Bose Wave II - AWRCC1 resets and CD skipping. Repair "Please Wait" problem
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- My neighbor was going to throw out this Bose Wave 2 radio because the CD player was skipping.
When the player is first plugged in and you try to select between AUX, CD or Radio, the player attempts to switch to your selection but then resets and your selection is not made.
After you press a button, the display goes dim and it flashes the "Please Wait" message as if it was just plugged in.
You are NOT able to switch to the radio and hear it play, or switch to CD and insert a disk.
After the player warms up a little, you can insert a CD and try to play it, but the CD skips. I have already taken the CD player apart to clean the lens but that did not fix the problem
A special thank you to "The Specialist" on TH-cam who put me on the right path to repair the problem.
• BOSE WAVE II CD LENS C...
After searching the web, I found out that the surface mount capacitors used in these Bose radios could be bad. I went through and replace a good number of them and now the radio and CD player are working perfectly.
jestineyong.co...
Caps I purchased for this project ( I used through hole instead of SMD)
QTY Value Volts
5 1uf 50v
9 10uf 16v
4 100uf 16v
6 22uf 16v
3 220uf 16v
1 3.3uf 50v
1 33uf 16v
7 47uf 16v
New Nichicon caps (through hole) - measured values out of circuit
Value Volts Measured uf Measured ESR
1uf 50v 1.2uf 8.8 ohm
10uf 16v 11uf 1.4 ohm
100uf 16v 110uf .38 ohm
22uf 16v 24uf 1.5 ohm
220uf 16v 203uf .17 ohm
3.3uf 50v 3.8uf 3 ohm
33uf 16v 37uf 1 ohm
47uf 16v 52uf 1 ohm
I purchased the caps from Digikey. Below are the links...
Please note that I am NOT compensated in anyway by any link listed here. I simply put them here for your benefit.
Nichicon UPW series (through hole type)
1uf
www.digikey.co...
10uf
www.digikey.co...
100uf
www.digikey.co...
22uf
www.digikey.co...
220uf
www.digikey.co...
3.3uf
www.digikey.co...
33uf
www.digikey.co...
47uf
www.digikey.co...
jpg of MPU, CD board with measured values of the OLD capacitors in circuit...
www.dropbox.co...
jpg of power supply, tuner, amp board with measured values of the OLD capacitors in circuit...
www.dropbox.co...
ESR graph to use as a guide to determine if a capacitor's ESR value is within the acceptable range...
www.dropbox.co...
UPDATE: 4/21/2020
John Bosco and D_123 StL have reported that they were able to get their Bose Wave II working again by replacing one capacitor. Their radios were exhibiting the same "Please Wait" symptoms that my radio was showing. The cap that was replaced is located under the CD player and inside the metal box. When you pry the lid off of the box, you will see several silver capacitors. They replaced the 22 uf 6V cap shown in the photo (white arrow point to it). If you do not have a ESR meter to measure values of the caps, then replacing this cap and a few of the others inside the metal box would be a good start. It would be a lot easier than replacing all of the caps that I did in the video.
www.dropbox.co...
UPDATE: 11/2/2020
SMD
If using SMD capacitors, be sure to pay attention to the cap dimensions. As Infiniti25 pointed out in the comments below, the 16v rated caps may have a larger dimensions than the original 6v caps and will not fit on the circuit board pads. Their height may also prevent the metal can lid to close.
#Bose
#Badcaps
We don't have the know-how to accomplish anything like the incredible work you're doing, Mr. Terbush. Our CDs were skipping and we found that by allowing the Bose (we estimate it's well over 20 years old) to warm up using the radio for about 15 minutes prior to playing a CD, the CDs play fine.
What I appreciate his how gentle you go about it and your soft voice.
At least the Bose will function for another couple of years instead of ending in a minefield.
Amazing, was like watching open heart surgery! Great to know these things can be fixed when placed in the hands of an experienced engineer, thank you for posting.
Especially when one is dealing with a $500 dollar radio.
Thanks! I replaced two 22uf caps (because I removed the wrong one to start) and it works! We received my mother-in-law's Bose Wave II (but it is AWRCC2 on the label) and it had the same kinds of symptoms, --Please Wait-- when cold, radio/aux worked only when warm (either by hair dryer or leaving on for 24 hours), and CD never worked. Now, it all works. The --Please Wait-- only displays for the first two seconds on initial power up, and then everything's good. It took me two two-hour sessions, mostly because I was playing catch-up on my soldering skill (in the four days between my first and second sessions I ordered a solder-sucker and rosin flux ; I had never used them before). Thanks again to George and the commenters.
I love hearing success stories like this. Great job! It took me several days to complete my recapping using through hole caps. Fixing something that practically everyone else would throw out is very rewarding.
Thanks! My unit worked except for the CD player skipping. I didn't have an ESR meter to check caps, but I took a chance and replaced both of the 22uf 6V caps under the shielding. The one you pointed out turned out to have leaked. Working fine now!
Fantastic Kyle! Great job. Thanks for sharing your experience with the repair.
Thanks so much for this video. I have the same unit. Ordered 10 caps (same one under the shield) because i would probably screw a couple up. Those top solder caps are a pain. I was able to put a little eosin solder on the foil and caps with a fine tip 15 watt soldering iron and holding the cap with forecepts. Took me all of 30 minutes to have it back on the counter and playing cd's. Thanks again. I took out the 4 screws from the bottom, unplugged the 2 black wires, moved the cd out of the way and removed the shield.
George, today I repaired my stepmother's modee CC2 which was exibiting the same problem. Not especially wanting to do a complete cap job, I noticed in your comments a post about a guy who only replaced a single 22uf cap, so I tried it. Voila! Problem solved. so I buttoned up the radio, knowing full well it was chock full of caps with ESR readings off the charts. Garbage caps. I was glad to have done just the one successfully. I restore vintage gear. My tools and soldering equipment are ill-suited for this kind of microsurgery. Thank you.
Awesome job! Apparently that cap is the make or break part for getting the unit back up and running. The other caps may effect the quality of the sound. Extra points in your stepmother's eyes is always a good thing!
Thank you for such a detailed fix. You obviously are a patient man of high technical expertise. Surface mount components are notoriously difficult to work with. The fact you persisted and prevailed most noteworthy of your acquired talents.
Thank you Musicmany2k, I really appreciate the kind words. My eyes are not what they use to be so working with the small components can be a challenge. It was a fun project and very rewarding to see it work at the end.
Your TH-cam channel has beautifully restored merry-go-rounds and calliopes. Definitely worth checking out.
@@georgeterbush2976 Thank you. Its been a long time interest and actually owned and restored an organ at one time. I also paid my way in life via radio and electronics myself. Found that current flow and air flow properties both to be quite similar and interesting
The fact you would go to all the trouble of meticulously replacing all of those caps at this stage of your life is most admirable. It's sort of like me recovering all those pneumatics in an instrument and having the patience to do so.
@@Musicmany2k I love the sound of those calliopes. There is something magical about the sound. The engineering required to creating something like that has always been fascinating to me. Where are you finding parts to restore these treasures? I would imagine parts like the bellows would have to be custom made.
@@georgeterbush2976 Yes. Late 1800s technology...lol
You have to make your own with wood, rubber and leather. Even that is getting hard to find in quality
From the 4/21/2020 update, I can confirm as well that the one capacitor fix resolved my please wait issue! Many thanks for your hard work and thorough documentation. Top notch!
Love it! Thanks Cory for the info. So glad it fixed your "Please Wait" issue.
I can confirm that this procedure replacing the caps under the RF shield below the CD player does indeed solve the “please wait” and the CD skipping problem. Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks Bijan.
Dude, you are a hero. My Bose cd player (I've got a Bose Wave System IV) doesn't work and it is *so* frustrating. Skips like there's no tomorrow. Makes me so angry I want to throw it against the wall...but...the radio still works and I love the rich Bose sound. I don't have the skills to open up her guts and do a repair. Friends say, "Wha? Why aren't you streaming??" Grrrr...not the answer I want. I've already returned an older Bose model for this one (and received some credit toward the purchase of my current model, thanks very much). Not sure Bose would honor another trade in/purchase. Not sure I even *want* to purchase something else. Streaming seems to be the way, right? Yes, I'm old school; a luddite.
You can contact Bose and see if they still do repairs on that unit. I have heard from some viewers that they charge around $100
Thank you for the informative video. Was hoping for it to be a easy fix but like mentioned definitely not a project for beginners😅. Still great you were able to fix 👍
George, thanks so much for posting this video! My old Wave Radio/CD player was working fine except for CD playback skipping. I replaced only the 22 uF caps under the RF shield -- that fixed the problem.
That's awesome David! Great job. One more Bose saved from the landfill.
