Cheers! ha, ha, UK people would disagree about the accent 😀 but I know that I have a different way of speaking, moved around a lot when I was younger and I'm dual nationality 👍😀
@@puresim316nosimracingnolif3if you’re referring to testing fuses in the fuse box without removing them, there is a small risk of blowing the fuse in your meter if the circuit is switched on and above 10A. If in any doubt, you can disconnect the battery first or remove fuses individually. Cheers, Phil
I just bought a '95 Dodge Dakota with high hopes, and wanted to be sure before checking the fuses using a multimeter. The brake lights won't operate, so I'm moving up the line to locate the source of the difficulty. Other things aren't working as well (gas gauge, dash light, etc.), so while I'm in the fuse box, I'm going to mind everybody's business in there. The only thing wrong that doesn't bother me is the passenger's interior door handle. In order to open the door, the passenger has to roll down the window and operate the exterior door handle. I've decided that's part of the character, and I may not even fix it. lol Thanks for the tutorial.
Looked it up ad the Dodge Dakota looks like a nice truck! 👍 From your post, sounds like you have a good idea what you are doing but when multiple things stop working, it is often an earthing fault. Check at the rear lights to see if you are getting 12v to your brake lights, if you are, you can forget about the fuse. Agree, reaching out of the window to open the door from the outside, will just make the truck and you look more cool! 😎
This guy is nuts! Never put a continuity meter across a fuse that's installed. If the fuse it blown and you put a continuity meter across the terminals you could get all that current through the meter. Now if the circuit blew a 20A fuse then you could be trying to put over 20A through your meter. Bad idea. Better plan is to switch your meter to voltage and measure the voltage across the fuse. If you get zero volts then either the fuse is good or there is no power to fuse. It's sometimes a little harder but if you put one end of the probe on the ground terminal and the other on the fuse you should see 12V on one or both terminals. If you see 12V on both the fuse is good, if you only see 12V on one then the fuse is blown. If you don't get 12V on either then the circuit isn't powered (or you're doing it wrong). In that case it's best to best to check if you need to have the ignition on or something and try again.
Hi, thanks for you comment! I appreciate your point and encourage discussion! However, just a couple of things to add: 1) With ignition off, I can't think of any circuits on a car drawing 20A. If they were, your battery would be flat every time you came out to the car on a morning. 2) Most multimeters have an internal fuse to protect it. 3) I've been testing this way for 30yrs and never even had to change the internal fuse on my multimeter, let alone blown one up. Although what you said in your comment is "possible" it's obviously very unlikely to occur. 4) From my video: There is no faster way to quickly check all of the fuses, which is super handy if you aren't sure which fuse might be the problem. The continuity check across a fuse is 100%, if it beeps it is good, if it doesn't it isn't. There is no "it might be this" or "maybe that etc", which makes it a good check for people with varying level of experience. Anyway, hope that helps clarify why I showed how to do it the way I did. Cheers, Phil
No you don't. If your doing a continuity test. The meter supplying a small voltage from probe to probe. Only testing between the meter leads. It's not testing the whole circuit.
It is a way to Test Fuses but not Suggested or Recommended, Reason being in Continuity mode a small Voltage is being inserted inside a Circuit and that can cause Problems. If the Fuse is Removed From the Load Center, then Continuity can be Checked Safely, otherwise a Test Light in my opinion works best, or Resistance check, some People I have seen do not even Risk with the Resistance Check. I also agree, even on Multimeter Owners Manuals it specifically states to not use ‘Continuity’ on Live Circuits. i suggest using a Test Light or the Voltage method if Fuses Remain at the Load Center. Probably a good idea to update this Video.
