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Good info. This should be required viewing for all who buy or operate a tractor. These things aren't always obvious to a newbie. I made the mistake once of using the 4x4 to drive forward while the backhoe bucket was on a stump (looked to be very loose and about to come out, just needed a little more power to pull it out). Big mistake. I did get the stump out, but I also bent the cylinder rod on the dipper stick. When the rods/cylinders are extended, they are vulnerable to any back pressure put on them.
I have a John Deere compact 1790 I think?. It's a good little tractor. It's a 4WD 28hp. I have broken the pinion gears in the front axle 2 times. those gears are $500 a set! Not sure why the teeth break, but it usually breaks when I was digging/scrapping gravel sand out of our wash. I finally realized it's a small farm tractor with a bucket, it isn't a "construction" tractor. It's really for cleaning out horse and pig stalls, tilling a small garden maybe, piles of grass. Bucket only lifts 1000 pounds. I use mine a lot for digging scrapping and pallet forking. I would rather have a case 4WD construction tractor with 90-100hp. There is a difference in tractors! Get the tractor for the job. When your new on a ranch you think a tractor is a tractor. I've learned a lot about features and expectations of different types and manufacturers. Great video! enjoyed and learned something new! Thanks.
I think a lot of dealers don't properly match tractors to customers. If my customers want construction equipment, I refer them to where they can get construction equipment. Compact tractors are, in reality, light-to-medium duty ag equipment. It's a big difference
I do kinda bone headed stuff all the time, but I think if a fella backs off a little when they're doing something sketchy, it'll avoid a lot of problems
When scraping with the bucket nose down like that (forward or backward), the cylinder is extended all the way which makes it much weaker. If you can do most of your force movement with everything "tucked" and pulled in, like you're saying, People will have a much better time. Also, 23 hours on on my 25s and i didn't know about side/angled torsion and its likely effects. Thank you for saving me a $20,000 tractor. or at the very least a loader frame.
Thank you for pointing out these things we are doing without thinking. My LS tractor does everything I ask of it but I never thought about the abuse I'm putting it thru.
These tractors really put up with a lot. I'm not rich, so I guess I like being a little more gentle with my equipment. Can't afford to have everything busted when I'm hoping to retire!
Reading some of these comments reinforces my decision of buying a new tractor as opposed to one used by some mechanical abuser. I will take your advice in trying to keep my tractor out of the dealer's repair shop.
Finally a video where somebody gets it...👍 Now this! is a great video for all of those first time tractor owners.. you and I have the same respect for equipment well done
That vertical scrapping with the bucket always confused me, caught my son doing that with mine. If you look at the edge of the bucket when its on the ground you actually scrape better with a very slight tip forward. Imagine a fillet knife, your using the cutting edge to cut the ice/grass/whatever off the hard surface. You dont get deli meat by dragging your knife edge vertically across the meat. For back dragging i use the rear of the bucket on the ground and actually tip the blade up, my bucket has a flat spot on the back that works pretty well. Or again, just a slight tip forward to pull back material so i can scoop it up. The corner hooks for a bucket should be put on at an angle toward the center of the blade edge. Set the hook, hook a chain, draw it to the center of the bucket and weld it into place. This reminds you not to do an off center lift with one single corner hook and avoids those bending/twisting damages to your loader. Most compact buckets cant handle a single hook in the center, they will tear out of the bucket unless you add reinforcements across the top of the bucket itself. 3x3 or 4x4 angle iron 1/4” thick across the top will hold the hook in the center and avoid tear outs but you still can’t pull with them, the limit is the quicktach “feet”, they will twist and bend really bad.
Good video. I have a JD 1025R. One of the handiest attachments I have is a 4ft box blade. The most important thing to keep on hand is patience. You can do a lot with a sub-compact tractor, but it takes longer than with a “real” tractor.
Good review….I listened to an old time operator who welded hooks on my bucket…he said to place 3. One in center for single chain lifts and 2 over support mounts near the loader arm positions for double chain lifting (like a longer log etc). I had to have em and haven’t use those yet.
As a mechanic on dump trucks, loaders, excavators, backhoe, and pickups I can say your video is 100% correct I font have a tractor all I gave us a John deere x330 mower and I don't really want a electric front loader atxwill break faster than a hydraulic loader, plus it only luftd 4 ibches
Absolutely the best info here. After my 1025 and 3038 having been used in wrong capacity for loader I won't make these mistakes on my 4044M. Avoid the pitfalls to damages to the loader components. Thanks for the update
I work as a tractor mechanic, but for bigger tractors. I really liked this video. Good lecture, really stable camera work. Always good putting yourself into the mind of the customer. I never really thought about all the ways they can damage the loaders.
Maybe you can tell me what happened to my old Ford 4000 ? It has a loader on the front and the 2 control levers are mounted on the control valves that's bolted to the frame..the frame actually has the hydraulic fluid tank in it and this setup has a large suction hose and a small high pressure hose that both screw into a single remote pump that runs off the engines crankshaft. I was lifting some fairly heavy pieces off a large tree trunk that I had chainsawed off.. I went to move the tractor getting ready to attach the chain I had around the trunk piece and one of the control valve levers seal blew and was leaking hydraulic fluid out as the engine was running..the loader raised to its maximum height and stayed there until I shut the engine off..then the loader came down slowly...now I can't get the loader to go up anymore and thinking it damaged the 2 bigger lift hydraulic cylinders..maybe bypassing internally ? I see no leaks on the 2 large lift cylinders but these are way bigger than the 2 smaller MAXIM branded bucket cylinders...anyone here have any ideas ? I dread having to remove these 2 big cylinders !
@@rosskrause3926 From what you describe the hydralic control block is damaged. Cylinders are likely ok. Maybe wrong words, English is not my own language.
Recently stumbled onto your channel... had a few chuckles during the video. The bucket hook placement in particular was a good one.🙄 Having spent my entire 45+ year working career as a heavy equipment operator (btw a sub compact tractor owner as well) I can assure you that you are indeed correct in claiming that there are an infinite number of creative ways to destroy equipment. Be it a home, small farm setting or industrial job site the principles you elude to are the same.... the equipment used and capabilities of same, however, are vastly different. Even so I have seen heavy duty, well designed industrial equipment and/or components severely damaged or routinely destroyed by ignoring the very basic principles you outline in your video.
All I've learned from this video is that new loaders are made of glass. I've seen most of the things in this video detailed in old tractor manuals as part of the operating instructions (Not in the 'do nots' section, either, in the 'do' section), and to boot my loader has not only factory chain hooks on the corners of the bucket, but the main pins for the boom are off-center, so you can walk it around to different positions, including so that one side is higher than the other, or further forward than the other. To me breaking things like described in this video are less of a sign of misuse, and more of a sign of underequipment.
