Get the T1 PRO here and use discount code FLSUNJBBART (valid until January 31 2025): ca.store.flsun3d.com/discount/FLSUNJBBART?redirect=%2Fproducts%2Fflsun-t1-pro Get the S1 PRO here and use discount code FLSUNJBBARS (valid until January 31 2025): ca.store.flsun3d.com/discount/FLSUNJBBARS?redirect=%2Fproducts%2Fflsun-s1-pro Print times: Benchy - 10 min Lighthouse - 1.5 hrs USB camera stand - 1.5 hrs Statue - 4.5 hrs Phone case - 3 hrs
I've been using FLsun printers for a while now and the V400 and SR have been very stable. The T1 Pro looks like a good upgrade, but I'm moving so I'll definitely consider upgrading once I'm in my new home. Stay tuned!
I purchased 8 T1 Pros to expand my farm, and they’ve been running smoothly and efficiently for over a month. I plan to buy more T1 Pros soon to continue scaling up.
For this speed, the print quality on this phone case is seriously impressive! To be honest, ASA can be a bit of a pain to print with-needs spot-on temp control and stability. But this machine totally nails it.
I’ve had my T1 pro for about a month. I print mostly stuff for my lapidary shop. This is my first printer so I can’t compare it to anything. 😊It does what I want with little issue.
Not sure what CFLAP is. You mean a CPAP fan? Has one. Unfortunately there are no sensors or data for chamber temp that I can find. I should've noted that in the video. It's not a heated chamber in the sense that there's a dedicated heater for that, but it does retain heat. How much is a fair question. I can install a couple of sensors and update you folks with a follow up video on what I find after printing with a few other filaments.
I have a Bambu P1S, the slicer you used around 13:45 looks the same except the device tab is custom for this printer. I wonder if they teamed up or if the base software is open source perhaps?
PrusaSlicer is a fork (copy) of the og Slic3r, Bambu Studio is a fork of PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer is a fork of Bambu Studio, this and many other versions are forks of OrcaSlicer. It's open source, which is why they all use it.
No. If you don't have 120V in your region, then use a step down transformer to convert 240-120V. I use 120V to limit the power and heat output without requiring more intelligent electronics and sensors to do so. If you double the input voltage to a resistance heater (ie 120 to 240), then you also end up doubling the current and quadrupling the output power as a result. In this case, that much heat output would cause serious damage to your panel and possibly start a fire in the laminator. Please don't connect to a 240V power source unless you step it down to 120V before connecting the elements.
I've had deltas before, loved them but with one drawback and that's your last point. They are very space inefficient which is mostly a deal breaker for me. The speed of the T1 pro is tempting, the max flow rate is impressive.
I wouldn't say they're "very" space inefficient, though. They're a few cm wider/deeper than a corexy with the same build volume which really isn't a big deal unless a person lives in a very small apartment and is trying to run a mini print farm out of a closet or something. Delta's are twice as tall as a corexy though, which means a lot of height wasted if you discount the new placement of the filament spools to help fill that space, and that makes stacking machines difficult if not impractical. BUT these latest machines print twice as fast. One T1 can do the work of two typical corexy's. Ie, it eliminates the need for two corexy's that would occupy the same space.
@JamesBiggar I guess I'm coming from a more extreme view point. My vorons have a larger print volume and you could put 1.5 of them in the same area as the T1 Pro. That said, they are slower, easily twice the price and can take days to assemble. I pretty impressed with the T1.
Meh. I think they look cool. But as long as it isn't falling apart and it performs as it should, reliably, then I personally couldn't care less what any tool looks like.
Get the T1 PRO here and use discount code FLSUNJBBART (valid until January 31 2025):
ca.store.flsun3d.com/discount/FLSUNJBBART?redirect=%2Fproducts%2Fflsun-t1-pro
Get the S1 PRO here and use discount code FLSUNJBBARS (valid until January 31 2025):
ca.store.flsun3d.com/discount/FLSUNJBBARS?redirect=%2Fproducts%2Fflsun-s1-pro
Print times:
Benchy - 10 min
Lighthouse - 1.5 hrs
USB camera stand - 1.5 hrs
Statue - 4.5 hrs
Phone case - 3 hrs
I've been using FLsun printers for a while now and the V400 and SR have been very stable. The T1 Pro looks like a good upgrade, but I'm moving so I'll definitely consider upgrading once I'm in my new home. Stay tuned!
