It'd be NICE if It Would STOP... Fixing Fork Truck Brakes! ~ RESCUING a 1960's Fork Truck ~ Part 3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- It's time to continue getting this old Fork Truck ready for battle!
I'd like to be able to stop, & it would be nice if I could figure out where all the hydraulic fluid is going!
Today we're going to:
- Completely tear the brakes apart & get them working
- Troubleshoot a couple BIG hydraulic leaks
- Clean up the electrical wiring harness
- Test it all out and see what other problems need to be taken care of
This machine was EXTREMELY well built and is gonna be a WORK horse here at the shop when I'm done with it!
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First off this is a late 60's Hyster (not a 70's, I was wrong) H60C Fork Truck that has a lifting capacity of 7000lbs. This machine has a 6 cylinder Gasoline F227 Continental Flat Head Engine. It has a HystaMatic transmission, which is basically a hydra-static style transmission, meaning it's an automatic and has no clutch, which is good and bad! It has air tires in the front and they look like they are holding air just fine!
Now for the bad!
The previous owners took out the spark plugs and for whatever reason they NEVER PUT THEM BACK IN! Then the machine was stored OUTDOORS where the weather and mice decided to fill up the top of the motor with rain and NASTY mouse nests!
As of recently, it was given to the guy I got it from due to it's issues. Since then he decided he didn't have the time to spend to make the machine usable again, and he was planning to scrap it!
That's where I came in, and I'm betting the motor is LOCKED UP!!
Let's find out if this 42 year old forklift is even salvageable and whether or not I should spend the time it might take to save it, we both know I WANT TO!!
I've been looking for a forklift in this size range, especially one that can drive on gravel / uneven surfaces, and I REALLY hope this machine is saveable!
Let's find out!
~
If you have any suggestions, questions, or comments, please leave them below!
Thanks for stopping by, I truly appreciate your support!
#ForkTruckRescue #WillitStop #SalvageWorkshop
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Thank you SOOOO much for checking out the video working on this 1969 Fork Truck! I hope you consider subscribing if you haven't already! I won't let you regret it!
There are TONS of big updates on current Projects & Updates here at the Shop Coming SOON on the channel! I've also got some EXCITING new projects that I'm REALLY excited about here at Salvage Workshop, so you won't want to miss out on those!! Should be a BLAST!
Also if you haven't already, check out the previous parts of this Old Fork Truck Rescue! It's crazy that this thing is even able to run!
Part 1: 1969 Fork Truck Headed for the SCRAP YARD! ~ th-cam.com/video/HD2l6OgpQs4/w-d-xo.html
Part 2: Will the Fork Truck RUN? & Can I DRIVE it HOME? ~ th-cam.com/video/YbEDHNzc3kg/w-d-xo.html
Call Chris's carb shop in dayton Ohio. He's well known around here for fixing carbs that parts can't be found.
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Maybe holley will sponsor you with a sniper EFI kit lololol
Just replace all the hydraulic lines.. this is what happens when these guys sit. You should pull the hydraulic rams off too and ether rebuild them yourself or take them to a company that does it. The exposed boot will be dry and cracked. You will just destroy the inner sleve o-rings when debris is taken past the boot. Being in the position of a supervisor in a warehouse.. every mandatory holiday I would not be looking forward to starting the cold equipment when we got back. These machines do not like sitting. Believe it or not the electric reach trucks were the worse. When they get cool they acted like geriatrics.
#3
I used to sit and watch my late Husband work on our cars. We could not afford a late model car so we always bought old cars and he fixed them so me and the kids could get to school and shopping. Some times he would work all weekend just to get us on the road safely. Watching you is really nice for me. Thank you for sharing with us.
Sounds like a wonderful man
2 things you want for sure on a forklift. A transmission that does not instantly engage so you can gently ease into and out of pallets AND and the emergency brake you can set every time you get off to do something so it doesn't run over your foot.
I’ve only ever used an electric forklift but I was thinking the same thing. The electric one you could ease into movement using the throttle pedal; the same idea would apply here for sure. Having a forklift that basically slams into motion is a great way to dump what you’re carrying all over the place.