That's impressive. Which old tractors are you referring to? We work on lots of 50+ year old machines, and the modern equivalents beat the old loaders hands-down in every category
@@HomesteadBandwagon My specific loader with the chain hooks and off-center pins is a JD 1010, in fairness it is an industrial model, but I believe the ag model was equipped with the same. The manuals I'm referencing were for a '60s-ish Farmall and an aftermarket loader for a '50s John Deere 70.
My old Massey Ferguson has been around for 40 years and still runs great. I've been doing almost everything he said not to do. They new shit is pretty but ain't worth what they cost
Been doing it wrong for 35 years. Watched every operator do it wrong also. Basically the new tractors are made to break. Paint them pink and put cup holders on them. 50 k wheelbarrows. If I can't dig a ditch or back drag rocks. Or dig under and lift out sidewalk slabs then it's over. Panzy tractors like most of the next generation. Thanks for sharing.
All good advice. That said, I think manufacturers are ignoring an addressable market by not having "heavy" versions of their machines. A lot of people would pay the premium for a compact tractor that qualified as heavy equipment.
Matching the right loader based on HP is about the most important thing you can do. I remember the JD 245 loaders being used on everything from 2150 (50 HP) up to 2955 (105 HP). Needless to say the 245 did not hold up well to the 2755- 2955 tractors. But I have had one on my 2350 MFWD (62 HP) for over 20 years and I have not had an issue. The bucket is a bent up rusty pile of crap, but the loader is tight and I have never changed a pin or bushing. I can't say that I have ever saw an LS tractor before, I will assume it is along the price/ quality of a Branson or Kioti. Not knocking any brand, but just remember they can sell their heavy metal for cheaper 'cause their metal ain't nowhere near what old school steel was.
I never thought about these but my loader is bluit a fair bit different any way so that's probably why i haven't torn it up for context its full homemade loader that on day i was pulling fence post up with it and one had 3feet of concrete around it and i didn't even notice it wqs stiff till i saw the tires go flat and bust my rim
Im looking to buy an LS. Thank you for the tips, it will be my first tractor ever. My neighbor does all the things you mentioned with his tractor. Never really thought about it but it makes sense. And I like your videos, keep up the good work
@@HomesteadBandwagon MT357PCT/PCTC. I don't know what the abbreviations mean and i don't understand the 2 different transmission. I was going to get a cab one. But i don't think for my use its worth the cost.
The 57 is a great machine. Plenty of power. If a cab is even CLOSE to being in your budget, get it. You will be thanking yourself for many years to come. The 2 transmissions would be a manual or a hydrostatic. The manual will get you more power, but can be a pain if you're doing lots of loader work or working in confined spaces
They're not designed to exert downward pressure or to be used like a bulldozer. What's so hard to understand about that? Great video. I learned a lot. 🚜👍🏻
that is why I had a full sub frame assembly added to my Compact tractor. The Sub frame is for the backhoe attachment that was a 3 point now is a four pin connection and the sub frame goes from the front drive assembly, Ties into the loader assemble and comes out past the rear drive assemble. Cost 1500.00 usd.
Hey man, as a person with a newly acquired tractor (1966 Case 930 CK), this info is so helpful! I have subscribed! Any insight on the right way to run hydraulics for adding a loader, without tying up the rear remotes? I can't seem to find that anywhere. Do I need to add a front hydraulic pump? Anyway, great video! Thanks!
Good tips. This is off topic but I noticed your LS loader looks very similar to some of the Kioti loaders (specifically the KL2610 and KL4030C), at least the detachable portion. The only difference I notice is your arms are straight along the top rather than curved. Looking at the LS LL3110 and LL3300, they may use the same curved arms. Perhaps they're made in the same Korean factory, or maybe Kioti sometimes buys from LS (KL4030 vs KL4030C for example).
Good points on tweaking from corners, but I have to call bs on the scraping. With a loader when you need to dig grade down, that is exactly how you would remove material to get the job done. Typically you would take a cut and level out the bucket to not just keep digging but there is going to always be force against anything opposite of the force applied. If it’s got a floppy bucket afterwards does not mean you used it wrong, it’s more than likely got some weaker cylinders and valves than they should have used on the equipment itself. I understand a lot of sub compact and compact owners are only going to be moving manure or some gravel, but sometimes you’re going to have to dig, and this just made me laugh.
There's a big line between digging and scraping. Digging soft material isn't going to hurt much, but scraping hard ground with your bucket cylinders completely flexed-out is just asking for trouble!
@@HomesteadBandwagon I could agree with that, especially with a smaller compact tractor. But there is a difference between going vertical with the bucket with the wheels off the ground and a slightly downward angle to take a ‘cut’ out. So I see your point. Depends on the approach, but just seems like you’d be trying to mess up something…
Excellent video and well explained. As I watched it I thought about how many times someone in your shop must have said, "I can fix this loader, but I can't fix stupid." 🤣
Funny thing about tractor dealers. They are more than happy to take your money, but neglect to tell you the things you should look out for when using. Then you inevitably break something, and its "not covered by warranty".
Man this video confuses me. I guess from a mechanics point of view I get it, but I'm one of those end users who try to make my tractor do everything and so far I've been successful at it, I guess. I have a Kioti compact tractor and for 7 years I have been doing land development type of work. It takes forever, but I will grade a driveway with it, make trails with it with all the stump work that involves, dig out hard packed clay and push up trees and root balls all while my tractor is groaning and straining. I do try to avoid leverage on the corners, but otherwise I never think about babying a tractor. Now it is fair to say I may be too rough on my tractor, but it seems to keep doing things it has always done. This video seems to me to really dumb down tractors in general. Perhaps it will make me think a little more, but that is not a fiberglass bucket and those are not plastic hinge pins. That tractor should scrape at a 45 all day long? Maybe I got the right tractor for me, but 7 years in I'm still doing things normally a bulldozer would be doing because I can't afford a bull dozer. I just spend more time on a project than most, but I feel like I get the same job done eventually. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get a million kudzu roots out of the ground. Any ideas?
It's important to know the limitations of any machine you're operating. Tractors aren't cheap! I think there is a lot a tractor CAN do, but it's possible to put undue stress on your loader. The most important thing to pay attention to is putting stress on the loader cylinders when they are exposed. Extreme stress over time can cause premature failure. That being said, if an operator is tuned into their machine and not pushing it beyond its limits, that machine will last for many years. It's a balancing act between outright abuse and good old fashioned hard use
Whats the fix for the floppy bucket you referred to? I disconnected my loader to replace a clutch. After getting it back on, I had the floppy bucket which I figured was air in the system. You could eliminate most of it by raising the bucket and cycling the bucket. But the problem returned the next day.
