A reason to pick gyroid is that the infill is all connected and only one volume so the resin would flow between pockets. You also use it if you want to fill a print with sand or something for weight.
Just a little tip when printing in bambulabs, u dont need to add a pause for this result, instead just change top layers to "0". and it will print the part with no top layers making it do the same thing you did.
In fact, if you set shell loops 0, bottom layers 0 and top layers 0, the printer will just print the infill, no sides/bottom/top :) You can do very curious thing with that trick.
The reason the person said to use Gyroid is because it's an interesting patten that doesn't create any pockets, the resin can freely flow through it all. Also the easier method than pausing the print would be to just set your top shell layers to 0
@@timplett1 since it's going to be turned on a lathe, I'd do a cylinder on it's side (with supports) for greater strength so the layer lines would run longways instead of cross-sectional. Being epoxy impregnated will, of course, help that if he does print a cylinder on end.
@@peterbrownwastaken If it was sufficiently cool, you should make a full video on it. Some people (myself included) do not watch short form vertical videos
For the 3d infill, I would almost suggest doing a .8 or 1mm nozzle, get thicker lines so it can pop more. This turned out really well, might have to do it myself
oooo I hope maybe we can get a follow up video, maybe he can try a bunch of nozzle sizes, I personally bet that its going to be a 'the bigger the better' sort of effect
When using nozzles that have a wide tip (not the bore) like those bimetal ones for example, you can crank up the line width quite a bit with good results. I print .6 lines with a .4 nozzle that way.
@@worthstream yup, I've played with bare infill before in projects and I would suggest running combinations of different settings to achieve the look you want by changing (infill) layer width, angle and percentage and maybe using ASA in place of PLA because it can withstand slightly higher temps won't fade in colour when exposed to UV and the best of all polishes to a great luster.
Super cool! Since you mentioned that different portions of the 3D print were separated from each other, maybe you could try to inject the resin into the different sections with different colors! If you turn up the infill width too and do that with translucent dyes maybe it will look like stained glass?
@@peterbrownwastaken DOWN BOY! You are NOT allowed to blow an artery having a Joygasm! We need you alive and capable of making more Projects like this!!! 😄😁😆😅😂🤣
Love to see this as a 3d printing enthusiast! One piece of advice to make your printing workflow easier if you decide to use this in the future, you can remove the top layers of the print to see the infill if you go to "Strength" >> "Top shell layers" and set it to 0. You can tell it has worked when you slice the plate
11:26 😂As someone who knows a little about PLA 3D prints, they will warp in a car. So like 90F+, they warp, they melt at 190-210C (Same temp as the nozzle). Not sure when it fully melts and I don't want to experiment with that XD. I do love the mixed media using 3 different "columns" of making. I was suspect of the herbert infill, but it does look aweeeesome. I'm looking forward to seeing more mixing of mediums
The Hilbert curve one turned out great. I hope you use this method in other future project… and actually use the gyroid infill this time ;) One side note. You can use infill percentage to basically scale the pattern. Might be handy if infill pattern looks too dense for the resin to properly penetrate (looked like it with honeycomb). Happy holidays!
Those handles turned (no pun intended) out great! A quick tip, there is a built in setting in Bambu Studio to print with no top (or bottom) layer. It makes sense to have a bottom layer in your case to contain the poured resin. To make it so there is no solid top layer go to the "Strength" tab -> then the "Top/bottom shells" section -> then set "Top shell layers" to 0. This will make it so the infill goes to the top without the need to pause. This also means that if you set the bottom shell layers to 0 you can have a print that you can see through/pass air through. Gyroid is really neat, I hope you give it a try!
Since your last video I upgraded my 3d printer to a bambu lab x1c. I couldn't really get too into it with my creality. What a change!!!!! This printer has been running what feels like nonstop since I opened it.
Another great video, and it looks awesome. My completely non sponsored endorsement for the bambu printers is I cannot recommend them enough. Design engineer by trade, and once my office got a bunch of the X1C and X1E printers, I and most of my team bought ourselves our own P1S for home. So easy to use after years of tinkering with other printers.