I found a broken bose AWRCC5 lying on the street. My "problem-capacitor" was the one in the metal box K3 47 6v. I don't have an ESR meter, but I found out by simply heating up the capacitor for a while and trying to turn on the speaker and with this capacitor, it did. Going to the store tomorrow to buy a new, fitting capacitor to replace it with. I appreciate your help a lot, thank you!
I love hearing stories like this! Carefully using a soldering iron to pinpoint the problem cap is a great troubleshooting technique. Keep us posted when you have the new cap installed.
My CD player would skip so I replaced the 1 22uf 6V cap under the metal plate. It works perfect! Thanks!
Hi Michael. Thanks for taking the time to write with the results of your repair. It is so cool to hear that others are able to get their Bose Wave II working again. These were really expensive radios and it would be a crime to throw them away because of a bad capacitor that cost 50 cents. You may still have other bad caps that will affect the sound quality, but at least it is working again!
By the way, great videos on your channel. I specifically liked the "2002 Saab 93 2.0 HOT Turbo Major Sludge Issue". It is a real eye opener. Makes me want to switch over to full synthetic oil in my cars.
George
Hi there michael do you replace only one capacitor thank you
@@papirickyrb yes just the one. very hard to solder the small caps.
@@michaelsmutnick thank you I'll check for the location on the cap
This is a superb repair. To not damage any tracks is a result in itself, I tend to heat up one side & use a probe or dentist tool to lift the leg & then heat the other leg to move it away but will try your technique on a test PCB in the future.
I was unable to purchase all the capacitors (out of stock problem) but did replace the one causing the issue. It works great now thanks to your help.
Boy they were tiny components.
Bob
WOW! That's fantastic Bob. So glad you were able to replace the bad cap and get your Bose working again. Do you remember what your symptoms were and which cap you replaced?
George, great instructional. It has saved me from having to replace my Bose System. Keep up the great work!
That's fantastic! What were the symptoms of your Bose, and which caps did you end up replacing?
@@georgeterbush2976 Initially had a power problem and replaced the LM7810CT, LDO VOLTAGE REGULATOR 10V 1A, But then I ended up having a skipping/play problem which was cured by replacing both of the 22 uf 6V caps.
@@Samael-Metzger Thanks for the feedback and nice job tracking down the bad 10v regulator. That's another victory for replacing the 22 uf 6v caps under the metal can! Some of your other caps could also be weak and starting to fail, but this is great that your Bose is working again.
Hi George. Thank you so much for your video. I bought online (at low price) a used Bose Wave II, which features the same "please wait" (seller didn't tell me). People like you are exactly why I decided to become an electronic engineer back in 97, unfortunately my opportunity to handle the soldering iron were limited and I spent more time on PowerPoint than the lab room. I will use this opportunity and your clear instruction to re-train myself. I subscribed to your channel and I am impatient to watch your next repair video, which are perfect practical training to learn/maintain technical skillsets. Thanks again. Greg
Hi Greg. Thanks for your kind words. Repairing the Bose Wave radio/CD player was definitely a fun project and rewarding since I now use the CD player almost everyday. For its size it has decent sound. I'm not sure how many more repair videos I will have since I'm not in the repair business. If I find another piece of electronics in the trash that is worth repairing, I will do another video. On the Bose Wave II that I repaired, it had many caps that measured bad. Your unit may not be as bad as mine. When my Bose was cold (just plugged in) it would barely work. After it was on for awhile it would respond to the remote better.
If I were troubleshooting another Bose, for fun I would use a hot soldering iron to try to find the cap that is going bad. Like on the German TH-cam. I still like using a ESR meter to take real measurements, but it would be fun to see the radio work by touching the iron to the bad cap. Of course, to repeat the experiment, you would have to unplug the Bose for some time to let it cool down.
th-cam.com/video/Gkm8CSs0T0U/w-d-xo.html
You have to be really careful when soldering on these circuit boards. It is easy to bridge a solder blob from a capacitor pad to a little round hole that connects a top trace to a bottom trace. I mention it in the video. My eyes are no longer that great so I wore several pairs of glasses at the same time and also used a microscope to make sure my soldering was good.
Good luck and have fun!
george terbush Thank you for your reply
The german video approach is very smart and I will for sure try it to limit my soldering efforts (I speak german so I could understand what he said too).
I watched carefully your video and heard clearly your warning while soldering the cap pins I will be really careful
I will work with the technician of my company who is really a soldering « magician » when he mounts 0204 parts or bga packages 😉
Whatever the outcome I will keep you posted
@@megagreg30 That's awesome that you will have a tech to work with on this project. If he can re flow ball grid arrays, and those 0204 grains of sand, you are in good hands.
When I replace the caps, I used high quality radial caps from Nichicon that are normally used on through hole boards. If I were to do it again, I would probably use Nichicon's UUD Series surface mount caps. They have about the same specs as the parts I used. They would be easier to place on the board. The radial caps I used were a pain to arrange in a way to fit on the board and not interfere with the CD player that is placed on top.
www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/uud-series/3760
Definitely keep me posted.
@@megagreg30 Did you manage to get your device repaired?
Thank you for the video help, you are correct! Success! However ONLY the 22uF at the lower right of photo at 17:05. The lower rightmost, in the metal shield can. I tried three over to very left near the orange mylar ribbon cable with no luck. I found refrigerating the board killed CD player then gently touching cap tops with solder iron revealed THAT cap did it. Unit plays entire CD repeat mode all night so I consider it done. Thanks again, hope this helps others not to replace all caps at this time. Yes, they all go bad eventually but hey, in meantime it'll work fine.
Nice troubleshooting with the cold, then the soldering iron! Nice way to pinpoint which cap is causing the problem. Many people here have found that the 22uf cap above the one you replaced was culprit. See arrow in picture...
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h5qvqv6z4fx6p46pli59m/IMG_1108-MPU-CD-board3-arrow2.jpg?rlkey=qcq6mnmmaajpor7gddvoaeilz&e=1&dl=0
I had the skipping problem problem and this solved it for me. I replaced all the aluminum electrolytics on that board and now it works great. I replaced them with the same size SMT caps. Thanks!
Great job Bryan! If I ever find another bad Bose Wave system, I will use SMT caps like you did. What series cap did you use?
I mainly used Nichicon UW series capacitors, but I ended up having to use one UCC part because of component availability. I just used Digikey, and filtered by everything that I new about the cap (value, allowable height, diameter, min voltage rating) and that's what was best available at the time. This CD player was an AWRCC2, and I just did all the capacitors on the board with the metal shield. Also, I had good success de-soldering the old caps using the 2-iron method using irons with chisel tips on them and adding a little extra solder every once in a while to help get everything melted.
@@bryanmwestra Awesome. Thanks for the update. it will help others.
Thanks so much for taking the time to share your work George. My Wave system has the same problem, and my soldering skills are not up to the job of doing the repair. Fortunately I have some friends who are excellent at doing surface mount soldering by hand, am going to ask them for help, using your vid as a guide.
@Etienne Posthumus These Bose Wave systems are definitely worth fixing. Hopefully replacing the caps will get you up and running again. Many people here have had success replacing just the caps on the smaller board under the CD player. I was able to measure values of the caps on my system and found many bad caps on both boards. That was why I decided to replace almost all of them. If you use SMD (surface mount) caps, be sure to order the correct physical size. As Infiniti25 pointed out in his post, the 6v caps have a smaller foot print than 16v caps. You also want to make sure the height of the new cap does not interfere with the metal lid.
If your friends need to order caps, these may work well. This is the main page for the Nichicon SMD UUD Series caps...
www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/uud-series/3760
The update from John on UPDATE: 4/21/2020 was spot on - saved me so much time and fixed problem - which was that the Bose would only respond to an alarm on/off keypress on the remote, wouldn't accept a CD, keeps ejecting. Works perfectly now.
Hello. help me deal with the same problem. What capacitor should I buy to replace it? which is under the cover to which the arrow points. Is UPW1C220MDD6 the right choice?
I had a similar problem with my Bose Wave radio/cd player. I was getting the "please wait" over and over again when I tried to turn on the radio, cd or auxiliary. I followed the instructions given in this video, but I only changed the capacitors in the CPU circuit board, the circuit board under the cd player. I figured that the problem was on the cpu side of the circuits rather than ton he display or radio circuit boards. When I was removing the old caps I noticed that only one cap had some light brown residue under it. Most likely this capacitor was the only faulty one, but I would not have noticed it unless it was removed.
I bought surface mount capacitors (SMD) from Digi-Key, very inexpensive. In total I only changed 13 capacitors similar to the ones in the Bose unit. I removed the old capacitors using the method described in the video. When installing the new capacitors I move the capacitors leads slightly inwards, it made it easier to install. I also used a thin soldering iron, the thinner the better because the capacitor leads are very small, and applying to much heat might damage the caps.