That's a tough one! I'm not a hydraulic expert, by any means. Fluid bypassing the seals is a usual suspect, but what you're experiencing sounds a bit different. I'd wonder if you just have some junk in one of your quick connects that is causing a slight loss of pressure or a bad o-ring in one of them. Maybe disconnect them all and liberally apply a whole mess of wd40.
Some handy tips most of it is common sense. I've noticed most tractors in America just come with standard buckets in Australia most tractors are sold with 4in1 buckets .
I had a guy tell me that they were doing self-leveling loaders in Australia and Europe on sub-compact tractors. Is that accurate? I haven't seen many under 60HP out here
@@smygandefisen6258 Do you have the option for a front mount PTO on compact tractors? That and a self leveling loader with a brush mower would make my life complete
I'll admit, I initially tried to backdrag with the loader bucket. I immediately noticed how it was forcing both cylinders to collapse. Whoa! That ain't right. Then I saw your video. Yeah, I was ignorant. Gotta remember, it's not a skid loader.
I still back drag with ours, but ya just gotta be mindful. It probably won't screw anything up right away, but years of misuse will result in some hefty bills down the line. If you're not bull-moosing it with the cylinders exposed, you should be good. You can always lay the bucket flat and drag a bit harder if ya need to.
Recently got a tractor for the first time. Thanks for the info. Is there a good source of an extensive list of do's and do not's for new tractor owners. I'd like to minimize breakage not be proud of breakage.
Not that I've seen, but that's a real good idea. There's a lot of opinions on what "improper" usage is, but I'll bet a person could whip up a list of the basics to prevent obvious ways to wreck a machine. Your owners manual is always the best resource, of course, but it seems like they do leave some stufd out. I'll look into doing a more all-encompassing list!
Spot on… You also gave all the info anyone ever needs… Common sense applies… If you don’t understand basic levers and balance, you shouldn’t be in a tractor seat. If you want yer expensive tractor to last, don’t abuse it. There are proper and improper ways to use every tool, no matter how complex or simple it might be. Don’t try to use a tool you don’t know how to use. A loader is not a dozer, don’t over torque a square frame or you will regret it. This is all common sense stuff… Unfortunately, common sense is not that common.
If you grapple material, it is almost impossible to get an equal amount of weight on each loader arm. Are you saying anyone with a grapple is mis-using the loader?
We use a grapple regularly. It is always best to keep a load relatively centered between the loader arms. This minimizes risk. If the load is so uneven that it twists your loader frame, it's uneven enough to tip your tractor. I'd certainly want to avoid doing both of those things
In Louisiana, the guys that have more dollars than sense, have a saying. “If it can’t hang, it can’t stay” as they beat the hell out of it. Meanwhile, I’m still over here working with my ol Ferd 4630, that just gets serviced every year. Whether it needs it or not lol.
@@HomesteadBandwagon well, I can’t afford fancy new tractors every couple of years. And unnecessary debt is stupid. So when I invest in a car, truck, tractor, or trailer, I also invest in the tools and equipment to maintain them. Simple things like a grease gun and simple wrenches go a long way on an older tractor. And it only takes a few minutes to check fluids and grease things up every dozen hours or so.
This one video by itself just made me decide I do not want an ls. But seeing how flimsy that loader bucket and frame are is a huge red flag. But I will say the stuff you showed are really good points of things not to do to any tractor. Great video
What about lifting the front axle while trying to push something in 4 wheel drive? If you suddenly drop the front by lowering the bucket you run the risk of shock loading and breaking the axle.
Eh… box scraper ripped off my 3way due to a hidden rock; broke the pin mount for the 3way bar on older Kioti on the cast iron housing. Not sure I consider box scraper that much safer then back scraping with front bucket. Tend to back scrape with bucket mostly flat now. Currently fixed with JB-weld and carbon fiber Matt; holding up (sketchy). Otherwise its try to weld cast iron (ugh) or replace entire rear housing. Front scraping with bucket extended = not sure I’d even try that with my case580.
@@HomesteadBandwagon on the kioti 2001 lk3054; might not be true, no expert though. I'd have to replace entire rear differential housing to fix that pin mount for the 3-way linkage. Looks like a major jobby job. Welding the monster cast-iron hunk makes me cringe; last thing i want to do is make that housing brittle and then break again and now into a fluid leak. If it was just the linkage or pins = agreed. Going guess newer stuff has better shear in 3 way (maybe?) and can take a solid hit without ripping mounting or bolt on "ears" for pins on 3way.
Yep...I agree.........use a little common sense with equipment. The right tool for the job. Loaders aren't meant to be dozier blades. Good video, and helpful.
There is an joke going around about ironworkers. Put an ironworker in a room with 3 steel balls, an hour later he had broke one , lost one and had one in his lunch box. Moral of the story if it can be screw up, somebody eill do it😂. Im including myself also.
Everybody is an expert….. the only thing that was said that’s 100% true is that….. anything thing can be destroyed. I’ve been around farming operations & heavy construction operations for 40 years and counting and I have never seen a loader torn up as you talk about! Truth is 90% of all compact tractor owners are doing task that their tractors were not sized or built to do and complain when they tear the equipment up….. the real problem isn’t the loader design….. it’s the novice operators that cause all the issues period.
We're hiring mecanics at my shop. Come on down and you can see all the destruction for yourself. Green, orange, blue and red tractors- none of them are safe from the End User
@@HomesteadBandwagonI have some questions about mt-240 I would like to put a stump wrecker on it but don't want to ruin the loader just looking for some advice thanks for your help
@@BobLuger I haven't ever used one. The ones I've seen keep the load pretty centered when digging, so that's good. I'd just keep an eye on your frame and make sure it isn't twisting while using the stump bucket. The loaders are designed to dig a few inches under the soil, so just take 'er easy and slow. It's a loooong process digging out stumps no matter what you use!
Great video, I especially liked the Swiss army knife reference. I tell my boys a tractor is a Swiss army knife a ctl or skid steer is a multi tool. Also your tractor may kinda look like a backhoe but it ain't. Also I am not pointing fingers at anyone, cause I understand you do with what you have.
I currently have a LS MT 3 52 HST and I am looking for a third function kit. The LS kits that I have seen on TH-cam definitely have the better control handles. What do you install after market third function kits or the LS? Which is better. I’m assuming the LS kit is more expensive but don’t know since I haven’t been able to find them for sale on line.