Ok, here's an idea. Not sure if it'd be worthwhile or not. What about instead of printing a long low box where there is a lot of material to remove, print a tall round cylinder that is closer to the final diameter? You'd save on resin and printing material, as well as time getting it down to the final shape. You could even print it the shape you want, just slightly oversized, so all you have to do is remove the outer 3D printed "form", and just round over the end. You could even model in the hole for the insert. That might need to be made a little smaller though. You probably wouldn't want the insert set in nothing but the 3D print, you'd want to make it slightly smaller so when you enlarge it, it takes off the "form" and leaves something better for the resin to bond to when you put the insert in.
Next step: combine all 3 loves. Make a 3D print with a helical hole (or multiple ones) that you can put a hardwood dowel in, then cast the whole thing in resin and turn it from there!
that looks absolutely wonderful and is a stellar idea. my favorite is also the black and green. i think the yellow hexagona pattern would look absolutely fantastic with a golden/orange clear resin, so it resembles a honeycomb for real! i don't know if anyone else has given this same suggestion yet, but i think an extremely cool twist on this concept would be custom-printed infills in the box, like tiling someone's name throughout in cursive in the print. then, when you lathe it, the outside will still have that curly burl-like effect, but on the inside, you can still see their name and it becomes clear.
Peter, instead of pausing near the end of the print as you did. In Bambu Studio on the left side you will see Quality, Strength, Speed, Support and Other tabs. Go to the Strength tab, in that tab go down to Top/Bottom Shells and change Top shell layer to 0. Then slice plate. You can even change the infill density (Sparse Infill Density) to a lower %. Have fun experimenting.
I think the black and green handle looks great. The yellow one looks nice, but I was a little disappointed that it didn't have more of a honeycomb look after it was turned. That is what I like about turning different materials on the lathe as you never know what the finished product will look like. Love your channel. Keep these great videos coming.
the ability to make the "outer surfaces" solid to hold the resin and an inner layer that is crosslinked allowing it to fill opens all sorta of fun possibilities. example: a bowl -- start with the one you showed in progress at one point... but make the body of it much thicker than the final piece will be, and do the interior with what ever fill design , fill it with resin. then "turn off" the outer layers on the lathe as you would normally, revealing the pattern of the infill. doing it like that would let you do all sorts of fun things. Imagine a sphere or a inverted cup, or what ever (a tall flame with a hollow inside!) Turn off the surfaces inside and out, polish them up, and then mount a light inside. it's like with the corncob you showed or the metal honeycomb you did in a previous episode. This way, it's like having that sort of material but you can do it, on demand, in what ever color combinations you wanted to try. it's really got a ton of ideas spinning in my head now. Thanks for playing with this! (feel free to steal any of these ideas...I only ask you show us if you make one of them!)
Hey! I've used micromesh pads for sanding prints before, and it's a wonderful way to turn your prints into looking like it's poured resin. Another thing, look into fancier filaments for turning. There's tons of options, plenty with glitter, but look at proto pasta. I actually threw this exact idea out before to someone at proto pasta before!
I think the reason gyroid was picked is that it's the same from every direction - hilbert and honeycomb are directional, so the pattern isn't consistent across the entire piece. That said, hilbert looks fantastic. I'd be interested to see adaptive cubic with a complex shape (since it changes infill density based on the shape of the walls). Since internal walls get infill as well, you could make a pattern that makes adaptive cubic look cool and then just wrap it in the box shape you actually wanted to turn. I wonder if you could also print a top box with some toothpick-like things to help agitate the resin and release the bubbles a bit.
i'd love to see more of these with different infill patterns, perhaps even colour matched with different beverages ie; red, black and white for coke etc.
So heckin awesome. I feel like there is an infinite amount of possibilities with this process 👍👍 Much more to explore Mr Brown. Merry Christmas to you and Mrs Brown and Happy New Year to you both.
as others have said, you can just do 0 top layers to leave it open on top. Also, you can add a modifier in the slicer to set the last few mm to 0% infill, that would give you a lip around the pattern to allow for overfilling and self leveling for those patterns that are not contiguous.
I did see a couple of what looked like voids on the green handle. If they were bubbles, maybe putting the molds into a vacuum chamber would help pull any large bubbles out before pressure potting would be a good workflow.
What a great idea, they look so good. Surprised I haven't noticed this comment yet, but you don't need to use the pause trick, you can just set the top layers to 0 and it won't print any layers over the top of the infill
You don't need to use the pause command, you just need to set the top layers to 0. Really fun to play with as you can make prints which expose the infill on all sides.