At Digi-Key I selected all of the capacitors from the same company (Panasonic). They have different company components, it is better to buy from the same source. Make sure that when you select the surface mount capacitors they are exactly the same uf and voltage specs(the only different spec that I changed was the 6 volt spec to 6.3volt because there were no 6 volts caps) and size (very important). Digi-Key carries same uf and voltage caps but with different sizes. If you get the wrong size surface mount caps they may not fit on the circuit board. The measurement that is important is the diameter of caps. The ones I bought were mostly 6mm, 5mm, and 4mm. I got them in two days from Digi-Key and it took me a couple of hours to install them. The Bose Wave functioned as normal from the moment I plugged and turned it on. Unless you look really close at the cpu circuit boards you would not notice ant replacements were done. I installed the same cover plate over the cpu section.
Thanks George. Great video.
Awesome "recap" of your Bose repair Tony! Thank you so much for taking the time to write it up. It will no doubt help others. I am dying to find another Bose Wave in the trash or at the recycling center and replace the caps with surface mounts like you did. I have used Panasonic low ESR caps in the past for repairing monitors so I know they are high quality. That's a good tip about slightly bending the leads out so you can get the soldering iron under there. As you pointed out, physical size is really important, both width and height, if you are replacing with surface mount. Once again, great job with the repair and write up! Another Bose saved from the landfill.
Ours has the exact same problem, and we take very good care of our CD,s such as not placing them on a dusty or abrasive surface!
It is not something you did to cause the problem. The capacitors inside were poor quality and deteriorated over the years.
The 22 mfd 6 V tends to be hard to find however, the voltage rating is just an upper limit, which must never be exceeded in a functional circuit. Replacing a capacitor with something that has a higher voltage rating is always safe.
That's correct. For this application, the physical size is also important since it has to fit under a metal lid. The 22mfd 10v listed below should fit...
CAP ALUM 22UF 20% 10V SMD
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UUD1A220MCL1GS/589983?s=N4IgjCBcoLQdIDGUAuAnArgUwDQgPZQDaIALAJwDMIAugL514BMxIAqmwCJgCCTTABgCyAYQAyYAOIBlWnSA
The 22uf cap worked for us as well! Thank you for the detailed information!
That's great Bernie. Thanks for the feedback. Did you replace the 22uF cap shown in this picture with the arrow?
www.dropbox.com/s/ft7k87yqbks6bfg/IMG_1108-MPU-CD-board3-arrow2.jpg?dl=0
@@georgeterbush2976 yes!
Hi George, thanks for posting. It's your choice of course, but I recommend you update your description to say that the "Please Wait" error can be fixed by changing the ONE 22 uf 6 V cap located under the CD player. There are two 22 uf 6 V caps under the CD player and the one located closest to the two 10 uf caps is the one that will fix the problem if a new one is installed. I wached your video and used your list to order all the caps, then I happened to read a conversation below which mentioned the one crucial cap. I installed the 22 uf 16 V which came with my order from digikey (per your list above) and my Bose AWRCC2 is back in action! Of course, the way shipping works with digikey, buying the extra caps is hardly any waste of money at all. HOWEVER, I almost sank the time and effort into switching out ALL (or nearly ALL) of the capacitors as you did, and that would have been much, much, much, more time consuming. Anywhow, thanks again because your video led me to a quick solution.
Hello D_123 StL. That's fantastic that you were able to get your Bose Wave repaired by replacing one of the 22 uf 6V caps. Believe me, I am all for doing things the smartest way, which is usually the fastest way. In the German TH-cam video where he had the "Please Wait" problem, he changed the 100 uf 6V cap and that got his Bose working again.
th-cam.com/video/Gkm8CSs0T0U/w-d-xo.html
I took a lot of measurements before and after, and as you can see in the photos, many of the caps had very high ESR (equivalent series resistance). The 22 uf 6V that you are referring to was one of the worst caps for ESR. It is very possible that by replacing just that one cap, my Bose would have been fixed!
If there is a weak cap with high ESR, it may be putting a lot of noise on the power line for that circuit. I do feel better knowing that all of the caps that I replaced are new and doing what they were designed for. As you pointed out, it was much, much, much, much more time consuming. : )
I will mention your findings in the description above so someone else can replace the caps inside the metal box first and see if that gets the player up and working.
Thank you for taking the time to order parts and attempt the repair and then to add your comments here to help others. It's really appreciated.
@@georgeterbush2976 Thanks for the reply. There's a real sense of satisfaction which comes from repairing a beautiful music making machine such as this Bose player.
Thanks for this video, but especially the note pointing out the single cap replacement that helped two others. You can add me to the list.
Someone asked on FB where they could dump a "non-working radio" and my wife offered me up to try fixing it. The guy just wanted it gone, saying it didn't work. Turns out it was the CD player only like yours. I replaced the single cap and it's working just fine now. Thanks for all the detailed descriptions.
That's awesome! Great job Scott! These Bose radio/cd players are definitely worth fixing for a couple bucks.
@george terbush
Good thing I read through the description. I was ready to replace all of those suckers 😅. Replaced that 1 cap and now working flawlessly. Found a lot of the other caps were way out of range but I won't lose sleep over not replacing them. Thanks for the vid,
@@AnonymosV4 That's awesome Noah! Do you remember what the ESR value was of that 22uf cap? (If you had a ESR meter)
@@georgeterbush2976 luckily I didn't throw the bad cap out yet haha cause I forgot. It reads very high at 92. For reference / accuracy the 22uf 16v onboard cap I replaced it with reads 3.6 on my meter.
@@AnonymosV4 That's great to know. Thanks for the follow up.
Your repair work is impeccable
I did the hair dryer thing for about 4 minutes. 2 minutes and tried. No 2 more minutes and it worked!!!
Using a hair dryer is a quick troubleshooting technique, but certainly not a fix for the problem. At least it shows that most of your Bose is working and that a few bad caps need to be replaced.
It worked for me too....I now keep it on 24/7, turning the volume all the way down when not in use. (You could mute it, but the mute flashes ....drives me nuts...LOL). Keeping it on it stays nice and warm and has been working all week like this!
Yeah its because you warm it up and if it gets hot it will work
Just got a Bose Wave system with the 3 disc changer from Goodwill for $5.99! Was flashing “Please wait” and I tried your tip with the blow dryer for 2 minutes and IT WORKED!!!!! 🙌🏽🛐💪🏽 This thing sounds GREAT! Thank you!!!
II had a same problem, but solved it! I tried 4/21/2020 version, changed 22uF*1,10uF*1,100uF*1,only 3 parts. thank you guys!
Fantastic! Nice job. Thanks for posting your success in fixing your BOSE radio/CD player.
Hi! That's great you were able to trouble shoot the capacitors. Do you have any information as to where the 3 you replaced were? Thanks
Hi, THANK YOU for the 22uf at 6v suggestion. Just a heads up. I took both 22uf at 6v caps out (both next to each other). On my capacitor checker they both read 12uf testing them. So I replaced both of them. Works like a charm. I didn't get a message that said Please Wait though. I just couldn't turn on the AM/FM or switch to the AUX. The volume went up and down and that was it. I didn't have any burn traces. GREAT STUFF. I'm an old tech that always did component repair back in the day. My eyes sure can't see things without an eye loop up close any more.
That is great news Duane! I'm so glad you were able to get your Bose working again. I suspect that you have other caps that are still bad and may affect other areas of performance, but Damn, to get it up and running again by replacing two little caps is fantastic!
I know what you mean about the eyes. At one point I was stacking 3 pairs of cheater reading glasses on so I could do the work. The brain still works, but the eyes are shot. LOL
You made my day. Thanks
George
Thanks for the video. It is surprising and disappointing that for the high price of Bose products, they didn't prevent such an avoidable premature failure. My unit has this problem. Warming up helps. Hard to understand why. I doubt that I will fix mine because it's a lot of work, and I don'r use CDs much any more. Mine still works as a radio, and amp for cell phones and Amazon Echos.
I agree. I have an old Panasonic clock radio that I have used everyday for 40 years and still works perfect.
Interesting case. Thanks for this remarkably thorough investigation and documentary.
Wow, thanks for your dedication and passion to resolve and share the outcome… much appreciated… I was looking for a fix before sending to Bose and pay the $123… will ponder on fix vs send… appreciate you…🙏❤️😊
Hi. I have a Bose Wave Music System III. I bought it brand new and everything works except it does not produce any sound. I did all the troubleshooting procedures provided by Bose Support but still no sound. Any idea what the problem is?
Thanks for your follow up. I was wondering about the cap that you labeled destroyed. Was it replaced with 16v 100uf cap?
Yes, I replaced that cap with a 100uf 16v.
