Adam Savage's Essential 3D Print Farm Upgrades!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2023
- As Adam keeps cranking out 3D prints from the Bambu X1C and Anycubic Kobra Max, he's realizing there are several quality of life upgrades he can make to his mini print farm to improve its efficiency. He 3D prints and assembles a filament winder to help transfer PLA from one 3KG spool to another, and then redesigns the printer stand to accommodate a massive catch-all filament waste chute behind the printers!
Bambu Lab X1C 3D printer: www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
MANITYA Small Dehumidifier for Bedroom 580 sq ft: amzn.to/473UXFw
PLA filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/c...
Filament winder design: www.printables.com/model/4668...
Anycubic Kobra Max: www.anycubic.com/products/kob...
Textured PEI build plate: us.store.bambulab.com/product...
Adam's 3D printer farm build: • Adam Savage Builds His...
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Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Josh Self
Music by Jinglepunks
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Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
#adamsavage #onedaybuilds #3dprinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Bambu Lab X1C 3D printer: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-combo-3d-printer/sk/M80GDCL5?aff=7553
MANITYA Small Dehumidifier for Bedroom 580 sq ft: amzn.to/473UXFw
PLA filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/c/mh-build-series-pla?aff=7553
Filament winder design: www.printables.com/model/466883-pastamatic-filament-spool-winder-for-bambu-lab-x1c
Anycubic Kobra Max: www.anycubic.com/products/kobra-max
Adam's 3D printer farm build: th-cam.com/video/taeS72yO__k/w-d-xo.html
Joint the 3d bust print to make the mouth move and add a finger rig in the base to make it work ... as a one day build episode ... heck work out a way to make some Iron man armour unfold around the bust to make it into iron man ... suggestion for the iron man suit and visibility .. add cell phone cameras to the surface and put small monitors in the brow of the faceplate .. then you get a panorama view by looking up a bit .... add a heat sink and some lap top fans and you get suit cooling by airflow as well .. include a camel back water bottle in the rear (cold water added cooling) and have the mouth piece on the jaw line ... add a mic for speaker mode and of course head phones for hearing ... you can literally then put the controls on the wrist computer as digit sliders with buttons for lights etc ...
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!p.s. Sorry for the duplicate I just want to make sure you got it my message.
“No need to get fancy” creates a table with four two piece legs recessed into the top 🤣
Somebody please tell Adam what a "Bowden Tube" is.
So Adam, I believe it's a PLA called SilkPLA that makes all kinds of nice color anodized aluminum PLA.
The other option is to actually print in Aluminum and have it Anodized or Power Coated any color you want.
I love that so many people are using my winder design! It’s so cool to see an exact copy of the thing I was iterating on my kitchen table every morning in photos from around the world!
Just didn't work for me! The lead screw didn't traverse the spool properly and so filament built up at the edges of the spool and then dropped loosely into the middle, creating huge, loose loops. Eventually did away with the entire lead screw assembly and layered the filament by hand.
Just checking, were you winding onto an empty Bambu spool? The travel of the leadscrew is 61mm and a larger or smaller target spool won’t wind as nicely. Another thing that helps is to keep some tension on the filament either with the TPU wipers, the sandpaper trick that Adam used or just holding the source spool loosely with your fingers. Otherwise IDK, glad you got something working!
@@GekoPrime You and I have discussed this on Printables, but yes, lots of tension on donor spool, used the wipers too. I tried numerous different sized (width and inside diameter) spools... Bambu, Matterhackers, Voxel. There only ones that worked were the self-printed spools from Bambu and others from Printables, and an original Bambu spool. They only worked when layered by hand. I printed the respooler in PLA.
What was your reason for creating it? I just throw the whole 3KG spool on my printer - does yours maxx out at 1KG rolls, or something else?
I think the tensioning system could be a bit better if there is more consistency, it now a bit jerky and it doesnt wind as nice as it could.... maybe add some small weight in between pressing down on the filament so the tension is more constant?
Othwerwise very nice design!
While I assume you probably know this, you can set the slicer to only print the support filament for the interface layers, rather than the whole support. That drastically cuts down on the number of filament changes.
Up Voting this bad boy, its suck a great time saver (and the really expensive support filament)
Also when printing PLA you can use any regular PETG as support instead of that expensive PLA support filament.
That's what Adam said when he explained it, I think!
