Mosfet Regulator Rectifier Upgrade Guide [No More Stator Burn] - Triumph Sprint ST 1050 | Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2025
- Mosfet Regulator Rectifier Upgrade Guide [No More Stator Burn] - Triumph Sprint ST 1050 | Part 2
MOSFET Regulator Rectifier: ebay.us/6syLjl
In this "Part 2" video I take you through the process of upgrading my Triumph Sprint ST 1050 Regulator and Rectifier to Mosfet as part of my preventative electrical maintenance work.
In "Part 1" I showed you upgrading the battery wires to larger "pudding" versions to reduce the strain on the electrical system and this regulator and rectifier upgrade is another key modification on these Triumph bikes.
The original Triumph regulator rectifier has a tendency to run very hot and burn itself out. Avoid future issues and burning up your stator by upgrading to the Mosfet regulator rectifier.
Whenever I am playing around with one of my projects, I always try to wear good overalls like these ebay.us/2LOCDG and gloves ebay.us/gcA4XD
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![Battery Wire Upgrade Guide [Pudding Cable Installation] - Triumph Sprint ST 1050 | Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oV_KFdHesAE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Battery Wire Upgrade Guide [Pudding Cable Installation] - Triumph Sprint ST 1050 | Part 1](/img/tr.png)
I have always thought my sprint had a problem when starting up. This make perfect sense and I will definitely do the cable upgrade to start with. It just seems to labour sometimes , and there is nothing worse than being out on a run and the bike wont start. Thanks for the video...greetings from Cape Town
Glad that you have found it helpful. They can be a little fussy starting. You need to make sure you have a good battery that is well charged. That is why it is so important to make sure your charging system is in good condition. Take care.
Just ordered a new regulator as my connector to the stator has also started to smoulder and smoke. Hopefully will keep it alive a bit longer until i can also get hold of the pudding cables 👍
It wasn't just Triumph's. Seems like all manufacturers used poor regulators and rectifiers until recently.
Mosfet is unlikely to prevent stator overheating.You really need Series RR like Compufire or Shindengen Sh847.I have a 2005 Speed Triple with a Mosfet RR.And right now it is in my garage with a fried stator.And that stator has only done 4000 miles.The Series type RR reduces the excess voltage feed back to the stator by 50% so it runs a lot cooler.But they are expensive and difficult to find not to mention a problem to install as they are larger than the OEM RR.
thanks for the vid!! my battery basically caught fire because it was over charging! replaced the battery and its geting over 18 volts !! so ill be doing this in the next few days (but ill probably use a cheaper copy which will still be better than a broken one haha) Thanks again!
Sounds dangerous, I hope you get that sorted ASAP before your bike goes up in flames. 😬
Good easy job you did there I myself purchased the bypass one straight to battery on my tiger 955i it was a pain I'm also looking at replacing the battery cables soon but the 30 amp fuse is wired into positive so got a bit of thinking how to get round this .. great information you putting on here 👍
Hi James, thanks for the positive feedback! The battery cables can be fiddly indeed, good luck when you decide to have a go at that. Check our other vid out which has more on the cables, not sure how similar it will be to the Tiger 955i though. Cheers!
Later Sprints had the regulator mounted higher up and more forward on the other side of the bike.
Interesting, is it the same part? Maybe they moved it to a cooler mounting position.
@@SPANNERRASH yes I think that was the reason for moving it. I’m a bit out of touch now with the Sprint having got rid of mine around 2014. Not sure if the part changed but heat was the killer for them. The alternator wires would probably reach but the battery wires might have needed modifying.
I upgraded to the Shindengen FH020AA before, like you, the old one went belly up.
Do you know which nipple the tube with the tip over valve attaches to? Ive just had my engine replaced and had to do a few tweaks to it, now cant find where the tip over tube goes! I also seem to be missing the tube that fits to the second nipple. If you can point me to location of the tip over valve i can figure out the other one, thank you!
Sorry, I haven't got the Sprint any more so I can't take a look to say. Good luck.
@@SPANNERRASH ah that's a shame. Thank you anyway! Your videos still helped me do both upgrades to mine a couple years ago, lifesaver!
Dealing with the tank. It is common for the tank to swell. At least that is what the RAT forum says. It mounts in a rubber holder at the front. There are a couple rubber pads along the frame. My tank actually sits on top of the headstock. That part of the tank and headstock are both flat so it sits there slightly but securely on top with the metal mount snug in the rubber. I lubricate the rubber holder at the front of the tank. To remove the bolt at the rear or to reinstall the bolt? You need to have the fairing out of the way. Remove the bag mounts as a given you can slide the fairing back. Now, examine the rear portion of the tank that was hidden. There is a bit of rubber pad on the tank there to prevent abrasion I guess. I have mine held with gorilla tape to keep it from deteriorating or falling off when moving the tank. I made an oak stick about an inch square and 6 inches long. I find the spot at the back of the tank where that pad is. I put that stick against the frame between that squared part at the rear underside of the tank and lever it to push the thank fwd against the rubber mount at the front as I align the bolt hole. It's my understanding from that forum the tank may once have fit in behind the headstock but mine simply needs to rest on top of the headstock. I got it that way. The nose of the tank solidly fits slightly on top not behind. I never understood why people spoke of the tank swelling making it an issue. Thinking that is how it is supposed to sit. By levering the tank with a stick at the rear knowing about a possible conflict at the nose, the front mount is snug, the tank rests a fraction of an inch higher and is on top of the headstock, the frame pads and the bolt can be easily adjusted, what ever it takes to align the bolt hole can be done effortlessly prying with the stick but the spot is hidden by the fairing.
