Thank you so much 🙏🙏 Your video is Gold because I always wondered why my fan was always off and this helped me to make it work like it used to be thank you so much ☺️
No problem man, It's definitely the cheapest possible fix route than replacing the fan. Another thing that i would recommend is if you don't have the software to check the temp of the engine, than just buy a IR temp gun at harbor freight for $25 bucks, point at lower block and wait for temp to reach around 95 fahrenheit. That is the temp the fan is supposed to come on when reached. If car is still overheating than it might be time for a new waterpump and themostat, i just did a detailed tutorial on that as well th-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html
Yeah my fans not kicking in at 95 or 96c water pump is fine .done the bleed procedure and worked like your video . Only way to keep my car under 100c is to blast the heating stays at 95c but getting to hot for that now lol. blows hot and cold air so think thermostat fine Fuses are ok too thanks I just use the hidden menu for temp
@@jchalmers28jc18have you checked to make sure there is circulation from the water pump, open the overflow tank cap and see if there is a steady stream coming out of the little hole. Also sometimes the fan control unit is bad, and only partially works.
@@findfixxflip yeah pump is working perfectly constant flow coming out wee pin hole at top . I hear it drawing air from the thermostat area . Just replaced coolant sensor feel smoother on idle but fan still not kicking in at 96-97 c . Do you no if there is a second sensor near fan or a relay maybe . Fan works with ac on Thanks buddy any help appreciated
That is awesome, im glad my video helped, i made it just to share my experience and save someone else the time having to track down the issue. I also have a recent bmw series that covers just about all the usual maintenance items, waterpump, alternator, oil change, etc.. I've owned and rebuilt about 3 , 3 series bmw's and they always have the same things that need to be fixed. Go ahead and check it out when you get a chance let me know what you think.
@@Everybodyshinetogether1 so it should turn on right away when using ac , but otherwise will activate when temp reaches a certain level. The control module has several speeds, based on temp. Hope this helps 🙏
So I did everything step by step I replaced the part I drained coolant but my fan still only works when it’s unplugged even when. Ac is turned on it doesn’t come on
Hello, I have a 20d n47 and for a while the electro has not turned on, however when I turn on the AC it does go, I have changed the temperature sensor because they have told me that it can be because of that and nothing, it goes up from 90 degrees and does not start either, removing the temperature sensor if it starts. Could someone give me a hand?
Hi, what year and model do you have? Its looks like a possible 2011 x3? Not sure though, the temp sensor is the easiest and cheapest part to fix. Have you checked the power going to the fan itself? Check for constant ground, and check for 12volts constant power? Last thing is signal wire at 4 volta. Do you know how to use a multimeter? Let me know so I can assess from here.
So depending on the model, Some like the 5 series and older 3 series has seperate relays located in the front near the radiator or battery. There are also several relays behind the glove box in that fuse box. 3 series like mine have a integrated fan control module on the radiator cooling fan that controls all the the speed, I haven't yet had to go searching for any relays , because replacing the fan solved my overheating issues. Hope this helps🙏
I’ve replaced that before and I have checked all the fuses and anything else I could think of but the fan still won’t turn on. I think this started after I left a charger on my battery overnight but anyway I don’t know what to do seems like the next thing I have to do is take out the fan because I’ve been told that the Relay or whatever is inside it any advice?
@@findfixxflip “those car guys” said that you should take the fan out and open up the middle to find the module or a relay but that sounds like a big pain in the ass
I replaced the coolant sensor no help, the fan does work when the sensor harness is disconnected, could it be the fan air module that needs to replaced? Any help would be appreciated!
bro i dont have this sensor on my N46N engine 320I E92 my fan works perfect on all speeds but not everytime sometimes it doesn't start until i turn off the car and back on i suspected its the coolant temp sensor in the coolant hose so i changed it and i changed my thermostat, noting that my radiator is new and most hoses also so no leaks. i also changed the fan rely and fuses. what could be the problem with the fan not starting when it should?
What year is it? sometimes there is also a black control unit relay upfront by the fan on some models, maybe relay is bad. What year bmw is this? Is the car overheating? A good way to check is get an IR temp gun, and check engine block temp. usually the sensor sends a signal to fan when it's temp reaches around 95f. That's when the fan's should kick in. Fan will shut off or run low until temp is below this, so the fan shouldn't be running all the time except when you are running the AC. Hope this helps
@@findfixxflip it’s coming from the motor area and I have no engine light on it still drives perfect I changed all sparks and coils and also the solenoids sensor and the front oxygen sensors but I don’t know how to describe the noise could I possibly email you a video of it
Hi, i have fault code 9c53 (electric auxilary heater) seem to have weak blower. Its a bmw e90 n47 lci msport. Would you have any idea about this issue? Thanks
I'm not very familiar with the n47, i could do bit of research and get back to you, What part of country are you from? I don't think we have those here in the states.
Hello, Yes it looks to be similar, when you disconnect the sensor you are basically telling the car its overheating and fan should turn on, if it doesnt then problem is most likely with the fan.
