Thank you very much for this. I bought a 20 year old 16' Old Town Camper with blown out cane seats off craigslist for $200. Pulled off all the ash, sanded, applied 2 coats of star marine varnish and then rewebbed both seats with 1" black polypro just as you instructed and it worked great. Also found the 303 aerospace protectant which brought the royalex back to life. Can't wait to get this old girl back in the water. Thanks for the video, really helped.
This turned out to be a pretty easy job, and your tips really helped. Especially: 1) the box to dispense the webbing, 2) the hot knife to cut it, and 3) something on the work surface to pull against. My two old seats came out really well. They are going into a Kevlar Wenonah to replace the tractor seats that I don't like.
I recently picked up an old town pathfinder for the family to enjoy. Used your method for rewebbing the seats and it came out perfect. Thank you for the advice and for sharing.
@@Woodenarrows thank you! It'll be a bit; webbing was too expensive at the store. I'll order a roll like you did, I think. Glad to hear that yours is holding up!
First off, thanks for this!! My old caned seat blew out, so doing some research found this. I'm a DIYer and this was perfect (love the soldering iron = hot knife trick!). It looks great and is holding up great. Saved a ton of money, thanks
Great, glad yours turned out well too. The webbed seats do work well and will last a long time. Mine is still good as new and it's nice to know we did it ourselves. Thanks for the comment and thanks for stopping by....
No, it's as tight today as day 1, however I used Polyproplene, not Nylon. From the website: "Even though nylon webbing is stronger, polypro webbing has some advantages over nylon webbing. It is able to hold its shape because it is stretch resistant. Polypro webbing is water-proof, which makes it most useful for projects around water and humidity. It will not absorb water, and as a result it will float. This webbing strap is more resistant to acid and alkaline, oil and grease than nylon webbing"
@kawi3000 There is a link in the video description for the supplier I purchased from (Country Brook Design). I used the 1 Inch Black Polypro Webbing. It has held up well, still looks new, still nice and tight.
Longest stainless steel staples I could find at the time.... 5/16" May sound short but there are 3 staples in each end of each web strip and everything is still intact. The seat is holding up just fine. I was wanting 3/8" but to be truthful, I don't think I could have driven 3/8" staples into the ash wood frame. Even with the 5/16" staples I had to hammer some in fully to set them.
Awesome! So I have a question. I found a pack 12 I am planning to pick up on Friday. The only thing wrong with it is the seat so I’m going to use your video to help me. I keep seeing that the weight limit is 550-600 but I watched another video and they made it seem like the canoe can barely handle a bigger guy. Any advice? By the way I weight about 250lbs. Which is my only concern
@@janseendiguiseppiThomasMC I don't think there will be a problem. I weigh 170 but you can see in this video (link) there is plenty of room yet for more weight. I had probably 200 with my additional equipment. If Old Town list it at 550-600 I'd trust that. th-cam.com/video/wI1ZUgW031o/w-d-xo.html
@a251390 No, I used stainless steel staples for that very reason. See the finished project "Refurbishing my Old Town Pack canoe - finished project" /watch?v=C747oFzN1vQ
+Love2boat92 If you mean aluminum frame seats, yes the same poly webbing should work. You'll just need to figure out a way to fasten it. SS screws and washers maybe, like you would do on an aluminum frame lawn chair? If I were doing one I'd probably do each layer as one continues wrapped piece. That way you’d only need to fasten the two ends of the webbing. I failed to mention it in this video but I used Stainless Steel staples to avoid rust problems. I also used Polypropylene webbing for this seat due to it’s benefits over other materials. Info from the Country Brooke Design website "Polypropylene webbing is a soft, flexible fabric of woven fibers. Made from thermoplastic resins, this versatile material is perfect for outdoor use due to it's UV resistance and waterproof fibers. Polypropylene webbing won't stretch like Nylon webbing can, and is more resistant to acid, alkaline, oil and grease."
***** Yeah it's the aluminum frame seats. I checked the canoe that we have and it has u shaped clips. Stainless steel staples are a great idea. Thanks for your tips.
Nice job on the re-finishing! Do you still have the other seat that was in the front? If so would you like to get rid of it? I have the KayNoe (Dick's Sporting Goods Model)which is the Old Town Discovery 119 Solo Canoe. I think that front seat would work in the front of my boat possibly. I am wanting to put a seat in the front for one of my boys to sit on. Thanks!
5/16" Stainless Steel. The Ash seat frame is pretty hard wood and that's all the length that would drive in the frame. Still had to hammer some of the staples down. None have loosened or come out and the seat is still as tight as the day I did it.
Has the nylon seat stretched at all since you made this video? I need to perform a similar repair and wondered if I needed to "pre-stretch" my webbing. Thanks.
I am going to try webbing a seat on my guide 119. What is the webbing material called? You might have mentioned this in the video but I don't have audio right now. Thanks!
I picked 1" for it's look, ease of working/fitting in the frame space and easier to stretch for a tight seat. It is also less costly than wider webbing.
Hey. I know it has been a while since you've uploaded this, but have you had any problem with the staples rusting? I was looking for this webbing approach, so thanks for the tutorial. I was just worried about the long-term effect of those staples. Any thoughts?