I purchased 8 T1 Pros to expand my farm, and they’ve been running smoothly and efficiently for over a month. I plan to buy more T1 Pros soon to continue scaling up.
This review is crazy detailed, and that machine looks next level! Think it's time to have the 'upgrade talk' with the wife about my old printer.
For this speed, the print quality on this phone case is seriously impressive! To be honest, ASA can be a bit of a pain to print with-needs spot-on temp control and stability. But this machine totally nails it.
I’ve had my T1 pro for about a month. I print mostly stuff for my lapidary shop. This is my first printer so I can’t compare it to anything. 😊It does what I want with little issue.
Definitely needs the CFLAP mod - what kind of chamber temps do you see and how long does it take for them to reach a steady state?
Not sure what CFLAP is. You mean a CPAP fan? Has one. Unfortunately there are no sensors or data for chamber temp that I can find. I should've noted that in the video. It's not a heated chamber in the sense that there's a dedicated heater for that, but it does retain heat. How much is a fair question. I can install a couple of sensors and update you folks with a follow up video on what I find after printing with a few other filaments.
@@JamesBiggar have a search for Flap controlled CPAP. This allows the control of CPAP air without the big ramp time of a blower fan.
Thanks for the info!
These would have been my next printer but I need a 350x350 build plate.
I have a Bambu P1S, the slicer you used around 13:45 looks the same except the device tab is custom for this printer. I wonder if they teamed up or if the base software is open source perhaps?
Orca Slicer
PrusaSlicer is a fork (copy) of the og Slic3r, Bambu Studio is a fork of PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer is a fork of Bambu Studio, this and many other versions are forks of OrcaSlicer. It's open source, which is why they all use it.
@@JamesBiggar That makes sense. That printer is epic. Great for big and fast prints with decent quality still.
Any idea on how to flip the voltage from 230 to 110? I found the very deep switch, just don't know how to move it.
A screwdriver.
Unrelated question. In an eaarlier video you reviewed Laser Pecker 3. Will it print on 0.5 mm leather? thanks
Yes.
Hi . I have questions about solar panel laminate machine can i use 240vac directly for heating element? You have mentioned is 120vac
No. If you don't have 120V in your region, then use a step down transformer to convert 240-120V. I use 120V to limit the power and heat output without requiring more intelligent electronics and sensors to do so. If you double the input voltage to a resistance heater (ie 120 to 240), then you also end up doubling the current and quadrupling the output power as a result. In this case, that much heat output would cause serious damage to your panel and possibly start a fire in the laminator. Please don't connect to a 240V power source unless you step it down to 120V before connecting the elements.
Thank you so much it is very useful for me and thanks for providing this to us 🙏🙏🙏@@JamesBiggar
You're welcome.
It is possible that we can use 240vac/ low watt heating element instead 750? Or any alternative?
How many watt step down transformer please 🙏?
I've had deltas before, loved them but with one drawback and that's your last point. They are very space inefficient which is mostly a deal breaker for me. The speed of the T1 pro is tempting, the max flow rate is impressive.
I wouldn't say they're "very" space inefficient, though. They're a few cm wider/deeper than a corexy with the same build volume which really isn't a big deal unless a person lives in a very small apartment and is trying to run a mini print farm out of a closet or something. Delta's are twice as tall as a corexy though, which means a lot of height wasted if you discount the new placement of the filament spools to help fill that space, and that makes stacking machines difficult if not impractical. BUT these latest machines print twice as fast. One T1 can do the work of two typical corexy's. Ie, it eliminates the need for two corexy's that would occupy the same space.
@JamesBiggar I guess I'm coming from a more extreme view point. My vorons have a larger print volume and you could put 1.5 of them in the same area as the T1 Pro. That said, they are slower, easily twice the price and can take days to assemble. I pretty impressed with the T1.
That's understandable. I'm fortunate to have a workshop where space isn't a big issue. The shoe that fits one foot pinches another.
Impressively fast but delta are just god awful ugly.
Meh. I think they look cool. But as long as it isn't falling apart and it performs as it should, reliably, then I personally couldn't care less what any tool looks like.
Haha, I got a T1pro because it’s a delta and look so cool. Each to there own 🤷♂️
@@chadharding8216 I guess I'm just more core xy. It's a cool mechanism anyway to still allow these speeds.