Thanks for checking these pads out, I've got a pair coming for my RTX 3090 FTW3. The manufacturer states the pads need about 30~ minutes of burn in before the pads reach optimal performance so that should explain why your results got better over time. Keep up the good work.
@@GhostMotley They are supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'll be out working but will test once I get back home, likely sometime next week. Will run the hotplate test a couple more times with these pads beforehand just to see if there is further improvement or not.
Nice job, thanks. It would be good to show some comparisons of the results of other thermal pads as well as copper and aluminum shims, maybe you could infer the actual conductivity that way. And maybe you could add a temperature sensor on the bottom, or just use a cheap IR thermometer, to see the temperature difference in real time.
I've got other pads tests with same thickness and gaps. Still need to do copper shim and aluminum shim tests along with some other pads and putties. Other pad/putty times are listed in the description for direct comparison.
I feel that if most efficient cooling of the card is the top priority, then nothing will best submersion cooling. I have hesitated mainly due to the question of degradation over time both of any plastic parts and of the oil/coolant. Like can the properties of the coolant change over time in such a way as to be a danger to...
Definitely good point. I'm also hesitant for a few reason's. Cost being a major factor, but I'm also concerned about some components that want to run cooler. With Submersion there is now thermal separation for the components so it would come down to pump rate and temperature delta and your heat exchanges ability to dump heat in the inconsistent outside temperature. Now if you have a flow loop from a lake or sea water then you can probably count on consistently cooler temps. Phase change is intriguing but mostly just well suited for making world records on a single component, not a 6-12 card rig.
It says it's rated for 2 years, but I honestly think it would be fine for much longer. The weak point of a GPU's thermals is the thermal paste. I'm hoping a high end thermal putty can be used instead of paste on the core and avoid the need to ever open up a GPU again.
For cards with GDDR6 I wouldn't recommend using these pads. They are designed for GDDR6X. GDDR6 doesn't run as hot so these would be overkill. If/when you do replace the pads I'd suggest using a Thermal putty. You may want to check out my video comparing the different pads/putties/shims.
So I know it's probably a dumb idea, but would it work if I got this for a cpu and just put a square of like 4 of them on it, or would that just fry my cpu or something?
While it is highly compressible, it would still likely remain fairly thick. Probably even thicker than Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet when compressed (0.1mm). I wouldn't recommend this for a CPU. I'd personally go with either a paste, phase change material, or kryosheet.
I'll have to do some more reading, but if it is similar to the ASUS Dual 4060, then the gap/pad may be around 0.75mm for the VRAM. Likely want to use 1.2mm thick 3D graphite pads. They will compress down to 0.7 without issue, in my opinion. You also have the option of going with a high performing Thermal Putry. Then you won't have to worry too much about knowing pads thickness ahead of time before you open up the card. You can find a link to the latest charts on Google Drive in my channel about page. th-cam.com/video/5Yl7XF2py30/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JTn5GFWSB7P6ekBC
@@filippos989 These 3D Graphte pads are only designed for VRAM, so you would either need to reuse the OEM pads elsewhere, replacement them with another pad, or use a thermal putty. If you can find the thickness of the pads for the VRAM mentioned somewhere it may be worth an attempt to buy the closest pad size. These 3D graphite pads compress extremely easily. If you can't find info the pad thickness and don't want to risk wasting money on wrong size, then Thermal Putty may be your best option. There are thermal putties that match the performance of the 3D graphite pads, with the added benefit of being reusable if you mess things up and need to pull the card back apart. 3D graphite pads are a good option if you are confident of the thicknesses and get a good application for for the card, including the core.
@@snarksdomain i am gonna buy it with your link mate , i was at work just aliexpress needs me to sign up :D the amount of money i spend on these cooling solutions :D lol but i am more happy i bought the putty 500gr :D it was expensive but worth it. growing my mining operations to 3-3.5 gh/s hopefully soon as i find very cheap cards lately. they all need servicing and thermal solutions :D but no more 3080's its just too much hastle. unless these pads or putty sort me out.
2.2mm 3D Graphite pads for the VRAM (OEM pads were 2mm, actual gap height is 1.8mm). These pads compress really well. With the Phase Change coating, they will also become very compressible as they heat up past 45 Celsius. It's the phase change coating that holds the thin graphite sheet in it's shape.