Andy Beaver Thanks for stopping by Andy. The seat is as good as new today. I am planning to get it back out maybe next week or so. The staples I used are Stainless Steel. Got them at Home Depot, they are holding just like new... Guess I failed to mention it in this video but did mention it in the finished video, here's that link... th-cam.com/video/C747oFzN1vQ/w-d-xo.html
Wondering about that myself. I do something very similar, but I use galvanized staples, with an air stapler. I also staple to the inside surface of the seat, gives one more corner to turn, and keeps you from rubbing skin on staples, like the backs of your calves if you kneel. As to what it would support- the guy asking about 300 pounds?- the webbing will not be the weakest link here! The staples could pull loose, or more likely, you could break the wood, or even pull (bust) out a bolt where the seats are mounted to the hull.
You must be looking athe a different webbing. I just checked, it has gone up but still reasonable at $15.95 for 100 yds. www.countrybrookdesign.com/webbing-and-hardware/polypropylene-webbing-polypro/1-inch/webbing-polypro-black-1-inch.html
The webbing I used is rated to 600 pounds. I have other 1" webbing rated to 1200 pounds. The weight limit will be the seat frame materials, hangers and and fasteners. I weigh 165 pounds, been fine for me. 300 pounds???
No, I do not. In my video I commented it took 12 ft for the first wrap direction and 14 ft for the cross layer wrap to do that one seat. That's 8.6 yards for the one seat. Get some extra, it comes in handy for a lot of things :-)
Thank you very much for this. I bought a 20 year old 16' Old Town Camper with blown out cane seats off craigslist for $200. Pulled off all the ash, sanded, applied 2 coats of star marine varnish and then rewebbed both seats with 1" black polypro just as you instructed and it worked great. Also found the 303 aerospace protectant which brought the royalex back to life. Can't wait to get this old girl back in the water. Thanks for the video, really helped.
This turned out to be a pretty easy job, and your tips really helped. Especially: 1) the box to dispense the webbing, 2) the hot knife to cut it, and 3) something on the work surface to pull against. My two old seats came out really well. They are going into a Kevlar Wenonah to replace the tractor seats that I don't like.
Great! I'm gald they turned out well. Enjoy your work :-)
I recently picked up an old town pathfinder for the family to enjoy. Used your method for rewebbing the seats and it came out perfect. Thank you for the advice and for sharing.
Thank you! Took our Old Town out this afternoon and we were starting to sink through the cane. Off to the hardware store I go!
:-) Hope your repair goes as well as mine did. My seat is still going great...
@@Woodenarrows thank you! It'll be a bit; webbing was too expensive at the store. I'll order a roll like you did, I think. Glad to hear that yours is holding up!
First off, thanks for this!! My old caned seat blew out, so doing some research found this. I'm a DIYer and this was perfect (love the soldering iron = hot knife trick!). It looks great and is holding up great. Saved a ton of money, thanks
Great, glad yours turned out well too. The webbed seats do work well and will last a long time. Mine is still good as new and it's nice to know we did it ourselves. Thanks for the comment and thanks for stopping by....
Hey thanks for tip. I ordered the strap and I my wife and I just got seats done. They look great.
You're welcome. Mine is still like new...
No, it's as tight today as day 1, however I used Polyproplene, not Nylon. From the website: "Even though nylon webbing is stronger, polypro webbing has some advantages over nylon webbing. It is able to hold its shape because it is stretch resistant. Polypro webbing is water-proof, which makes it most useful for projects around water and humidity. It will not absorb water, and as a result it will float. This webbing strap is more resistant to acid and alkaline, oil and grease than nylon webbing"
Okay thanks, I will definitely go check that out! And good to know, I wasn't sure how long it would hold up!
Jim that turned out great Better than what the new one probably showed up as.
Nice job, and it looks great! I bet you can bounce quarters off that seat. Can't wait to see the finished project.
@kawi3000 There is a link in the video description for the supplier I purchased from (Country Brook Design). I used the 1 Inch Black Polypro Webbing. It has held up well, still looks new, still nice and tight.
Longest stainless steel staples I could find at the time.... 5/16" May sound short but there are 3 staples in each end of each web strip and everything is still intact. The seat is holding up just fine.
I was wanting 3/8" but to be truthful, I don't think I could have driven 3/8" staples into the ash wood frame. Even with the 5/16" staples I had to hammer some in fully to set them.
Great, glad my video helped you. Just this morning I discovered some new (to me) quiet canoe water. I'm anxious to give it a paddle.
Great looking job!
Great job! That seat came out great!
Thanks, I appreciate the comment. The seat is still in great shape...
Awesome! So I have a question. I found a pack 12 I am planning to pick up on Friday. The only thing wrong with it is the seat so I’m going to use your video to help me. I keep seeing that the weight limit is 550-600 but I watched another video and they made it seem like the canoe can barely handle a bigger guy. Any advice? By the way I weight about 250lbs. Which is my only concern
@@janseendiguiseppiThomasMC I don't think there will be a problem. I weigh 170 but you can see in this video (link) there is plenty of room yet for more weight. I had probably 200 with my additional equipment. If Old Town list it at 550-600 I'd trust that. th-cam.com/video/wI1ZUgW031o/w-d-xo.html
@a251390 No, I used stainless steel staples for that very reason. See the finished project "Refurbishing my Old Town Pack canoe - finished project" /watch?v=C747oFzN1vQ
Very nice job, Sir. I'm looking for an OT Pack to buy myself.
