Quick update on this seat design! On one of my outings I sat down rather forcefully on one occasion and 2 of the 4 metal clips bent. I since doubled them and it's fine, so I'd say go as heavy as you can on the clips - they are the weak link in this design. Thanks for understanding!
I also saw a removeable seat concept that used metal hinges ... you take one hinge and install it on the hull, while the other hinge is installed on the seat. Where the hinge usually marries together, you use a heavy duty linch pin to connect and disconnect the seat. This way, the install is inside the hull, as opposed to creating spots on the gunwale where you can snag something, scrape your hand or paddle, etc.
That sounds like it would work well. I didn't do that only because I was looking for a way to not leave any hardware on the hull permanently. Thanks for the feedback! cheers,
I just made a drop in solo seat for a 17 foot fiberglass Mohawk canoe that was made back in the 80's, for the price I couldn't pass her up. Instead of using the wood and all thread for hangers I bent up some 1/4 x 1 inch aluminum strap to clip on the gunnels which is screwed to the underside of the seat which for now is just a wood plank. With a 17 foot canoe getting the weight in its center really helps. I'm using it with a kayak double bladed paddle and it really makes a difference. The canoe has an extra thwart just behind the front seat which is in the way when trying to solo sitting in the canoe backwards. I just drop the seat in next to the extra thwart and use the thwart as a back rest. Going to give making a webbed seat a try, got the wood and plenty of 1 inch strapping. Thanks for the video on how to do it.
I’m really glad I ran across your video. I just an S-12 Sportspal. The guy had never used the canoe. However he had lost the foam (ick) seats. I’ve had no success in finding the seats I wanted. I never thought about making my own. Fortunately, I have the shop, the tools, and now the know how. Thanks for explaining each step so thoroughly. I have just purchased a 1956 Jewel canned ham trailer which needs a little restoring before use. I’m in great camping shape now that I have my little trailer, new canoe, and especially- the new home made webbed seats that I’ll be making. Thanks for the great video. Joe
Your beard is something to be proud of! Thanks for the tips on making a removable canoe seat. I think I'll end up using this as a removable sail thwart/passenger seat!
Got a "well used" Pelican 15.5, 2004 vintage with original seats long gone. The owner had a couple of mini bass boat seats that put the paddlers at or above. the gunwales....so finding this video will let me build and install nice looking and much safer seats. The only change I am contemplating is to use round head stove bolts (if available) to give a smoooth surface. Bill Lynn, Nixa, MO
If you can find bolts with a screw head for a smoother surface, that would be even better. The only other advice I can offer is that if you're hanging the seat over the gunwale on each side, get a tougher/thicker piece of steel for a bracket on the seat than I did. Mine eventually bent, so I've doubled it now. Thanks for the comment!
Awesome! My only further advice would be to make sure the 4 clips/hooks/supports made of steel brackets are strong enough. Since the making of this video I sat down hard on one of my outings and 2 of the clips bent. I've since reinforced them by doubling them and they're fine now.
Nice job, just one comment on the Locktite to remove tocktited fasteners heat is applied to brake the seal using the angle grinder may have over heated the fastener. You can also peen over the threads giving you one more level of redundancy ( belt, and two pairs of suspenders)
Hey thanks man I've been looking for some seats for my canoe as well. The canoe I have is a two-seater but plenty of space for more seats and I have a 7-year-old and a 4-month old LOL.
There is one additional improvement that should be added. Where the threaded rod comes through the metal hanging clip it should be grooved so that it allows an adjustable distance from the upright to the hanging down metal of the clip. Otherwise, it would seem to me that the seat could slide along the gunnels when in use. I'm building a drop in for my canoe and will add this little feature. Glad I saw your note about thicker clips too.
Hey William. Thanks so much for the comment (may help others!). I can tell you for sure that with my matt finish aluminum gunwales and the matt aluminum clips on the seat, there is no sliding of the seat once weight is applied to it. Having said that, your idea is technically better!
@@ruggedoutdoorsguide9904, I should have mentioned that I am very thankful for your sharing this. How To's are what make TH-cam such a fantastic resource and unselfish people like yourself need to be lauded for going to all the trouble to share such great info.
Hey, just a thought for next time you make a video like this - could you show the completed prouduct at the beginning of your video? I found myself skipping towards the end to see exactly what this looked like before I watched it!
Super great video, Thank you for sharing. Unfortunately I do not have the tools. Can I hire you to make this for my Canoe? I dont start paddling till summer 2024 so its no absolute rush, its for the kiddos.