No, that results in more filament changes. The filament still needs to be changed at the interface points, except now, the filament changes from support to interface and from interface to part instead of just from support to part.
@@gownerjones1450you're forgetting about the perg time it saves.
The way Adam works all alone, with just the camera for company gives me real "The Martian" vibes.
He makes everyone else seem lazy. 😆
My absolute favorite thing about build videos with Adam is knowing that I am not the only one who spouts random sound bytes while working. "Happy? HAPPY. HAPPY. JOY. JOY." Broke me.
Definitely wasn't expecting a Ren and Stimpy cameo
I was not ready for the random Ren and Stimpy "Happy happy joy joy" and no, you're not alone, I do this kind of random stuff too. 🤣
Same. For me it's renditions of songs in the voice of Swedish Chef from the Muppets.
@@MerennulliIt's so weird to read your comment... I pretty much *never* do Swedish Chef jokes (I'm more of a Statler & Waldorf guy) but just a few hours ago I was annoying my wife with my version of him singing "A Thing Called Love" by The Darkness. It was a terrible, terrible thing to behold, and I loved every moment of it, LOL. 😂
Nobody Expects a Ren and Stimpy Cameo, its like the Spanish Inquisition...@@brookep1
the end, where he got worried about the noise and then realized it was his build working properly and became excited about it was one of the reasons I like watching him. He's so genuine and it makes it really fun to watch.
It's fun how animated Adam gets when he's excited!
Amazing how far 3D printers have come in 10 years. My first home built printer required me to program an Arduino every time I printed. My first commercial printer was $2K and so frustrating to use it mostly sat in my closet. My $100 ender3's are phenomenal.
Agreed. Out of my 5 printers, the $100 Ender 3 Pros are the workhorses. They’re not fancy, no network, no ABL, no touch screen but they work 100% of the time. The $500 and $700 printers are ALWAYS broken down.
Same the only thing I wish is that it could do 500mm/s lmao. How fast is yours?
@@c1ph3rpunkI went with the new Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo and I can't get good prints out of it for the life of me
I started with a Homers/Tevo Tarantula E3 clone. I ended up having to mod it to death. TheTarantula finally gave up the ghost and I bough a Sovol SV06. The Sovol prints all day and night without any issues. The Sovol requires very little maintinance and mods, and it printed all the parts to bring the Tarantula back to life. The Trarantula already has a MKS Nano V3 board, and it is targeted for a dual belt drive Z axis, a Sailfin extruder, and a Hero Me hot end carrage.
CTC Makerbot clone purchased in 2012 is still running..... I do have to run a warmup cycle though because the set temperature of 215 drops below 200 and you can hear its unhappy. Leave it a minute or so to warmup and overcool and warmup again and its all good. Still use the original makerware software because it just works and does what I need. Although the x3g files are a pain if i forgot a setting have to reslice.
You don’t need glue with the textured plate, one of the main advantages is you don’t need glue. The material sticks when hot but releases when the plate cools, so make sure you let the plate cool.
I was thinking the same thing, I don't have that many prints on mine yet but I have done some flat objects with both PLA and ASA that were as wide as the entire plate and didn't have any problems with thim popping off until the plate cooled and then they just slid off
Yeah I kept thinking why TF is he needing a scraping table. You don't need to scrape with PEI just wash with soap and water when it starts not sticking.
@@MattBruman yeah all the lines should just pop off or brush off when cool and you shouldn't need to clean it often either.
How did he manage to buy a textured plate, and think it is the best plate without really knowing how to use it? If you put glue on it, it is just like any of the other bambu plates.
Glue really makes it more reliable. I only apply once a week and keep machines on all day. I will never glance in to see if my 7.00 worth of filament is properly attached again. Even if it works 99 percent of the time that is 3-5 items a week for me and I don't need that for 30 seconds of stick time every seven days
it's just cheap insurance. Especially if you're using oddball filaments I've had plenty pull off early on the X1C especially if it's near the edges because I don't think it heats the same out there.
I can only imagine being in a shop with Adam. Whenever you hear the impromptu percussion you know it’s serious brainstorming time
You definitely undersold the nesting done on that print. That was so nicely stacked in there, so impressive.
all you do is hit auto arrange lol not too impressive
@@kordellgreen9794 Clearly you didn't pay much attention to the plate because there's *no way* the auto-arrange capability of Bambu Studio would give you that arrangement. Notice the parts nested inside other parts? And some parts overhanging other parts? While I haven't actually loaded the .3mf file in Bambu Studio to know for sure I wouldn't be surprised in the least if Bambu Studio complains with "errors" about multiple parts being too close.
