วีดีโอ

I'll find a way to get some shipped up to Canada. I've got some friends I can ask to help me out.

@NorsNorm for that laptop I'd recommend a Phase Change Material for CPU and GPU core. Something like Honeywell PTM7950. It will be much better ling term than a traditional paste. Likely better core delta as well. For a putty you're likely best off with a soft one like Halnziye HY236. It squishes down thinner than UTP-8 or CX-H1300 can. You could try the other two, but it will take more finesse to get a good application. Most folks, including myself, use too much Thermal Putry the first few times. It took me many putty applications to stop overusing putty.

@@snarksdomain I already bought the MX-6 do you know how long it would last? Otherwise I will eat the loss and get the pad. My laptop runs 24/7 I use it like a desktop plugged in to my TV

@NorsNorm well, no harm in using the MX-6 until you notice temps degrade. I just confident the Honeywell PTM7950 will be rock solid for you once it gets a good melt.

@@snarksdomain Thank you. Where would you suggest to get the PTM7950 from? and the HY236? I am in the US

@NorsNorm For PTM7950 a lot of folks, including myself, buy it on Aliexpress for fairly cheap. It may or may not be the reL deal, but it seems to perform the same or similar in testing. Mostly we buy it from "Passionate Girl Store" on Aliexpress. You could also go woth Thermalright Heilos which is also good and has an authenticity code you can scratch on each piece of it. For Halnziye HY236 eother Aliexpress or buy it directly from Halnziye website (fill out the quote request). It will be cheapest from Aliexpress.

@colt5189 Brand is "QUO Beauty", Luxury/Deluxe (less abrasive). They are manufactured for Shoppers Drugmart (Canadian Pharmacy chain). I find the pads to be less abrasive than use Q-tips, likely.due to the force being spread out much more evenly. Q-tips tend to concentrate the force to a single point (not ideal for the metals, fine for silicon for the most part).

@@snarksdomain Thanks. I ended up picking up Swisspers Premium cotton rounds. They have a smooth face and so should have less fibers left behind than the fuzzy kind.

@Luissebb It's not looking too good from what I saw yesterday. Will crunch the numbers soon but it was doing 98C Memory Junction Temperature. The final result will depend on the ambient temperature logged.

@colt5189 an old toothbrush can work too, if you have one.

@ggj1987 While this putty is very high performing, some folks are having trouble using it on laptops with very thin gaps. If you like you can join the Discord server and we can try to help troubleshoot it with you. We might still be able to get it to work for you. If not then you'll likely need to get a Thermal Putty like Halnziye HY236 which can compress down to 0.10mm much easier. I believe it has a much smaller particle size than UTP-8 does.

Which minute did I say MG860 as being Mouser? Just wanting to fix any errors in my video if possible. MG Chemicals makes MG860, so if I said Mouser, then it was by mistake. As for using K5 Pro for anything, my advice is to avoid that one. It is one of the worst performing putties on the market. Feel free to take a look at the charts located at the Google Drove link below (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH).

Mouser.ca is where I bought MG860. That column shows where I bought each product.

@Askorzzz where did you buy your U6 pro from? Did you get the good one (Upsiren, China), or the bad one (Computer Systems GR, Greece)? You may want to take a look at the charts located on the Google Drive (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). Also, considering watching my video called "U6 Pro: A Tale Of Two Putties"

Upsiren U6 Pro is not super sticky. It is easily formed by hand (wear gloves).

@jameyt1 yes. I've been reshaping the same TG-PP10 on the test card VRM's for 2 years now. It's gone through over 70 teardown and reassemblies so far.

@@snarksdomain great to know. Thanks 🙏

@@vugiabao7tc425 1.88mm thick for the hotplate tests.

@@vugiabao7tc425 Moddiy doesn't manufacture Honeywell PTM7950. They resell it, just like other sources do. Which ones turn out to be actual Honeywell and which ones aren't remains to be seen.

@fringeanomaly9284 feel free to take a look at the charts located at the Google Drive link below (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). There you will find a chart showing the relative performance for the few dozen putties I have tested. If you laptop has gaps smaller than 0.5mm, I recommend Halnziye HY236 / HY256. It can be bought directly from Halnziye or perhaps on Alibaba or Ebuy7. If your laptop has gaps larger than 0.5mm the. You could use Honeywell HT10000, Upsiren UTP-8, Fehonda LTP81, or others.