Hello and please respond..my radiator fan always turns ON when i turn the ac on..i live in Florida but i never hear the fan come on any other time??? I am not showing any check engine lites or codes..HOWEVER when i disconnected the coolant harness the fan turned right on..does that mean my COOLANT TEMP SENSOR above mickey mouse ear flange is BAD????? I had the car running, disconnected the coolant connector and fan came right on??
Hello and no everythings sounds like its functioning properly, is the car overheating? The temp sensor just sends a signal at certain temp to turn on the fan, it will run at multiple speeds, depending on what sensor is telling the ecu. Its a cheap fix, and an easy diy. They do go bad pretty often as well. I hope this helps, keep me posted on the progress. 🙏
@@findfixxflip HI its a 2008 328i sedan no it doesnt appear to be overheating, but iin ur video u said if you DISCONNECT the coolant harness with car running and the fan comes ON, then to REPLACE the COOLANT SENSOR (412 part) PLEASE ADVISE **MY FAN only comes on when ac is on and its really HOt here in FLORIDA BY UR VIDEO when disconnected, it turns on..that means the coolant senor is bad??? as u said??
@@gail6904 hello, after reviewing , yes it does sound like that sensor is bad. Disconnecting the temp sensor, does two things 1) tricks car into thinking again is way overheating which signals fan, 2) shows the circuit for system is working properly. Try replacing the sensor first its only $13 on Amazon I put a link to exact one I used in video, it is still working fine my own car so I recommend. If fan still doesn't turn on after, there could be a problem with fan control module, then you would need a new fan. Try that and let me know if that fixes it 👌
@@findfixxflip OKAY i ordered the sensor..you rock i hope it works out ok..did u have to disconnect the battery or anything when installing? thanks great video!! RE: 2008 BMW E90 328i
@@gail6904 No need as long as there aren't any exposed wires you will be good. Just be careful not to overtorque sensor, and run the bleed procedure at the end of video to get rid of the air you are introducing into the system. Let me know how it goes. and Thank you
ok one more question then what does the RADIATOR SWITCH DO in the lower E90 RADIATOR hose? doesnt that turn the fan on too? how do i know that part isn't also bad ??or if its just a bad COOLANT SENSOR?
Yes its a coolant sensor also. Some of bimmers just have one in the hose, other have sensor in the video. That's ones easy fix as well. Just push tabs to remove from hose.
hello! I have 2008 128i with N52 manual transmission. I noticed auto and manual have different type of the cooling fan. I did try everything you did but its still not working. do you have any idea why?
I can do some research for you tommorow. But it could be also there several fuse locations, and if one is blown it won't complete circuit. Have you tried disconnecting your fan, and running jumper leads with 12v to each to see if it turns on? It's easy to do maybe i can do a follow up video for everyone
I researched and a few people have same situation but they said it would work if I cut wires and connect together? Not plug. I am scared to do that because I just bought new cooking fan. Also they didn’t clear explain too so yehs
Hi there BMW 325i 2006 . Have got a same problem with my one too as the fun not working when the overheating lamp on my dashboard comes on , do you think will be the same problem as you describe on your video or will be something else ? Thanks appreciate your video .
yes start with the sensor it is about $13 bucks on amazon. Then do the unlpug procedure to see if you have power going to the fan. Then trace your power to fan make sure you are getting constant 12v. and remote or signal should be around 4 volts. if fan is working with ac or unplugging then it's a problem with the circuit.
Hey so I have this e90 and I’m basically driving and outta no where the fan turns on and it’s rly loud and after 5 seconds engine overheating sign comes up what can be the issue and when I opened the hood after overheating I saw some coolant coming out of reaervator but when I opened the cap it was pretty much full. Any help?
Hello, so when the car reads temp very high, the fan will kick on at different rpms depending on how hot its reading. Did you replace the coolant sensor in the video? If its bad it will send overheating message to the car. Turning on fan at high speed. also are you checking the overflowtank cap with car running? Look for a small stream of water going back in, if there isnt them waterpump is going out or bad already. Hope this helps, thanks for watching 🙏
@@findfixxflip so I did coolant bleed and I did see water going inside the tank does tht mean the tank is good and yes I just changed my coolant temp sensor and the fan is working
Yes there is your problem.. So the bleed procedure takes 12mins, Start the procedure, put a timer on your phone, wait for 12mins and make sure you put a battery charger on to keep the battery voltage normal. You can hear the water flowing, don't stop the bleed until you can't hear any noise coming from the radiator hose area. After that take the key out of the car and check your overflow tank, you will probably need to fill it up a bit after. You definitely have air in the system and that's why its overheating still. Watch the end of this video, around the 9:00 min mark th-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html@@yungxanhxe9
What could be a reason my 2010 128i fan operates properly for local driving, but if its driven for more than an hour the fan fails to turn on @ idle causing it to overheat
Here ya go bud i found this, digging around. Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. THE ENGINE AUXILIARY/COOLING FAN OPERATION, INCLUDING VARIABLE SPEED, IS ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED. FAILURE OF THE FAN MOTOR CAN CAUSE THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUITRY OF THE FAN CONTROL UNIT TO OVERLOAD AND FAIL, CAUSING THE FAN TO STOP OPERATING.