Yep, that's correct. If your multimeter has the capability (and most do) usually, you need to switch the position where the red lead plugs into your multimeter, you should see another socket on the front of the meter where it plugs in. Then select "DC Amps" on your meter. You can then pull out a fuse and put the red lead into one of the exposed contacts (where the fuse used to be plugged in) and the black into the other. Then turn on whatever the fuse was powering (for example the radio) and you will see how many amps it draws. However, word of warning, the power is now travelling through your meter to power the circuit, so you can only test lower powered items in this way. On my meter it says "10amp" fused, so I can only remove 10A and smaller fuses and test the circuit without running the risk of blowing the fuse in my meter or damaging the meter. Hope this makes sense! If not, I don't have a video on it yet but I'm sure you will turn some up on TH-cam! Cheers, Phil
No, you don't need to disconnect the battery. Some people do prefer to pull the fuse out to test it though. If I have a lot of fuses to check (or I'm not sure which fuse is the problem), I check them in the fuse box as shown in the video but when you're doing this, make sure everything is turned off in the car and the ignition is off. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
You can check continuity of a fuse with the battery connected or not. Some people say it is actually safer to do it with the battery disconnected because it removes any risk of too much current going through your meter and damaging it (if testing the fuses in situation). Better get your battery charged asap, they don’t like being completely flat! Cheers, Phil
Most multimeters have an internal fuse, so worst case, you blow this fuse and need to replace it (hasn’t happened to me yet despite lots of testing like this!) or, if you are concerned You could pull the fuse out to test it on a bench or even better disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before doing the testing. Cheers, Phil
No it doesn’t and to be honest, it’s probably better if it isn’t on, that way there won’t be any electrical circuits that are using a significant amount of power. Cheers, Phil
Hi, do you have any power in the car at all? For example, interior light comes on when you open the door, headlights work when you flash them? If not, I would start at the battery. Assuming it's not completely dead, then you may have corrosion on the battery terminals, check and clean up both the positive and the negative. Also, check where the battery negative goes to the body of the car to make sure that looks ok. If this all looks ok and the problem isn't fixed, then it could be when you were testing the fuses, the earthing point you were using for the black lead wasn't good. If you have some lengths of cable, you can do a long length from the black lead all of the way to the battery, just to be 100% that the earth you are using is ok. Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
I haven't had too many problems with relays. Occasionally, the blinker unit for the indicators has failed and I popped a new one in. In fact, this is usually the easiest way to test a relay: Usually, if you suspect one to have failed, there will be others just like it in the fuse box, you can swap them over and that will tell you if the relay has failed. If you want to test a relay, there's actually a little tool that you can use to test relays. Here's an example of one: amzn.to/3Gh0jB9 Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@rhadycal7290 No, just make sure everything is switched off, ignition off etc. It's best if the car has been off and untouched for about 15mins as some things do run on a little bit after driving. The risk is, if something is powered up, the voltage goes through your meter. Most meters have a small internal fuse that would blow at this point. It's worth mentioning, I've done this type of test dozens of times and this has never happened to me but someone mentioned it in the comments so I thought you should be aware. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
This video would’ve been more effective if you didn’t have the music piped in. People want to learn from watching these videos they want to hear what you’re saying they don’t want to be distracted by the happy music playing in the background they want to concentrate on what you’re saying. The music was annoying.
I think what you're trying to say is that you didn't like the music! 😂 Don't worry about sugar coating it, saying you liked the content and all that blah blah! Get to the point, just tell me what you think man!
I really appreciate people making the effort to make an instructional video such as this, I really do. But every single one has music in the background. As if the one is in a casino and needs constant entertainment. I agree with the other comment, people click on this video for info, not a backing track. It's really annoying but then again everyone does it. It's still annoying though
Hi, do you mean there is no current to either side of the fuse? Sorry if you already know this but you can double check that you have 12v to the fuse by testing each side of the fuse to a known earth (normally the frame of the car, somewhere not painted like a door hinge bolt). So, when I'm doing the testing at 02:00 in the video, instead of testing across the fuse with the two probes, just touch the red probe to one side of the fuse and the black one to earth. Then repeat the process and test the other side of the fuse in the same way. Instead of having the meter set to continuity, make sure it is set to 12v DC. Also, make sure the probes are plugged into the meter correctly, you can see where they should be plugged in at 01:57 in the video. It's very unusual to lose the 12v feed to the fuse, so it's worth double checking this. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
![How To Test and Diagnose Relays and Wiring [4 & 5 Pin]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-DwV0HLsE4/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Test and Diagnose Relays and Wiring [4 & 5 Pin]](/img/tr.png)
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
EXCELLENT Video! I always pulled them out to test, didn't even know you could test them while installed. What a time saver! Thanks!