@@kordellgreen9794Ah, I don't have one so I have to nest my CNC stuff myself. Printing the one part at an angle within a nesting algorithm is still impressive .
@@Kloberman Bambu Studio pops up errors for all sorts of shit that will work just fine. You can adjust the maximum spacing between parts anyway in every slicer I've used. PrusaSlicer's auto arrange will do everything you just described, like nesting parts inside or overhanging others.
I like the design aesthetic of the winder.
Additionally I like the color choice you used, looks like old time brass-ish metal parts.
I thought the same, makes me want to make one just to watch it in action. Maybe get it to wind/unwind some nice metallic thread?
My absolute favorite part about Adams newfound love of 3D printing is his whole-hog approach. I'm sure that for everything we're seeing here, there's hours and hours of him reading and learning and watching youtube videos from more experienced enthusiasts before ever touching a printer. It makes me feel more comfortable in my own habits of making myself a practical encyclopedia of something I am interested in before ever touching a single part of it.
THAT’S GREAT AND ALL, BUT ADAM NEEDS TO STOP SCREAMING IN HIS VIDEOS. THEY ARE WAY TOO LOUD.
@@GardenGuy1943says the person shouting about it...
This is the way. People often forget that we spend years perfecting and failing in order to complete projects and troubleshoot quickly down the road.
I love seeing people sketch stuff when they know what they're doing. 14:00 was awesome to see.
It bothered me way too much when Adam mis-drew the last diagonal line, very glad he finally noticed. :)
I miss the thing with the white or silver pen on blue paper. A quality of life thing though: I have put the bin for the scraps on the side. I wouldn't put it behind there - who will go back there to empty it?
@@kataseikohow will go back there to empty it? adam savage will.
yea i'm really glad he included it
As a hobbyist seamstress I like that 3d printists are making bobbin winders
Man, I missed his doodles from mythbusters. Watching him draw plans always brings me back.
It's awesome that Adam is still making stuff and very clearly is still passionate about it. It's wholesome and motivating, amazing video!!
I love the ingenuity of the solutions Adam is adding to the 3d
printing farm he has
Little suggestion: when you run a filament guide through an enclosure box, leave some of the guide tubing protrude inside the box. It will allow a smooth path, and avoid a potential kink forming where the filament goes through the box wall.
If you wanted to get really fancy with the "scrape table" (that's what I call my version of this), you could route the surface of the table with the shape of the various plates you have. That way the plates drop in and are flush with the table surface, and you don't have to hold them while scraping.
This sounds just like such an Adam thing to do! This combined with something like Arctyrus's comment about a pull-out shelf under the X1's would be the ultimate! ❤👍
what about magnetizing it?
@@gleechy I like how you think. 😁
What about a slide out shelf, with a recess to hold the bed, that has a scraper fitted on the edge so all you have to do is place the bed on it, push it in and out and the filament is removed!
K.I.S.S. Just put a couple stop blocks on the corners just like the X1C and P1P have on the build plate and no worries.
14:30 Adam Savage is my Spirit Animal. Like I tell my boss; not /everything/ needs to be 3D printed. Sometimes all you need is a bit of plywood and a stapler. As for your table solution; have you considered making a pull-out shelf under the two X1s? I did it for mine, with just enough clearance between the shelf and the top for a cutting mat and another printplate. Pull it out, put your full plate on it to clear while popping the empty plate into the printer.
The blue anodized aluminum color is almost impossible to match with a color filament. The yellow, red, purple and green are easy to replicate using many different brands of silk PLA without having to sand and paint.
This made me wonder if it's possible to buy or make powdered anodized aluminum. You could then mix it into the plastic or maybe use it with some adhesive for a coating.
@@LanceThumping I am by no means smart, but that sounds like a really good idea
I've tried a few, trying to get a decent blue metallic look. Most are way too light colored. The only thing I've tried that was close was Geeetech PLA Royal Blue. If you print it too fast, like most silks, it can end up not being very shiny at all. Your mileage may vary. I print silks on an old printer that runs around 60mm/s. My newer printer that runs at 250mm/s+ usually makes it look dull unless I slow way down on the outside walls.