We tend to make our own kits for the LS machines. Haven't had very good luck getting the factory ones lately, but there are some decent DIY kits out there, from what some customers have told me
this makes me think getting a "tooth bar" for my bucket is probably not 'the best idea'-- making me more likely to try to dig with the loader rather than the frame mounted backhoe.
Tooth bars are really a great tool. As long as you're keeping the digging relatively shallow on each pass and not trying to bust up rocks, I'll bet you'd do fine!
lol I work my tractor like a rented mule and will continue to do so. You can do a lot with a tractor if you apply just a modest amount of common sense.
Twice I bent my main loader rams using it fully in the up position and pushing on a tree branch trying to break it off. I can't believe it took me two times at $400 ($800 total) bucks to learn my lesson. I could have boughten 4 chainsaws at that price.
I use my ls mt235 like a bulldozer all the time and have not had any issues though I know not to over do it. Stump come out with the backhoe and I grade with a box blade and clear snow with 6 feet blower.. No problems at all. I Love this tractor (after doing the tractor hacks... search youtube - ls tractor hacks)
All those tips are important and will damage an economy brand quicker that a premium brand tractor like John Deere or Kubota.. Economy brands don't like to admit this but there are reasons that the economy brands cost less and and it is not just labor, shipping costs & profits...
Its funny my new mt468c bucket/loader arms aren't near as strong as my old 70s international 2500. Could corner a stump and pick the rear tires up and no flex from the bucket/arms.
@@HomesteadBandwagon would still be in use if not for the transmission going out, 67hp gas but only 2wd. I will say the new 68 HP 4x4 can do a heck of a lot more pulling without needing a ballast of sorts on the back, always had to have the 8ft brush hog on the back if I needed to do anything heavy. Once I fluid fill the rear tires on the 468 I'll be able to do even more, have some pretty good slopes easily 30° I've already taken it on and it did well.
Some machines are built for a bit of extra abuse. Just notice what tractors are purchased by rental companies. You see a lot of Kubota B26, Kubota L47, and Yanmar SA424/425 machines. All of those are built like tanks.
Generally speaking, all loaders for agricultural tractors are garbage!!! Back in the seventies my dad bought his forth Massey Ferguson tractor and had the dealership install the industrial loader on that agricultural tractor! It bolted up to the tractor just like the agricultural loader would but they had to make a few small modifications on the hood of the tractor to make it fit! The first three Massey Ferguson that my dad bought were industrial tractors. This last Massey Ferguson that he bought he wanted the features that only came on the ag tractor with the exception of wanting to get the industrial loader on it because he did lots of loader work with it on industrial job sites!!! This is also a 60 hp tractor! His earlier Massey Ferguson tractors were only 40 hp! It worked very well but it looks strange because the tractor was red and gray and the loader was yellow! And the industrial loader was a lot beefier and stronger!!!
Since these are common ways people have always used the equipment, should it not be the case that the machine is built to meet the customers needs rather than scolding them for misusing it?
@@HomesteadBandwagon I've never read that warning. But, I've also never heard of anyone trying. It's definitely not a common usage. But all the "wrong ways of using" loaders that are shown are absolutely common. They're so common you made video about it. Which, I guess it's a good thing that you did so that people can choose different equipment if they can. But, these loaders are a lot of money and people use them to do everything. So, my statement still seems like a good idea. And I understand that you don't build them, so this isn't necessary aimed at you. Still. Instead of saying that all of those usages are not what the machine can do, maybe they should be made to fit the needs of the consumer. That's what tools are made for.
Just thinking out loud here....but if you had a scraper blade or sawtooth blade on the back of the bucket, could you safely backdrag with the curl rams completly withdrawn into the cylinders?
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Just bought my first tractor a few days ago; an LS357. Still figuring it all out, but glad I came across your video.
Great tractor! I'm sure it'll be a blast to own!
Thanks. I've made all the mistakes you mentioned but luckily hadn't damage my tractor (yet). Now I know better.
Good info. This should be required viewing for all who buy or operate a tractor. These things aren't always obvious to a newbie. I made the mistake once of using the 4x4 to drive forward while the backhoe bucket was on a stump (looked to be very loose and about to come out, just needed a little more power to pull it out). Big mistake. I did get the stump out, but I also bent the cylinder rod on the dipper stick. When the rods/cylinders are extended, they are vulnerable to any back pressure put on them.
I have a John Deere compact 1790 I think?. It's a good little tractor. It's a 4WD 28hp. I have broken the pinion gears in the front axle 2 times. those gears are $500 a set! Not sure why the teeth break, but it usually breaks when I was digging/scrapping gravel sand out of our wash. I finally realized it's a small farm tractor with a bucket, it isn't a "construction" tractor. It's really for cleaning out horse and pig stalls, tilling a small garden maybe, piles of grass. Bucket only lifts 1000 pounds. I use mine a lot for digging scrapping and pallet forking. I would rather have a case 4WD construction tractor with 90-100hp. There is a difference in tractors! Get the tractor for the job. When your new on a ranch you think a tractor is a tractor. I've learned a lot about features and expectations of different types and manufacturers. Great video! enjoyed and learned something new! Thanks.
I think a lot of dealers don't properly match tractors to customers. If my customers want construction equipment, I refer them to where they can get construction equipment. Compact tractors are, in reality, light-to-medium duty ag equipment. It's a big difference
My poor tractor😅🤕 I have made all of these mistakes. I will be investing in a box scraper now. Thank you for your helpful video. 🤝🤙
I do kinda bone headed stuff all the time, but I think if a fella backs off a little when they're doing something sketchy, it'll avoid a lot of problems
When scraping with the bucket nose down like that (forward or backward), the cylinder is extended all the way which makes it much weaker. If you can do most of your force movement with everything "tucked" and pulled in, like you're saying, People will have a much better time.
Also, 23 hours on on my 25s and i didn't know about side/angled torsion and its likely effects. Thank you for saving me a $20,000 tractor. or at the very least a loader frame.
Great video! I watched to see if i could learn something new and realized my dad did a great job of teaching me how to properly use a loader.
Thank you for pointing out these things we are doing without thinking. My LS tractor does everything I ask of it but I never thought about the abuse I'm putting it thru.
These tractors really put up with a lot. I'm not rich, so I guess I like being a little more gentle with my equipment. Can't afford to have everything busted when I'm hoping to retire!
Reading some of these comments reinforces my decision of buying a new tractor as opposed to one used by some mechanical abuser. I will take your advice in trying to keep my tractor out of the dealer's repair shop.
Finally a video where somebody gets it...👍 Now this! is a great video for all of those first time tractor owners.. you and I have the same respect for equipment well done
Glad you enjoyed it!
