Tremendously useful post.. I've seen American youtubers do the same project, but your post made things so much clearer, plus the links to the necessary hardware all being available to us in the UK.
Really glad you found it useful. I couldn't believe how easy it was to put together once I got started. Others I have seen seem to make it far more complicated. Good luck.
17 minutes and 17 seconds of my life that I will never get back and I wouldn't want to Absolutely brilliant and why I love YT and people like you Thank You sir!
What an excellent video. So clearly explained and all the bits needed listed out. I've just spent £450 having all my ally bits for my GT750 vapour blasted. Wish I'd seen this first as i might have given it a go myslef. I'll remember this for the next project. This channel is becoming one of my favourites. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for the feedback. Really pleased you enjoy the content. £450 would have given you a great set up, but isn't that always the way. Have fun with your GT! ;)
Im really impressed with vapour blasting, I had never heard of it until a few years ago. I found a guy that specialises in it and he has done a spectacular job on everything Ive given him. Most impressive was bakelite fuse boxes, not only did it bring the bakelite up with zero damage but also cleaned the brass connectors like new, absolutely amazing.
It really is a great process. I wonder what media he uses for bakelite? I know that plastics can be done, but I haven't researched the media you would use.
@SPANNERRASH Sorry I don't know obviously very fine. until your video I didn't realise vapour blasting used abrasive, I thought it was just some chemical under pressure. He also covered everything he did with an incredibly expensive anticorrosion product used on the inside of airliners, no idea what it was but nothing even tarnished after being treated with this
Enough instruction, concise without telling us your life story. Thanks. You could make a magnetic wiper for the clear screen. 2 pieces of foam, and a couple of magnets. What's the CFM of your compressor? I know blasting needs a lot or air pressure as well as capacity
I am thinking of some sort of wiper system, but I am worried that if grit got under it, it might cause more scratching. I have a 14 CFM Wolf 150l compressor, but I think that as long as you are happy to work in short bursts a 10bar 50l compressor will work.
You could line the glass with acetate sheet, an A4 laminator pocket will give you a few usable windows. I found a source of scrap glass locally and cut my own windows when I blasted daily
Have been thinking of a VB cabinet for a while, you've encouraged me to build one. I'm sure once I have it, everything will be put through and I'll wonder how I managed without! Really enjoy your variety of posting and the manner of your delivery. Thanks, keep it up. Looking forward to future Bonnie vids.
Thanks for your kind words. We basically make videos of what we are doing, sometimes they work out great, others aren't so interesting. I knew this vapour blasting would be interesting. I couldn't believe how easy it was to set up a basic rig. Good luck with yours.
Absolutely wonderful build!!!!..I just sourced all of the parts to build a vapor honing setup like yours..really awesome!!!!..Thanks for sharing with all of us...I still have to find a windshield washer for my build..-John
I'm actually in the process of building a blaster, incidently using exactly the same cabinet (wonderful how ubiquitous the Chinese stuff as I'm in Australia) and the simplicity of your approach will save a lot of time and money compared to the Americanised systemsI have been copying. I had a change in plans and have disassembled my partly built cabinet to replace the provided nuts and bolts with rivnuts to overcome access difficulties assembling the hard to get to interior bits. Using automotive seam sealer as I go because I think it's a better option than silicone. Thanks muchly.
Great. My two main issues are keeping the screen clear, although it isn't too much of a problem, but it would be nice to be able to see better. And leakage through the seams that I haven't sealed yet, but you have that well covered.. Hope this helps.
Excellent video. I'm gonna build one here in the states. I already have the cabinet and compressor, and I've found all the parts on American ebay. In fact I'm going to use a pump with twice the power as the one you've used. Thanks for making the video.
Very interesting video. Just thinking. To minimize the grit build up on the glass before starting you could give it a once over with some Rainex and with the addition of an air nozzle blowing across it,it should stay clear.
@ depends on your screen material. I have glass as I prefer it that way. If plastic, you’d have to test it. In my situation before every session, I apply some dawn soap or windshield washer fluid on the inner side of the pad. It helps keep the view clear and clean. I haven’t seen any scratches or markings yet. For plastic screens, best to check in a small area, or apply soap and test. Best of luck. Your uncensored moment caught me off guard and had me laughing in my work cubicle.
I will take a look at this. Putting some soap on the inside is a great idea to reduce the surface tension. A little spray bottle that you can reach inside to spray it off was suggested by somebody else, which I might also try.
This is what i need to do to my sandblasting cabinet. Same one you got. But I would put in an automotive wiper motor in it with a water sprayer that hits the glass screen for better clarity. Ditch the large screwdriver and get you a paint mixer that attaches to the end of a drill.
