BE sure youre subscribed so you don't miss any videos! Also listed below are the torque specs you will need to know: Wheel Bearing Bolts(triple squares) 90 NM +90° Axle Bolt 200NM + 180° Shock Absorber Bolt 70NM + 180° Transverse Link Bolt 70NM + 180° Tie Rod Link 70NM + 180° Trailing Arm Bolts 70NM + 180°(torque LAST and suspension UNLOADED) Also remember all those bolts are technically one time use!
Huge amount of respect for your honesty! When you mess up or forget something you are honest with us watching, lots of other people would edit the video show you plugging the cables in, it shows how even a professional can forget something and the most important thing is how you handle the mistake… thank you for being real with us!
Basic rule for major boltage... always push down not pull up... Your face (if it slips) and your back will thank you. Also, by pushing down instead you are adding body weight and its easier.
@@RyanRiopel Nope, Push down with dominant hand, other hand on the business end so you can do both if needed. Never had it not work (in my case, push down with the right, pulling with the left to apply the leverage). Its enough force with a standard 1/2" breaker bar to snap off a lug bolt (much more torque than my Milwaukee M18 Fuel big impact gun), so plenty of force.
I've changed a ride height sensor recently on my S3, it has sensors on all four corners instead of only two. I took a chance on a cheapo one that I got for $30 CDN, shipped. Figured, hey, at that price, if it's crap, it will have been worth the try. Since those sensor are simple, basically a Hall effect sensor and a knuckle joint, i couldn't understand why they cost $300+ from the factory. Well, my cheapo sensor works A1, VCDS readings are perfect (rate, values, height). So, while im generally a guy that likes to stick to OEM parts, if you happen to break a ride height sensor, give the cheap ones a go, you may be pleasantly surprised!
Sadly you proberly wont see this but another diagnose a bad wheel bearing is while spinning the wheel place a hand on the spring all vibrations will travel to it, works most time learned from a vw tech loong ago
If in the rust belt, add half an hour + a slide hammer and/or hub tamer, and then apply anti-seize to the entire mating surface of the knuckle before installing the new hub so you won't have to fight it the next time!
I replace my hubs in pairs. Just did the front ones on my 13 Jetta TDI. Only the front driver was bad but changed both front. I will go ahead and change the rear in a few weeks just to keep them wearing the same.
I love your tutorials Charles thank you so much for putting this together. I just bought a 2019 all track that this applies to should be several thousand miles before I have to worry about this job but thank you so much anyways.
seems that if you have a FWD car several of these steps dont apply. because you dont have a drive shaft in the rear. so i assume that you would have access to the bearing bolts without undoing anything with the shocks or knuckle.
Charles: "When you put the triple square in the bolt make sure it's in all the way!" Me after stripping out a half shaft bolt and spending 2 hours trying to take it off with a vice grip, hammering in oversized Allen Hex/TorX bits, and finally success with a screw extractor: "No sh1t Sherlock!" BTW - using paint splotches to mark bit depth is clever! Going to do that to all my triple square bits. Great tip there Charles!
I feel like there'd be a lot of subject matter to cover for a mechanic-themed metal band. Busted knuckles, rusted bolts, broken tools, hard to reach stuff, and of course, one-time-use fasteners. 🤘
Funny enough out of the blue last week I got volunteered to do a rear wheel bearing on my MIL's Cadillac ATS. Thankfully it was fairly easy, plenty of access to the unit besring bolts without removing any arms. However her's sure was seized fairly good in the spindle. Threw on an old rotor on it flipped opposite of normal orientation, tightened the lug nuts on it, and beat it out with a mini sledge. Slide hammer would have been cleaner but didnt have one and needed it done right then.
If only this video was made 3 months ago I would have an idea of changing the bearing, I have a SEAT Leon (which is pretty much the same thing as the Golf) and gosh! loosing the center piece was an endeavor. Thank you.
Man where was this video when I needed it previous owner had stripped all the lug stud bolts and I couldn’t get them to work by retapping so I grabbed some random wheel studs from a Kia and hammered them through my wheel bearing like a normal car now 😂 BMW tings
Replaced the rear wheel bearing on my brother’s Toyota Venza, was super super easy. The bolts that hold the wheel bearing to the knuckle are accessed by 4 holes through the hub face. Didn’t even need to crawl under the car
Did my front wheel bearings on my Leon - very similar procedure, but but both my bearings needed some strong 'persuasion' living in UK where we salt the roads!