That vertical scrapping with the bucket always confused me, caught my son doing that with mine. If you look at the edge of the bucket when its on the ground you actually scrape better with a very slight tip forward. Imagine a fillet knife, your using the cutting edge to cut the ice/grass/whatever off the hard surface. You dont get deli meat by dragging your knife edge vertically across the meat. For back dragging i use the rear of the bucket on the ground and actually tip the blade up, my bucket has a flat spot on the back that works pretty well. Or again, just a slight tip forward to pull back material so i can scoop it up. The corner hooks for a bucket should be put on at an angle toward the center of the blade edge. Set the hook, hook a chain, draw it to the center of the bucket and weld it into place. This reminds you not to do an off center lift with one single corner hook and avoids those bending/twisting damages to your loader. Most compact buckets cant handle a single hook in the center, they will tear out of the bucket unless you add reinforcements across the top of the bucket itself. 3x3 or 4x4 angle iron 1/4” thick across the top will hold the hook in the center and avoid tear outs but you still can’t pull with them, the limit is the quicktach “feet”, they will twist and bend really bad.
Just got a tractor last week and man I'm glad I ran across your video for the 2nd half of information.
Good video. I have a JD 1025R. One of the handiest attachments I have is a 4ft box blade. The most important thing to keep on hand is patience. You can do a lot with a sub-compact tractor, but it takes longer than with a “real” tractor.
Good review….I listened to an old time operator who welded hooks on my bucket…he said to place 3. One in center for single chain lifts and 2 over support mounts near the loader arm positions for double chain lifting (like a longer log etc). I had to have em and haven’t use those yet.
Thanks for the video just bought a tractor and realized I was doing some stuff wrong thanks for educating me.
As a mechanic on dump trucks, loaders, excavators, backhoe, and pickups I can say your video is 100% correct
I font have a tractor all I gave us a John deere x330 mower and I don't really want a electric front loader atxwill break faster than a hydraulic loader, plus it only luftd 4 ibches
I think we had one of those in the shop recently - an electric loader is cool in theory, but I've never seen one that works well!
Absolutely the best info here. After my 1025 and 3038 having been used in wrong capacity for loader I won't make these mistakes on my 4044M. Avoid the pitfalls to damages to the loader components. Thanks for the update
I work as a tractor mechanic, but for bigger tractors. I really liked this video.
Good lecture, really stable camera work.
Always good putting yourself into the mind of the customer. I never really thought about all the ways they can damage the loaders.
My list of ways these things have been damaged is a looooong one. Folks get pretty creative when it comes to breaking stuff!
I used to work on fighter jets. If you don't think those pilots torque the frame of the jet, I've got a bridge that's for sale.
Maybe you can tell me what happened to my old Ford 4000 ? It has a loader on the front and the 2 control levers are mounted on the control valves that's bolted to the frame..the frame actually has the hydraulic fluid tank in it and this setup has a large suction hose and a small high pressure hose that both screw into a single remote pump that runs off the engines crankshaft. I was lifting some fairly heavy pieces off a large tree trunk that I had chainsawed off.. I went to move the tractor getting ready to attach the chain I had around the trunk piece and one of the control valve levers seal blew and was leaking hydraulic fluid out as the engine was running..the loader raised to its maximum height and stayed there until I shut the engine off..then the loader came down slowly...now I can't get the loader to go up anymore and thinking it damaged the 2 bigger lift hydraulic cylinders..maybe bypassing internally ?
I see no leaks on the 2 large lift cylinders but these are way bigger than the 2 smaller MAXIM branded bucket cylinders...anyone here have any ideas ? I dread having to remove these 2 big cylinders !
@@rosskrause3926
From what you describe the hydralic control block is damaged. Cylinders are likely ok. Maybe wrong words, English is not my own language.
@fruitloops3718 how much?
Great video packed with excellent information; thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Recently stumbled onto your channel... had a few chuckles during the video. The bucket hook placement in particular was a good one.🙄 Having spent my entire 45+ year working career as a heavy equipment operator (btw a sub compact tractor owner as well) I can assure you that you are indeed correct in claiming that there are an infinite number of creative ways to destroy equipment. Be it a home, small farm setting or industrial job site the principles you elude to are the same.... the equipment used and capabilities of same, however, are vastly different. Even so I have seen heavy duty, well designed industrial equipment and/or components severely damaged or routinely destroyed by ignoring the very basic principles you outline in your video.
It never fails to amaze me how much abuse these machines will put up with and how surprised folks are when repeated abuse results in damage
Very helpful information for a newb Tractor owner. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
To be fair... this is an LS tractor. It is a bit more fragile than other brands. Excellent tips, none-the-less!
Not as tough as those Case IH and New Holland tractors, for sure! 😜
@@HomesteadBandwagon I see what you did there ;)
Love the videos, new into the tractor world. Priceless information for people like me with no one to teach them.
All I've learned from this video is that new loaders are made of glass. I've seen most of the things in this video detailed in old tractor manuals as part of the operating instructions (Not in the 'do nots' section, either, in the 'do' section), and to boot my loader has not only factory chain hooks on the corners of the bucket, but the main pins for the boom are off-center, so you can walk it around to different positions, including so that one side is higher than the other, or further forward than the other. To me breaking things like described in this video are less of a sign of misuse, and more of a sign of underequipment.
That's impressive. Which old tractors are you referring to? We work on lots of 50+ year old machines, and the modern equivalents beat the old loaders hands-down in every category
@@HomesteadBandwagon My specific loader with the chain hooks and off-center pins is a JD 1010, in fairness it is an industrial model, but I believe the ag model was equipped with the same. The manuals I'm referencing were for a '60s-ish Farmall and an aftermarket loader for a '50s John Deere 70.
@@gearsnstuff7330 yeah. Definitely talking HD machines and not compact tractors with quick disconnects on them
My old Massey Ferguson has been around for 40 years and still runs great. I've been doing almost everything he said not to do. They new shit is pretty but ain't worth what they cost
Been doing it wrong for 35 years. Watched every operator do it wrong also. Basically the new tractors are made to break. Paint them pink and put cup holders on them. 50 k wheelbarrows. If I can't dig a ditch or back drag rocks. Or dig under and lift out sidewalk slabs then it's over. Panzy tractors like most of the next generation. Thanks for sharing.
All good advice. That said, I think manufacturers are ignoring an addressable market by not having "heavy" versions of their machines. A lot of people would pay the premium for a compact tractor that qualified as heavy equipment.
Thanks for the info. I want to take care of my LS MT357. Yes, they cost a pretty penny.
You got to learn the new people. I'm here to be learned. I leave learned. I'm learned now. Thanks
I'm getting my tractor soon.
