I’ve been operating for 55 years now. I learned from the best, my daddy. So many tractor dealers are just interested in the sale not you or your experience , expertise or lack of. Thanks Neil for taking the time to show new owner, operators how and how not to operate. Great job On the video.
Neil sure does have an easy-going confidence before the camera - He explains things real well and good to see from a business - Makes your business come across as open and honest and not corporate and aloof - Seems like you actually want our business. Good stuff and God bless.
Good instructions Neil. I've operated loaders since 1978. Though I'm not an expert I'm not too shabby either. You explained things very well and especially using the "Curl and Lift" technique. Good job. I always enjoy your work. Thanks Neil.
@@learnjcbskidsterchickensga7594 An old guy told me that you don't loan out your wife or your tractor, cause most likely, a rod is going to get thrown in either one 😁!
Dude you are the Best Salesmen I have had the pleasure of watching. I am hopefully going to be buying a new tractor soon and you have gave so much information on these tractors. Thanks for your info
I don't own a tractor, but I've got a good bit of time running skid-steers and wheel loaders in mines and this is pretty much spot-on. It does give me a bit of heartburn seeing the load entirely carried on the cylinders with that loader design. Skid-steers and the LHD I own have load blocks to put the entire payload on the frame, which is necessary when the machine's ROC is half its operating weight!
That is so, so true about the versatility of a loader. We use the forks on the 5320 (Deere) to load logs onto the car hauler trailer, then tow it home with full length logs on it, chainsaw into firewood length while standing straight up (not hunched over on the ground), then just roll them over onto the splitter, and the heaviest thing we ever have to lift in the whole process is the split pieces to stack them.
There is a lot of good information in these videos. I've been to other instructional videos for tractors, skid steers, etc, but your videos explain the do's and don't's whereas the other videos do not show what could happen like your videos do.
I’ve been looking into equipment for a while for where I work. I’m a groundskeeper, and we have one 68hp kubota, and one John Deere 4075e cab which I think are both too big for what we actually need. We do general dirt and gravel work, mulch, some mowing/bush hogging, trail work, turf work, plow snow if we get it, and dig water lines when we have leaks. I’m considering trading in both of those for the L47TLB. I like the smaller footprint for being in the woods and on turf, and the visibility it provides with the way it’s designed. We have a backhoe for the JD, but i never liked the way it operated along with JD’s many issues and I’m not a fan of the transmission. I’m trying to consolidate, and get what we actually need rather than what we would want.
You also demonstrated Mistake Number 9 - Putting an Unbalanced load in your bucket. On level ground that might not be an issue but turn the tractor around quickly or head into some cross terrain movement and as you demonstrated by loading one side of your bucket - you are setting up a potential problem - Even without transporting with the bucket up.
As Neil pointed out, not having enough rear ballast for the load weight on front easily causes losing rear wheel traction from the rear wheels being lifted partially or completely off the ground. It's not a good idea to do that, but if you are going to insist on doing that, putting your front wheels into 4-wheel drive, if you've got it, can allow you to move with your rear wheels losing traction. Using 4 wheel drive can get you out of nasty predicaments you foolishly got yourself into by overloading the front, but that can get you into worse predicaments. It's very dangerous to drive around powered by your front wheels with hardly any traction or no traction at all on your rear wheels. Hitting bumps can cause your rear end to rise high in the air and your front load to pitch down throwing you forward in your seat, or even out of it if you don't have your seatbelt on. It's also much easier to tip your tractor over with too much weight on front and your rear center of gravity high in the air. And if you're turning in that configuration, you're not doing your 4 wheel drive gears or steering mechanisms any favors by using them that much overloaded where you have the entire weight of your tractor plus your load on two small patches of rubber in front and on your front mechanisms. That's not how you tractor is designed to operate. But ... four wheel drive can help when you're overloaded in front. Be careful. Don't ask me how I know.
