Thanks 4 the vid 👍 After crimping the small cables you should have used a heat pistol on the insulation. They’re shrinking and you don’t have to seal them with insulation tape 😉 Cheers/Harry
Just watched this through, I now know to also to have my glamorous assistant on hand. Nice job. I'll update when I've done mine. Pudding has posted them ..... could be a while before they land as I'm in Oz!
When fitting these on to mine, rather than join the 2 small black earth wires I just cut the old spade terminal off the engine earth lead, that leaves the original 2 small leads crimped onto the original engine earth terminal. As It's an earth if it's cut very short it is no problem :-) great cables sorted my lazy starter motor out
Thanks for the video, I have a 06 sprint and it looks like there the same colour. The earlier candy Apple Red as you have. Mine has a plastic tank and I noticed I may have to remove the tank bolt like you did to replace the battery. Do you know any other ways to remove it?
Removing the tank is a pain. The plastic seems to go slightly out of shape. I wonder if the modern fuel with ethanol is making them swell? You really need to be patient in doing it so that you cause damage. Good luck.
@@SPANNERRASH yeah not looking forward to it, I think I will just get someone to hold the tank up after I remove that fiddly bolt so I can swap the battery but I won't disconnect any fuel connections, I shouldn't need too 👍
I got my cables off Jeff 'pudding' Halford on the FaceBook Sprint ST 1050 group. They make the engine spin a little quicker, and will be less prone to overheating.
Hi Kent, I can't quite remember how it comes off. I think it clips off by squeezing but not sure. They can become brittle so you need to take care. Gentle wiggling and twisting while you are trying to unclip it may help. Good luck.
T handle screwdrivers and Allen keys, plus one with a 3/8th drive area all on the shopping list. But it is hard to justify when I already have a pretty full tool box. Maybe I need a bigger box too... :)
Realise this is old- but I was wondering how much easier for you ( and anyone else) if you’d just put your new leads on in parallel? Of course, I’m assuming that the bolts on any existing hardware would be long enough to cater for 2 lugs I’m looking at doing this on my 595 and I’ve been thinking ( or over thinking) about this process a bit.
I think you would struggle to get them to fit, the starter wires are quite thick and can be a bit harder to route. I suspect that if you can do as you suggest it would work fine electrically. Hope this helps.
I noticed on my 2002 triumph sptint that the regulator/rectifiers are not the main problem but the underated alternator is. The fuel injector system is very power hungry and this puts a lot of strain on the stock alternator when all lights are on and at motorway speeds when everything is working at its hardest (electrically speaking) for prolonged periods leading to early failure. I fitted an aftermarket alternator when mine failed cooking three coils in a row within the windings, something which should not happen ever on a touring bike. (imagine this happening in the middle of a european tour!) Another weak point is the quality of the connector between the alternator and the rest of the loom. Cheap components are used which are another source of woe as they are at their capacity limit most of the time due to the demands of the fuel injection systemand not very good at keeping dirt and water out causing corrosion. This in turn puts strain on the poor regulator/rectifier which is working hard to try to keep up with the demands of the entire system overheating as it does leading, again, to early failure. Triumph took a long time to learn that lesson but now elecrtics are more reliable. PS, you've made that Job a lot harder than it needs to be, Just remove the entire seat cowl in the first place then access to everything is so much easier.
Thanks for sharing Roy, and interesting points about the alternator. Indeed, if I were to do it again I think i'd strip more down for better access. But got there in the end at least.
@@SPANNERRASH do you have the full name for the group? I’ve a Trophy 900 that I want to do this with so would be great to get the correct cables for it. Thanks.
@@davythree The group on Facebook is called "Triumph Sprint ST 1050", and the guy who sells them on the group is called "Jeff 'pudding' Halford", hope that helps!
Currently I think you can only get them from the Triumph Sprint ST 1050 Facebook group, from a guy called Jeff "Pudding" Halford who makes and sells them.
I'd love to get my hands on these cables, but it turns out the Facebook admins denied my joining request as they didn't like my answers 🤷 Guess I'll try to find a seller who's not blocked by an elitist 🤷
Buying the wires and connectors would work out about as dear as the guy on Facebook who has gone to the trouble of working it all out for us. No doubt he buys by the mile so can make a little on them.
what a poor design, understood that Battery will die on you at the worse moment (Murphy's law) and you won't have time and tools to do that job. The metal tank installed after 2007 (2008 ?) has a metal clamp as a seat locator that you remove easily. I have a 2007 and a bad battery. I am pushing it though.