Matching the right loader based on HP is about the most important thing you can do. I remember the JD 245 loaders being used on everything from 2150 (50 HP) up to 2955 (105 HP). Needless to say the 245 did not hold up well to the 2755- 2955 tractors. But I have had one on my 2350 MFWD (62 HP) for over 20 years and I have not had an issue. The bucket is a bent up rusty pile of crap, but the loader is tight and I have never changed a pin or bushing. I can't say that I have ever saw an LS tractor before, I will assume it is along the price/ quality of a Branson or Kioti. Not knocking any brand, but just remember they can sell their heavy metal for cheaper 'cause their metal ain't nowhere near what old school steel was.
Thanks man! Just bought a case 585 with a loader today.
You're gonna have some fun!
Really good advise, well explained, thanks now i know what not to do when i get my 4 wheel loader.
Great video with some very useful advice, couldn't help wondering how did you bend the canopy?
I got a little too friendly with a tree...
I never thought about these but my loader is bluit a fair bit different any way so that's probably why i haven't torn it up for context its full homemade loader that on day i was pulling fence post up with it and one had 3feet of concrete around it and i didn't even notice it wqs stiff till i saw the tires go flat and bust my rim
Im looking to buy an LS. Thank you for the tips, it will be my first tractor ever. My neighbor does all the things you mentioned with his tractor. Never really thought about it but it makes sense. And I like your videos, keep up the good work
What model are you looking at?
@@HomesteadBandwagon MT357PCT/PCTC. I don't know what the abbreviations mean and i don't understand the 2 different transmission. I was going to get a cab one. But i don't think for my use its worth the cost.
The 57 is a great machine. Plenty of power. If a cab is even CLOSE to being in your budget, get it. You will be thanking yourself for many years to come. The 2 transmissions would be a manual or a hydrostatic. The manual will get you more power, but can be a pain if you're doing lots of loader work or working in confined spaces
@@HomesteadBandwagon Thank you for the advice. I appreciate it!
I have a MT2 25S just got it in February this year. Oh my .. I love it ! Also my 1st tractor
Thanks for the great tips
My uncle came back from the war with a bad case of Floppy Bucket Syndrome. Was never quite the same guy.
They're not designed to exert downward pressure or to be used like a bulldozer. What's so hard to understand about that? Great video. I learned a lot. 🚜👍🏻
Thank you for the tips I'm actually looking at buying the L S 240 model in a few weeks
Heck of a tractor! I'm constantly impressed by how much their loaders lift.
Appreciate it. I’ll be getting my first tractor in a couple of months and have just been educated.
Whatcha gonna get?
Thank you this is very educational for new tractor owners.
As a new tractor owner. Thanks. I would have done 2 of these 3 things.
that is why I had a full sub frame assembly added to my Compact tractor. The Sub frame is for the backhoe attachment that was a 3 point now is a four pin connection and the sub frame goes from the front drive assembly, Ties into the loader assemble and comes out past the rear drive assemble. Cost 1500.00 usd.
Hey man, as a person with a newly acquired tractor (1966 Case 930 CK), this info is so helpful! I have subscribed!
Any insight on the right way to run hydraulics for adding a loader, without tying up the rear remotes? I can't seem to find that anywhere. Do I need to add a front hydraulic pump?
Anyway, great video! Thanks!
Good tips. This is off topic but I noticed your LS loader looks very similar to some of the Kioti loaders (specifically the KL2610 and KL4030C), at least the detachable portion. The only difference I notice is your arms are straight along the top rather than curved. Looking at the LS LL3110 and LL3300, they may use the same curved arms. Perhaps they're made in the same Korean factory, or maybe Kioti sometimes buys from LS (KL4030 vs KL4030C for example).
From what I understand, there are two korean companies making loaders and backhoes for Kioti and LS. So there's definitely some crossover
Good points on tweaking from corners, but I have to call bs on the scraping. With a loader when you need to dig grade down, that is exactly how you would remove material to get the job done. Typically you would take a cut and level out the bucket to not just keep digging but there is going to always be force against anything opposite of the force applied. If it’s got a floppy bucket afterwards does not mean you used it wrong, it’s more than likely got some weaker cylinders and valves than they should have used on the equipment itself. I understand a lot of sub compact and compact owners are only going to be moving manure or some gravel, but sometimes you’re going to have to dig, and this just made me laugh.
There's a big line between digging and scraping. Digging soft material isn't going to hurt much, but scraping hard ground with your bucket cylinders completely flexed-out is just asking for trouble!
@@HomesteadBandwagon I could agree with that, especially with a smaller compact tractor. But there is a difference between going vertical with the bucket with the wheels off the ground and a slightly downward angle to take a ‘cut’ out. So I see your point. Depends on the approach, but just seems like you’d be trying to mess up something…
Thanks bud every little bit helps
Excellent video and well explained. As I watched it I thought about how many times someone in your shop must have said, "I can fix this loader, but I can't fix stupid." 🤣
Yessir. But as long as they're paying shop rate...
Funny thing about tractor dealers. They are more than happy to take your money, but neglect to tell you the things you should look out for when using. Then you inevitably break something, and its "not covered by warranty".
Man this video confuses me. I guess from a mechanics point of view I get it, but I'm one of those end users who try to make my tractor do everything and so far I've been successful at it, I guess. I have a Kioti compact tractor and for 7 years I have been doing land development type of work. It takes forever, but I will grade a driveway with it, make trails with it with all the stump work that involves, dig out hard packed clay and push up trees and root balls all while my tractor is groaning and straining. I do try to avoid leverage on the corners, but otherwise I never think about babying a tractor. Now it is fair to say I may be too rough on my tractor, but it seems to keep doing things it has always done.
This video seems to me to really dumb down tractors in general. Perhaps it will make me think a little more, but that is not a fiberglass bucket and those are not plastic hinge pins. That tractor should scrape at a 45 all day long? Maybe I got the right tractor for me, but 7 years in I'm still doing things normally a bulldozer would be doing because I can't afford a bull dozer. I just spend more time on a project than most, but I feel like I get the same job done eventually. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get a million kudzu roots out of the ground. Any ideas?
It's important to know the limitations of any machine you're operating. Tractors aren't cheap! I think there is a lot a tractor CAN do, but it's possible to put undue stress on your loader. The most important thing to pay attention to is putting stress on the loader cylinders when they are exposed. Extreme stress over time can cause premature failure. That being said, if an operator is tuned into their machine and not pushing it beyond its limits, that machine will last for many years. It's a balancing act between outright abuse and good old fashioned hard use
i rented a ls bucket/backhoe. it had floppy everything. i bought a bx23s because of the rental.. got the kubota almost the same price.
Great video hit on some great points, keep em coming sir
Thanks!
