow on a miata worth it?"
Tbh it would lock kinda sick if it was a good one
@@mikeevans6926 god I wish
Are new reversing lights worth it?
THIS IS EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW TO GET UP TO SPEED ON ZACK'S MIATA
LIGHTING! LIGHTING! LIGHTNING! And then a super saiyajin scream
10:20 always paint the hole area to avoid rusting.
Good stuff though.
I've got the same cans - 1. use blue threadlock on those allen mounting bolts otherwise they'll rattle off! 2. be prepared for the dipsticks to break inside the can, I've had it happen like 4 times
Thank you. This video made me want to do a Draw-Through Turbo setup, with a crankcase vent between the carburetor and compressor. On my 4stroke motorcycles. Negative crankcase pressure, so there is no air in the way, of the back of the pistons. I understand. A vacuum behind the pistons, should increase power. And no catch can to worry about. This is great information, thank you.
This show is the reason why I'm always waiting for Wednesday
"It ran great" car: still smouldering.
@Tommy Nguyen i just reported the thing.
Past tense lol
I love the way Zach just sits on his block like it’s a lazy boy chair 😂😂
BRO ah the clicking at 13:53 being on time with the beat is *chef's kiss*
"Can we fix it?"
Bob the Builder?
no
Jobe the Mechanic.
I’d love to see a few episodes of money pit on Nolan’s Imperial
5 year vw tech here.. first min was a better explanation than I got in class.
13 year vw tech here....already knew what's up because of the OG 1.8T, and they never explained it in class for me....
Catch Cans FTW!!! Nice use of the clamps to give the hose routing look OEM-ish!
the syncing of the hammer taps with the beat at 10:10 was so tasteful I cracked a smile
"Once an oil leak starts does it ever really stop?" That's a little too accurate
I have oil leaks but the real problem is i don’t have the time to fix it. I need to change my oil pan gasket and i’m not going to pay a show to do something that i can do myself.
@@cablenowadays6586 I hear ya there. My truck leaks around the oil pan but I got to get it running right. 1998 f150 4.6l engine shudder under load and EGR flow is too high. Been a pain in my ass for for awhile now
ჯსბს
Mine did... New seal baby
Hey Zack. When are u doing the engine swap on James' 86
Wow, Deja vu!
soon! got all the parts, just need to do a little maintenance first
Hell yeah! Soon I hope, black looks sweet on a trueno. I also love that he got ahold of a usdm Corolla gts so it's left hand drive.
K swap 24
@@markoz673bajen8 too late for that, 4age 20v blacktop it is!
12:03 “Hopefully I have enough hoes” Amen brother. Amen
Great explanation on crankcase pressure. I recommend clamptite for hose connections for even and tight clamping.
Money Pitt was definitely the best name for this series. I love it.
HE DID THE “ITS WEDNESDAY MY DUDE AHHHHHHH” YES
The more catch can installs I see, the more I realize how genius Volvo's royally convoluted stock PCV A/O separator is.
Lol I know right
Zach: "Once a leak starts, does it ever stops?" Answer: If you run out of oil, yes. Otherwise, you'll need new gaskets, seals and o-rings. Take care.
@Lassi Kinnunen 81 capillary action will continue to pull oil past the gasket, not as aggressively as excessive crankcase pressure, but it will leak until things get resealed.
@@daniellawson5127 I was going to ask this, since all this oil has been forced past the valve cover gasket and everything else, do they not need replacing and resealing? I'd appreciate any answer, I'm still learning about cars!
@@ethansheppard9664 yes, they’ll need replacing. O-rings, if not torn, might be reusable as well as seals, again if not damaged. But from the video shots, pressure was, well, extreme. Gaskets on the other hand, most have a paper construction, and will forever leak. Anyway, a thorough inspection and cleaning is in order and while there, I wouldn’t take any chances and replace everything that leaked.
@@brainiac9579 Thanks!