This will be good for testing the circuit as well. Hook a 12 volt test light to battery +, turn the ac on and then probe the signal wire ( it will be the smallest of the 3 wires) at the fan. If the test light lights up then you know that the fan is receiving a signal.
So you fan speed is controllled by the car's ecu. It changes speed based on the engine temperature that the coolant sensor and other sensors relay info. Your fan will go on full speed until the temp is back to normal, then it will run at reduced speed or turn off. How old is the waterpump? when they get old they dont circulate very well and cause the car to run much hotter, also thermostat could be sticking as well. I have a complete video on how to replace those. (th-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html) They both cost around $400 bucks to replace. Hope this helps
@@findfixxflip Hi thanks for the reply The fan kicks in full speed intermittently on cold temperature sometimes 2 minutes after start up. Other times the car will run fine no issues. If I switch it off then the fan is normal again. Anything you would recommend before I change the thermostat and water pump. It's a 2008 325i e92 with 75000 miles on the clock and has not gone over 120 degrees on the gauge under the rev counter Many thanks
@@dartman9265 yeah 75k is pretty low. So try first the coolant sensor. Research the location of your AUC sensor. Also i would get multimeter and measure the current for + and see if's its twelve volts constant., Check ground also with test light. and check if you are getting around 4 volts with signal wire. It might be a faulty control unit on the fan itself.
When I unplug my sensor my fan kicks on full power. Replaced it just incase, but it’s the same. Doesn’t turn on when I turn on the AC. Any ideas what it could be?
It sounds like you have a bad fan control unit, but just to be safe. First check the fan power wire for constant power, then check you brown ground wire, and also check the little small wire which is the signal wire. it should have about 4 volts. After that there are usually 4 different fuses behind the glove box that should be checked. If they are all good replace the fan,
@@findfixxflip just replaced the fan and still no good. Won’t turn on at all even when coolant temperatures are pretty high. Or when I turn on the ac. Only way I can get it to turn on is by disconnecting that sensor which I’ve already replaced. Super lost if anyone has any experience with this any advice would be appreciated
Yes definitely, especially if the code is specific. Usually Ecu isnt the problem, but the relays going bad is very common. im not sure what model and year you have, so i dont know the relay location. However they are easy to test, and replace as well. Hope this helps 🙏
Sounds like the control unit for the fan isn't working properly, I would replace the sensor either way to eliminate that issue and then go to the fan. What you can do is first test the power to fan with 12volts, test your ground. If both is good, then check your signal wire it's the small wire and see if it's getting 4 volts, if all are reading proper then replace the fan.@@KareemJackson-ji3vx
depends, usually the speeds of the fan adjusts to the conditions and temperature of the engine. Did you try disconnecting the plug as shown in the video? If so the fan should kick on full power, because the car believes it's redlining the engine. If it only goes partial power when doing that than i would say replace the fan. There is a fan control unit module on front of the fan that goes bad it also controls the speed of the fan.
Hey what’s up man appreciate the video! My question is when you unplug the coolant sensor will the fan turn on 100% of the time if it’s working properly? Just this morning my car started overheating for the first time since I had it. The fuse is good and it didn’t throw any codes but when I scanned it it said electric fan activation. So I ran a test on it from the scanner and it failed and the fan would not turn on. I tried running ac and heat on high still would not turn on. So after watching your video I unplugged the coolant sensor and it still wouldn’t turn on. So if the unplugging sensor trick is 100% then sounds pretty much like my fan is toast huh? Thanks!
thank you, and yes i agree, Un plugging the sensor basically signals the car that it's overheating and if circuit is working the fan should almost instantly come on. Start with the sensor it's the cheapest fix, about $13 bucks on amazon. then what you can do to test the fan is disconnect the main cable from the top. Run a 12v positive to the large wire, i believe it's yellow wire, then the brown is the ground, small green is the signal wire. So you should be able to activate it with this. If it doesn't then most likely the fan is bad. Also there is a function in the Ista d to activate the fan, if you have that software currently. Thanks for watching
@@findfixxflip awesome man thanks for the response! I’ll replace that sensor and go from there but seems the fan is the issue. Found a guy local who has a fan for 100 so might just go with that since it’s not too crazy to replace. Thanks again for the quick response and advice!
@@danimalmx3 No problem, i had to do the same diagnostic process with mine. I ended up getting a buying a new fan on amazon, but then decided to get a real BMW one at the junkyard, haven't had any issues since then. Definitely route i would go if you have that option
Hey @findfixxflip, great video! I own a 2008 E90 with an automatic transmission. Yesterday, my car entered Limp mode, restricting the RPM and forcing me to drive slowly. After approximately 5 minutes of driving at a low speed, the overheating indicator lit up. Upon inspecting the car, I discovered the fan was not functioning. When I checked the diagnostic codes, it revealed an Electric fan malfunction code. I disconnected the fan connector and used a tester to confirm there was power flowing to it. Indeed, there was power. After reconnecting the fan, it instantly started working again, and the Limp mode issue vanished. I drove the car today, and everything appears to be functioning correctly. Both the fan and AC are operating without any problems. Do you have any insights into what might have caused this issue? I want to avoid a recurrence, especially during a long drive. Thanks for your help!