Thanks for the video, I always learn something. I typically use the thinnest smear of grease on previously rusted surfaces, (10:43 ) after knocking off that rust. Am I overthinking this?
Wow thats a clean set up compared to what im used to! Dont know many Golf/Passats i have struggling with undoing the triple square caliper bolts because of the sheer amount of rust and alloy corrosion!
Just did the same thing on a 2013 Tiguan with about the same mileage. Nearly the exact same job (only difference is the strut bolt location). Same bearing was the issue too. Nice video
Just a quick note about the hardware. I have never use new bolts on any vw and never have a problem. Here in South America is not easy to find or buy those torque to yield bolts on the dealership
Charles do a video on the Taos,,,Espically all the different connectors and such for example the horse shoe clips for the turbo plumbing and the various squeeze conectors.
I think FCPEuro did a video on this too. They worked around the suspension instead of partially disassembling it. I assume you went by the book, but do you see any issues with their method? Aside from it being harder to seat the triple squares into the hub bolts? The FCP method is tough if you have a really seized hub assembly and need to use a slide hammer, I assume, with less wiggle room in the bolts.
hey man, i'm having a bizarre issue with my mk7 gti. I am getting a LOUD creaking/squeaking from my front left. It happens pretty much 24/7. I hear it the most when i'm at low speeds moving around. I can hear it coming to stop and going from a stop. The only time I don't hear it is when i'm at a certain speed and higher. Id say around 10-15mph+. My friend said it should be my camber mount bearings. 2 out of the 4 shocks were blown so I bought different coilovers and that didn't do it. Next we thought it was the ball joint. Replaced that, still happening. The only 2 things left I would think it could be is inner/outer tie rod or worse..steering rack. I doubt it's the front sway bushings, theyre only a year old. Can't be end links either because I had them off temp. and the noise was still there. Steering feels looser but the car doesnt seem to be pulling.. I don't think anyway. But now I think there is a slight vibration..? Car is unstable under hard braking What do you think it is? th-cam.com/video/Z3uESU3hEiE/w-d-xo.html Nails on a chalkboard.. Have you heard something like this before?
@@HumbleMechanic always the way when you have multiple things. Either will happy when we do see it as there isn't many detailed builds when it come to vr6 turbos.
Awesome video! Is this setup similar on a mk6? I’m getting a sound from about 65-70 on and I suspect the right rear wheel bearing. Looking forward to the un -sadness on the yellow R
I have an R just like yours. The one-touch up/down function has stopped working after I followed your powered side mirrors video, which by the way is the best set of instructions video here. I believe everything is connected correctly as everything else works fine. The window goes up and down just fine, so long as I keep the button pressed for the way up/down. I tried calibrating by using the hold switch button for 5 seconds (even 10 and 15 seconds) after bringing all the way up and all the way down but that has no effect. I checked the passenger side group in OBDEleven and it finds no fault. So was wondering if you or anyone here could give me some suggestions? Only the front passenger window is behaving this way. Also, the powered side mirrors also work great and so does the side mirror down on reverse. Wish I lived close to you man. You would be my mechanic as you do excellent, delicate work on these cars. Thanks.
Go down all the way, then hold it down for 1-2 seconds, go all the way up, hold up 1-2 seconds. It will fix it. If not try again! You would get a fault otherwise
@@BeterrThat didn't work. I also compared live data between front driver's side and front Passenger side in OBDEleven and see no difference in output. Must be something different.
Once you run the window back up, you have to cycle the button up twice for it to adapt - per the owners manual. Only cycling it once won't work. You'll hear it click each time you cycle it. After the second cycle, it should work as intended. If it doesn't, then you may have another problem.
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 Tried that and it didn't work. I brought window all the way up then released the switch and then held it for 5 seconds, heard a click. Did the same for down but I didn't hear a click on down. Did this twice using both the driver's switch for the FR door window and also did it twice using the actual switch on the FR door but no success. This started occurring after I had retrofitted the power fold mirrors going off of HumbleMechanic's video on this channel. Could not connecting the window switch cable on the FR door switch have caused this? Because, I would think if it wasn't connected correctly then the switch wouldn't work at all but I'm throwing this out there. Thanks.
