I have done it and it has worked. I had trouble with the idle. It has been as before and I traveled without problem. My mechanic did it according to the video and paid just € 60 for labor. Thank You. You Save my Nissan K11 1996
I've been chasing a misfiring and overfueling demon in my micra for over two years now! I've swapped every ignition component every fueling component cleaned the maf l, you name it I've done it. Except this, I just did it and after a twenty minute test run it seems to be fixed! Thank you so much you have hopefully just ended a years long headache of mine
Lex Michdekammera - so many thanks for the video. Just completed our repair & taken our K11 out for a drive & the acceleration, response and pick up/general running is so much better. Just to say to anyone else. We did ours whilst the Throttle body in situ. We found that if you losen the air filter housing (no needs to take the all the air pipes off, nor the bottom plug on the housing), & just prop up the air fliter housing above the throttle housing with a screwdriver it gives you much more room to get access and solder & clean the circuit board. A garage in the UK probably would not want to effect an repair like this & want to replace the entire throttle body housing, so this video really has saved us a lot of money!
Keep driving that K11, it will save you a lot of money. Almost never has issues. Just make sure you change oil- and filter in time and you'll be driving it for the next 10 years.
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA I have unstable idle and when I stop immediately, many times my k11 turns down!! Do I have to use for the soldering only the wax and the pen or do I have to use and soldering wire? Also, can I clean it after with alcohol 95 %? Thank you in advance!!
Should be solved with flux and heating it up only, just like in the video, no need to use more solder. Cleaning with 95% alcohol should do fine. Make sure you use the right flux and clean the flux off good after you're done! I've read about people using the wrong flux or not cleaning it off properly that had to buy a new throttle body because the flux caused corrosion. Also when you're done make sure it's waterproof again. Take your time fixing it, so you won't have to do this twice. Good luck!
My K11 was stalling only on acceleration, this method fixed the problem. I used a flux pen and contact cleaner instead but as long as it works. It's amazing how a simple reheat turned dull solder joints to shiny.
Our Nissan micra K11 won't start and chokes and the engine light is flashing. We have ordered a universal OBD2 reader which unfortunately is not compatible. We will try your recommendation anyway and will keep you posted. Thank you very much for this very clear video which gives us hope
The older K11 uses a Consult cable, not OBD2. I hope my video can help you with fixing it, these cars should have a lot more life in them when this problem is fixed.
my Micra K11 1,3L 1996 spits out black smoke and almost chokes on 100 rpm when all cables on throttlebody are pluged in. I figured out, that unplugging the plug with 3 contacts on bottom at 0:07 fixes the problem, but then it works without mass air flow sensor, right? Can soldering help my old Micra?
Could fix it, why not try it, what do you have to lose? If you're not confident with a soldering iron you could try to find a replacement throttle body and swap it to see if it changes the behavior. If you want to be really thorough and you have the tools, the best way is to use a desoldering iron to get all the old solder out and replace it with new (leaded) solder. Not replacing the (unleaded) solder will make the problem come back in a few years.
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA It worked! I cleaned the throttle body and soldered all points like in the video. My Micra runs perfectly now. I think even it never has run that good before. Thanks man!
I'm getting a rough idle and little bit of judder on a 1.3 i just picked up. It's not too bad at the moment but i'll give this a go before it gets any worse. great vid.
thanks for the video.... We did everything you said, bud now it won't start at all.. do we need to do something else to solve the problem.. maybe electronic adjustments ?
If done right it should work. If it doesn't start, maybe you forgot to connect a wire on the outside of the throttle body? Have you marked the position of the throttle positioning sensor? The black thing I unscrew in the beginning of the video is a potentiometer screwed on in a certain position causing it to have a certain resistance when the throttle is untouched. This way the ECU (the computer) will 'know' how far the gas pedal is pressed. So it is important you put it back exactly the way you have taken it off if you take it off. Make sure everything is connected, check the charge of the battery if the starter motor sounds dim... I can't help you too well with this little information, I'm sorry.