I remember meeting you at the first Opensauce and mentioning an idea for something similar! That was before you got all in on the 3D Printing bandwagon though, I'm really happy to see all the possibilities it's bringing out for you. If you want the lines to be more visible you can always turn on advanced settings, go to strength > line width > sparse infill and increasing that value will produce thicker lines
something to consider is you could do cylindrical molds so there is less turning/material waste. before cylinders would have been tough, but with 3d printer its easy now
Since infill is not dependent on the shape of the object but instead the orientation on the build plate (for non-3D infill patterns), you could also make up a shape that is octagon so the black starts in a more round shape while still being easily printed without supports (45 degree overhangs are no problem). Would reduce your resin waste and initial turning time by almost 35%.
3d printing ideas. 1) change the infill line width, make it wider and you can make the lines more prominent. You can easily go to 2x the nozzle with. 2) Try with PETG, better heat resistance
You can set the top layers to 4. That way the top will not be printed and it will be done, not paused with power on. You can also make it with 0 outer walls and without top and bottom layers then put into a reusable silicone mold. With some rearranging, you can also print the hole.
This was so cool to see. My fav is also the black and green one. I am surprised you didn't put them in a vacuum chamber to get all the bubbles out. It would of probably helped a lot.
Looks great! You should be able to set the top layers to 0, and add a modifyer for 0 infill for a couple mm at the top. You wouldn't have to be present to pause and no needed for the tape.
Even if you don't make a video out of it, you really should try this using that gyroid infill that BScatterplot suggested. The geometry of it should give you a consistent pattern on the exterior that changes subtly as you reduce the diameter.
Come out absolutely stunning! And yeah.....Epoxy.....why didn't i think of it! I needed a flywheel so i filled the gabs with very thin concrete.....need 3 weeks of drying but worked out
I'm currently learning to 3D model and while it's very easy to print, it requires a lot of tools and with smart modeling it's possible to achieve this with just a 3D printer.
I think the honeycomb pattern was in a different plane than you were expecting, since the pattern is much more apparent when you look at the front of the handle vs when you look at the sides
Nice combo! I think you might have interesting outcomes in the resulting pattern if you 3d-print a vertical blank, basically a cylinder with a nice infill pattern and no top surface. Also, having a round blank might make it easier to turn it in the beginning.
A different option is that you should be able to set infill to 0% at a certain point (like 5-10 mm from the top) then set the top layers to 0 and then this would give you a mold with a raised wall you can just fill up without having to worry about overflow and be confident you fill the mold pattern all the way. Kind of the print equivalent of adding tape around the top edge to pack in more resin.
You can further optimize the process by printing a cylinder instead of a rectangular prism. It will take longer to print since you'll need to print it upright, but will eliminate needing to round off corners. In fact, if you want to get really crazy with profiles, you could model a revolved shape in FreeCAD/Fustion360/SolidEdge/etc. Then you'd just need to turn away the outer shell of the part. Additionally, you can thicken the infill under the Advanced Options. Under Line width, change the Sparse Infill setting from default to double that value. This will make the infill lines thicker. Cura Slicer has options for taking multiple passes on infill which lets you really go ham with this, but Bambu Studio it seems to be a slightly cludgier workaround.
The honeycomb pattern would definitely benefit from one of those gradient PLA's. The ones that start purple at the bottom and eventually end up orange/yellow. You could also experiment with printing at a different orientation as well, perhaps with starting the print on the short side, or at an angle.
You could do the same by adding a dwell after the last desirable layer. Add it for as many seconds you think you need. Or add an opt stop to the g code (m01). Youd have to enable opt stop though. Im assuming that function is available in 3d printers. Or you could just change your top layer setting to 0. Then itll stop the infill at the top height of your part
You should get a coffee cup warmer or some kind of heating plate to set your two parts of epoxy on before you mix and pour them. It should make things real viscus and have less bubbles.
I would have gone with PETG over PLA just because PETG is better for machining, handles higher temps than PLA, and holds up slightly better to UV exposure than PLA.