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!
be careful with SILK filaments, AIUI they have a lot of additives (tpu?) that make their layer adhesion awful. you have to print them very slow and very hot.
@@shanemshortI've never found any issue with silk materials. I usually run all PLA at 200°C at the same speed and get good results for standard and silk.
A lot of progress with the 3D print farm this time around! Love the improvements, and excited to see even more use of them with your builds.
I love the Ren and Stimpy happy happy joy joy. It's a joy to watch Adam work.
For those interested in the fillament winder, you can print ball bearings using some airsoft bbs (6mm) or brass bbs (4.5mm).
(Adam roughly sketching a waste filament chute design)
Me - "Oh cool. He's probably going to pass it off to someone to mock up in CAD and somehow print in pieces on the Bambu."
(Cut to Adam working with plywood in the shape of his sketch)
Me - "Ah. I forgot this was Adam for a moment. That one's on me."
3D printing isn’t the best method for a lot of things.
@@conorstewart2214 Totally agree. I was just in the 3D printing headspace given the title of the video. Then I realized how big it ended up needing to be once he did install it and thought "yeah, he chose the right approach."
These are my favourite type of videos on your channel, they are just very relaxing for me to watch, I don't even do any 3d printing or anything like that, but still really enjoy watching you do this kind of work. Thank you.
I love watching you solve problems, you can see the backlash taken out of the gears and everything start to spool up.
This man loves dry filament. Tbf I don't know how my filament in unaffected.. but I run a print farm in the UK in a room above a cellar. The gaps in the floor boards are so big I can see down into the cellar which is open to the outside, there's no sealed door on it because it used to be used as a barrel store with a big slope ramp. The house is from the 1700s so that's why. Anyway my filament is just sitting on a shelf and humidity is 65-75 indoors in the summer and my filament is just fine?? PETG and ABS. Some of the lesser used colours are a year or more old but they print absolutely flawlessly on the x1c still. I have invested in a dehumidifer for this winter but that's mainly for my cardboard packaging and papers as I can feel it get damper over winter
I've been wondering this too, then I left a roll out in the open for about a year and it started printing like crap and getting ground up by the bowden extruder gear, might not be as noticeable if you use a direct drive extruder but it does seem to get softer
I THINK (sometimes) that PLA is more absorbent than PETG and ABS.
On the other side I am in Scotland with similar humidity and I have to dry quite a lot of filament, even PLA sometimes but especially nylons, polycarbonate, PETG and especially TPU.
Drying PLA is stupid. It's literally engineered around it's hygroscopic properties.
From what I understand from watching many a video, there's not really a concern with needing to try and keep it dry, especially with how quickly he seems to use it. Unless he's using something that absolutely gobbles up water, PLA can be in an average environment for months (Think I've heard up to a couple years from a couple makers). PETG is pickier for sure, and his hotbox is perfect for those.
Amazing video. Your panicked "pause, what was that!" look on your face at 30:13 mark was priceless and I guarantee everyone that is into 3d printing has had that exact same look when they heard something that isnt normal at all when their printers are going. Happy Printing!
Adam if you load the same filament in those empty bays of the AMS it can automatically switch to the other same filament when it runs out and continue printing so you don't waste time changing out and resuming. 👍
Awesome build Adam! I appreciate you showing your sketching out the funnel. Definitely helps viewers like myself learn to improve their own making processes 👍
Damm... 22:05 "Who needs to get fancy?" . It shows how much Adam got experienced. He on the first seasons was all about fancy solutions. I like that middle place.
I like the idea for the PEI table, however I'd have made it foldable or collapsible just so that I don't "store" things on it and then find it's occupied when I need to use it.
I’m not sure if there are any ramifications but a little pull out table under the machine might be handy, similar to how some kitchen counters have the little pull out cutting board. Except the PEI board will be a lot less gross. :P
LOL vertical plain syndrome LOL
@@johnfalco9528 lol this is an amazing term for it
So far my favorite metallic has been Hatchbox. I have a metallic gold that I used to great effect. Use very small layers, .16, .12 if using the .4 mm nozzle. Since the hose connectors are a relatively small part you can go as fine as you want and it not take 8 days. Oh, and print the perfect waste basket, using vase mode.