So i took out the complete gaschamber thing ( excuse my english) and got another one at a scrapyard. Put it in my car, and still nothing... decided to take it to garage but didn't got out of my head so i put the one we fixed back in but now with the throttle positioning sensor from the other one i had. Still nothing. Two days later i was planning to tow it to garage and with the kabel already in between i thought.. okay one more try... and guess what ... it started up and the problem seemed to be gone... so i took it for a testdrive and so far so good.. lets wait and see
Ok thanks Lex (having issues replying to your comment) . I wonder if I didn't seal it airtight. I did seal it, but might been air leak. Though aside it could also be the MAF sensor playing up as well, which is sealed on my 1994. model!
How do I test the MAF Sensor? Sorry for this out of place reply again. You tube not letting me reply to your replies? I think I also used the wrong Flux. I used lead free solder flux, but purchased it from a Hardware store. It could be plumbing flux?
Google Nissan Consult cable and Nissan Datascan and you'll find that your Micra can be connected to a laptop to check the sensors. Using the wrong flux could be the problem, the solder on your board is not lead free solder as far as I know... TH-cam is the worst to have a community at, it never works right and it's absolutely not user friendly. We'll just have to live with that...
OK thanks. I am going to get some solder with rosin core. I'll do the board again. As it was running ok when warm just a pig when cold. Now I have done it again it's just not running correct at all. I'll make sure I'll get the right solder and flux and start again. Thanks for help.
Just checked the specs of flux we used (twice)and it's acid based solder, oh bugger. We will try and clean it off and resolder the board with the proper stuff and hopefully that will buy us some life time!
My problem now is that it feels quite lazy bellow 4 ~ 5K RPM and then it's yeah pretty okay but when I come to 6500rpm I'm getting an extra boost in power which is a bit strange. Mods are ga15tb and a Janspeed manifold. Nissan consult showed me that my 02 sensor isn't working very well and the fault code was from the mass airflow. If I solder this should it be better? I want my old quick k11 back to good order:(
In my case the mass air flow dtc was caused by the bad solder joints. I think a reflow will solve your problem, but I haven't seen the car. If you are careful, thoroughly clean up the flux when you are done and seal it up good so no moisture gets in, then it is at least good maintenance.
Hi We spoke before in past. My K11 playing up again after a successfull soldering in Sept16. Having trouble when cold mainly. Opened up the board again. It looks like there is not much solder on my joints now and they look very corrided. Is there way of putting more solder on to the joints. Does flux do that? Thanks
Flux only helps the solder flow. If you want to add solder, buy solder with a rosin core and just add that with the help of a little flux. How did you close the casing of the board? You should close it water (air) tight otherwise moisture is going to ruin your board and solder joints.
Hi I did this to my micra and it didn't help at all, while I was on the test drive the car almost died and after that it wont rev properly. When you floot it it just bogs down and dies sometimes also backfires into the intake. At part throttle the car will rev to 3k rpm. Do you know what might be the issue here?
Hi there,i seem to have some idle problems on a k11 1.0 mikra ....is it applicable there too ar its only on 1.3 models only?Should i give it a try?I have cleaned the body many times but still when idle revs are a bit eratic (i have rever experienced a shut down thought) and even with the hazard lights on revs are highly affected(dropped)
This throttle body is from a 1.0 K11, so yes it is applicable. Go ahead and try it, I am almost sure it will solve your problem. But make sure to put the throttle positioning sensor (the first black thing I'm unscrewing) back the way you have taken it off.
My BF is doing mine tomorrow. We got the throttle plate off. What is the process at 3:00 onwards. Are you putting the soldering gun at a higher temperature?
Didn't do anything different, kept the temperature on 350 the entire video. Just heat up all solder joints and the flux will fix it for you. Make sure to clean the flux before sealing the thing, you don't want it to cause corrosion later on when it's closed. And don't forget to buy him a nice trophy-mug when he has fixed it!
Ok, thanks for the reply. When you mean clean the flux, you mean with the isoproponol spray. We have bought some. How long should you wait before the flux is dry and ready before applying the isoproponel cleaning stuff?