Thanks very much! Yes, when I discovered the fuses could be tested like that I felt the same! 👍 Cheers, Phil
By far the easiest to understand on all of TH-cam period you have a new subscriber and thank you
Sir, thank you for sharing this! Very useful skill and tips!
very well done!!! easy to understand and slow enough that a new electric guy can use the info!!
Thanks! Great that the video helped you 👍😎 cheers, Phil
Simple no nonsense video that makes it easy for all to understand.
Thanks a lot @frankmossucco7098 really appreciate it! 👍😎
Great video! I paid a guy $25 to check my fuses a few years ago. I wished I knew it was this easy back then Thanks
That’s not a bad price, you pay for the time required but hopefully you’ll be able to do it next time! 👍
Very good video, thank you, straight and to the point, very easy to follow, covered all the essential points.
Thanks very much! 🙌😊
That was a well explained tutorial on how to test.I have book marked this for later reference. Thanks.
Thanks! I do that too, when I come across some info that I know will come in useful in the future... 👍cheers, Phil
I learn something new from your videos every time.
Thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video! I often learn something new when researching and doing the work too! 👍
Cool. Thank you for the demo! You sound like a Beatle.
Cheers! ha, ha, UK people would disagree about the accent 😀 but I know that I have a different way of speaking, moved around a lot when I was younger and I'm dual nationality 👍😀
Very easy to follow video
Thanks! 😊
Very useful! Thank you for sharing this, huge help for starting guy like me.
Glad you liked the video! Happy to share and hopefully, you'll feel better prepared to do some testing! Cheers, Phil
Thank you for teaching us!
you're welcome, glad you find the videos helpful! 👍
Is it safe mate
@@puresim316nosimracingnolif3if you’re referring to testing fuses in the fuse box without removing them, there is a small risk of blowing the fuse in your meter if the circuit is switched on and above 10A. If in any doubt, you can disconnect the battery first or remove fuses individually. Cheers, Phil
Thanks for the great video. Cheers
Thanks! 😀
I just bought a '95 Dodge Dakota with high hopes, and wanted to be sure before checking the fuses using a multimeter. The brake lights won't operate, so I'm moving up the line to locate the source of the difficulty. Other things aren't working as well (gas gauge, dash light, etc.), so while I'm in the fuse box, I'm going to mind everybody's business in there. The only thing wrong that doesn't bother me is the passenger's interior door handle. In order to open the door, the passenger has to roll down the window and operate the exterior door handle. I've decided that's part of the character, and I may not even fix it. lol Thanks for the tutorial.
Looked it up ad the Dodge Dakota looks like a nice truck! 👍 From your post, sounds like you have a good idea what you are doing but when multiple things stop working, it is often an earthing fault. Check at the rear lights to see if you are getting 12v to your brake lights, if you are, you can forget about the fuse. Agree, reaching out of the window to open the door from the outside, will just make the truck and you look more cool! 😎
wow amazing big sets
Thanks! I think... lol!
Thank you
You're welcome! 😊
Very good. Thanks
Thanks! 😎
This guy is nuts! Never put a continuity meter across a fuse that's installed. If the fuse it blown and you put a continuity meter across the terminals you could get all that current through the meter. Now if the circuit blew a 20A fuse then you could be trying to put over 20A through your meter. Bad idea. Better plan is to switch your meter to voltage and measure the voltage across the fuse. If you get zero volts then either the fuse is good or there is no power to fuse. It's sometimes a little harder but if you put one end of the probe on the ground terminal and the other on the fuse you should see 12V on one or both terminals. If you see 12V on both the fuse is good, if you only see 12V on one then the fuse is blown. If you don't get 12V on either then the circuit isn't powered (or you're doing it wrong). In that case it's best to best to check if you need to have the ignition on or something and try again.