I totally can but I'm not sure of the cost. Materials are about $25 - $30 here in Canada but labour would be most of a day and then a few more waiting days for stains and varnishes to dry. The problem, aside from price is that each seat is best made for a specific canoe. I'd need to know the exact width of the gunwales at the front of the seat and then about 8 inches farther (behind the seat) since the canoe will taper wider (or narrower) from the front of the seat to the back. I'd also need to know what the gunwales look like (shape, material, other obstructions at the attachment points, etc.). It's very possible I could make a beautiful seat, only to have it fit your canoe poorly. I do have a drop-in foam seat that I feature on several of my videos that I would be willing to part with, but there's the issue of getting it to you and then you'd have to understand that it would need to lean against a thwart to function properly - and it's made for only one small person. If you'd like more info or to discuss anything, drop me an email at - pete@ruggedoutdoorsguide.com
Looks really good. I’m about to do the same thing, wasn’t planning to make them removable but I think I will after watching your video. I’m using all stainless hardware for mine. Plan on using screws with large washers for the webbing instead of staples…. Not sure if it’ll work that way or not, I may be buying stainless staples as well.
The only caution I would add is that the clips for the gunwales should be very beefy. My original ones (as you see them in this video) failed a few weeks into heavy use and they just bent. Thicker gauge steel is best. Cheers,
@@ruggedoutdoorsguide9904 I’m still trying to find something to go over the gunwales….. I may end up fabricating something myself since everything I’ve seen is pretty flimsy. One question, does the seat stay in place well? Doesn’t slide forward or back much?
Bro I made this see use the same stuff that you kind of had from Home Depot the threaded rod and that I weigh 300 lb man I buckled that seat like like it was nothing like those metal brackets just bent right out of shape that's on a sportspal I'm going to move up to a j shape quarter inch aluminum sheet with an L to attach the long pieces of wood and hopefully that'll hold me thanks though it's a good idea
You mentioned not having anything on the gunwale that you could bang your hand on. Does the finished seat not have such hazard? with the metal hanger straddling the Gunwale? Thanks for the video. I like your style of presentation.
The metal hanger is thinner than a piece of cardboard box from Amazon so it really doesn't stick out from the gunwales at all - at least not enough to smack my hand on anyway. If anyone experiences otherwise, it would be due to perhaps a different paddling style.
Great video and thank you for sharing. Of course I liked and subscribed! I did have one question for you. How much weight do you think the seat can hold??
Thanks for the sub! There's no good answer unfortunately. The one in the photo had a fail moment on a trip where 2 of the clips just gave way and bent straight. So, I bought another construction metal bracket at Home Depot which was made of metal as thick as I could possibly bend using a sledge hammer and a heavy duty vench vise. It now holds all my weight but I have not tested it further. I weigh 175 lbs. Sorry I can't offer any further info (without breaking the seat I'm afraid!). cheers,
You could increase the diameter of the wood and/or upgrade the material to a hardwood like oak to increase the weight carrying ability. I'll definitely use oak when I make one of these. Oak would accept stain a lot better also.
You're right about the metal brackets - I added a double layer for my weight - not necessary for smaller person. I didn't cover every minute detail like how I filed and smoothly finished the cut threaded rod at the nut and coated it with Marine Goop (like shoe goo). Carriage bolts won't work since they are far too short (at least at Amazon and Home Depot). Ideally I would have used proper seat hanging hardware (www.organicboatshop.com/store/p120/Stainless_Steel_Hardware.html#/) but every supplier I contacted at the time was out of stock. Thanks for watching! cheers,
Quick update on this seat design! On one of my outings I sat down rather forcefully on one occasion and 2 of the 4 metal clips bent. I since doubled them and it's fine, so I'd say go as heavy as you can on the clips - they are the weak link in this design. Thanks for understanding!
Thanks for looking out. I think I will spray some Flex Seal (liquid rubber sealant coating) on the metal.
I like that you use original ideas. Too many people are just regurgitating the same information these days.
That's the ideas yes! Thanks for your feedback! Blessings to you,
Well, 3 years later & you're at 5700+ subscribers. Congratulations!
Yes! Thank you kindly! Life is a bit hectic now so it's tough to find time to create content right now - hoping and praying!
I also saw a removeable seat concept that used metal hinges ... you take one hinge and install it on the hull, while the other hinge is installed on the seat. Where the hinge usually marries together, you use a heavy duty linch pin to connect and disconnect the seat. This way, the install is inside the hull, as opposed to creating spots on the gunwale where you can snag something, scrape your hand or paddle, etc.
That sounds like it would work well. I didn't do that only because I was looking for a way to not leave any hardware on the hull permanently. Thanks for the feedback! cheers,
@@ruggedoutdoorsguide9904 that makes sense.
You could use treated or untreated (then seal) 2"×2"s for the seat framing too, I think, if you don't have a table saw.