Really enjoyed this video! Ive been looking into which media is not so aggresive for some small honda parts and dont want to chance a dry blast, ive had a few parts vapoured in the past which came out great but cost me 50 quid. Subcribed now kkep up the good work 😊
I have found the glass beads I am using really good. They aren't aggressive, so won't remove paint or thick crud, but do give a good clean finish. To get a more polished finish, just means blasting them a little longer.
Great explanation. If I could suggest 1 thing is to knock the camera exposure down a stop as it's hard to see the detail in the bright finish of the aluminium. 😊
If you knew how often I have to swap ND filters around when trying to shoot at the back of my house. :) Seriously though, I do try to get a decent exposure, and I will try to get it better.
@SPANNERRASHmaybe coat the window on the inside with a paint protective coat that's also water repellent, might fix the problem but im not sure. Just an easy idea that popped up as its easy to place and replace/remove if needed. Edit: if anything if it doesnt work, at least its easier to clean🤣
Very interesting set up. Have you tried RainX on the glass? They also make one for perspex. The other option that might work is a ceramic coating product you can get for carpaint. That certainly works on my car for ease of cleaning.
Great suggestion! I will give that a go. I have ceramic coated things in the past, but cleaning the first with vapour blasting would have made it easier. I am intending to powder coat these items at the moment, so I am very pleased with how they are coming out.
Great point! But a bit of stirring is all thats required. Just to break it up initially. Once you have the pump in the agitation pipe keeps it well mixed.
Video was perfect and explained everything I wanted to know. Can I offer you a piece of advice in return? When you are agitating the slurry, why not use a paint mixing paddle for your cordless drill? I use it for mixing pool chemicals and it is really effective. Cheers
Great suggestion! And it will work a treat, however I don't think it is really necessary to add another process in. Once you have the media moving at the bottom, the pump does a really good job of agitating it. It really doesn't need much of a stir.
@SPANNERRASH sorry I should have specified for when you are mixing up the slurry before dropping the pump in. The mixer would have the settled aggregate off the bottom of the bucket in seconds.
thanks for publishing this. An excellent video. I am definitely going to build one for the cleaning of my C15 engine cases and parts prior to her rebuild. Thanks so much you are without doubt my new Lunmad. All the best - Cambridge England
Thanks for the comment. I have a long way to go to walk in Lunmads shoes, but thanks for the compliment. Get your vapour blaster built now. You won't look back.
Thanks for the suggestion but the water through the pump is all slurry, so if you added a fresh water feed to clear the screen it would then go into the bucket and eventually make it over flow. A squirt now and again would be OK, like when I do use the hose a bit. It is an area that probably hasn't got a perfect solution, but I will keep on trying different things.
Is this vapour blasting or wet sandblasting? I have a wet sandblasting attachment that came with my Kew Hobby pressure washer I bought in 1987, it gives good results but the media has to be really dry or the suction pipe will block. Using the foul water pump with the slurry would overcome that limitation and your video has given me the push I need to buy a media blasting cabinet and give your method a try, if not then it will be used for dry sandblasting, I find that the wet blasting I have done caused no dust only water and slurry the problem was not being able to reuse the media and keeping the unused media dry.
Looking for a definition I found.. vapor blasting is that the finish is produced through the flow of water borne abrasive, giving a finer finish... Which ties in with what other refer to it as. The big advantage is that the slurry recycles and can be reused for quite a while. As long as you let the cabinet dry out and give it clean between different media, you alternate between wet and dry use. Dry is better for steel that has gone rusty, or needs paint removing, where as the wet is better for aluminium such as engine parts, it also gives a nicer surface finish. Hope this helps.
The water cushions the media and gives a more honed finish. I think people use Walnut in a dry blaster to give a similar finish. I think blasting dry gives a rougher finish even with very fine grit.
Thanks for posting. This is exactly what I am looking for. May I ask what your compressor output per minute is? does it neeed more or les air than normal basting?
Do you think you could use a pressure washer instead of a compressor for the pressure feed for the blasting nozzle? Could you try? Only thing is I've had a blasting cabinet a few years ago and I quickly realised you need a pretty stout compressor to keep up with the air use. So even though I've got a compressor again now, I'm not even gonna bother getting a blaster despite really wanting one. But I've got a pressure washer I could use. They have very high pressures. Obviously you'd have to modify the system a bit as otherwise you'd be lots of blasting media due to the constant feed of water from the pressure washer. (fine mesh to catch the media to be able to re use it perhaps?) Also try ceramic coating the inside window, it makes it very water repellent. The stuff car detailers use on cars.
It wouldn't work in the same way. You can get attachments so that a pressure washer can be used to blast in a similar way. But from what I can see it works as a total loss system and wouldn't really work in a cabinet. Great idea about the Ceramic coating, I will give that a go.