Honestly, it sounds like it may be time for a new fan, the controller module goes bad and doesn't switch on. I would as a precaution also replace that coolant sensor as well, because if that goes bad it won't send proper signal to fan because its not reading correct temp. Lastly worst case scenario, you will have have to replace water pump and thermostat, only if you are getting continuous overheating warning, and low coolant lights on dash board. Just start with sensor, and fan. Also I prefer to find used oem bmw fans because they are made much better than aftermarket ones these days.
@findfixxflip Thank you so much for the prompt reply, I recently replaced all coolant hoses so there is no leak and no low coolant warning and the temps are normal as well, I am not getting any overheating warnings it only happened when the fan stopped working and I kept driving on limp mode. As soon as the fan started working the temps went back to normal and the warning light went away, I will replace the coolant sensor and and the fan with used oem one as well just to be on the safe side as the overheating can be catastrophic. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
@@moizali1752 no problem, let me know how things go. Usually your symptoms are a sign that the control module is starting to go. The only other thing would be signal from ecu, but that isn't very common to go bad. But if you test the small signal wire it should have around 4 volts , the ecu sends pulses to turn on the fan.
Hi, I have tried to do the bleeding procedure but it doesn't work. I have had my electric coolant pump replaced by a chinese one from ebay. Do you think that may be the reason and I'll have to replace it again?
So that is a good indication , but it also could be a fuse. If you have the software you can activate it to see if its working. My best advice is get the real one for bmw. Here is a video i did for complete process, and the link is at the bottom for one i bought on ebay. However it is the real one from germany. I haven't had any issues since. hadth-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html. Hope this helps
Crazy everyone in the comments is so unaware of cars but I guess if you didn't grow up around vehicles dirt bikes RC cars are real cars you're going to be unaware
Thank you so much 🙏🙏 Your video is Gold because I always wondered why my fan was always off and this helped me to make it work like it used to be thank you so much ☺️
No problem im glad i could help 🙏 More Diys and project vids on the way so stay tuned..
Thanks buddy didn’t think my fan was working till I tried your tip with putting air con on worked perfectly . Coolant sensor am thinking now
No problem man, It's definitely the cheapest possible fix route than replacing the fan. Another thing that i would recommend is if you don't have the software to check the temp of the engine, than just buy a IR temp gun at harbor freight for $25 bucks, point at lower block and wait for temp to reach around 95 fahrenheit. That is the temp the fan is supposed to come on when reached. If car is still overheating than it might be time for a new waterpump and themostat, i just did a detailed tutorial on that as well th-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html
@@findfixxflip you can find coolant temp in secret menu
Yeah my fans not kicking in at 95 or 96c water pump is fine .done the bleed procedure and worked like your video . Only way to keep my car under 100c is to blast the heating stays at 95c but getting to hot for that now lol. blows hot and cold air so think thermostat fine Fuses are ok too thanks I just use the hidden menu for temp
@@jchalmers28jc18have you checked to make sure there is circulation from the water pump, open the overflow tank cap and see if there is a steady stream coming out of the little hole. Also sometimes the fan control unit is bad, and only partially works.
@@findfixxflip yeah pump is working perfectly constant flow coming out wee pin hole at top . I hear it drawing air from the thermostat area . Just replaced coolant sensor feel smoother on idle but fan still not kicking in at 96-97 c . Do you no if there is a second sensor near fan or a relay maybe . Fan works with ac on Thanks buddy any help appreciated
At what temperature should the low speed fan work in BMW 328xi 2009
Thank you so much ! 🙏🏽 Your video was so helpful I fixed my overheating issue
That is awesome, im glad my video helped, i made it just to share my experience and save someone else the time having to track down the issue. I also have a recent bmw series that covers just about all the usual maintenance items, waterpump, alternator, oil change, etc.. I've owned and rebuilt about 3 , 3 series bmw's and they always have the same things that need to be fixed. Go ahead and check it out when you get a chance let me know what you think.
@@findfixxflipdoes fan turn on right when u start the car or when it’s at high temp?
@@Everybodyshinetogether1 so it should turn on right away when using ac , but otherwise will activate when temp reaches a certain level. The control module has several speeds, based on temp. Hope this helps 🙏
So I did everything step by step I replaced the part I drained coolant but my fan still only works when it’s unplugged even when. Ac is turned on it doesn’t come on
Hello, I have a 20d n47 and for a while the electro has not turned on, however when I turn on the AC it does go, I have changed the temperature sensor because they have told me that it can be because of that and nothing, it goes up from 90 degrees and does not start either, removing the temperature sensor if it starts. Could someone give me a hand?
Hi, what year and model do you have? Its looks like a possible 2011 x3? Not sure though, the temp sensor is the easiest and cheapest part to fix. Have you checked the power going to the fan itself? Check for constant ground, and check for 12volts constant power? Last thing is signal wire at 4 volta. Do you know how to use a multimeter? Let me know so I can assess from here.