Not sure why unclipping the fuel line and vents are the most important part of a Pudding Cable video, but obviously they are to you! I suspect you took off your tank and didn't look at how the vents and pipes connected, maybe a parts manual would help. Sorry if you didn't find what you want, but thanks for the feedback anyway.
![Mosfet Regulator Rectifier Upgrade Guide [No More Stator Burn] - Triumph Sprint ST 1050 | Part 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/suvGq5NaJTg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Mosfet Regulator Rectifier Upgrade Guide [No More Stator Burn] - Triumph Sprint ST 1050 | Part 2](/img/tr.png)
I need to do this on my '08 Sprint. Looks straight forward enough. Many thanks for taking the time to make and share your video.
Glad it has been of help. You shouldn't have a problem with fitting the cables.
Thanks 4 the vid 👍
After crimping the small cables you should have used a heat pistol on the insulation. They’re shrinking and you don’t have to seal them with insulation tape 😉
Cheers/Harry
Good idea. Insulation tape always adds too much bulk.
Just watched this through, I now know to also to have my glamorous assistant on hand. Nice job. I'll update when I've done mine. Pudding has posted them ..... could be a while before they land as I'm in Oz!
Good luck mate, don't forget to put the battery back in before putting the tank back on! :D
I did this mod today! Big difference. Cranks almost twice as fast on my sprint.
Hi Derek, glad to hear its improved your bike, enjoy!
Congratulations.
When fitting these on to mine, rather than join the 2 small black earth wires I just cut the old spade terminal off the engine earth lead, that leaves the original 2 small leads crimped onto the original engine earth terminal. As It's an earth if it's cut very short it is no problem :-) great cables sorted my lazy starter motor out
And today I got it done. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video, I have a 06 sprint and it looks like there the same colour. The earlier candy Apple Red as you have. Mine has a plastic tank and I noticed I may have to remove the tank bolt like you did to replace the battery. Do you know any other ways to remove it?
Removing the tank is a pain. The plastic seems to go slightly out of shape. I wonder if the modern fuel with ethanol is making them swell? You really need to be patient in doing it so that you cause damage. Good luck.
@@SPANNERRASH yeah not looking forward to it, I think I will just get someone to hold the tank up after I remove that fiddly bolt so I can swap the battery but I won't disconnect any fuel connections, I shouldn't need too 👍
When removing the tank bolt, just lift the tank slightly to take the pressure off the bolt and it slides out easily.
Where did you get the cables from? and the rectifier?
Did it make any difference to the bike? Have been looking at buying a sprint st.
I got my cables off Jeff 'pudding' Halford on the FaceBook Sprint ST 1050 group. They make the engine spin a little quicker, and will be less prone to overheating.
@@SPANNERRASH did the bike give you problems before you did the upgrades? I am looking at a 2006 model year.. hoping to get a trouble free one.
finding it a challenge to disconnect the fuel line from the tank, any suggestions?
Hi Kent, I can't quite remember how it comes off. I think it clips off by squeezing but not sure. They can become brittle so you need to take care. Gentle wiggling and twisting while you are trying to unclip it may help. Good luck.
Invest in a T handle screwdriver and T handle Allen key, makes life easier. An extention on the socket would also make things a bit easier.
T handle screwdrivers and Allen keys, plus one with a 3/8th drive area all on the shopping list. But it is hard to justify when I already have a pretty full tool box. Maybe I need a bigger box too... :)
Realise this is old- but I was wondering how much easier for you ( and anyone else) if you’d just put your new leads on in parallel?
Of course, I’m assuming that the bolts on any existing hardware would be long enough to cater for 2 lugs
I’m looking at doing this on my 595 and I’ve been thinking ( or over thinking) about this process a bit.
I think you would struggle to get them to fit, the starter wires are quite thick and can be a bit harder to route. I suspect that if you can do as you suggest it would work fine electrically. Hope this helps.
Where did you get the cables??
If you search the Sprint ST 1050 grop on Facebook for "Pudding" you will find the guy that makes and sells these. Great price too.
