As a professional hardwood installer for the most part everything was correct. Couple of things I noticed. First one was you went the same direction as your joist. Typically you would go opposite of your joist to help prevent rolls in your floor in the future. The staples can easily be taken up with 4ft concrete scraper so you don’t have get down and hit every single one with a prybar. If you use the scrape at the same time you pull up the padding most of the staples will stay in the padding. Where you started was fine but you could also have used a grooving bit in your router to groove out your existing finished wood and put a piece of spline or what we call slip tongue into it and connected directly into the existing. Also anyone not using full length boards you will want to pull a chalk line from the corners of the walls. This will give you a nice straight line to measure to and will ensure your floor stays straight. I typically come out about a foot to start my measurements from the corners because the corners are heavily padded with drywall compound. I then mark a 16” mark and go to the other end do the same, then chalk your line. Last thing when dealing with bowed boards I’ve read a lot of the comments and your was worked to but a faster way is to just drive a flathead screwdriver along the tongue and pry back, nail and pull your screwdriver out. All and all great video! I love all your videos and you actually inspire me to leave the flooring business to create my own woodworking business. Sorry for the lengthy comment lol, figured I could give a little advice for anyone reading them.
Fellow pro here and this is spot on! Always go across the floor joists for added stability. Also, we've always used roofing felt under the flooring to prevent squeaks of wood on wood. 15lb roofing felt works best since it's lighter and easier to work with, but the 30 lb will do. Also, for getting in warped boards, start on the left side, nail it in, and work your way down. The nails will hold it in place as you go so you don't have the board popping out on one side every time you pound in the other side 😂
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
You know, what I found super encouraging was seeing an ‘untouched’ room at the beginning, looking out into his finished hallway. It was a great reminder that even TH-cam guys are working one room at a time, and everything is a work in progress.
I did a DIY floor in our basement and I definitely had a gap around doorways that I would rather not have had. But you can easily solve that problem by selling your house and making it someone else’s floor!
Formerly having a business of installing all types of flooring for 25 years, i really didn't see anything "wrong". For a DIY kinda thing, it will be just fine. Your doorway transitions will actually help with expansion. Well done.
After 40+ years in commercial flooring I agree with George on your transition trim at the door. I would have done the closet opening as 2 pieces split in the middle of the opening where the little fingers you tapped in were attached to the 2 split pieces. But once your base boards are installed it will be fine.
I grew up getting dragged to job sites on weekends with my dad who started laying floors at 15. Video just brought back some good memories... and then there was the edge sander that caught fire, and thrown out a 3rd floor window. Good times. Love seeing your son in the videos! He is a character!
Putting down a moisture barrier will help with gaps and expanding/contracting. I always use roofing tar paper for my underlayment. It is waterproof and sticky to help keep boards in place over time. Also, when a board is slightly bowed, just put the power nailed right over the bow and whack it real hard with the rubber mallet. The force of that will close the gap and put the staple where it needs to be. Last thing would be to always try and glue where you cant staple. You still did a great job! Nice work!
Thanks for the video. Just a suggestion, my Dad would start at the hardest to cut. So he would start at the door, this way you make all the hard cuts and you have a full width board at the place where people walk the most. Then move into the closet, and the easy part is last the rest of the room leaving you a small piece at the end. High traffic zones always need full width boards. There is nothing wrong with the way you did the floor, my suggestion is there to make it easy for you the next time.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
For someone that doesn't do flooring much you did it 100% right. I have done alot of this kind of flooring, and right on beams, not on boards. And this is the right way to do it.
I am not an expert in flooring installation. I am however a professionally educated interior designer. What I can absolutely say is that you are awesome at being determined to tackle this type of project yourself. You have great knowledge of the machinery and tools you were using and you were very proactive with solving issues with ease. After all was said and done, the flooring looks absolutely amazing and is very esthetically pleasing! It also is a super great option for affordable flooring in these days and times! So thank you for this wonderful and affordable option that is durable and lovely looking!
Instead of using an expensive square to straighten the boards, you can screw a block down in front of the piece, then reverse the Rockler clamp you used earlier to push the flooring into place. Great job though! Thumbs up
Phil, you seem to actually know what you're talking about, which means you are way too qualified to be here. This is for doofus guys like me, trying to get some inspiration and courage up to handle small home repairs.
@@testdriver3146 I wish you best of luck on your home renovations! I really enjoy watching talented people work, and there is almost always something new to learn. For me, this video was a review for paint, while also getting entertainment value out of it.
Professional wood flooring installer for 37 years here. To straighten bowing boards I just take a big ol` screwdriver that you can buy for a buck at the big box store. You can take a scrap of flooring maybe 6 inches long, put the groove over the tongue, drive the screwdriver into the subfloor just in front of the block just enough to get a good bite, and lever the board back. Use your foot to hold the plate of nailer / stapler and use your free hand to use the mallet. After you do it a couple times the whole process takes about 10 seconds.
The recommendation here (I live in Norway) is to store the flooring in the house (preferably in the target room). Someone below recommends an under layer. Because you seem to be installing flooring in the shop foreman's room (on the second floor) another common practice is to add a sound deadening layer (multiple options are available available ranging from thin foams to 1cm thick fiberglass mats). Finally you can use screws instead of nails (using a similar jig). Another option for the thin last row problem is to glue it to the next to the last row segments before installation. Thankfully you didn't start on the subject of plank direction an room lighting direction.