The flux doesn't need to dry. It is there to help the solder flow better when it turns fluid. So as soon as the solder has hardened again, you can clean it off with isopropanol (alcohol).
my k11 wont start, it only starts with startup gas, and dies when i stop spraying.. first i had ignition problem so i change the distributor now that works but it wont start and the sparkplugs are not wet as the should be if the engine dosnt start fuelpump works. enginesymbol flashing.. what can the problem be´?
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA very neat and explanatory video. Plus, I always enjoy when see a person masking before applying sealant. It's nice to do a clean job! Thanks mate!
Does it shut down when you dont do anything? Mine does its a 1997 micra, it would also shut down while taking turns. For example if im going to take a turn. I slow down get into second gear and and it just and shuts off with the dashboard lighting up.. And sometimes it doesnt instantly start for like 20-30 seconds. Very anoying and dangerous. I hope this problem is fixable its my first car just spended all my working money on it ffs...
Sounds like you have the same problem, the soldering should fix it. Follow the steps in the video and you probably will be driving the Micra for at least 10 years more.
You can't see it in the video. It's not important, because you should not touch it. The problem is not in the sensor, it's in the solder joints on the circuit board.
@@ClovisRibeiro1987 You can unplug it. At 2:06 the connector is on the bottom of the screen. ( But as far as I remember my car didnt start with that disconnected. )
Nice tutorial man! I will try it on my Micra. I am wondering what you mean by "Make sure to recalibrate the throttle positioning sensor (should be 0.45v) and reset the self learn in the computer". Can you explain in a few words how to do that?
The black thing I unscrew in the beginning of the video is a potentiometer screwed on in a certain position causing it to have a certain resistance when the throttle is untouched. This way the ECU (the computer) will 'know' how far the gas pedal is pressed. So it is important you put it back exactly the way you have taken it off if you take it off. You can also leave it on if you don't mind it being in your way. You can tune it with a computer (a laptop is a bit easier to carry around, so I'd advise a laptop) and a "Consult Cable". For software you could use Nissan Datascan. If you Google a bit you'll be able to find out what I mean. It's not necessary to use this cable and software, but if you own a Micra it's a great addition to your toolbox. Be sure to buy the correct cable for your Micra! 1992-1999 Uses a 14 pins connector and Nissan Datascan I, 2000 and up uses the OBD2 connector and Nissan Datascan II.
You don't have to clean the actual mass air flow sensor (the little curl you see inside the black plastic stick when you look through the mesh on the top where the air filter is connected). If you do, you'll probably break it, because it's very fragile. So don't go poking it with something! The sensor is probably fine, the problem is only in (one of) the solder joints. If you insist on cleaning something, you might want to clean the stepper motor. But be careful you don't break the paper gasket that's between the stepper motor and the throttle body, you can only get a replacement at a dealer and they never have stuff you need in stock so that will render your car useless for a week. You might be able to cut yourself a new one with a roll of "gasket paper", but that's also not something people have lying around the house very often. About the flux, that's a personal preference. I love the flux paste I'm using in the video (it's also the best stuff to make the procedure visible in a video), but make sure you clean that stuff off of your PCB. It can cause corrosion if not properly cleaned. If you want minimum risk, you might want to try the no-clean flux that's being sold (I think that's what they're selling in a pen), but there's debate about whether it really doesn't leave a corrosive residue. The best bet is to always clean it; it might take a little more time, but starting over some time later is probably more time consuming. Also important to know if you're not using a laptop with a consult cable after refitting the part: when taking off the throttle positioning sensor (the black thing I'm unscrewing right at the start), make sure you note how it's set and you set it back the way it came off. It's best you use a laptop, some software (I'm using NissanDatascan) and a cable (Nissan Consult cable should get you further on ebay) for a complete tune up, because that will get you the smoothest running engine.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I think I'll give the cable and software a go if I can get hold of them. To start I'm getting an obd2 tool so I can see what error I'm getting before removing the MAF assembly as it's a little cumbersome to get to. I will be sure to use ipa for a good clean afterwards. What concentration do you use?