@@findfixxfliphello, i hace an e92 from 2007, n47 engine i didn’t checked that so i‘lo try tomorrow, you have some tutorial to do it?
Where is the relay for the fan at on these models?
So depending on the model, Some like the 5 series and older 3 series has seperate relays located in the front near the radiator or battery. There are also several relays behind the glove box in that fuse box. 3 series like mine have a integrated fan control module on the radiator cooling fan that controls all the the speed, I haven't yet had to go searching for any relays , because replacing the fan solved my overheating issues. Hope this helps🙏
I’ve replaced that before and I have checked all the fuses and anything else I could think of but the fan still won’t turn on. I think this started after I left a charger on my battery overnight but anyway I don’t know what to do seems like the next thing I have to do is take out the fan because I’ve been told that the Relay or whatever is inside it
any advice?
Which model and year do you have? Have you unplugged the the fan and run a 12+ directly to the fan yet?
@@findfixxflip 2008 335xi
I don’t know how to supply the fan with that
@@findfixxflip “those car guys” said that you should take the fan out and open up the middle to find the module or a relay but that sounds like a big pain in the ass
@@JonathanWornardt i would say just replace the whole unit, but first find out if you can power fan on.
@@findfixxflip how do I power the fan on?
I replaced the coolant sensor no help, the fan does work when the sensor harness is disconnected, could it be the fan air module that needs to replaced? Any help would be appreciated!
What model and year do you have?
2011 BMW 328i xdrive wagon E91
Checked all the fuses, they are good, could it be the cooling fan relay module?
@@kevinbaldwin1111 good possibility
Hello, I’ve got a 2007 bmw 328i auto. Do you know if my vehicle model has and auxiliary fan switch ?
Not sure, but if you do it would be located on the driverside right by the fan, usually attached to it it's a small black box. What is your car doing?
bro i dont have this sensor on my N46N engine 320I E92
my fan works perfect on all speeds but not everytime sometimes it doesn't start until i turn off the car and back on
i suspected its the coolant temp sensor in the coolant hose so i changed it and i changed my thermostat, noting that my radiator is new and most hoses also so no leaks. i also changed the fan rely and fuses.
what could be the problem with the fan not starting when it should?
What year is it? sometimes there is also a black control unit relay upfront by the fan on some models, maybe relay is bad. What year bmw is this? Is the car overheating? A good way to check is get an IR temp gun, and check engine block temp. usually the sensor sends a signal to fan when it's temp reaches around 95f. That's when the fan's should kick in. Fan will shut off or run low until temp is below this, so the fan shouldn't be running all the time except when you are running the AC. Hope this helps
I have a loud engine noise it all help so much to get your opinion on the noise
What kind of noise? Is it knock. Is it constant or comes and go's? Check engine light?. Lemme know
@@findfixxflip it’s coming from the motor area and I have no engine light on it still drives perfect I changed all sparks and coils and also the solenoids sensor and the front oxygen sensors but I don’t know how to describe the noise could I possibly email you a video of it
Sure findfixxflip@gmail.com
@@findfixxflip thanks i Just sent it
Kk co ill check it out and get back to you shortly
Hi, i have fault code 9c53 (electric auxilary heater) seem to have weak blower.
Its a bmw e90 n47 lci msport. Would you have any idea about this issue? Thanks
I'm not very familiar with the n47, i could do bit of research and get back to you, What part of country are you from? I don't think we have those here in the states.
@@findfixxflipoh thats no problem, just thought id ask you after i seen your video. Oh im in ireland :) thanks
@@findfixxflipplease I have issues on BMW e90 my radiator fan blows high on N54 engine
Hey, have u fix the issued
Hey wassup I have a 06 750 I don’t have a bleeder screw on mines but other than that would the procedure be the same? My radiator fan not working
Hello, Yes it looks to be similar, when you disconnect the sensor you are basically telling the car its overheating and fan should turn on, if it doesnt then problem is most likely with the fan.
Know where I would be able to find sensor?
Hello and please respond..my radiator fan always turns ON when i turn the ac on..i live in Florida but i never hear the fan come on any other time??? I am not showing any check engine lites or codes..HOWEVER when i disconnected the coolant harness the fan turned right on..does that mean my COOLANT TEMP SENSOR above mickey mouse ear flange is BAD????? I had the car running, disconnected the coolant connector and fan came right on??
Hello and no everythings sounds like its functioning properly, is the car overheating? The temp sensor just sends a signal at certain temp to turn on the fan, it will run at multiple speeds, depending on what sensor is telling the ecu. Its a cheap fix, and an easy diy. They do go bad pretty often as well. I hope this helps, keep me posted on the progress. 🙏
@@findfixxflip HI its a 2008 328i sedan no it doesnt appear to be overheating, but iin ur video u said if you DISCONNECT the coolant harness with car running and the fan comes ON, then to REPLACE the COOLANT SENSOR (412 part) PLEASE ADVISE **MY FAN only comes on when ac is on and its really HOt here in FLORIDA BY UR VIDEO when disconnected, it turns on..that means the coolant senor is bad??? as u said??