Whats the fix for the floppy bucket you referred to? I disconnected my loader to replace a clutch. After getting it back on, I had the floppy bucket which I figured was air in the system. You could eliminate most of it by raising the bucket and cycling the bucket. But the problem returned the next day.
That's a tough one! I'm not a hydraulic expert, by any means. Fluid bypassing the seals is a usual suspect, but what you're experiencing sounds a bit different. I'd wonder if you just have some junk in one of your quick connects that is causing a slight loss of pressure or a bad o-ring in one of them. Maybe disconnect them all and liberally apply a whole mess of wd40.
Feedback rod adjustment for the three point hitch will fix this
I was just checking the specs on the endline for the rotary girder
Just got my mt3 40 and have yet to use it, Thanks for the tips!
Have fun!
Some handy tips most of it is common sense. I've noticed most tractors in America just come with standard buckets in Australia most tractors are sold with 4in1 buckets .
I had a guy tell me that they were doing self-leveling loaders in Australia and Europe on sub-compact tractors. Is that accurate? I haven't seen many under 60HP out here
@@HomesteadBandwagon yes that is true even the 2610's are sold with self-leveling 4in1 ones here
@@roadstrom That's wild. Guess I'll just be stuck over here using 3rd world tractors...
I live in Scandinavia. I didn't even know that non leveling loaders existed. Ignorance is bliss.
@@smygandefisen6258 Do you have the option for a front mount PTO on compact tractors? That and a self leveling loader with a brush mower would make my life complete
I'll admit, I initially tried to backdrag with the loader bucket. I immediately noticed how it was forcing both cylinders to collapse. Whoa! That ain't right. Then I saw your video. Yeah, I was ignorant. Gotta remember, it's not a skid loader.
I still back drag with ours, but ya just gotta be mindful. It probably won't screw anything up right away, but years of misuse will result in some hefty bills down the line. If you're not bull-moosing it with the cylinders exposed, you should be good. You can always lay the bucket flat and drag a bit harder if ya need to.
Good information thanks
This was a really good episode. Very helpful.
Thanks! We'll figure out more ways to break stuff soon!
Recently got a tractor for the first time. Thanks for the info. Is there a good source of an extensive list of do's and do not's for new tractor owners. I'd like to minimize breakage not be proud of breakage.
Not that I've seen, but that's a real good idea. There's a lot of opinions on what "improper" usage is, but I'll bet a person could whip up a list of the basics to prevent obvious ways to wreck a machine. Your owners manual is always the best resource, of course, but it seems like they do leave some stufd out. I'll look into doing a more all-encompassing list!
Spot on… You also gave all the info anyone ever needs… Common sense applies… If you don’t understand basic levers and balance, you shouldn’t be in a tractor seat. If you want yer expensive tractor to last, don’t abuse it. There are proper and improper ways to use every tool, no matter how complex or simple it might be. Don’t try to use a tool you don’t know how to use. A loader is not a dozer, don’t over torque a square frame or you will regret it. This is all common sense stuff… Unfortunately, common sense is not that common.
Excellent, proper use is also safer use. Thanks
If you grapple material, it is almost impossible to get an equal amount of weight on each loader arm. Are you saying anyone with a grapple is mis-using the loader?
We use a grapple regularly. It is always best to keep a load relatively centered between the loader arms. This minimizes risk. If the load is so uneven that it twists your loader frame, it's uneven enough to tip your tractor. I'd certainly want to avoid doing both of those things
In Louisiana, the guys that have more dollars than sense, have a saying. “If it can’t hang, it can’t stay” as they beat the hell out of it. Meanwhile, I’m still over here working with my ol Ferd 4630, that just gets serviced every year. Whether it needs it or not lol.
It really doesn't take much effort to just take decent car of your stuff, does it?
@@HomesteadBandwagon well, I can’t afford fancy new tractors every couple of years. And unnecessary debt is stupid. So when I invest in a car, truck, tractor, or trailer, I also invest in the tools and equipment to maintain them. Simple things like a grease gun and simple wrenches go a long way on an older tractor. And it only takes a few minutes to check fluids and grease things up every dozen hours or so.
@@southerntrendkiller2632 heck yeah. I feel ya on that.
This one video by itself just made me decide I do not want an ls. But seeing how flimsy that loader bucket and frame are is a huge red flag. But I will say the stuff you showed are really good points of things not to do to any tractor. Great video
I'd recommend this loader over juat about ANY other similar loader in the same size. We haven't had a single one in the shop to date
I bent the hell out of my cylinders (both) by pushing with a rock grader attachment. Wish I would have watched this video when I first got my ME 355
What about lifting the front axle while trying to push something in 4 wheel drive? If you suddenly drop the front by lowering the bucket you run the risk of shock loading and breaking the axle.
Good point. Just had one in the shop that needed some repairs for slamming the front end into the ground repeatedly
And never, ever try to pull a stump with your canopy.
Eh… box scraper ripped off my 3way due to a hidden rock; broke the pin mount for the 3way bar on older Kioti on the cast iron housing. Not sure I consider box scraper that much safer then back scraping with front bucket. Tend to back scrape with bucket mostly flat now.
Currently fixed with JB-weld and carbon fiber Matt; holding up (sketchy). Otherwise its try to weld cast iron (ugh) or replace entire rear housing.
Front scraping with bucket extended = not sure I’d even try that with my case580.
It's MUCH cheaper to fix a 3 point than a twisted loader frame 💸
@@HomesteadBandwagon on the kioti 2001 lk3054; might not be true, no expert though.
I'd have to replace entire rear differential housing to fix that pin mount for the 3-way linkage. Looks like a major jobby job.
Welding the monster cast-iron hunk makes me cringe; last thing i want to do is make that housing brittle and then break again and now into a fluid leak.
If it was just the linkage or pins = agreed.
Going guess newer stuff has better shear in 3 way (maybe?) and can take a solid hit without ripping mounting or bolt on "ears" for pins on 3way.
Yep...I agree.........use a little common sense with equipment. The right tool for the job. Loaders aren't meant to be dozier blades. Good video, and helpful.
Is LS good to buy? I'm actually in process of tractor hunting? What is your opinion on john degree vs LS?
There is an joke going around about ironworkers. Put an ironworker in a room with 3 steel balls, an hour later he had broke one , lost one and had one in his lunch box. Moral of the story if it can be screw up, somebody eill do it😂. Im including myself also.
Everybody is an expert….. the only thing that was said that’s 100% true is that….. anything thing can be destroyed. I’ve been around farming operations & heavy construction operations for 40 years and counting and I have never seen a loader torn up as you talk about! Truth is 90% of all compact tractor owners are doing task that their tractors were not sized or built to do and complain when they tear the equipment up….. the real problem isn’t the loader design….. it’s the novice operators that cause all the issues period.