Fantastic video, I'm starting out in restoration and this will certainly help in set up costs. In the video you mentioned about the internal light being waterproof could you advice which type of light set up you used.
I have a blasting cabinet that I use with fine glass bead. What would the benefit be from converting to this vapour blasting? Genuine question as I might well consider doing that conversion. Thanks
If you are using fine glass beads there might not be much of a benefit from this. The water does reduce the aggressiveness of the media. I suspect it will give more of a honed/polished finish than the dry media, but I haven't tried using the same media dry then switching to wet, so I can't speak from experience. I hope this helps.
Slightly more complicated than my cabinet build (on my channel). I use washing soda, rather than bleach. It prevents the water going rancid, has a mild grease cutting action and also helps inhibit rust in the cabinet.
Brilliant... thank you. I've project for the Christmas holiday now! Could I ask of the size of your compressor please, and will it run continuously without compromising the cleaning finish?
Thanks. I have a Wolf 150l 14CFM Compressor. Although after the first 30 seconds or so, it does start pumping it seems to settle at a constant pressure that is certainly enough to keep going with the set up I have. I hope that helps.
I have blasted with a 50l compressor before. The downside is that you need to pause to let the compressor catch up every couple of minutes or so. This is a pain, but if you are only doing a few things now and again you can live with it. I now use a Wolf 150l Compressor, which seems to give me enough air for continuous use. Hope this helps.
They both have their place. dry blasting is great for removing rust and paint, but too aggresive for aluminum. Wet is great for making aluminium look new, cleaning off the corrosion and giving a semi polished surface. Surprisingly I find wet blasting less messy too.
Interesting video and appreciate the effort put in to making it but that is not 'vapour blasting' it's sand blasting, grit blasting, media blasting whatever you want to call it. You can accomplish the same thing with a sand blasting attachment for a pressure washer very cheaply.
Thanks for the tips! I was just going along with what everybody else calls it :) I take your point on the pressure washer attachment, but that is a total loss system, when you check out the cost of media you will see how this will pay for itself too! Take care.
If you seal the cabinet, it should be a lot less messy. I find with a sand blaster, even with an extractor, you end up with media all over your workshop.
I find it a lot less messy. Especially if you sealed your cabinet well to stop the water coming out. Normal sand blastin, even with an extractor, seems to get a lot of media all over the workshop.
I'm using a 150ltr compressor, which does mean you can run for longer, but I have used a 50 before for normal blasting, just having to stop and lit it fill a few times to keep going. If you aren't doing a lot it isn't too bad.
TBH The compressor kicks in quite quickly, but there seems to be enough pressure as it is running to keep blasting continuously. I think if you want to blast just from stored air you would need a very large tank. I just wear headphones to drown out the noise.
@@SPANNERRASH Thanks very much, I'm keen to avoid too much noise from the compressor annoying the neighbours, I guess I'll have to investigate quietening it somehow. Cheers
I added 12.5lbs of media to the bucket. I think it would probably work with less, but that seems to be OK for me. You do need to do a bit of top of the media if you manage to keep using the same slurry over a period of time, but not by a lot. I hope that helps.
You can blast anything, I used the same set up with Iron Silicate to get the rust off some cast iron calipers. You can adjust what type of grit you have for anything, including plastics. With steel though remember you are using water, so if you don't get it dry when you have finished you will have flash rust on the peice very quickly.
I use a Wolf 150l Compressor, which seems to give me enough air for continuous use, but, I have blasted with a 50l compressor before. The downside is that you need to pause to let the compressor catch up every couple of minutes or so. This is a pain, but if you are only doing a few things now and again you can live with it. Hope this helps.
@@SPANNERRASH Thank you, that is very good. I have the equivalent of the smaller compressor at home and I am about to start restoring a Harley Davidson Sprint or as you probably know it as an Aermacchi 350. After that my wife wants to restore her father's Suzuki 400 Apache that she inherited. I am researching how to properly clean and get a good finish on the various parts that need it. I think a cheap vapor blaster would be the right tool for the job. Thanks again.
I am using a Wolf 150l Compressor, this one ebay.us/aXqh1m I assume most people wanting to try this will already have a compressor, although my Wolf one has 14cfm if you were using a smaller compressor you could stop every few minutes to let the compressor recharge. It would take longer, but you would still be able to make useful progress with that kind of a set up. I hope this helps.
I did say I assumed most people who want to try this will probably already have a compressor. I have a Wolf 150l Compressor, this one ebay.us/aXqh1m It has 14 CFM so I am quite lucky that it supports this quite well. I have blasted using a 50l compressor in the past. It is a bit of a pain having to stop to let it charge up, but you can still get quite a lot done. I hope this helps.