Hi, thanks for you comment! I appreciate your point and encourage discussion! However, just a couple of things to add: 1) With ignition off, I can't think of any circuits on a car drawing 20A. If they were, your battery would be flat every time you came out to the car on a morning. 2) Most multimeters have an internal fuse to protect it. 3) I've been testing this way for 30yrs and never even had to change the internal fuse on my multimeter, let alone blown one up. Although what you said in your comment is "possible" it's obviously very unlikely to occur. 4) From my video: There is no faster way to quickly check all of the fuses, which is super handy if you aren't sure which fuse might be the problem. The continuity check across a fuse is 100%, if it beeps it is good, if it doesn't it isn't. There is no "it might be this" or "maybe that etc", which makes it a good check for people with varying level of experience. Anyway, hope that helps clarify why I showed how to do it the way I did. Cheers, Phil
That’s how I do it and have been doing it for 20 years and never had any problems
No you don't. If your doing a continuity test. The meter supplying a small voltage from probe to probe. Only testing between the meter leads. It's not testing the whole circuit.
It is a way to Test Fuses but not Suggested or Recommended, Reason being in Continuity mode a small Voltage is being inserted inside a Circuit and that can cause Problems.
If the Fuse is Removed From the Load Center, then Continuity can be Checked Safely, otherwise a Test Light in my opinion works best, or Resistance check, some People I have seen do not even Risk with the Resistance Check.
I also agree, even on Multimeter Owners Manuals it specifically states to not use ‘Continuity’ on Live Circuits.
i suggest using a Test Light or the Voltage method if Fuses Remain at the Load Center.
Probably a good idea to update this Video.
Where do I find the ground terminal to put the Black Cable on ? :)
Awesome thanks
you're welcome! 👍
Thanks man
The exposed part of the fuses(in the back) for mine are too tiny. I don’t even think my multimeter is making contact. I have to pull them out.
Ah that’s a pain! I suppose there are lots of different brands and some have better access than others 😔 cheers, Phil
I don't get any voltage to my EFI3 fuse. I unplugged the fuse and there's no power to the two sides where the fuse fits in. Where do I go from here?
What do you do if there's no current coming to 4 or 3 fuses?
Do I need to disconnect the battery sounds like it may be important
No, I have done this kind of work lots of times and never needed to disconnect the battery to test or replace a fuse. Hope that helps!
Can i also check its Amperage, with multimeter right?
Yep, that's correct. If your multimeter has the capability (and most do) usually, you need to switch the position where the red lead plugs into your multimeter, you should see another socket on the front of the meter where it plugs in. Then select "DC Amps" on your meter. You can then pull out a fuse and put the red lead into one of the exposed contacts (where the fuse used to be plugged in) and the black into the other. Then turn on whatever the fuse was powering (for example the radio) and you will see how many amps it draws. However, word of warning, the power is now travelling through your meter to power the circuit, so you can only test lower powered items in this way. On my meter it says "10amp" fused, so I can only remove 10A and smaller fuses and test the circuit without running the risk of blowing the fuse in my meter or damaging the meter. Hope this makes sense! If not, I don't have a video on it yet but I'm sure you will turn some up on TH-cam! Cheers, Phil
Do i need to remove the battery head to check my fuse
No, you don't need to disconnect the battery. Some people do prefer to pull the fuse out to test it though. If I have a lot of fuses to check (or I'm not sure which fuse is the problem), I check them in the fuse box as shown in the video but when you're doing this, make sure everything is turned off in the car and the ignition is off. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Do I disconnect the battery? Also my battery is dead
You can check continuity of a fuse with the battery connected or not. Some people say it is actually safer to do it with the battery disconnected because it removes any risk of too much current going through your meter and damaging it (if testing the fuses in situation). Better get your battery charged asap, they don’t like being completely flat! Cheers, Phil
What if it's a fuse that always has power to it?