When I did the front wheel bearings on my 09 Genesis sedan I remember spending like 30mins trying to get the damn bearings out of the hub with a slide hammer...I got fed up looked at my brother and picked up the 5 pound sledge and said "well we DEFINENTLY are gonna need to get it out after this..." and started swinging 😂
I was wondering. Wouldn't it make sense to change both of the rear wheel bearings? I mean the have done the same mileage. If one is going bad there's a chance/risk that the other one is going to fail in near future.
Did change a wheel bearing on a Golf MK 3. The other side did not fail - not even 100.000 miles later. Bearings can be very different due to manufacturing tolerances. And VW does not always use top quality parts.
Hi Charles, Love your videos... I hope you can advise me.. I have 2015 VW Tiguan Mk1 2 0TDI 120,000 miles. I'm experiencing a vibration/wobble through the seat when applying the brakes at 50-75mph, most noticeable when descending a highway ramp. The ABS sometimes activates for a couple of seconds and then the abs, asc, tyre pressure warning, and electronic park break warning ⚠️ lights all come on. There isn't really any noise I can hear when driving, if I'm being really picky possibly a extremely slight tyre noise. I'm running out of options, been to VW three times for $200 diagnostic sessions they say they can't replicate the issue but can see the stored fault codes, namely rear abs wheel speed sensor and all they have advised is wheel balancing and tyres. I have had the wheel alignment and balancing done, and fitted all new Conti tyres but still the problem persists. Any advise? Is wheel bearing a possibility? Thanks Brian
Are these the same part numbers on mk7 and mk8? I have a basically brand new one from when I thought it needed to be replaced on my mk7. It didn’t. Now I have a mk8 and know I’ll need a wheel bearing eventually lol
Thats a good idea, I do something similar to what is shown in the video. Instead of a long screw drive I use a crow bar. Not only does this transmit the sound bit it also transmits some of the vibration as well. At least when I have it resting in the engine compartment on a pulley or water pump. I can feel a vibration as i hold the crow bar. Best of both worlds.
- My 2019 Focus, bad front wheel bearing, start to make noises just by driving, like the disc is warp, when i press the brake, a big squeaking noise, then disappear for a few km, also sometimes making a turn i hear a squeaking noise. - No play in the bearing, spinning by hand i ear the disc touching the pad like is warp. - I change discs, pads and upgrade the brake hose to stainless steel, still the same. After i change the wheel bearing, everything is back to normal.
Per le plastiche usi : " Gummy pflege stift", o altro prodotto per rinnovare gomme e plastiche. Le plastiche e le gomme ringrazieranno. Mi riferisco ad esempio,al carter nero davanti al cristallo anteriore. Gli UV, sono micidiali per le plastiche. A proposito le cuffie interne ed esterne delle ruote ant (cuffie), come stanno ?. Se le cambierà , eviterà di rovinare i giunti e i semiassi. Brava. Io ho una GOLF 4 GTI TDI 150 Exclusive.
Hey Charles I could use some expert knowledge. TLDR: Is the Gen 1 2.0 tsi EA888 engine affected by the audi piston ring recall? I recently came into the possession of a 2009 vw passat cc, engine code CCTA, trans code KGU, make 357 (passat cc). 145k miles. Your videos have been really helpful for me getting lots of work done on this car. The CCTA engine code is one of the 2.0 tsi ea888 gen 1 designations. I saw someone online saying that the Gen 1 engines had a problem with the low friction piston rings. According to the post the rings are bad from the factory and cause excessive oil consumption. However, I saw someone else say that this only applies to the audi version of the gen one 2.0T Tsi engines. But if it's the same engine then would it not have the same issue? My engine does not currently consume oil. But I plan on doing stage 2 tuning to the car and want to know if ill need upgraded pistons and connecting rods so I don't run into reliability issues down the road. I'm really glad I got this car, because it has been immensely fun to work on, and your channel is fucking awesome. Make more engine teardown videos!
Yes. i got a 2018 Skoda. Changed the left foreward bearing. After that the steering is not straight(syncronized), the car weer off to the left when i center the steering.
Freaking awesome, respect. And for all those keyboard warriors bashing this guy. Let me see you do better or anything even remotely close to this level of build.