I am using a Wolf 150l Compressor, which is rated at 14CFM. It does start up quite quickly while you are blasting, but the flow seems to be maintained at a pressure that allows you to keep blasting continuously.
@SPANNERRASH There's a TH-cam channel that would be right up your street. He's grafting a Rover Metro body shell ontop.of a cut down Porsche rolling chassis to build a 6R4 replica. Peden Comceptz. He edits EVERY episode to that one tune. His craftsmanship is astonishing and his channel has grown really fast (deservedly). It's worth a look
I am working on an OIF Triumph at the moment, so my paranoia about this is very high. But with sensible and judicious cleaning it should be OK. You just have to be senisble in what and how you clean things.
@@SPANNERRASH I know of a t140v engine that had been blasted, cleaned out & after about 100miles of running is was totaly worn out, it was stripped cleaned out & run again but only for the same thing to happen. it was only ok after the parts were sonic tanked, beware !!!
I did say I would assume most people who would watch this will already have a compressor. If it is a standard 50l or so then it is a given that you would have to work in short bursts, allowing it to recharge regularly, but this would be true if you were doing standard sand blasting too. I am using a Wolf 150l compressor, which seems to cope quite well. I hope this helps.
When I watched this, I thought "This is the epitome of British man in a garage" - I LOVE it. Great instructional video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the feedback. :)
Tremendously useful post.. I've seen American youtubers do the same project, but your post made things so much clearer, plus the links to the necessary hardware all being available to us in the UK.
Really glad you found it useful. I couldn't believe how easy it was to put together once I got started. Others I have seen seem to make it far more complicated. Good luck.
17 minutes and 17 seconds of my life that I will never get back and I wouldn't want to
Absolutely brilliant and why I love YT and people like you
Thank You sir!
I wasn't sure where this was going :) Thanks, I am really pleased you enjoyed it.
@@SPANNERRASH Me either but then I laughed when it went to the positive...lol
What an excellent video. So clearly explained and all the bits needed listed out. I've just spent £450 having all my ally bits for my GT750 vapour blasted. Wish I'd seen this first as i might have given it a go myslef. I'll remember this for the next project. This channel is becoming one of my favourites. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for the feedback. Really pleased you enjoy the content. £450 would have given you a great set up, but isn't that always the way. Have fun with your GT! ;)
Im really impressed with vapour blasting, I had never heard of it until a few years ago. I found a guy that specialises in it and he has done a spectacular job on everything Ive given him. Most impressive was bakelite fuse boxes, not only did it bring the bakelite up with zero damage but also cleaned the brass connectors like new, absolutely amazing.
It really is a great process. I wonder what media he uses for bakelite? I know that plastics can be done, but I haven't researched the media you would use.
@SPANNERRASH Sorry I don't know obviously very fine. until your video I didn't realise vapour blasting used abrasive, I thought it was just some chemical under pressure. He also covered everything he did with an incredibly expensive anticorrosion product used on the inside of airliners, no idea what it was but nothing even tarnished after being treated with this
Enough instruction, concise without telling us your life story. Thanks.
You could make a magnetic wiper for the clear screen. 2 pieces of foam, and a couple of magnets.
What's the CFM of your compressor? I know blasting needs a lot or air pressure as well as capacity
I am thinking of some sort of wiper system, but I am worried that if grit got under it, it might cause more scratching. I have a 14 CFM Wolf 150l compressor, but I think that as long as you are happy to work in short bursts a 10bar 50l compressor will work.
You could line the glass with acetate sheet, an A4 laminator pocket will give you a few usable windows. I found a source of scrap glass locally and cut my own windows when I blasted daily
Great video. Well paced and no detail omitted. Well done sirra!
Thank you kindly!
Have been thinking of a VB cabinet for a while, you've encouraged me to build one. I'm sure once I have it, everything will be put through and I'll wonder how I managed without!
Really enjoy your variety of posting and the manner of your delivery. Thanks, keep it up.
Looking forward to future Bonnie vids.
Thanks for your kind words. We basically make videos of what we are doing, sometimes they work out great, others aren't so interesting. I knew this vapour blasting would be interesting. I couldn't believe how easy it was to set up a basic rig. Good luck with yours.
Absolutely wonderful build!!!!..I just sourced all of the parts to build a vapor honing setup like yours..really awesome!!!!..Thanks for sharing with all of us...I still have to find a windshield washer for my build..-John
Awesome, thank you! There a lots of suggestions to keep the screen clear.
Rains is good stuff
I'm actually in the process of building a blaster, incidently using exactly the same cabinet (wonderful how ubiquitous the Chinese stuff as I'm in Australia) and the simplicity of your approach will save a lot of time and money compared to the Americanised systemsI have been copying. I had a change in plans and have disassembled my partly built cabinet to replace the provided nuts and bolts with rivnuts to overcome access difficulties assembling the hard to get to interior bits. Using automotive seam sealer as I go because I think it's a better option than silicone. Thanks muchly.