Thank you 🙏🏻
@BBrink76 you're welcome. Thanks for watching
very nice video. learn so much.
What do you recommend for aluminum seats? The same thing?
+Love2boat92 If you mean aluminum frame seats, yes the same poly webbing should work. You'll just need to figure out a way to fasten it. SS screws and washers maybe, like you would do on an aluminum frame lawn chair? If I were doing one I'd probably do each layer as one continues wrapped piece. That way you’d only need to fasten the two ends of the webbing. I failed to mention it in this video but I used Stainless Steel staples to avoid rust problems. I also used Polypropylene webbing for this seat due to it’s benefits over other materials. Info from the Country Brooke Design website "Polypropylene webbing is a soft, flexible fabric of woven fibers. Made from thermoplastic resins, this versatile material is perfect for outdoor use due to it's UV resistance and waterproof fibers. Polypropylene webbing won't stretch like Nylon webbing can, and is more resistant to acid, alkaline, oil and grease."
***** Yeah it's the aluminum frame seats. I checked the canoe that we have and it has u shaped clips. Stainless steel staples are a great idea. Thanks for your tips.
Loved the video......thank you!
Nice job on the re-finishing! Do you still have the other seat that was in the front? If so would you like to get rid of it? I have the KayNoe (Dick's Sporting Goods Model)which is the Old Town Discovery 119 Solo Canoe. I think that front seat would work in the front of my boat possibly. I am wanting to put a seat in the front for one of my boys to sit on. Thanks!
Yes, I still have the seat. Although I haven't used it, I don't want to let it go. I'm known for changing my mind about things :-)
***** Hey man I completely understand! It never hurts to ask, lol! Happy boating!!
Very nice job, super neat. What length staples did you use?
5/16" Stainless Steel. The Ash seat frame is pretty hard wood and that's all the length that would drive in the frame. Still had to hammer some of the staples down. None have loosened or come out and the seat is still as tight as the day I did it.
Thanks. I'm thinking of going with 2" webbing, to cut the number of strips in half. Any reason, aside from aesthetics, not to go with 2"?
Has the nylon seat stretched at all since you made this video? I need to perform a similar repair and wondered if I needed to "pre-stretch" my webbing. Thanks.
I am going to try webbing a seat on my guide 119. What is the webbing material called? You might have mentioned this in the video but I don't have audio right now. Thanks!
Why did you choose 1" webbing over 1.5"? Do you think your technique would work with 1.5" poly webbing as effectively?
I picked 1" for it's look, ease of working/fitting in the frame space and easier to stretch for a tight seat. It is also less costly than wider webbing.
You should have just wrapped both sides. At 13 cents a foot you maybe saved a buck. Which you lost on staples, which have now rusted away...
What was the spacing in between the webbing
Hey. I know it has been a while since you've uploaded this, but have you had any problem with the staples rusting? I was looking for this webbing approach, so thanks for the tutorial. I was just worried about the long-term effect of those staples.
Any thoughts?
Andy Beaver Thanks for stopping by Andy. The seat is as good as new today. I am planning to get it back out maybe next week or so. The staples I used are Stainless Steel. Got them at Home Depot, they are holding just like new... Guess I failed to mention it in this video but did mention it in the finished video, here's that link... th-cam.com/video/C747oFzN1vQ/w-d-xo.html
Wondering about that myself. I do something very similar, but I use galvanized staples, with an air stapler. I also staple to the inside surface of the seat, gives one more corner to turn, and keeps you from rubbing skin on staples, like the backs of your calves if you kneel. As to what it would support- the guy asking about 300 pounds?- the webbing will not be the weakest link here! The staples could pull loose, or more likely, you could break the wood, or even pull (bust) out a bolt where the seats are mounted to the hull.
Great info - thanks!
muy buena idea, exclente, y es muy libiano, y facil de repar
wow the webbing is now $54.95 for 50 yards....you got a deal for 100 yards for $12
You must be looking athe a different webbing. I just checked, it has gone up but still reasonable at $15.95 for 100 yds. www.countrybrookdesign.com/webbing-and-hardware/polypropylene-webbing-polypro/1-inch/webbing-polypro-black-1-inch.html
Can this support 250 to 300lbs?
The webbing I used is rated to 600 pounds. I have other 1" webbing rated to 1200 pounds. The weight limit will be the seat frame materials, hangers and and fasteners. I weigh 165 pounds, been fine for me. 300 pounds???
Awesome!!! thank you
How much webbing did you use? Do you think 10 yards will do 2 of those seats?
No, I do not. In my video I commented it took 12 ft for the first wrap direction and 14 ft for the cross layer wrap to do that one seat. That's 8.6 yards for the one seat. Get some extra, it comes in handy for a lot of things :-)