These turned out great!!! Ever since I got a 3D printer, people have suggested I use it with pen turning somehow. This gives me a great idea on how to make some really neat pen blanks! Now to see if it works…❤
Fun fact: you can melt PLA with methanol, and it also burns with heat. So you can use PLA for both metal and resin casting (lost PLA casting). I would love to know if it's possible to do two resins with this technique - i.e. print -> fill with resin 1 -> cure -> alcohol melt the pla -> fill and cure with resin 2
If you are going to do more of these, you should consider getting one of the cheap massage guns just to vibrate the resin into all the crevices like a concrete vibe, then if you put it in the pressure pot the bubbles should be almost non-existent.
I did knife scales with really wide open infill honeycomb patterns, then cast resin. I poured them a year ago, but just made the knives recently. They worked out great, but i had to watch the temperature when sanding because the filament did get pretty gummy at times.
for future reference, if you want the infill to be more noticeable (like with the yellow in black resin, would have been better if the infill was more visible) you can control the amount of lines each line of infill is with the "infill line multiplier". So if you set that to 2 then the infill lines with be made up of two lines, making it double the width. Though this also means your infill percentage will be multiplied. So to make it like dense you would want to reduce the infill percentage. or you can get the same a better version of this by using a larger nozzle. printing the infill with multiple lines could become an issue when sanding.
That's such a great idea! I'm planning on giving out measuring sets as gifts and wasn't thrilled with the options for the silicone casting mold choices. I'll print out some boxes to custom sizes for a small fraction of the price of the mold, even with 27 handles to do. - Chris
These look really cool! The look of the honeycomb one reminds me of traces on a pcb or something like that - but I agree that overall the other one looks nicer.
Holy cow, thanks for the shout-out! That turned out super cool!
Thank you for the suggestion!
A reason to pick gyroid is that the infill is all connected and only one volume so the resin would flow between pockets. You also use it if you want to fill a print with sand or something for weight.
Can’t wait to see the gyroid someday too! ;)
@@peterbrownwastaken plz do more of these
Hey all! I promise to follow up with the black gyroid mold I have and a mica pigment. (probably in a short)
Which color powder should I pick?
Just a little tip when printing in bambulabs, u dont need to add a pause for this result, instead just change top layers to "0". and it will print the part with no top layers making it do the same thing you did.
In fact, if you set shell loops 0, bottom layers 0 and top layers 0, the printer will just print the infill, no sides/bottom/top :)
You can do very curious thing with that trick.
@@AseGarcia Yeah! I printed a fidget toy that's just gyroid infill printed in TPU, it's great, very squishy.
Guy read out the suggestion of how to do it, and still went with pausing.
The reason the person said to use Gyroid is because it's an interesting patten that doesn't create any pockets, the resin can freely flow through it all. Also the easier method than pausing the print would be to just set your top shell layers to 0
No, I think it would have been a good choice! Maybe I'll follow up with a short to show off the differences!
@@peterbrownwastaken And If you do , turn the print so that the length of the blank is in the Z-axis. Gyroid is mesmerizing to look at
@@HenkDeHauw and if printing upright you can make the blank cylindrical to begin with, saving resin and time on the lathe.
@@timplett1 since it's going to be turned on a lathe, I'd do a cylinder on it's side (with supports) for greater strength so the layer lines would run longways instead of cross-sectional. Being epoxy impregnated will, of course, help that if he does print a cylinder on end.
@@peterbrownwastaken If it was sufficiently cool, you should make a full video on it. Some people (myself included) do not watch short form vertical videos
For the 3d infill, I would almost suggest doing a .8 or 1mm nozzle, get thicker lines so it can pop more. This turned out really well, might have to do it myself
oooo I hope maybe we can get a follow up video, maybe he can try a bunch of nozzle sizes, I personally bet that its going to be a 'the bigger the better' sort of effect
You don't need a different nozzle, just set the line width to what you want in the slicer. Up to a point the only difference is the time it takes.
When using nozzles that have a wide tip (not the bore) like those bimetal ones for example, you can crank up the line width quite a bit with good results. I print .6 lines with a .4 nozzle that way.
@@worthstream yup, I've played with bare infill before in projects and I would suggest running combinations of different settings to achieve the look you want by changing (infill) layer width, angle and percentage and maybe using ASA in place of PLA because it can withstand slightly higher temps won't fade in colour when exposed to UV and the best of all polishes to a great luster.
@PLr1c3r you're right, ASA is a great suggestion!
I know it's not a metal lathe , but the wedding rings still make my skin crawl.
