A reason to pick gyroid is that the infill is all connected and only one volume so the resin would flow between pockets. You also use it if you want to fill a print with sand or something for weight.
Just a little tip when printing in bambulabs, u dont need to add a pause for this result, instead just change top layers to "0". and it will print the part with no top layers making it do the same thing you did.
For the 3d infill, I would almost suggest doing a .8 or 1mm nozzle, get thicker lines so it can pop more. This turned out really well, might have to do it myself
Love to see this as a 3d printing enthusiast! One piece of advice to make your printing workflow easier if you decide to use this in the future, you can remove the top layers of the print to see the infill if you go to "Strength" >> "Top shell layers" and set it to 0. You can tell it has worked when you slice the plate
Super cool! Since you mentioned that different portions of the 3D print were separated from each other, maybe you could try to inject the resin into the different sections with different colors! If you turn up the infill width too and do that with translucent dyes maybe it will look like stained glass?
@@peterbrownwastaken DOWN BOY! You are NOT allowed to blow an artery having a Joygasm! We need you alive and capable of making more Projects like this!!! 😄😁😆😅😂🤣
The reason the person said to use Gyroid is because it's an interesting patten that doesn't create any pockets, the resin can freely flow through it all. Also the easier method than pausing the print would be to just set your top shell layers to 0
Those handles turned (no pun intended) out great! A quick tip, there is a built in setting in Bambu Studio to print with no top (or bottom) layer. It makes sense to have a bottom layer in your case to contain the poured resin. To make it so there is no solid top layer go to the "Strength" tab -> then the "Top/bottom shells" section -> then set "Top shell layers" to 0. This will make it so the infill goes to the top without the need to pause. This also means that if you set the bottom shell layers to 0 you can have a print that you can see through/pass air through. Gyroid is really neat, I hope you give it a try!
I've been making pen blanks with this method for years. Having come from conventional cut and veneer inlays this method is leaps and bounds above that. The only limit is your imagination! Fun thing to try. Mix up a load of different colours in separate pots and add them in any order you like to the resin blank. You end up with a kind of tie dye effect once turned. Great video as always!
This is what I suggested to you about 5 years ago, except I actually suggested modeling the "infill" manually I stead of using default settings. I made several blanks for my uncle to turn, and they turned out amazing. I'm glad this turned out well!
I want to see that maze one with different colors on each section and I want to see one of the other in fills filled with transparent resin. Maybe a lamp? Very cool.
i'd love to see more of these with different infill patterns, perhaps even colour matched with different beverages ie; red, black and white for coke etc.
I think the black and green handle looks great. The yellow one looks nice, but I was a little disappointed that it didn't have more of a honeycomb look after it was turned. That is what I like about turning different materials on the lathe as you never know what the finished product will look like. Love your channel. Keep these great videos coming.
Hah, I JUST did the same thing with my vacuum chamber for a video I am working on now (giving you a nod for something specific to it as well) - poured a removable silicone bottom on it! This came out really cool. Love the idea!
I remember meeting you at the first Opensauce and mentioning an idea for something similar! That was before you got all in on the 3D Printing bandwagon though, I'm really happy to see all the possibilities it's bringing out for you. If you want the lines to be more visible you can always turn on advanced settings, go to strength > line width > sparse infill and increasing that value will produce thicker lines
the nerd in me has wanted a 3d printer for ages, but I don't have one, yet...saving up. The yellow black one looks like snake skin, but it reminds you of the corncob ;-) the pattern on the second one is my favorite. Merry Christmas to you and your family
as just a consumer, I cant recommend Bamboo printers enough. They really are the closest printers you can get right now to be hassle free with amazing print quality. And Bamboo customer support is top notch too, which makes me like them even more. Just wanted to put that out there because I almost never trust sponsored products to be as good as content creators say they are, but Bamboo has really lived up to the hype for me personally.
Even if you don't make a video out of it, you really should try this using that gyroid infill that BScatterplot suggested. The geometry of it should give you a consistent pattern on the exterior that changes subtly as you reduce the diameter.