In the picture where I added notes in the gray boxes, those are the measured values of the OLD capacitors in-circuit. I put them there in case someone else wanted to compare their in-circuit measurements with mine. I will make that clearer in the description. Sorry about that.
In the description I listed the caps that I bought to do this project. I substituted 16v for 6v in some cases.
Thank you a lot for providing this helpful information. A friend gave me a AWRCC3 that was having those exact symptoms.
Happy i scrolled to your latest update and only changed the 22uF capacitor and like described it solved the problem with the CD player right away.
Old capacitor 26uF, Vloss=5,1%, ESR=78Ohm; new 22uF 25V capacitor 22uF, Vloss=1,3%, ESR=1,5Ohm (measured unmounted with Multi-function Tester - TC1)
The only trouble I'm still getting is that in the beginning the remote does not seem to respond. But if you insert a CD and the whole system heats up, the remote starts to work fine.
I assume that this must also come from another capacitor with high ESR, i will focus on those on your provided photos marked with OUT and a high ESR. To bad that measuring build in capacitors doesn't give accurate results, because that would help to locate faulty capacitors without de-soldering them.
Great job Induleo! That 22uf cap sure was bad measuring 78 Ohms. You can still measure the ESR of caps in circuit to find those with high readings. Any component in parallel with the cap will only make the reading lower, not higher. That TC-1 sounds like a good little ESR meter.
As far as the remote goes, make sure you try a brand new battery in the remote first. I was about to take my Bose Wave apart again and replace the IR sensor because both of my remotes were having intermittent functionality. I measured the batteries with a volt meter and they read close enough, or so I though. I put fresh batteries in and now the remotes work perfect! Good luck, and thanks a million for sharing your experience.
Thanks for your quick reply.
So reopened everything and found out that it gets a bit warm around the voltage regulator LM317. Like on your photo, most capacitors around it had ESR measured onboard up to 20Ohm. So i decided to replace three other capacitors, both 10uF and the 47uF. The heat seems to make those capacitors age quicker than others, being trapped behind this metal shield doesn't help for better cooling either.
The first old 10uF next to the 22uF had 10uF, Vloss=2,6%, ESR=38Ohm; new 10uF 16V capacitor 10uF, Vloss=1,3%, ESR=2,6Ohm
The 47uF next to the LM317 had 49uF, Vloss=2,7%, ESR=16Ohm; new 47uF 35V capacitor 48uF, Vloss=1,9%, ESR=0,5Ohm
The second old 10uF next to the other 10uF had 10uF, Vloss=2,3%, ESR=39Ohm; new 10uF 16V capacitor 10uF, Vloss=1,3%, ESR=3,1Ohm
I also measured the remaining two capacitors onboard, the 22uF had 105uF, Vloss=11%, ESR=1,4Ohm; and the 100uF had 151uF, Vloss=6,6%, ESR=2,7Ohm. I left them in.
So after changing in total 4 capacitors around the LM317, all with rather high ESR, the worst of course was the 22uF, the CD player works fine again and the remote now reacts directly after plugin it in. By the way, checking the battery was one of the first things i did. ;)
My friend is happy to get his Wave back tomorrow thanks to your precious help an information.
@@Induleo This has been some of the best feedback so far. I really wish everyone had a ESR meter and could give their before and after readings like you did. Very rewarding. Great observation about the heat generated from the LM317 being trapped inside the metal can and drying out the caps. I never thought about that. You made my weekend. Thanks Induleo.
Hello George, I came across your video since my Bose is doing the same skipping thing on the CD. I've never used a soldering iron but I'm pretty handy and have learned a lot on youtube! (including tiling a bathroom, installing a ssd on my computer, and playing the guitar :-) )I bought the caps you used and am planning to just replace the ones in the cd circuit board. My question is what type of solder iron, tip and also what size of solder do you recommend? I appreciate your very detailed video and only wish I could see how you soldered the caps. Thanks again and I'll let you know how it goes!
Hi Diane. Thanks for watching. TH-cam is great. I learn all kinds of stuff here.
I used my old Weller WP25 soldering iron with a small pencil tip and for solder I used, once again, my old roll of Radio Shack 60/40 rosin core solder that is .032" diameter. I uploaded a few pictures of them on my Dropbox drive if you want to see.
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ywbiiwbuoftshtgx27tob/soldering-iron-1.jpg?rlkey=xas0ykp1jmi9tlxhe9ym9zh94&dl=0
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/n2wteelnyeyq3byoy9g6v/soldering-iron-2.jpg?rlkey=1delxx9z8h8irwu2nft9qb4xn&dl=0
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6zpug7r14ph14zlgeywdq/soldering-iron-3.jpg?rlkey=a2ibi06jwfsc9j6mzknqa18lr&dl=0
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/73im9d6kd79dxnmm7mj9h/soldering-iron-4.jpg?rlkey=smfbyd4adp9kt34wfxvzbtyr9&dl=0
Good luck with the project!
George
Thank you so much!! I'm watching soldering videos now. LOL!@@georgeterbush2976
This is not a good project for a first time solderer. I’ve been doing electronics for years and i had to build up a certain amount of skill before soldering on a board with surface mount parts. Just look at the pitch of those traces! Also , beginner or experienced, soldering radial can caps onto a surface board makes no sense at all.
Nicely done! Mine has a bit of the skipping problem too, until it’s been on for a few minutes. Now I guess I know what’s going on. Don’t think I will be taking it apart to attempt this though. If I had all the tools, it would be fun to try tho.
Congratulations! Excellent video.
I see it now. The jpegs look great.
Thanks again.
@george terbush Thanks for all your hard work and research. I followed your information in the description and eventually found replacement Nichicon SMD capacitors to replace all the caps on the CD player PCB. I did buy and intended to replace the caps on the PSU as your information specified but declined to do so since the device worked again just replacing all CD player PCB caps...why risk breaking something that doesn't then need fixing.
The needle nosed pliers technique works to some extent but takes patience to not damage the PCB and to hopefully still have a cap to measure out of circuit. I ended up destroying about 4 caps where the legs were not attached internally for measurement.
One thing you may have overlooked is that some of the caps on the CD player PCB have a 6v rating not 16v. This is fine to replace with 16v rated caps, especially if you are using through hole caps, but the size of 16v rated SMD caps for the space and pad footprint of the 6v rated existing SMD caps was only just enough to get any solder on. Something to mention in the description "if using SMD capacitors buy the 6v rated caps for the 6 capacitors 3x 47uF, 2x 22uf and 1x100uF. If buying a 16v rated 100uF cap for under the shield, the shield will not fit flat due to the height of the 16v rated 100uF cap".
I fitted the shield and it touched the top of the 100uF capacitors can so I placed a piece of electrical tape on the top of the can to insulate it then pressed the shield over as many of the lugs as I could to ensure it was secure then checked and there was 2-5mm clearance under the CD drive.
Hope that helps someone who needs to repair one in the future.
@Infiniti25 Thank you for taking the time to write with your feedback. I can definitely see how the larger 16v surface mount caps would pose an issue when trying to place on pads designed for the smaller 6v package. This is very good info for someone ready to order parts for their project. I added your suggestion to the page description above.
What were your symptoms on your Bose before changing the caps?
What series Nichicon SMD capacitors did you use?
These Nichicon SMD capacitors may be a good replacement for the 6v caps...
CAP ALUM 22UF 20% 10V SMD
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UUD1A220MCL1GS/589983?s=N4IgjCBcoLQdIDGUAuAnArgUwDQgPZQDaIALAJwDMIAugL514BMxIAqmwCJgCCTTABgCyAYQAyYAOIBlWnSA
CAP ALUM 47UF 20% 6.3V SMD
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UUD0J470MCL1GS/589972?s=N4IgjCBcoLQdIDGUAuAnArgUwDQgPZQDaIALAJwDMIAugL514BMxIAqmwCIAMAUqQHZuAWQDCAGTABxAMq06QA
CAP ALUM 100UF 20% 10V SMD
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UUD1A101MCL1GS/589989?s=N4IgjCBcoLQdIDGUAuAnArgUwDQgPZQDaIALAJwDMIAugL514BMxIAqmwCJgCCYADGACyAYQAyYAOIBlWnSA
This is the main page for the Nichicon SMD UUD Series caps...
www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/uud-series/3760
@@georgeterbush2976 Hi, the original symptoms were clicking/skipping CD...took sometimes 20 seconds to get a clean 1 second of audio. I cleaned the laser and the laser carriage regreasing the rail with lithium grease which appeared to almost fix the issue, but the next day I found that it was probably because the capacitors were prewarmed from all the testing. The next day with the clicking/skipping back I noticed there was a second problem which was worse, the CD wouldn't insert completely and LCD display would blink off like power cycled then spits the disc back out. I then got the "--please wait--" error after the LCD off/on.