MOE here. i worked at J.I. Case in the experimental shop in the early 70s. i learned a lot from the old timers. as this was when rollover bars, falling object protection was coming into use. by rights you should have a seat belt on, and a hard hat. if you have no seat belt and the tractor flips you bounce around like a ping-pong ball. find some really good old timers to help you.
I bought an LS tractor about the equivalent size as the one in this video. I’ve never operated a tractor before so I am trying to learn all I can to be safe!
a bucket indicator is one of the easiest things to make and put on, if you're not using one you really should. a degree reader is superior and easy enough to mount too
95 B2400, loader on since new with the quick mounts.. only have had it off a handful of times in all these years. It IS the single most used and useful attachment on my tractor. It is a great feature to have when running the brush mower on a new unknown field, I set the bucket just off the grade while mowing, if something big is hidden I find it before the mower launches it or blow tires. Ballast, ballast, ballast!! AND SEATBELTS! A rollover can happen quick
A few more tips . . . 1. Do not proceed down a steep hill with a loaded bucket unless you are in 4 wheel drive. If you do not have 4 wheel drive don't go down the hill. 2. If when winter is just about over (March + - ?) when the ground is thawing, with mud on the upper portion of deep frozen ice in the soil below, just stay home and do not even think about going down that hill with any tractor (loader or trailer). My kids still talk about this adventure at family gatherings. 2. Do not snap roll back the bucket when in the fully up position to seat the load. Debris will fall all over the hood of the tractor and if they are rocks, will make a big negative impression on your hood. 3. No matter what do not stab the load with the tractor. Running into the mound of dirt will destroy the loader. Work the pile into submission, then lift.
Leveling the bucket, what do you think the two metal L brackets on the top of the bucket are for? They are the bucket levelers, they are parallel with the cutting edge.
I'm just learning to operate my new/old used L39Tlb. -- My info is to let the engine warm up at the lowest rpm it will run at until it hits 3 heat bars. The engine will pay you back in more years of service and less rebuilding. Got some flack on this but Low rpm warming before you go will let you go for a few years longer.
That same engine is used in refrigerator trucks, it goes between off and full throttle over and over its entire life. In that application they last 20000 hours, will way out last the rest of the tractor.
The loader is used often on my BX I hate to remove it for mowing. Over the years I learned how not to crash the bucket into trees and large rocks while mowing .
#9 digging into a hard pile at an angle or cornering into pile this is hard on the pins, arms and hydraulic system. work the face as flat as possible working one way and then picking up wind rows plus the face of your cut, much more efficient. the island of dirt at the end center the pile and it will be picked up easily. good job, russ
Another point is don't ram the machine into a pile like he did. Also dont push dirt with the bucket tilted all the way down you can brake your cylinders doing that.
michael cipperley wouldn’t agree with you Michael. Ok I will admit I am driving completely different tractors 110hp or a 170hp but when I am driving along the road I always lift the boom when at cross roads and going around turns in the narrow roads of Ireland
Lifting and driving with a Full Bucket load of piglets I want to keep them pretty high so that they won't want to jump out then when you squish them with your tires it gets real messy
The way you demonstrate "mistake number 8" is exactly what you don't want to do. You drive into the pile too fast and curl the bucket too quickly. It requires a lot more finesse that what you are doing. Also. If there is a pile of hard dirt, just simply back-drag material off the pile and than scoop it up with the loader. It will work like a charm, even with a much smaller machine.
In the video you did a corner lift with the bucket. I think it called a corner lift. For that machine it maybe fine. But lifting or forcing just the corner into material and lifting is bad or bad for lighter machines or can be bad over time? Seeing the demonstration of the curl and lift was useful. I may have missed some of the warnings related to my question.
Once you start to lift into the pile, don't you want to roll the bucket forward a little to maintain your cutting angle? Looked there like you were just pushing the bottom of the bucket into the cut face. Thanks for making the video though, I did learn something!
GREAT VIDEO. I never met Neil Messick at a Kubota Dealer Annual Meeting; nevertheless; I can say his family dealership is STRONG and TIGHT. Therefore, they earned my motto: " OH YEA ! "
Technique is the answer. I learnt on an old manual industrial tractor. Good hydraulic system..water in the wheels and NEVER ride the clutch. You choose a low gear ..engage diff lock..run slow into it and use the hydraulic power. I only used the clutch for starting stopping and raising but not for slipping to load
Modern tractors are too easy to run. Any fool can run one but that doesn't mean the fool can operate it correctly. You had to be smarter to run those old tractors and trucks.
One trick on getting your bucket level on the ground is to 1) put the loader in float, 2) let the bucket fall to the ground approximately flat, 3) slowly rock the curl/dump, 4) it's then easy to see the low point (i.e., the bucket is flat when the arms are at their low point).
What’s your opinion on, loading tractor tyres with fluids?. I personally say use counterweights. Anyway appreciate your opinion. And are warranty issues a problem with those who add fluids to tyres?.
I have a Kabota 7060 the throttle pedal seems like it sits off to the right with the loader bucket controllers it’s almost like you have to turn your foot out to push the throttle is there a fix for that. Thanks And great videos
the loader arms can shift weight from front to back. for example pulling a loaded wagon out of a drive onto the roadway. as the tractor leaves the dirt or gravel drive the agle of approach will change and suddenly the back tires will be spinning. lifting the loader up all the way will pit enough weight back so that you can leave the drive. of course lower the arms afterward
Love the videos also. Have a BX1880 with loader. Turf tires say 38psi. Manual says 17psi. Video says to go to top end of tire rating when using loader which would be 38. Parts guy at dealership says 25 psi. Any advice would help.
Just a little additional information.. Adding a skid steer quick attach will move your load 3 inches farther forward. This degrades the lift capacity about 300 lbs. Anything that move the load forward of the lower bucket hinge pin is not good!
Another problem with the latch pins not fully engaging on skidsteer attaches is that ONE will get seated BEHIND the plate with the hole in it and jam back there. It's a real pain to get it unstuck! Also, I had a coworker tear the counterweight off the 3pt on a case 560 loader (no hoe). They never got it fixed, and 6-8 month later the frint left tire flew off on me. All that front weight had worn through the axle (NOT 4wd) and they wound up having to replace both axles!!
I’ve never had a problem of my 2501 lifting double the lift capacity...I’d be happy if it just lifted rated capacity - rating at the pin means less real work
Hi Neil Great videos, keep it up. Question, with the new hydrostatic pedals linked to the throttle engine speed, what happens if you have a mower on the pto at 540 when you slow down to turn? Does the mower stop cutting? Would make a good video Michael
I see a lot of people spinning their tractor's tires to get that last ounce of dirt. Let people know about the law of diminishing return. Is that last ounce of dirt worth the increased tire wear?
My Kubota Backhoe refuses to take grease into the lower pivot fitting. I cannot tell if it is taking grease as the fitting seems to be clogged. I have repositioned the backhoe in all 4 positions. any ideas?
I’ve been operating for 55 years now. I learned from the best, my daddy. So many tractor dealers are just interested in the sale not you or your experience , expertise or lack of. Thanks Neil for taking the time to show new owner, operators how and how not to operate. Great job On the video.
Neil sure does have an easy-going confidence before the camera - He explains things real well and good to see from a business - Makes your business come across as open and honest and not corporate and aloof - Seems like you actually want our business.
Good stuff and God bless.
Being a new tractor owner, I've learned so much from your videos. Thank you!!
Ditto that.👍
Good instructions Neil. I've operated loaders since 1978. Though I'm not an expert I'm not too shabby either. You explained things very well and especially using the "Curl and Lift" technique. Good job. I always enjoy your work. Thanks Neil.