Very cool! Love that green with the black print. I was expecting a different honeycomb as well and after rewinding, I think it's the 3D Honeycomb that changed the outcome. Either way, love them both and appreciate the video.
I think the reason gyroid was picked is that it's the same from every direction - hilbert and honeycomb are directional, so the pattern isn't consistent across the entire piece. That said, hilbert looks fantastic. I'd be interested to see adaptive cubic with a complex shape (since it changes infill density based on the shape of the walls). Since internal walls get infill as well, you could make a pattern that makes adaptive cubic look cool and then just wrap it in the box shape you actually wanted to turn. I wonder if you could also print a top box with some toothpick-like things to help agitate the resin and release the bubbles a bit.
You might wanna look into the software combo rhino 3D with grasshopper, it allows your to make some interesting lattice shapes and you could even predict how the pattern looks like by using a boolean (this could also work in bambu lab).
This was so cool to see. My fav is also the black and green one. I am surprised you didn't put them in a vacuum chamber to get all the bubbles out. It would of probably helped a lot.
What a great idea, they look so good. Surprised I haven't noticed this comment yet, but you don't need to use the pause trick, you can just set the top layers to 0 and it won't print any layers over the top of the infill
I'm wondering if you could 3D print an SVG image to be a few inches thick, and then follow the same process. You'd get an outline of whatever image or lettering you were to print. It would get warped along the edges as it curves, but you'd get a mirror image of it on either side. Or even doing 2/4 instances perpendicular to one another, you could have 4 'faces' for whatever imagery you wanted to include. Print it out, fill with resin, get something with 4 unique faces.
These turned out great!!! Ever since I got a 3D printer, people have suggested I use it with pen turning somehow. This gives me a great idea on how to make some really neat pen blanks! Now to see if it works…❤
Peter, instead of pausing near the end of the print as you did. In Bambu Studio on the left side you will see Quality, Strength, Speed, Support and Other tabs. Go to the Strength tab, in that tab go down to Top/Bottom Shells and change Top shell layer to 0. Then slice plate. You can even change the infill density (Sparse Infill Density) to a lower %. Have fun experimenting.
That's such a great idea! I'm planning on giving out measuring sets as gifts and wasn't thrilled with the options for the silicone casting mold choices. I'll print out some boxes to custom sizes for a small fraction of the price of the mold, even with 27 handles to do. - Chris
Nice combo! I think you might have interesting outcomes in the resulting pattern if you 3d-print a vertical blank, basically a cylinder with a nice infill pattern and no top surface. Also, having a round blank might make it easier to turn it in the beginning.
Not sure about yours specifically but some slicers have a "vase mode," where the whole print is a shell one continuous pass. Super niche uses but I bet it would make for some easy molds
I did see a couple of what looked like voids on the green handle. If they were bubbles, maybe putting the molds into a vacuum chamber would help pull any large bubbles out before pressure potting would be a good workflow.
3d printing ideas. 1) change the infill line width, make it wider and you can make the lines more prominent. You can easily go to 2x the nozzle with. 2) Try with PETG, better heat resistance
The blue handle is REALLY cool. I wonder if it would be possible to design a 3d print to make an actual "stained glass" effect so that the channels are separated enough that you could do a few different color pockets.
The Hilbert curve one turned out great. I hope you use this method in other future project… and actually use the gyroid infill this time ;) One side note. You can use infill percentage to basically scale the pattern. Might be handy if infill pattern looks too dense for the resin to properly penetrate (looked like it with honeycomb). Happy holidays!
There are so many cool things to do with 3dprinting! PLA doesn't have great temperature resistance. Though, the added epoxy is probably going to stabilize it enough that it won't matter. Personally, I'd recommend at least PETG, but more likely, ASA for a long term usable handle. They're both a more temperature resistant material and are typically more durable (because they're more impact resistant and less brittle). Would love to help out more if we can.
as others have said, you can just do 0 top layers to leave it open on top. Also, you can add a modifier in the slicer to set the last few mm to 0% infill, that would give you a lip around the pattern to allow for overfilling and self leveling for those patterns that are not contiguous.