That's y u have a inching pedal on gas/diesel/petrol to slowly disengage/re-engage the gearbox while simultaneously applying or releasing the brakes when going to a pallet ot side of a truck some electrics do engage quite vigorously when in F/R
@@Lee-At-Green-Pheonix-Rc I didn't know that, thank you :) Never hurts to learn new things.
@@SpawnofChaos no worries mate been driving forklifts since I was 18 over ten years on all fuel type be if u press the inching pedal all the way disengages the clutch on the gearbox and applies the brakes that why ur brake pedal is floppy when inching pedal is to the floor I never use the brake pedal allways just the accelerator and inch pedal hysters the more modern ish ones use two pedals an inching pedal and acceleration pedal 👍 but I had a 2018/2019 doosan 25 👍 lpg turbo could go 20mph
@@SpawnofChaos plus with the inching pedal pressed in u can give it some throttle to make the hydraulics work faster 👍without going fast wen entering a pallet ot unloading a truck
I like how you don’t pretend to know everything and admit when your not sure. Its nice to see humble people, who ask questions to their audience. Keep up the great videos.
Seems like it idles way too high. Either the low speed circuit is not working, or the idle screw needs to be adjusted way down. I'd say as long as the transmission functions at all you should consider yourself lucky! Good luck on the mast cylinder. Those are fun!
I lied....I came here instead of back to Fitzee lol...I was going to suggest he pop over to your channel and watch your forklift brake video, but here you are in person!
Correct, turn the idle screw all the way in see if it stumbles, if so it's working, if not it's clogged. Use a vac gauge and adjust to peak vac measurement as demonstrated on many others videos. The carb is probably fine, they don't go bad if rebuilt properly... unless the throttle plate get's worn, leaks and or creates a vac leak, didn't look like it though. Up size the jets or run non ethanol mid range octane fuel, use an additive depending on the heat range plug used. My preference is Holley's been using them for 40 years. Parts are cheap, plentiful and will be around for years. Find a 2 barrel plate that matches or have an adapter plate cnc'd or make one your self. Also, if it bogs, give it some timing or check all your advance hardware. Happy trails, Cheers!
I’m trying to study for AP tests but it’s just one good vid after another. Andrew Camarata, Watch Wes Work, Salvage Workshop.
@@thesmallenginekid The mechanic that runs the TH-cam channel " Western Truck and Tractor Repair " is a very good mechanic also, I watch this channel all the time.
I agree with Wes
No grease in the wheel bearings, not going to hurt anything but not necessary. They get their lubrication from diff oil. Your bearings are WAY too tight. Should be good and snug then back off 1/4 turn. Just don't want any free play.
I learned that 1/4 turn back-off also many years ago.
Yeah. Same here. With these tapered bearings, too tight is a sure way to burn them out before their time. I learned the 'snug the nut tight and loose while spinning the drum to take up the slack. Then tighten it firmly (don't go crazy) then back off 1/4-ish turn', technique.
You are right on the grease on the wheel bearings, but this unit has 2 seals meaning that the oil from the differential does never get to the bearing. Our lift at work of set up the same way, and the bearings need to be greased. Another thing is that this unit is not build to speed down the road so for the oil to reach the floating hub bearings it would be nearly impossible since the speed of the differential will have to be more than 5 miles per hour to actually move the oil down the selves and into the floating hubs. And yes them bearings will be screaming soon if not backed out properly.
I have to agree. Way to tight. good thing this only goes about 5 mph
Yeah, when it was removed, it was less than hand tight. 9:51
To remove the axle shafts after removing nuts smack it several times with a sledge hammer. Hit it right in the center like you are driving the axle into the housing and it will bounce back loose. To us old guys those are brake shoes, brake pads go on disc brakes. You do good work.
Very truth. Also once the cones have moved away from the axle use a thin flathead screw driver, push it into the cone grove to help spread the cone open and make it easier to slide it off the stud.
Brother, I don’t know your name but I will tell you this; this channel happens to be one of my all time favorites dude. Great content and excellent work!
I appreciate that Dave! Without YOUR support, there wouldn't BE a channel, so THANK YOU for your support, I'm truly glad you enjoy the channel! TONS more to come!!
.
OH and by the way, my name is Matt Salvage!
@@gregorythomas333 YES!