@newrez Thanks Newrez! And welcome to the Discord :)

@colt5189 I bought the 24w pads I tested from the "Uspiren Official" store on Aliexpress. In testing they performed 0.5 degrees Celsius better than the 21w pads. I'd still go for putty myself.

​@@snarksdomain Okay thanks. I eventually found the official 24w listing, as it didn't show up earlier for some reason. I did one laptop with putty, it had an external GPU and only had two vram chips. So pretty simple. On this newer HP laptop I'm doing with external GPU, it has a ton of vram and whatever. I think it has like 8 or so pads of different sizes. And so it's hard to judge how thick to make the putty, and I end up making it too thick as the vram are all different sizes, some large and some small. And I had the heatsink in place with UTP-8 having to smash all the pad points down. But one I think I squished too much and it squeezed out too much and left a hairline crack/gap, so had to take it apart to clean up and do over. And so figured I may just do pads. I'd be interested if say Upsiren made their putty into sheets like 2mm or 3mm thick where it would be a lot easier to apply evenly. I'll do more research, but I may just try the Upsiren 24w/mk or some other pad. It looked like in your data, from what I remember, that the Upsiren 21w/mk wasn't too far off from the Upsiren UPT-8. Thanks.

@colt5189 I wouldn't call the 21w or 24w pads as being soft. So the compressibility issues you ran into will be worse with pads. You won't be able to compress them like you would a putty. To get the right amount of putty you can either use the Putty Calculator located on the Google Drive link below (Test Chart Repository), or share pictures of the laptop and heatsink with it apart on the Discord server help section and folks will help you dial it in to get the ideal amount. The Fehonda 15w pads act almost like a putty so may work for you if you still wanted pads. Alternately the Halnziye HY236 will be easier to compress down to thinner gap sizes and likely still outperforms whatever stock TIM'S were used for your laptop.

​@@snarksdomain What I ended up doing as I decided to stick with Upsiren putty for the 2nd try. I got the motherboard cleaned up and heatsink. Clamped it down to note the gap distance at all pad locations. i.e. wrote down which areas had the thinnest gap. I measured the length and width of the chip runs. Rubbed putty in between the individual cubes. And then I rolled up the putty in a ball. Got two popsicle sticks that are 2mm thick. And got a block of thick flat acrylic. And put the putty in between the popsicle sticks and smashed it down so the putty was 2mm thick smear. Carefully turned the acrylic left and right to where I could remove it from the putty. Measured and used digital calipers to mark the corners of the box. And used a strip of thick paper to cut out the box of Upsiren. Then carefully lifted it up with the spreader and set it down on the chips or whatever and patted it down. I did this for all pad locations on the motherboard. Then put the Honeywell PTM from LTT on the CPU and GPU and screwed down the heatsink. As I screwed it down, I gently squeezed the areas of the heatsink to smash the heatsink pad locations closer to the motherboard. I didn't go as hard as last time. And I was gentle with the vram chips as those I squeezed too much the last time. Then used a toothpick to clean up the squeezed out putty. And then got Qtip with rubbing alcohol to clean up the residue left by the squeeze out. I do like how the Upsiren UPT-8 is soft. But I wish it didn't crumble apart. I hope he makes a newer version where the putty is soft, but doesn't crumble to pieces.

@stefonimircea5416 I likely go with Upsiren UTP-8 or Halnziye HY236 if the gaps are really thin. For the core either Honeywell PTM7950, Thermalright Heilos, Upsiren PCM-1, or one of the other similar Phase Change Materials.

@@snarksdomainThank you so much on the info, love what you do, keep going!

@CuriousGamer022 For the most part yes. It seems some gaming laptop models have quite thin gaps, which can make it easy to overuse putty, and more difficult to compress and get good core contact. I'll be attempting to roughly measure minimum bondline thickness of each putty and adding that info to the chart. Not all putties can get down to 0.1mm

@lefourbe5596 if you're certain you want to use Kryosheet I'd recommend applying conformal coating around the core. As for a double barrier, that mau work. I'd recommend considering a Phase Change Material like Honeywell PTM7950. I has a long service life and can achieve good core/Hotspot deltas. Also there is no electrical risk.

@joshuamidnight8641 Hey Joshua. It's been a while since I've tested Thermal Putties in that way, but it could be fun to try it. I assume you've seen my more recent comparison charts located on the Google Drive link below? (Test Chart Repository> VRAM TIM>ETCHASH).