You don't need to use the pause command, you just need to set the top layers to 0. Really fun to play with as you can make prints which expose the infill on all sides.
The honeycomb pattern would definitely benefit from one of those gradient PLA's. The ones that start purple at the bottom and eventually end up orange/yellow. You could also experiment with printing at a different orientation as well, perhaps with starting the print on the short side, or at an angle.
The green one turned out really well, if you turned up to Makers Central with those to sell I would definitely buy one. Also why hasn't someone made a vacuuming simulator yet for sawdust and resin strings?
These turned out really cool! PLA is a great material, but it doesn't generally appreciate being sanded or polished. But you get a great finish on those! I wonder if you could get more gloss on the plastic if you used PETG, though. PETG or even ASA both sand pretty well and you can get translucent PETG.
Holy cow, thanks for the shout-out! That turned out super cool!
Thank you for the suggestion!
A reason to pick gyroid is that the infill is all connected and only one volume so the resin would flow between pockets. You also use it if you want to fill a print with sand or something for weight.
Can’t wait to see the gyroid someday too! ;)
@@peterbrownwastaken plz do more of these
Hey all! I promise to follow up with the black gyroid mold I have and a mica pigment. (probably in a short)
Which color powder should I pick?
Just a little tip when printing in bambulabs, u dont need to add a pause for this result, instead just change top layers to "0". and it will print the part with no top layers making it do the same thing you did.
For the 3d infill, I would almost suggest doing a .8 or 1mm nozzle, get thicker lines so it can pop more. This turned out really well, might have to do it myself
Love to see this as a 3d printing enthusiast! One piece of advice to make your printing workflow easier if you decide to use this in the future, you can remove the top layers of the print to see the infill if you go to "Strength" >> "Top shell layers" and set it to 0. You can tell it has worked when you slice the plate
Super cool! Since you mentioned that different portions of the 3D print were separated from each other, maybe you could try to inject the resin into the different sections with different colors! If you turn up the infill width too and do that with translucent dyes maybe it will look like stained glass?
OH! YES YES YES
@@peterbrownwastaken DOWN BOY!
You are NOT allowed to blow an artery having a Joygasm!
We need you alive and capable of making more Projects like this!!!
😄😁😆😅😂🤣
The reason the person said to use Gyroid is because it's an interesting patten that doesn't create any pockets, the resin can freely flow through it all. Also the easier method than pausing the print would be to just set your top shell layers to 0
No, I think it would have been a good choice! Maybe I'll follow up with a short to show off the differences!
@@peterbrownwastaken And If you do , turn the print so that the length of the blank is in the Z-axis. Gyroid is mesmerizing to look at
@@HenkDeHauw and if printing upright you can make the blank cylindrical to begin with, saving resin and time on the lathe.
That's so cool Peter! Experimenting is always fun. Happy Holidays!
Happy Holidays Carl!
Thank you for the 360 bottle kit! It's a beautiful piece of hardware!
Those handles turned (no pun intended) out great! A quick tip, there is a built in setting in Bambu Studio to print with no top (or bottom) layer. It makes sense to have a bottom layer in your case to contain the poured resin. To make it so there is no solid top layer go to the "Strength" tab -> then the "Top/bottom shells" section -> then set "Top shell layers" to 0. This will make it so the infill goes to the top without the need to pause. This also means that if you set the bottom shell layers to 0 you can have a print that you can see through/pass air through. Gyroid is really neat, I hope you give it a try!
Very cool. I wonder if you could design a "funnel" edge into the top of the box to make your pouring a lot easier.
It would be super easy, barely an inconvenience.
What’s really cool about this method is that you can make prints stronger than injection molded parts if you just fill it while it’s left on the bed.
I've been making pen blanks with this method for years. Having come from conventional cut and veneer inlays this method is leaps and bounds above that. The only limit is your imagination!
Fun thing to try. Mix up a load of different colours in separate pots and add them in any order you like to the resin blank. You end up with a kind of tie dye effect once turned.