I love your humor and also how honest you are about not having a clue what you're doing. That's my philosophy and it usually works out pretty well too. Good job. The floors look great!
When I get bowed boards I use a small piece of board, to protect the tongue. Nail a block to the subfloor/joist and use 2 wedges, hitting them both at the same time can force even the nasties board in place. I even 1"1/4 by 16" wide.
When we were young and just starting out we used that same pine. We just polyurethane it. We got so many compliments on that floor. It turned a beautiful color over the years. The house I live in now years later I have hardwood, got to say I miss the pine floors. Thanks for the video.
Turned out way better than I expected with being painted. One thing to note though is I did not see an air return in that room for your HVAC system. The reason the door had such a large gap is so that the air return you probably do have in a centralized location (hallway most likely) can draw the air out of that room under the door. If your transition piece eliminated the air gap entirely or severely reduced it then the air in that room won't get returned and you HVAC system won't properly work. What exactly will happen if the air doesn't get returned? That room is going to be humid. It might not feel all that uncomfortable to any of your guests that use it. And I'm guessing any guests you have aren't staying for an extended period of time. But humidity also can cause mold issues. Wood floor, humid air, black paint, black mold. You might not ever even know mold is on the floor because it's painted black. Might be something to look into with a kid in the house. You might consider a different transition piece, adding a return vent to the room, or the easiest thing you could probably do is take the door down and trim the bottom by a quarter inch so you've essentially added back the air gap for the HVAC return.
Jason, I really enjoy your videos. I am a software engineer with newly discovered passion for woodworking and fixing things around the house. While I am coding, I often have you video on one screen, and your narration is so great. It is like listening to a podcast. It keeps me in the zone, without being drawn out of my deep thought process. I wanted you to know that your style is a one of a kind. And at the same time I am learning great techniques and craftsmanship. And learning from your mistakes :) Thanks man.
The proper way to lay flooring is what you and the homeowner decide looks the best. Tbh finishing in the closet looks good you did a fine job for what you wanted. You're the one who has to live with it.
You might not be a pro floor installer, but you are one heck of a inspirational dude. You are the kind of guy one wants as a brother or neighbor. Thanks for your relaxing and yet fun videos.
I’m in the tile industry and I just tiled the stairs in my house (the rest of the upper floor is next). When we ripped up the carpet on the stairs, which we’ve had cleaned multiple times, it was so nasty. It collects everything, and we have so much dust in Nevada. I hate carpet as well. Great video!!!
Have installed 1,000's of square feet of hardwood flooring I would have to say you did a wonderful job. The only thing I do differently is add a layer of rosen paper between the hardwood and the subfloor. I was told many years ago it helps prevent squeaking. I have no clue if that is true or not, but since the gentleman that told.me that had been laying hardwood floors for 30 years. I didn't question him
While Rosen paper will help with squeaks, it is paper to use a tar paper or a newer product like aqua bar. Not only do they help with squeaks but it also acts as a moisture barrier
I dont know about USA but in europe if your laying flooring down in apartment building your required by law to put sound dampener under the flooring to stop stepping sounds echoing to lower apartment
I’ve done flooring for a little over a decade now and I’m currently flooring my parents house before the sell it, and honestly you’ve not done anything “wrong” at all, a little un orthodox maybe but hey that was a cool way to do a vent, I’ve done transitions the same way myself too but it looks great and if you ever sell the house the paint can be stripped to new wood too so no worries there! Love your videos
Quick tip for carpet removal - cheap roll of duct tape. Costs just a few bucks and makes the rolls so much easier to carry out, especially the padding.
Regardless of whether your method was exactly correct, you do a great job of explaining details, and the final result looks terrific. I really enjoy your videos!
I've laid a thousand floors. You did NOTHING "wrong"! Great job. We've been waiting for this one since last week's podcast. Love and appreciate all your hard work, keep it up my man!
@@JW-mx3qg naw, not a 'pro', but you can't nit pick a guy doing his own stuff. Everybody does things a Lil different. All in all he'll never have any problems from how he did it. Thanks for following burbon moth brother, we love his content and hope you do as well. Peace!
Too right. I discovered recently you can buy replacement chair castors which are essentially rubber rollerblade wheels. They're not perfect, but the amount of damage they do is tiny in comparison to the destruction caused by the hard plastic ones.
@@lisawintler-cox1641 The short answer to this is no. Rubio's monocoat is a wax and oil mixture. Paints do not stick very well to wax. So, if you put poly, latex, epoxy, or other film finish over the top, they will peel and flake off. If you scuff the surface of the monocoat, you could get a mechanical bond but then you'd have removed a lot of the monocoat. In all honesty, the monocoat is just as durable as pulyurethane. As an added benefit, you can repair it without refinishing the entire piece
This reminds me my first flooring job. Only difference is I stained the floor and then clear varnished it. In my view pine has beautiful grain pattern and I think paint hides it, but it my personal preference. Great job as usual. Floor looks great and thanks for sharing.