Absolutely!
I just made a drop in solo seat for a 17 foot fiberglass Mohawk canoe that was made back in the 80's, for the price I couldn't pass her up. Instead of using the wood and all thread for hangers I bent up some 1/4 x 1 inch aluminum strap to clip on the gunnels which is screwed to the underside of the seat which for now is just a wood plank. With a 17 foot canoe getting the weight in its center really helps. I'm using it with a kayak double bladed paddle and it really makes a difference. The canoe has an extra thwart just behind the front seat which is in the way when trying to solo sitting in the canoe backwards. I just drop the seat in next to the extra thwart and use the thwart as a back rest. Going to give making a webbed seat a try, got the wood and plenty of 1 inch strapping. Thanks for the video on how to do it.
I appreciate your feedback. Thanks for watching!
I’m really glad I ran across your video. I just an S-12 Sportspal. The guy had never used the canoe. However he had lost the foam (ick) seats. I’ve had no success in finding the seats I wanted. I never thought about making my own. Fortunately, I have the shop, the tools, and now the know how. Thanks for explaining each step so thoroughly. I have just purchased a 1956 Jewel canned ham trailer which needs a little restoring before use. I’m in great camping shape now that I have my little trailer, new canoe, and especially- the new home made webbed seats that I’ll be making. Thanks for the great video. Joe
Hey Joe; I'm always encouraged by positive feedback like yours. Let me know if I can be of any help on any related topics! Blessings to you!
The foam seats suck anyway. I threw mine away too.
Your beard is something to be proud of! Thanks for the tips on making a removable canoe seat. I think I'll end up using this as a removable sail thwart/passenger seat!
Thanks Matt - no one's ever said anything about my beard :) cheers,
Got a "well used" Pelican 15.5, 2004 vintage with original seats long gone. The owner had a couple of mini bass boat seats that put the paddlers at or above. the gunwales....so finding this video will let me build and install nice looking and much safer seats. The only change I am contemplating is to use round head stove bolts (if available) to give a smoooth surface.
Bill Lynn, Nixa, MO
If you can find bolts with a screw head for a smoother surface, that would be even better. The only other advice I can offer is that if you're hanging the seat over the gunwale on each side, get a tougher/thicker piece of steel for a bracket on the seat than I did. Mine eventually bent, so I've doubled it now. Thanks for the comment!
thanks, I'm going to try this so I can have a once-in-a-while two person setup in my 12ft solo canoe
Awesome! My only further advice would be to make sure the 4 clips/hooks/supports made of steel brackets are strong enough. Since the making of this video I sat down hard on one of my outings and 2 of the clips bent. I've since reinforced them by doubling them and they're fine now.
Nice, I am working on building some seats to replace the ones that came with my canoe...
It can be a challenge but it should be fun! Many blessings!
Nice job, just one comment on the Locktite to remove tocktited fasteners heat is applied to brake the seal using the angle grinder may have over heated the fastener. You can also peen over the threads giving you one more level of redundancy ( belt, and two pairs of suspenders)
Hey Vincent; I appreciate you taking the time to comment and offer advice - I'm always up to that and always happy to learn!
Nice job on Web Seat 🙏🏻❤️🇺🇸
Thanks Randy! Many blessings,
Hey thanks man I've been looking for some seats for my canoe as well. The canoe I have is a two-seater but plenty of space for more seats and I have a 7-year-old and a 4-month old LOL.
Perfect - enjoy the years before they're gone!
There is one additional improvement that should be added. Where the threaded rod comes through the metal hanging clip it should be grooved so that it allows an adjustable distance from the upright to the hanging down metal of the clip. Otherwise, it would seem to me that the seat could slide along the gunnels when in use. I'm building a drop in for my canoe and will add this little feature. Glad I saw your note about thicker clips too.
Hey William. Thanks so much for the comment (may help others!). I can tell you for sure that with my matt finish aluminum gunwales and the matt aluminum clips on the seat, there is no sliding of the seat once weight is applied to it. Having said that, your idea is technically better!
@@ruggedoutdoorsguide9904, I should have mentioned that I am very thankful for your sharing this. How To's are what make TH-cam such a fantastic resource and unselfish people like yourself need to be lauded for going to all the trouble to share such great info.
Hey, just a thought for next time you make a video like this - could you show the completed prouduct at the beginning of your video? I found myself skipping towards the end to see exactly what this looked like before I watched it!
Perhaps - that's one of many things I could do differently - I wish I was a broadcasting veteran :) thanks for the feedback!
Super great video, Thank you for sharing. Unfortunately I do not have the tools. Can I hire you to make this for my Canoe? I dont start paddling till summer 2024 so its no absolute rush, its for the kiddos.