@user-gn2sf5tk7y Yes. These are quite compressible, but don't spring back like other pads might, so handke with care when installing. You also kind of have 1 shot to get it right so I would recommend taking extra care during assembly. With a pad sitting on a VRAM chip, press gently on the pad to make it stick the the chip. Doesn't take much force at all and you will notice that you have compressed the area that your press down on. The trickiest part is lining everything up perfectly when placing PCB onto cooler, so best to stand over top and maybe have some flashlight shining from the side so that you can look through the screw holes and line everything up before the PCB contacts the cooler. Once the card is fired back up and heats up from gaming/stress test, the pads with basically glue themselves to the VRAM and cooler. If you ever disassemble the card in the future, even a couple days later, these pads can pull apart and would need to be replaced, so no guarantees on being reusable.
I've just been reading up on your card. The backplate is an odd one, where you need 2 different pad sizes for the VRAM. This is not ideal for 3D Grpahite pads in my opinion as they aren't really meant to be cut to size. If you did try cutting them, you would want to have some Phase Change Material (PTM7958SP syringe type) to seal up the edges and prevent loose graphite pieces (electrically conductive). I'd likely go with a thermal putty instead, but that's just my thoughts on it. www.reddit.com/r/NiceHash/s/8WnTnii391
@johanniah6822 I'd recommend using any of the top 10 Thermal Putties I've tested. Charts are located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repositiory, VRAM TIM)
You'd likely be best with a different thermal solution for the backplate. That being said your card only has VRAM on the core side, and these pads on that side would perform extremely well. If you still wanted to do the back side you have several options: 1) Use a Thermal Putty Instead like Upsiren UX Pro or U6 Pro 2) Stack 2 3D Graphite pads (not recommended by many for any thermal pad) 3) buy a different 3mm thermal pad for the backplate Not sure if you've seen my latest video, but you could even use a thermal putty like UX Pro or U6 Pro on both sides (and then PTM7950 sheet, or paste of your choice on the Core).
I definitely like Copper Shim + Thermal Putty. I don't recommend thermal paste to be used with copper shim due to them drying out/baking. Baked thermal paste is also much harder to clean than old Thermal Putty. Thermal putty can also be used again. If it's hard just mix in some new stuff to soften it up, although I'd likely use fresh stuff between shims so it can press out easily. I need to cut a 1.5" x 1.6mm thick disc for testing so we can compare them side by side. Copper shims will work indefinitely but also take additional steps from prepping the card (Kapton tape). Not everyone has access to copper shims at an affordable price. These pads claim they are good for 24 months of continuous use, which is longer than a lot of other pads are good for when mining, but taking the card apart will most likely pull these pads apart so they would need to be replaced. Really the only reason to pull the card apart is once the thermal paste on the core has dried up. Ideally I'd like to find a product that can work well on the core and has longevity of use.
@@snarksdomain That makes sense, I will use thermal putty instead of thermal paste then. I also noticed you put thermal putty on the backplate for the vram, why didn't you put it on the back of the die ? Because you want to prioritize cooling on vram ? Anyway thank you for all your video it is really really instructive :)
@@racouline719 I didn't put any of the die for the backplate because I'm not expecting to gain much cooling using the backplate. That being said this card does have that option since it's enclosed. We're I to do so I would also add some copper ram sinks to the backplate. I've used copper ram sinks, and 2x 120mm fans blowing onto it, to good effect on a Strix 3090 in the past and was able to keep the backside memory nice and cool that way. I will have to reach out to the owner to see what his temps are like now.
Do you know if these thermal pads (in 1.7mm thickness) will work for the Nvidia 3090 FE? I read that 1.5mm would be best but i didn't see these available in 1.5mm.
Yes, the 1.7mm of these pads are designed to be used in place of typical 1.5mm pads. Depending on when you bought your 3090 FE it will use different thickness pads for the VRAM on the core side. If bought since Q4 2021 then you should be fine with 1.7mm pads on both sides. If bought prior to Q3 2021 then you'd want to use the 2.2mm pads on the core side, and 1.7mm on the backplate.
@@snarksdomain Great! I did get mine prior to Q3 2021, do you have a recommendation on how many pieces of each thickness I need to completely cover what I need to on the core/backplate? Sorry for the simple questions, I'm completely new to this and thank you in advance!
@@Jevlumba in that case you'd want 12 of the 1.7mm pads for the backplate VRAM, and 12 of the 2.2mm pads for the core side. These pads are really only meant for GDDR6X. So you'd likely want to replace the rest of the pads with something else. The stock pads are those crappy chewing gum mixed with gauze consistency. I personally like using Thermal Putty everywhere else as the different gaps/thicknesses don't become an issue. The putty takes away the chance of having poor contact on 1 of the 4 components (core, VRAM, VRM, Capacitors). It also allows you to very easily add extra putty in a few areas where there weren't any pads before to further improve lo gevity of the cars.
I have a zotac trinity 3090 ive been wanting to repad, what thickness do you recommend? When browsing the web iv seen numbers all over the place about standard pad thickness. It seems the most recommended is 2mm in core side of the board and 2mm on back on harder pads, and 2mm front and 2.5-3mm on backplate side with squishier pads. Do you have any recomendations?
One potential issue with these Graphite pads on the backplate of your 3090 is that if the backplate flexes a lot when you handle the card, then these pads can become over compressed and lose contact. I mostly recommend folks to use Thermal Putty, instead of pads, as it has proven to have more consistent good results. It also allows for better core contact as Thermal Putty compresses much better than Thermal Pads. If you do go with pads on your Zotac 3090 then it should be 2mm core side. I'm not sure about backside pad thickness.
@@snarksdomain thx for the reply! wouldnt really handle it much since i use it for gaming and not mining so I pretty much put it on the pc case and leave it there until replaced or repasting. Didnt really consider putty, which one would you recommend for the vram vrm's etc?
@brunogoncalves6677 either Upsiren UTP-8 or Fehonda LTP81. If you like you can check out the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). You'd need around 75 grams of putty for your entire card.
@brunogoncalves6677 if buying in bulk you can get it from Caplinq.com I believe they sell it in 300CC syringes (~966 grams. Enough to do 13 RTX 3090's). Alternately there is a seller in Russia for smaller quantities. There's a link to their Yotube channel in the Honeywell HT10000 stream video description (In the Live section).
It may be rated for 2 years, but like thermal putty, I doubt it will all of the sudden stop transferring heat. It would not surprise me if it lasted for the life of a GPU. For that to work, you would also need to use something like PTM7950 on the GPU core. I found this paragraph suggesting just that: "Lastly, PCM products last typically last for the lifetime of the product they are used in or applied to. Over the course of the melting and solidifying cycles, the transition temperature and latent heat energy should remain the same." kulkote-inside.com/technical/what-are-pcms#:~:text=Lastly%2C%20PCM%20products%20last%20typically,energy%20should%20remain%20the%20same.
@@snarksdomain Crap I was about to buy it, when I read the details in the description about not to use this product on 3060ti GDDR6 memory and the warning about not cutting it to make it fit. People say the 3060ti doesn't have problem with the Vram getting too hot, but my card was bought used from a miner. So the pads are due for an update. It already gets pretty hot when playing Cyberpunk. I've seen it hit 73C on the GPU and a hotspot of 89 fyi: the warning was only on one for the 2 listings from the Middle999 store Guess I'll order the Upsiren Putty instead Thanks for the info in all the videos 👍
@@kenric1460 @Snarks Domain, can you please help us test the Upsiren UTP-8 vs UX? I know you have UTP-6 vs UX somewhere, but if you could also include UTP-8, then that would be much appreciated, as that might be a great price/quality medium.
@SuperMaqgyver I wouldn't recommend the 3D Gephite pads for a laptop. Too much moving it around during travel. If you did use them, I'd suggest using some Conformal Coating on the areas surrounding the VRAM. I personally think a good Thermal Putty is a better solution for laptops, especially considering they have GDDR6 and not GDDR6X.
@@snarksdomain thank you for the suggestion. It's really nice to get replied by the one who already experienced it. I think I will goes to the one at your top chart of thermal putty. all sharing really helped me
Why not take a aluminum foil, make ball, then form it into thermal pad 2mm thick, then cut it with a knife, then test it? If you add cheap thermal paste in between the aluminum foil layers then should work same as these 3D pads for a fraction of the cost. High end version could use arctic silver 5 as internal thermal paste, outside could also be coated with the PTM7950SP
Yeah, I'm not going to do that. That is way too much work for what would be a much lower performance version than just using solid aluminum shims. Aluminum doesn't have nearly as high of a thermal conductivity as thermal graphite sheet (in the X and Y plane). Aluminum is around 237 w/mk, 3D Graphite is around 1800 w/mk. So aluminum tape would not be an effective solution. Solid Aluminum shims do work great however. In my testing, they even matched the performance of Copper shims while being much lighter.
@@snarksdomain Aluminum shims makes you use thin 0.25/0.5mm thermal pad on the chip to protect against shorts and to compensate thickness that is not easy to do as thin thermal pads are not easy to find, and they fail guaranteed in a year or so. The idea was cheaper version of aluminum shim using aluminum foil, no thermal pads means no failure just like 3D graphite thermal pads. But I read that using these 3D graphite thermal pads is also dangerous since even on aliexpress customers complain of dead GPU afterwards. Buying 4 or 5 sheets of Laird HD9000 is not cheaper then 3D graphite pads. Can you recommend good some sort 2 component glue to glue the shims to gpu cooler radiator permanently?
@akierum I haven't used glue or pads myself when I use shims. I just use Thermal Putty on either side. Works really well and no issues with gap thickness and core contact that way. In my opinion Thermal Putty is the best match for shims. Most Thermal Putties can be squished down to 0.1mm, some easier than others. Perhaps check out some of my other videos if you like. Here is a video which compared several different pad/putty/shim applications. th-cam.com/video/zSX_7P0HZqc/w-d-xo.html
@@snarksdomain Hmm, what about UPSIRN OEM Thermal Pad 21Wmk ? Have you tried it? Coolermaster discontinued their pink thermal pads 13.3Wmk I wonder why? were they that bad??
I had bad experiment with them. SORRY i dont wanna hurt nobody But...i order 1.2mm for dell 3090 rtx( i used before 1.25 kritical pads 20w/mk the tempe was max 84c)... so...i install this pads the 1.2mm and 1.7 on the back. And you have to know this pads its conduct electricity if doesnt have this thermal paste coat on on any edges you gona have same electric burn smell at the first start the computer( like me)!So i removed right back the card and i found out this carbon film its just compressed in some diameter and had this dump coat on but if a micromilimeter clean off the surface and this shit touch any chips arround the Ram you have to know you F@@ed. I have lucky with bc my card keep working but who know if you dont install in the right angle you burn your card...thats my experiment with this...i use the kritical or xpc thermal pads in future they all have 20w conductive. Have a good day!!! And good luck with this if somebody want to try in future.
Yeah, you definitely want to make sure you place each pad directly onto a GDDR6X and make sure it's perfectly centered. May want to consider Gelid GP Exteme pads instead as they are softer than Kritical pads and also outperform the Kritical pads.
@@snarksdomain i be honest i try this aluminium plate 0.6mm for dell 3090 what they send me and the temp was just 88c so i removed i order 0.8mm copper and nothing change. After i start with kritical and paste behind thr heatsinksjust(dell 3090) have this issues..😏 and all what happen the temp was drop again in normal 4k gaming was 80 82 84. And after this i order thid 3d magic and i didnt have time to see what happen 😅. Its so much videocards out all different probably in something gona be good in my version wasnt but can be in any different card. This is just my experiment was and i dont want to ckange anybody mind to buy or not judt i tell in dell 3090 with 1.2 had problem its to thin and ehen i reopen all was smuched and all was carbon black like audio tape material.in my case im happy with this temp drops on dell 3090 with just better pads then factorx and thermal paste behind the 2 heatsinks and dont forget a huge copper heatsink on the top of the card thats it.
Thanks for checking these pads out, I've got a pair coming for my RTX 3090 FTW3.
The manufacturer states the pads need about 30~ minutes of burn in before the pads reach optimal performance so that should explain why your results got better over time.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks GhostMotley, you've been a great help!
@@snarksdomain No problem, look forward to the other thermal putty testing.
@@GhostMotley They are supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'll be out working but will test once I get back home, likely sometime next week.
Will run the hotplate test a couple more times with these pads beforehand just to see if there is further improvement or not.
Did it perform well how much is the temp now also which thickness you used because i have the same card as you are.
@@GhostMotley what thickness you use for your card and how much did the temp went down
Great reporting and methodical. Appreciate the observations!
I replaced my pads with those. Pretty darn good. Thanks for experimenting and testing them!
Nice. Glad they worked well for you. Which card did you use them on?
Nice job, thanks. It would be good to show some comparisons of the results of other thermal pads as well as copper and aluminum shims, maybe you could infer the actual conductivity that way. And maybe you could add a temperature sensor on the bottom, or just use a cheap IR thermometer, to see the temperature difference in real time.
I've got other pads tests with same thickness and gaps. Still need to do copper shim and aluminum shim tests along with some other pads and putties.
Other pad/putty times are listed in the description for direct comparison.
Remembering that "graphene" is defined as a single layer crystal, so anything more than an atom thick is not graphene anymore
Well put. That makes it graphite film that is scrunched up in the pad then.
Maybe after a while, recheck whether the test without pads etc still the same as original.
I feel that if most efficient cooling of the card is the top priority, then nothing will best submersion cooling. I have hesitated mainly due to the question of degradation over time both of any plastic parts and of the oil/coolant. Like can the properties of the coolant change over time in such a way as to be a danger to...
Definitely good point. I'm also hesitant for a few reason's. Cost being a major factor, but I'm also concerned about some components that want to run cooler. With Submersion there is now thermal separation for the components so it would come down to pump rate and temperature delta and your heat exchanges ability to dump heat in the inconsistent outside temperature.
Now if you have a flow loop from a lake or sea water then you can probably count on consistently cooler temps.
Phase change is intriguing but mostly just well suited for making world records on a single component, not a 6-12 card rig.
I wish these had 0.5mm since my laptop runs on those (and I could use a bit more preessure on the cpu and gpu).
Nice work! 👊
👊
hello, how long can it last?
It says it's rated for 2 years, but I honestly think it would be fine for much longer. The weak point of a GPU's thermals is the thermal paste. I'm hoping a high end thermal putty can be used instead of paste on the core and avoid the need to ever open up a GPU again.
Is it worth using these on a msi 3070 suprim x, I will never overclock and don’t play 4K ultra max settings, just 1080p high 120fps or 1440p high ?
For cards with GDDR6 I wouldn't recommend using these pads. They are designed for GDDR6X.
GDDR6 doesn't run as hot so these would be overkill. If/when you do replace the pads I'd suggest using a Thermal putty.
You may want to check out my video comparing the different pads/putties/shims.
So I know it's probably a dumb idea, but would it work if I got this for a cpu and just put a square of like 4 of them on it, or would that just fry my cpu or something?
While it is highly compressible, it would still likely remain fairly thick. Probably even thicker than Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet when compressed (0.1mm).
I wouldn't recommend this for a CPU. I'd personally go with either a paste, phase change material, or kryosheet.
@@snarksdomain thanks lol, I was just wondering because I don't know much about thermal solutions for CPUs.
@justfeeldbyrne2791 for CPU's there are:
-Thermal pastes (most common)
-Phase Change Materials
-Liquid Metal (most risk)
-Indium foil
-carbon based sheets (Kryosheet, Carbonaut)
Remember to kapton tape those capacitors
I'm not sure which thicknmess to use on my asus dual rtx 4070..
I'll have to do some more reading, but if it is similar to the ASUS Dual 4060, then the gap/pad may be around 0.75mm for the VRAM. Likely want to use 1.2mm thick 3D graphite pads. They will compress down to 0.7 without issue, in my opinion.
You also have the option of going with a high performing Thermal Putry. Then you won't have to worry too much about knowing pads thickness ahead of time before you open up the card.
You can find a link to the latest charts on Google Drive in my channel about page.
th-cam.com/video/5Yl7XF2py30/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JTn5GFWSB7P6ekBC
@@snarksdomain saddly they dont have the same heatsink design, they have pads of different thickness
@@filippos989 These 3D Graphte pads are only designed for VRAM, so you would either need to reuse the OEM pads elsewhere, replacement them with another pad, or use a thermal putty.
If you can find the thickness of the pads for the VRAM mentioned somewhere it may be worth an attempt to buy the closest pad size. These 3D graphite pads compress extremely easily.
If you can't find info the pad thickness and don't want to risk wasting money on wrong size, then Thermal Putty may be your best option. There are thermal putties that match the performance of the 3D graphite pads, with the added benefit of being reusable if you mess things up and need to pull the card back apart.
3D graphite pads are a good option if you are confident of the thicknesses and get a good application for for the card, including the core.
this is great i think i will order for my 3090's
I just got a second link with a 24 pack. It's also an affiliate link. I added it in the description.
@@snarksdomain i am gonna buy it with your link mate , i was at work just aliexpress needs me to sign up :D the amount of money i spend on these cooling solutions :D lol but i am more happy i bought the putty 500gr :D it was expensive but worth it. growing my mining operations to 3-3.5 gh/s hopefully soon as i find very cheap cards lately. they all need servicing and thermal solutions :D but no more 3080's its just too much hastle. unless these pads or putty sort me out.
Zotac 3070ti AMP Extreme Holo 1.2mm?
2.2mm 3D Graphite pads for the VRAM (OEM pads were 2mm, actual gap height is 1.8mm).
These pads compress really well. With the Phase Change coating, they will also become very compressible as they heat up past 45 Celsius. It's the phase change coating that holds the thin graphite sheet in it's shape.
Thank you very much, so I can just order 2.2 online, right?
@user-gn2sf5tk7y Yes. These are quite compressible, but don't spring back like other pads might, so handke with care when installing.
You also kind of have 1 shot to get it right so I would recommend taking extra care during assembly. With a pad sitting on a VRAM chip, press gently on the pad to make it stick the the chip. Doesn't take much force at all and you will notice that you have compressed the area that your press down on.
The trickiest part is lining everything up perfectly when placing PCB onto cooler, so best to stand over top and maybe have some flashlight shining from the side so that you can look through the screw holes and line everything up before the PCB contacts the cooler.
Once the card is fired back up and heats up from gaming/stress test, the pads with basically glue themselves to the VRAM and cooler.
If you ever disassemble the card in the future, even a couple days later, these pads can pull apart and would need to be replaced, so no guarantees on being reusable.
May i know which size i need for gaming x trio 3090?
I've just been reading up on your card. The backplate is an odd one, where you need 2 different pad sizes for the VRAM. This is not ideal for 3D Grpahite pads in my opinion as they aren't really meant to be cut to size. If you did try cutting them, you would want to have some Phase Change Material (PTM7958SP syringe type) to seal up the edges and prevent loose graphite pieces (electrically conductive).
I'd likely go with a thermal putty instead, but that's just my thoughts on it.
www.reddit.com/r/NiceHash/s/8WnTnii391
@@snarksdomain thanks so what do u reccome d for me to use and which sizes?
@johanniah6822 I'd recommend using any of the top 10 Thermal Putties I've tested. Charts are located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repositiory, VRAM TIM)
the thermal pads for zotac 3080 in the back are supposed to be 3mm (and the front ones are 2mm), so does this means I can't use this upsiren for it ?
You'd likely be best with a different thermal solution for the backplate. That being said your card only has VRAM on the core side, and these pads on that side would perform extremely well.
If you still wanted to do the back side you have several options:
1) Use a Thermal Putty Instead like Upsiren UX Pro or U6 Pro
2) Stack 2 3D Graphite pads (not recommended by many for any thermal pad)
3) buy a different 3mm thermal pad for the backplate
Not sure if you've seen my latest video, but you could even use a thermal putty like UX Pro or U6 Pro on both sides (and then PTM7950 sheet, or paste of your choice on the Core).
Thx for the vid
Do you think copper shim + thermal paste is better than these graphite thermal pads ?
I definitely like Copper Shim + Thermal Putty. I don't recommend thermal paste to be used with copper shim due to them drying out/baking.
Baked thermal paste is also much harder to clean than old Thermal Putty. Thermal putty can also be used again. If it's hard just mix in some new stuff to soften it up, although I'd likely use fresh stuff between shims so it can press out easily.
I need to cut a 1.5" x 1.6mm thick disc for testing so we can compare them side by side.
Copper shims will work indefinitely but also take additional steps from prepping the card (Kapton tape). Not everyone has access to copper shims at an affordable price.
These pads claim they are good for 24 months of continuous use, which is longer than a lot of other pads are good for when mining, but taking the card apart will most likely pull these pads apart so they would need to be replaced. Really the only reason to pull the card apart is once the thermal paste on the core has dried up. Ideally I'd like to find a product that can work well on the core and has longevity of use.
@@snarksdomain That makes sense, I will use thermal putty instead of thermal paste then. I also noticed you put thermal putty on the backplate for the vram, why didn't you put it on the back of the die ? Because you want to prioritize cooling on vram ?
Anyway thank you for all your video it is really really instructive :)
@@racouline719 I didn't put any of the die for the backplate because I'm not expecting to gain much cooling using the backplate. That being said this card does have that option since it's enclosed.
We're I to do so I would also add some copper ram sinks to the backplate.
I've used copper ram sinks, and 2x 120mm fans blowing onto it, to good effect on a Strix 3090 in the past and was able to keep the backside memory nice and cool that way. I will have to reach out to the owner to see what his temps are like now.
Do you know if these thermal pads (in 1.7mm thickness) will work for the Nvidia 3090 FE? I read that 1.5mm would be best but i didn't see these available in 1.5mm.
Yes, the 1.7mm of these pads are designed to be used in place of typical 1.5mm pads.
Depending on when you bought your 3090 FE it will use different thickness pads for the VRAM on the core side.
If bought since Q4 2021 then you should be fine with 1.7mm pads on both sides. If bought prior to Q3 2021 then you'd want to use the 2.2mm pads on the core side, and 1.7mm on the backplate.
@@snarksdomain Great! I did get mine prior to Q3 2021, do you have a recommendation on how many pieces of each thickness I need to completely cover what I need to on the core/backplate? Sorry for the simple questions, I'm completely new to this and thank you in advance!
@@Jevlumba in that case you'd want 12 of the 1.7mm pads for the backplate VRAM, and 12 of the 2.2mm pads for the core side.
These pads are really only meant for GDDR6X. So you'd likely want to replace the rest of the pads with something else. The stock pads are those crappy chewing gum mixed with gauze consistency.
I personally like using Thermal Putty everywhere else as the different gaps/thicknesses don't become an issue. The putty takes away the chance of having poor contact on 1 of the 4 components (core, VRAM, VRM, Capacitors). It also allows you to very easily add extra putty in a few areas where there weren't any pads before to further improve lo gevity of the cars.
I have a zotac trinity 3090 ive been wanting to repad, what thickness do you recommend?
When browsing the web iv seen numbers all over the place about standard pad thickness. It seems the most recommended is 2mm in core side of the board and 2mm on back on harder pads, and 2mm front and 2.5-3mm on backplate side with squishier pads. Do you have any recomendations?
One potential issue with these Graphite pads on the backplate of your 3090 is that if the backplate flexes a lot when you handle the card, then these pads can become over compressed and lose contact.
I mostly recommend folks to use Thermal Putty, instead of pads, as it has proven to have more consistent good results. It also allows for better core contact as Thermal Putty compresses much better than Thermal Pads.
If you do go with pads on your Zotac 3090 then it should be 2mm core side. I'm not sure about backside pad thickness.
@@snarksdomain thx for the reply! wouldnt really handle it much since i use it for gaming and not mining so I pretty much put it on the pc case and leave it there until replaced or repasting.
Didnt really consider putty, which one would you recommend for the vram vrm's etc?
@brunogoncalves6677 either Upsiren UTP-8 or Fehonda LTP81.
If you like you can check out the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH).
You'd need around 75 grams of putty for your entire card.
@@snarksdomain thanks for the reply! I see the Honeywell putty is now the chart topper. Anything you wouldnt recomend for? also where do you buy it?
@brunogoncalves6677 if buying in bulk you can get it from Caplinq.com I believe they sell it in 300CC syringes (~966 grams. Enough to do 13 RTX 3090's). Alternately there is a seller in Russia for smaller quantities. There's a link to their Yotube channel in the Honeywell HT10000 stream video description (In the Live section).
Hmmm, interesting. Less messy that putty 🤔👍
Drawback is it's only good for ~2 years
It may be rated for 2 years, but like thermal putty, I doubt it will all of the sudden stop transferring heat. It would not surprise me if it lasted for the life of a GPU. For that to work, you would also need to use something like PTM7950 on the GPU core.
I found this paragraph suggesting just that:
"Lastly, PCM products last typically last for the lifetime of the product they are used in or applied to. Over the course of the melting and solidifying cycles, the transition temperature and latent heat energy should remain the same."
kulkote-inside.com/technical/what-are-pcms#:~:text=Lastly%2C%20PCM%20products%20last%20typically,energy%20should%20remain%20the%20same.
@@snarksdomain
Crap I was about to buy it, when I read the details in the description about not to use this product on 3060ti GDDR6 memory and the warning about not cutting it to make it fit. People say the 3060ti doesn't have problem with the Vram getting too hot, but my card was bought used from a miner. So the pads are due for an update. It already gets pretty hot when playing Cyberpunk. I've seen it hit 73C on the GPU and a hotspot of 89
fyi: the warning was only on one for the 2 listings from the Middle999 store
Guess I'll order the Upsiren Putty instead
Thanks for the info in all the videos 👍
@@kenric1460 Yeah and aparently Upsiren UX is better than U6 Pro, I've just noticed from one of his tests.
@@kenric1460 @Snarks Domain, can you please help us test the Upsiren UTP-8 vs UX? I know you have UTP-6 vs UX somewhere, but if you could also include UTP-8, then that would be much appreciated, as that might be a great price/quality medium.
@@kenric1460 Did you order Upsiren U6 Pro? Did it work for you?
New subscriber here. Nice channel great videos!
Thanks
is it safe if it used in laptop?