I have a question unrelated to this video but maybe someone can answer for me. My 2015 golf 1.8 takes a few seconds to start it runs good but when I come to a stop it stutters (doesn't stall). One shop already tested fuel pressure at both fuel pumps and the readings were good, changed cam sensor, pcv, diverter valve and still does the same. They then pressure tested engine compression and came up with 145/140/140/140. They told me I needed a new engine. Just need a second opinion if that is the case, odometer reads 50,200 miles. Thanks in advance.
I got to say... I hate vw aproach with single use bolts... every time i need to replace something ends up costing more in bolts than the part... and found every time i tried to second use is hard to tourq it...
Hey Charles I been getting a “12 battery system low” light on my infotainment screen but I got good voltage from alternator and battery and autozone says it’s fine in all regards but I get the message on my screen a couple times a week. What could cause this?
Ive never seen that except when the voltage is low due to a battery, alternator, fuse, or the cable. You probably need to see what the voltage reading in the cluster is with a scan tool.
That hasn't really been my experience. They seem to be about the same. I think it may even be the sam bearings going back to MK5 and the MK4/B5 press in weren't great either.
If you are ever in New Jersey I will put money 💰 in your pocket for working on my vw or audi tt mk 2 vr6 just let me know or I can drive down to you 😂😊
second ! on VAG cars especialy on unit bearing like this one, u dont need to take the whole knuckle down, just unbolt the bearing,take it out, send the new bearing and DONE!. i'm from europe, and i never took the knuckle down unless like mk4 you need to use hydraulic press.
Potholes on Mk4 were instant bearing mortal wound we heard. someone in neighborhood just found their brake booster had a rust caused pinhole at the bottom of their 2004 VW, causing air to get in the engine and causing lean running clamping the hose at the manifold verified the issue,
That look better("Rust"Free) then the New ones at show room here in Finland. How in the hell did that wheel bearing get so bad already? ...There don seam to be even dust there, man i don't get it! ...RMA that shit! Yeah i would go and make lottery ticket, if one day a bearing would come out even with just two hands, but no. ...it's hammer time or press.. everyday and night..
price things out when its comes to stuff like this. wheel bearings are cheap. mechanic's time is expensive. depending on the car having a mechanic replace all 4 straight away might be a cheaper option than having him test, find and replace 1 bearing at a time
I’ve watch both and it’s hard to see someone upset. But hope she’ll be better soon. I’ve been in a romance scam for a few months fully knowing it to be a scam and playing along, they don’t have compassion for their victims.
BE sure youre subscribed so you don't miss any videos! Also listed below are the torque specs you will need to know:
Wheel Bearing Bolts(triple squares) 90 NM +90°
Axle Bolt 200NM + 180°
Shock Absorber Bolt 70NM + 180°
Transverse Link Bolt 70NM + 180°
Tie Rod Link 70NM + 180°
Trailing Arm Bolts 70NM + 180°(torque LAST and suspension UNLOADED)
Also remember all those bolts are technically one time use!
Hey i have an mk5 jetta that hasn't had power steering since I replaced the front right knuckle and bearing. Any idea what I messed up?
man that snap-on pole jack was the secret star in this video. that piece of equipment is a life saver 👍🏻
Huge amount of respect for your honesty! When you mess up or forget something you are honest with us watching, lots of other people would edit the video show you plugging the cables in, it shows how even a professional can forget something and the most important thing is how you handle the mistake… thank you for being real with us!
Basic rule for major boltage... always push down not pull up... Your face (if it slips) and your back will thank you. Also, by pushing down instead you are adding body weight and its easier.
That's great until you run out of body weight. Then you have to pull
@@RyanRiopel Nope, Push down with dominant hand, other hand on the business end so you can do both if needed. Never had it not work (in my case, push down with the right, pulling with the left to apply the leverage). Its enough force with a standard 1/2" breaker bar to snap off a lug bolt (much more torque than my Milwaukee M18 Fuel big impact gun), so plenty of force.
Correct!
I felt the back pain for him watching that!