Great. My two main issues are keeping the screen clear, although it isn't too much of a problem, but it would be nice to be able to see better. And leakage through the seams that I haven't sealed yet, but you have that well covered.. Hope this helps.
@@SPANNERRASH Planning on a pressurised fresh water ( garden hose ) spray bar with foot pedal for screen cleaning. Hope it works.
Excellent video. I'm gonna build one here in the states. I already have the cabinet and compressor, and I've found all the parts on American ebay. In fact I'm going to use a pump with twice the power as the one you've used. Thanks for making the video.
Sounds great! I'm sure you will be pleased. It revolutionizes parts preparation.
That's a lovely finish. I might have to think about what I can do with my little blasting cabinet now!
Go for it! It is very satisfying.
Thank you sir. Fantastic video, will definitely build one.
Glad it helped, well worthe the effort of setting one up.
Excellent video. Well done.
Cheaper than buying the $800.00 psi. washer set up if you don't need to blast aggressively.
Thanks, budget but good!
Very interesting video. Just thinking. To minimize the grit build up on the glass before starting you could give it a once over with some Rainex and with the addition of an air nozzle blowing across it,it should stay clear.
Not a bad thought, using air and Rainex, I will see if I can rig something up.
At 14:09 what you can do is get the magnetic fish tank cleaners. This helped a bunch when I needed to clean the screen in situ.
Sounds like a plan. But doesn't it trap the grit on the leading edge, and if does doesn't this scrathc the screen? Thanks for the suggestion thought.
@ depends on your screen material. I have glass as I prefer it that way. If plastic, you’d have to test it.
In my situation before every session, I apply some dawn soap or windshield washer fluid on the inner side of the pad. It helps keep the view clear and clean.
I haven’t seen any scratches or markings yet. For plastic screens, best to check in a small area, or apply soap and test.
Best of luck. Your uncensored moment caught me off guard and had me laughing in my work cubicle.
I will take a look at this. Putting some soap on the inside is a great idea to reduce the surface tension. A little spray bottle that you can reach inside to spray it off was suggested by somebody else, which I might also try.
Great instructional video. Thanks for taking the time to inform us 👍 could do with putting one of these together myself. Cheers
Glad it was helpful! And once you have made it you will find you want to use it everytime you take something apart.
17 minutes later, what 17 minutes?
Feels like 5 minutes.
I really like the way you talk, I could listen and watch you for hours 😁
Lucky for you we have a big back catalogue for you to work your way through. Really do hope you enjoy them! ;)
What a great idea, thanks for sharing. Next project sorted. Thanks. D.W.
Thanks for watching!
Brilliant ,Thank you for this , Keep us updated on any improvements please .
Cheers John, will do!
Doesn't vapour blasting produce a great finish, thank's for putting it all together for us, all I need now is a project, thank you
It is a great step forward in getting a good finish. And very satisfying to do.
the not so hairy biker of the water blasting world grin watching and enjoying your content from NZ thank you
Glad you're enjoying it. I am very peased with how it works for me, can't stop using it :)
This is what i need to do to my sandblasting cabinet. Same one you got. But I would put in an automotive wiper motor in it with a water sprayer that hits the glass screen for better clarity. Ditch the large screwdriver and get you a paint mixer that attaches to the end of a drill.
Sounds like you will have a great set up. There are lots of modifications that can be done, I just wanted to show the bare bones of a working system.
I learned a lot here. Thank you. Great job.
Glad it was helpful!
Really enjoyed this video! Ive been looking into which media is not so aggresive for some small honda parts and dont want to chance a dry blast, ive had a few parts vapoured in the past which came out great but cost me 50 quid. Subcribed now kkep up the good work 😊
I have found the glass beads I am using really good. They aren't aggressive, so won't remove paint or thick crud, but do give a good clean finish. To get a more polished finish, just means blasting them a little longer.
Great explanation.
If I could suggest 1 thing is to knock the camera exposure down a stop as it's hard to see the detail in the bright finish of the aluminium. 😊
If you knew how often I have to swap ND filters around when trying to shoot at the back of my house. :) Seriously though, I do try to get a decent exposure, and I will try to get it better.
You could rig a water spray onto the glass to clean it, it wouldn’t take much water to clear it, just a quick squirt.
Yes, good idea. There are quite a few upgrades I have in mind, keeping the screen clear is one of them, but I didn't want to get side tracked.
@SPANNERRASHmaybe coat the window on the inside with a paint protective coat that's also water repellent, might fix the problem but im not sure. Just an easy idea that popped up as its easy to place and replace/remove if needed.
