@@CheeseBae Hi Justin! They are the same type of product, just depends on where you live. In the US they're called sealers, elsewhere they're called primers.
Thanks for the video. I keep doing the Natural sealer and I always go back to see the differences because I am afraid is not what the client will want .
Great question! We get this one a lot! Would highly recommend a sealer for a couple reasons. When applied to bare wood, the finish will soak into the wood. This means that your first coat is virtually useless in protecting the floor. Because sealers are designed to (you guessed it) seal the wood, it creates the perfect foundation for the finish to stay on top of the flooring and protect it. It's cheaper than finish too, so you'll save some money rather than doing extra finish coats. The sealer also prevents other issues like panelization, white lines, and tannin pull. Hope that helps! We dive deeper into this in another video here: th-cam.com/video/6tG8I1EhjRM/w-d-xo.html.
can i just use the bona amber seal on sanded hardwood and call it done? Is this a stain or a clear coat with pigment in it? Im looking for a one step stain and poly for my freshly sanded hardwood floors
So. If I use classic seal. I need wait a couple hours and then I can apply the first coat of finish. And after that, the next day. Light buff/ screening and apply the second coat of finish. Correct?
I recently used Classic Seal but needed to buff the sealer because there was significant grain raise after applying the sealer on white oak floors. The next step was a nightmare as little clumps of black epoxy balls stuck to the floor and quickly the sanding screens on the buffing tool. It took a very long time to remove the epoxy gum or 'boogers' as stated in the video. The video suggests applying the first layer of the topcoat as soon as the sealer is dry. Will I be able to adequately sand off the grain raise after letting the first topcoat thoroughly dry without gumming up the sanding screens? My top seal is Bona Mega. Also if I switch to NaturalSeal, is the gumming up from sanding the dry sealer not an issue since it is a newer formulation?
I have the exact same question. The pigmented sealers don't gum up, and in another Bona video they recommend abraiding after applying natural seal because it helps even out the color.
We are looking to finish pine floors in our 150 year old historic home. We are hoping to have a warmer tone to the floors without ending up with an orange look that can happen with an oil based sealer. Wondering if Amberseal would be a good option if we want a more noticeable colour or if we should consider a stain instead Thanks.
Are you familiar with the Bona White? If so what's the difference in final finish color between Bona White verse Bona Nordicseal? Can I get the same results using each? We want this project as white as can be with a hint grain showing through, the main floor is White Oak. Technically Bona classifies Bona white as a primer not a sealer on the website, wondering how they each differ in the final color. I would like to try the Bona White on an upcoming inlay flooring project and having a tough time finding where to purchase it.
Because of how the products are designed, you'll most likely be better off using a natural sealer designed for furniture. Plus it may save you some money too!
Have any questions about these products? Let us know in the comments!
What's the difference between Bona's sealers and primers?
@@CheeseBae Hi Justin! They are the same type of product, just depends on where you live. In the US they're called sealers, elsewhere they're called primers.
@@rwsupplydesign gotcha, so an English guy said he was using the classic primer, but that's just the classic sealer with a different label?
@@CheeseBae I believe so!
Thanks - helpful info especially the not needing sealer abrasion during the "hot coating" time period. God bless
Thanks for the video. I keep doing the Natural sealer and I always go back to see the differences because I am afraid is not what the client will want .
Happy this could help! Good idea to keep an eye on the flooring and make sure your client is liking the results.
Bona intense seal make stain look darker , right ?
We applied Bona High traffic HD. 2 days later moving a couch caused some scratches in my perfect floor. Any idea how to fix the scratches?
Can I use a Bona Traffic Topcoat on bare wood, without applying a sealer first?
Great question! We get this one a lot! Would highly recommend a sealer for a couple reasons. When applied to bare wood, the finish will soak into the wood. This means that your first coat is virtually useless in protecting the floor. Because sealers are designed to (you guessed it) seal the wood, it creates the perfect foundation for the finish to stay on top of the flooring and protect it. It's cheaper than finish too, so you'll save some money rather than doing extra finish coats. The sealer also prevents other issues like panelization, white lines, and tannin pull. Hope that helps! We dive deeper into this in another video here: th-cam.com/video/6tG8I1EhjRM/w-d-xo.html.
can i just use the bona amber seal on sanded hardwood and call it done? Is this a stain or a clear coat with pigment in it? Im looking for a one step stain and poly for my freshly sanded hardwood floors
So. If I use classic seal. I need wait a couple hours and then I can apply the first coat of finish. And after that, the next day. Light buff/ screening and apply the second coat of finish. Correct?
Great question! We talk more about applying finish after the sealer in this video: th-cam.com/video/6tG8I1EhjRM/w-d-xo.html
One more video - Bona has an in-depth training video that shows how to best use their sealers and finishes: th-cam.com/video/RRPCTp8KvaU/w-d-xo.html
I recently used Classic Seal but needed to buff the sealer because there was significant grain raise after applying the sealer on white oak floors. The next step was a nightmare as little clumps of black epoxy balls stuck to the floor and quickly the sanding screens on the buffing tool. It took a very long time to remove the epoxy gum or 'boogers' as stated in the video. The video suggests applying the first layer of the topcoat as soon as the sealer is dry. Will I be able to adequately sand off the grain raise after letting the first topcoat thoroughly dry without gumming up the sanding screens? My top seal is Bona Mega. Also if I switch to NaturalSeal, is the gumming up from sanding the dry sealer not an issue since it is a newer formulation?
I have the exact same question. The pigmented sealers don't gum up, and in another Bona video they recommend abraiding after applying natural seal because it helps even out the color.
Very helpful info thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Does Bona natural seal require two coats before applying the finish (Bona Traffic HD)?
do you recomend natuseal over stain... i just wach a video from bona that dont recomend clasis seal over stain...
We are looking to finish pine floors in our 150 year old historic home. We are hoping to have a warmer tone to the floors without ending up with an orange look that can happen with an oil based sealer. Wondering if Amberseal would be a good option if we want a more noticeable colour or if we should consider a stain instead
Thanks.
Good content guys👍
Using a natural or intense seal on dark stains ok? I just think that amber seal sort of changes the tones to slightly red
Are you familiar with the Bona White? If so what's the difference in final finish color between Bona White verse Bona Nordicseal? Can I get the same results using each?
We want this project as white as can be with a hint grain showing through, the main floor is White Oak. Technically Bona classifies Bona white as a primer not a sealer on the website, wondering how they each differ in the final color.
I would like to try the Bona White on an upcoming inlay flooring project and having a tough time finding where to purchase it.
Is it required to sand after using these sealers? I'm looking to sealer up a reclaimed stained dark wood floor to protect it from traffic and damage.
Can Bona Natural Seal be used on furniture?
Because of how the products are designed, you'll most likely be better off using a natural sealer designed for furniture. Plus it may save you some money too!
I love your videos! Can’t stop watching! But pretty please stop referencing only ‘guys’. A lot of women also finish floors 😊
Very true, thanks, Asiyah!
CLassic seal is not just 'blonde' but it's YELLOW. And if you have offwhite or white walls, it makes them look dingy.
You guys are confusing is bona seal a sealer or a water based polyurethane
In this video we're talking about Bona's sealers, so everything covered here is a water-based sealer, not a water-based polyurethane finish.
@@rwsupplydesign thanks ☺️
Parks pro seal is the best, never use a water based product, it will not last