He’s a little guy, too😢
Even easier with a longer breaker bar. I've got one 900mm long. Nothing has yet failed to yield.
for the last 180 degrees, can also use an impact (just mark 12 o'clock on your socket before giving it the beans)
I've changed a ride height sensor recently on my S3, it has sensors on all four corners instead of only two. I took a chance on a cheapo one that I got for $30 CDN, shipped. Figured, hey, at that price, if it's crap, it will have been worth the try. Since those sensor are simple, basically a Hall effect sensor and a knuckle joint, i couldn't understand why they cost $300+ from the factory. Well, my cheapo sensor works A1, VCDS readings are perfect (rate, values, height). So, while im generally a guy that likes to stick to OEM parts, if you happen to break a ride height sensor, give the cheap ones a go, you may be pleasantly surprised!
That’s awesome
You are a true craftsman and also an excellent teacher! Your thorough explanations are both informative and entertaining. Thank you!
Sadly you proberly wont see this but another diagnose a bad wheel bearing is while spinning the wheel place a hand on the spring all vibrations will travel to it, works most time learned from a vw tech loong ago
Why would you assume I won’t see it?
If in the rust belt, add half an hour + a slide hammer and/or hub tamer, and then apply anti-seize to the entire mating surface of the knuckle before installing the new hub so you won't have to fight it the next time!
In my case adding a torch and sawzall to get the damn thing out (on my MK5) lol.
Yeah this would never EVER go this smoothly here in Ontario, hub tamer is definitely the right method here 😆
@@spinnettigoing through the same on my mk5 rn i’m hoping i can get it with a torch and BFH, did you just cut the mating surface?
I replace my hubs in pairs. Just did the front ones on my 13 Jetta TDI. Only the front driver was bad but changed both front. I will go ahead and change the rear in a few weeks just to keep them wearing the same.
Great job Charles
Yup, snapped my ride height sensor clean in half when I did my suspension. Heloooooo glue.
Keep up all the great VAG content! ❤❤
I luv VAG
I love your tutorials Charles thank you so much for putting this together. I just bought a 2019 all track that this applies to should be several thousand miles before I have to worry about this job but thank you so much anyways.
i like the concept of the triple square, just not how shallow it is.
Yea you got to be really careful
Perfect timing! I have a bad bearing on my Q5 I'm trying to diagnose. Thanks for the amazing videos!
Super helpful ! Extraordinary detail !! I learned lots !!! Thanks mate 👊🏼 !!!! Much appreciated !!!!!
seems that if you have a FWD car several of these steps dont apply. because you dont have a drive shaft in the rear. so i assume that you would have access to the bearing bolts without undoing anything with the shocks or knuckle.
Charles: "When you put the triple square in the bolt make sure it's in all the way!"
Me after stripping out a half shaft bolt and spending 2 hours trying to take it off with a vice grip, hammering in oversized Allen Hex/TorX bits, and finally success with a screw extractor: "No sh1t Sherlock!"
BTW - using paint splotches to mark bit depth is clever! Going to do that to all my triple square bits. Great tip there Charles!
My favorite album from One Time Use Hardware is "While We're In There"
HAHAHHAHAH
I feel like there'd be a lot of subject matter to cover for a mechanic-themed metal band. Busted knuckles, rusted bolts, broken tools, hard to reach stuff, and of course, one-time-use fasteners. 🤘
Hahahha
Funny enough out of the blue last week I got volunteered to do a rear wheel bearing on my MIL's Cadillac ATS. Thankfully it was fairly easy, plenty of access to the unit besring bolts without removing any arms. However her's sure was seized fairly good in the spindle. Threw on an old rotor on it flipped opposite of normal orientation, tightened the lug nuts on it, and beat it out with a mini sledge. Slide hammer would have been cleaner but didnt have one and needed it done right then.
Good to hear the yellow R will ride again soon!💛
Love your work man.
I appreciate that!
Hi,im new to this channel.I like the way you show and explain step by step the things you do.Keep up the good work man 👍.I already subscribe 🙂👍.
If only this video was made 3 months ago I would have an idea of changing the bearing, I have a SEAT Leon (which is pretty much the same thing as the Golf) and gosh! loosing the center piece was an endeavor. Thank you.
"Single Use Bolt"
Title of your VAG Tape!
Man where was this video when I needed it previous owner had stripped all the lug stud bolts and I couldn’t get them to work by retapping so I grabbed some random wheel studs from a Kia and hammered them through my wheel bearing like a normal car now 😂 BMW tings
This video makes me glad I daily a 30 year old Camry. 262k miles and not a single issue with wheel bearing….or literally anything else.
