Comparing Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate with BONUS
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.พ. 2022
- #3dprinting #polycarbonate #review
In this video, I compare Priline's normal carbon fiber polycarbonate with their superhard carbon fiber polycarbonate.
BONUS FEATURE: I also install and test a $20 ruby tipped nozzle from MOD 3DP.
It's all so very exciting!
Amazon Links:
Priline Normal Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate - www.amazon.com/dp/B074DS3986?...
Priline Superhard Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate - www.amazon.com/PRILINE-Superh...
MOD 3DP Ruby Tipped Nozzle - www.amazon.com/Nozzles-Printe... - บันเทิง
Thank you for the video! Not too much out there on these two. Liked the editing a lot, too.
Great video! Would like to see a dedicated video on wear and print quality with the Mod 3dp ruby nozzle once you've run some prints through. Thanks!
Great suggestion! I'm interested to seeing how it wears as well.
A year later I appreciate your review, looking to try the superhard version as im about out of ABS and need a new SB for the Voron2
Prints look great. I am waiting for this filament to arrive by post. Did you run the parts cooling fan at all with this fillament and what speed do you print it at? Thanks for sharing
I’m only here for the jazz.
Yeah, getting a Mr. Rogers vibe from that music
I agree. It's the best part.
Welcome to the neighborhood.
I love this filament. I have seen some negative reviews of some seemingly smart people testing the material, but in my experience the stuff is fantastic. *In my Bambu* it prints better than PLA. I know that's a crazy statement to some. In my experimentation it prints similarly wet AND dry. It doesn't throw off the nasty fumes of PA-6, but it it very very strong after a little annealing. Finish is way better than PA-6 too. Also the price is right. The only thing I've found close to it is PA-12, but the stuff is expensive and throws off the nasty fumes. BTW I have a vent system and an elaborate filament drying system, but I keep coming back to this stuff... Not sure what else to say.. TBH I'm not even using PLA anymore except maybe for modeling.. Maybe I'm missing something??
I have a question maybe you could help with. I built a tube bender for 1 5/8 thin wall tubing and it will require a bending mandrel to retain the tubular shape as it bends. Some people have made mandrels out of delrin rod cut into small pucks strung together on a cable or chain. This is certainly doable, but I was thinking perhaps 3D printed mandrels might be easier to fabricate. What do you think would be the best material to use for strength? Mandrels are subjected to heavy compression loads and pulling forces as they sit inside the tube being bent right at and slightly past the bending point in order to retain the tube shape.
I'm thinking polycarbonate or nylon carbon blends would be the strongest.
Thanks!
This is a GREAT video. I love Polycarbonate so much easier to print than nylon.
I haven't actually printed with nylon, but maybe someday. Until then, I'll stick with polycarbonate.
Love your video man! What carriage are you using for your AB? Is that the Switchwire carriage? Could you please share your source.
Thank you for loving the video! By "AB", I assume you mean "Afterburner", and if so, I used the MGN/BLTouch carriage found here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4649398 The rest of the hot end assembly parts are from the original Afterburner design.
Awesome video, just ordered some. Any idea where I could fine the stl for that small capsule container? it's the perfect size for a project I'm doing. Thanks in advance.
Here you go!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4602125
@@CSWilsonPrints much appreciation, sir!
Nice. Thanks for making this video.
I've been printing with this CF-PC filament in my Tevo Tornado in an enclosure. I upgraded the hotend, nozzle, and firmware, and print at 270'C nozzle and 107'C bed. I don't remember where I got those temperature settings, but they've been working pretty well. I use a spool dryer box as a spool holder as the filament requires it in high humidity. I'm currently using Generic PC settings on Cura with 100% infill.
Mostly have great prints, but every now and then there will be and error in adhesion and will make a small crevice between layers for maybe 5 mm or so. Usually this doesn't cause a print failure, but I'd like to do better. What are your slicer settings? What do you think would be the best settings for this filament for greatest strength?
Side note: Have you tried printing with Ultem 9085 yet? That will be my next I think.
Thanks again.
Whats your chamber temp? You want 60c chamber for pc really
What's your cooling fan speed? Should be low for pc
For the life of me I can't get the retraction settings right with this filament. Any tips?
How can I tell if I got swindled on amazon?
They slapped a label over the previous priline carbon fiber label and the spool itself has no indication that it is the superhard variant.
You used 260c nozzle and 90c with the standard CF-PC? What was your layer height and nozzle diameter? I've been printing this filament with a 0.6mm nozzle upon recommendations from similar products like carbonX which recommends a 0.6 nozzle at 0.35 layer height to prevent clogging and prevent the filament from pushing up against the nozzle. It seems like it works really well and makes for shorter print times. However, I find that the 270c recommendation made the filament so mushy and gummy that it wouldn't hold it's shape, especially with infill. I found that 235c nozzle and 85c bed holds the shape really well, but layer adhesion is questionable on thinner components, so I'm going to slowly increase the temps. I like the standard Priline CF-PC filament because it really prints so much better than regular PC filament (such as Polymaker PC). It holds its dimensions so much better yet is so much more flexible than competitors with much higher CF % which I like because it make for a much more reliable part. I am going to try your temps on a velocity stack that I have been refining. I'll let you know how it turns out, if you'd like?
I’ve printed a couple of spools of the standard CF-PC using 260/90 through a 0.4mm nozzle with great results. I’ve varied my layer heights over that time, but I find that 0.2mm works well with the 0.4mm nozzle. I’d love to hear about your results. Feel free to hit me up here or on social media (cs wilson prints).
Priline Pc-cf isn't true polycarbonate and you can actually print it with temperatures as low as PETG printing with it still looking great. It is a more "diluted" and "blended" version of polycarbonate. Although it looks great, don't expect it to have the same strength as other polycarbonate blends.
Any reason why you took the hotend off to replace the nozzle?
I've always found it easier to disassemble the hotend when I change the nozzle. It allows me to clean the entire filament and inspect the other parts.
What type of bed surface did you print the PolyCarb onto??
I use a spring steel, textured PEI surface.
Is your Voron printed in PC CF too?
Yes. I only have a retro-fitted Afterburner hotend assembly, though. I plan to convert my machine to a Switchwire at some point.
I've been operating under the impression that the nozzle should be changed with the machine heated up. Is that incorrect?
I rarely heat the nozzle to remove or replace it, but I know a lot of users do. The only time I work with a heated nozzle is when there was a leak and filament was in the threads.
@@CSWilsonPrints good to know. It's not exactly fun working with a 200° nozzle. Lol
Agreed. I only had to burn my fingers 3 or 4 times before I stopped do that.
Are we related? I'm a Wilson from Washington state.
Ugh that music. Really ruined it.
Sorry to hear that.
@@CSWilsonPrints it’s a scientific fact that jazz will ruin speakers! 😳
@@CSWilsonPrints Bah, I loved the jazz