I totally can but I'm not sure of the cost. Materials are about $25 - $30 here in Canada but labour would be most of a day and then a few more waiting days for stains and varnishes to dry. The problem, aside from price is that each seat is best made for a specific canoe. I'd need to know the exact width of the gunwales at the front of the seat and then about 8 inches farther (behind the seat) since the canoe will taper wider (or narrower) from the front of the seat to the back. I'd also need to know what the gunwales look like (shape, material, other obstructions at the attachment points, etc.). It's very possible I could make a beautiful seat, only to have it fit your canoe poorly. I do have a drop-in foam seat that I feature on several of my videos that I would be willing to part with, but there's the issue of getting it to you and then you'd have to understand that it would need to lean against a thwart to function properly - and it's made for only one small person. If you'd like more info or to discuss anything, drop me an email at - pete@ruggedoutdoorsguide.com
Great video - just the seat I was looking for! Oh, I subscribed cause us old balding / graying old guys gotta band together!
Thanks for subbing. Get some videos happening and I'll check out Travels with Flynn!
Well done. Great ideas and descriptions. Thanks.
You're very welcome!
Looks really good. I’m about to do the same thing, wasn’t planning to make them removable but I think I will after watching your video. I’m using all stainless hardware for mine. Plan on using screws with large washers for the webbing instead of staples…. Not sure if it’ll work that way or not, I may be buying stainless staples as well.
The only caution I would add is that the clips for the gunwales should be very beefy. My original ones (as you see them in this video) failed a few weeks into heavy use and they just bent. Thicker gauge steel is best. Cheers,
@@ruggedoutdoorsguide9904 I’m still trying to find something to go over the gunwales….. I may end up fabricating something myself since everything I’ve seen is pretty flimsy. One question, does the seat stay in place well? Doesn’t slide forward or back much?
I'm a beginner so any info is appreciated
You've come to the right place! We're all beginners at some point, even the pros were once newbies. Just keep paddling and learning along the way!
Nicely done sir
Positive feedback is always appreciated! Thank you!
Bro I made this see use the same stuff that you kind of had from Home Depot the threaded rod and that I weigh 300 lb man I buckled that seat like like it was nothing like those metal brackets just bent right out of shape that's on a sportspal I'm going to move up to a j shape quarter inch aluminum sheet with an L to attach the long pieces of wood and hopefully that'll hold me thanks though it's a good idea
Good info! Hopefully someone might follow that advice! The brackets were weak for even me (165 lbs) so I upgraded to heavier gauge.
You mentioned not having anything on the gunwale that you could bang your hand on. Does the finished seat not have such hazard? with the metal hanger straddling the Gunwale?
Thanks for the video. I like your style of presentation.
The metal hanger is thinner than a piece of cardboard box from Amazon so it really doesn't stick out from the gunwales at all - at least not enough to smack my hand on anyway. If anyone experiences otherwise, it would be due to perhaps a different paddling style.
Thank you
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Wow, I love this idea and video. Thank you for doing this.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the encouragement!
Great video and thank you for sharing. Of course I liked and subscribed! I did have one question for you. How much weight do you think the seat can hold??
Thanks for the sub! There's no good answer unfortunately. The one in the photo had a fail moment on a trip where 2 of the clips just gave way and bent straight. So, I bought another construction metal bracket at Home Depot which was made of metal as thick as I could possibly bend using a sledge hammer and a heavy duty vench vise. It now holds all my weight but I have not tested it further. I weigh 175 lbs. Sorry I can't offer any further info (without breaking the seat I'm afraid!). cheers,
You could increase the diameter of the wood and/or upgrade the material to a hardwood like oak to increase the weight carrying ability. I'll definitely use oak when I make one of these. Oak would accept stain a lot better also.
What size is the webbing? 1 1/2"? 2"?
Sorry. You already answered in your desciption. Thanks for the video.
2 inches wide :) I know but I just had to answer cause I knew the answer off the top of my head! Thanks for watching.
metal brackets are far too flimsy and threaded rod protruding looks hazardous. get a proper carriage bolt. thanks anyway......
You're right about the metal brackets - I added a double layer for my weight - not necessary for smaller person. I didn't cover every minute detail like how I filed and smoothly finished the cut threaded rod at the nut and coated it with Marine Goop (like shoe goo). Carriage bolts won't work since they are far too short (at least at Amazon and Home Depot). Ideally I would have used proper seat hanging hardware (www.organicboatshop.com/store/p120/Stainless_Steel_Hardware.html#/) but every supplier I contacted at the time was out of stock. Thanks for watching! cheers,
I think i seen this guy on onlyfans
No, but if that's a compliment, thank you! :) cheers,