I switched to textured pei plates while printing face shields during the pandemic. I quickly realized what a no-brainer it was to have an extra sheet on hand. I would simply swap plates and put the printed plate on my post-processing bench and then start the next print. I’m no longer in a rush to clean the plate and I let my prints cool naturally. Keeping my plates rotating and having proper time to clean without damaging the pei, I haven’t had to buy new sheets since. It’s honestly the best upgrade I’ve ever done.
Ever since I started 3d printing I KNEW Adam would 1. fall in love immediately and 2. go ham and buy a whole bunch of printers and make a farm asap.
This man screams ADHD and he is still successful and great to watch. He gives me hope for myself.
It was probably very difficult for him to get organized, and I'll bet being organized is one of his top priorities, he probably organizes religiously, if ADHD person starts slacking off in that regard, the downward spiral is that things pile up very quickly and once they're in a pile, procrastination begins, and more piles appear, nothing gets done...
@@dingdingdingdiiiiing Stop talking about me! 🤣
Wow I am amazed how that mechanism was 3D printed! It's come such a long way. Makes me want to get into it.
It's never been easier to get up and running. You can get a high quality printer for a fraction of the cost it would have cost you just a few years ago. Most of the modern printers have sensors that fix the pain points of setting up a printer. It's at the point now where you plug it in a press print.
Wish I had 1/2 of Adam’s knowledge and life experience. SUCH a good guy!
I’m absolutely loving the 3D printer content on the channel please keep uploading about 3D printing in general!
bambu now has a setting so instead of purging and wasting the material you can have it print something else that you don't care what the color is. Pretty cool option
He'll end up with a bunch of rainbow benchys.
That was a fascinating watch. Thank you!
Seeing your issue with the plates from your Bambu printers gives me an idea for a remedy to minor problem I have. I use a Sovol printer and the hotbed is massive. It takes a long time to cool down so I can detach a completed print (depending on the material - PETG is clingy until it cools). Like you said, if the printer's not printing it's wasting time. But the solution is easy - I'll get another PEI plate. As soon as one print is done I'll take the plate out to cool and put in the other one so I can start the next print. It's like baking plastic cookies!
I'm so glad to see that not the only person who thinks kinetically... also the distraction from odd sounds is SOOO REAL!!! Thank you Adam!
Love to see your embracing 3d printing in your own way.
Felicitaciones Adam!!! Exelente como siempre su trabajo. Saludos desde Argentina
Those 12 volt Makita drills are simply the best. I have 2 complete sets and I use them daily. It's a shame that they don't make them anymore. I rebuild them if they fail. 👍👍
Adam you're a national treasure. I recently purchased the X1 Carbon and I love watching your videos. Keep 'em coming!
Adam, doubt you will see this, but thank you. Growing up I couldn't experiment much. Farm life kept me too busy, when your Mythbusters came out, it became a family staple for our house because we all loved the science behind it. Now as an adult, i try keep the child like joy and wonder you have for building and making. Thank you for fostering that in literally millions of people.
I built my first blacksmith forge and lit it off.. had a "you" moment where i had to check if i was missing an eyebrow.. I was. Learned my lesson that day lol. Fun thing to do, 3d print inverse shapes and cast into them wax for molds (easier to sand the print lines out of wax than plastic). I sand cast off those to make metal busts/parts. Take care from a life long fan.
Buy a few extra PEI sheets for your Bambus. The new, improved gold colored version. Clean them with hot soapy water, shouldn't require much if any scraping.
They shouldn’t need glue either like it appears he uses on them. They would be easy to remove if there was no glue, they would just slide off when cool.
Try only making the interface layer use support material. That will result in fewer filament changes because it will make the supports out of the regular filament until the last few support layers, where it touches the print. This also saves on using more support material.
I think that is what he explained. The problem is if you have complex parts. The support filament is good if you have simple overhangs that are mostly just horizontal, as they only require a few layers with the support interface but if you have steep angled or curved overhangs or lots of overhangs at different heights then your support interface is on a lot of layers and hence need lots of filament changes.
Yes I agree. Heard him say in the beginning, "hundreds" of filament changes.
Love it that the chute was made with wood and relied on core hands-on fabrication skills!!