You're hilarious and a great teacher. I'm trying to start up a business in tiny home conversions and actually learn a lot from your channel. Thank you for being fun and informative!! :)
If you can learn anything from your son, it’s that we don’t have to wait until Halloween to don a costume and practice our bow staff skills. Other than that, great video. Who cares about mistakes? You’ve got some darn nice looking floors there!
the tail end where he installs the transition, reminds me of Rex Krueger's video about furniture making, back in the day, there was no high precision, they just did what they could to get the job done, and that's what he did with the transition, right or wrong, done is done
As a REAL professional wood TECH the first thing you should do is find the center of the room . Then measure to the wall to see where the last board will fit. Now is the time to adjust so you do not end up with a small strip along the wall.Next lay thew first board groove side lined up with the CENTER line and nail a temporary blocking board on the tongue side of the board. Next insert a spline into the groove and cleat nail it in place.. NOW you have a balanced floor and will end up with the same board widths along both walls.. Also you will be nailing tongue sides toward both walls making it easier when you get close to the wall. As for under lament I like to use a 30 lb roofing felt as it tends to give the floor a soft sound rather than a hard rapping one when being walked on. Oh yes another benefit is that termites do not like the taste of the felt nor the smell and will not try to eat through it. I have been installing and restoring wood floors for 55 plus years and as a former instructor old school is still way better than new school.
Way late to the party, but I can't figure out why I didn't think to do the transition your way. I actually used one chunk of 2x4, cut it to height, rabbeted out both sides to leave the "stem" in the middle, then dropped the single T shaped piece into the gap. your way is SO MUCH easier. Every time I watch one of your videos, I learn a better and/or easier way to do something. And that is why I keep watching. Well, that and your charming personality, of course.
An easy way to pull up the tack strip for the carpet: Use a long-handled spade (shovel that comes to a point, like the suit in American playing cards). Wedge it under the tack strip and push down on the handle to pop it right up
For not knowing what your doing you did a better job then some pros I know. I only have 7 years experience but I would’ve started by the door avoiding that small strip right by the door. And any time I have to make a new starting row, like in hallways or bedrooms, the first 2 or so rows I glue down. If I can’t use the pneumatic stapler/nailer it gets glue.
Instead of trying to get by with full width boards at the edges (even if the math seems to work out), it is better to split them. You don't want to risk having edge boards thinner than 2 inches.
I think pine is just a bit too soft. I also manage rentals so I need a super durable floor. I also use red rosin paper under the flooring. Depending on the traffic patterns I put in a bit of glue between some areas. Lastly, use your clamp for boards that are warped. Flip over the ends of the clamps and pry against the opposite wall or fastened down board. Save the wood peckers!
Did a great job as always. I've done commercial flooring myself and you pretty much knocked it right out of the park. Never wear knee pads, they only get in the way.
4" scraper works well to remove staples & loosen alot of the tackstrip..and a jigsaw works great for cutting heat vents in place..for tight spots where large nailer wont work I use smaller air nailer or glue the last few pieces.. great job
Looks good bud! As an NWFA member, I figured Id add in some tips First, always use a urethane based adhesive like PL in any areas youre going to top nail. Like the starting row, and coming up to a wall. Second, best to use an underlayment like aquabar B to keep moisture from wicking upward. Lastly, you MUST leave more room for expansion coming up to walls, especially with pine. Fortunately, for you, it was the height of the hot/wet summer so thats about as "big" as those boards will get, so in this case, youll be good. Just good habit. Cool project, and it looks great!
Best way to get all the staples out of the floor is to use a painters multi tool. Just glide it across the floor and most of the staples pop out. 10 times faster than trying to pop them out any other way.
Looks very nice, when i did my 1400sf house with oak i asked some older house builders for advice, they told me to try and run the boards away from you when you enter a room, it makes the room look larger they told me, as luck would have it i could do that for 90% of my house, my bathroom and laundry/utility rooms i did in tile.
Love the work. Great job! We laid out and nailed our wood floors as well but I started with a t- nailer that was not pneumatic. One of those you have to double or triple hit the hammer to fully drive the nail. Most labor intensive part of our house build but its a labor of love.
And in a few years, your dumb ass will be pissed because that floor that you nailed down, instead of screwed down will sound like the 3 stooges built it.
Good job Mr.B_Moth. I always take the opportunity to screw down the subfloor and then put down a layer of rosin paper or 15# felt help reduce future creaks and squeaks.I’m more of a “pickled finish” than an “ebonized” fan but that is of course why they make paint in different colors.
Everyone keeps saying rosin paper to reduce squeaks but it just seems like the squeaks would come from subfloor flexing over the joists, not the pine over the subfloor. Which is why you take the opportunity to screw the subfloor down if needed. He obviously didn't need to....?
You did good man. I did this same pine for my entire house (1,850 sf) all closets, bathrooms, laundry, etc. are pine. I got mine from Lumber Liquidators. Pretty much used the same techniques as you did and it turned out awesome.
Quick tips. 1. Start at the door since that's the part people see and you will want a full solid piece and not little pieces. 2. Run a chalk line on the tongue side of your first door piece and pop the line the length of the room. Check for room squareness. Lay you're boards on the line and nail them with trim gun. Then you can take off with the power nailer. 3. When you have boards that are bowed just hammer a big flat head screwdriver into your subfloor and pry and close the gap. Then you can nail 4. Underlayment prevents board on board squeaks and noises. 5. If you don't mind cleaning up after with a vacuum you can cut your boards in the room to save time and energy 6. Knee pads are a must lol Good job on the floor though
In the area where the floor comes right up against the wall, cut the drywall away. That will give you a half inch gap that the floor can expand into if needed.
