HOW TO: HIGH BOOST 2.2L/2.5L TURBO ENGINE REMOVAL & DAMAGE INSPECTION-WHAT BROKE? CHEAP, DIY, TURBO.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- HIGH BOOST DODGE OMNI GLH TURBO-WHAT BROKE ON THE OTHER GUYS 2.2L/2.5L GLH? WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU RUN TOO MUCH BOOST FOR TOO LONG WITH TOO MUCH TIMING OR NOT ENOUGH FUEL? TOO BAD! WHEN DETONATION REARS ITS UGLY HEAD, THINGS GET HURT INSIDE THE MOTOR REAL FAST! CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO WHERE I REMOVED A 2.5L TURBO DODGE MOTOR FROM THE 1985 DODGE OMNI GLH TURBO AND INSPECTED IT FOR DAMAGE. WHAT DID WE FIND INSIDE? CAN IT BE FIXED?
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My first brand new car was a 1990 Shelby Daytona. I cut a small slit in the vacuum hose at the wastegate and it would boost to 14lbs. got greedy, went bigger and burnt a hole in the piston. lol. put the stock vacuum hose back on, towed it to the dealership and with the new engine,kept it at 14psi. it was a fun little car and I was young and stupid.
OMG!!! We did some damage like that on a turbo 2.2 we stuck in a Reliant Wagon. I worked at a Chrysler dealer and a couple of calls to Chrysler Headquarters in Highland Park got me a box of mystery parts and a new computer, no part numbers on anything. No more problems on what might have been the fastest K-Car Wagon of the early 90's.
A friend of mine back in the early 90's took a reliant 4 door 2.2 turbo car put the super 60 stuff in it ripped all the badges off and proceeded to embarrass every crapstang and crapmaro he could find
@@Welcometofacsistube. Hey, we love all engines and makes here!
Is your name Gary?
@@bobbywalter5320 no, not Gary. I didn’t know a lot of people there, just a few of the right people.
The turbo 2.3L out of the Foxbody was a bad ass motor too!
Never as good as the chrysler.
i had both
I remember even with the non turbo 2.2s I remember watching the techs at the dealer do what they called the slip & slide with the head gasket! They had two lift points on the head, & a chain going to it! Hooked to an engine lift, they disconnected barely anything, except the head bolts & slipped the blown head gasket out, & just slipped a new fel pro gasket gasket in! They tightened the head bolts from center out w a air gun only! They then would pull plugs & crank over with starter to clear cylinders, & than top off fluids & out of the shop it would go! From cold start, to backing out of shop in under 15 min! NO BULLSHIT! That is alittle worse than normal! Oh and if they started skipping during the test drive, than they would actually pull head, & sometimes find exactly what you found! They saw blown head gaskets every day! Especially on the turbo ones! 😜😜😜😜🤪🤪🤪🤪
I graduated H.S. in 1986. The Omni GLHS was a pretty hot car for the day. I wanted a new car and it was between the Turbo Sunbird, Omni GLHS and the Grand National. The Grand National was pretty expensive and the Sunbird was actually a tick quicker than a regular Omni but the Omni had a bunch of cool options so I was leaning towards it. In the end I got none of the three. I heard they were going to start offering the 350 in the Trans Am for 87 and then they came out with the Formula and I fell in love. I bought a red Formula 350. It was a gorgeous car and really handled well and even got really good mpg. But what a disappointment the TPI was. I got beat by every 5.0 Mustang in the area. Fortunately I had my 69 GTO with a hot 455 that I could always run home and get.
You made the right decision👍
@@indyrock8148 The right decision was buy a Buick GN and hang on to it.
🧢
@@1439of2000 Oh, if only I had a time machine right? I had drug my dad to a couple of different Buick dealers because they wouldn't let an 18 year old test drive a car without a parent. My dad ended up falling in love with Grand Nationals. He ordered 2 brand new 87's, one for him and one for his wife and eventually found a GNX and bought it in early 88. He traded the GN's off a couple of years later but kept the GNX until last year. It had a whopping 4500 miles on it.
@@indyrock8148 I was a street racer and also needed a daily driver. I kind of thought an Omni would be a sleeper and get good mpg. But you're probably right. If a drunk driver hadn't rear ended the Formula in 89 I would still have it. But it was 3 feet shorter on the driver's side than the passenger side after the crash. I replaced it with an 87 GTA that had a modified engine. The old electronics were so bad that it burned MAF sensors out as fast as I could buy them. But it was another beautiful car.
I see a prior owner smartly upgraded to the Nippon-Denso alternator. A simple bolt-in that delivers 90-120A, depending on the model had... and quite necessary to support the electrical demands of a car with EFI. Not to mention more reliable, and easier to replace the brushes on! ;)
Where does this 120 amp alternator originate from
@@pr0n5tar go to a tractor supply store get one for a 1994 john deere replacing part 38770.
my best friend always wanted a omni glh, I will say those shelby intake and valve cover is swag af
The DTC for that is for an OverBoost Condition, my GLHS Charger used to do it, Mainly Due To WheelSpin.😉
Richard I truly appreciate all of your hard work, this really brings back some nostalgia remembering these cars I was a kid of the 80's alot of people forget iaccoca stepping in and saving Chrysler with these cars and Carol Shelby obviously a legend putting a stamp on this. Keep up the awesome work!
Oh man. I love your videos. So much knowledge and fun in these, it should almost be illegal. And from the man, I look up to himself. I have your book "How to build Honda horsepower", and from that I got the know-how and courage to build myself a killer B18 engine on EG hatchback. :)
NICE
@@richardholdener1727 and the book was not easy to come by back then in Finland. But I gave my mother the money, and challenge in trying to get it. In two weeks I was happy owner, and I started to look swap engine for my eg sedan back then.
Richard, MORE 2.2 Turbo Please!
Those little cars are so cool.
Richard, you have too much fun.
I didnt think any of the turbo omni even existed anymore. Love it
I seriously can't believe it was so bad! This is literally the reason I didn't pull my "blown head gasket" shelby charger apart for years (it still ran which allowed me to move it around the property) but I got lucky, just the gasket. I was running 26 psi, on e85, this could have easily happened if it was between cyl instead of the coolant passage.
Seen that before back in the day at the dealership and I’ve actually seen guys repair it with JB Weld and back on the road the next day, ah the good old days 🤣
Richard. It may be more economical to find another head. The head I believe is aluminum. I repaired and rebuilt gas and diesel heads for a living. If you can get the head to pass a water jacket presser test that doesn't reveal unrepairable cracks then it can be repaired. You will need a adjustable timing sprocket because of the deck milling. After welding and straitening (oven and jig needed for this) and milling, CC the chambers. You'll need to pressure test it again to see if the weld didn't create a leak as well as create new cracks. Then you have to check the cam journals and have them align honed if necessary (if you can find a shop that can do that). You still have a valve job and possible valve seat to deal with. You'll have a good head with hopefully not too high of a compression.
I was just going to mention that when he mentions the head is iron, but then read the note saying the block is iron...so was yep good correction. I've heard the turbo blocks were a high quality nickel rich iron block too. I had some very light detonation - nothing like this - on my head and was able to have it welded, cleaned it up, and resurface it and kept on going. Not the best solution, but it's a CNC ported head and didn't want to let it go just yet. That is on my 87 Shelby Z. I'm looking forward to pulling the 87 Turbo II out of my 85 GLH and getting it rebuilt. These videos certainly help inspire that, so thank you!!
@@notsigningupforshit The long drawn out way I explained the repair is IF you can not find a replacement. For the most part as long as the cam still can turn without bind after welding and it passes a leak test you are in business.
Richard, forgot to mention a couple of things that we used to do to these engines to fix the things that factory got wrong. One, is the uneven airflow of that T2 style intake manifold. The #1 cylinder gets more air than the rest, thus running lean because the factory batch style injection cannot address individual cylinders. The fix was to knock out the large "freeze" plug at the end of the intake and put a cone on the inside of the plug, then put the plug back in. The height of the cone will change with powerband.
Two, the uneven cylinder cooling because the water housing is on the left of the block, causing the cylinder #3 to run hotter. This may actually be the reason for the initial head gasket failure. The fix was to either run a flow diverter under the thermostat inside the block ( we used to make it from a thin aluminum or SS sheet) to direct some of the flow to the right or some people started using the small freeze plug on the right side of the head, right where the water and oil lines for the turbo run, by enlarging that hole and running a water line to it. Or doing both. The factory went to sequential fuel injection starting 89 if I'm not mistaken.
DID YOU RUN OXYGEN SENSORS IN EACH CYLINDER TO DETERMINE THAT
@@richardholdener1727 EGT probes and reading the spark plugs. This info was given to me as explanation for the observed behavior by an old Chrysler engineer. He ran Mopar Performance for 12 years and had extensive knowledge of these from the IMSA racing program. There was also a "crowdsourcing" involved, as we all shared what worked and what didn't in the Turbo Dodge community. The guy's name was Ed Peters and he was well know in the automotive community. Sadly he passed away a couple of years ago.
That intake makes great power when using the extrude hone program
This is a common issue for those running high boost, thought it looks like either this one was more severe than average or the person drove around for a bit with blown head gasket and killed the head as a result.
WOW ! That thing looks TORCHED ! 😬😳
I absolutely hate anything Dodge/Chrysler but for some reason I've always liked those omni's! Just imagine if they would have been AWD they would have been bad ass little hot rods without a doubt and since they are so old by now tuners would have figured out everything and there would be a ton of aftermarket parts available and they would be flying!
Everyone has figured everything out on these and there are plenty running fast times and have been for decades.
hey can you do some Chrysler / Dodge 3.5 v6 egg motor sometime???
2.2/2.5 who needs them????? v8 is too expensive in Europe. v6 Chrysler engine is dirt cheep 250 hp(n/a) calmed / 140usd.
very high rpm N/a
n2o + ring gap
camshaft
some ported heads maybee??
what power it can make before it self-destruct on dyno???
youtube is full of info over v8/bmw/honda/nissan.but not much of tuning of Chrysler 3.5 HO v6. i know it is good engine 4 the money.
i am building one slowly.
Plan is 3.5 engine/4.0 cam and springs/self ported heads/ self made long tube heders/ used dry sump pump from ebay/ ARP rod bolts/standolone/ and SHITLODS of N2O+ 98 octane pump gas. in very light light mercedes w201 with 6speed closer ratio.
What transmission? Stock 42LE or??
Are those forged pistons?!!
Wow Richard going full send on this one!
@Daniel G yeah he showed some new wiseco pistons. This is unusual for him. Usually he runs stock pistons.
@Daniel G I believe the factory pistons in my 87 Shelby Z T2 were cast aluminum with steel expansion struts. I'm running JE forged in mine now.
How about dyno testing harmonic dampers?
You should do a gmc 305 v6
wow, that architecture looks a lot like the old ford 2.3l turbo stuff, with a little Shelby mustang flavor (finned valve and intake covers).
A little tig weld action and that should buff right out. :-)
That thing is sweet!!!!!! Diamond in the rough for sure
Time for a Neon 16V head swap. :D
NO THNX
Maybe you should go back to the yard and pull another one of these engines, Rich... Maybe a 2.5, so you can see what a difference a change in stroke length can make one this design?
Nice
Did you stop doing testing on the 3800? Not that other turbo stuff isn't cool lol, just wondering
That head is most probably salvageable, cast heads can take a fair amount of abuse. Weld it up, give it a skim and put it back together.
Definitely got some carnage there ouch
That should be awesome sleeper
Junkyard TBI head is like $100 just swap the valves and de-shroud the exhaust valve
i DON'T SEE MANY 2.2L OR 2.5L DODGES (EVEN NA) IN THE YARDS
Out the bottom sucks on those. Much rather just pull it out the top like normal.
Please do rods too so it can make some real jam?
hey rich have you thought about doing a long tube header turbo kit? would that work? I see those ebay DNA long tubes and I cant help to think man wouldnt a vband flange get welded on the back of that just perfect to get a single turbo sized right.... it would be low but with a bit of shielding.. heat wrap... seems almost too good of an idea to be true
I WILL FOR THE DYNO
@@richardholdener1727 oh and if you are still reading on this post maybe twin turbos sized right for the end of each long tube? Just an idea
@@richardholdener1727 oh and if you are still reading on this post maybe twin turbos sized right for the end of each long tube? Just an idea
Get back to the omni please
Would you consider doing a video on removing a 5 speed off a 2.2 Chrysler engine? There is no resource right now on the internet on youtube how to do this?
separating the engine and trans?
Serious “other guys” territory here… That heads did not look good.
Could be working on the Nova
NOT AT WESTECH
Get a new head. The old one could be welded, but the heat treat in the weld zone will be wrong and leave the aluminum soft. Then the head gasket won't hold up.
That’s pretty bad, would think the cylinders would go down/misfire before it blew it out that much. I wonder if the added boost gave it enough compression to keep firing off.
If you have something that takes premium gas go fill it up. Its about to go the way of ammo. Stores are already running out.
91 no ethanol is 67 cents higher than 87 ten%
@@hotrodray6802 if you can find it
Bit of welding amd she'll be good
Richard if I recall, you've done work with blueprint engines, and I would assume you are familiar with the factory five 818. For a couple years, I wanted to take the 818 and put a 2.2 or 2.5 in it instead of a subaru boxer 2.5. They say it can't fit. I still can't wrap my head around that. What would you say?
WHY WOULDN'T IT FIT AND WHY NOT USE A HONDA
Aluminum is easy to fix. A little TIG action, and a close shave, she'll be ready to torque steer like a bitch again !
Ok
Personally I blame squirrels
Uncle squirrel He personally found black widows
(Dead after Propane powered "Fumigation")
The new "335" engine.
0.335 inches between each cylinder bore.
( 96mm bore spacings minus 87.5 mm pistons)
That is some of the worst damage I've seen to one of these on the head side of things without there being a hole in a piston, too. If the head is stock, not worth welding. Just find another good USED one! DO NOT get a new casting from China...they are TERRIBLE!!
Just have the head milled.......0.750
What a junk box! Omni turbo . Should dropped it down a canyon wall into a wash. Then let the chickens live in it. Weld that head and file it reuse the old pistons and put studs and a new gasket and overtighten by 10 ft lbs, " IS a Good enough" says Enzo.....
The issue is that vw sold this motor to dodge because they called it... Garbage
The 2.2 and 2.5 are a family of inline-4 engines developed by Chrysler Corporation originally for the Chrysler K- and L-platforms cars and subsequently used in many other Chrysler vehicles. After its launch in 1981, it became the basis for all Chrysler-developed 4-cylinder engines until the Chrysler 1.8, 2.0 & 2.4 engine family was released in 1994. It was the first Chrysler engineered four cylinder engine since the Chrysler flathead four cylinder was discontinued in 1933.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_2.2_%26_2.5_engine#2.5_Turbo
For the North American market, Chrysler adopted a 75 hp (56 kW; 76 PS) 1.7 L I4, sourced from Volkswagen in the United States (with a Chrysler-designed engine head).[8][9] At the time, Chrysler did not have capability to supply 4-cylinder engines in the United States (of any type), and the Simca-designed 1.1 to 1.4 L engines were deemed insufficient in terms of output.[8] The 1.7 L engine was paired with a 4-speed manual transmission or a 3-speed automatic.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Omni#Powertrain
Still a vw design they would not use... My dad was in the industry and said that vw would not use it because it blew up
At 100000 miles
No VW heritage here at all. Has the same bore spacing as a slant six. Stock, these things were reliable if you let it idle a minute to let the turbo slow down while it has oil pumped thru it. How much PSI did that damage with stock head gasket and ring gap?
@@matthewszalkowski4719 "Still a vw design they would not use..."
You know what would be handy.. something to support your claim.
Look up the acquisition of the original Omni motor...vw. Chrysler just enlarged it. Same flawed 3 to 4 cylinder wall and head cooling flow problems