Wheel bearing adjustment: fully tighten then back of 1 flat of the nut which will give the correct amount of play in the bearings!
To tight a bearing will fail . Bearings will expand. Wenn hot if there is no play in the bearing it will sieze up !!
I'll second that about over tightening bearings. Unless the manufacturer specifies a certain preload, always leave some play to allow lubricant recoat every revolution. Barring getting moisture into the hub those bearings should last the life of the machine.
That's good to know! I wasn't sure on that, and I'm NOT working from a manual or anything! I will DEFINITELY loosen those up ASAP! I don't want to cause an issue or have to replace them anytime soon!
Wenn we Service brakes in Germany the inner circumference of the brake drum is measured, every brake drum has a maximum wear limit If the circumference is larger than the allowed tolerance the brake drum is renewed!
Now to brake linings. I would tend to say that those fitted have reached there wear limit. I don’t now what is available in the USA in Germany if the drums are within tolerance we can re line the brake shoes with 3 different size linings! I
Don’t forget by adjusting the brake linings out to the drum the piston on your brake cylinder also move outwards !
Also, you can usually flip that ring (with the holes in it) over and get a slightly different fit. So if you stick it on and the hole is half off the pin, flip the ring over and it should go right on.
Jupp, thighten untill the bearing is really thight then back of until it mowes smothly, that way you settle the bearing, it is what I was thought by oldtimers 40+ years ago.
When using that plastic wiring loom, I usually start in the middle and work out to either end, that way you don't have as long a length to keep spinning around the cabling.
💡
You should screw it on from the bottom
Once you get the lift part fixed on the HYSTER, would be a great tool for lifting the CAT peices and fixing all those heavy parts. Great work and i would hire you to fix anything mechanical like that. Am impressed.
9:26 I love that I’m not the only one who has to think about (and sometimes pantomime) which direction to turn bolts…
You are NOT alone!
Use an old UK saying of mine, Lefty loosy righty tighty 👍
@@31144 that's a common saying in the US too
Well, are there actually people *_not_* doing that .....?
It’s that upside down thing that gets me all the time. LOL
no matter what anyone says you just cant beat a good old machine,back in the day they used to build things to last, these old beasts will still be going strong long after some of these newer ones bite the dust.
Tip: Those wheel bearings are not supposed to have any preload on them. Spin the drum while tightening the nut to set the wheel bearing, tightening only until there is no free-play and minimal to no preload. I cringed a bit watching you torque the wheel bearing. That torque will lead to premature wear on the wheel bearings. I enjoy your channel.
I was cringing to.
Gasket no problem… don’t torque bearings nuts unless there are sealed bearings…. Like 96 Dodge Ram which requires 300# torque!
At7:24 your damage line looks like it had water in it and it was frozen sometime in the past!
When you replace the damage lines steel or aluminum I always put anti-seize between nut and line only it will help in future work…. Perfect for brake lines too! Once installed and done on the brake lines I rub axle grease on the lines to help keep moisture off and slows down the rusting!
At 14:01 don’t pump brakes without drums on… you can blow wheel cylinder! Minimum put ratchet straps around brake shoes to protect wheel cylinder! Again you got lucky! If you are still looking to name this forklift? I’ll suggest “Lucky” for what you invested and how many close calls lucky is the only appropriate name for it!
Be Careful when working on older drum brake systems. The Brake Shoe Lining material did contain asbestos. Definitely recommend wearing a respirator and using plenty of brake clean. Be safe, Thanks again for the videos.
And thats exactly why they lasted
@@davesanford4798 Outlasted the mechanics.
I was thinking the same thing about asbestos.
@@smasica My first career was as a TEM operator and we routinely looked at air sample filters from asbestos testing. Those crystals are razor-sharp and tiny - breathing them is akin to inhaling micro-flechettes. (Thought I'd use a gun term so folks here would unnerstan.)
And, yes, Mannville KNEW, all along. They got off cheap on the settlements IMHO.
This rescue just gets more satisfying as time goes by!
I think my fave thing about you video is you just talking about things. What they are, things about them.
A good cheap way to clean out rust/gunk from cylindrical holes is a home made flap wheel, a short rod with a slit in one end deep enough to fit the width of the emery tape you intend to use. Put the other end into a drill or die grinder and wrap it up with the grit outside, just put it in the hole and spin the drill/grinder, the finer the grit the better the polish. Will work in holes from about 1/2" up over, smaller if your gentle. Looking forward to more Big Red videos.
