WHAT SHOULD YOU CHECK ON YOUR CHEAP, JUNKYARD TURBO MOTOR BEFORE YOU RUN! DIY, HOW TO, DYNO TEST!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ส.ค. 2024
- 1984 JUNKYARD DODGE 2.2L TURBO DISASSEMBLY-WHAT DID WE FIND? WHO THE HECKS TRIES TO FIX A BROKEN HEAD BOLT WITH SILICONE? PLUS BLOOPERS! WATCH RICHARD MESS UP, AGAIN AND GAIN! RATHER THAN JUST TRY TO RUN THE 2.2L DODGE TURBO MOTOR AFTER THE START-UP VIDEO, I DECIDED TO TAKE IT APART! I DODGE A BULLET (OR TWO) ON THIS ONE, AS THERE WERE A NUMBER PROBLEMS THAT WOULD HAVE SPELLED DISASTER ON THE DYNO.
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I loved working with these engines back in the day with my gear head buddies. We had a couple of GLH Omni cars, a Daytona and some cars with this engine. One of the Omni cars ended up with the super charger kit on it. We had a blast with all those little Mopar cars back then. Very good memories. Thanks Richard. God bless sir.
You dont need those head bolts anyways. The tension from the timing belt is enough to keep the head sealed
Cleaning the water passages and blowing out the rusty scales on my 1996 Chrysler 420A engine while refreshing the head made a night and day difference.
It completely eliminated pinging under light load and no matter how hot is outside it won't overheat under any circumstances.
I helped my friend build a TBI bottom end he put into his turbo swapped 5 speed van years ago. He used old stock worn out rings that I think the smallest gap was .034”. The van is running on e85, stock electronics, and an unregulated mitsu turbo that’s making around 18psi. The higher compression TBI pistons really help it spool up a hair faster, it’s a riot to drive.
Many people say these rods bend and break at 225wtq, but they’ll actually make much more power than that. I’m excited to see what you do with this. The ring gap will certainly help out with the high boost stuff.
Hey Richard since you're tearing appart both the 2.2 and the 2.5 you should see if you can put the crank and rods from the 2.5 and see if it works in the 2.2
You can, but you have to use the front seal from the 2.5
Common block and non common block motor. No way Jose
This should be a fun series, I had an Omni GLH way back, it was a blast to drive. Those engines do good things with a little extra boost :)
Robot holdener his battery never runs low 😎
Personally I blame squirrels
That ring gap machine is awesome! What a great idea
Broken bolt , no worries on these things . Our local Dodge boys would change gaskets on these engines without taking the head out of the car . They only unhooked what they had to to lift the head 3/4 of an inch , slide out the old gasket and slide in the new gasket with no cleaning of any surfaces with damn few comebacks . Broken bolts were left in the block and the bolt head was siliconed in place to keep the oil out of the hole .
we called that a slider lol
we went one step further zip tied the cam belt to the top pulley zip out the cam bolt just enough slack in the timing belt to slide the gear off lil strap around the cam engine hoist pick head up 2 inches they usually blown right behind metal cylinder ring had room for a bit of scuffing that way
@@53slapnuts The one dodge boy had a makeshift deal he mounted to the hood somehow and it had old hood springs he would attach to the head he was "pulling" so when he zipped the head bolts out the springs would pull the head up and hold it there . They had 55 gallon drums full of old head bolts to these engines . If I recall correctly their record was 47 minutes from opening the hood to test driving it finished .
Thanks for this video - I've been waiting anxiously as I've a Chrysler 2.5 turbo that needs rebuilt along with performance enhancing. Richard please include sources for all materials as you continue along with rebuild.
pull it apart,look what it needs....video is cool but doesn't help much in your case...
stoked for this series
Hey Richard! Excellent decision to tear into it and build it as optimal as possible. I believe the perceived weaknesses are due to detonation damage, and/or long term block warping. Your holley EFI setup should take care of the former. Obtaining and installing a forged steel crank down the road will at least help solve the latter. Either way, I feel confident you'll do us turbododge boys proud. Thanks again for showing me the crank sensor mod. Another trick up my sleeve for my 89 turbo 2 LeBaron 😎
Best of luck moving forward!
thnx-no need for forged crank
Once you have a bellhousing adapter for that 2.2/2.5 setup, you’ll have one that fits the srt4 engine since they have almost the exact same pattern!
How cool would it be if the guy glued the bolt in was watching haha
Looking forward to using your videos on my own 2.2 turbo in the future
I’m excited about you Dino in this motor I bet it would make a great mud boat motor
And never in my lifetime have I had a broken bolt come out that easy apparently you’re blessed 👍
I was thinking the same thing lol
This one has got my excited..... Ma Mopar already knew back then that the top ring should have a bigger end gap than the bottom...... I try telling the old skool engine builders this and they think i'm nuts!
That actually depends on the temp the top ring runs at. At running loaded temps you want the top ring at less gap than the second. Sometimes this means the top ring has more cold gap, sometimes it means the same cold gap.
@@8power857 No you don't want the top ring with less. You want the top ring with more so you don't get ring flutter. Look it up
@@74beeper97 read my post, im talking about 'at running loaded temp' when the top ring is far hotter than the 2nd ring so sees more expansion and the gap closes up. This puts the 'running loaded' top ring gap LESS than the 2nd ring gap which reduces flutter and increases rop ring seal by allowing a larger pressure differential between the chamber and the space between top and 2nd ring. Ideally the top ring would 'almost' close its gap up when at its hottest temp which would give the best chamber seal and the best hp BUT for safety we allow the top ring to still have a little gap at its max normal temp.
The gap is larger to prevent ring flutter. If the top ring end gap is only larger when cold then you don't have enough top ring end gap
@@74beeper97 haha ok then🤦♂️
Thanks for all the great work! I'd like to see a modern Toyota or Nissan V8 up on the dyno one day!
Brings back memories
That's that stop leak stuff clogging up the water passage's see why silly cone on the head bolt. 😀
I love those Total Seal Rings. I have a set in my stroked 351CJ (4.17 stroke, 426cu.in). Meant for a super charger I cc'd each bore, combustion chamber and head gasket to a dead even 8.70 to 1 compression ratio. With the spark plugs out you can turn it over by hand fairly easy. With the plugs in you can not turn it over with a breaker bar without threating to break the crank bolt. I have the top ring gap set for the maximum possible power out put. The ring seal is amazing. I have a TRW high torque (400 inch pound) starter that barely starts the motor.
I've got the 2003 quad. It's got a quarter million on it and the belt is original so it's waiting for me to get my carage built. Butt this should be a fun video.
Richard, flip the block over and use a pic or screwdriver on the buildup and it will fall out instead of going back in the block.
I do that-but it all needs to be cleaned out
My son has a pile these 2.2/2.5 turbo dodge cars .
Rich you're lot's of fun to watch, you guys would put a turbo on a blender, if you thought it would spin faster.
Hi Richard. Professional machinist here. Just want to say if you're able to fit a .026 feeler gauge between whatever, it will always measure bigger than .026
it might measure 0.0265/0.027" if it has any resistance.. a .001 feeler guage wont fit into a 0.001 gap,its basic logic
I want to see the biggest turbo you own bolted up to that little guy
Friendly suggestion, you should make a playlist for your 2.2/2.5 videos
yes
Has the 2.2 been finished?
I've been binge watching all morning, great content
I can wait no more !!
I have been playing with engines and cars for fifty years, have always been told that head studs are the way to go on high output or heavily modified motors.
Forgive my ignorance, but why are studs better than bolts?
if you have been doing it for 50 years ,i think you would already know wouldn't you? studs create more downward clamping force on the head without stressing the threaded portion of the block.this is very important in BOOSTED applications as the higher the boost,the more the head wants to lift off the block..studs help reduce this problem but don't necessarily eliminate it completely .
Looks exactly like the cam tunnel and top of the head on a 2.3 ford minus the removable cam caps. Honestly the whole engine looks like a copy of the 2.3
welcome to the automotive world,everybody borrows everything from everyone else.some do it better than the original
Please explain more on the use of the LS1 crank sensor for the Holley EFI
DRILLED HOLE IN DISTRIBUTOR-MOUNTED LS SENSOR ON BRACKET AND BOLTED IT TO THE BOTTOM OF DISTRIBUTOR TO ALLOW THE SENSOR TO READ THE 4-PULSE TRIGGER IN THE DISTRIBUTOR.
Should you have gaped the rings after the ball hone? Also, on the 2nd ring is the gap important for boost? Or just SOP?
THE BALL HONE WON'T CHANGE GAP MUCH AND BOTH RINGS NEED GAP
ball hone is more surface finish correction than material removal....
I can't wait to see how much more than 146 bhp Richard can eek from this powerplant!
I never understand why the don't use a cross flow design on those heads, much better flowing , and that old design of the head chamber shape , that head look not that great on the 1 cilinder,, the water channel chew the wall to the chamber
Damn lot of stop leak in water jackets
With the way the amera barra went I thought for sure that head bolt was broken off and stuck below the deck of the block.
What’s with one cylinder head chamber being brown?
that turbo is oil fedd change the oil pressure spring to a hire pressure spring
if it has to turn to tight i see something failing in the accessory shaft it pulls the dist and oil pump i think !!!
they pretty tough
You should check out the motor I have for sale 2.2 with a NEW OLD STOCK direct connection full ported head never run it could be for sale
HOW MUCH
Whole engine with turbo ,or just head. was a package from dodge .
Head only with DC hp cam
2000.
Block 1993 common block
Wesco turbo forged pistons
Mopar forged rods
Block torque plated
Turbonetics polished turbo
3in cast elbow out of turbo
+ 20 injectors
Adjustable cam timing sproc
2 pc intake
The head of course
4th cyl mod
3.3 L throttle body
Adj Grand national fuel pressure reg
Cosmetic multi head gasket
Arp head studs
Polly eng mounts front and side
4000.00 complete engine from pan to shelby valve cover
I'm shure I'm forgetting stuff
Or buy the whole 86 dodge datona turbo z with t tops with engine built auto trans and a SHIT TON OF EXTRAS .... 5000. 00
GOOD SOLID CAR 0 RUST . I'm in Vegas car was sold new here.
Richard I love your videos and as a long-time subscriber do you have anything on the Ford 3.0 V6
I want to build it for my kid i have the 302 but its to crazy for him I just wanted to do a few up grades on the 3.0 2wd ranger for him
no sir
@@richardholdener1727 you need to do one for the "other guys"
Passenger rear corner corrosion creep. It gets the head gasket every time! Your head may be the worst I've seen for galvanic reaction eating that back corner passage away in the head. Barely enough material to clamp the fire ring at all. Is this the head that David has?
get a felpro head gasket the metal part around the cylinders is wider un less you use something better
@Richard Holdener said in the live feed that he was going to try to get an MLS head gasket. I believe that Cometic makes one for the 2.2 and 2.5 engines.
@@alantrimble2881 been too long for me worked at dodge 1987-1992
@@53slapnuts I'm so sorry. Those K Cars were such turds. I hated to see them roll into the shop, and there was always at least ONE in the shop!
im guessing 400hp gapping the rings a .026 im thinking he going over 7psi boost
@@alantrimble2881 no need to be sorry lmao biggest turd around but very easy to work on
Well now you know why the car was in the wrecking yard.
👍💪
they crack between the valve seats sometimes
no leak issue can let the seat loose enough to come out
Irrelevant
@@Welcometofacsistube the seat falls out holds valve open cam follower falls out dont hurt anything but they sure run terrible on 3 lol
Are you eventually going to try to find a car for it
richard does DYNO testing,in case you didnt notice
watch the omni glh 2.5 video
Looking at th-cam.com/video/O7uMPTO21uk/w-d-xo.html it appears the cooling passage rotted into the combustion chamber. Hopefully it's just an illusion, but I don't think so.
I'm sure Richard will do a good freshen up and with his expertise make more power than those motors ever produced from the factory. But where do you go from there? Those engines never went into anything cool or fun to drive. They were in mini vans and boring grandma grocery getters.
NEVER SAY AN UNKIND WORD ABOUT AN OMNI GLH TURBO
Personally I blame squirrels
Was probably chipmunks this time I hear they have a thing with head bolts