Edit: if anything if it doesnt work, at least its easier to clean🤣
Very interesting set up. Have you tried RainX on the glass? They also make one for perspex. The other option that might work is a ceramic coating product you can get for carpaint. That certainly works on my car for ease of cleaning.
Great suggestion! I will give that a go. I have ceramic coated things in the past, but cleaning the first with vapour blasting would have made it easier. I am intending to powder coat these items at the moment, so I am very pleased with how they are coming out.
Very interesting and informative. Perhaps a cheap mixing paddle to put in a cordless drill would held with agitation at the start 👍
Great point! But a bit of stirring is all thats required. Just to break it up initially. Once you have the pump in the agitation pipe keeps it well mixed.
Video was perfect and explained everything I wanted to know.
Can I offer you a piece of advice in return? When you are agitating the slurry, why not use a paint mixing paddle for your cordless drill? I use it for mixing pool chemicals and it is really effective.
Cheers
Great suggestion! And it will work a treat, however I don't think it is really necessary to add another process in. Once you have the media moving at the bottom, the pump does a really good job of agitating it. It really doesn't need much of a stir.
@SPANNERRASH sorry I should have specified for when you are mixing up the slurry before dropping the pump in. The mixer would have the settled aggregate off the bottom of the bucket in seconds.
Thanks for sharing your experience
Thanks for watching!
Very clear explanation a must
Glad you think so!
thanks for publishing this. An excellent video. I am definitely going to build one for the cleaning of my C15 engine cases and parts prior to her rebuild. Thanks so much you are without doubt my new Lunmad. All the best - Cambridge England
Thanks for the comment. I have a long way to go to walk in Lunmads shoes, but thanks for the compliment. Get your vapour blaster built now. You won't look back.
I'm keen to build one of these.
Don't hold back, it is a game changer!
Great set up. Have you thought of tapping your clean water feed to direct a jet to wash the screen, or possibly use a 12v screen wash pump?
Thanks for the suggestion but the water through the pump is all slurry, so if you added a fresh water feed to clear the screen it would then go into the bucket and eventually make it over flow. A squirt now and again would be OK, like when I do use the hose a bit. It is an area that probably hasn't got a perfect solution, but I will keep on trying different things.
Is this vapour blasting or wet sandblasting?
I have a wet sandblasting attachment that came with my Kew Hobby pressure washer I bought in 1987, it gives good results but the media has to be really dry or the suction pipe will block.
Using the foul water pump with the slurry would overcome that limitation and your video has given me the push I need to buy a media blasting cabinet and give your method a try, if not then it will be used for dry sandblasting, I find that the wet blasting I have done caused no dust only water and slurry the problem was not being able to reuse the media and keeping the unused media dry.
Looking for a definition I found.. vapor blasting is that the finish is produced through the flow of water borne abrasive, giving a finer finish... Which ties in with what other refer to it as.
The big advantage is that the slurry recycles and can be reused for quite a while. As long as you let the cabinet dry out and give it clean between different media, you alternate between wet and dry use. Dry is better for steel that has gone rusty, or needs paint removing, where as the wet is better for aluminium such as engine parts, it also gives a nicer surface finish.
Hope this helps.
well, if you can use dry fine grit media to get about or the same finish. What is the difference to get wet? Does the water improve the results?
The water cushions the media and gives a more honed finish. I think people use Walnut in a dry blaster to give a similar finish. I think blasting dry gives a rougher finish even with very fine grit.
Great video. Would applying RainX or a similar product to the interior side of the glass help reduce water build up?
Sounds like a great idea and I will give it a go.
What about putting in a UTV/SXS windshield wiper (motor/blade) to squeege your view?
Some sort of wiper does sound like a good idea. But I am worried about getting gritt caught in one, scratching the screen.
@SPANNERRASH valid! I bet it might be worth a shot, esp. w/ a soft blade, maybe a voltage controller to control speed as well.
Thanks for posting. This is exactly what I am looking for. May I ask what your compressor output per minute is? does it neeed more or les air than normal basting?
No worries, the compressor is a 150L 14CFM model, see link in description to see the spec. I'd say about the same air consumption as normal blasting.
Do you think you could use a pressure washer instead of a compressor for the pressure feed for the blasting nozzle? Could you try? Only thing is I've had a blasting cabinet a few years ago and I quickly realised you need a pretty stout compressor to keep up with the air use. So even though I've got a compressor again now, I'm not even gonna bother getting a blaster despite really wanting one. But I've got a pressure washer I could use. They have very high pressures.
Obviously you'd have to modify the system a bit as otherwise you'd be lots of blasting media due to the constant feed of water from the pressure washer. (fine mesh to catch the media to be able to re use it perhaps?)
Also try ceramic coating the inside window, it makes it very water repellent. The stuff car detailers use on cars.