I'm a DIYer myself, You rocked the project, sir. I love the black floors but would be worried about how the dust would show up telling me to get the Swiffer out. Overall you did a fine job just as you always do. Thanks for sharing. Felix
You didn't do the trim... How am I supposed to sleep tonight? Also since the old bed was scrapped, you might as well do a video making a new one, right?? 😏
Seems to me i usually install t&g flooring perpendicular to the floor framing. Usually the runs end up going in the long dimension of the room..thats the new england way anyhow...
Thanks friend, this video helped me a lot, I want to learn more about putting hardwood floors. I always watch all your videos greetings and infinite blessings.
I lay floors for a living and you pretty much did it right. The only thing that I would recommend is always use wax paper under your flooring Engineered or solid wood
We are about to lay our first hardwood floor, and I am having a beginner fright - so many things can go wrong. Thank you for this, Jason, and thanks to all the pros who commented with useful tips. We hired installers to lay wood floors in our dining room (yes, we had carpet in the dinning room!), but to save money, we removed trim, carpet, all the staples and nails ourselves. The pros laid the 10' x 12' room in 2.5 hours. Then we installed and painted the trim ourselves. It seemed like we did all the difficult work, lol.
I’m not a carpenter and have never done this kind of work at all. But I do have a couple of questions, first do you sand the floor after removing the carpet? And second are their any sealants for the floor that you would put down. Before you put down the new flooring? The sealant is for those who live in climates that get really cold for an extended period of time. And help keep moisture at a little to none. Finally awesome video and I enjoy your content.
As a professional hardwood installer for the most part everything was correct. Couple of things I noticed. First one was you went the same direction as your joist. Typically you would go opposite of your joist to help prevent rolls in your floor in the future. The staples can easily be taken up with 4ft concrete scraper so you don’t have get down and hit every single one with a prybar. If you use the scrape at the same time you pull up the padding most of the staples will stay in the padding. Where you started was fine but you could also have used a grooving bit in your router to groove out your existing finished wood and put a piece of spline or what we call slip tongue into it and connected directly into the existing. Also anyone not using full length boards you will want to pull a chalk line from the corners of the walls. This will give you a nice straight line to measure to and will ensure your floor stays straight. I typically come out about a foot to start my measurements from the corners because the corners are heavily padded with drywall compound. I then mark a 16” mark and go to the other end do the same, then chalk your line. Last thing when dealing with bowed boards I’ve read a lot of the comments and your was worked to but a faster way is to just drive a flathead screwdriver along the tongue and pry back, nail and pull your screwdriver out. All and all great video! I love all your videos and you actually inspire me to leave the flooring business to create my own woodworking business. Sorry for the lengthy comment lol, figured I could give a little advice for anyone reading them.
Do you put down some kind of underlayment? Like tarpaper or something of that nature?
Thanks for the feedback and all the best for your new business!
@@blucheer8743 We use Red Rosin Paper under the floor. We find it helps reduce squeaks and such.
Fellow pro here and this is spot on! Always go across the floor joists for added stability. Also, we've always used roofing felt under the flooring to prevent squeaks of wood on wood. 15lb roofing felt works best since it's lighter and easier to work with, but the 30 lb will do.
Also, for getting in warped boards, start on the left side, nail it in, and work your way down. The nails will hold it in place as you go so you don't have the board popping out on one side every time you pound in the other side 😂
Follow up tip: that mallet you're using to hit the nailer also works great for pounding in stubborn boards!
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
You know, what I found super encouraging was seeing an ‘untouched’ room at the beginning, looking out into his finished hallway. It was a great reminder that even TH-cam guys are working one room at a time, and everything is a work in progress.
Needed this!!!
I did a DIY floor in our basement and I definitely had a gap around doorways that I would rather not have had. But you can easily solve that problem by selling your house and making it someone else’s floor!
Hahah! My go-to is caulk...lots and lots of caulk 🙃🙃🙃🤣
@@MekareP That's what she sai... wait,
That's what you said! 😁😆
@@tony2tone884 HEY-OOOOO
oh man, this hits too close to home lol
@@MekareP little caulk a little paint, will make a carpenter what he ain’t!
Formerly having a business of installing all types of flooring for 25 years, i really didn't see anything "wrong". For a DIY kinda thing, it will be just fine. Your doorway transitions will actually help with expansion. Well done.
@Johnny Bananas hahahahahahahahha
@Johnny Bananas he does!🙂 not that it matters .....
After 40+ years in commercial flooring I agree with George on your transition trim at the door. I would have done the closet opening as 2 pieces split in the middle of the opening where the little fingers you tapped in were attached to the 2 split pieces. But once your base boards are installed it will be fine.
Do you lay a padding under wood floors like this?
@@michaelgontarek7612 i would for comfort, wouldnt do any harm
Finally, someone who agrees with me about carpet! It's a filth sponge! Thanks for showing another option!
I grew up getting dragged to job sites on weekends with my dad who started laying floors at 15. Video just brought back some good memories... and then there was the edge sander that caught fire, and thrown out a 3rd floor window. Good times.