Super cool! Since you mentioned that different portions of the 3D print were separated from each other, maybe you could try to inject the resin into the different sections with different colors! If you turn up the infill width too and do that with translucent dyes maybe it will look like stained glass?
OH! YES YES YES
@@peterbrownwastaken DOWN BOY!
You are NOT allowed to blow an artery having a Joygasm!
We need you alive and capable of making more Projects like this!!!
😄😁😆😅😂🤣
absolutely Killer idea !
@@peterbrownwastakenI believe gyroid has 2 separate volumes. If true, it would look interesting with multiple colours.
Love to see this as a 3d printing enthusiast! One piece of advice to make your printing workflow easier if you decide to use this in the future, you can remove the top layers of the print to see the infill if you go to "Strength" >> "Top shell layers" and set it to 0. You can tell it has worked when you slice the plate
I've forgotten to switch that back several times. His method automatically clears up when you load a new model.
11:26 😂As someone who knows a little about PLA 3D prints, they will warp in a car. So like 90F+, they warp, they melt at 190-210C (Same temp as the nozzle). Not sure when it fully melts and I don't want to experiment with that XD. I do love the mixed media using 3 different "columns" of making. I was suspect of the herbert infill, but it does look aweeeesome. I'm looking forward to seeing more mixing of mediums
The Hilbert curve one turned out great. I hope you use this method in other future project… and actually use the gyroid infill this time ;)
One side note. You can use infill percentage to basically scale the pattern. Might be handy if infill pattern looks too dense for the resin to properly penetrate (looked like it with honeycomb).
Happy holidays!
What’s really cool about this method is that you can make prints stronger than injection molded parts if you just fill it while it’s left on the bed.
A trick you can play with is to have the infill extrude a thicker line so it would show up better. A bigger nozzle will also help get thicker infill.
Those handles turned (no pun intended) out great! A quick tip, there is a built in setting in Bambu Studio to print with no top (or bottom) layer. It makes sense to have a bottom layer in your case to contain the poured resin. To make it so there is no solid top layer go to the "Strength" tab -> then the "Top/bottom shells" section -> then set "Top shell layers" to 0. This will make it so the infill goes to the top without the need to pause. This also means that if you set the bottom shell layers to 0 you can have a print that you can see through/pass air through. Gyroid is really neat, I hope you give it a try!
That's so cool Peter! Experimenting is always fun. Happy Holidays!
Happy Holidays Carl!
Thank you for the 360 bottle kit! It's a beautiful piece of hardware!
Since your last video I upgraded my 3d printer to a bambu lab x1c. I couldn't really get too into it with my creality. What a change!!!!! This printer has been running what feels like nonstop since I opened it.
This 3D printer saga is coming along really well. It might be worth a try to test all the patterns.
That's a smart idea to put silicone on the bottom of your pressure pot
Another great video, and it looks awesome. My completely non sponsored endorsement for the bambu printers is I cannot recommend them enough. Design engineer by trade, and once my office got a bunch of the X1C and X1E printers, I and most of my team bought ourselves our own P1S for home. So easy to use after years of tinkering with other printers.
Ok, here's an idea. Not sure if it'd be worthwhile or not. What about instead of printing a long low box where there is a lot of material to remove, print a tall round cylinder that is closer to the final diameter? You'd save on resin and printing material, as well as time getting it down to the final shape. You could even print it the shape you want, just slightly oversized, so all you have to do is remove the outer 3D printed "form", and just round over the end. You could even model in the hole for the insert. That might need to be made a little smaller though. You probably wouldn't want the insert set in nothing but the 3D print, you'd want to make it slightly smaller so when you enlarge it, it takes off the "form" and leaves something better for the resin to bond to when you put the insert in.
Next step: combine all 3 loves. Make a 3D print with a helical hole (or multiple ones) that you can put a hardwood dowel in, then cast the whole thing in resin and turn it from there!
that looks absolutely wonderful and is a stellar idea. my favorite is also the black and green. i think the yellow hexagona pattern would look absolutely fantastic with a golden/orange clear resin, so it resembles a honeycomb for real! i don't know if anyone else has given this same suggestion yet, but i think an extremely cool twist on this concept would be custom-printed infills in the box, like tiling someone's name throughout in cursive in the print. then, when you lathe it, the outside will still have that curly burl-like effect, but on the inside, you can still see their name and it becomes clear.