Replacing all the capacitors appears to have sorted this issue and I have tested hours after the initial repair and then almost 24 hours after the initial repair, all working great!
As for the Nichicon series of capacitors I am based in the UK and I had to mix and match due to the supplier (RS components) I wanted to order from. I have CB, CW, UD and UT series SMD capacitors for the various values required. From what I saw, sometimes searching based on capacity and voltage rating only one series would be in the results. I don't think there were any others used for this repair.
The single problem capacitor with the height that exceeded the shield height was a Nichicon 100uF 16v (to replace the original 100uF 6v) UCB1C101MCL1GS with dimensions of 6.3mm × 8.7mm. The electrical tape and the slight curving of the shield won't cause any issues I don't think.
Had I looked at your images and the actual capacitors on my board I would have definitely bought a 6v or a 10v version to ensure a proper fitment.
I'll take this opportunity to again say many thanks, my friend is happy the device is repaired, it's the only thing of her son's she has and wants it in working order for when he visits, he lives in US.
@@Infiniti25 Awesome! Your symptoms sounded a lot like what I was experiencing with my Bose radio. So glad that you were able to get it working again for your friend. Sharing the critical info that you discovered about the sizing of the surface mount caps rated at 6 volts will help a lot of people here. I really appreciate it.
George, great video, thank you. I am now totally up to the capacitor replacement but alas my 80 year old eyes and shaky fingers are not.
Best wishes for 2021.
I hear you Bill. Your eyes don't need to be bad to have trouble working with this little stuff. Good luck with the project.
The "Two candle powered Stirling Cycle engine" video on your channel is a work of art! You have made some awesome projects.
FWIW, this video was invaluable again - fixed an AWRCC1 dated 2008 for some friends.
In this one, the can on the MPU/CD board contained just 5 capacitors instead of the 6 in yours.
Thanks!
That's great Dr Dave. I though my videos were only for insomniacs to help them sleep. That's interesting about the different board rev for the AWRCC1.
Hmm... I was wrong about the differing board revision; looking at my photos, I now see it's the same number on the board as in your dropbox photos! However, one of the capacitors is different. Instead of the 22uF electrolytic SMD cap yours had in the can on the MPU board (nearest the front/BOSE logo), there is a 33uF tantalum (labeled "336 10K 845"; the manual for this radio was data 2008, so the "845" might mean 2008?) in a tan plastic package! I didn't recognize it as a cap, so didn't replace it. (Probably wouldn't have anyway, given its longer expected lifetime.)
Now I'm wondering if this device had been serviced before, although I didn't see any other evidence than this odd cap. Also, the tantalum package totally covers the pads, so I wouldn't have been able to desolder it with an iron, but would have had to use hot air, I guess.
@@DrDavesDiversions I'm glad it's not a different board rev, but that tantalum cap is a mystery. If it were a factory referb, you would think BOSE would have replaced most if not all of the caps in the can. May it was done by a hobbyist or 3rd party repair place. You can be almost certain it did not come from the factory like that.
@@georgeterbush2976 Ah. When I return it to the owners, I'll ask them if they recall having it serviced; they were fastidious enough to record the original acquisition date (Dec. 28, 2008, and the date they ordered a second remote in 2010). Funny coincidence that the tantalum date code matches the date they had hand-written on the manual (2008). The manual copyright date is 2004.
Possibly it was purchased used.
The other Wave radio I repaired last year, I had bought refurbished from a BOSE factory store. As you say, no tantalums.
Thanks!
This is an excellent video! I have a problem on mine where after displaying READING DISC for a few seconds, it then reads NOT PLAYABLE. The disc mechanism seems fine, no strange noises, it takes and ejects CD's and it does spin. I have replaced the whole laser mechanism with a new one but it sill says NOT PLAYABLE after READING DISC. I have tried different discs also. Would it be a 'circuit board' issue, or mechanical? I'd be grateful for any advice, if this is something you'd know off the top of your head that would be amazing. Thanks in advance :)
Hi David. I did not see the "NOT PLAYABLE" message on my Bose player, but it sure looks like a common problem that many people are seeing...
community.bose.com/t5/Wave-Systems/Not-Playable-Message/td-p/218177
What Bose system do you have?
It would not surprise me that the problem is a bad cap on the MPU/CD circuit board, but I do not know which one it would be.
@@georgeterbush2976 Thank you George, I appreciate the assistance 😃👍🏼
@@georgeterbush2976 I forget to say, my system is the AWRCC5
@@david_wright The AWRCC5 looks the same as my AWRCC1 on the outside. It may have been built around the same time. Mine was built in 2004. Since it was plugged in all of those years, many of the caps have dried out and have gone bad. I wish I could help you more. If you had a ESR meter you could take measurements of the caps and compare them with my readings that I posted on the jpg's in the description above.
@@georgeterbush2976 Awesome! I’m not that electronically minded despite a love for tech haha, but I’ll let my dad take a look at it. He has a multimeter; I’m guessing that’s a similar thing? Thanks again George 👍🏼 appreciate the advice 🤩
there are a few 22uf 6v capacitors, are you using the 16v one to replace them?
I used 16v because they were through hole / radial type caps and I could lay the part on its side. If you want to use surface mount (SMD) parts, then height is a big factor. The 6v & 10v caps are shorter than the 16v cap.
Thanks for this video...my question? what kind of capacitor to replace 22 uf 6V cap shown in the photo ? where i could buy it.Please help.thanks.
It is in the description above. I used 22uf 16v through hole caps with radial leads instead of the original 22uf 6v surface mount caps that were on the board.
I purchased them from Digikey...
www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=UPW1C220MDD6&v=493
If you want to replace the 22uf caps with surface mount, these may be a good option...
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/UUD1A220MCL1GS/493-2242-1-ND/590217
Good luck!
@@georgeterbush2976 Appreciated very much. I will order 1 each ,right.?= 2.
@@RealMacoy Your original question was "what kind of 22uf cap did I use and where did I buy it". If you are only going to replace the 22uf caps under the metal can, then you will need 2.
I am not saying that just replacing these 2 caps will fix your Bose system. When I worked on mine, I measured each cap in the system and found a LOT that were bad. I ended up replacing most of them as you can see in the video. Some viewers who have posted here have found that replacing just the 22uf caps under the metal can was enough to get the player working again. There is no guarantee that you will be as lucky. If you are able to take some measurements and order replacement caps for the ones that are bad, that would be the correct way to do it. Capacitors are cheap. It's the shipping that is expensive. The shipping cost will be the same whether you buy 2 or 20 capacitors.
Good luck and keep us all posted on your project!
George
@@georgeterbush2976 Thank you so much.
My unit did the very dame thing. Sent it to Bose and they repaired it replacing 3 of the caps and the entire cd drive for $125. They give you a work up sheet and note the parts replaced. Thought that was a good deal. It is now warrantied for 1 year. Only caveat was the service time of 35 days.
That's great to know Marlene. I'm glad Bose is still doing repairs on these old units. Can you tell me which caps were replaced?
Mine is doing exactly the same. Now I know how to fix thanks
Try the easy fix first by just replacing the two 22 uf 6V caps located inside the metal box. Many people were able to get their BOSE going again this way. I'm still happy I replace all the caps that I did because I could measure that they were bad and perhaps they affected the quality of sound or operation.
link to picture...
tinyurl.com/yst4m8v7
Good luck!
Thank you George. You've proved to me that it's not a problem I can deal with. I just have to decide whether to get it repaired or just buy a new one?
It is definitely a project. I wish it were as easy as inserting a cleaning disc. Many people have had success repairing their Bose by replacing a few caps inside the metal can. Whether you replace most of the caps like I did or just a few, it still requires full disassembly of the unit and careful rework skills. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
You can get a refurbished Bose Wave Music System IV directly from Bose for $299. My Wave system 2 from about 2003 has just started skipping CDs. Not repairing it
I just bought a Brand New Bose Wave IV and it stopped working tonight. The radio works and the Blue tooth will connect to my phone but not Alexa at home. The CD player will not play either and it is a little over 3 months old. QVC will not return and they suggested calling the Manufacturer. You made an Excellent video hope Bose didn't use Cheap components in the New Models they are selling.
I sure hope the problem is not the caps. My Bose Wave was 15 years old and plugged in 24/7. Your Wave IV is brand new. I would go to the Bose Wave forum and see if a moderator can give you some assistance...
community.bose.com/t5/Wave-Systems/bd-p/cd-radio
Good luck Dave. Keep us posted on the situation.
@@georgeterbush2976 Talked with Bose Manufacturer today they said due to Covid they wouldn't be able to help me until tomorrow. They would be able to repair the one I have but not replace it since I purchased off of QVC. Its not even paid for yet? I think my Alexa Thermostat caused it to over heat when streaming blue tooth. My phone gets very HOT sometimes when I stream from it to my Bose Wave also ?