Thanks for the info. It is a faff with these tanks. I didn't realise that it had a plastic tank when I first bought it, until my magnetic tank bag slid off :)
I've got mosfet RR and stator keeps burning out. Any idea why is happening?
There are only 3 main things involved here. Reg/Rec, Generator and Battery. If you have replaced all of them one must be faulty. I would suspect the Reg/Rec because it is the most complex and prone to faults. The stator only tends to be a problem if the reg/rec is not controlling the power take off correctly, unless it gets mechanically damaged. I think some Yamahas have a problem with this. Lastly if you have bad battery it will put a lot of stress on the rest of the system, so could damage either or both of the other parts. I hope this helps. Good luck. One final thought poor connections, the main connector can suffer with burning or corrosion which adds a lot of resistance into the system.
@@SPANNERRASH thanks Alot its a nightmare but gonna strip it the wk end and see connections and hopefully is only that. Regulator is only 6 months old and got the Mosfet one and stator only new since last September so shouldn't be doing it so soon. I'm bit lost as why doing it again but will check the connections and see thanks 👍
Put the Regulator on another place in this bike. Otherwise the verry hot air from the water cooler will kill the regaulator again.
I had taken my regulator behind the back damper ... it works for many years still today.
That's an interesting idea for sure, thanks Michael.
I don’t know if it’s the same on the sprint as it was on my speed four, but the plug from the stator gets hot, very hot. In my case catches fire! It’s recommended to remove the original plugs and solder the cables from stator to regulator directly. I would still have my bike if I had ☹️
That is a really good idea, when I checked my connectors they were OK but I have heard many stories of them melting and catching fire. I would solder then if I was doing the job again.
@@SPANNERRASH wish I had soldered mine, might still have the bike now.
Replaced RR with MOSFET and alternator stator, voltage at idle 14.6 volts, at 3000 rpm 16 volts. returned the old RR (shunt type) back. The voltage at idle is 14.0-14.3 at the shunt regulator, the rest of the rev range is 14.5-14.6 and is stable. I noticed that when you start the motorbike you open the throttle a little, what could be the problem? I also have to do this when the engine is not warm. My friends have the same motorbike and it starts without opening the throttle.
I suspect that balancing the throttle bodies and getting the injectors cleaned might make a difference. I think that problems like this are caused by bikes being left to sit for years on end in non heated storage, as long as it doesnt stop the bike being used it isn't something I would rush to investigate, and you never know if I actually did a trip of a few hundred miles it might even clear it up! Good luck.
No it was just the p tank .All the best Alfie
The link for this doesn't work anymore, how much should this cost to buy?
Hi, I noticed that there are a lot of very cheap "mosfet" regulator and rectifiers advertised. They may be fine, but I paid a lot more when I got mine, from a more recognised supplier. Here is a link to the one I bought. ebay.us/6syLjl
Thank you.
Thanks, I do hope it was interesting for you.
did the tank HAVE to come off :(?
I think its definitely best to remove the tank, its not as bad as it sounds either. Although it may be possible to do it without fully removing it.
the link to the item doesnt find it anymore :( Dont suppose you could advise where i can find it? reluctant to chance it with alot of them claiming mosfet but are cheap chinese ones :(
Hi @@philipjohnshire I believe this was the one I went with: ebay.us/rbm6bz I was cautious of cheap Chinese ones too. Hope that helps!
Bạn có phụ kiện của xe này ko
Tôi không còn bộ phận nào cho nó nữa.
Just force n slide it in good old American love no need to take tank out . Use 2 screwdriver s as levers . Stretch the plastic housing with one n massage the battery in with other
Cheers, i'll bear that in mind for next time. :)
best regulator oem? long lasting twill
No original is rubbish.
so... the battery will slip in and out if you lift all the electrical connectors off the post, near the top side of the battery. slide it in. then slide the connectors back down over their posts.
Cheers, i'll give that a try next time
Tôi cũng có một con xe này mà hiện tại mình đang thiếu một bình xăng bạn có hàng sẵn không shippe cho mình một bình xăng
Xin lỗi, nhưng tôi không còn chiếc xe đạp này nữa.
In England you can't buy a genuine shindengen rectifier for one of these bikes..in fact you can't buy shindengen parts at all...
Not to worry there are other brands.
@@SPANNERRASH it's finding a decent one that's the problem
I've got a triumph Sprint gt. Before that I had a Sprint st.. they eat regulator rectifiers every couple of years. I would never ever touch another bike apart from japanese in my life all else is pretty much junk
They all have endearing features, sometimes you can forgive their faults for the good bits. I have a soft spot for Italian bikes, maybe it is a soft spot in my head :)
Xin chào bạn😊
Xin chào, rất vui được nghe từ bạn.
Mental note don't buy a triumph
Triumph are not the only Brand that have problems with regulators...
@@mad_michel yes I know my honda vfr is one of them. I was referring to how hard it was to take fairing off.
@@paulscott1100 Yes, i had a RC 36 before i buyed a sprint. Put the regulator in the back of the bike... and the problems have a end...