@@snarksdomain Yes, i've seen your charts as well. They are great by the way. I just wanted to see another 100c video haha. I have UX Pro in my diy watercooled gaming laptop and wanted to see if UTP-8 was a worthwhile upgrade for my waterblock.

@ahmed-mujtaba That's great to hear. I feel like Liquid Metal should be considered an Enthusiast solution and not in so many devices straight from the factory. Considering all the drama around warranties and RMA's, LM just doesn't feel like the right fit. I'm glad Phase Change Materials are on the scene now, and we're seeing nearly every brand bring offerings under their brands. How they all stack up with each other still remains to be seen. It will be interesting to see if any of them can beat Honeywell PTM7950. Matching is okay too, but only when their is a cost savings.

@boijorzee I'm glad you got good results. One issue I have with Kryosheet is that it can only compress down to 0.1mm. If you ever decide to change it out in the future, I'd recommend considering a Phase Change Material such as Honeywell PTM7950.

@sbla2381 I would recommend doing a test fit with just the putty applied first, no PTM. Install the heatsink, do the screws and then remove it and see how the squish is. Once you have the putty dialed I'm, only then do you apply PTM7950. You might want to join the Discord so you can post pics during the process and folks will help you tweak the putty.

@@snarksdomain Thanks🙏🏼 I joined, I'll post some pics. I made the mistake of already applying ptm(just need to remove the upper plastic sheet once I have the putty), was being hasty lol. But I have enough for 1 new application

@@sbla2381 I'll try my best to help you dial in the putty :)

@pete0274 lately I've been using higher performing outties without adding shims into the mix. Although a 3090 can still benefit from shims on the backplate, m9st other cards don't have the same VRAM thermak issues. You may want to check out my "Thermal Putty Guide" video and also take a peak at the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). Some really great putties available these days.

@@snarksdomain I had quiet a hefty amount of cards having thermal problems and in gaming not hashing( which is more aggressive in rising the temps) in my experience. So I've done copper mods and fans or only copper or only fans on the backplate. Copper backplate crafted instead of plastic coated aluminum or painted or whatever manufacturer thrown at people. Other factors was dust, dust and humidity, bad cases , silent fans only mods and others. That's why went to from the simple and cheaper mods to to more complicated with sandwich of heatsinks and so on. For example RTX A 4000 - 5000 are great cards but, requires cooling mods. Mostly blower cards does. "Although a 3090 can still benefit from shims on the backplate" of course so does 3070 and 3080s but, I was referring to 92 mm fans. Although for a 3090 that is hashed I would go with a new copper backplate and a square low profile heatsink over VRAM and GPU area. I' ll do that for any card that also have VRAM on both sides of the PCB. Al will do for the low profile heatsink. I checked your other video on story of Upsiren, that is good enough for the start and I'll go from there to higher quality if need it.

@pete0274 I honestly wouldn't go with either of the putties from that video. There are much better outties and often similar price or cheaper. In your scenario, I'd recommend one of 3 Thermal Putties. 1) Upsiren UTP-8, which is only slightly behind Honeywell HT10000 in performance, but can often be bought for a d3al of 3x100g for ~$31 CAD each. That would do 6 typical cards (50g each) or 4x 3090's. 2) CX-H1300 13.5w is one of the best budget puttiws and only a few degrees behind the Upsiren UTP-8 in performance, but at a much cheaper price. Can usually get 70g for arpund $15 CAD. It has been stiffer lately, ut I feel like you could master it since you've done a lot of copper shim jobs and would quickly become good at manipulating it. Still softer than. Pads, so you'd do fine with it and great price per gram. 3) If you wanted to use putty with shims (longer lasting than paste with shims), then I'd recommend getting some Halnziye HY236 or HY256 as it is very sof5 and an ideal putty to use with shims. For shim size you'd want to go 0.2 or 0.3mm smaller than the gap si,e between VRAM and Cooler, that way you'd easily compress the putty down to a thin layer on both sides and still get great core contact. For the cores I'd recommend buying a bulk 400x160mm sheetof Honeywell PTM7950. It lasts longer than paste and often gets better performance than pastes.

@@Garu_Df no risk. This stuff is a strong electrical insultator, so it doesn't conduct electricity. It can be used anywhere a traditional thermal pad can.