Great video as always!
After many years of me wondering about this, someone finally did it! Looks great Peter! I would love to see you play with this more!!
A trick you can play with is to have the infill extrude a thicker line so it would show up better. A bigger nozzle will also help get thicker infill.
This 3D printer saga is coming along really well. It might be worth a try to test all the patterns.
That was certainly unique! What a fun reveal.
I loved this idea! I really hope you try again with a bunch of different patterns! Merry Christmas to your family, Peter!
Those came out so cool! Would love to see clear resin and dark PLA colors.
Those both came looking great. When you first showed the second one, I said WOW just before you did. That one just pops!
14:53 It almost looks too thin, compared to how thick the black infill appears. Maybe double the support thickness, if you can in their slicer
This is what I suggested to you about 5 years ago, except I actually suggested modeling the "infill" manually I stead of using default settings. I made several blanks for my uncle to turn, and they turned out amazing. I'm glad this turned out well!
This just added about a thousand new projects to my list. Great idea.
Thank you so much for sharing!
I am so glad that I found you through a Drew Fishers video.
Thanks again and Happy Holidays!
FINALLY something to do with all my printer poop! send it to Peter! lol
I bet we can make something with printer poop...
Merry Christmas to you as well! You are always inspiring me with your beautiful projects! Keep up the amazing work!!
This is very cool, and I agree the green and black handle came out awesome.
teah i like the green one best too , merry christmas to both you and mrs brown.
Always a good day when Peter Brown drops a new video! Happy Holidays sir!!
Thank you Eric and Happy Holidays!
both of those turned out amazing!
Yeah, the one with the mica powder is miles better than the other. Wow!
Turned out great! Always love experimenting. Merry Christmas!
Good stuff Peter 🦾
I want to see that maze one with different colors on each section and I want to see one of the other in fills filled with transparent resin. Maybe a lamp?
Very cool.
This has given me a great idea! Thanks for showing us this technique
This is such a fun experiment, I just love things like this, thanks! 😀
Very interesting... and both projects look really cool! Have a very Merry Christmas! ♥
i'd love to see more of these with different infill patterns, perhaps even colour matched with different beverages ie; red, black and white for coke etc.
Cool! thanks for the video. Happy holidays, all. Hope wherever you are and whatever you are doing, you are well. Take care!
I'm going to have to try this! I've been wanting to get back into turning and I've been playing with my 3d printer for a few years now.
I think the black and green handle looks great. The yellow one looks nice, but I was a little disappointed that it didn't have more of a honeycomb look after it was turned. That is what I like about turning different materials on the lathe as you never know what the finished product will look like. Love your channel. Keep these great videos coming.
i got a snakeskin vibe off the honeycomb handle. but you're right ,the maze handle is the winner. the good news is snake-honey isn't a loser!
That's awesome, I just got a new 3D printer for my birthday from the wife and kids!
Hah, I JUST did the same thing with my vacuum chamber for a video I am working on now (giving you a nod for something specific to it as well) - poured a removable silicone bottom on it!
This came out really cool. Love the idea!
You've got to make a full bowl out of the resin and 3d printer infill.
Thanks for your videos this year i am always excited to see one of your videos 😊
Very cool idea using 3d printing and resin. In the settings you should be able to set the top layers to 0. Awesome job.
The green maze pattern handle is awesome! I'd love a set of kitchen knives with handles like that.
I remember meeting you at the first Opensauce and mentioning an idea for something similar! That was before you got all in on the 3D Printing bandwagon though, I'm really happy to see all the possibilities it's bringing out for you. If you want the lines to be more visible you can always turn on advanced settings, go to strength > line width > sparse infill and increasing that value will produce thicker lines
Next do rainbow colors. This is beautiful work as always. Happy Holidays to the Brown Family.
man the possibilities are endless merry Christmas and thank you.
I can't for the day when I can be just like when you grow up!!
But seriously, this is awesome.