Love seeing the process in making improvements to a project 👏👏
The real impressive part of this is how fast and well you drew up that 3d sketch of the funnel. Started designing my own parts recently and Im so awful at drawing that I just draw a bunch of 2D POVs. Gonna try to apply some techniques you used in that sketch in the future
If you already have orthographic views, you should practice with them to make isometric views. Once you do a few of them, you'll quickly get the hang of sketching isometric views by hand. Start with simple designs then do a few that are more complex. This isn't art, so really if you can create the orthographic views, there's no reason you draw the iso views up front once you understand how to draw in 3 planes. You're actually doing the same thing except you're drawing the top view along a 60 degee axis at your origin. The front views are exactly the same except circle are ovals. This stuff used to be taught in drafting classes. Now nobody knows how to make drawings because of automation with with 3D modeling. It's a shame because people can't make quick sketch on bar napkins. When I was young, I alway checked to see if I had napkins in my pockets from a night of drinking.
Maybe watch a few videos on converting orthographic to isometric.
th-cam.com/video/IT2_c6jQrz4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ADTWStudy
You could also practice on Iso graph paper.
www.amazon.com/Isometric-Notebook-Equilateral-Triangles-Measuring/dp/1096640686/
I highly recommend Bambu Lab's Textured PEI plate.
No glue needed and great adhesion!
I bought a Lightyear Garolite (G10) sheet for my X1C. Its phenomenal in its ability to stick to anything without glue that I've thrown at it while it's heated but release with barely a touch when cool. ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU, everything I've used so far is perfect and the surface finish on the part that contacts the build plate is perfectly smooth. It uses the Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate setting in Bambu Slicer.
The plate table could have been designed to be bigger than the tray, so the scraps fall into gaps around the edge. Add sides with a cleanout and it becomes its own trash bin.
26:00 As someone who's had 3d printers for about 12 years or so at this point. No, not really :D They spend a lot of time doing nothing these days. Now I mostly print when I actually need to, not because it's fun.
Same with me but I’ve only been printing a few years, there is no point just filling the time printing stuff you don’t need. It’s almost like saying if you have a car you need to keep it running all the time, no it’s just wasting money. Also the printer requires less maintenance if run less, so running prints for no reason is just increasing wear and wasting filament.
Nice work Adam. I built my own multi material printer. Used it for a few prints I can't stomach the waste. Now I just use it for prints when there's only a couple of color swaps. Hope you enjoy it 👍
Cool stuff, Adam! I just got a new Bambu Lab P1S a few months ago and I love it. But I have a lot of filament on spools that don't fit into the AMS, so that spool winder will come in handy when I can get around to making it. I also really like the big dry box storage cabinet. My current setup is a single-spool dryer and a plastic Hefty bin with Damp-Rid and a bunch of dessicant packets in it, which seems to be working fine for PLA and PETG so far. I love seeing people solve problems with simple and practical solutions. Keep 'em coming!
The shiny filaments, also known as silk do not have the same mechanical properties as normal PLA.
They are just for show, I wouldn't make anything useful from them at all. Unless it's to test how quick it breaks. Lol.
The next best thing I suppose in your case is printing with normal PLA and then spray painting the pieces with a carbon paint and then electroplate them to get that real shiny metal look.
If he's going to go through all of that extra work I would honestly go as far as using PETG filament instead as anything I've made with PLA has broken pretty easily if handled slightly rougher than nessecary. Though that might also be due to those prints being generally a bit thinner and living in the deserts of southern AZ.
Still cannot get over how fast those Bambu printers are. It's insane.
I have that same drill/driver set. It’s probably 12 years old at this point and still exceptionally reliable for small jobs
ProTip™: Do NOT lean on the whole PEI sheet with your oily, greasy hand when scraping stuff off of it - UNLESS you give it a good wipe with IPA or some soapy water afterwards.
Either use gloves if you want to put it back to work right away, or only touch it at the edges.
Greasy fingerprints make first layers fail. This applies to smooth and textured PEI.
I don’t even understand why he even needs to use the scraper? On mine once it cools it isn’t even stuck down any more, and even if it’s still hot it only takes a small flex to pop everything off
Adam, you and your team are great. Keep up the great content!
I love Adam's vocal inanities, their so endearing! I do a lot of odd muttering myself when I'm poking around in my project room
Great video , that sequence at 13:00 of you sketching the funnel was super nice to see!