Love seeing your son in the videos! He is a character!
Nice…😃
Son? I thought that was the foreman?
Just gotta say, , ,
These are the most fun “masterclasses “ by someone who totally admits to not knowing what he’s doing- Great job 👏
Putting down a moisture barrier will help with gaps and expanding/contracting. I always use roofing tar paper for my underlayment. It is waterproof and sticky to help keep boards in place over time. Also, when a board is slightly bowed, just put the power nailed right over the bow and whack it real hard with the rubber mallet. The force of that will close the gap and put the staple where it needs to be. Last thing would be to always try and glue where you cant staple. You still did a great job! Nice work!
Thanks for the video.
Just a suggestion, my Dad would start at the hardest to cut. So he would start at the door, this way you make all the hard cuts and you have a full width board at the place where people walk the most. Then move into the closet, and the easy part is last the rest of the room leaving you a small piece at the end. High traffic zones always need full width boards.
There is nothing wrong with the way you did the floor, my suggestion is there to make it easy for you the next time.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
For someone that doesn't do flooring much you did it 100% right. I have done alot of this kind of flooring, and right on beams, not on boards. And this is the right way to do it.
I am not an expert in flooring installation. I am however a professionally educated interior designer. What I can absolutely say is that you are awesome at being determined to tackle this type of project yourself. You have great knowledge of the machinery and tools you were using and you were very proactive with solving issues with ease. After all was said and done, the flooring looks absolutely amazing and is very esthetically pleasing! It also is a super great option for affordable flooring in these days and times! So thank you for this wonderful and affordable option that is durable and lovely looking!
Instead of using an expensive square to straighten the boards, you can screw a block down in front of the piece, then reverse the Rockler clamp you used earlier to push the flooring into place. Great job though! Thumbs up
Phil, you seem to actually know what you're talking about, which means you are way too qualified to be here. This is for doofus guys like me, trying to get some inspiration and courage up to handle small home repairs.
@@testdriver3146 I wish you best of luck on your home renovations! I really enjoy watching talented people work, and there is almost always something new to learn. For me, this video was a review for paint, while also getting entertainment value out of it.
No, it must be a woodpecker square.
@@jeremyspecce well it's a good thing he made this video then, now I know!
@@testdriver3146 Kyoto
Professional wood flooring installer for 37 years here. To straighten bowing boards I just take a big ol` screwdriver that you can buy for a buck at the big box store. You can take a scrap of flooring maybe 6 inches long, put the groove over the tongue, drive the screwdriver into the subfloor just in front of the block just enough to get a good bite, and lever the board back. Use your foot to hold the plate of nailer / stapler and use your free hand to use the mallet.
After you do it a couple times the whole process takes about 10 seconds.
The recommendation here (I live in Norway) is to store the flooring in the house (preferably in the target room). Someone below recommends an under layer. Because you seem to be installing flooring in the shop foreman's room (on the second floor) another common practice is to add a sound deadening layer (multiple options are available available ranging from thin foams to 1cm thick fiberglass mats). Finally you can use screws instead of nails (using a similar jig). Another option for the thin last row problem is to glue it to the next to the last row segments before installation. Thankfully you didn't start on the subject of plank direction an room lighting direction.
I love your humor and also how honest you are about not having a clue what you're doing. That's my philosophy and it usually works out pretty well too. Good job. The floors look great!
When I get bowed boards I use a small piece of board, to protect the tongue. Nail a block to the subfloor/joist and use 2 wedges, hitting them both at the same time can force even the nasties board in place. I even 1"1/4 by 16" wide.
That’s the best method for face nailed wide plank. If using a nailer, a good solid hit will close the gap and deliver the nail or staple.
When we were young and just starting out we used that same pine. We just polyurethane it. We got so many compliments on that floor. It turned a beautiful color over the years. The house I live in now years later I have hardwood, got to say I miss the pine floors. Thanks for the video.
What product did you use to polyurethane it?
Looks really good. And now you have some additional projects - trim the room, closet organizer, closet doors, bed, etc
I have to admit you are very entertaining my wife and I are hooked watching your videos, funny, informative and entertaining. Keep up the great work.
Turned out way better than I expected with being painted. One thing to note though is I did not see an air return in that room for your HVAC system. The reason the door had such a large gap is so that the air return you probably do have in a centralized location (hallway most likely) can draw the air out of that room under the door. If your transition piece eliminated the air gap entirely or severely reduced it then the air in that room won't get returned and you HVAC system won't properly work. What exactly will happen if the air doesn't get returned? That room is going to be humid. It might not feel all that uncomfortable to any of your guests that use it. And I'm guessing any guests you have aren't staying for an extended period of time. But humidity also can cause mold issues. Wood floor, humid air, black paint, black mold. You might not ever even know mold is on the floor because it's painted black. Might be something to look into with a kid in the house. You might consider a different transition piece, adding a return vent to the room, or the easiest thing you could probably do is take the door down and trim the bottom by a quarter inch so you've essentially added back the air gap for the HVAC return.
Super glad I read this BEFORE I did my floor! Thx much.
Jason, I really enjoy your videos. I am a software engineer with newly discovered passion for woodworking and fixing things around the house. While I am coding, I often have you video on one screen, and your narration is so great. It is like listening to a podcast. It keeps me in the zone, without being drawn out of my deep thought process. I wanted you to know that your style is a one of a kind. And at the same time I am learning great techniques and craftsmanship. And learning from your mistakes :) Thanks man.
Another comment, I have to congratulate you on being the cover boy on Wood Shop News. also good for you with all the success. You worked hard for it.
Thanks 🙌🏻🙌🏻
The proper way to lay flooring is what you and the homeowner decide looks the best. Tbh finishing in the closet looks good you did a fine job for what you wanted. You're the one who has to live with it.
I have to give it to you: you nailed it.
You might not be a pro floor installer, but you are one heck of a inspirational dude. You are the kind of guy one wants as a brother or neighbor. Thanks for your relaxing and yet fun videos.
I’m in the tile industry and I just tiled the stairs in my house (the rest of the upper floor is next). When we ripped up the carpet on the stairs, which we’ve had cleaned multiple times, it was so nasty. It collects everything, and we have so much dust in Nevada. I hate carpet as well. Great video!!!
Hands down best woods craft man and teacher on youtube. On any thing online. Next is Finish carpentry TV. But still this guy has style.
Have installed 1,000's of square feet of hardwood flooring I would have to say you did a wonderful job. The only thing I do differently is add a layer of rosen paper between the hardwood and the subfloor. I was told many years ago it helps prevent squeaking. I have no clue if that is true or not, but since the gentleman that told.me that had been laying hardwood floors for 30 years. I didn't question him
While Rosen paper will help with squeaks, it is paper to use a tar paper or a newer product like aqua bar. Not only do they help with squeaks but it also acts as a moisture barrier
Tar paper for the win
I dont know about USA but in europe if your laying flooring down in apartment building your required by law to put sound dampener under the flooring to stop stepping sounds echoing to lower apartment
I’ve done flooring for a little over a decade now and I’m currently flooring my parents house before the sell it, and honestly you’ve not done anything “wrong” at all, a little un orthodox maybe but hey that was a cool way to do a vent, I’ve done transitions the same way myself too but it looks great and if you ever sell the house the paint can be stripped to new wood too so no worries there! Love your videos
Quick tip for carpet removal - cheap roll of duct tape. Costs just a few bucks and makes the rolls so much easier to carry out, especially the padding.
'why oh why did they like barn doors so much in the twenties'
- Lemonade Moth Woodworking, 2041
I love to watch people working, keep it up
I've sprayed, brushed and rolled hundreds of gallons of emerald urethane... fantastic product!
Nice work 🤙🏽
Regardless of whether your method was exactly correct, you do a great job of explaining details, and the final result looks terrific. I really enjoy your videos!
Never thought of a black wood floor, but man... It looks awesome!
I've laid a thousand floors. You did NOTHING "wrong"! Great job. We've been waiting for this one since last week's podcast. Love and appreciate all your hard work, keep it up my man!
Really? Thousand floors and nothing that stood out as wrong in this video? Then you are a ‘pro”..
@@JW-mx3qg naw, not a 'pro', but you can't nit pick a guy doing his own stuff. Everybody does things a Lil different. All in all he'll never have any problems from how he did it. Thanks for following burbon moth brother, we love his content and hope you do as well. Peace!
awesome...thanks dude...even a 65 year old woman remodeling or building a home could do this one.....great info.
I’m very impressed with the pine and paint holding up as well as it has, especially under a desk chair! Those are murder on floors!
Too right. I discovered recently you can buy replacement chair castors which are essentially rubber rollerblade wheels. They're not perfect, but the amount of damage they do is tiny in comparison to the destruction caused by the hard plastic ones.
Great looking floors. Congratulations on being on the cover of Woodshop News!
Saddened by the lack of Rubio Monocote Cotton White in this video.
That stuff is amazing. I used it for a table I did, and it worked out great.
Can you cover Rubio with polyurethane? I've been looking and not finding an answer for that.
@@lisawintler-cox1641 The short answer to this is no.
Rubio's monocoat is a wax and oil mixture. Paints do not stick very well to wax. So, if you put poly, latex, epoxy, or other film finish over the top, they will peel and flake off.
If you scuff the surface of the monocoat, you could get a mechanical bond but then you'd have removed a lot of the monocoat.
In all honesty, the monocoat is just as durable as pulyurethane. As an added benefit, you can repair it without refinishing the entire piece
🤣🤣🤣 It did feel incomplete without it being mentioned even once! 🤣
@@davidsweetman2221 Thanks for your reply. What happens when water is splashed on it or accidentally sits on it? Thinking kitchen.
This reminds me my first flooring job. Only difference is I stained the floor and then clear varnished it. In my view pine has beautiful grain pattern and I think paint hides it, but it my personal preference. Great job as usual. Floor looks great and thanks for sharing.
Your voice is a great baritone, easy to hear. You talk like someone trained to lecture, easy to follow.
You're hilarious and a great teacher. I'm trying to start up a business in tiny home conversions and actually learn a lot from your channel. Thank you for being fun and informative!! :)
Most important thing i learned is im not alone in hating carpet. Thanks for this we are redoing our floors soon.
If you can learn anything from your son, it’s that we don’t have to wait until Halloween to don a costume and practice our bow staff skills. Other than that, great video. Who cares about mistakes? You’ve got some darn nice looking floors there!
I'm @ 2:24... And all I can think of is how a family could have been blessed with a bedframe, lol.
Nice video, floors look great. 👌
the tail end where he installs the transition, reminds me of Rex Krueger's video about furniture making, back in the day, there was no high precision, they just did what they could to get the job done, and that's what he did with the transition, right or wrong, done is done
PRECISELY what I was seeking!!! That was, possibly, the worst demo-injury, Life-injury tale I've ever heard.
So you did go all the way to your shop, but still came back without the knee-pads?
As a REAL professional wood TECH the first thing you should do is find the center of the room . Then measure to the wall to see where the last board will fit. Now is the time to adjust so you do not end up with a small strip along the wall.Next lay thew first board groove side lined up with the CENTER line and nail a temporary blocking board on the tongue side of the board. Next insert a spline into the groove and cleat nail it in place.. NOW you have a balanced floor and will end up with the same board widths along both walls.. Also you will be nailing tongue sides toward both walls making it easier when you get close to the wall. As for under lament I like to use a 30 lb roofing felt as it tends to give the floor a soft sound rather than a hard rapping one when being walked on. Oh yes another benefit is that termites do not like the taste of the felt nor the smell and will not try to eat through it. I have been installing and restoring wood floors for 55 plus years and as a former instructor old school is still way better than new school.
Thanks
I do floors for a living and yes the up and down sucks. I try to squat most of the time, saves time getting up and down.
Proknees for the win buddy
I enjoyed the video. I did! 👍🏻I was flabbergasted by your skills. Floored, even. Don't leave us pining more too long for more.👏🏻👏🏻
“Once you get into a groove”
I saw what you did there… clever
What about "starting in the closet and working my way out"? Lmao
Way late to the party, but I can't figure out why I didn't think to do the transition your way. I actually used one chunk of 2x4, cut it to height, rabbeted out both sides to leave the "stem" in the middle, then dropped the single T shaped piece into the gap. your way is SO MUCH easier.
Every time I watch one of your videos, I learn a better and/or easier way to do something. And that is why I keep watching. Well, that and your charming personality, of course.
An easy way to pull up the tack strip for the carpet: Use a long-handled spade (shovel that comes to a point, like the suit in American playing cards). Wedge it under the tack strip and push down on the handle to pop it right up
Doesn't that bust up the concrete when the nails get pulled up? Did when I did it. Know a trick how to prevent that?
Did that once had a problem w/ it hopping up and jabbing the walls
For not knowing what your doing you did a better job then some pros I know. I only have 7 years experience but I would’ve started by the door avoiding that small strip right by the door. And any time I have to make a new starting row, like in hallways or bedrooms, the first 2 or so rows I glue down. If I can’t use the pneumatic stapler/nailer it gets glue.
I agree with you about carpeting, I too hate that stuff!
especially in the PNW, have no clue why people love carpet up here
GOOD NEWS!!! I didn't notice a single mistake :) Nice Job.
Instead of trying to get by with full width boards at the edges (even if the math seems to work out), it is better to split them. You don't want to risk having edge boards thinner than 2 inches.
Spent last month putting in flooring for the first time. Learned so much!
I think pine is just a bit too soft. I also manage rentals so I need a super durable floor.
I also use red rosin paper under the flooring.
Depending on the traffic patterns I put in a bit of glue between some areas.
Lastly, use your clamp for boards that are warped. Flip over the ends of the clamps and pry against the opposite wall or fastened down board. Save the wood peckers!
Did a great job as always. I've done commercial flooring myself and you pretty much knocked it right out of the park.
Never wear knee pads, they only get in the way.
Grab a sidewalk scraper to get those staples up! Way easier and you get to stand up! Looks great!
4" scraper works well to remove staples & loosen alot of the tackstrip..and a jigsaw works great for cutting heat vents in place..for tight spots where large nailer wont work I use smaller air nailer or glue the last few pieces.. great job
Love the cameo by "The Dog".
Looks good bud! As an NWFA member, I figured Id add in some tips First, always use a urethane based adhesive like PL in any areas youre going to top nail. Like the starting row, and coming up to a wall. Second, best to use an underlayment like aquabar B to keep moisture from wicking upward. Lastly, you MUST leave more room for expansion coming up to walls, especially with pine. Fortunately, for you, it was the height of the hot/wet summer so thats about as "big" as those boards will get, so in this case, youll be good. Just good habit. Cool project, and it looks great!
What does PL stand for?
Best way to get all the staples out of the floor is to use a painters multi tool. Just glide it across the floor and most of the staples pop out. 10 times faster than trying to pop them out any other way.
Looks very nice, when i did my 1400sf house with oak i asked some older house builders for advice, they told me to try and run the boards away from you when you enter a room, it makes the room look larger they told me, as luck would have it i could do that for 90% of my house, my bathroom and laundry/utility rooms i did in tile.
My guy keeps delivering videos for similar ideas/plans I'm already hatching, maybe it's time to visit the ol patreon
Love the work. Great job! We laid out and nailed our wood floors as well but I started with a t- nailer that was not pneumatic. One of those you have to double or triple hit the hammer to fully drive the nail. Most labor intensive part of our house build but its a labor of love.
And in a few years, your dumb ass will be pissed because that floor that you nailed down, instead of screwed down will sound like the 3 stooges built it.
Looks great and I really enjoyed watching. I myself will always take carpet over any solid flooring though
Good job Mr.B_Moth. I always take the opportunity to screw down the subfloor and then put down a layer of rosin paper or 15# felt help reduce future creaks and squeaks.I’m more of a “pickled finish” than an “ebonized” fan but that is of course why they make paint in different colors.
Everyone keeps saying rosin paper to reduce squeaks but it just seems like the squeaks would come from subfloor flexing over the joists, not the pine over the subfloor. Which is why you take the opportunity to screw the subfloor down if needed. He obviously didn't need to....?
You did good man. I did this same pine for my entire house (1,850 sf) all closets, bathrooms, laundry, etc. are pine. I got mine from Lumber Liquidators. Pretty much used the same techniques as you did and it turned out awesome.
Did you paint it or stain it?. If stain, what else did you put on it.?
Quick tips.
1. Start at the door since that's the part people see and you will want a full solid piece and not little pieces.
2. Run a chalk line on the tongue side of your first door piece and pop the line the length of the room. Check for room squareness. Lay you're boards on the line and nail them with trim gun. Then you can take off with the power nailer.
3. When you have boards that are bowed just hammer a big flat head screwdriver into your subfloor and pry and close the gap. Then you can nail
4. Underlayment prevents board on board squeaks and noises.
5. If you don't mind cleaning up after with a vacuum you can cut your boards in the room to save time and energy
6. Knee pads are a must lol
Good job on the floor though
In the area where the floor comes right up against the wall, cut the drywall away. That will give you a half inch gap that the floor can expand into if needed.
Nothing beats the beauty of real wood flooring, especially when it's pine!
I'm a DIYer myself, You rocked the project, sir. I love the black floors but would be worried about how the dust would show up telling me to get the Swiffer out. Overall you did a fine job just as you always do.
Thanks for sharing. Felix
Been a hardwood man for long time and you made my day 🤪keep huslin bro
I made transitions for our house on new floorings almost exactly the same way 😆 Glad to see my little idea was not totally horrible hahaha
Clever hack with the square!! Well done.
You didn't do the trim... How am I supposed to sleep tonight? Also since the old bed was scrapped, you might as well do a video making a new one, right?? 😏
This guy's commentary is gold.
Good job bud.
Word of advice for next time, rather than use an oscillating tool and measuring like crazy, I drilled a hole and used a flush trim bit for the vents.
Amen to your opinion on carpets!!
The guest bedroom cupboard is also where I keep the backbones of my enemies.
Those were actually from my neighbor. His dog kept pooping in my yard.
@@Bourbonmoth so... did you kill the neighbor... or the dog????
@@Thuggernaut58 🤐🤫
However,
J would never hurt an animal..
Dun't ya know
I love that brownie camera in your closet reminds me of being a kid, my dad collected vintage cameras.
Using a hanger rod as a staff is a requirement. You just can't skip that step.
We all have done it. Some might not confess to it or admit it, but we all have.
Sssshhhhh
fantastic sense of humor! Excellent work!
Seems to me i usually install t&g flooring perpendicular to the floor framing. Usually the runs end up going in the long dimension of the room..thats the new england way anyhow...
Thanks friend, this video helped me a lot, I want to learn more about putting hardwood floors. I always watch all your videos greetings and infinite blessings.
I lay floors for a living and you pretty much did it right.
The only thing that I would recommend is always use wax paper under your flooring Engineered or solid wood
And what’s the purpose of using wax paper?
Why?
Yes, I too want to know the reason behind this shenanigan
The wax paper helps with movement. No squeaky floors
What does the wax paper do? and do you adhere the wax paper down or is it just laid down and the wood over it?
We are about to lay our first hardwood floor, and I am having a beginner fright - so many things can go wrong. Thank you for this, Jason, and thanks to all the pros who commented with useful tips. We hired installers to lay wood floors in our dining room (yes, we had carpet in the dinning room!), but to save money, we removed trim, carpet, all the staples and nails ourselves. The pros laid the 10' x 12' room in 2.5 hours. Then we installed and painted the trim ourselves. It seemed like we did all the difficult work, lol.
Let me just use this expensive measuring equipment as a pry bar real quick.
$130 for that square! Can we all say "more money than brains"?
Right!?! That’s a 120 square
@@joelw6215 bet it’s 90…. Hahaha
@@victoriaq5157 I don’t know. I checked your channel to see your woodworking projects, using only super cheap tools, but you didn’t have any.
@@victoriaq5157 can we all say "knows how to use his tools, and isn't a cheap worker that isn't scared of not babying his stuff"
I’m not a carpenter and have never done this kind of work at all. But I do have a couple of questions, first do you sand the floor after removing the carpet? And second are their any sealants for the floor that you would put down. Before you put down the new flooring? The sealant is for those who live in climates that get really cold for an extended period of time. And help keep moisture at a little to none. Finally awesome video and I enjoy your content.
Wonderful job so far!! I wanted to see the trimmings done too!!
Love me a bit of Bourbon Moth
When square space popped up, it was like I got Nam flash backs from last week's episode! I mean if I was in Nam I'm sure that's what it was like
Here we go Marc using Walnut for shop projects and your using a woodpecker square as a pry bar haha I love it cheers. Great video.