Mistake number one, loaning out your tractor to friends
My cousin bought in with me so I could not loan skiddy out.
Or even worse... family 🤦♂️
Old farmer told me he always said "let me get my hat and go with you"
@@learnjcbskidsterchickensga7594 An old guy told me that you don't loan out your wife or your tractor, cause most likely, a rod is going to get thrown in either one 😁!
Great comment! Same goes for your chainsaw...
If your just about done leveling the dirt or stones back drag with a full bucket ,the added weight will help immensely.
Dude you are the Best Salesmen I have had the pleasure of watching. I am hopefully going to be buying a new tractor soon and you have gave so much information on these tractors. Thanks for your info
I just bought the L47. That machine is an absolute beast. Great video Neil!!
what did it cost?
@@Ramdodge582 53k with the 3 point and 1% for 72 months.
Great vid. Every homeowner should watch this at the start of every season.
Classic "You're doing it wrong!" video.
Thanks Niel.
We needed that. 😁👍
I don't own a tractor, but I've got a good bit of time running skid-steers and wheel loaders in mines and this is pretty much spot-on. It does give me a bit of heartburn seeing the load entirely carried on the cylinders with that loader design. Skid-steers and the LHD I own have load blocks to put the entire payload on the frame, which is necessary when the machine's ROC is half its operating weight!
I've had my kabota 2620 for about 7 years now, and always learning techniques from your videos. Thanks and keep up the great service
That is so, so true about the versatility of a loader. We use the forks on the 5320 (Deere) to load logs onto the car hauler trailer, then tow it home with full length logs on it, chainsaw into firewood length while standing straight up (not hunched over on the ground), then just roll them over onto the splitter, and the heaviest thing we ever have to lift in the whole process is the split pieces to stack them.
Great video even for someone without a Kubota
Just got our tractor man and ur videos get to the point. Keep up the good work. Thanks man.
There is a lot of good information in these videos. I've been to other instructional videos for tractors, skid steers, etc, but your videos explain the do's and don't's whereas the other videos do not show what could happen like your videos do.
I’ve been looking into equipment for a while for where I work. I’m a groundskeeper, and we have one 68hp kubota, and one John Deere 4075e cab which I think are both too big for what we actually need. We do general dirt and gravel work, mulch, some mowing/bush hogging, trail work, turf work, plow snow if we get it, and dig water lines when we have leaks. I’m considering trading in both of those for the L47TLB. I like the smaller footprint for being in the woods and on turf, and the visibility it provides with the way it’s designed. We have a backhoe for the JD, but i never liked the way it operated along with JD’s many issues and I’m not a fan of the transmission. I’m trying to consolidate, and get what we actually need rather than what we would want.
Good advice! And clues about how tractors need to be completely redesigned to meet modern reality.
You also demonstrated Mistake Number 9 - Putting an Unbalanced load in your bucket. On level ground that might not be an issue but turn the tractor around quickly or head into some cross terrain movement and as you demonstrated by loading one side of your bucket - you are setting up a potential problem - Even without transporting with the bucket up.
As Neil pointed out, not having enough rear ballast for the load weight on front easily causes losing rear wheel traction from the rear wheels being lifted partially or completely off the ground. It's not a good idea to do that, but if you are going to insist on doing that, putting your front wheels into 4-wheel drive, if you've got it, can allow you to move with your rear wheels losing traction. Using 4 wheel drive can get you out of nasty predicaments you foolishly got yourself into by overloading the front, but that can get you into worse predicaments. It's very dangerous to drive around powered by your front wheels with hardly any traction or no traction at all on your rear wheels. Hitting bumps can cause your rear end to rise high in the air and your front load to pitch down throwing you forward in your seat, or even out of it if you don't have your seatbelt on. It's also much easier to tip your tractor over with too much weight on front and your rear center of gravity high in the air. And if you're turning in that configuration, you're not doing your 4 wheel drive gears or steering mechanisms any favors by using them that much overloaded where you have the entire weight of your tractor plus your load on two small patches of rubber in front and on your front mechanisms. That's not how you tractor is designed to operate.
