Nice job on this one. I'm curious to watch your process on hand sanding the s-grind portion. That has been a challenge in the past for me. Thanks for the great content, keep it up!
"I just kinda grind them in free hand" As opposed to the rest of us mere mortals that just kinda f**k it up and destroy many hours of work. You sir have some mad skills on that machine. this is also probably the best I've seen as a demonstration of compound grinds.
Grinding is a skill and art in itself. I remember being timid and scared of the grinder but after years of practice I’m more confident and it’s become routine. Great video!🔥⚒💪🏻
Beautiful work, very exacting, a pleasure to watch you at the grinder. It must have taken you some years to achieve such a high level of skill that enables you to produce such high quality pieces. Thoroughly enjoyed watching your video. Regards from Down Under.
Very nice tutorial 👍 could you please explain about the curve platen? if I’m not mistaken, you said approx. 30 inch diameter, right? Means yours curve platen has a 15 inch radius, or almost 400 mm? I’m from Russia) and we have a metric system) also for me is bit difficult to understand English speech) sorry))
You mentioned something in this video I think I have had an issue with. I recently got a Rockwell tester. When I heat treat my high carbon steel, I don't use any foil, or anti scale compound. I go through normalizing, 1600-1500-1400, each for aprox 5 min soaks, then quench after a 10 min soak. I have been frustrated lately because I heat treated some 80CRV 2, and was getting a hardness of 50HRC, and it should be 65HRC right after quench. Is that because I am not grinding off the decarb before I rockwell test? Should I use some anti scale to fix this issue?
You definitely have to grind the decarb off. 80crv2 in particular decarbs fairly deeply, 5 thousandths at least will need to come off before Rc test, and the surface finish at the test site should be at least 120 grit. Antiscale would help but you still won’t want to test without a little surface grind first.
@@PrometheanBlade thank you very much sir. I have been following you for about 3 years now. Love your work. Wish I lived closer so I could pay you to teach me. LOL
@@PrometheanBlade It's definitely better when you use jig. It's way faster than without cooling. Plus there is almost zero dust from Al2O3 abrasives, so you don't have to wear a mask.
@@gorodph a jig is not better. A jig could not reproduce this grind. Grinding wet might be faster for plain beveling, but I do that quickly enough anyway. It’s not worth the additional mess and setup. I do agree that keeping the dust down would be a benefit… but like I say, it’s not a “net” positive change for my shop.
Awesome video, this is the first one I've seen actually explaining this process.
Nice job on this one. I'm curious to watch your process on hand sanding the s-grind portion. That has been a challenge in the past for me. Thanks for the great content, keep it up!
Hey Salem thanks for making these videos. Very useful! Your knives are beautiful.
Great video Salem. You're an inspirational maker.
Great video Salem. I found the downward shots looking at your grinding using the radiused pattern especially helpful.
Great video once again- thanks for all the knowledge you share
thank you again, always learn some good shit from you!, love the plattern that imitates the wheel radius, I'm gonna try one
Wow I'm glad I found this channel
Me too! Good to have you
Excellent information.. thank you! Nice work on the blades.
Great video. Keep making them. Even longer and showing a knife from start to finish. I'd love to see the grinds in some cut tests as well.
"I just kinda grind them in free hand"
As opposed to the rest of us mere mortals that just kinda f**k it up and destroy many hours of work. You sir have some mad skills on that machine. this is also probably the best I've seen as a demonstration of compound grinds.
This was just my first tought ... free Hand ... you fuc... kiding me man :O
thank you for the vid! now to make a couple of platens!
great instructions, thanks for that as always
Grinding is a skill and art in itself. I remember being timid and scared of the grinder but after years of practice I’m more confident and it’s become routine. Great video!🔥⚒💪🏻
True! Just takes putting the time in. I was terrible at it when I first started flat grinding on my old 1x42” Viel...
great video im gonna attempt a S grind for the 1st time hopefully i wont screw it up 🤪🤪👍👍 thanks Mark
Beautiful work, very exacting, a pleasure to watch you at the grinder. It must have taken you some years to achieve such a high level of skill that enables you to produce such high quality pieces. Thoroughly enjoyed watching your video. Regards from Down Under.
Thanks a lot! I’ve been making knives since around 2003... chef knives since 2011 or so.
You’re certainly up there with the best of them!
Nice work, subbed 👍
Bless your heart Salem. 🤟🍻
Could someone please provide the measurements at the end in metric 11:02?
Please.
Thanks for sharing this, finding less and less information as my skills improve.
Very nice tutorial 👍 could you please explain about the curve platen? if I’m not mistaken, you said approx. 30 inch diameter, right? Means yours curve platen has a 15 inch radius, or almost 400 mm? I’m from Russia) and we have a metric system) also for me is bit difficult to understand English speech) sorry))
You are correct. Arc section of 30” diameter circle, so a 15” radius. Your English works fine 🙂
@@PrometheanBlade thanks a lot) for the answer)
You mentioned something in this video I think I have had an issue with. I recently got a Rockwell tester. When I heat treat my high carbon steel, I don't use any foil, or anti scale compound. I go through normalizing, 1600-1500-1400, each for aprox 5 min soaks, then quench after a 10 min soak. I have been frustrated lately because I heat treated some 80CRV 2, and was getting a hardness of 50HRC, and it should be 65HRC right after quench. Is that because I am not grinding off the decarb before I rockwell test? Should I use some anti scale to fix this issue?
You definitely have to grind the decarb off. 80crv2 in particular decarbs fairly deeply, 5 thousandths at least will need to come off before Rc test, and the surface finish at the test site should be at least 120 grit.
Antiscale would help but you still won’t want to test without a little surface grind first.
@@PrometheanBlade thank you very much sir. I have been following you for about 3 years now. Love your work. Wish I lived closer so I could pay you to teach me. LOL
Why dry grinding?
That’s mostly what American makers do… it’s how I learned. If I saw a net benefit from wet grinding I might do it🤷🏻♂️
@@PrometheanBlade It's definitely better when you use jig. It's way faster than without cooling. Plus there is almost zero dust from Al2O3 abrasives, so you don't have to wear a mask.
@@gorodph a jig is not better. A jig could not reproduce this grind. Grinding wet might be faster for plain beveling, but I do that quickly enough anyway. It’s not worth the additional mess and setup. I do agree that keeping the dust down would be a benefit… but like I say, it’s not a “net” positive change for my shop.
@@PrometheanBlade Why is it not possible to do an S grind with a jig? Am I missing something?
Morning 👋
Morning! Hey, you’re the first viewer, this JUST finished processing!
Con micrómetro , 😂😂😂😂😂
Easy and accurate!
@@PrometheanBlade A A A .. fácil y preciso
You're breathing all that nasty dust in without a mask.
Very often I do wear a mask. Also I’m usually running my steel dust collecter.
I didn’t used to as much, unfortunately…