Forget OBD2, that doesn't cut it. At least not with the 1995 model (it has a completely different connector), I guess post 2001 models have OBD2 in there, but that won't be enough to clear the learning computer and adjust 'stuff'. OBD2 is fun in combination with apps like Torque and to get a little educated about DTC's and sensors, but to modify stuff you will need the more specialist cables like the Consult cable with Datascan software. Every brand has it's own protocol and all that jazz, it's a bitch I know. Try watching some Delphi Autocom video's, you'll see the difference in "stuff you can do" compared to OBD2. About the concentration, I don't know. The more alcohol is in it, the less residue it's going to leave.
Mine stalls immediately after starting if it will start at all and the self diagnosis flash code was 143 which apparently is the throttle body too, my car is parked quite far from home what size allen key bolts hold it to the car
MATE, AMAZING!!! IT WORKED 100%!!!! I got back idle, good acceleration, everything! No more smoke or stalling!!!! GREAT IDEA, GUYS, IF YOU DIDNT KNOW WHATS WRONG WITH YOUR MICRA, TAKE THIS ADVISE. Thanks much mate, I appreciate your effort. Cheers, Andrew
All depends if you did it right... Did you heat every joint right? Did you use the right flux? Did you clean it thoroughly after you were done? Did you close it up watertight after?
I have done it and it has worked. I had trouble with the idle. It has been as before and I traveled without problem. My mechanic did it according to the video and paid just € 60 for labor. Thank You. You Save my Nissan K11 1996
I've been chasing a misfiring and overfueling demon in my micra for over two years now! I've swapped every ignition component every fueling component cleaned the maf l, you name it I've done it. Except this, I just did it and after a twenty minute test run it seems to be fixed! Thank you so much you have hopefully just ended a years long headache of mine
Thank you for saving your Micra!
Lex Michdekammera - so many thanks for the video. Just completed our repair & taken our K11 out for a drive & the acceleration, response and pick up/general running is so much better.
Just to say to anyone else. We did ours whilst the Throttle body in situ. We found that if you losen the air filter housing (no needs to take the all the air pipes off, nor the bottom plug on the housing), & just prop up the air fliter housing above the throttle housing with a screwdriver it gives you much more room to get access and solder & clean the circuit board.
A garage in the UK probably would not want to effect an repair like this & want to replace the entire throttle body housing, so this video really has saved us a lot of money!
Keep driving that K11, it will save you a lot of money. Almost never has issues. Just make sure you change oil- and filter in time and you'll be driving it for the next 10 years.
It's a 1.3 CVT & really nippy. The next job is to change the oil it.
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA I have unstable idle and when I stop immediately, many times my k11 turns down!! Do I have to use for the soldering only the wax and the pen or do I have to use and soldering wire? Also, can I clean it after with alcohol 95 %? Thank you in advance!!
Should be solved with flux and heating it up only, just like in the video, no need to use more solder. Cleaning with 95% alcohol should do fine. Make sure you use the right flux and clean the flux off good after you're done! I've read about people using the wrong flux or not cleaning it off properly that had to buy a new throttle body because the flux caused corrosion. Also when you're done make sure it's waterproof again. Take your time fixing it, so you won't have to do this twice. Good luck!
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA i made it! next day i will put it back to check it! i hope it will work properly!! Thank you!!
My K11 was stalling only on acceleration, this method fixed the problem. I used a flux pen and contact cleaner instead but as long as it works. It's amazing how a simple reheat turned dull solder joints to shiny.
Another Nissan saved, thanks! Make sure to reward yourself with a trophy!
Mine does the exact same thing ! Think this is it!?
Yes het helpt ! Ik heb hetzelfde gedaan, was ook heel moeilijk! Klasse
Our Nissan micra K11 won't start and chokes and the engine light is flashing. We have ordered a universal OBD2 reader which unfortunately is not compatible. We will try your recommendation anyway and will keep you posted. Thank you very much for this very clear video which gives us hope
The older K11 uses a Consult cable, not OBD2. I hope my video can help you with fixing it, these cars should have a lot more life in them when this problem is fixed.