Stunning handles, Peter! Truly amazing work! 😃
Merry Christmas!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The second handle, the black and green, the infill pattern you used is for flexible filaments.
Looks amazing, and is awesome when used with TPU.
the nerd in me has wanted a 3d printer for ages, but I don't have one, yet...saving up. The yellow black one looks like snake skin, but it reminds you of the corncob ;-) the pattern on the second one is my favorite. Merry Christmas to you and your family
as just a consumer, I cant recommend Bamboo printers enough. They really are the closest printers you can get right now to be hassle free with amazing print quality. And Bamboo customer support is top notch too, which makes me like them even more.
Just wanted to put that out there because I almost never trust sponsored products to be as good as content creators say they are, but Bamboo has really lived up to the hype for me personally.
Even if you don't make a video out of it, you really should try this using that gyroid infill that BScatterplot suggested. The geometry of it should give you a consistent pattern on the exterior that changes subtly as you reduce the diameter.
Definitely cuts down on resin use and looks awesome
Those turned out beautifully!!👍 Merry Christmas!! 🎄
Very cool! Love that green with the black print. I was expecting a different honeycomb as well and after rewinding, I think it's the 3D Honeycomb that changed the outcome. Either way, love them both and appreciate the video.
I think the reason gyroid was picked is that it's the same from every direction - hilbert and honeycomb are directional, so the pattern isn't consistent across the entire piece. That said, hilbert looks fantastic. I'd be interested to see adaptive cubic with a complex shape (since it changes infill density based on the shape of the walls). Since internal walls get infill as well, you could make a pattern that makes adaptive cubic look cool and then just wrap it in the box shape you actually wanted to turn.
I wonder if you could also print a top box with some toothpick-like things to help agitate the resin and release the bubbles a bit.
I think the black and yellow blank looks both like a tire tread and a black corn cob. Maybe it could be called the “Tirecorn” pattern 😅
Peter! Merry Christmas and a happy No Resin Projects In January! 😂❤
They look awesome. Nice job. I would love a shop tour when we out that way in the spring. Say hi to Mrs. Brown. Merry Christmas.
I know it's not a metal lathe , but the wedding rings still make my skin crawl.
You might wanna look into the software combo rhino 3D with grasshopper, it allows your to make some interesting lattice shapes and you could even predict how the pattern looks like by using a boolean (this could also work in bambu lab).
I would love to see more of these!
This was so cool to see. My fav is also the black and green one. I am surprised you didn't put them in a vacuum chamber to get all the bubbles out. It would of probably helped a lot.
What a great idea, they look so good. Surprised I haven't noticed this comment yet, but you don't need to use the pause trick, you can just set the top layers to 0 and it won't print any layers over the top of the infill
If you do a cylinder standing up, so 1.5 inch round by 5 you can get some really cool effects with it too.
The filling was so satisfying 👌
I'm wondering if you could 3D print an SVG image to be a few inches thick, and then follow the same process. You'd get an outline of whatever image or lettering you were to print. It would get warped along the edges as it curves, but you'd get a mirror image of it on either side. Or even doing 2/4 instances perpendicular to one another, you could have 4 'faces' for whatever imagery you wanted to include. Print it out, fill with resin, get something with 4 unique faces.
These turned out great!!! Ever since I got a 3D printer, people have suggested I use it with pen turning somehow. This gives me a great idea on how to make some really neat pen blanks! Now to see if it works…❤
You have GOT to save those chips. They look incredible!
You need a vibration table, for resin pouring. It will allow bubbles to escape and the resin will flow downward better/faster.
It almost looks like snake skin, stunning effect ❤
Peter, instead of pausing near the end of the print as you did. In Bambu Studio on the left side you will see Quality, Strength, Speed, Support and Other tabs. Go to the Strength tab, in that tab go down to Top/Bottom Shells and change Top shell layer to 0. Then slice plate. You can even change the infill density (Sparse Infill Density) to a lower %. Have fun experimenting.