@@gail6904 hello, after reviewing , yes it does sound like that sensor is bad. Disconnecting the temp sensor, does two things 1) tricks car into thinking again is way overheating which signals fan, 2) shows the circuit for system is working properly. Try replacing the sensor first its only $13 on Amazon I put a link to exact one I used in video, it is still working fine my own car so I recommend. If fan still doesn't turn on after, there could be a problem with fan control module, then you would need a new fan. Try that and let me know if that fixes it 👌
@@findfixxflip OKAY i ordered the sensor..you rock i hope it works out ok..did u have to disconnect the battery or anything when installing? thanks great video!! RE: 2008 BMW E90 328i
@@gail6904 No need as long as there aren't any exposed wires you will be good. Just be careful not to overtorque sensor, and run the bleed procedure at the end of video to get rid of the air you are introducing into the system. Let me know how it goes. and Thank you
My 318i 3 series always engine going off in traffic .. not come on for 5to minutes.
Going off overheating or something else?
ok one more question then what does the RADIATOR SWITCH DO in the lower E90 RADIATOR hose? doesnt that turn the fan on too? how do i know that part isn't also bad ??or if its just a bad COOLANT SENSOR?
Yes its a coolant sensor also. Some of bimmers just have one in the hose, other have sensor in the video. That's ones easy fix as well. Just push tabs to remove from hose.
hello! I have 2008 128i with N52 manual transmission. I noticed auto and manual have different type of the cooling fan. I did try everything you did but its still not working. do you have any idea why?
I can do some research for you tommorow. But it could be also there several fuse locations, and if one is blown it won't complete circuit. Have you tried disconnecting your fan, and running jumper leads with 12v to each to see if it turns on? It's easy to do maybe i can do a follow up video for everyone
I researched and a few people have same situation but they said it would work if I cut wires and connect together? Not plug. I am scared to do that because I just bought new cooking fan. Also they didn’t clear explain too so yehs
@@findfixxflipand I’ll try to do running jumper! Sorry I just saw this. Thank you for respond!
@@marcozuz7072 No problem my man
I tried this and when i unplugged the sensor the car shut off .. any idea what that could be ?
Hmm, thats interesring never heard of that before..
@@findfixxflip i found out the problem i put the fuse back into the wrong spot
@@nyy-xp2qc oh sweet, im glad you found the issue.. 🙏
Hi there
BMW 325i 2006 . Have got a same problem with my one too as the fun not working when the overheating lamp on my dashboard comes on , do you think will be the same problem as you describe on your video or will be something else ?
Thanks appreciate your video .
yes start with the sensor it is about $13 bucks on amazon. Then do the unlpug procedure to see if you have power going to the fan. Then trace your power to fan make sure you are getting constant 12v. and remote or signal should be around 4 volts. if fan is working with ac or unplugging then it's a problem with the circuit.
Would this cause the AC from not blowing cold too, or is there specific temperature sensor I also need to check?
So this will cause the AC not blow cold, right?
Hey so I have this e90 and I’m basically driving and outta no where the fan turns on and it’s rly loud and after 5 seconds engine overheating sign comes up what can be the issue and when I opened the hood after overheating I saw some coolant coming out of reaervator but when I opened the cap it was pretty much full. Any help?
Hello, so when the car reads temp very high, the fan will kick on at different rpms depending on how hot its reading. Did you replace the coolant sensor in the video? If its bad it will send overheating message to the car. Turning on fan at high speed. also are you checking the overflowtank cap with car running? Look for a small stream of water going back in, if there isnt them waterpump is going out or bad already. Hope this helps, thanks for watching 🙏
@@findfixxflip so I did coolant bleed and I did see water going inside the tank does tht mean the tank is good and yes I just changed my coolant temp sensor and the fan is working
So the water stream just means that your waterpump is working properly. Did the level after the coolant bleed the reservoir go down?@@yungxanhxe9
@@findfixxflip yes it did btw I did the bleeding for maybe 5 min is tht the reason for overheating or maybe I have thermostat problems?
Yes there is your problem.. So the bleed procedure takes 12mins, Start the procedure, put a timer on your phone, wait for 12mins and make sure you put a battery charger on to keep the battery voltage normal. You can hear the water flowing, don't stop the bleed until you can't hear any noise coming from the radiator hose area. After that take the key out of the car and check your overflow tank, you will probably need to fill it up a bit after. You definitely have air in the system and that's why its overheating still. Watch the end of this video, around the 9:00 min mark th-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html@@yungxanhxe9
I have x5 e70 30! 2009 is 99c open thermostats But at 108c work fan
Is down 105c is normal??thanks
Yes they operate with a desired range so they don't always open at 95c-120c
What could be a reason my 2010 128i fan operates properly for local driving, but if its driven for more than an hour the fan fails to turn on @ idle causing it to overheat
Here ya go bud i found this, digging around. Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. THE ENGINE AUXILIARY/COOLING FAN OPERATION, INCLUDING VARIABLE SPEED, IS ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED. FAILURE OF THE FAN MOTOR CAN CAUSE THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUITRY OF THE FAN CONTROL UNIT TO OVERLOAD AND FAIL, CAUSING THE FAN TO STOP OPERATING.