@@claystone7729 I'm glad Bose will take care of it for you.
Awesome repair job, congrats!! I have one now that friend gave me to fix cd player hesitating till warmed up problem. I'll try the the cleaner disk first, if that doesn't work I'll have to think about tackling your cap replacement approach.
Good luck! Keep us posted on what you find.
An additional thought. I was surprised at how easily the caps came out -- very little force needed. I think Bose had some problems with their soldering process -- so some of the caps that look like they've failed may just have a poor (high resistance, loose) connection. Still need to replace them, however -- not possible to rework the soldered connections or reinstall a removed cap.
There may be poor solder connections on some units but my caps were bad. I still have all of the caps that I removed from my Bose radio. When I measure them with the ESR meter they show the high resistance.
Mine has the same problem with the CD☹️, been repaired once by Bose, not going to bother now!!
Got it to work. I only replaced the caps under the metal shield , though. Thanks!
Great Job! Thanks for the feedback.
Fantastic Job! 👍
My Bose wave 111 shows on screen: PLEASE UPDATE. I cannot erase it and nothing works. What is the problem ?
Just being plugged in over the years wears these out? …what about if a unit was unused and in storage? Nice video!
If the unit is plugged in and basically being used as an expensive clock for years, all of the electronics are still receiving power, even if you are not playing CDs. If the unit was new in a box for 20 years, the electrolytic caps may still be like new.
@@georgeterbush2976 thank you!
I love these radios kind of hard to believe they still haven’t included Bluetooth on the new ones. The Bose 4 currently on sale 299.00 not bad
Do you have to buy each Capacitor separately or is there a kit...?
I don't know of a kit available that includes every cap that may be bad.
Is there any way to fix this without taking it apart. My Bose is 14 yrs old and crashed after a power outage. Only the clock works. Im sad cuz I used this for sound on my TV.
Try a full system reset. It's listed in the manual. You need the remote to do that
@@ScottFrye000111222 Thx, tried both quite a while ago and neither worked.
Sorry 4 UR Loss , I live in Ridgecrest 2 Years ago during our Earthquake my feel of a Really Really cute 3 leg pedestal Table
(I KNO🤷) Any who got lucky still sounds like a champ...Sooo
My query is what's the process to hook it TV ? PLMK. Thanks
Nicely done. Wondefull work.
Hi George, where might I find the ESR meter you are using? Cost? Thank you.
Hi Lawrence. It is a ESR-Micro V4.0 that I purchased 10 years ago for around $75. It was made by a company in Russia called RadioDevices. They have newer versions now, but I do not see an active distributor in the US.
www.radiodevices.ru/
I purchased mine from Brooke Clarke's website. He may still carry the ESRmicro line of ESR meters. It is a serious, old school site with tons of tech knowledge on vintage Military communications equipment, cryptography, electronics just to mention a few. Reading through his site would be a master class education. His site represents what the founders of the World Wide Web envisioned. A place of shared knowledge.
www.prc68.com/I/ESRmicro.shtml
I'm tempted to buy one of these cheap $9 ESR meters from China. I think they use a low frequency signal to test the caps so it may be tougher to test in circuit. There are tons of reviews out there if you search for "GM328" or "LCR-T4". They look like fun!
LCR-T4 version for $9
www.banggood.com/LCR-T4-Mega328-Transistor-Tester-Diode-Triode-Capacitance-ESR-Meter-With-Shell-p-1112140.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
GM328 version for $14
www.banggood.com/GM328A-LCD-Transistor-Tester-Diode-ESR-Meter-PWM-Square-Wave-Generator-Soldered-Module-p-1384846.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Thank you very much, George, for your most helpful reply. I appreciate it very much. Hopefully, I will be able to find the ESR meter. Thanks again!
YOU ARE FREAKING AWESOME 👍 😀 that takes a vast amount of patience. Congratulations and thank you for your video
Thanks Sqtar. When I made the video, I was hoping it would help out a few people. I had no idea over 100,000 people would see it!
This is a great CD player
Hi. I have a problem with one similar to yours, the clock is running late. What would be the component that would have to be replaced to solve the problem.
Hi Rafael. Although I have never seen this problem, I did some research and believe I found the solution. The Bose radios are normally setup to operate on a line frequency of 60hz (hertz). The clock in the radio is based off of the AC line frequency. If your country's line frequency is 50hz, your clock will run slow. There is an easy fix. You need to go into the Menu Settings (press "Alarm Time" button on remote) and change the clock's frequency reference. The Bose Wave II has 2 clock options namely "Line" and "Crystal". Changing the clock source to "Crystal" should solve the issue for you.
If you do not see the clock option in the Menu Settings, you can add it by pressing the "Alarm Time" button for 2 seconds. Once the setting options come one, press the presets button #3 on the remote for about 5 seconds and you will come to a menu which shows you the current clock setting. This will read line or crystal. Toggle the setting by pressing the time + or - key and leave it for 5 secs to apply the settings.
This is the site where I found the info...
www.fixya.com/support/t4784037-bose_wave_radio_cd_clock_running_very
Good luck!
George
I have a Bose Wave 1 with the exact same problems. Can I send it to you for repair? If yes, how much would it cost? I live in L.A., California
Absolutely you can send it to me. The cost will be 1 million dollars. I believe Bose was repairing them for around $100. You can contact them if you want.
Wow George, great video, lots of work pays off, Thanks, Mine just skips, I'm going to try to clean the eye and see.Thanks for the awesome info.
Thanks Kevin. If the cleaning does not work, the next step would be replacing the caps. I would start with the ones under the metal lid first. Many people have had success just replacing the two 22uf caps...
CAP ALUM 22UF 20% 10V SMD
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UUD1A220MCL1GS/589983?s=N4IgjCBcoLQdIDGUAuAnArgUwDQgPZQDaIALAJwDMIAugL514BMxIAqmwCJgCCTTABgCyAYQAyYAOIBlWnSA
@@georgeterbush2976 will do thanks!!
Hi George, I have the same Bose system and all i get is the clock display. Nothing else seems to work. I got it free from someone as well and would like to revive it. She said she tried a new remote control and still nothing. Any ideas?
Hi Tom. I only had one Bose system to play around with so I can not speak with authority on how to diagnose certain symptoms. Are saying that you only see the clock and not the "Please Wait" when you press any of the selector buttons? Even without a disk in the player, when you plug the cord into a power outlet, you should see the clock and "Please Wait" should flash a few times. Bad caps can cause all sorts of issues. Many of my caps were in bad shape, but I still had the radio work after it warmed up a bit. What happens if you keep the system plugged in for a few hours? Are you able to make a selection with the remote then? Also check the remote battery with a volt meter. I believe it should measure 3 volts. Good luck. You have a nice little system there if you can get it working again.
george terbush Thanks for the reply! The unit does not display the ‘please wait’ message either. Only the clock. I will plug it in for a few hours today and see if any changes. Battery is good.
I have left it on for several hours and still only displays the clock.
@@tomknull2336 It could be the power supply like what "B" found in his post below. He had a bad 10v regulator. You would have to take it apart and start measuring voltages and component values with a meter. I'm really sorry I can not be of more help. It's just guessing at this point without having the system in front of me.
Back in the day, I use to work at a computer company called Commodore. Myself and the other techs would each be responsible for fixing between 50 to 100 Commodore 64 mother boards down to the component level everyday! Most of the time we knew within a minute after it was plugged in what the problem was. That's the beauty of working with the same system everyday. I really wish I had that kind of experience with the Bose, but I only ever worked on the one that I own. I hope you can fix your Bose system and share your experience with others here.
@@georgeterbush2976 Hi GEorge, I am assuming it is getting power though as the clock is nice and bright. Is that not an indicator?
Thank you very much for this instructive video, George. My Wave is manifesting slightly different issues which I suspect are also caused by faulty capacitors. Your video and linked information has given me the confidence to open it up and start investigating the two boards, then get on with some replacements. More to follow after my ESR meter arrives ..... Simon
Good luck Simon. You have nothing to loose since it is already broken. What ESR meter did you order?
@@georgeterbush2976 Thanks George. Good point - it's a tosser if it's not fixed (as it won't even function properly as an alarm clock). I ordered a "MESR-100 ESR" on ebay for equivalent of US$45 delivered and hope it's good enough to do the business. It will take a week or so to arrive.
@@simonstuartmurray That MESR-100 ESR looks like a good one. I like the big display, the ability to replace the probes and zero out the meter and the 100k frequency during test. Very nice! Keep us posted on your progress.
@@georgeterbush2976 The meter arrived and works well enough. I tested all the electrolytics several times over and much like yours, mine were a tale of woe. I've order a raft of new (radial, non-SMD) ones from Digikey and will install these and report back again in due course.