Clicking
Did he also explain the reason for the dual catch can set up? Basically, one catch can is connected to the low pressure side when you're not going hard in the paint, and the other is connected to the high pressure side when you are. Usually when people do a single setup, they attach it to the high pressure side, but honestly most of us are not WOT 24/7 so dual setup is super beneficial.
I did a similar set up for Kia optima 2.0 turbo. One can though with check valves controlling which hose was the vacuum source
Day 296 of asking James to do an Up to speed on his Dad
40 secs ago damn +support bro
DANG
4 MORE DAYS BABY
My god has it really been that long you've been asking
Day 56 of supporting pagani gaming
"...They can build up alot! I have seen some crazy buildup."
He definitely worked on some FSI's and TSI's at ECS.....
"it's wednesday my dudes" "aaaAAAAAAH"
Instant like.
Loving this Miata series so far !
What i learned after 2 years of this kind of videos is working/modifying cars is basically bro science that follows some guide lines
I like how u integrate sounds from the video into the music. Great series!
Doubling the power, pretty sure you'll need to tap the valve cover with more ventilation ports since it was probably never intended to handle the pressure from a turbo application. I suppose you'll know after a few hard runs, but wouldn't hurt to be a little overkill.
You absolutely do not need to do that, ever. Boost works both ways, higher crank case pressure but also a better vacuum as long as your PCV system is installed properly.
Pretty sure you’re going to wind up replacing all your gaskets 😂 love this show keep it up
"I totally missed it"
"...for real?"
LOL
Yes! It is worth it. I have catch can on my Honda Accord 2015 and the oil life went from okay to go up to almost 7k miles before oil change.
Money Pitt is my fav thing on donut media right now
"Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?"
Truth was spoken today.
Zach: "I don't know if I've got enough hose"
* Mo Bamba starts playing *
I'd like to think Jobe said "it's still Wednesday my dudes" in this video because for the past month of money pit episodes I've been saying it in the comments 🥺
Aaaaaaaaaa!
Searched for videos and this is the only one that truly helped me see how to do this cheers
I dont think we appreaciate this cameraman enough, he is pretty darn skilled
Yay miata Wednesday 🔥💧
I've only been watching this channel a short while, and I don't know if I should feel bad for the Miata or have mad respect for it.
“I’ve seen some crazy build up” yeah he worked on audis and vws
Grossest shit I have seen out of one came from an F-150.
2.4l ecotec with the ass seals 😪
Hats down to whole Donut Media crew,the best automotive content creators in the Universe!
Thanks for mentioning the reason the DI engine valves getting contaminated. For some reason I never caught the reason being from the PCV system. In all the videos I have ever seen, they never mentioned that, only that the valves don't get cleared by the fuel.
"Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?"
Oh, it stops alright. Just not in the way you want it to.
Oil won't leak if there's no oil TO leak...
Residents of Ketchikan, Alaska: "wtf is this guy talking about?"
Ållu mĕd 😂
Brilliant, simply brilliant
-Dildo, Newfoundland
I kept hearing that too
I was hoping they would go over the differences in using a vented catch can and a non vented. I'm trying to decide myself but I've heard it can pull in unregistered air and cause strange issues
my g35 started idling weird when i used the vented method so i just went back to sealed.
15:01 I was watching the video all calm and I was just rolling from laughter when you did that. 😂🤣
Loved the way you explained and fitted the catch cans....
"You know me and my hose." A wise mechanic, 2021.
Day 400 of asking Donut to bring back Science Garage even if Bart is not presenting it 😞
Cmon man don’t try and fake something just start from the beginning
B2B with Jer has morphed Science Garage lately, no?
c Welch he only has 10 comments 😂😂
@@harrisonkelly yea lmao
Day 15 of asking James to do an uptospeed on Top Gear
Damn
Support that
Thanks for doing it right and installing two cans. Most people don't seem to understand that the PCV system flows in both directions and they'll only install one can.
I don't know how many people caught the clever edit with the music playing and when Jeremiah Tapped the metal while drilling so it synched with the tempo of the music... Very clever!