This will be good for testing the circuit as well. Hook a 12 volt test light to battery +, turn the ac on and then probe the signal wire ( it will be the smallest of the 3 wires) at the fan. If the test light lights up then you know that the fan is receiving a signal.
Hi my fan goes on full intermittently
No fault codes stored
Waterpump seems ok with the pedal test any ideas please
Thanks
So you fan speed is controllled by the car's ecu. It changes speed based on the engine temperature that the coolant sensor and other sensors relay info. Your fan will go on full speed until the temp is back to normal, then it will run at reduced speed or turn off. How old is the waterpump? when they get old they dont circulate very well and cause the car to run much hotter, also thermostat could be sticking as well. I have a complete video on how to replace those. (th-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html) They both cost around $400 bucks to replace. Hope this helps
@@findfixxflip
Hi thanks for the reply
The fan kicks in full speed intermittently on cold temperature sometimes 2 minutes after start up. Other times the car will run fine no issues. If I switch it off then the fan is normal again. Anything you would recommend before I change the thermostat and water pump. It's a 2008 325i e92 with 75000 miles on the clock and has not gone over 120 degrees on the gauge under the rev counter
Many thanks
@@dartman9265 yeah 75k is pretty low. So try first the coolant sensor. Research the location of your AUC sensor. Also i would get multimeter and measure the current for + and see if's its twelve volts constant., Check ground also with test light. and check if you are getting around 4 volts with signal wire. It might be a faulty control unit on the fan itself.
@@findfixxflip
Thank you very much for your help with the issue
I'll keep you posted
👍👍👍👍
@@dartman9265 no problem
What if you unplug it and it still doesn’t come on
It means the circuit is broken most likely a bad fan control unit.
I did this and the fan turn on and went off and didnt turn on again, what could I do?
Is the car overheating? The fan speed will adjust based on engine temperature. Start with sensor replacement. Thats the cheapest solution
It is also helpful to trace power to the fan with test light.
When I unplug my sensor my fan kicks on full power. Replaced it just incase, but it’s the same. Doesn’t turn on when I turn on the AC. Any ideas what it could be?
It sounds like you have a bad fan control unit, but just to be safe. First check the fan power wire for constant power, then check you brown ground wire, and also check the little small wire which is the signal wire. it should have about 4 volts. After that there are usually 4 different fuses behind the glove box that should be checked. If they are all good replace the fan,
Thank you, just checking all the wiring looks good will swap the unit soon
@@benmendez3285 sounds good lemme know the outcome
@@findfixxflip just replaced the fan and still no good. Won’t turn on at all even when coolant temperatures are pretty high. Or when I turn on the ac. Only way I can get it to turn on is by disconnecting that sensor which I’ve already replaced. Super lost if anyone has any experience with this any advice would be appreciated
@@benmendez3285 what was the year and model could possibly be a relay not switching on.
My fan isn’t working I also have an Ecu relay code could that be the reason?
Yes definitely, especially if the code is specific. Usually Ecu isnt the problem, but the relays going bad is very common. im not sure what model and year you have, so i dont know the relay location. However they are easy to test, and replace as well. Hope this helps 🙏
I have a bmw 335 I just took off the sensor and my fan started spinning when I turn on the AC the fan doesn’t spin
Sounds like the control unit for the fan isn't working properly, I would replace the sensor either way to eliminate that issue and then go to the fan. What you can do is first test the power to fan with 12volts, test your ground. If both is good, then check your signal wire it's the small wire and see if it's getting 4 volts, if all are reading proper then replace the fan.@@KareemJackson-ji3vx
@@findfixxflip everything was working fine until I got the over voltage could I possibly blow a fuse
Why did you have to wiggle it for it to start back up at the end? Do you have to do that normally, or have you not had to do it again?
So I wiggled it because I thought that The connector was intermittent so I ended up clipping it and soldering on a new connector
So it was prob just connector all the time🙄
thanks bro fixed my car for 22$
No problem man, glad i could help
I replace the sensor and the fan doesnt go full power. It goes half speed. Is it a bad sensor?
depends, usually the speeds of the fan adjusts to the conditions and temperature of the engine. Did you try disconnecting the plug as shown in the video? If so the fan should kick on full power, because the car believes it's redlining the engine. If it only goes partial power when doing that than i would say replace the fan. There is a fan control unit module on front of the fan that goes bad it also controls the speed of the fan.
@@findfixxflip yes i did that and it was going full power
@@findfixxflip but when i plug it back to the sensor it goes really slow
@@nathang1323 does it go high speed when you turn on the air conditioning?
@@nathang1323 do you have access to any of the software bmw tools or inpa?
Is it same with bmw e60..?
Yes, I just did some quick research and it looks to be same, whats going on with your m5?