Please don’t blow out the brakes with air , most or all were made with asbestos and you could breath in the dust .
Use brake parts cleaner instead .
I always enjoy watching and learning something I will never do.
It's bad for tapered roller bearings to be preloaded too much. That's the reason for the retaining mechanism on the nut. I think you overdid it.
I agree 100%
Check out Bus Grease Monkey - coach (bus) hubs & brakes seem to be very similar, and he is often saying that you should be able to undo that inner nut by hand (or very nearly).
Too much pre-load on the bearings
I did the brakes on my Cat forklift a few years back. In the service manual there was a definite specification for the amount of drag at the wheel hub when adjusting the bearing preload. You definitely did not crank down on the nut as hard as you can. I was sort of surprised that the forklift was able to move at all when I saw the axle nut getting cranked down the as much as I saw in the video.
That's GREAT to know! Thank you! I will adjust them out a bit RIGHT away! I don't want to cause an issue or have to replace the bearings ANYTIME soon! Thanks for watching & commenting! I truly appreciate it!
Your lift leak may also have a plugged return line from the rod end. It is just a vent to tank on a forklift lift cylinder. Obviously , the piston seal is shot, too.I worked on an H100B at work. It had a stick shift 3 speed each way. This thing was so bad it was missing the rod for 1st gear from the shifter to the transmission. The guy we got it from didn't even realize it was missing low gear. They brought it to me for brakes, which needed master cylinder wheel cylinders and shoes, but the engine was so worn that it wouldn't run. After the rebuild ( Continental F245) and a lot of checking, it idled like a Swiss watch, but sputtered under load- the distributor advance worked the wrong way! A stopgap repair proved the point and a new distributor built for the proper direction of rotation woke the engine right up.It had a couple of other issues with heat riser and leaky exhaust causing the engine to ingest exhaust gas. The only other issue was with Hyster's throttle system. You should show this. The mechanical governor equipped with a spring breakaway arm so the foot throttle can slow the engine. one of the linkages kept slipping on the throttle shaft. The branch that now has the machine loves it. From cold start it runs like warm in about 30 seconds in winter! The linkage on the lift and tilt valves is sensitive to wear issues. Incidentally, that is not a hydrostatic transmission, it's a powershift and works much like an automatic in a car. Slow engagement is a dead giveaway of a plugged filter.
Groovy, I worked in all around maintenance for 30 years and I really enjoy all of your videos. And I love to figure out how things work.
This young man has an amazing work ethic and no end of passion for the mechanical arts. Were he my son, I would be so proud. His father has to be thrilled.
I'm not sure about forklift wheel bearings, but on most cars, trucks and trailers the inner nut is supposed to be tightened down snug so that there is resistance when turning the wheel, then you back off about a quarter turn to free up the bearing but avoid slop in wheel play.
Contact Hyster and ask them for the name of the oldest Hyster repair shop. They should know it. Maybe someone has the carb parts you need.
I always found making gaskets very satisfying. Yes when you jacked up the first wheel I recalled that feeling of not feeling truly safe when being under. I have stood under the keel of a couple of Destroyers and it always made me wonder 'how safe'.
Putting the plastic loom on the wires was very smart. It’s looks so much better with it. What’s happening with Old Red? You did a good job on getting the Old Hyster up and running. Until next time.
Another reason to make your gear look good - you’ll care more about it
I think you are a mechanical genius with amazing persistence and was going to suggest power washing it until you explained why you wait to clean it!!😀😀😀😀
Those are the hard lessons only hands-on (and in-face sprays) experience hammer into your head! Stuff like that makes this gentleman worth his weight in hydraulic fluid.
Oh idk about that! I just enjoy saving old tools and machines! There are lot's of ways to do things, and I DEFINITELY don't know all of them, but I do know I appreciate you watching the videos and leaving a comment! The channel wouldn't exist without YOU! Lot's more to come!!
there should be a creaper valve off the left brake pedal that needs adjusting , or it may be Parshall stuck its usually located under the floor pan on top of the transmision
It is good to the" Shyster" moving and stopping. A company in the UK called Burlen Fuel Systems is where I go for all carburettor jets, needles and rare parts. I don't know if that helps.