I loved how dramatic this was.
my Micra K11 1,3L 1996 spits out black smoke and almost chokes on 100 rpm when all cables on throttlebody are pluged in. I figured out, that unplugging the plug with 3 contacts on bottom at 0:07 fixes the problem, but then it works without mass air flow sensor, right? Can soldering help my old Micra?
Could fix it, why not try it, what do you have to lose? If you're not confident with a soldering iron you could try to find a replacement throttle body and swap it to see if it changes the behavior.
If you want to be really thorough and you have the tools, the best way is to use a desoldering iron to get all the old solder out and replace it with new (leaded) solder. Not replacing the (unleaded) solder will make the problem come back in a few years.
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA thank you for the tip
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA It worked! I cleaned the throttle body and soldered all points like in the video. My Micra runs perfectly now. I think even it never has run that good before. Thanks man!
Glad the video saved another one!
Отличное видео, возможно решит некоторые проблемы, но иногда дело не в заслонке
I'm getting a rough idle and little bit of judder on a 1.3 i just picked up. It's not too bad at the moment but i'll give this a go before it gets any worse. great vid.
Cleaning the stepper motor might also work. Hope you'll get it sorted!
Great video. Bought some rosin flux, alcohol and sealant and followed ur lead. 95 K11 now back on the road. Thanks!
Again a Micra was saved, awesome! Glad you liked my video, don't forget to get yourself a trophy to celebrate your victory!
Thanks Mate! Helped me getting my Micra running good again! Cheer's from Switzerland ;)
You're welcome! Glad it saved another Micra!
Thanks for that great job.i had a same issue but just watching this video helped me a lot.
Please, what kind o material did you use to seal the lid , after the resoldering ?
Just some regular caulk. Make sure you clean everything thoroughly before sealing it.
thanks for the video.... We did everything you said, bud now it won't start at all.. do we need to do something else to solve the problem.. maybe electronic adjustments ?
If done right it should work. If it doesn't start, maybe you forgot to connect a wire on the outside of the throttle body? Have you marked the position of the throttle positioning sensor? The black thing I unscrew in the beginning of the video is a potentiometer screwed on in a certain position causing it to have a certain resistance when the throttle is untouched. This way the ECU (the computer) will 'know' how far the gas pedal is pressed. So it is important you put it back exactly the way you have taken it off if you take it off. Make sure everything is connected, check the charge of the battery if the starter motor sounds dim... I can't help you too well with this little information, I'm sorry.
Thanks anyway for answering back.. i think i should go to a garage now.. update wil follow :)
Please do update with as many details as possible, it might help others with the same problem! Thanks!
So i took out the complete gaschamber thing ( excuse my english) and got another one at a scrapyard. Put it in my car, and still nothing... decided to take it to garage but didn't got out of my head so i put the one we fixed back in but now with the throttle positioning sensor from the other one i had. Still nothing. Two days later i was planning to tow it to garage and with the kabel already in between i thought.. okay one more try... and guess what ... it started up and the problem seemed to be gone... so i took it for a testdrive and so far so good.. lets wait and see
All That Jazz Don Kaart is it still running ok...I know how intermittent this issue can be 😂
Did this today. Fixed my flat spot in high rpm and idle. Thankyou 😘
Thank you for saving another Micra!
Bom dia o meu carro está a gastar muito combustível até quando dou partida sai fumo branco. O que pode ser?
Sir when i take out the small lug on thortal body starts fine bt what can be the problem
Is that where the maf is hidden ? I just bought one 2016 for a friend
2016 Micra is a different car. Look up K11 Micra to see what car this video applies to.
Ok thanks Lex (having issues replying to your comment) . I wonder if I didn't seal it airtight. I did seal it, but
might been air leak. Though aside it could also be the MAF sensor
playing up as well, which is sealed on my 1994. model!
Did you try a Nissan Consult cable with some software to see if the MAF sensor is giving the right values?
How do I test the MAF Sensor? Sorry for this out of place reply again.
You tube not letting me reply to your replies? I think I also used the
wrong Flux. I used lead free solder flux, but
purchased it from a Hardware store. It could be plumbing flux?
Google Nissan Consult cable and Nissan Datascan and you'll find that your Micra can be connected to a laptop to check the sensors.