Most multimeters have an internal fuse, so worst case, you blow this fuse and need to replace it (hasn’t happened to me yet despite lots of testing like this!) or, if you are concerned You could pull the fuse out to test it on a bench or even better disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before doing the testing. Cheers, Phil
Does the car need to be on to check fuse?
No it doesn’t and to be honest, it’s probably better if it isn’t on, that way there won’t be any electrical circuits that are using a significant amount of power. Cheers, Phil
Tested all my fuses I was not getting any power to them, any clue why this is
Hi, do you have any power in the car at all? For example, interior light comes on when you open the door, headlights work when you flash them? If not, I would start at the battery. Assuming it's not completely dead, then you may have corrosion on the battery terminals, check and clean up both the positive and the negative. Also, check where the battery negative goes to the body of the car to make sure that looks ok. If this all looks ok and the problem isn't fixed, then it could be when you were testing the fuses, the earthing point you were using for the black lead wasn't good. If you have some lengths of cable, you can do a long length from the black lead all of the way to the battery, just to be 100% that the earth you are using is ok. Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide found the problem it was the actual fuse box, I had to solder it for temporary fix
@@Shineyhero Oh wow, unusual problem! Well done finding it and for the temp fix 👍 Cheers, Phil
What about Realys?
I haven't had too many problems with relays. Occasionally, the blinker unit for the indicators has failed and I popped a new one in. In fact, this is usually the easiest way to test a relay: Usually, if you suspect one to have failed, there will be others just like it in the fuse box, you can swap them over and that will tell you if the relay has failed. If you want to test a relay, there's actually a little tool that you can use to test relays. Here's an example of one: amzn.to/3Gh0jB9 Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Would I have to remove my car battery to test my fuses ?
@rhadycal7290 No, just make sure everything is switched off, ignition off etc. It's best if the car has been off and untouched for about 15mins as some things do run on a little bit after driving. The risk is, if something is powered up, the voltage goes through your meter. Most meters have a small internal fuse that would blow at this point. It's worth mentioning, I've done this type of test dozens of times and this has never happened to me but someone mentioned it in the comments so I thought you should be aware. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
This video would’ve been more effective if you didn’t have the music piped in. People want to learn from watching these videos they want to hear what you’re saying they don’t want to be distracted by the happy music playing in the background they want to concentrate on what you’re saying. The music was annoying.
I think what you're trying to say is that you didn't like the music! 😂 Don't worry about sugar coating it, saying you liked the content and all that blah blah! Get to the point, just tell me what you think man!
I really appreciate people making the effort to make an instructional video such as this, I really do. But every single one has music in the background. As if the one is in a casino and needs constant entertainment.
I agree with the other comment, people click on this video for info, not a backing track.
It's really annoying but then again everyone does it. It's still annoying though
VERY THOROUGH.
Thanks! 😎
What do you do if there's no current coming to 4 or 3 fuses?
Hi, do you mean there is no current to either side of the fuse? Sorry if you already know this but you can double check that you have 12v to the fuse by testing each side of the fuse to a known earth (normally the frame of the car, somewhere not painted like a door hinge bolt). So, when I'm doing the testing at 02:00 in the video, instead of testing across the fuse with the two probes, just touch the red probe to one side of the fuse and the black one to earth. Then repeat the process and test the other side of the fuse in the same way. Instead of having the meter set to continuity, make sure it is set to 12v DC. Also, make sure the probes are plugged into the meter correctly, you can see where they should be plugged in at 01:57 in the video. It's very unusual to lose the 12v feed to the fuse, so it's worth double checking this. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil