This is the best tutorial I seen on loader application. KNOW THE SIGNS BEING PROVIDED--excellent advice. Been at this for years and regardless of what signs you use I would recommend 90% of them coming from the bucket (watch it) and throw away distractions (mechanical bucket level indicator). Great advice to lower RPM and ground speed. When cleaning established grade I tap the ground ever so slightly with the bucket to reinforce my knowledge of position. People buy loader tractors and only back drag their entire life--Sad! Thanks, good job!
Thank you for producing such a great tutorial. I just bought a tractor with a Front End Loader and I have been looking for information on how to best use it. Awesome explanation and practical demonstrations.
Thank you sir. I have a new 2038r and have been spreading a load of mud. I was getting the job done but not really knowing how to do it the right way. Your video really helped me a lot. Thank you again
I got a 3320 with a 300cx loader. It isn't as easy to figure out on the fly as one would think. This video has shown me how to correct pretty much everything that I was doing wrong. Thanks!
Perfect presentation. Scrolled to the bottom of the comments, and not 1 negative. Audio, and visual was superb. I'm about to rent an orange one, and this will help. Never ran one. Thanks for your time. Enjoy the summer.
What a great channel. I needed these videos, we are new to this. So just having someone say "hey, this does this function" is phenomenal. Thank you! Now i'm off to watch all of your other videos lol
Very well done. One of the better video's I've seen for all around clarity and ease of watching. No bouncing around. You explain things very well, and gave me some good tips. I have a new 3039r so it's great to see it in action as well. Thanks for going to the trouble to do this. I am enjoying your video's.
Well Sir, at first l thought your demo was kind of "corny", Boy-o-boy was l WRONG ! You my "Good-Man", have Finally demonstrated the Best grading technique on ALL of U-tube! Have been using tractors & equipment fer years & finally GLAD to see someone else "catching on". This technique takes an ASTOUNDINGLY level of skill to master. Thank you Sir for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring. Best wishes with all your endeavours.
You make it look easy, and a lot of that I'm sure is just stick time. But thank you for the tips. Getting my first 1025r this week and eventually, I have to put about an acre of top soil and level / grade the whole thing.
Am surprised there was nothing regarding the "float" feature of the loader. Using the float feature in conjunction with the bucket tilt is an incredibly useful way to make sure you're not digging too deep and also for backwards leveling. Maybe you have that in another video, but IMO, it's fundamental.
I know what you are saying and honestly I just don't use the feature so it wasn't top of mind when I made this video. I really should make a video on the float feature. I don't use it, but it would help others.
@@danimalshouse I hear you and understand. Personally, I'm embarrassed to admit how long it took me to realize it was available and then how useful it is. Fast forward to now and it's an *essential* tool as much if not more than the basic up/down function. Whether it's gravel or crushed rock on the driveway / yard, scooping up black dirt from the field and bringing it to the garden, clearing, moving snow, picking up brush / branches with the grapple or digging with the HD stump bucket. The float is fantastic. Like everything else, a person has to play with it and experiment... I've got a JD 4105 and matched JD loader. For me? A perfect combination for my needs. "The little tractor that can!"
You are so correct and you never load one side of the bucket more than the other. You don't back drag with the cylinders extended all the way. These are all ways to destroy you machine. Floating is the best way to level with a compact tractor, period!
Great video! I didn’t see anyone else mention this so I thought I would point it out. It’s lower risk working with loose dirt like this but back dragging with the bucket extended is the fastest way to bend your tilt rams. They are engineers for strength when retracting. Back-dragging with the bucket extended using the front edge puts them under compression and it’s easy to exceed their design limits.
That's actually a great point. I bent a ram on my backhoe one time while it was fully extended like these would be in the backdrag position. The simple concept is that the rams are designed to provide more of a pulling force compared to being heavy compressed on the way they would be in the backdrag example. My thoughts are that if the bucket was not put into a pry position between two hard objects and was only used for pulling loose material backwards there would be little to no risk of bending two rams on the loader. You basically mentioned this. Thanks for watching and the compliment.
That's because small tractors are built with cheap, low quality parts! Bigger/industrial tractors are built with multipliers on those tilt cylinders. So there's probably about three times as much pressure on them but they don't bend nearly as easy!!! Besides the engineers that design the small tractor think that people will not use them very hard! They know that lots of people buy those miniature tractors for image only and will never max out their capabilities!!! Industrial size tractors are designed from end-to-end from top to bottom so that they cannot damage themselves! Small tractors are not like that!!! Many people call those miniature tractors disposable tractors!!! It's also true that the bigger agricultural tractor loader attachments are not designed for commercial or industrial use. They are only designed for light duty farm use. My dad knew that when he bought a Massey Ferguson agricultural tractor to use out in commercial job sites loading trucks all day. He had his new Massey Ferguson equipped with an industrial loader! It looked a little bit odd because the loader was yellow and the rest of the tractor was red and gray. They also had to make a few modifications to the tractor to make it fit on there ! But the industrial loader had the multipliers on the tilting rams to give it faster action and more movement! I won't even go into mechanical parallel linkage on the small tractors although at some time in the past an aftermarket company made heavy-duty loader attachments available for small tractors. Parallel linkage kept the loader bucket at the constant level to the ground as it went up and down because the tilt cylinders were connected to the frame of the tractor, not to the boom of the loader! A perfect design if you use your loader as a forklift! Additionally it will not dump material over the back of the bucket onto the machine or the operator when the bucket is high up!!! The multipliers that I'm talking about are part of the linkage between the tilt cylinders and the bucket. They give that bucket about twice the travel angle and twice the speed with more strain on the cylinders! Bending a cylinder on an industrial tractor is very rare! But straightening hydraulic Rams is fairly simple! There are several videos showing how to it. They can be done with basic tools and a bottle jack.
Excellent video, things we may know but a great refresher course and learned a few things, you operate that bucket very well!! It ain’t rocket science but it sure does help to understand cause and effect!!
Awesome tutorial! I’ve always been working with forklifts so when I got my 2032R a bucket was totally new for me. I did exactly what you said and dug some small holes on accident and made it worse LOL. After watching this I totally know the plan now😎 thanks!
If you're used to using a forklift you should check into getting a loader attachment with parallel linkage. Telehandlers use hydraulic parallel linkage since they use forklifts at high elevations. Parallel linkage loaders are very rare for small tractors. If you're handy with a welder you can modify your own. 😀😃 I am a very huge fan of parallel linkage on all loaders! I cannot stand the weird geometry on many large loaders!!! Tractors that are marketed as a material handler usually have the parallel linkage to make certain attachments work properly, like forks!!! I often wish that parallel linkage was available on backhoes and excavators!!!
Great info. My driveway project is on hold due to rain today, but I will be putting some of these tips and tricks into practice after it dries out a bit.
Good trainer but I have a small question. I own a 2018 1025R with the loader and backhoe. I see from the video, my bucket is like yours. The cutting edge material is about four inches wide with one inch (bevel) exposed. From the back of the cutter to the heel of the bucket, there is a height difference of about 3/4"; the cutter is proud of the bottm of the bucket. That makes getting a flat track difficult and backdragging challenging. Good hint about supporting the bucket with the tractor instead of just floating it down then unlocking the float. Ballast is ABSOLUTELY necessary!
Thanks for this video. I bought a 3038e for my landscaping business and last week I was having the worst moving and removing dirt and material on a driveway I’m working on. Luckily I have a patient homeowner. But I’m not happy looking like I don’t know what I’m doing.
Overall good instruction. You did not mention the float function. By pushing the lift lever all the way forward you get in float mode. (Check your manual.) The loader will follow the contour of the ground. I use it when plowing snow on my gravel drive. Already had to plow 3 times. I'm in northwest Wisconsin.
Me too. Rocks, boulders gravel, dirt, mulch, hay bales. After thirty years with same tractor it’s like an extension of your fingers and one gets to know exactly what’s where. But…then time for a newer tractor and loader and all the feel changes.
You have my dream tractor I couldn't convince the wife I needed it for 5 acres... Not for a lack of trying though I did get a good deal on a LX so thanks for the loader tips it will be very helpful
Excellent teaching! As an individual that does this every day, the only thing I felt you missed was at the end when filling and dumping the bucket it should be said that loose materials are no problem, but, do not try and scoop up or even dig into ground that isn't soft. Yes, it can be done but the amount of wear and tear on the loader and tractor frame, pivot pins and the cylinders will dramatically shorten the lifespan of all the components. While small areas can be dug, trying to do a large area can be difficult or impossible in shale or rocky top/sub soils. There is a reason that backhoes and trackhoes are around, as they have very narrow buckets and longer reach. This allows them to concentrate all of the break out force into a small area. They also have large teeth to break up the hard pack and make it easier. Yes, adding teeth to your loader bucket will make it a lot easier to breakup compacted ground and frozen aggregates like sand or stone dust. While it helps, it still isn't enough of a change that stops the possibility of tractor or loader damage with excessive abuse. The extreme wear on the pump, pins and cylinders if done on a regular basis will ensure you only do it once. I doubt many of us could afford to pay the repair bill twice for a twisted loader frame or cracked transmission case and/or bell housing and final drives? It is called a loader for a reason, Lol. Use it for it's intended purpose and it will treat you well. If you want to abuse something? use a rental unit, as that's what they are for right? I'm kidding!, although, this is why you never buy anything used at an auction with the words United or Hertz/Penske on it Lol!
Whenever using the loader bucket you should always have something heavy on the back. And since you're using the loader to move material you might as well have the scraper box on the back so you can grade it out real nice. I love a loader bucket that has a square heel on it so I can grade with it when backdragging. Otherwise the bucket tends to float too high on the dirt. I very seldom use the cutting-edge to back drag. And I prefer only to run loaders that have parallel linkage, and multipliers on the bucket cylinders to give it more speed and more range of motion! But you really do need more weight on the back if you're lifting the loader bucket way up. That's when the tractor would flip over!!! It's also a real good idea to have wheel weights or some sort of weights added to the back of the tractor!!! Even putting a non freezing liquid in the back tires!
One added tip. Your back axle determines the level of your bucket. If your back axle is level, youll dig level from left to right side to side. If you dont start off level, its very difficult to keep a grade. Doesnt matter if your front axle is skewed a little. My father invented a bucket with a 45 deg cutting edge and flat sides that make it very easy to dig etc.
Great video! You are great at explaining concepts clearly and gave some great tips for beginners. I just ordered the same spec tractor and can't wait for it to come in! Did you add wheel spacers to yours?
Thank you for the praise! I did not order wheel spacers. I have seen the concept but haven't had the need to this point in my tractor usage experience. Thanks for watching!
@@danimalshouse good to know! I would love to see another “getting started” video on the 3039 showing even the most basic features from starting the tractor to operating and even changing out implements.
There are several tricks to turning a slope into level ground with a machine that is not designed to do that. The best thing to do by far is to get a "Top and Tilt kit" with a drag box on the back. Otherwise you can start picking up dirt on the high side of the slope and dumping on the lower side of the slope. Once the low side is as high as the high side then you can back drag or dragbox it to Ballance it out level. I have done that many times on different job sites. It's a little bit easier if you have a backhoe on the back trying to make a road across the slope. Just stretch the backhoe way out on the uphill side as you're cutting the road with the front bucket. You can cut 50 feed of road in just a few minutes that way, unless you have trees and boulders in your way. Just incase this comes in handy sometime. 😃😉
Thanks for some great information in the video. I need to jump on my 1026R and get a bit of practice on loader work with all what I've leant. I have been thinking about rear wheel spacers having seen the pros of them. But seeing your concepts highlighting uneven ground when digging, will they actually add more tilt to the tractor being wider or less. Im thinking it might cause even more angled cuts from the side of the bucket. Also I guess the bucket needs to be about the same width as the increased width of the rear tires or the wheels will be riding the sides of the uncut soil. It may only be trivial but it is interesting and should be considered when putting in large spacers. Cheers for sharing your info, looking forward to more tractor school 🚜 😀
Thank you for the feedback. I never understood the wheel spacers myself. To me, the biggest tipping risk is having a loaded bucket and not using a ballast box or other weight in the back of the tractor. The spacers never interested me. Thanks for watching!
Spacing the wheels out is for row crop work. The best way to keep your machine from tipping over is by keeping a very heavy implement on the back and keeping a heavy nonfreezing liquid in the back tires! Also adding very heavy wheel weights to the back axle of the tractor. Never carry a full bucket high up in the air when you're driving around! Always carry a full bucket low to the ground.
Even if you have unlevel base, you can walk through the problem/process and manage bucket height/float. It will even out. You have to learn to work around the tire holes.
Fro t ens loaders on small tractors are very picky and sensitive. The gauge of steel uses to make them is fairly thin and the cutting edge is very sharp combined with the fact that the husraulic cylenders are small and easy to push in and pull out a few inches when under strain wich is made worse by the dampening springs designed into them and the machine being on the light side to begin with, gives an effect of the buclet wandering around as it fills and empties and when digging on compactes ground. Anyone who has ever operated one of these and also a dedicated front ens loader, or even a T190 bobcat knows what im talking about.
Yes that is correct. This machine isn't like a commercial dozer or other earth moving machine. When I have to level something I always scratch it loose with a digger or roto-tiller so it's easier to work with.
One point, what makes your bucket level is your rear tires. Your front axle is mounted on a centre pin, and pivots over the surface regardless of what the fixed solid back axle does
I see and that very well could be true, but I still notice every little bump that the front hits so I try to keep it as level as I can. May times I wish I had a grader but have to make the small tractor work.
I'm guessing that one of your hydraulic hoses is "almost in" but not all the way locked together. I'd turn the tractor off, move the joystick up down left right to take the pressure off, and try to get the hose to go all the way in. If that's the problem you should be golden. Good luck!
The Rear Axle is fixed to the Tractor hence the Cutting Edge will react according to what the Rear wheels are running on hence needs to start the Grade on a level Run which is the length/Distance from the Rear Wheels to the Cutting edge to perpetuate a straight level Grade and as explained here just a Gentle touch of Pitch on the Cutting Edge until in the Ground 6" then Level Off - Just a Tad ! Low Box gives the COGNITIVE time required for Immediate adjustment of the Cutting Edge as it reaches its dig depth to maintain the EVEN Grade until the Bucket is full !. Tractors have a Floating FRONT Axle as opposed to a Floating Rear Axle on a Loading Shovel !- if the Rear of a Tractor is not sufficiently weighted !- When travelling Down Hill with a Full Bucket of Heavy material- The Tractor Can Potentially See Saw on the FRONT Axle ( As the distance fore and aft from the front axle to the Rear Axle and to the Cutting Edge is approximately equidistant) hence the Front Axle is The Fulcrum Point !- If the See Saw Occurs hence lifting weight OFF the Rear Axle - All the Tractors Mass is Imposed upon the Front FLOATING Axle - upon which if the Tractor is on a Side Slope - either Slight or Severe !- The Tractor can Rock Over - Pivoting SIDEWAYS on the Floating Axle and Have the Tractor Over on its side - Rapido !. Hence Best to keep the Bucket LOW LOW down in order it can be dropped in the event a Roll Over is starting- Dropping the Bucket will Correct the Roll Over as it puts the Rear axle Back on the ground - the Back Axle being Fixed then restabilises the Tractor. But the Tractor Really Should be Ballasted at the rear to A - prevent the destabilsation and B to Give Traction when Grading and also to prevent Wheel Spin which creates Holes in the Grade which then Throws the Tractor Off Grade and gives the Operator a Rough Ride and causes Spill off the Bucket which further perpetuates a uneven grade!!. I Guess some will now comment saying what a load of Bollacks !! LMAO !! 😆🤠
We have JD tractors on the ranch for over 40 years. I run them at full speed, using low gears. Diesel engines do not like to lug and hydraulics work better at full power. Using open station tractors use ear protection.
First off you have freshly lain top soil which is by my view dry and soft. Doing this on hard packed soil with weeds etc. is quite different. I have a Kubota L3800 and it's tricky but do-able. What you're doing I could accomplish with a Tonka truck, just saying. Funny you never mentioned the float feature to back drag, hmmm.
Wow, let me know when you are having breakfast next so I return the favor and poop in your Cheerio's! I actually don't have any issue with your observation, it's just a bit unnecessary. What I did was about as easy as it gets but that's not the point, I was communicating concepts to and for new operators. This video is my most positively commented on video by far and often by new operators that don't work construction, didn't grow up on a farm, and don't have much experience. I assume you are experienced so to you this stuff is sandbox toy type stuff. Not a problem, it's just not for you. Good call, I forgot about the float feature. I wish I had referenced it. Either way, have a good day and thanks for watching.
I work right at the limit. If your front wheels get off the ground, you are in the danger zone. If you are tipped to the side do not dump. You can dump if you are tipped forward and back
That's a good point in that having a front pivot reduces the effect of hitting a low spot by half but it still drops some. Basically if you go into a 3" hole with the front the machine would drop 1.5" whereas the same hole with the rear tires would have the full 3" effect. I would say that the pivot helps but does not eliminate the challenge of uneven terrain.
Bad thing about John Deere you can't use the loader in the bucket motions all at same time and your video just proved that... That's why I like Kubota multiple motion
I may be misunderstanding what you mean but if you mean that while you are raising the boom you can tip the bucket, you actually can perform that action, its just not nearly as smooth as other loading machines like a skid loader, etc. The valve is very tight I would say and wants to select flow to one or the other and not both but there is a way to do it if the joystick is held just right.
This is the best tutorial I seen on loader application. KNOW THE SIGNS BEING PROVIDED--excellent advice. Been at this for years and regardless of what signs you use I would recommend 90% of them coming from the bucket (watch it) and throw away distractions (mechanical bucket level indicator). Great advice to lower RPM and ground speed. When cleaning established grade I tap the ground ever so slightly with the bucket to reinforce my knowledge of position. People buy loader tractors and only back drag their entire life--Sad! Thanks, good job!
excellent tuition, wish id seen this when i first got my tractor
Thank you for producing such a great tutorial. I just bought a tractor with a Front End Loader and I have been looking for information on how to best use it. Awesome explanation and practical demonstrations.
bought my first little lawn tractor, been playing with this, this was a huge help for the projects im going to do.
Congrats!
Compact Tractor Loader School - I need it!!! Thanks Danimal
You bet!
As a new user of a front loader, I found this very useful!
Great to hear!
As you said, know the theory and get the practice, in that order. Great tutorial, very useful even for those of us with decades of experience.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir. I have a new 2038r and have been spreading a load of mud. I was getting the job done but not really knowing how to do it the right way. Your video really helped me a lot. Thank you again
Glad to help
Thank you! you may have saved an entire generation
I got a 3320 with a 300cx loader. It isn't as easy to figure out on the fly as one would think. This video has shown me how to correct pretty much everything that I was doing wrong. Thanks!
Perfect presentation. Scrolled to the bottom of the comments, and not 1 negative. Audio, and visual was superb. I'm about to rent an orange one, and this will help. Never ran one. Thanks for your time. Enjoy the summer.
Glad it was helpful!
You did a really good job is speaking and demonstrating this skill.
Thank you!
Great tutorial. I am getting my first real tractor…JD1025R and this is a great lesson. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
this is the best video i have seen yet on using a front end loader with a bucket. thanks for taking the time to put this together.
As a novice to tractors/loaders your clear explanation and demonstration saved me a lot of mistakes and do-overs. Thanks.
Glad to help
I have never had a front loader...getting one soon and this video has been a great help! Thanks Dan!
Glad to help
Gracias Mr Danimal! Your the bomb homes, im gonna put these tips to work on my new Mahindra 1640
Thank you!
This video was so very help thank you from a Compact Tractor rookie....
Thank you!
What a great channel. I needed these videos, we are new to this. So just having someone say "hey, this does this function" is phenomenal. Thank you! Now i'm off to watch all of your other videos lol
Glad to help!
New owner of a 2025R. Excellent video sir!
Thanks! 👍
Very well done. One of the better video's I've seen for all around clarity and ease of watching. No bouncing around. You explain things very well, and gave me some good tips. I have a new 3039r so it's great to see it in action as well. Thanks for going to the trouble to do this. I am enjoying your video's.
Glad it was helpful and good luck out there.
Well Sir, at first l thought your demo was kind of "corny", Boy-o-boy was l WRONG ! You my "Good-Man", have Finally demonstrated the Best grading technique on ALL of U-tube! Have been using tractors & equipment fer years & finally GLAD to see someone else "catching on". This technique takes an ASTOUNDINGLY level of skill to master. Thank you Sir for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring. Best wishes with all your endeavours.