Using the wrong flux could be the problem, the solder on your board is not lead free solder as far as I know...
TH-cam is the worst to have a community at, it never works right and it's absolutely not user friendly. We'll just have to live with that...
OK thanks. I am going to get some solder with rosin core. I'll do the board again. As it was running ok when warm just a pig when cold. Now I have done it again it's just not running correct at all. I'll make sure I'll get the right solder and flux and start again. Thanks for help.
Just checked the specs of flux we used (twice)and it's acid based solder, oh
bugger. We will try and clean it off and resolder the board with the
proper stuff and hopefully that will buy us some life time!
Nice vedio :-) . will this method applicable for nissan march k11(1998 model) . My car got a bad accelaration and bad smoke with law fuel consumtion.
I'm not sure, but you can always try to connect it to a computer first and check for error codes.
Thanks. btw i scanned & they said air sensor is not working and i have to replaced the throttle body.what should i do? please help me.
Just try the fix in the video, 99% chance your problem is fixed.
My problem now is that it feels quite lazy bellow 4 ~ 5K RPM and then it's yeah pretty okay but when I come to 6500rpm I'm getting an extra boost in power which is a bit strange. Mods are ga15tb and a Janspeed manifold. Nissan consult showed me that my 02 sensor isn't working very well and the fault code was from the mass airflow. If I solder this should it be better? I want my old quick k11 back to good order:(
In my case the mass air flow dtc was caused by the bad solder joints. I think a reflow will solve your problem, but I haven't seen the car. If you are careful, thoroughly clean up the flux when you are done and seal it up good so no moisture gets in, then it is at least good maintenance.
Hi We spoke before in past. My K11 playing up again after a successfull soldering in Sept16. Having trouble when cold mainly. Opened up the board again. It looks like there is not much solder on my joints now and they look very corrided. Is there way of putting more solder on to the joints. Does flux do that? Thanks
Flux only helps the solder flow. If you want to add solder, buy solder with a rosin core and just add that with the help of a little flux. How did you close the casing of the board? You should close it water (air) tight otherwise moisture is going to ruin your board and solder joints.
Hi I did this to my micra and it didn't help at all, while I was on the test drive the car almost died and after that it wont rev properly. When you floot it it just bogs down and dies sometimes also backfires into the intake. At part throttle the car will rev to 3k rpm. Do you know what might be the issue here?
Might be something else that's broken. Try the Micra forums.
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA Oh yeah forgot to update. I got a new (used) throttle body for 30€ and that fixed that
I think I may need to do this on my 2000 j-spec Cube. What is the sensor on the front side of the throttle body with 4 wires?
I'm not sure what you mean, I don't see 4 wires?
My wives 03 reg micra won't go above 30 do you think this might be the problem.
Hi there,i seem to have some idle problems on a k11 1.0 mikra ....is it applicable there too ar its only on 1.3 models only?Should i give it a try?I have cleaned the body many times but still when idle revs are a bit eratic (i have rever experienced a shut down thought) and even with the hazard lights on revs are highly affected(dropped)
This throttle body is from a 1.0 K11, so yes it is applicable. Go ahead and try it, I am almost sure it will solve your problem. But make sure to put the throttle positioning sensor (the first black thing I'm unscrewing) back the way you have taken it off.
το δοκίμασες τελικά??
My BF is doing mine tomorrow. We got the throttle plate off. What is the process at 3:00 onwards. Are you putting the soldering gun at a higher temperature?
Didn't do anything different, kept the temperature on 350 the entire video. Just heat up all solder joints and the flux will fix it for you. Make sure to clean the flux before sealing the thing, you don't want it to cause corrosion later on when it's closed. And don't forget to buy him a nice trophy-mug when he has fixed it!
Ok, thanks for the reply. When you mean clean the flux, you mean with the isoproponol spray. We have bought some. How long should you wait before the flux is dry and ready before applying the isoproponel cleaning stuff?
The flux doesn't need to dry. It is there to help the solder flow better when it turns fluid. So as soon as the solder has hardened again, you can clean it off with isopropanol (alcohol).
