I was glad to hear you say that you don’t want to skip past too much of the forging because of all the little strategies you can see. To many people skip past the forging when that is the best part. I wish I would have found your channel sooner! Very informative!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge....yet again. You're a huge asset to the knife making community being as giving as you are with info! I've learned a ton! Cheers from Eastern Canada!
Great video, Salem. I can't wait to forge knives someday. Nick Anderson lives out here in the Bay Area where I'm from. I'm hoping to get into one of his classes when this covid stuff clears up. You guys both do amazing work. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent video- as it happens I was going to try this with some mosaic tiles on my next chefs knife- do you have any videos on how you go about an s grind? Also looking to try that- Thanks for all the excellent info
Lots of reasons. Less distortion... the ability to add edge bars... the ability to install bolsters of a different pattern than the blade... nothing wrong with the native bolster method, just different tools to suit whatever job may be at hand.
Can you explain the process of a sub critical anneal? the words sound self explanatory, but Alec Steele made a video with advice from Mareko where he quenched the blade, then sub-critically annealed and it confused the hell out of me. What would be the benefit of such a process?
It’s basically an extra high heat temper. 12-1300 degrees Fahrenheit. It results, after forging and normalizing but not quenching, in a part fine pearlite structure with any stray bits of martensite from partial air hardening thoroughly tempered very soft. If repeated three times it works best, and actually approximates a fine spheroidized structure wherein the carbides are effectively “balled up” increasing machinability.
These are plenty thick, as forged. About 0.275" along the spine. Typical for tile mosaic forgings, at least for me. They can be forged much thinner if more pattern distortion is acceptable.
@@PrometheanBlade I forge also though my channel is more towards building crappy equipment that can be used for the blacksmith Thank you for the content
I was glad to hear you say that you don’t want to skip past too much of the forging because of all the little strategies you can see. To many people skip past the forging when that is the best part. I wish I would have found your channel sooner! Very informative!
Thanks for posting and sharing Salem!
Keep it going! Love getting to see more videos. Also, get to see more of the awesome machinery you use. Great info and editing is looking good!
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge....yet again. You're a huge asset to the knife making community being as giving as you are with info! I've learned a ton! Cheers from Eastern Canada!
Nice video, I like the way you explain the process as you go along, very informative . Regards from Down Under.
I think Ilya is a little jealous of you doing bolsters this way. I figured, if you have the tools, use them. Well done
Im extremely pkease you started with these videos im hoping they continue i know its not easy
Nice..👍
Great vid ive been watching your work for a few years and i have to say you have refined your procces to prefection and it has inspired my growth
Awesome videos man.. like the commentary too.. you do excellent work..
I personally prefer wire feed welding. It was the easiest for me to learn over tig or arc or even O.A. I love the smell of metal shops.
I do enjoy all types of welding. I agree it's easiest to learn, and is my practical daily preference.
Great video, Salem. I can't wait to forge knives someday. Nick Anderson lives out here in the Bay Area where I'm from. I'm hoping to get into one of his classes when this covid stuff clears up. You guys both do amazing work. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent video- as it happens I was going to try this with some mosaic tiles on my next chefs knife- do you have any videos on how you go about an s grind? Also looking to try that-
Thanks for all the excellent info
I’ll probably do that at some point. I’ll be s grinding these, but as I said they’ve gotta move so next upload is a damascus video
Awesome, thanks!
Great video man, I am curious though why you didn't just forge the bolster in the billet vs. this method?
Lots of reasons. Less distortion... the ability to add edge bars... the ability to install bolsters of a different pattern than the blade...
nothing wrong with the native bolster method, just different tools to suit whatever job may be at hand.
Nice work Man!
Can you explain the process of a sub critical anneal? the words sound self explanatory, but Alec Steele made a video with advice from Mareko where he quenched the blade, then sub-critically annealed and it confused the hell out of me. What would be the benefit of such a process?
It’s basically an extra high heat temper. 12-1300 degrees Fahrenheit. It results, after forging and normalizing but not quenching, in a part fine pearlite structure with any stray bits of martensite from partial air hardening thoroughly tempered very soft. If repeated three times it works best, and actually approximates a fine spheroidized structure wherein the carbides are effectively “balled up” increasing machinability.
HI. Love your work :) I was wondering why you forge the heel thinner than the rest of the edge?
To draw it out to get a wider heel
Good question. I forge the heel out wider primarily, the thinning is a byproduct of that. A tall heel is nice for a chef knife!
How thick is the blade ?
These are plenty thick, as forged. About 0.275" along the spine. Typical for tile mosaic forgings, at least for me. They can be forged much thinner if more pattern distortion is acceptable.
@@PrometheanBlade I forge also though my channel is more towards building crappy equipment that can be used for the blacksmith
Thank you for the content