What year is this sprint? Im about to open up mine to look for the reg/rec
Mine in the video is a 2007 model. Hope that helps!
Sprint GT have the same problem? Thanks
Seems like all bikes from that era have the same or very similar problems.
Hi Di you lave a link to buy this kit please
Sorry I haven't got a link but if you search "puddin" in the Sprint 1050 group on Facebook, you should find the guy who sells them.
Waiting for my new cables to arrive, hope it improves my starting! It’s crap at the moment.
It really should help. Make sure your battery is good, and it is worth checking that it is charging well, the reg/rec can cause problems too.
I noticed on my 2002 triumph sptint that the regulator/rectifiers are not the main problem but the underated alternator is. The fuel injector system is very power hungry and this puts a lot of strain on the stock alternator when all lights are on and at motorway speeds when everything is working at its hardest (electrically speaking) for prolonged periods leading to early failure. I fitted an aftermarket alternator when mine failed cooking three coils in a row within the windings, something which should not happen ever on a touring bike. (imagine this happening in the middle of a european tour!) Another weak point is the quality of the connector between the alternator and the rest of the loom. Cheap components are used which are another source of woe as they are at their capacity limit most of the time due to the demands of the fuel injection systemand not very good at keeping dirt and water out causing corrosion. This in turn puts strain on the poor regulator/rectifier which is working hard to try to keep up with the demands of the entire system overheating as it does leading, again, to early failure. Triumph took a long time to learn that lesson but now elecrtics are more reliable.
PS, you've made that Job a lot harder than it needs to be, Just remove the entire seat cowl in the first place then access to everything is so much easier.
Thanks for sharing Roy, and interesting points about the alternator.
Indeed, if I were to do it again I think i'd strip more down for better access. But got there in the end at least.
Sweet natural background music
Xlnt thanks mate. This will be useful .... ordering mine soon 👍🏼
Can you tell me where do you bought the upgrade cables?
You can purchase them off a guy on the Sprint facebook group who makes them specifically for this application. Hope that helps
@@SPANNERRASH do you have the full name for the group? I’ve a Trophy 900 that I want to do this with so would be great to get the correct cables for it. Thanks.
I’ve found him. Jeff ‘pudding ‘ Halford.
@@davythree The group on Facebook is called "Triumph Sprint ST 1050", and the guy who sells them on the group is called "Jeff 'pudding' Halford", hope that helps!
@@SPANNERRASH thank you!
That was excellent - really useful! Thanks.
Thanks Keith!
The hardest part of this job, IS putting the seat screws back in.
Really can't argue with that.
Thank you very much for this video. Really helpful. Job done :-)
Thanks Alan, glad it helped you out :)
Can you recommend where to buy this cable upgrade, thanks
Currently I think you can only get them from the Triumph Sprint ST 1050 Facebook group, from a guy called Jeff "Pudding" Halford who makes and sells them.
Personally I would have capped that breather exit. Sods law dictates anything could magically jump down there and ruin yer day!
Not a bad idea at all, cheers :)
I'd love to get my hands on these cables, but it turns out the Facebook admins denied my joining request as they didn't like my answers 🤷
Guess I'll try to find a seller who's not blocked by an elitist 🤷
Good luck with getting them. If it came to it you could perhaps make your own. I think there are a few guides knocking about.
Buy some cable and crimp connectors on it.. it isn't rocket science...
Buying the wires and connectors would work out about as dear as the guy on Facebook who has gone to the trouble of working it all out for us. No doubt he buys by the mile so can make a little on them.
Fuck sake I wouldn't let him work on a mechano kit.
All I can say is it worked well.
what a poor design, understood that Battery will die on you at the worse moment (Murphy's law) and you won't have time and tools to do that job. The metal tank installed after 2007 (2008 ?) has a metal clamp as a seat locator that you remove easily. I have a 2007 and a bad battery. I am pushing it though.
It seems this is a weak spot on lots of bikes from this era. At least it gives us something to concentrate on.
5:21 most important part and is unclear and fast recorded e.e thanks for nothing
Not sure why unclipping the fuel line and vents are the most important part of a Pudding Cable video, but obviously they are to you! I suspect you took off your tank and didn't look at how the vents and pipes connected, maybe a parts manual would help. Sorry if you didn't find what you want, but thanks for the feedback anyway.