Brake SHOES with brake linings rivetted on. PADS on disc brakes. Nice job.
Really enjoying this project. You do things the way I like to, making things nice and neat. I can't stand having wires laying everywhere, grease coating everything, etc. Very satisfying to watch it come together.
A tip for removing those cone washers on the axle shaft; take a hammer and punch and tap the ent of the stud. It should shock the cone washer enough to pop it out. Saves having to pry on the sealing surface
Also, depending on the machine, sometimes if the drum is stuck on there you can bolt the axle shaft back on in reverse and use it as leverage to pull the drum off
Really have enjoyed watching your projects with all your awesome finds. Keep up the good work.
Something else to consider is using any available carb for a 6 cylinder with the same displacement and rpm range. I've got a Kawasaki generator that I run with a Briggs and Stratton carb. It took a little head scratching to make the adaptor but it works well. I've also got a Miller welder which had an old Tecumseh engine with a rare and unavailable carb on it. I found a carb on Amazon for a Kohler with the same horsepower that sold for less than $20 dollars. Don't know how long it will last but it works very well today.
I hope that ballast resistor isn't for your coil because it will limit the power to the pump and burn it up. if it is to the coil hook the pump up to the feed side of the ballast to get 12 volts to the pump or put a relay in
Contact youtuber Mustie about your carb issues. He seems to be able to get parts for his projects. He mentions Zenith carbs a lot.
@mustie1
Zenith is an airplane carb manufacturer
@@pacificcoastpiper3949 They made carbs for all kinds of equipment, sold lots of kits for tractors etc.
@@williamjackson5942 ah, cool! I only knew their aero stuff
I love how much I'm learning from your videos. That reminds me, I once attended a course where a sign that read MATD was posted over the door as a constant reminder. I'm happy to see that you believe strongly and practice meticulous attention to detail (MATD). If you're going to do it, might as well do it well.
Your step by step of what you are doing and how its done makes even us shade tree mechanics feel like nothing is impossible.
Anything IS possible if you give it a shot! Im no better than a shade tree mechanic myself!
The spiral wrap normally comes with a special tool to help with installing it and it makes it so much easier and quicker to install.
I agree with people below about the gaskets and pre load on the bearings. These bearings are designed to be lubed by diff oil. The outer gasket keeps the oil from leaking out onto the ground. The inner seal keeps the diff oil off the shoes. Back in the days I usually took the "over tighten, back off and snap to zero lash approach". By this I would over tighten the bearing, back it off until the nut was free to move by hand, throw a socket on the nut and sort of just snap ones wrist clockwise until the nut stopped moving. I then put in the inner locking spacer and would then the outer nut to keep all things tight. This was known as seated bearings with zero lash. Hope this helps you in the future when working on wheel bearings. For a time in the auto trade we would torque bearings to a pre-load as specified by manufacture. Personally I always thought the manufacture specs over tighten the bearings, but I never had come backs either way. Hope your drum slave cylinders where not to rusty as they may leak even with new cups.
Seeing old machines working warms my heart for some reason lol
Man oh man I would like to see you and JC Smith team up together and tackle some projects. You both have the perfect work ethic, clean it up and fix what's broken and even add-on better stuff when possible. Thanks for sharing buddy, your videos are always appreciated.
Excellent vid. Really enjoying seeing you work through the issues of this Hyster!
Tapping the fuel pump off of the coil reduces the available voltage to the pump. There appears to be a drop down resistor ahead of the coil. Normally 6 volts output. I have also ran a 12 volt wire off of the starter solenoid to supply 12 volts to the coil for a short time , helps with cold start situations. Love your channel. Been wrenching on this old stuff since before you were born.
Found your channel recently and love it. Keep up the great videos and will continue watching.
You are correct in Finding the problem first and fixing it and then wash and clean
Matt,drove one of these when worked for navy,they are bomb proof if you keep on top of maintenance not a problem to you,keep rescuing these machine's regards🛠️👍🇬🇧
i'm from Tunisia, and your channel is in the top of my favourite short list! I apreciate what you do, Keep working on your projects and let us see more videos...