But ... four wheel drive can help when you're overloaded in front.
Be careful. Don't ask me how I know.
Aw hell, moving 2x2x6 concrete blocks with the old 555b, we'd extend the hoe and balance on the front tires.
MOE here. i worked at J.I. Case in the experimental shop in the early 70s. i learned a lot from the old timers. as this was when rollover bars, falling object protection was coming into use. by rights you should have a seat belt on, and a hard hat. if you have no seat belt and the tractor flips you bounce around like a ping-pong ball. find some really good old timers to help you.
Are you doing another season of Always sunny in Philadelphia?
Neil, thank you for the tips. Very instructive !
I bought an LS tractor about the equivalent size as the one in this video. I’ve never operated a tractor before so I am trying to learn all I can to be safe!
a bucket indicator is one of the easiest things to make and put on, if you're not using one you really should. a degree reader is superior and easy enough to mount too
I live in Washington, Maine and agree with you. Idiots are in the government! !
95 B2400, loader on since new with the quick mounts.. only have had it off a handful of times in all these years. It IS the single most used and useful attachment on my tractor. It is a great feature to have when running the brush mower on a new unknown field, I set the bucket just off the grade while mowing, if something big is hidden I find it before the mower launches it or blow tires.
Ballast, ballast, ballast!! AND SEATBELTS! A rollover can happen quick
Would like to see you and Dennis and Charlie do a video together. Sweet Dee could join too.
A few more tips . . .
1. Do not proceed down a steep hill with a loaded bucket unless you are in 4 wheel drive. If you do not have 4 wheel drive don't go down the hill.
2. If when winter is just about over (March + - ?) when the ground is thawing, with mud on the upper portion of deep frozen ice in the soil below, just stay home and do not even think about going down that hill with any tractor (loader or trailer). My kids still talk about this adventure at family gatherings.
2. Do not snap roll back the bucket when in the fully up position to seat the load. Debris will fall all over the hood of the tractor and if they are rocks, will make a big negative impression on your hood.
3. No matter what do not stab the load with the tractor. Running into the mound of dirt will destroy the loader. Work the pile into submission, then lift.
I just bought a new Mx5200. I learned a couple of things that will help me do a better job.
Lol is it bad i sing along to the Messicks song? Lol wooohooo Neil is back!
Leveling the bucket, what do you think the two metal L brackets on the top of the bucket are for? They are the bucket levelers, they are parallel with the cutting edge.
Great video and tons of links in the description -- except for a link to the video on back dragging mentioned in this video. 🙈
Just subscribed to your channel. I've watched this video several times and it helps each time. Thanks for the great material.
I'm just learning to operate my new/old used L39Tlb. -- My info is to let the engine warm up at the lowest rpm it will run at until it hits 3 heat bars. The engine will pay you back in more years of service and less rebuilding. Got some flack on this but Low rpm warming before you go will let you go for a few years longer.
That same engine is used in refrigerator trucks, it goes between off and full throttle over and over its entire life. In that application they last 20000 hours, will way out last the rest of the tractor.
This was very informative. Thank you.
The loader is used often on my BX I hate to remove it for mowing. Over the years I learned how not to crash the bucket into trees and large rocks while mowing .
Do yall have a video on backhoe attachments?
#9 digging into a hard pile at an angle or cornering into pile
this is hard on the pins, arms and hydraulic system. work the face as flat as possible working one way and then picking up wind rows plus the face of your cut, much more efficient. the island of dirt at the end center the pile and it will be picked up easily. good job, russ
Thanks. Fluid and very helpful.
Drove a forklift professionally for forty years. Understanding the Stability Pyramid is just as important using a tractor.