It wouldn't work in the same way. You can get attachments so that a pressure washer can be used to blast in a similar way. But from what I can see it works as a total loss system and wouldn't really work in a cabinet.
Great idea about the Ceramic coating, I will give that a go.
Great video, keep up with this great content. What size compressor should I use? And what is usage of air in l/min?
I'm using a 150l 14CFM compressor. I have put a link to the type in the description.
Fantastic video, I'm starting out in restoration and this will certainly help in set up costs.
In the video you mentioned about the internal light being waterproof could you advice which type of light set up you used.
I have used a short led waterproof baton type of light. Here is a link to a similar on ebay.us/VUNZ0b
Just wondering, are they bearing surfaces on the inside of your components? Should they be protected from the blasting media?
The masking on the hubs covers the area where the bearings seat. It is something that needs to be considered when masking.
I have a blasting cabinet that I use with fine glass bead. What would the benefit be from converting to this vapour blasting? Genuine question as I might well consider doing that conversion. Thanks
If you are using fine glass beads there might not be much of a benefit from this. The water does reduce the aggressiveness of the media. I suspect it will give more of a honed/polished finish than the dry media, but I haven't tried using the same media dry then switching to wet, so I can't speak from experience. I hope this helps.
Slightly more complicated than my cabinet build (on my channel). I use washing soda, rather than bleach. It prevents the water going rancid, has a mild grease cutting action and also helps inhibit rust in the cabinet.
I'll have to give the soda a go. Thanks very much.
Fantastic! Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Brilliant... thank you. I've project for the Christmas holiday now! Could I ask of the size of your compressor please, and will it run continuously without compromising the cleaning finish?
Thanks. I have a Wolf 150l 14CFM Compressor. Although after the first 30 seconds or so, it does start pumping it seems to settle at a constant pressure that is certainly enough to keep going with the set up I have. I hope that helps.
what is the minimum size of the compresso tank you need for blasting ? (I've got a 50 L tank on my compressor)
I have blasted with a 50l compressor before. The downside is that you need to pause to let the compressor catch up every couple of minutes or so. This is a pain, but if you are only doing a few things now and again you can live with it. I now use a Wolf 150l Compressor, which seems to give me enough air for continuous use. Hope this helps.
Why vapor versus dry blasting? That works well. I have a spare cabinet and new gloves already, so this shouldn't cost too much.
They both have their place. dry blasting is great for removing rust and paint, but too aggresive for aluminum. Wet is great for making aluminium look new, cleaning off the corrosion and giving a semi polished surface. Surprisingly I find wet blasting less messy too.
What a great video! Thanks for posting. Just thinking about building one myself.
Where can I find the list of parts you used
Thanks, there is a pretty full list in the description, just click on the links.
great video
Glad you enjoyed it
great stuff.
Glad you enjoyed it
Tell me please about your compressor. How many liters per minute makes?
I'm using a Wolf 150l Compressor. It is rated at 14 CFM. It pretty much allows continuous blasting, but you do have to listen to it running :)
Great video. Super useful.
Glad you think so!
Interesting video and appreciate the effort put in to making it but that is not 'vapour blasting' it's sand blasting, grit blasting, media blasting whatever you want to call it. You can accomplish the same thing with a sand blasting attachment for a pressure washer very cheaply.
Thanks for the tips! I was just going along with what everybody else calls it :) I take your point on the pressure washer attachment, but that is a total loss system, when you check out the cost of media you will see how this will pay for itself too! Take care.
Hopefully not a dumb question, but would you find vb more useful in a small space than a sandblaster?
If you seal the cabinet, it should be a lot less messy. I find with a sand blaster, even with an extractor, you end up with media all over your workshop.
I find it a lot less messy. Especially if you sealed your cabinet well to stop the water coming out. Normal sand blastin, even with an extractor, seems to get a lot of media all over the workshop.
what size compressor are you using. I dont think mine is man enough. receiver is only 50L as well
I'm using a 150ltr compressor, which does mean you can run for longer, but I have used a 50 before for normal blasting, just having to stop and lit it fill a few times to keep going. If you aren't doing a lot it isn't too bad.
How long can you blast before the compressor kicks in with a 150ltr tank?
TBH The compressor kicks in quite quickly, but there seems to be enough pressure as it is running to keep blasting continuously. I think if you want to blast just from stored air you would need a very large tank. I just wear headphones to drown out the noise.
@@SPANNERRASH Thanks very much, I'm keen to avoid too much noise from the compressor annoying the neighbours, I guess I'll have to investigate quietening it somehow. Cheers
Where did you get that cabinet from? Thanks.
It is a pretty standard eBay one. There is a link to one in the description, they seem to have changed the colour, though! :)
What is your water to media ratio? Great video by the way.