Thanks for the awesome praise! It does take a long time to get good at operating machinery but basic tips can help speed it up. Good luck out there!
You make it look easy, and a lot of that I'm sure is just stick time. But thank you for the tips. Getting my first 1025r this week and eventually, I have to put about an acre of top soil and level / grade the whole thing.
Am surprised there was nothing regarding the "float" feature of the loader. Using the float feature in conjunction with the bucket tilt is an incredibly useful way to make sure you're not digging too deep and also for backwards leveling. Maybe you have that in another video, but IMO, it's fundamental.
I know what you are saying and honestly I just don't use the feature so it wasn't top of mind when I made this video. I really should make a video on the float feature. I don't use it, but it would help others.
@@danimalshouse I hear you and understand. Personally, I'm embarrassed to admit how long it took me to realize it was available and then how useful it is. Fast forward to now and it's an *essential* tool as much if not more than the basic up/down function. Whether it's gravel or crushed rock on the driveway / yard, scooping up black dirt from the field and bringing it to the garden, clearing, moving snow, picking up brush / branches with the grapple or digging with the HD stump bucket. The float is fantastic. Like everything else, a person has to play with it and experiment... I've got a JD 4105 and matched JD loader. For me? A perfect combination for my needs. "The little tractor that can!"
This was cool, thanks! Being a new tractor guy I really appreciate it. Although mine is an older model, (1985 Yanmar 187D, ) this still applies.
Thanks for the help, your a good teacher.
I’m getting a 2016 JD 3032 e in 1 week
Enjoy and be patient with your skill level at first.
I learned several things during this video. Your explanations are very simple. Good work.
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
wow. fantastic video and top notch demonstration
Thank you
For working, leveling I float my bucket all the time. Its a *really* great feature that doesnt get near enough attention, use.
You are so correct and you never load one side of the bucket more than the other. You don't back drag with the cylinders extended all the way. These are all ways to destroy you machine. Floating is the best way to level with a compact tractor, period!
You are an amazing instructor. Thank you. I will come back and watch more of your stuff.
I appreciate that
Great video! I didn’t see anyone else mention this so I thought I would point it out. It’s lower risk working with loose dirt like this but back dragging with the bucket extended is the fastest way to bend your tilt rams. They are engineers for strength when retracting. Back-dragging with the bucket extended using the front edge puts them under compression and it’s easy to exceed their design limits.
That's actually a great point. I bent a ram on my backhoe one time while it was fully extended like these would be in the backdrag position. The simple concept is that the rams are designed to provide more of a pulling force compared to being heavy compressed on the way they would be in the backdrag example. My thoughts are that if the bucket was not put into a pry position between two hard objects and was only used for pulling loose material backwards there would be little to no risk of bending two rams on the loader. You basically mentioned this. Thanks for watching and the compliment.
@@danimalshouse ⁹
If you know what you're doing there's no harm to be done... But that's the whole thing not too many people know what they're doing.. or talking about
That's because small tractors are built with cheap, low quality parts!
Bigger/industrial tractors are built with multipliers on those tilt cylinders. So there's probably about three times as much pressure on them but they don't bend nearly as easy!!!
Besides the engineers that design the small tractor think that people will not use them very hard! They know that lots of people buy those miniature tractors for image only and will never max out their capabilities!!!
Industrial size tractors are designed from end-to-end from top to bottom so that they cannot damage themselves! Small tractors are not like that!!!
Many people call those miniature tractors disposable tractors!!!
It's also true that the bigger agricultural tractor loader attachments are not designed for commercial or industrial use. They are only designed for light duty farm use.
My dad knew that when he bought a Massey Ferguson agricultural tractor to use out in commercial job sites loading trucks all day.
He had his new Massey Ferguson equipped with an industrial loader!
It looked a little bit odd because the loader was yellow and the rest of the tractor was red and gray.
They also had to make a few modifications to the tractor to make it fit on there ! But the industrial loader had the multipliers on the tilting rams to give it faster action and more movement!
I won't even go into mechanical parallel linkage on the small tractors although at some time in the past an aftermarket company made heavy-duty loader attachments available for small tractors.
Parallel linkage kept the loader bucket at the constant level to the ground as it went up and down because the tilt cylinders were connected to the frame of the tractor, not to the boom of the loader! A perfect design if you use your loader as a forklift! Additionally it will not dump material over the back of the bucket onto the machine or the operator when the bucket is high up!!!
The multipliers that I'm talking about are part of the linkage between the tilt cylinders and the bucket. They give that bucket about twice the travel angle and twice the speed with more strain on the cylinders!
Bending a cylinder on an industrial tractor is very rare!
But straightening hydraulic Rams is fairly simple! There are several videos showing how to it. They can be done with basic tools and a bottle jack.
Hydraulic Rams have more power to extend than they do to retract.
There's more surface area should push on.
Excellent video, things we may know but a great refresher course and learned a few things, you operate that bucket very well!! It ain’t rocket science but it sure does help to understand cause and effect!!
Thanks 👍
Just come across your channel....Great video. I agree, it takes practice but with practice comes the perfection one is looking for!! 👍
Well said. Thank for watching!
Thanks so much for this informational video. I just got my new tractor and I’m learning.
Good luck!
That transfer or reaction of the fel arm was great info,,,,,,,Here is another, Use the float in the forward position and try that!
Great tip!
Awesome tutorial! I’ve always been working with forklifts so when I got my 2032R a bucket was totally new for me. I did exactly what you said and dug some small holes on accident and made it worse LOL. After watching this I totally know the plan now😎 thanks!
You can do it!
If you're used to using a forklift you should check into getting a loader attachment with parallel linkage.
Telehandlers use hydraulic parallel linkage since they use forklifts at high elevations.
Parallel linkage loaders are very rare for small tractors. If you're handy with a welder you can modify your own. 😀😃
I am a very huge fan of parallel linkage on all loaders! I cannot stand the weird geometry on many large loaders!!!
Tractors that are marketed as a material handler usually have the parallel linkage to make certain attachments work properly, like forks!!!
I often wish that parallel linkage was available on backhoes and excavators!!!
@@danimalshouse 😊😊
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Great video for a novice like myself! Ty!
Glad it was helpful!
From one Danimal to another, great video!
Hey, thanks!
Absolutely great video! Explained step by step while showing at the same time! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Watching it again after I attempted to handle some dirt piles.....great advice and you are really good.
Thanks. It takes practice plus knowing your machine. Glad it helped and good luck out there!
Great video on how to be a typical green horn homeowner operator.
Great info. My driveway project is on hold due to rain today, but I will be putting some of these tips and tricks into practice after it dries out a bit.
Good luck.
Good trainer but I have a small question. I own a 2018 1025R with the loader and backhoe.
I see from the video, my bucket is like yours. The cutting edge material is about four inches wide with one inch (bevel) exposed. From the back of the cutter to the heel of the bucket,
there is a height difference of about 3/4"; the cutter is proud of the bottm of the bucket. That makes getting a flat track difficult and backdragging challenging.
Good hint about supporting the bucket with the tractor instead of just floating it down then unlocking the float.
Ballast is ABSOLUTELY necessary!
Thank you. Very to the point, no fat to skip through.
Good luck out there!
Starting some bucket work this week , ( first timer ) and this has been very helpful ! Thank-you so much .
Don't expect to be great at it right away but keep at it, YOU CAN DO IT! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tips! Watching you from Kazakhstan)
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, well done sir.
Thank you kindly!
Excellent. Wish I knew this 15 years ago. Thanks
Excelllent , wish i saw this 8 years ago.
Thank you!
Thanks for this video. I bought a 3038e for my landscaping business and last week I was having the worst moving and removing dirt and material on a driveway I’m working on. Luckily I have a patient homeowner. But I’m not happy looking like I don’t know what I’m doing.
Most say it takes a lot of practice because it does. Good luck out there!
Well done video; great advice! Tim in northern TN
Glad it was helpful! Take care
Overall good instruction. You did not mention the float function. By pushing the lift lever all the way forward you get in float mode. (Check your manual.) The loader will follow the contour of the ground. I use it when plowing snow on my gravel drive. Already had to plow 3 times. I'm in northwest Wisconsin.
Good call! Thank you. I'm still waiting for removable snow near GB
Very good video, I have just enough experience moving dirt with front end loaders to appreciate first hand what you are talking about.
Thanks 👍
Me too. Rocks, boulders gravel, dirt, mulch, hay bales. After thirty years with same tractor it’s like an extension of your fingers and one gets to know exactly what’s where. But…then time for a newer tractor and loader and all the feel changes.
@@fland49 Makes you feel like a new operator all over again!
Thank you for sharing as I’m a beginner
You are so welcome!
You have my dream tractor I couldn't convince the wife I needed it for 5 acres... Not for a lack of trying though I did get a good deal on a LX so thanks for the loader tips it will be very helpful
Make your wife believe that she is your dream wife and before long the tractor will be yours!
@@danimalshouse I tried even tried a powerpoint with cute puppies. I am not giving up though.
Just got a JD4300 with a JD430 FEL. Came inside after my first few loads to watch this. Great info and I feel a lot more confident.
Excellent teaching! As an individual that does this every day, the only thing I felt you missed was at the end when filling and dumping the bucket it should be said that loose materials are no problem, but, do not try and scoop up or even dig into ground that isn't soft.
Yes, it can be done but the amount of wear and tear on the loader and tractor frame, pivot pins and the cylinders will dramatically shorten the lifespan of all the components. While small areas can be dug, trying to do a large area can be difficult or impossible in shale or rocky top/sub soils.
There is a reason that backhoes and trackhoes are around, as they have very narrow buckets and longer reach. This allows them to concentrate all of the break out force into a small area. They also have large teeth to break up the hard pack and make it easier.
Yes, adding teeth to your loader bucket will make it a lot easier to breakup compacted ground and frozen aggregates like sand or stone dust. While it helps, it still isn't enough of a change that stops the possibility of tractor or loader damage with excessive abuse.
The extreme wear on the pump, pins and cylinders if done on a regular basis will ensure you only do it once. I doubt many of us could afford to pay the repair bill twice for a twisted loader frame or cracked transmission case and/or bell housing and final drives?
It is called a loader for a reason, Lol. Use it for it's intended purpose and it will treat you well. If you want to abuse something? use a rental unit, as that's what they are for right? I'm kidding!, although, this is why you never buy anything used at an auction with the words United or Hertz/Penske on it Lol!
Whenever using the loader bucket you should always have something heavy on the back.
And since you're using the loader to move material you might as well have the scraper box on the back so you can grade it out real nice.
I love a loader bucket that has a square heel on it so I can grade with it when backdragging. Otherwise the bucket tends to float too high on the dirt.
I very seldom use the cutting-edge to back drag.
And I prefer only to run loaders that have parallel linkage, and multipliers on the bucket cylinders to give it more speed and more range of motion!
But you really do need more weight on the back if you're lifting the loader bucket way up. That's when the tractor would flip over!!!
It's also a real good idea to have wheel weights or some sort of weights added to the back of the tractor!!! Even putting a non freezing liquid in the back tires!
Well said, great points Kerry. Thank you!
One added tip. Your back axle determines the level of your bucket. If your back axle is level, youll dig level from left to right side to side. If you dont start off level, its very difficult to keep a grade. Doesnt matter if your front axle is skewed a little. My father invented a bucket with a 45 deg cutting edge and flat sides that make it very easy to dig etc.
Good tip. Thank you!
Great video! You are great at explaining concepts clearly and gave some great tips for beginners. I just ordered the same spec tractor and can't wait for it to come in! Did you add wheel spacers to yours?
Thank you for the praise! I did not order wheel spacers. I have seen the concept but haven't had the need to this point in my tractor usage experience. Thanks for watching!
@@danimalshouse good to know! I would love to see another “getting started” video on the 3039 showing even the most basic features from starting the tractor to operating and even changing out implements.
great segment. really informative.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very well done and helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank You for the good/clear instruction. How much does a tractor/loader like that cost?
Low end small models are $15k and larger framed higher HP models are easily $30k new. Lots of variables and choices though.
Excellent video
Awesome
Total newbie
Thanks for this
There are several tricks to turning a slope into level ground with a machine that is not designed to do that. The best thing to do by far is to get a "Top and Tilt kit" with a drag box on the back.
Otherwise you can start picking up dirt on the high side of the slope and dumping on the lower side of the slope.
Once the low side is as high as the high side then you can back drag or dragbox it to Ballance it out level.
I have done that many times on different job sites.
It's a little bit easier if you have a backhoe on the back trying to make a road across the slope.
Just stretch the backhoe way out on the uphill side as you're cutting the road with the front bucket.
You can cut 50 feed of road in just a few minutes that way, unless you have trees and boulders in your way.
Just incase this comes in handy sometime. 😃😉
Thank you
So true...the tractor will tell what is going on if you listen to it!
It's one of the reasons I didn't order a cab.
Thanks for some great information in the video. I need to jump on my 1026R and get a bit of practice on loader work with all what I've leant. I have been thinking about rear wheel spacers having seen the pros of them. But seeing your concepts highlighting uneven ground when digging, will they actually add more tilt to the tractor being wider or less. Im thinking it might cause even more angled cuts from the side of the bucket. Also I guess the bucket needs to be about the same width as the increased width of the rear tires or the wheels will be riding the sides of the uncut soil. It may only be trivial but it is interesting and should be considered when putting in large spacers.
Cheers for sharing your info, looking forward to more tractor school 🚜 😀
Thank you for the feedback. I never understood the wheel spacers myself. To me, the biggest tipping risk is having a loaded bucket and not using a ballast box or other weight in the back of the tractor. The spacers never interested me. Thanks for watching!
Spacing the wheels out is for row crop work.
The best way to keep your machine from tipping over is by keeping a very heavy implement on the back and keeping a heavy nonfreezing liquid in the back tires! Also adding very heavy wheel weights to the back axle of the tractor.
Never carry a full bucket high up in the air when you're driving around! Always carry a full bucket low to the ground.
Keep a half bucket of dirt in bucket when when back blading. Makes a big difference
I agree. Good tip, I wish I would have added that. Take care!
Even if you have unlevel base, you can walk through the problem/process and manage bucket height/float. It will even out. You have to learn to work around the tire holes.
Super helpful for a beginner
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you ,i learn a lot 👍👍👍👍
Good video, thank you!
So much easier with a single stick control, much harder on my x729 with two levers! Nice tractor, i'll have a compact someday!
Fro t ens loaders on small tractors are very picky and sensitive. The gauge of steel uses to make them is fairly thin and the cutting edge is very sharp combined with the fact that the husraulic cylenders are small and easy to push in and pull out a few inches when under strain wich is made worse by the dampening springs designed into them and the machine being on the light side to begin with, gives an effect of the buclet wandering around as it fills and empties and when digging on compactes ground. Anyone who has ever operated one of these and also a dedicated front ens loader, or even a T190 bobcat knows what im talking about.
Excellent
The dirt has to be pretty loose to be able to do most of this right?
Yes that is correct. This machine isn't like a commercial dozer or other earth moving machine. When I have to level something I always scratch it loose with a digger or roto-tiller so it's easier to work with.
Excellent video. Thanks. 🤠
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the info.
Good luck out there!
great video
Thanks!
Enjoyed the video.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you. Have no clue and about to get a tractor.
You can do it!
One point, what makes your bucket level is your rear tires. Your front axle is mounted on a centre pin, and pivots over the surface regardless of what the fixed solid back axle does
I see and that very well could be true, but I still notice every little bump that the front hits so I try to keep it as level as I can. May times I wish I had a grader but have to make the small tractor work.
Good video. Thanks..
Thank you too!
Where do you get a bucket leveling rod like you have ?
It came with my loader stock when it was new. I would ask the dealer. Good luck!
Have 300 x loader it ran just fine but parked it the next year it lifts but it won’t go forward or backwards any ideas what it could bet
I'm guessing that one of your hydraulic hoses is "almost in" but not all the way locked together. I'd turn the tractor off, move the joystick up down left right to take the pressure off, and try to get the hose to go all the way in. If that's the problem you should be golden. Good luck!
Good job
The Rear Axle is fixed to the Tractor hence the Cutting Edge will react according to what the Rear wheels are running on hence needs to start the Grade on a level Run which is the length/Distance from the Rear Wheels to the Cutting edge to perpetuate a straight level Grade and as explained here just a Gentle touch of Pitch on the Cutting Edge until in the Ground 6" then Level Off - Just a Tad ! Low Box gives the COGNITIVE time required for Immediate adjustment of the Cutting Edge as it reaches its dig depth to maintain the EVEN Grade until the Bucket is full !.
Tractors have a Floating FRONT Axle as opposed to a Floating Rear Axle on a Loading Shovel !- if the Rear of a Tractor is not sufficiently weighted !- When travelling Down Hill with a Full Bucket of Heavy material- The Tractor Can Potentially See Saw on the FRONT Axle ( As the distance fore and aft from the front axle to the Rear Axle and to the Cutting Edge is approximately equidistant) hence the Front Axle is The Fulcrum Point !- If the See Saw Occurs hence lifting weight OFF the Rear Axle - All the Tractors Mass is Imposed upon the Front FLOATING Axle - upon which if the Tractor is on a Side Slope - either Slight or Severe !- The Tractor can Rock Over - Pivoting SIDEWAYS on the Floating Axle and Have the Tractor Over on its side - Rapido !. Hence Best to keep the Bucket LOW LOW down in order it can be dropped in the event a Roll Over is starting- Dropping the Bucket will Correct the Roll Over as it puts the Rear axle Back on the ground - the Back Axle being Fixed then restabilises the Tractor. But the Tractor Really Should be Ballasted at the rear to A - prevent the destabilsation and B to Give Traction when Grading and also to prevent Wheel Spin which creates Holes in the Grade which then Throws the Tractor Off Grade and gives the Operator a Rough Ride and causes Spill off the Bucket which further perpetuates a uneven grade!!.
I Guess some will now comment saying what a load of Bollacks !! LMAO !! 😆🤠
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS !
W
Any time!
We have JD tractors on the ranch for over 40 years. I run them at full speed, using low gears. Diesel engines do not like to lug and hydraulics work better at full power. Using open station tractors use ear protection.
Thanks for sharing
Agreed. Lugging the tractor at low RPM doesn't let hydralics or engine work at peak power.
Thanks. Well spoken no HYPE and did not endorse any products on ask you to hit the like button.
You are welcome. I don't like the constant HYPE either and try to keep it simple.
BEST EVER!!!
Thank you
Awesome thanx brother
Thanks for watching!
awesome thanks!!!
[thank, you for youre video.👍 just, bought a case ck. 530 diesel Backhoe]👍
Good choice!
First off you have freshly lain top soil which is by my view dry and soft. Doing this on hard packed soil with weeds etc. is quite different. I have a Kubota L3800 and it's tricky but do-able. What you're doing I could accomplish with a Tonka truck, just saying. Funny you never mentioned the float feature to back drag, hmmm.
Wow, let me know when you are having breakfast next so I return the favor and poop in your Cheerio's! I actually don't have any issue with your observation, it's just a bit unnecessary. What I did was about as easy as it gets but that's not the point, I was communicating concepts to and for new operators. This video is my most positively commented on video by far and often by new operators that don't work construction, didn't grow up on a farm, and don't have much experience. I assume you are experienced so to you this stuff is sandbox toy type stuff. Not a problem, it's just not for you. Good call, I forgot about the float feature. I wish I had referenced it. Either way, have a good day and thanks for watching.
I work right at the limit. If your front wheels get off the ground, you are in the danger zone. If you are tipped to the side do not dump. You can dump if you are tipped forward and back
One front tire dosnt tip the bucket/machine. The rear tires are always in the same plane as the bucket because they dont have a pivot like the front.
That's a good point in that having a front pivot reduces the effect of hitting a low spot by half but it still drops some. Basically if you go into a 3" hole with the front the machine would drop 1.5" whereas the same hole with the rear tires would have the full 3" effect. I would say that the pivot helps but does not eliminate the challenge of uneven terrain.
Float function takes a lot of the thinking out of it.
Good thought. I agree. Thanks!
Bad thing about John Deere you can't use the loader in the bucket motions all at same time and your video just proved that... That's why I like Kubota multiple motion
I may be misunderstanding what you mean but if you mean that while you are raising the boom you can tip the bucket, you actually can perform that action, its just not nearly as smooth as other loading machines like a skid loader, etc. The valve is very tight I would say and wants to select flow to one or the other and not both but there is a way to do it if the joystick is held just right.
@@danimalshouse yeah that's what I mean you can't run the loader and the bucket both at the same time.. where Kubota you can smooth as silk