This saved me Ty
Awesome glad i could help🙏
Hi if there are any 1series owners in here make sure for this process the fan speed is on medium (4 bars) for E8X 1 series only
Hey what’s up man appreciate the video! My question is when you unplug the coolant sensor will the fan turn on 100% of the time if it’s working properly? Just this morning my car started overheating for the first time since I had it. The fuse is good and it didn’t throw any codes but when I scanned it it said electric fan activation. So I ran a test on it from the scanner and it failed and the fan would not turn on. I tried running ac and heat on high still would not turn on. So after watching your video I unplugged the coolant sensor and it still wouldn’t turn on. So if the unplugging sensor trick is 100% then sounds pretty much like my fan is toast huh? Thanks!
thank you, and yes i agree, Un plugging the sensor basically signals the car that it's overheating and if circuit is working the fan should almost instantly come on. Start with the sensor it's the cheapest fix, about $13 bucks on amazon. then what you can do to test the fan is disconnect the main cable from the top. Run a 12v positive to the large wire, i believe it's yellow wire, then the brown is the ground, small green is the signal wire. So you should be able to activate it with this. If it doesn't then most likely the fan is bad. Also there is a function in the Ista d to activate the fan, if you have that software currently. Thanks for watching
@@findfixxflip awesome man thanks for the response! I’ll replace that sensor and go from there but seems the fan is the issue. Found a guy local who has a fan for 100 so might just go with that since it’s not too crazy to replace. Thanks again for the quick response and advice!
@@danimalmx3 No problem, i had to do the same diagnostic process with mine. I ended up getting a buying a new fan on amazon, but then decided to get a real BMW one at the junkyard, haven't had any issues since then. Definitely route i would go if you have that option
Hey @findfixxflip, great video!
I own a 2008 E90 with an automatic transmission. Yesterday, my car entered Limp mode, restricting the RPM and forcing me to drive slowly. After approximately 5 minutes of driving at a low speed, the overheating indicator lit up. Upon inspecting the car, I discovered the fan was not functioning. When I checked the diagnostic codes, it revealed an Electric fan malfunction code. I disconnected the fan connector and used a tester to confirm there was power flowing to it. Indeed, there was power. After reconnecting the fan, it instantly started working again, and the Limp mode issue vanished. I drove the car today, and everything appears to be functioning correctly. Both the fan and AC are operating without any problems. Do you have any insights into what might have caused this issue? I want to avoid a recurrence, especially during a long drive. Thanks for your help!
Honestly, it sounds like it may be time for a new fan, the controller module goes bad and doesn't switch on. I would as a precaution also replace that coolant sensor as well, because if that goes bad it won't send proper signal to fan because its not reading correct temp. Lastly worst case scenario, you will have have to replace water pump and thermostat, only if you are getting continuous overheating warning, and low coolant lights on dash board. Just start with sensor, and fan. Also I prefer to find used oem bmw fans because they are made much better than aftermarket ones these days.
@findfixxflip Thank you so much for the prompt reply, I recently replaced all coolant hoses so there is no leak and no low coolant warning and the temps are normal as well, I am not getting any overheating warnings it only happened when the fan stopped working and I kept driving on limp mode. As soon as the fan started working the temps went back to normal and the warning light went away, I will replace the coolant sensor and and the fan with used oem one as well just to be on the safe side as the overheating can be catastrophic. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
@@moizali1752 no problem, let me know how things go. Usually your symptoms are a sign that the control module is starting to go. The only other thing would be signal from ecu, but that isn't very common to go bad. But if you test the small signal wire it should have around 4 volts , the ecu sends pulses to turn on the fan.
obrigado pelo conteúdo!
Na boa!🙏
Good video
Thanks man 🙏
Hi, I have tried to do the bleeding procedure but it doesn't work. I have had my electric coolant pump replaced by a chinese one from ebay. Do you think that may be the reason and I'll have to replace it again?
So that is a good indication , but it also could be a fuse. If you have the software you can activate it to see if its working. My best advice is get the real one for bmw. Here is a video i did for complete process, and the link is at the bottom for one i bought on ebay. However it is the real one from germany. I haven't had any issues since. hadth-cam.com/video/Y_Yw87jw4sk/w-d-xo.html. Hope this helps
Informative but the music was louder than you're voice and very hard to hear what was being said!
Thanks for your feedback, i agree music was rendered too loud, my latest vids have much better audio now...
I thought fan starts at 100C.
Yes, but im the the states so we go by farenheit.. 🤣 thanks for watching though...
👍
Not a bad video but the music choice is just not right it's to loud your voice is sinking under it
Thanks man, i was still learning my sound at the time, have gotten much better since then🙏 thanks for the feedback though
Crazy everyone in the comments is so unaware of cars but I guess if you didn't grow up around vehicles dirt bikes RC cars are real cars you're going to be unaware
True, for me i honestly like sharing knowledge i have so i don't mind if people are just trying to learn.
@@findfixxflip I have 730li bmw 2007,fan not working, did there any cause like fuses,,,etc
@@Abu.khair-oz4si9tf9v could be a few things... I'd have to talk to you