That's such a great idea! I'm planning on giving out measuring sets as gifts and wasn't thrilled with the options for the silicone casting mold choices. I'll print out some boxes to custom sizes for a small fraction of the price of the mold, even with 27 handles to do. - Chris
These would also make really cool knife scales but you’ve sort of done that before. But could be a really pretty combo.
That's a nice idea putting silicone in the base of your pressure pot. I may be stealing that!
Nice combo! I think you might have interesting outcomes in the resulting pattern if you 3d-print a vertical blank, basically a cylinder with a nice infill pattern and no top surface. Also, having a round blank might make it easier to turn it in the beginning.
Not sure about yours specifically but some slicers have a "vase mode," where the whole print is a shell one continuous pass. Super niche uses but I bet it would make for some easy molds
Looks aMAZEing!
I did see a couple of what looked like voids on the green handle. If they were bubbles, maybe putting the molds into a vacuum chamber would help pull any large bubbles out before pressure potting would be a good workflow.
The difference in the glossiness between the PLA and resin in the green handle was unexpected and very attractive for something so subtle.
Micro mesh takes longer than most finishing, but man I think it's worth the effort!
Thank you , Peter .
🐺Loupis Canis .
Concentric infill filled from the top would be good. i have had this same idea in my brain for a while now, it looks good
3d printing ideas. 1) change the infill line width, make it wider and you can make the lines more prominent. You can easily go to 2x the nozzle with. 2) Try with PETG, better heat resistance
The blue handle is REALLY cool. I wonder if it would be possible to design a 3d print to make an actual "stained glass" effect so that the channels are separated enough that you could do a few different color pockets.
Super cool, you should definitely try gyroid infill with rainbow filament and a clear or black resin
The Hilbert curve one turned out great. I hope you use this method in other future project… and actually use the gyroid infill this time ;)
One side note. You can use infill percentage to basically scale the pattern. Might be handy if infill pattern looks too dense for the resin to properly penetrate (looked like it with honeycomb).
Happy holidays!
There are so many cool things to do with 3dprinting! PLA doesn't have great temperature resistance. Though, the added epoxy is probably going to stabilize it enough that it won't matter. Personally, I'd recommend at least PETG, but more likely, ASA for a long term usable handle. They're both a more temperature resistant material and are typically more durable (because they're more impact resistant and less brittle). Would love to help out more if we can.
as others have said, you can just do 0 top layers to leave it open on top. Also, you can add a modifier in the slicer to set the last few mm to 0% infill, that would give you a lip around the pattern to allow for overfilling and self leveling for those patterns that are not contiguous.
I would love to see a few more in fills!!
You don't need to use the pause command, you just need to set the top layers to 0. Really fun to play with as you can make prints which expose the infill on all sides.
I know the whole resin shavings inside of resin thing hasn't worked well before but these shavings REALLY look like they might work well for that.
Try some glow in the dark filament :D
I made a cool bookmark with glow in the dark filament.
There should be a short on my channel for it!
@@peterbrownwastaken I saw that, it looks great! I'll have to print a few of those off.
@@peterbrownwastaken I forgot to mention to give PETG a try as well. It's not as brittle as PLA and can tolerate a little more heat.
The black and green one definitely gives malachite vibes.
The honeycomb pattern would definitely benefit from one of those gradient PLA's. The ones that start purple at the bottom and eventually end up orange/yellow. You could also experiment with printing at a different orientation as well, perhaps with starting the print on the short side, or at an angle.
The green one turned out really well, if you turned up to Makers Central with those to sell I would definitely buy one. Also why hasn't someone made a vacuuming simulator yet for sawdust and resin strings?
I've wanted to do this for a while but I think you should use transparent or at least transfusent resin to reveal the pattern more
These turned out really cool! PLA is a great material, but it doesn't generally appreciate being sanded or polished. But you get a great finish on those! I wonder if you could get more gloss on the plastic if you used PETG, though. PETG or even ASA both sand pretty well and you can get translucent PETG.
Hell yea, Im so fucking early. I can still smell the wood and epoxy. Love to see you try new techniques for epoxy/3d print creations.
Rock on✨️💕✨️