OK, many thanks for the advice.
what a fantastic job you made of that repair. tony
Thanks! I hope it helped you fix your Micra.
Should work on all Micras.
my k11 wont start, it only starts with startup gas, and dies when i stop spraying.. first i had ignition problem so i change the distributor now that works but it wont start and the sparkplugs are not wet as the should be if the engine dosnt start fuelpump works. enginesymbol flashing.. what can the problem be´?
Have you tried to connect a Nissan Consult cable? You should then be able to see the DTC's. Google can help you figure it out.
no i havent, I just bought myself a errorcode reader, hope that one will tell me whats wrong :)
What is the sealant you use at the end called?
It's just sealant/caulking. Just make sure it is graded for outdoor use and you're fine I think.
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA very neat and explanatory video. Plus, I always enjoy when see a person masking before applying sealant. It's nice to do a clean job! Thanks mate!
Does it shut down when you dont do anything? Mine does its a 1997 micra, it would also shut down while taking turns. For example if im going to take a turn. I slow down get into second gear and and it just and shuts off with the dashboard lighting up.. And sometimes it doesnt instantly start for like 20-30 seconds. Very anoying and dangerous. I hope this problem is fixable its my first car just spended all my working money on it ffs...
Sounds like you have the same problem, the soldering should fix it. Follow the steps in the video and you probably will be driving the Micra for at least 10 years more.
Alright lets hope this does the trick! I will let you know if it did someting. Thanks
Taz Maniac Very similar issue to mine...do you try re soldering and if so did it solve the issue?
Which one is the MAF sensor?
You can't see it in the video. It's not important, because you should not touch it. The problem is not in the sensor, it's in the solder joints on the circuit board.
ok, i just wanted to know so that i can test my car with the sensor umpluged to see if it is the sensor that has the problem.
You can't unplug it; it's embedded in the throttle body, behind the mesh.
@@ClovisRibeiro1987 You can unplug it. At 2:06 the connector is on the bottom of the screen. ( But as far as I remember my car didnt start with that disconnected. )
Nice tutorial man! I will try it on my Micra. I am wondering what you mean by "Make sure to recalibrate the throttle positioning sensor (should be 0.45v) and reset the self learn in the computer". Can you explain in a few words how to do that?
The black thing I unscrew in the beginning of the video is a potentiometer screwed on in a certain position causing it to have a certain resistance when the throttle is untouched. This way the ECU (the computer) will 'know' how far the gas pedal is pressed. So it is important you put it back exactly the way you have taken it off if you take it off. You can also leave it on if you don't mind it being in your way.
You can tune it with a computer (a laptop is a bit easier to carry around, so I'd advise a laptop) and a "Consult Cable". For software you could use Nissan Datascan. If you Google a bit you'll be able to find out what I mean. It's not necessary to use this cable and software, but if you own a Micra it's a great addition to your toolbox. Be sure to buy the correct cable for your Micra! 1992-1999 Uses a 14 pins connector and Nissan Datascan I, 2000 and up uses the OBD2 connector and Nissan Datascan II.
Thanks Lex. Very thorough video. Do you prefer flux paste over the pen type you can get? Have you got a video on cleaning the actual sensor?
You don't have to clean the actual mass air flow sensor (the little curl you see inside the black plastic stick when you look through the mesh on the top where the air filter is connected). If you do, you'll probably break it, because it's very fragile. So don't go poking it with something! The sensor is probably fine, the problem is only in (one of) the solder joints.
If you insist on cleaning something, you might want to clean the stepper motor. But be careful you don't break the paper gasket that's between the stepper motor and the throttle body, you can only get a replacement at a dealer and they never have stuff you need in stock so that will render your car useless for a week. You might be able to cut yourself a new one with a roll of "gasket paper", but that's also not something people have lying around the house very often.
About the flux, that's a personal preference. I love the flux paste I'm using in the video (it's also the best stuff to make the procedure visible in a video), but make sure you clean that stuff off of your PCB. It can cause corrosion if not properly cleaned. If you want minimum risk, you might want to try the no-clean flux that's being sold (I think that's what they're selling in a pen), but there's debate about whether it really doesn't leave a corrosive residue. The best bet is to always clean it; it might take a little more time, but starting over some time later is probably more time consuming.
