Symptoms of bad CV joints are noted by many as “clicks”. I would say the sound I’m hearing on my 92 run into the ground, rescued 4 runner is more like big “clunks”. How can one diagnose with certainty, prior to taking things apart? Great videos. Thank you!
The only thing we had wrong with ours was multiple trips through sand, mud, and water with open CV boots so we figured we should replace them. We didn't experience any clicks or clunks. My recommendation would be to jack up that side, hand rotate the wheel and feel for grinding or clicks, then you could also go under and try to wiggle the axle itself. There shouldn't be any really notable slop. A little is fine but you could try and replicate it that way. That's what I would try but if anyone else reading wants to chime in, please do.
I just diagnosed my clunks today. Slide under the truck and grab ahold of the CV shaft. Shake it and try to make it move. Mine had a lot of okay and the clunk sounds was reproduced. I have installed manual locking hubs so I was able to confirm my sound was the CV by locking and then unlocking the hub. So happy had this sound for over a year and didn’t know what it was
How did you get the serration bolts on the passenger side seated after removing them? There is so little room, with the diff in the way, to actually hammer them in!
I think I used a punch if I remember correctly. Or I hammered them with the side of my hammer. You just need to get them in enough for the teeth to grip then they will work themselves in from tightening the bolt.
thank you for all the help, where abouts did you get your overfender's or were they already on the vehicle, and if you could steer me in the direction for some locally, i haven't been able to source some :/ thank you!
This is a really well done instructional video, thanks. What I really want to know though is where u got that roof basket decal. Would look so good on my white 2nd gen :)
Thanks! My wife actually makes them on Etsy. Check out this video and the links for the decal are in the description. th-cam.com/video/UGvBa9UXXqY/w-d-xo.html
In the middle of doing this and i seem to have messed up my studs on my hub tapping out the conical washers. only able to get 2/8 of the nuts back on the hub. i tired chasing the threads but no luck. any ideas or am i getting a new hub?
Hey! Those studs are threaded on both sides. You can back them out. Recommend pulling one out and taking it to a hardware store and finding replacements.
@@kurzhaarguy The ball joints were a pain without the right tool to spread the control arms apart far enough to get them out. Other than that, your standard ball joint press kit does the job fine. I would check for slop or clunking in your control arms first and if they are bad, just get new control arms with the ball joint already in them. Something I should have done had I known. Thanks for the support!
This is one of the easiest trucks I work on. If you undo the lower ball joint and the sway bar it slides right out because you can move the knuckle around freely. Little more work for less work in the end.
Should put some manual locking hubs on there to increase the life of those CVs even longer!
Pretty sure yes
Hey man, your channel has been immensely helpful
Hey thank you! Glad to hear!
thanks for posting this CV axle video.
Our pleasure! Hope it helped.
Bet you are glad to get that one done!
Yeah lol, only took 2 full days to figure out haha
Don't be like me and forget to grease your spindle bushings while the CV is out. Your brass spindle bushings and drive plate will thank you.
Thanks for the video. Really helpful
Our pleasure!
Symptoms of bad CV joints are noted by many as “clicks”. I would say the sound I’m hearing on my 92 run into the ground, rescued 4 runner is more like big “clunks”. How can one diagnose with certainty, prior to taking things apart? Great videos. Thank you!
The only thing we had wrong with ours was multiple trips through sand, mud, and water with open CV boots so we figured we should replace them. We didn't experience any clicks or clunks. My recommendation would be to jack up that side, hand rotate the wheel and feel for grinding or clicks, then you could also go under and try to wiggle the axle itself. There shouldn't be any really notable slop. A little is fine but you could try and replicate it that way. That's what I would try but if anyone else reading wants to chime in, please do.
I just diagnosed my clunks today. Slide under the truck and grab ahold of the CV shaft. Shake it and try to make it move. Mine had a lot of okay and the clunk sounds was reproduced. I have installed manual locking hubs so I was able to confirm my sound was the CV by locking and then unlocking the hub. So happy had this sound for over a year and didn’t know what it was
*play not “okay”
Great video, if you undo the LBJ the whole assembly slides right out. Just dont damage the boot on that trying to loosen it.
Awesome thanks!
How did you get the serration bolts on the passenger side seated after removing them? There is so little room, with the diff in the way, to actually hammer them in!
I think I used a punch if I remember correctly. Or I hammered them with the side of my hammer. You just need to get them in enough for the teeth to grip then they will work themselves in from tightening the bolt.
thank you for all the help, where abouts did you get your overfender's or were they already on the vehicle, and if you could steer me in the direction for some locally, i haven't been able to source some :/ thank you!
Hey out pleasure! The brand is Bushwhacker. Couldn't find their website but you could try amazon or a 4wheeling parts store.
Look up jungle flare they make a nice one
This is a really well done instructional video, thanks. What I really want to know though is where u got that roof basket decal. Would look so good on my white 2nd gen :)
Thanks! My wife actually makes them on Etsy. Check out this video and the links for the decal are in the description. th-cam.com/video/UGvBa9UXXqY/w-d-xo.html
In the middle of doing this and i seem to have messed up my studs on my hub tapping out the conical washers. only able to get 2/8 of the nuts back on the hub. i tired chasing the threads but no luck. any ideas or am i getting a new hub?
Hey! Those studs are threaded on both sides. You can back them out. Recommend pulling one out and taking it to a hardware store and finding replacements.
Do you have a vid on ball joints?
Sadly I do not since I replaced them before starting the channel. Thanks for asking though.
Well, shucks. I came upon a 1991 SR-5 that needs some TLC. Your vids are great. Thank you!
@@kurzhaarguy The ball joints were a pain without the right tool to spread the control arms apart far enough to get them out. Other than that, your standard ball joint press kit does the job fine. I would check for slop or clunking in your control arms first and if they are bad, just get new control arms with the ball joint already in them. Something I should have done had I known. Thanks for the support!
If you have a recommendation for sourcing, I’d appreciate it. There is slack in the control arms. And, I would like to replace all moving parts.
@@kurzhaarguy RockAuto has some good kits and there are complete control arms on there.
Where did you get those headlights
Hey picked them up off of Amazon. th-cam.com/video/FKrJOkaGovg/w-d-xo.html
Parts should be in the description. 👍
I wish mine had been that easy..I had to use a 3 foot cheater bar to loosen all 6 on ine
Thats crazy! They definitely weren't easy.
Well done! Hope I don't have to change mine! 🙈
Thanks! The key part for us was figuring out how to get the axle out without taking apart everything.
the best on hand video tutorial i had ever watched, and very detailed in each procedures and tips. 🫰🏻
High praise thank you!
So pain in the a$$ in general?
Hopefully less so now that I can reference the video for next time 😂
Toyota sure as hell don't want anyone to do repairs or modifications themselves.
Haha for some things they are awesome but others it's just a huge pain.
This is one of the easiest trucks I work on. If you undo the lower ball joint and the sway bar it slides right out because you can move the knuckle around freely. Little more work for less work in the end.