It was probably from a live stream and he’s removing stuff Chill out dude it’s not that serious

@tOrry360 You should be able to do your whole card with 50g or less. UTP-8 is very good and relatively cheap when compared to most other top rated putties. CX-H1300 is decent as well, and even cheaper. Lately it has been noticeably stiffer. Which makes it a little harder to apply. It also performs about 2 degrees worse than the original batch I tested foe the charts. But still very good, about the performance of Laird T-Putty 607. I'd recommend using a Phase Change Material for the core like Honeywell PTM7950 or similar.

@valour549 A couple reasons come to mind. For starters you would need to stack 8-10 layers in places to span the gap, that would make it quite expensive to do so. If it did work, and melted, then fluid dynamics and gravity would take over. It would likely shift around enough to lose contact with some of the components, especially in larger gaps. If that didn't happen and it all stayed in one placed it would essentially be like gluing the card to the cooler. It would take a lot more force to pry apart. But the number one reason why it's not a great idea is that it would likely not perform as well as a putty. PTM7950 needs the ability to be in liquid form so that it can become very very thin. A top end thermal putty does not have this requirement of becoming super thin. As such it will often be loaded with more thermal boosting powders than the Phase Change could incorporate into it's mixture, and still be able to achieve liquid form. You are certainly welcome to try, but I would personally strongly recommend against it.

@snarksdomain I see. So what's the difference between what u have in this video (looks like play dough), compared to something like Cooler Master thermal pads? Is it the fact that with what u have one doesn't need to worry about the thickness? I always don't know what pads to buy because they come in so many thickness... and when I take my laptops heatsink off the original pads there are already torn so it's not like I can measure them lol

@valour549 most good putties are like this one and can be molded by hand (with gloves). It takes the guesswork out of pad thickness and eliminate the need to buy multiple thicknesses as well. You can either figure out the correct amount of putty with "Trial and Error", or if you happen to know the pad thicknesses or there is a good pad thickness guide online, you can punch those numbers into the Thermal Putty Calculator on the Google Drive link below (Test Chart Repository). Laptops use around 20g, most videocards use 50g or less, a 3090 uses around 75 grams. The 2 main benefits of thermal putty, over traditional thermal pads, is that it forms better around tiny components, and that it compresses much easier than pads do. This in turn let's the Core have more of the mounting pressure, which helps to get a super thin layer of Phase Change, or paste if that is your preference. As long as putty is soft enough to form by hand then you can also reuse it. I have been reshaping the same TG-PP10 inside my test card for close to 75 applications now (about 2 years of use). Also, the TG-PP10 I took out of my 3090 was still soft after 2.5 years of heavy use. Putty is likely what you will see in most cards and laptops 5 years from now, but we already see it in Lenovo Legion laptops, ASUS AMD videcards, some Acer laptops, Playstation 5's, to name a few. It is also often cheaper than pads, depending which putty you go with. Feel free to check out the charts located on the Google Drive. I've tested a few dozen Thermal Putties and also a decent selection of pads so far.

@dystopia1686 I'm glad I could help. Have you considered switching to a Thermal Putty instead of pads? Putty is definitely my preference as it allows better compression than pads and avoids the need to buy different thicknesses. Putty is also the ideal paring woth Phase Change Material (Like Honeywell PTM7950), as it allows more of the mounting pressure to act on the GPU Die rather than sharing the force with the pads. This gives the potential for a much thinner layer of Phase Change once it melts and flows out the excess.

​@@snarksdomainI bought my card 2 years ago from first owner. The first owner applied a copper thermal pad and thermal paste. What a mess. I had to wash the card with isopropyl alcohol and clean it for hours. Since I renew the thermal pads and pastes of my graphics card once a year, I want to continue with easy to clean thermal pads. The last Thermalright Oddyseys I used were not bad, but now the market is full of fakes of this product.

@kiren333 20g should work for most laptops. Your 5ml is the equivalent of 17.5grams of putty so perhaps you have enough. I haven't tested HT7000 so not sure where it lands on the charts. HY236 is quite good actually and nice and soft. It's probably the easiest to work with for laptops. CX-H1300 has been stiffer lately. Still performs okay, but harder to get fully compressed.

@@kiren333 Fehonda LTP81 is good too, if a bit more expensive per gram.

@@snarksdomain wow! Really fast answer) Thanks!