Those are my absolute favorite mechanical pencils! I used them all throughout college.
you rock Adam been watching you for 20 years dude. Heres to another 20!!
One of the most amazing upgrades I have done for my 3D printer was first a ruby and now a diamond nozzle. The diamond is weirdly enough thermally more conductive than the brass that surrounds it and delivers amazing print quality, even with abrasive or otherwise complcated filaments. I can recommend them wholeheartedly, even though they are somewhat pricey (~$40 for ruby and $120 for diamond). Just like the diamond tipped saw blade, the diamond printer nozzle is an amazing upgrade.
Where did you get the diamond one from?
Love the Ren and Stimpy "happy, happy, joy, joy 😂
I love seeing the big disk sander slowly slowing down in the background while working on the funnel
I'm amazed at your lightning fast draft drawing.
These are like giant bobbins! It's really cool to see a gaint version of the bobbin winder that's in my sewing mechine.
Polymaker is a US based company and they have an incredible selection of colors and they have silk pla and metallic pla.. Their prices have gotten more reasonable. About the same cost as Bambu Lab filament. A lot of their spools are card board, but you can run some electricians vinyl tape along the rims and they will work fine in the AMS.
I love watching your thought process
Something that might help with the PEI sheet cleaning table is some sort of heatsink top surface to cool the plate quickly before you start removing prints. I usually use the metal chassis of our front-loading clothes drier since that is near by to my printer. For your table, maybe a heatsink with short fins, mounted with the fins down. And a blower on the side with duct to blow air between the fins. For power, use an adapter for the batteries that you use on your handheld power tools. I don't know if I explained it well...
I'm happy to see all of Adam's recently learned puppeteering on display.
I love 3D printed Adam protecting the filament.
"My dry docks, I mean, my dry box" Must be all of those cruise ship videos. 😂
I need to get one of these Bambu printers. Quality of that filament winder was awesome. Great work on the setup.
I have not seen a hand drawn ISO Drawing done by hand like what you did in forever!!! I love doing this when I am trying to get a concept out of my head to then scale it accordingly!! I was also hoping you were going to disign it in Fusion360 and print the shoot but I like the wood better. I always enjoy these types of vids and they inspire me to do something similar with my 3-ender 3's and CR10Smart.
Every time I watch Adams videos and see his shop. I get so jealous and envious. It’s funny really. We don’t ever think a few things. 1 he was a tv star builder (needs lots of stuff). 2 he has been doing and collecting these tools for decades. 3. It’s his life it really is. Expectations versus reality is huge! And he’s constantly working and making money off his projects. Baby steps people baby steps. Gotta start small to be huge! And I just saw he changed his ending. I miss the old one!
I love the automatic paying-on gear on that filament spool winder thing
For the anodized aluminum look I would mix some resin with the pigment mixed in and paint it onto the 3d printed backing. Resin with mica powder I think would look very close to what you're looking for. OR you could use the printer to make a mold and cast the parts completely out of resin if you need super sharp edges.
I love the set up Adam, and I'm more than a little jealous of you having not one but two X1 carbons
Sitting there staring at a nearly completed, rather complex print project and realizing it's not working properly, then saying "I think I might have downloaded the wrong file" is so incredibly relatable.
i love how you build stuff for your stuff with more of your stuff
My favorite part was the cable holders that fell off behind the 3D printers, that is the most relatable thing I have ever seen
Glad to see an Anycubic machine next to the bambus. I have an x1C but my first printer was an Anycubic Predator and I wouldn't change the struggle of learning to print with a printer like that for anything.
Absolutely love this workshop!
It's exciting to see you getting into 3D printing so much!
Hi. Sink some magnets or magnetic strip into the plate table then you don't have to hold the plate down with your hand.
Hand grease affects adhesion of the prints.
CC3D silk sapphire blue may not be mirror like enough but thought I'd mention it as my favorite blue. Used it for my enclosure joints and I love it.
A darn fine day in the office if I've ever seen one! Good stuff!
i was waiting for adam to get into 3d printing even before he got his first 3d printer and it is amazing
My favorite part of these videos is watching his brain work lol. Like how he tackles problems in such a whimsical and calm fashion.
Growing up on Mythbusters its so awesome seeing Adam being Adam. Such an inspirational person
this is the beginning this journey never stops anymore
i also just printed the same winder ~20mins before this video got uploaded, it is awesome