Another point is don't ram the machine into a pile like he did. Also dont push dirt with the bucket tilted all the way down you can brake your cylinders doing that.
NEVER EVER TRAVEL WITH THE BOOM IN THE AIR PERIOD AND IF U DO U WILL EVENTUALLY GET URSELF INTO TROUBLE
michael cipperley wouldn’t agree with you Michael. Ok I will admit I am driving completely different tractors 110hp or a 170hp but when I am driving along the road I always lift the boom when at cross roads and going around turns in the narrow roads of Ireland
Lifting and driving with a Full Bucket load of piglets I want to keep them pretty high so that they won't want to jump out then when you squish them with your tires it gets real messy
The way you demonstrate "mistake number 8" is exactly what you don't want to do. You drive into the pile too fast and curl the bucket too quickly. It requires a lot more finesse that what you are doing. Also. If there is a pile of hard dirt, just simply back-drag material off the pile and than scoop it up with the loader. It will work like a charm, even with a much smaller machine.
I totally agree. Very good point. Plus, that helps put a more level load in the bucket.
I personally believe you can easily tip over a tractor with an empty raised loader...all you need is turning on a slight slope.
In the video you did a corner lift with the bucket. I think it called a corner lift. For that machine it maybe fine. But lifting or forcing just the corner into material and lifting is bad or bad for lighter machines or can be bad over time?
Seeing the demonstration of the curl and lift was useful. I may have missed some of the warnings related to my question.
Very informative. Thank you. I just got my first tractor.
Once you start to lift into the pile, don't you want to roll the bucket forward a little to maintain your cutting angle? Looked there like you were just pushing the bottom of the bucket into the cut face. Thanks for making the video though, I did learn something!
I installed the bucket from a Cat 998 on my loader. It works terrible.
I like big buckets and I cannot lie!
GREAT VIDEO. I never met Neil Messick at a Kubota Dealer Annual Meeting; nevertheless; I can say his family dealership is STRONG and TIGHT. Therefore, they earned my motto: " OH YEA ! "
Technique is the answer. I learnt on an old manual industrial tractor. Good hydraulic system..water in the wheels and NEVER ride the clutch. You choose a low gear ..engage diff lock..run slow into it and use the hydraulic power. I only used the clutch for starting stopping and raising but not for slipping to load
Modern tractors are too easy to run. Any fool can run one but that doesn't mean the fool can operate it correctly. You had to be smarter to run those old tractors and trucks.
The loops on the top of the bucket are level indicators. If your eye can't tell when they're level glue a bulls-eye bubble level on one of them.
Outstanding!
Always buy a front end loader.
He reminds me of Mac from Its always sunny in Philadelphia
Damn. That’s spot on! I will never take him seriously again!😳
I'm heading to the gym to oil down dudes.
Country Mac?
thumbs up for perfect audio ! :-)
K
Even snow can be overweight. There's a HUGE difference in snow weight when it falls at 30 degrees or 20 degrees.
No link to backdragging video?!
I'd also mention keeping the front wheels on the ground when back dragging or loading. Wheels in the air aren't doing any work.
And float takes care of that
those flat sheet metal triangles ON the top bucket edge are visual reference to level of the bottom of the bucket
One trick on getting your bucket level on the ground is to 1) put the loader in float, 2) let the bucket fall to the ground approximately flat, 3) slowly rock the curl/dump, 4) it's then easy to see the low point (i.e., the bucket is flat when the arms are at their low point).
#1 Mistake..NOT Reading the operators manual
Thanks Neil. Great video. So very helpful for us new guys. Cheers!
What’s your opinion on, loading tractor tyres with fluids?. I personally say use counterweights. Anyway appreciate your opinion.
And are warranty issues a problem with those who add fluids to tyres?.
Traveling with the loader in the air is just crazy.
I worked for a company that had a no spin-policy, spin the wheels while loading ( pick up your check). No exceptions. And you My friend are fired!!