I added 12.5lbs of media to the bucket. I think it would probably work with less, but that seems to be OK for me. You do need to do a bit of top of the media if you manage to keep using the same slurry over a period of time, but not by a lot. I hope that helps.
Can you blast other materials like steel
You can blast anything, I used the same set up with Iron Silicate to get the rust off some cast iron calipers. You can adjust what type of grit you have for anything, including plastics. With steel though remember you are using water, so if you don't get it dry when you have finished you will have flash rust on the peice very quickly.
How big is your compressor? From what I have heard the problem is that they take a huge compressor to keep up.
I use a Wolf 150l Compressor, which seems to give me enough air for continuous use, but, I have blasted with a 50l compressor before. The downside is that you need to pause to let the compressor catch up every couple of minutes or so. This is a pain, but if you are only doing a few things now and again you can live with it. Hope this helps.
@@SPANNERRASH Thank you, that is very good. I have the equivalent of the smaller compressor at home and I am about to start restoring a Harley Davidson Sprint or as you probably know it as an Aermacchi 350. After that my wife wants to restore her father's Suzuki 400 Apache that she inherited. I am researching how to properly clean and get a good finish on the various parts that need it. I think a cheap vapor blaster would be the right tool for the job.
Thanks again.
What cfm is your compressor thanks
I'm using a Wolf 150 l with 14CFM.
you didn't mention anything about compressor, how much CFM is minimum
I am using a Wolf 150l Compressor, this one ebay.us/aXqh1m
I assume most people wanting to try this will already have a compressor, although my Wolf one has 14cfm if you were using a smaller compressor you could stop every few minutes to let the compressor recharge. It would take longer, but you would still be able to make useful progress with that kind of a set up.
I hope this helps.
I did say I assumed most people who want to try this will probably already have a compressor.
I have a Wolf 150l Compressor, this one ebay.us/aXqh1m
It has 14 CFM so I am quite lucky that it supports this quite well. I have blasted using a 50l compressor in the past. It is a bit of a pain having to stop to let it charge up, but you can still get quite a lot done.
I hope this helps.
I am using a Wolf 150l Compressor, which is rated at 14CFM. It does start up quite quickly while you are blasting, but the flow seems to be maintained at a pressure that allows you to keep blasting continuously.
You guys must be fans of Peden Conceptz as well 😂
This must mean something, but I am not sure what. Thanks anyway.
@SPANNERRASH There's a TH-cam channel that would be right up your street. He's grafting a Rover Metro body shell ontop.of a cut down Porsche rolling chassis to build a 6R4 replica. Peden Comceptz. He edits EVERY episode to that one tune. His craftsmanship is astonishing and his channel has grown really fast (deservedly). It's worth a look
Better than simply sand blast …?
I wouldn't sand blast alloy engine parts, or wet blast rusty painted cast iron parts. Horses for courses. :)
@ cheers ! I am personally looking at a system for old windows / doors . The only I saw is a CO2 But …$$
Any idea !!
@@ikust007 Sorry mate but absolutely no idea on that. Never used that type before.
@ no problem sir !
Ive read where people have had engine parts done & the media is impossible to 100% remove, leading to engine destruction, be careful..
I am working on an OIF Triumph at the moment, so my paranoia about this is very high. But with sensible and judicious cleaning it should be OK. You just have to be senisble in what and how you clean things.
@@SPANNERRASH I know of a t140v engine that had been blasted, cleaned out & after about 100miles of running is was totaly worn out, it was stripped cleaned out & run again but only for the same thing to happen. it was only ok after the parts were sonic tanked, beware !!!
8:16 made me worry about your sanity, dripping wet hands. 🙄
But I did have rubber gloves on! :) :)
@SPANNERRASH wafer thin latex, I wouldn't entrust my life to them.
They rarely last longer than 5 minutes whenever I'm wearing them.
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WHAT THE @%*! IS A MILLIMETER!?!?!
🤣😂🤣😂
2/5 inch or 40 thou, hope that helps! But I did give lots of "imperial" measurements ;)
An awesome unit of measurement...
Why not a tractor wiper inside ? th-cam.com/video/p43MxUcZ8-k/w-d-xo.html
That does sound like a great idea, I will look into it.
Your hubs are worn. If you use them they will continually break spokes. Notice the groves beside the holes - they shouldn't be there.
Thanks for the advice. It will be interesting to find out! :)
By far the most important and expensive part is the compressor, which you didnt show and barely mentioned...!!
I did say I would assume most people who would watch this will already have a compressor. If it is a standard 50l or so then it is a given that you would have to work in short bursts, allowing it to recharge regularly, but this would be true if you were doing standard sand blasting too. I am using a Wolf 150l compressor, which seems to cope quite well. I hope this helps.