@@simonstuartmurray The radial caps will be a little tricky to work with because you have to lay them down and adjust the leads so they can be soldered to the circuit board pads, but it can be done. Just take your time. The journey is the reward!
Hello! I have the Problem with the Wave IV digital. After once power off some days before now there is only a "Please Update" on the LED. I have updated ist several times (USB port / USB Stick / WLan) but no reaktion. I think there is the same Problem as "Please Wait". I heated all the Cap´s on the board but no reaktion. Any solutions or ideas?
I had this problem 2 years ago and send the Wave to bose and had to pay 160€ for repair. No i think i may save a lot of money for the next years by doing it myself
The "Please Update" on the Bose Wave IV may be different than the Please Wait problem that we are seeing with bad caps. Look at this website first...
community.bose.com/t5/SoundTouch-Archive/Wave-IV-won-t-update/m-p/35520
Found your video, I seem to have the same problem would you be willing to do the repair if I shipped you mine if so how much would you charge just thought I’d ask
I'm not doing the repairs but you can contact BOSE and see if they still offer the service. Good luck!
Great job...very interesting! I have a 14 yr. old Bose that is having exactly the same problems as this one. So, I tried the blow dryer method that someone showed ....blow into the cd vent for about 2 minutes. I guess it heats it up inside and it worked today! But I'm pretty sure this will be a temp fix. Anyway, thanks for the very informative video.....I like to understand why things don't work! Now I see what is wrong with it. And I love the Charlie Brown CD....Happy Holidays!!
Hi George. I put some heat to the second biggest capacitor inside of the metallic rectangular box. Now the Please Wait is gone and all functions work perfect. I left it working on FM for more than 20 minutes and all continues working.
Does that mean that the problem is gone or that the capacitor has to be replaced? Can it be that by heating it up a cold sold was fixed? I do not want to mess with it if not really needed.
I appreciate the work and information that you put together.
I have the answer - replace it!
After a long time running it I powered it off and the problem is back.
It is a Z3 47 6V. What do you recommend as a replacement?
Run another test and it is the biggest one inside the metallic rectangle box Z1 100 6V.
What replacement do you recommend?
@@RickATu2b On my Bose radio, all of the caps inside of the metallic rectangular box had high ESR readings, so I replaced them all. There is a German TH-cam video where he just replaced the Z1 100 6V and got his radio working again.
th-cam.com/video/Gkm8CSs0T0U/w-d-xo.html
How were you applying isolated heat to the cap?
If indeed you only have the 100uf 6v cap bad, I would replace it with a good quality surface mount cap that will fit in the metal box when the lid is pressed back on.
CAP ALUM 100UF 20% 10V SMD
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UUD1A101MCL1GS/589989?s=N4IgjCBcoLQdIDGUAuAnArgUwDQgPZQDaIALAJwDMIAugL514BMxIAqmwCJgCCYADGACyAYQAyYAOIBlWnSA
If you want to use a through hole cap that has the long wires like I did in the video, you can use this and lay it down...
CAP ALUM 100UF 20% 16V RADIAL
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UPW1C101MED1TD/4319914
The cost of shipping 1 cap will be the same as shipping many, so I would consider replacing the other caps in that metal box at the same time. Many people who left comments here were able to repair their Bose radio by replacing the 22uf 6v caps in that metal box so we know they can cause problems.
CAP ALUM 22UF 20% 10V SMD
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UUD1A220MCL1GS/589983?s=N4IgjCBcoLQdIDGUAuAnArgUwDQgPZQDaIALAJwDMIAugL514BMxIAqmwCJgCCTTABgCyAYQAyYAOIBlWnSA
When removing the old and replacing with new caps, think like a doctor and cause no harm.
Good luck Rick and keep us posted on your project!
@@georgeterbush2976 Thanks George.
I applied heat like the German guy did. I watched that and did the exact same test before writing to you. Any problem doing that?
I ordered a MESR-100 V2 that will arrive by the end of the week. I also found the ESR-micro V5.0 and would like to hear from you about it.
I noticed that the installed capacitors are 6V and the ones that you recommend are 10V smd and 16V. What is different when replacing capacitors by new ones with different voltages?
As the cost of shipping is the same what you recommend for the Z3 47 6V?
www.radiodevices.ru/esr/esr5.htm
Where can I order a B3226V capacitor?
I’m glad your repair worked but … why would you replace the surface mount electros with through hole ones? That doesn’t make sense to me. The surface mount caps are readily available, they’re cheaper than the through hole caps, and soldering them on would have been easier than soldering those through hole caps onto the board in that fashion.
Hi Robert. I mentioned in the video that this is NOT a project for beginners and if I were to do it again I would probably use surface mount components. I believed at the time that radial, through hole parts would be higher quality instead of SMD.
@@georgeterbush2976 Thank you for your answer. Since watching your video I’ve watched a lot of other videos on repairing these units and it looks like it’s quite common for people to replace the smd caps with through whole ones. I read that people people who repair video game consoles do this too. Interesting. I had just never seen that before.
Well I repaired mine tonight. That is the reason I watched your video. Now it works perfectly! Thank you for posting that. I was going to order SMD caps because I thought that is the “right way” to do it, but it turns out I went through my parts bins and I had all six caps (I just replaced the six on the board under the shield because I read elsewhere that those are likely where the problem is.) in through hole versions, all small enough to fit under the shield. So I went with those and didn’t have to order anything.
I agree , it’s not a job for beginners. It’s still a surface mount board, and it’s a tight space with a lot of small traces. And using through hole caps presents the extra challenge of cutting and bending the leads in just the right way.
It’s so satisfying to repair old gear and find a good home for it.
Just a note for anyone else with this problem: I saw one video where the guy said that he only replaced the two 22 uF caps under the shield and that fixed the problem. I don’t know if that would have worked for me or not - I replaced all six - but when I was removing them I saw that it was exactly the two 22 uF caps that had dry powdery leakage and evidence of failure.
@@robertthompson5908 Great job. Thanks for the update. Even though replacing the two 22uf caps may get the unit working again, many of my electrolytic caps had very high internal resistance so they were not working as well at filtering as the designers envisioned.
I have the same radio. My cd player sometimes has trouble ejecting a disc - seems like the disc slips between the ejection rollers. Does anyone know how to reliably fix this issue? Are replacement parts available for the cd eject mechanism?
Sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
Thank you so much for this guide, I have a Bose wave with the same symptoms and been scratching my head for weeks, assuming it was a mechanical issue from the clicking noise. I've just ordered an ESR meter and the capacitors listed. Can I ask why you opted for through hole caps rather than SMD?
Hi Lucy.
My decision to use through hole instead of surface mount caps was based on the advice from this guide where he said ... "I refuse to use new SMD capacitors for replacement. Current technology SMD capacitors are far less reliable and far more failure-prone than conventional TTH (Through-The-Hole) capacitors."
jestineyong.com/audio-restoration-repair-bose-wave-music-system-awrcc1-awrcc2-awrcc7/
That being said, I think fitting in the surface mount caps would have been a lot easier. SMD caps made by top tier manufacturers should be good enough these days.
What ESR meter did you decide to buy? Please keep us posted on your project.
George
george terbush I ended up just going for a cheap one on amazon from a company called Arceli.
I have access to a decent rework station with hot air so I decided to go with some high quality SMD caps for the replacement. I’ll keep you posted with how it goes! 😊
@@FelineGoblin Awesome Lucy! That's the way I would go. That ARCELI LCR TC1 ESR Tester should have a way to be calibrated when test leads are connected. This way you can test the caps in circuit. I'm curious to see what your cap ESR readings are. Take your time with removing the old caps. Very exciting! 😊
I have a few known good caps from other projects so hopefully I’ll be able to get it calibrated ok and I’ll let you know the readings.
I’ll be sure to take care when removing the caps, but considering the pads didn’t tear when you removed the caps with pliers I think I should be fine!
My only concern is that I’m not getting the ‘Please Wait’ message that other users have mentioned, but I am getting the same skipping and clicking noise. I’ve ordered a full set of caps and I guess I have nothing to lose at this point so fingers crossed!
I am trying to fix an AWRC1G Bose Wave Radio/CD that doesn't turn on. I replaced the fuse but that didn't help. Some sites say the Q4 transistor is frequently an issue but I'm not sure where to find it. Thanks for any input and your video.
Hi Seth. Sorry I can not really help you. I only have some experience working on my AWRCC1 radio. If the fuse was open, then you probably have a short on one or more parts. Have you checked the diodes and transistors with a meter?
I saw several sites where people had a Q4 transistor shorted. The part number is 2SC3792. They replaced it with a 2SC2655.