@SuperMaqgyver I wouldn't recommend the 3D Gephite pads for a laptop. Too much moving it around during travel. If you did use them, I'd suggest using some Conformal Coating on the areas surrounding the VRAM.
I personally think a good Thermal Putty is a better solution for laptops, especially considering they have GDDR6 and not GDDR6X.
@@snarksdomain thank you for the suggestion. It's really nice to get replied by the one who already experienced it. I think I will goes to the one at your top chart of thermal putty. all sharing really helped me
Why not take a aluminum foil, make ball, then form it into thermal pad 2mm thick, then cut it with a knife, then test it? If you add cheap thermal paste in between the aluminum foil layers then should work same as these 3D pads for a fraction of the cost. High end version could use arctic silver 5 as internal thermal paste, outside could also be coated with the PTM7950SP
Yeah, I'm not going to do that. That is way too much work for what would be a much lower performance version than just using solid aluminum shims.
Aluminum doesn't have nearly as high of a thermal conductivity as thermal graphite sheet (in the X and Y plane). Aluminum is around 237 w/mk, 3D Graphite is around 1800 w/mk. So aluminum tape would not be an effective solution.
Solid Aluminum shims do work great however. In my testing, they even matched the performance of Copper shims while being much lighter.
@@snarksdomain Aluminum shims makes you use thin 0.25/0.5mm thermal pad on the chip to protect against shorts and to compensate thickness that is not easy to do as thin thermal pads are not easy to find, and they fail guaranteed in a year or so.
The idea was cheaper version of aluminum shim using aluminum foil, no thermal pads means no failure just like 3D graphite thermal pads.
But I read that using these 3D graphite thermal pads is also dangerous since even on aliexpress customers complain of dead GPU afterwards.
Buying 4 or 5 sheets of Laird HD9000 is not cheaper then 3D graphite pads.
Can you recommend good some sort 2 component glue to glue the shims to gpu cooler radiator permanently?
@akierum I haven't used glue or pads myself when I use shims. I just use Thermal Putty on either side.
Works really well and no issues with gap thickness and core contact that way. In my opinion Thermal Putty is the best match for shims. Most Thermal Putties can be squished down to 0.1mm, some easier than others.
Perhaps check out some of my other videos if you like. Here is a video which compared several different pad/putty/shim applications.
th-cam.com/video/zSX_7P0HZqc/w-d-xo.html
@@snarksdomain Hmm, what about UPSIRN OEM Thermal Pad 21Wmk ? Have you tried it? Coolermaster discontinued their pink thermal pads 13.3Wmk I wonder why? were they that bad??
I had bad experiment with them. SORRY i dont wanna hurt nobody But...i order 1.2mm for dell 3090 rtx( i used before 1.25 kritical pads 20w/mk the tempe was max 84c)... so...i install this pads the 1.2mm and 1.7 on the back. And you have to know this pads its conduct electricity if doesnt have this thermal paste coat on on any edges you gona have same electric burn smell at the first start the computer( like me)!So i removed right back the card and i found out this carbon film its just compressed in some diameter and had this dump coat on but if a micromilimeter clean off the surface and this shit touch any chips arround the Ram you have to know you F@@ed. I have lucky with bc my card keep working but who know if you dont install in the right angle you burn your card...thats my experiment with this...i use the kritical or xpc thermal pads in future they all have 20w conductive. Have a good day!!! And good luck with this if somebody want to try in future.
Yeah, you definitely want to make sure you place each pad directly onto a GDDR6X and make sure it's perfectly centered.
May want to consider Gelid GP Exteme pads instead as they are softer than Kritical pads and also outperform the Kritical pads.
@@snarksdomain i be honest i try this aluminium plate 0.6mm for dell 3090 what they send me and the temp was just 88c so i removed i order 0.8mm copper and nothing change. After i start with kritical and paste behind thr heatsinksjust(dell 3090) have this issues..😏 and all what happen the temp was drop again in normal 4k gaming was 80 82 84. And after this i order thid 3d magic and i didnt have time to see what happen 😅. Its so much videocards out all different probably in something gona be good in my version wasnt but can be in any different card. This is just my experiment was and i dont want to ckange anybody mind to buy or not judt i tell in dell 3090 with 1.2 had problem its to thin and ehen i reopen all was smuched and all was carbon black like audio tape material.in my case im happy with this temp drops on dell 3090 with just better pads then factorx and thermal paste behind the 2 heatsinks and dont forget a huge copper heatsink on the top of the card thats it.