@andrewcitopants Lately it hasn't been as good for Laptop applications as it's been stiffer than the original batch I had tested. It can still be done, but you will need to be careful not to use too much, and you'll also need to apply more pressure to compress it. Performance wise it's good. Only 2 degrees worse than the original batch, but that's still a very high performing putty.

I'll see if I can borrow my friends card which has had UX Pro in it for 14 months so far. If so I'll test it again with same parameters as before and see what the temperatures look like.

@ayham6048 here are the ones I used. a.aliexpress.com/_mM2FqA4

@@snarksdomain The item is not available. Can you please provide me with the dimensions only?

@@ayham6048 89mm GA92S2U a.aliexpress.com/_mNkp5PE

@@snarksdomain Thank you very much

@SianaGearz it's an unfortunate scenario, but at least there are several other good options. in your case I'd recommend something like Halnziye HY236 or HY256. Really nice putties to work with and also reasonably priced. If you only need it foe the VRAM, then 20g should be enough. If you want to do the whole card with putty then 50g (PTM on core still). Or you could buy some Honeyqell HT10000 from Eugeney_KH (TH-camr). That's who I bought my HT10000 from. And shipping from Ukraine to Canada was reasonable.

@vugiabao7tc425 most laptops can be done with 20g or less. UX Pro is not the putty I'd recommend for a laptop as it is stiffer than others. Laptops have less ability to compress putty so it's better to use softer putties. Better options include: Honeywell HT10000 Laird T-Putty 910 Upsiren UTP-8 Fehonda LTP81 Fehonda LTP65 Laird T-Putty 607 Halnziye HY236 or HY25 For performance comparisons feel free to reference the charts located at the Google Drive link below (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH)

@@snarksdomain is halnziye hy236 good for acer nitro 5 an515-57 3060 i5 11400h i just ordered it

I wouldn't pick UX Pro for a laptop anymore. I'd pick a softer putty. As for longevity of the different thermal putties, it will be a while before we know for most of them. TG-PP10 definitely set the bar high. I recently opened up my 3090 which had copper shims and TG-PP10 for 2.5 years. The putty was still soft. Here's hoping some of the other thermal putties can match that.

@@snarksdomain Do you recommend Upsiren Utp-8 for laptops and how is the longevity of it?

@mehmetoz1932 it's one of the putties I'd pick for a laptop based on it's softness. It's far too new of a product to know it's longevity, but it was designed to have better longevity than Upsiren U6 Pro, according to Upsiren, and there are folks who have had U6 Pro in their laptops for a little over a year now. Honeywell HT10000 seems to have a good track record of 2 years so far, according to folks buying it from Eugeney_KH (TH-camr). That's where I got mine from. I also consider Laird T-Putty 607 to have a good track record thus far, as it's seen a bunch if use in Europe/Germany. Halnziye is another well established manufacturer of putty and really competitive pricing as well. You can actually contact Haknziye directly using their website and purchase from them. Their HY236 and HY256 and an excellent putty for laptops as it is very soft. It'a performance is more than adequate for laptops. It wouldn't hesitate to use it. Penchem's TH930 has the closest resemblance to T-Globals TG-PP10. Pemchem is also a well established Thermal Putty manufacturer and has their products listed on Dogikey even (depending on which country you're shopping from). Fehonda has been making Thermal Interface Materials for quite a long time as well. It will be interesting to see how their LTP81 and LTP65 hold up over the coming years. I don't know what the best choice of a putty is for you. A lot depends on where you live, which can limit your options (depending on country). It also depends on your budget and your willingness to try something new. If you want top performing, worh a decent track record, from a large manufacturer and good softness then I think Honeywell HT10000 is the way to go. We're already trusting the longevity of PTM7950 from Honeywell, certainly they know how to make a good Thermal Putty.

@@snarksdomain Thanks for the informations. My device is stock and under warranty at the moment. How much temp differ for a 100C CPU in torture test?

@mehmetoz1932 I don't really have a way of answering that question. I have 3 laptops. A Clevo P170EM, an Aorus 15P YD, and a dell laptop for work. Your best bet is to search forums or discord channels for your specific laptop model and see what others are getting wirh Honeywell PTM7950 on the CPU/GPU core and putty everywhere else. The putty doesn't cool the CPU, but it does allow for more CPU/GPU core contact/pressure to give the potential of a very thin layer of Phase Change.