One of the sites is here...
www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/200773-fixed-bose-wave-radio-sound-2.html
I usually like to buy electronic parts from a reputable store like Digikey or Mouser but they show the part as obsolete and sold out. Good ol Ebay has them but I don't know how good they are...
www.ebay.com/itm/2SC2655-NPN-Silicon-Transistor-2A-50V-5pcs-/123089391357
Keep me posted on what you discover with your Bose radio problem.
@@georgeterbush2976 This is very helpful. I'm still not sure where that part is on my board - I've looked and looked. I'll keep you up-to-date. Thanks so much George.
@@seth8629 If your Bose AWRC1G looks like the picture in this link, I have a yellow arrow pointing to Q4. You should see Q4 printed on the top of the circuit board...
www.dropbox.com/s/8gbgysdmf67pfzk/bose%20AWR1-1-arrow.jpg?dl=0
If your board looks like the one in the article below, then the transistor is not marked as Q4. You have a different model radio than the people changing Q4. You can still check the transistors near the fuse and also check that bridge rectifier for shorts. - Good luck!
www.umonfw.com/diy/bose_waveradio_fuse_replacement.pdf
thank you ! this's very helpful.
I have one of these. The CD is stuck and the remote is missing. Any suggestions?
I have two Bose media centers. One unit, I cannot turn off the power. The CD/DV player not working. The other unit, the CD/DV player works but the FM stations and audio output for the TV or AUX is not working. Can you fix this problem?
No sorry. I only fixed my unit and shared how I fixed it with this video.
Thanks George...excellent video, will be trying mine very soon. TX again *****
I had the same problem with it saying "Not Playable" on a CD I know is good and plays fine in my other players. So, I put it back in the Bose and let it blink about 15 times and it eventually accepted the CD and played it. These Bose machines get weak after many years of use and become somewhat temperamental.
Yep. When the capacitors warm up a little, they work somewhat.
Hi.George Terbush. This is the model, Bose Wave SoundTouch IV. The remote control is very different, I think the method is different and I don't know if it fits mine. In my country, 60Hz is used. It is possible that you can investigate how to do it in my model, I will be very grateful to you. Thank you for your patience.
Hi Rafael. According to another web article I found, it is the same procedure for the SoundTouch IV...
community.bose.com/t5/SoundTouch-Archive/Soundtouch-Wave-IV-poor-timekeeping/td-p/79038
My remote looks different from the one in the first article but it worked just the same.
Mine looks like this...
img.archiexpo.com/images_ae/photo-g/67555-11449420.jpg
I wish I could help you, but I only have the one Bose radio that my neighbor was throwing out.
Good luck my friend.
George
muy buen trabajo gracias
awesome mate .. thanks ..
Great video George! Thanks for posting it. My Bose Wave II has the CD skipping problem. I don't think I'm skilled enough with a soldering iron to attempt this fix though.
Thanks Dennis. It's not exactly a slick production but the information is there. More than likely the caps in your Bose have gone bad, but it is still worth cleaning the CD lens like "The Specialist" outlines in his video. That was what I tried first, but without success.
th-cam.com/video/Yxc8O53dGII/w-d-xo.html
Another viewer mentioned that Bose will repair the unit for $119 but I don't know if that includes shipping each way.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do with it. At least now you no what the problem is and what is required to fix it.
Does this work without the remote?
You will need a remote to operate the Bose Wave II - AWRCC1
So if mine is please wait and turns off, no radio aux etc works. Do I replace some caps?
I have a strange situation maybe someone has experienced this as well. I have a wave 4, when trying to connect to Bluetooth, it pops my kitchen ground fault, also mine skips tracks. Like when you insert a cd it starts at track 2. Any help would be appreciated.
Try some Bismuth - low melt solder, you will be able to remove it NO problem. I think you will love the stuff if you have not tried it yet! Highly suggest... Just remove it ALL with some wick before you resolder cause it will make a really bad cold joint if you leave bismuth in the final joint
Thanks for the tip! I will read up on it.
Nice and tough job.
my Bose Wave is exhibiting exactly the symptoms shown in your video, and it's been driving me crazy! I am nowhere near skilled enough to attempt to repair it myself. Any chance I could ship mine to you and have you properly diagnose and repair it? Of course I would pay you for all parts, labor and shipping. Please let me know if you are interested.
Rick Stone Bose will fix yours for $119. Getting ready to send mine out
Hi Rick. Sorry to hear about your Bose. Judging by the number of people who have watched this video, you are not alone. I am not really set up to repair peoples electronics. I just did it because my neighbor was going to throw it out and I had nothing to loose but $20 in parts and my time. I have been repairing stuff like this since I was a kid and was looking forward to the challenge. This was a tough project, maybe tougher than it should have been. Some viewers here were able to troubleshoot and isolate the bad part(s) by using a soldering iron to warm up the part. If your Bose was like mine, it works better as it warms up. I took a lot of readings on the caps and thought many of them were in bad shape. I replaced most of them since I had it all ripped apart anyway. Unless you do the repair yourself, or bring it to a buddy, there is no cheap way to fix it. People are so use to FREE shipping with Amazon, but the truth is, it is very expensive to ship a heavy item both ways. You may want to try Bose service department and see what they would charge.
I'm getting ready to order caps but I don't know what cap to get to replace the 6v 170uf with? Thanks again.
Where are the 170uf caps? Is this the same Bose that I have? I only replaced the small surface mount caps. My large electrolytic caps both measured good so I left them alone. What caps are you going to change? You will need a certain amount of rework and soldering skills to do this job. It's very easy to lift a trace if you get impatient when removing the old caps. It's also easy to blob solder on the via through holes like I mentioned in the video. I'm sure you would not attempt this without a little electronics background. Just take your time and enjoy the ride. The journey is the reward.
@bob williams Hi Bob. Any luck fixing your Bose Wave radio?
Could you provide a parts list and where you purchased the caps?
It's in the description above.
Hi thanks for your excellent videos, my Bose music wave system iv is saying please update and I don’t know what to do next could you shed any light on this please nothing is coming on .?
Hi Jim. Sorry, I don't know anything about updating a Bose radio. You can try contacting Bose support...
www.bose.com/en_us/support.html
I also found this...
community.bose.com/t5/Home-Theater-Speakers-Archive/Wave-IV-message-please-update/td-p/117547
Seems like there is a software disk that you need to get from Bose...
community.bose.com/t5/Wave-Systems/My-Bose-Wave-base-says-please-update-How-do-I-do-this/td-p/207617
You can try to do a reset on the player.
The steps are as follows:
- Power off your product.
- On the remote, press and hold the Alarm Setup button until SETUP MENU is displayed.
- Press the Tune > button repeatedly until RESET ALL is displayed.
- Press the Time + button to select YES.
- While PRESS 3 TO CONFIRM appears on the system display, press the number 3 button.
community.bose.com/t5/Wave-Systems/Wavr-Radio-IV-Please-Update/m-p/273446
Good luck!
I think you need to connect it to your computer via USB and go to bose website, from there you can download an update
Sounds like BOSE really dropped the quality ball on these units…………… wanted to buy one of these units…………might have to pass!!!👀🙄👎
Brilliant.
Hi i have the same issue but can you direct me to the Tester you are using or a comparable tester.
Hi Michael. The tester in the video is a ESR-Micro V4.0 that I purchased 10 years ago for around $75. It was made by a company in Russia called RadioDevices. They have newer versions now, but I do not see an active distributor in the US.
www.radiodevices.ru/
I purchased mine from Brooke Clarke's website. He may still carry the ESRmicro line of ESR meters.
www.prc68.com/I/ESRmicro.shtml
I also purchased a cheap ESR meter from China that works but not as simple to use as the Russian one.
www.banggood.com/GM328A-LCD-Transistor-Tester-Diode-ESR-Meter-PWM-Square-Wave-Generator-Soldered-Module-p-1384846.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Remember to always discharge the cap before testing or you will blow out the meter.
Hi every body , if the selector is not responding(aux, CD,fm) or taking too much time to start , then open steel plate carefully find the capasitor 6 v 22uf remove and fix the new one thanks. I did the same .now it starts very quick and working well. Thanks.
Hi John. Just for clarity, which 22uf under the steel plate did you replace? There are two of them.
www.dropbox.com/s/y0f75hn8u0nne6b/IMG_1108-MPU-CD-board3.jpg?dl=0
The exact capacitor in your drop box picture shows is As follows ,in=68uf 17esr
Out=21uf 60esr
@@johnbosco8020 Thanks John. What made you decide to replace that one? Any troubleshooting tips will be welcome.
@@johnbosco8020 Awesome! Thanks John.
Answer from John Bosco - Hi George, the cause of this problem is weak capacitors, when I warm up the capacitors by blowing hot air it is getting starts easily, and it is complicate to find the particular capacitor. I let the system to get cool and I power on, so as usual not start. I warm up the soldering tip and touch the capacitors one by one, when I touch the particular capacitor it start working by this way I found the fault. Thanks.