Very cool. I wonder if you could design a "funnel" edge into the top of the box to make your pouring a lot easier.
It would be super easy, barely an inconvenience.
FINALLY something to do with all my printer poop! send it to Peter! lol
I bet we can make something with printer poop...
Love them! So cool to see how the designs turned out.
This channel is so underrated
If you do a cylinder standing up, so 1.5 inch round by 5 you can get some really cool effects with it too.
That green one is mesmerizing!!! What a cool idea!!
14:53 It almost looks too thin, compared to how thick the black infill appears. Maybe double the support thickness, if you can in their slicer
As someone who just got into 3d printing a few months ago, and who recently got an a1 combo themselves 😂 this is awesome!
Peter, instead of pausing near the end of the print as you did. In Bambu Studio on the left side you will see Quality, Strength, Speed, Support and Other tabs. Go to the Strength tab, in that tab go down to Top/Bottom Shells and change Top shell layer to 0. Then slice plate. You can even change the infill density (Sparse Infill Density) to a lower %. Have fun experimenting.
Yeah, the one with the mica powder is miles better than the other. Wow!
After many years of me wondering about this, someone finally did it! Looks great Peter! I would love to see you play with this more!!
I think the black and green handle looks great. The yellow one looks nice, but I was a little disappointed that it didn't have more of a honeycomb look after it was turned. That is what I like about turning different materials on the lathe as you never know what the finished product will look like. Love your channel. Keep these great videos coming.
the ability to make the "outer surfaces" solid to hold the resin and an inner layer that is crosslinked allowing it to fill opens all sorta of fun possibilities.
example: a bowl -- start with the one you showed in progress at one point... but make the body of it much thicker than the final piece will be, and do the interior with what ever fill design , fill it with resin. then "turn off" the outer layers on the lathe as you would normally, revealing the pattern of the infill. doing it like that would let you do all sorts of fun things. Imagine a sphere or a inverted cup, or what ever (a tall flame with a hollow inside!) Turn off the surfaces inside and out, polish them up, and then mount a light inside.
it's like with the corncob you showed or the metal honeycomb you did in a previous episode. This way, it's like having that sort of material but you can do it, on demand, in what ever color combinations you wanted to try.
it's really got a ton of ideas spinning in my head now. Thanks for playing with this! (feel free to steal any of these ideas...I only ask you show us if you make one of them!)
The infill you use makes ALL the difference
Hey! I've used micromesh pads for sanding prints before, and it's a wonderful way to turn your prints into looking like it's poured resin.
Another thing, look into fancier filaments for turning. There's tons of options, plenty with glitter, but look at proto pasta. I actually threw this exact idea out before to someone at proto pasta before!
As you are making circular handle you can print cylinder in vertical orientation. I am not sure but I think your pattern will look more symmetrical.
I think the reason gyroid was picked is that it's the same from every direction - hilbert and honeycomb are directional, so the pattern isn't consistent across the entire piece. That said, hilbert looks fantastic. I'd be interested to see adaptive cubic with a complex shape (since it changes infill density based on the shape of the walls). Since internal walls get infill as well, you could make a pattern that makes adaptive cubic look cool and then just wrap it in the box shape you actually wanted to turn.
I wonder if you could also print a top box with some toothpick-like things to help agitate the resin and release the bubbles a bit.
The difference in the glossiness between the PLA and resin in the green handle was unexpected and very attractive for something so subtle.
Micro mesh takes longer than most finishing, but man I think it's worth the effort!
The yellow mold is cool, but the black one kicks ass!
i'd love to see more of these with different infill patterns, perhaps even colour matched with different beverages ie; red, black and white for coke etc.
So heckin awesome.
I feel like there is an infinite amount of possibilities with this process 👍👍
Much more to explore Mr Brown.
Merry Christmas to you and Mrs Brown and Happy New Year to you both.
as others have said, you can just do 0 top layers to leave it open on top. Also, you can add a modifier in the slicer to set the last few mm to 0% infill, that would give you a lip around the pattern to allow for overfilling and self leveling for those patterns that are not contiguous.
I did see a couple of what looked like voids on the green handle. If they were bubbles, maybe putting the molds into a vacuum chamber would help pull any large bubbles out before pressure potting would be a good workflow.
I think the first one would look very cool with clear resin
That was certainly unique! What a fun reveal.
What a great idea, they look so good. Surprised I haven't noticed this comment yet, but you don't need to use the pause trick, you can just set the top layers to 0 and it won't print any layers over the top of the infill
I love the green one as well. The yellow and black one looked very cool, but the green one is just so much better. Love your videos
Those both came looking great. When you first showed the second one, I said WOW just before you did. That one just pops!
The second handle, the black and green, the infill pattern you used is for flexible filaments.
Looks amazing, and is awesome when used with TPU.
You don't need to use the pause command, you just need to set the top layers to 0. Really fun to play with as you can make prints which expose the infill on all sides.
Doing a unique color in each individual chamber of the black print would look awesome!
You need a vibration table, for resin pouring. It will allow bubbles to escape and the resin will flow downward better/faster.
omg that grean and black maze one is like THE COOLEST EVER 😍
The green maze pattern handle is awesome! I'd love a set of kitchen knives with handles like that.
Very cool idea using 3d printing and resin. In the settings you should be able to set the top layers to 0. Awesome job.
I remember meeting you at the first Opensauce and mentioning an idea for something similar! That was before you got all in on the 3D Printing bandwagon though, I'm really happy to see all the possibilities it's bringing out for you. If you want the lines to be more visible you can always turn on advanced settings, go to strength > line width > sparse infill and increasing that value will produce thicker lines
something to consider is you could do cylindrical molds so there is less turning/material waste. before cylinders would have been tough, but with 3d printer its easy now
This just added about a thousand new projects to my list. Great idea.
Since infill is not dependent on the shape of the object but instead the orientation on the build plate (for non-3D infill patterns), you could also make up a shape that is octagon so the black starts in a more round shape while still being easily printed without supports (45 degree overhangs are no problem). Would reduce your resin waste and initial turning time by almost 35%.
3d printing ideas. 1) change the infill line width, make it wider and you can make the lines more prominent. You can easily go to 2x the nozzle with. 2) Try with PETG, better heat resistance
You can set the top layers to 4. That way the top will not be printed and it will be done, not paused with power on. You can also make it with 0 outer walls and without top and bottom layers then put into a reusable silicone mold. With some rearranging, you can also print the hole.
This was so cool to see. My fav is also the black and green one. I am surprised you didn't put them in a vacuum chamber to get all the bubbles out. It would of probably helped a lot.
Hey!
I loved that. Btw, you can set bottom and top to 0 if you want, no need to pause the print.
Great video, I just wish you used the yellow one in the thumbnail, just because that green one was such a treat
Looks great! You should be able to set the top layers to 0, and add a modifyer for 0 infill for a couple mm at the top. You wouldn't have to be present to pause and no needed for the tape.
Even if you don't make a video out of it, you really should try this using that gyroid infill that BScatterplot suggested. The geometry of it should give you a consistent pattern on the exterior that changes subtly as you reduce the diameter.
The 2nd one also my fav. Thats why i watched video. Interresting what you did and excellent results!!
Come out absolutely stunning! And yeah.....Epoxy.....why didn't i think of it!
I needed a flywheel so i filled the gabs with very thin concrete.....need 3 weeks of drying but worked out
I'm currently learning to 3D model and while it's very easy to print, it requires a lot of tools and with smart modeling it's possible to achieve this with just a 3D printer.
I think the honeycomb pattern was in a different plane than you were expecting, since the pattern is much more apparent when you look at the front of the handle vs when you look at the sides
Nice combo! I think you might have interesting outcomes in the resulting pattern if you 3d-print a vertical blank, basically a cylinder with a nice infill pattern and no top surface. Also, having a round blank might make it easier to turn it in the beginning.
A different option is that you should be able to set infill to 0% at a certain point (like 5-10 mm from the top) then set the top layers to 0 and then this would give you a mold with a raised wall you can just fill up without having to worry about overflow and be confident you fill the mold pattern all the way. Kind of the print equivalent of adding tape around the top edge to pack in more resin.
I know the whole resin shavings inside of resin thing hasn't worked well before but these shavings REALLY look like they might work well for that.