Also important to know if you're not using a laptop with a consult cable after refitting the part: when taking off the throttle positioning sensor (the black thing I'm unscrewing right at the start), make sure you note how it's set and you set it back the way it came off. It's best you use a laptop, some software (I'm using NissanDatascan) and a cable (Nissan Consult cable should get you further on ebay) for a complete tune up, because that will get you the smoothest running engine.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I think I'll give the cable and software a go if I can get hold of them. To start I'm getting an obd2 tool so I can see what error I'm getting before removing the MAF assembly as it's a little cumbersome to get to. I will be sure to use ipa for a good clean afterwards. What concentration do you use?
Forget OBD2, that doesn't cut it. At least not with the 1995 model (it has a completely different connector), I guess post 2001 models have OBD2 in there, but that won't be enough to clear the learning computer and adjust 'stuff'. OBD2 is fun in combination with apps like Torque and to get a little educated about DTC's and sensors, but to modify stuff you will need the more specialist cables like the Consult cable with Datascan software. Every brand has it's own protocol and all that jazz, it's a bitch I know. Try watching some Delphi Autocom video's, you'll see the difference in "stuff you can do" compared to OBD2. About the concentration, I don't know. The more alcohol is in it, the less residue it's going to leave.
How much do you charge to do this job ?
No jobs, only hobbies.
i am screwed the car dont drive now above 2000rpm what can i do,but good video
I have a problem with this piece and I am confused
What seems to be your problem? What would you like me to help you with?
Mine stalls immediately after starting if it will start at all and the self diagnosis flash code was 143 which apparently is the throttle body too, my car is parked quite far from home what size allen key bolts hold it to the car
Awesome video mate, I am doing mine right now, I hope it will work out!
Thanks for the effort to share this idea. ;-)
Andrew
Don't worry, it'll work out! Just take your time, don't rush it. And if you're done make sure you get yourself a trophy mug!
So far so good.
Let me have a test drive tomorrow!
As taking it out of my warehouse and parking it up felt much much better!
Thanks bro!! ;-)
So what's the verdict? Did you earn yourself a trophy?
MATE, AMAZING!!! IT WORKED 100%!!!! I got back idle, good acceleration, everything! No more smoke or stalling!!!!
GREAT IDEA, GUYS, IF YOU DIDNT KNOW WHATS WRONG WITH YOUR MICRA, TAKE THIS ADVISE.
Thanks much mate, I appreciate your effort.
Cheers, Andrew
Thanks for liking my video!
what exactly did you solder or resolder i just saw you putting on flux and heating the joints
Why are you adding solder?
Where do you see me add solder in the video? I'm only adding flux.
@@LEXMICHDEKAMMERA so you add flux and just heat the original solder up
Slm k11 ariza koduna nasil bakılır ve kodlarin açılımı nedir
Thank you for this video ! My micra works great now ! :)
You are welcome!
Thanks a lot for this video... a lot a lot......
You are most welcome!
excellent video
I hope it helped fixing your car. Thanks!
What symptoms of this problem please reply
thank! Super! This works great!
You just saved my micra 😁👍🏻
+1 Micra! Thanks for fixing!
Maybe not...was 100% perfect for three day and now it’s doing the exact same thing again except much worse now
All depends if you did it right... Did you heat every joint right? Did you use the right flux? Did you clean it thoroughly after you were done? Did you close it up watertight after?
Lex Michdekammera yeh, it’s very strange...it’s moved the Rev limiter down to around 3000rmp
Did you put back the black throttle sensor the same as it was before? Have you connected a Nissan Consult Cable?
Can u do mine please manj from uk
Sorry, you'll need to find someone near you to help you out.
This is TH-cam!
Thanks for the compliment!
No , its nothin , the car nissan micra is broken , its goging to grafyard !
Thank you. Common fault ,Nissan would not pay for part but know about this fault. Never will I by Nissan again.