You are mostly right about why the inner drum bearing is packed with grease. However, Hyster made it practice (and actually still does) to pack the inner bearing with grease rather than flood with 90 weight from the differential because it is believed that due to the lower speeds that forklifts travel that the diff oil won't properly lubricate the inner bearing. At least, that's what everyone always told me when I used to work on these things for a living. Usually, when I pulled a drum off a Hyster that had this setup, the inner seal usually had failed and there was some 90wt gear oil in the inner bearing cavity. The big solid tire 13,500 - 15,000 capacity (S135 - S155 model) Hysters actually have a floating axle assembly similar to this but they seal the end of the hub so both inner and outer bearings have to be packed with grease. The outer bearing on your lift still floats in diff oil. You might want to check your differential level because things look a tittle dry. The wheel bearings preload like an automobile. Synch her up tight and back off to just a little more than finger tight. It looks like you had it too tight. That's why the locking nut. I hope you smeared the seal surfaces with some grease too before installing. They always seem to need some lube.
Enjoyed watching the repairs. The half shafts do need those paper gaskets, and you can even make them out of breakfast cereal boxes, saving more $$, this is a yard machine so no need to splash too much on it. Proper repairs will do. To tighten the axle bearing nuts, go all the way in while turning the drum and then back off a little. You don't want the bearing rollers too tightly on the race. Electric wires look real neat, good job! Hope you get the carb sorted, there should be repair kits maybe even at forklift/tractor suppliers. These continental engines were used all over, even the military.
Appreciation of work. Rare nowadays. Love it!
Those main hydraulic cylinders can usually be repaired right from the top. Just lift the mast enough to get access and then remove the top nut/retainer and the only seal/packing is right there. Not at the bottom of rod like most cylinders.
Make sure you are using the correct fluid in trans. A lot of those are dexron, not hydraulic fluid.
Thanks for posting you are pretty close to getting this old forklift back into service. Looking forward to seeing old red again.
That gasket you made for the axel hub was a good thing. That keeps the oil from leaking. That oil then lubes the bearings.
I can honestly say that this is the first time I've seen a can of brake cleaner used for it's intended purpose! Lol!
Your review-before-cleaning process resembles Louis Rossmann's process when fixing... computer motherboards.
When looking for a failure, many times a "shit-stain" will give a great indicator of the failures without a lot of detailed troubleshooting.
a very good man ! can repair such a big machine ! R E S P E C T !!!
I can’t explain why I enjoy your vids so much, but I really do. I get upset when they end. I look forward very much for your work and check every day to see if there is anything new. I hope you get back to Big Red to finish that soon. You are an amazing mech. It’s a joy to watch and I appreciate how you keep a constant stream of consciousness going. Works great for me. Please keep them coming!
That's a cool fountain you've got on the mast! Still - nice loom, nice brakes. Looking forward to the next episode.
I sure do enjoy watching you work on your machines. I joined the Navy and made a 30 year career but watching you makes me wish I had done what you are doing. But since I can’t, I’m living it through you. Keep up the good work.
If i remember correct when in gaged forward or reverse it should only move a fraction until you put your foot on the gas pedal iso it will not jump forward or backwards nice vlog looking good you all take care is old red still alive 😂😂👍
I think that’s a really sweet sounding engine, got yourself a bargain there, coat of yellow paint and your good to go, 👍😃
It IS! Astounding after the horrifying things found IN it and the terrifying things done TO it!!
I completely agree Cliff! I've been just as surprised by this old beast as you are! Not sure it's going to be yellow for much longer! Stay tuned to find out!
Good to see another machine not being consigned to the scrap heap. And an engine head referring to a ‘Rule’ not Ruler 👍
With the spiral loom, coil it up into a smaller hand coil, taped in a couple places. Un-tape and re-extend as you use up what's out. It's a lot easier than dealing with that long tail. 👍
Removing the Halfshaft is done with a big hammer hitting the center of the flange of the halfshaft. It pops out because its (minimal) pushed into the axle and the kinetic energy drives it out. This worked for me on the Eaton axles 50 years ago, I think, the principle is still the same.
Nice video BTW.
For rusted and gunked up parking brake cables, I used to soak them in a bucket of kerosene for a while. Once everything was soaked thoroughly, I would work the cable in and out as you did. The rust would be "pumped" out as the cable was worked.
Man you got a new subscriber here! I'm just loving watching these videos! Totally hooked! I appreciate how you explain things and your thought process while you're working. I like to do the same, fixing up old stuff and getting it working right. Just don't have the time or money to do it right now, so I'm living vicariously through these videos. I also loved the old compressor restoration you did. One piece of advice about doing drum brakes - maybe you did it and I missed it - I hope you cleaned off the rust and greased all the contact points where the shoe ears contact the backing plate. Not a big deal if you don't, but I've had a squeak on my car every time I let off the brake pedal, and greasing those spots solved it. After this, you should be sponsored by WD-40!
You have saved a forklift that usually would be scrapped, and everything you fix makes it closer to a working machine, very good work!
Love the way you bring old machines back to life, and explain what you are doing all the time...
Just a note in respect of the tape on the loom;- Has not lost it's adhesive! It is supposed to be a plain tape which keeps dirt and moisture out without gumming up the wires and glueing grit and debris in place - allows the loom to flex. If you have the opportunity to replace it I would recommend doing so - spiral wrap will not keep grit out of the loom, but would be OK over the correct non adhesive PVC tape.
I know this is a minor point, and probably absolutely not important in the grand scheme of things but when you installed the new hydraulic hose, you installed it over the wiring harness, the one that it replaced was underneath. 100% sure it will not make a difference at all, but who knows?
Thank you for consistently posting some amazing content! Love your channel
Great videos.Keep them coming. Really enjoy them.Love to see old things brought back to life.
Love all your hard work sir. Been watching you on all your projects. But I miss big red. Lol
Those wheel cylinders look to be almost identical to the ones on the Mercedes Unimog 404-S. Very similar issues with those wheel cylinders as well. One very common issue is crud and debris will get stuck between the cup seal and the wall of the wheel cylinder, which causes a leak. Generally you can just tear them down, clean them up really good and put them back together again and they work great again.
That white loom is actually for hydraulic line to protect it from rubbing in smaller areas. But it would work fine for wire just tedious. The loom for wire is called "split loom" and its usually black but comes in different colors and has a long split that makes it fast and easy to cover existing wire. It also more thoroughly protects the wire unlike the hydraulic line loom.
We have an old Nissan lift in our shop and it has the same transmission in it, they do take a little to build up pressure and shift into gear but one thing I notice on a lot of operators is that they try to use the third pedal to stop (the pedal on the far left side of the machine). This pedal is actually a neutral or clutch pedal combined with the brake mechanism. If you press this pedal you will notice that the unit will disengage the gear and towards the end of travel of the pedal it should apply the brakes . The second pedal (the pedal on the center) is the actual brake pedal. If you press the brake pedal your brakes apply immediately. Same goes as taking off. The clutch/brake pedal will release the brakes first but then it takes longer to engage the transmission back into gear. Instead use the middle/brake pedal. The transmission will stay engaged and it will not feel like the transmission is taking long to get moving. The clutch pedal is used so the transmission goes into neutral to prevent movement of the machine so you can increase engine speed during the lift, shit or tilt functions to speed up the operation..
That extra inner seal in the hub always seemed to be a "Hyster thing", I am unsure whether that style ever enjoyed use by any other forklift brands. In the Hyster forklifts, the inner seal separated the outer bearing cavity (which was oil lubed by the drive axle gear oil) from the inner wheel bearing cavity (which was a grease packed bearing). Many other brands of forklifts use a seal in the end of the axle load tube that seals against the axle shaft to keep differential lube oil out of the wheel bearing cavity of the hub, with both bearings being grease packed. Hyster was the only brand I personally know of that thought the inner and outer bearings should be lubed differently. It would be interesting (to me) to know why that strategy was ever developed.
I also have worked on forklifts (don't remember if it was MCFA, Nissan, or Yale) where the wheel bearings were grease packed, but the bearing cavity actually had a small drilled hole that vented to atmosphere outside of the wheel area, I presumed that was so if the axle tube seal failed and let differential lube oil into the bearing cavity it would announce it by showing a visible oil leak before the oil made its way past the wheel seal and contaminated the brake SHOES.
When I drove lift trucks 30 years ago, I preferred the Clark and Hyster, to the Toyota and others. Clark and Hyster always seemed to have smoother controls and feathering. Some of the others were harsh and abrupt. I was lucky enough to drive a large range of models on the railroad, and lumberyard, some tiny and some beasts.
This has been a very good series of videos, you have done excellent work 👌
Yes, brakes come in handy. Good work!
Brake Pads for Disk Brakes. Brake Shoes for Drum Brakes. You do a Good job none the less! Thanks for sharing your Day!
You shouldn't tighten that inside hub nut so much. It's only meant to be "snug", otherwise you put too much load on the bearings. When that pin didn't line up with the washer you should have loosened that inner nut a bit, not tightened it.The outer nut is the one that's supposed to be tight. Love your channel. You're not afraid to tackle anything!
When doing a brake job on a lift, cleanliness is crucial as the hub rpm is not as a car . It is always a good idea to burnish the brakes and readjust the shoes. As far as the trans engagement, just be glad it moves. Pump pressure may not be as she once was. As long as she moves, be grateful. The old FE series Continental engines are solid power plants and is a plus.
I can't believe how sweet that engine runs considering it was locked up solid at first
There was NO grease in the bearings upon tear down, so, its a "wet" system, lubrication through the axle fluid/Lucas hub oil, and the Hub gaskets are needed..... regarding the Transmission it is Probably old type "F" Fluid, and yes your filter is probably clogged up from the years of just being an outside machine plus the abuses it's endured, because you know it wasn't babied at all by anyone who sat in the seat lol
You can repair the steel hydraulic lines that are split, weld I'd up with a mug, saves quite a bit of money. I did Hawg fuel with a 450 JD and I had a $75 line splitting and took it off and welded the split right up.👍👍
Grateful that TH-cam recommended your channel months ago. Just bought my first house, now I can work on my own resto projects. First project is a 1960 Curtis 80 gallon compressor that I found dirt cheap with a bad start capacitor. Motor runs great now and it did make pressure. Decided to take the head apart and found a broken reed valve. Fixed that with some shim stock, cleaned and put new springs on the others. Now I'm not sure it will make pressure any more cause the unloader assembly wasn't working for a long time apparently, and not even Curtis, who is only like 60 miles from me in St Louis, has a diagram on how it was supposed to be in the first place. Maybe I can plumb an electric unloader? Sorry, got off on a tangent. Love the projects, looking forward to more of yours and my own.
I'm looking forward to part 4.
Great job on the wiring loom and congrats on getting the brakes working too. Loving this series. ☺👍
I did not read through all the comments so someone may have already addressed this but your trans being slow to engage may be due to what I have been taught is a clutch brake. On most forklifts I have run the left brake pedal is the clutch brake. When pressed partially down it will neutralize the trans, as you push the petal farther down it begins to apply the brake. This helps when trying to gain rpm to speed up lifting without taking the transmission out of gear. The right petal is only brake. From what little I could see your feet in your video it looked like you were only using the left pedal. Hope this helps.
Funny watching you righty tighty-lefty loosey that nut. Great content. Thanks.
best hour of my week
Thanks for taking time and film in details. I am into these heavy trucks too and it is alot of hydraulics. One thing take it easy with the oil pressure from a leak but I bet you know that one but depending on the pressure from the system it can cause severe damage to your skin and muscles, tissue. If you get a just a little bit of injection go straight to hospital even if it doesnt feel like hurting but is destroys it underneath and it is NOT good...take care...and be careful. You could get these protections for the hoses to prevent from throwing out the oil....
Just a little lubricant and
some elbow grease and
a little time and patience.
And you can get anything
going again. Just a bit of
cylinder work and the Ole
Yeller fork lift will be ready.
Sure missing the updates on big red but hey, I know you’re working on him. You’re gonna pump out some good content there. Anxiously awaiting. :)
To make holes in a seal gasket, use a steel ball (ball-bearing), place it on the hole and hit the steel ball lightly with the hammer.
I like that little fork lift you have. That would fit right into my shop.
You can use the gasket in a tube stuff for a seal on the hub and it will work just fine. And you're right to pack grease into the bearings because the oil won't get to them.