You can further optimize the process by printing a cylinder instead of a rectangular prism. It will take longer to print since you'll need to print it upright, but will eliminate needing to round off corners. In fact, if you want to get really crazy with profiles, you could model a revolved shape in FreeCAD/Fustion360/SolidEdge/etc. Then you'd just need to turn away the outer shell of the part.
Additionally, you can thicken the infill under the Advanced Options. Under Line width, change the Sparse Infill setting from default to double that value. This will make the infill lines thicker. Cura Slicer has options for taking multiple passes on infill which lets you really go ham with this, but Bambu Studio it seems to be a slightly cludgier workaround.
The honeycomb pattern would definitely benefit from one of those gradient PLA's. The ones that start purple at the bottom and eventually end up orange/yellow. You could also experiment with printing at a different orientation as well, perhaps with starting the print on the short side, or at an angle.
I've wanted to do this for a while but I think you should use transparent or at least transfusent resin to reveal the pattern more
Just a thought - get one of the cheapest electric oscillating sanders upend it and place the 3d print on the pad and use it to vibrate out air pockets
I loved this idea! I really hope you try again with a bunch of different patterns! Merry Christmas to your family, Peter!
Merry Christmas Brown Family! I hope your holidays are safe and happy. Thanks for another great year of content!
i got a snakeskin vibe off the honeycomb handle. but you're right ,the maze handle is the winner. the good news is snake-honey isn't a loser!
You could do the same by adding a dwell after the last desirable layer. Add it for as many seconds you think you need. Or add an opt stop to the g code (m01). Youd have to enable opt stop though. Im assuming that function is available in 3d printers. Or you could just change your top layer setting to 0. Then itll stop the infill at the top height of your part
This is very cool, and I agree the green and black handle came out awesome.
Those came out so cool! Would love to see clear resin and dark PLA colors.
If you want the infil pattern to be more visible try using a larger nozzle or play with the extrusion width percentage
The Hilbert Curve looks cool. One of my favourite patterns, and to see it like this is pretty damn awesome.
You should get a coffee cup warmer or some kind of heating plate to set your two parts of epoxy on before you mix and pour them. It should make things real viscus and have less bubbles.
I would have gone with PETG over PLA just because PETG is better for machining, handles higher temps than PLA, and holds up slightly better to UV exposure than PLA.
These turned out great!!! Ever since I got a 3D printer, people have suggested I use it with pen turning somehow. This gives me a great idea on how to make some really neat pen blanks! Now to see if it works…❤
Fun fact: you can melt PLA with methanol, and it also burns with heat. So you can use PLA for both metal and resin casting (lost PLA casting). I would love to know if it's possible to do two resins with this technique - i.e. print -> fill with resin 1 -> cure -> alcohol melt the pla -> fill and cure with resin 2
If you are going to do more of these, you should consider getting one of the cheap massage guns just to vibrate the resin into all the crevices like a concrete vibe, then if you put it in the pressure pot the bubbles should be almost non-existent.
I did knife scales with really wide open infill honeycomb patterns, then cast resin. I poured them a year ago, but just made the knives recently. They worked out great, but i had to watch the temperature when sanding because the filament did get pretty gummy at times.
for future reference, if you want the infill to be more noticeable (like with the yellow in black resin, would have been better if the infill was more visible) you can control the amount of lines each line of infill is with the "infill line multiplier". So if you set that to 2 then the infill lines with be made up of two lines, making it double the width. Though this also means your infill percentage will be multiplied. So to make it like dense you would want to reduce the infill percentage.
or you can get the same a better version of this by using a larger nozzle. printing the infill with multiple lines could become an issue when sanding.
This is such a fun experiment, I just love things like this, thanks! 😀
That's such a great idea! I'm planning on giving out measuring sets as gifts and wasn't thrilled with the options for the silicone casting mold choices. I'll print out some boxes to custom sizes for a small fraction of the price of the mold, even with 27 handles to do. - Chris
These look really cool! The look of the honeycomb one reminds me of traces on a pcb or something like that - but I agree that overall the other one looks nicer.
These would also make really cool knife scales but you’ve sort of done that before. But could be a really pretty combo.
both of those turned out amazing!
This has given me a great idea! Thanks for showing us this technique
Thank you so much for sharing!
I am so glad that I found you through a Drew Fishers video.
Thanks again and Happy Holidays!
The black and green one definitely gives malachite vibes.