I have a Kabota 7060 the throttle pedal seems like it sits off to the right with the loader bucket controllers it’s almost like you have to turn your foot out to push the throttle is there a fix for that. Thanks And great videos
the loader arms can shift weight from front to back. for example pulling a loaded wagon out of a drive onto the roadway. as the tractor leaves the dirt or gravel drive the agle of approach will change and suddenly the back tires will be spinning. lifting the loader up all the way will pit enough weight back so that you can leave the drive. of course lower the arms afterward
Love the videos also. Have a BX1880 with loader. Turf tires say 38psi. Manual says 17psi. Video says to go to top end of tire rating when using loader which would be 38. Parts guy at dealership says 25 psi. Any advice would help.
Always clear advise
💥great tips!
Keep on tractoring!
the two Angle Brackets at the top of the bucket are usually parallel to the floor of the bucket.
The top of the end of the bucket on things bigger than fancy toys.
Awesome video!
Just a little additional information.. Adding a skid steer quick attach will move your load 3 inches farther forward. This degrades the lift capacity about 300 lbs. Anything that move the load forward of the lower bucket hinge pin is not good!
Your right, but it's not nearly 300lbs. I have several videos testing this with load cells
@@MessicksEquip I work in the forklit industry and that is around the average for a hang on side shifter attachment.
Do an operation mistakes with the backhoe!
Strive to make all operations smooth. Smooth is control.
Great video! Cheers mate!!
Tip 9.. Kubota (for many many years) welded those brackets behind the top side of the bucket showing (parallel).. It's even labelled
Never buy a tractor without a loader,it will cost you more down the road.
I ain't gonna put a loader on my tillage tractor.
Love you work, keep it up.
In love with that L47
Another problem with the latch pins not fully engaging on skidsteer attaches is that ONE will get seated BEHIND the plate with the hole in it and jam back there. It's a real pain to get it unstuck!
Also, I had a coworker tear the counterweight off the 3pt on a case 560 loader (no hoe). They never got it fixed, and 6-8 month later the frint left tire flew off on me. All that front weight had worn through the axle (NOT 4wd) and they wound up having to replace both axles!!
I’ve never had a problem of my 2501 lifting double the lift capacity...I’d be happy if it just lifted rated capacity - rating at the pin means less real work
Great Video! Well explained! Thanks!
Another great video. Thank you for all your videos, I've learned a lot from you.
Are there attachments that throw snow instead of pushing it?
Yea counter weight is mega important. My sub compact loader is useless without something on the back. Wheel spin is the main problem
Great videos! Women drive tractors too.
Great stuff Neil !
Thanks new subscriber!
When I plowed snow with my dad’s 988 Cat we put a coal bucket on it just for snow removal. Obviously we didn’t use it for gravel. :)
Thanks Neil
Hi Neil
Great videos, keep it up.
Question, with the new hydrostatic pedals linked to the throttle engine speed, what happens if you have a mower on the pto at 540 when you slow down to turn? Does the mower stop cutting?
Would make a good video
Michael
You'd turn off auto hst to decouple them
Messick's thanks, I didn’t know that was possible
Michael
Great tips! Thank you!
I see a lot of people spinning their tractor's tires to get that last ounce of dirt. Let people know about the law of diminishing return. Is that last ounce of dirt worth the increased tire wear?
Hits the pile way too fast,use lowest gear and curl back with out spinning tires. Also never park the machine with implements left in the air.
Great vid Neil !
On back drag. ...weld on a sharp heavy angle iron across the back to create a good edge with bucket level.
Look behind you when backing up.
My mistake is i bought one thinking it will make me a farmer n women would like me
My Kubota Backhoe refuses to take grease into the lower pivot fitting. I cannot tell if it is taking grease as the fitting seems to be clogged. I have repositioned the backhoe in all 4 positions. any ideas?