We're hiring mecanics at my shop. Come on down and you can see all the destruction for yourself. Green, orange, blue and red tractors- none of them are safe from the End User
Yep
@@HomesteadBandwagonI have some questions about mt-240 I would like to put a stump wrecker on it but don't want to ruin the loader just looking for some advice thanks for your help
@@BobLuger I haven't ever used one. The ones I've seen keep the load pretty centered when digging, so that's good. I'd just keep an eye on your frame and make sure it isn't twisting while using the stump bucket. The loaders are designed to dig a few inches under the soil, so just take 'er easy and slow. It's a loooong process digging out stumps no matter what you use!
I am looking at an LS tractor, does the LS MT342 have a float option on the loader?
Sure does!
Really informative video. I still want to put hooks on my bucket tho lol
If used properly, a good set of bucket hooks can really come in handy! The only thing that should stand in your way is fear and common sense!
Great video, I especially liked the Swiss army knife reference. I tell my boys a tractor is a Swiss army knife a ctl or skid steer is a multi tool.
Also your tractor may kinda look like a backhoe but it ain't.
Also I am not pointing fingers at anyone, cause I understand you do with what you have.
A backhoe or mini excavator is VERY different than a tractor with a backhoe attachment. It's a spade vs a jackhammer!
Good info, thanks. It makes sense.
What about a snow plow or pusher or dozer. Won't they blow out the cylinders?
thanks good info. new to tractor work so now i can break it on purpose
Heck yeah, buddy. I belive in you
I currently have a LS MT 3 52 HST and I am looking for a third function kit. The LS kits that I have seen on TH-cam definitely have the better control handles. What do you install after market third function kits or the LS? Which is better. I’m assuming the LS kit is more expensive but don’t know since I haven’t been able to find them for sale on line.
We tend to make our own kits for the LS machines. Haven't had very good luck getting the factory ones lately, but there are some decent DIY kits out there, from what some customers have told me
this makes me think getting a "tooth bar" for my bucket is probably not 'the best idea'-- making me more likely to try to dig with the loader rather than the frame mounted backhoe.
Tooth bars are really a great tool. As long as you're keeping the digging relatively shallow on each pass and not trying to bust up rocks, I'll bet you'd do fine!
[thank, you for youre video.👍 just, bought a case ck. 530 diesel Backhoe]👍
Basically, park your $30k tractor in the barn and don’t use or it will break unless you drive it like an old lady going to church on Sunday.
lol I work my tractor like a rented mule and will continue to do so. You can do a lot with a tractor if you apply just a modest amount of common sense.
😂
Just always remember it's a tractor not a bulldozer you can even damage a dozer if not used proper tractors are for light duty work.
Twice I bent my main loader rams using it fully in the up position and pushing on a tree branch trying to break it off. I can't believe it took me two times at $400 ($800 total) bucks to learn my lesson. I could have boughten 4 chainsaws at that price.
I use my ls mt235 like a bulldozer all the time and have not had any issues though I know not to over do it. Stump come out with the backhoe and I grade with a box blade and clear snow with 6 feet blower.. No problems at all. I Love this tractor (after doing the tractor hacks... search youtube - ls tractor hacks)
All those tips are important and will damage an economy brand quicker that a premium brand tractor like John Deere or Kubota.. Economy brands don't like to admit this but there are reasons that the economy brands cost less and and it is not just labor, shipping costs & profits...
question does the bucket hydrolics have a float position
sure does!
Its funny my new mt468c bucket/loader arms aren't near as strong as my old 70s international 2500. Could corner a stump and pick the rear tires up and no flex from the bucket/arms.
That International must have weighed almost 10000 lbs. They were beefy!
@@HomesteadBandwagon would still be in use if not for the transmission going out, 67hp gas but only 2wd. I will say the new 68 HP 4x4 can do a heck of a lot more pulling without needing a ballast of sorts on the back, always had to have the 8ft brush hog on the back if I needed to do anything heavy. Once I fluid fill the rear tires on the 468 I'll be able to do even more, have some pretty good slopes easily 30° I've already taken it on and it did well.
We've got one on the lot that I waited a year for. Pretty impressive so far. I might need to take it out for some testing...
Good info! Thanks!
One thing I've learned in life is to always use the proper tool for the job at hand.
LS does not put loader float function in my manuals. That would also help. A lot!!!
I was at a LS dealer today and the MT225S has a float function, he demonstrated it.
Some machines are built for a bit of extra abuse. Just notice what tractors are purchased by rental companies. You see a lot of Kubota B26, Kubota L47, and Yanmar SA424/425 machines. All of those are built like tanks.
That’s great info, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
great info...
Generally speaking, all loaders for agricultural tractors are garbage!!!
Back in the seventies my dad bought his forth Massey Ferguson tractor and had the dealership install the industrial loader on that agricultural tractor!
It bolted up to the tractor just like the agricultural loader would but they had to make a few small modifications on the hood of the tractor to make it fit!
The first three Massey Ferguson that my dad bought were industrial tractors.
This last Massey Ferguson that he bought he wanted the features that only came on the ag tractor with the exception of wanting to get the industrial loader on it because he did lots of loader work with it on industrial job sites!!!
This is also a 60 hp tractor! His earlier Massey Ferguson tractors were only 40 hp!
It worked very well but it looks strange because the tractor was red and gray and the loader was yellow!
And the industrial loader was a lot beefier and stronger!!!
thanks
Welcome
Good stuff. Noted. Thanks.
Good stuff
Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Since these are common ways people have always used the equipment, should it not be the case that the machine is built to meet the customers needs rather than scolding them for misusing it?
Lots of people use tools incorrectly. That's why lawn mowers have warnings against using them to trim hedges.
@@HomesteadBandwagon
I've never read that warning. But, I've also never heard of anyone trying. It's definitely not a common usage. But all the "wrong ways of using" loaders that are shown are absolutely common.
They're so common you made video about it. Which, I guess it's a good thing that you did so that people can choose different equipment if they can. But, these loaders are a lot of money and people use them to do everything. So, my statement still seems like a good idea.
And I understand that you don't build them, so this isn't necessary aimed at you. Still. Instead of saying that all of those usages are not what the machine can do, maybe they should be made to fit the needs of the consumer. That's what tools are made for.
Wow thanks for tips👍
Just thinking out loud here....but if you had a scraper blade or sawtooth blade on the back of the bucket, could you safely backdrag with the curl rams completly withdrawn into the cylinders?
I'll bet it would work pretty good! Might have to get out the welder and do some tinkering!