Replaced the rear wheel bearing on my brother’s Toyota Venza, was super super easy. The bolts that hold the wheel bearing to the knuckle are accessed by 4 holes through the hub face. Didn’t even need to crawl under the car
Did my front wheel bearings on my Leon - very similar procedure, but but both my bearings needed some strong 'persuasion' living in UK where we salt the roads!
Such a joy to watch your videos!
Thanks for the video, I always learn something. I typically use the thinnest smear of grease on previously rusted surfaces, (10:43 ) after knocking off that rust. Am I overthinking this?
Wow thats a clean set up compared to what im used to! Dont know many Golf/Passats i have struggling with undoing the triple square caliper bolts because of the sheer amount of rust and alloy corrosion!
Not sure where you from but in denmark you will never see them this rustfree😂
@@abekat15 😂 Denmark is pretty coastal I suppose. I'm from the North Welsh coast, every car here is red underneath 😂
Hi Charles, excellent tutorial once again just need to do one for the front now.
In all my years I never knew about wheel hangers! That will be useful.
Just did the same thing on a 2013 Tiguan with about the same mileage. Nearly the exact same job (only difference is the strut bolt location). Same bearing was the issue too. Nice video
Just a quick note about the hardware. I have never use new bolts on any vw and never have a problem. Here in South America is not easy to find or buy those torque to yield bolts on the dealership
Reminds me i need to do my wheel bearings 😂
Huzzah! Great video as always :)
more spicy seventh please collaborations with Deutschland auto parts also hilarious.
MK7 still is a little off, but Paul will be here this week for a different collab.
Charles do a video on the Taos,,,Espically all the different connectors and such for example the horse shoe clips for the turbo plumbing and the various squeeze conectors.
I think FCPEuro did a video on this too. They worked around the suspension instead of partially disassembling it. I assume you went by the book, but do you see any issues with their method? Aside from it being harder to seat the triple squares into the hub bolts?
The FCP method is tough if you have a really seized hub assembly and need to use a slide hammer, I assume, with less wiggle room in the bolts.
I was wondering how is the audio system that came with the golf r, like the bass and the clarity of the sound
7.5 is not bad. Mk8 a lot of people complain about
hey man, i'm having a bizarre issue with my mk7 gti. I am getting a LOUD creaking/squeaking from my front left. It happens pretty much 24/7. I hear it the most when i'm at low speeds moving around. I can hear it coming to stop and going from a stop. The only time I don't hear it is when i'm at a certain speed and higher. Id say around 10-15mph+. My friend said it should be my camber mount bearings. 2 out of the 4 shocks were blown so I bought different coilovers and that didn't do it. Next we thought it was the ball joint. Replaced that, still happening. The only 2 things left I would think it could be is inner/outer tie rod or worse..steering rack. I doubt it's the front sway bushings, theyre only a year old. Can't be end links either because I had them off temp. and the noise was still there.
Steering feels looser but the car doesnt seem to be pulling.. I don't think anyway.
But now I think there is a slight vibration..?
Car is unstable under hard braking
What do you think it is?
th-cam.com/video/Z3uESU3hEiE/w-d-xo.html
Nails on a chalkboard..
Have you heard something like this before?
Nice how to, bearings can be a pain to find 👍🏻👍🏻
Hope to see turbo 32 stuff again soon ❤
That will depend on timing for the yellow car! Im still not sure how we are going to film it. Step by step, or like a 5 part series.
@@HumbleMechanic always the way when you have multiple things. Either will happy when we do see it as there isn't many detailed builds when it come to vr6 turbos.
Awesome video! Is this setup similar on a mk6? I’m getting a sound from about 65-70 on and I suspect the right rear wheel bearing. Looking forward to the un -sadness on the yellow R
I have an R just like yours. The one-touch up/down function has stopped working after I followed your powered side mirrors video, which by the way is the best set of instructions video here. I believe everything is connected correctly as everything else works fine. The window goes up and down just fine, so long as I keep the button pressed for the way up/down. I tried calibrating by using the hold switch button for 5 seconds (even 10 and 15 seconds) after bringing all the way up and all the way down but that has no effect. I checked the passenger side group in OBDEleven and it finds no fault. So was wondering if you or anyone here could give me some suggestions? Only the front passenger window is behaving this way. Also, the powered side mirrors also work great and so does the side mirror down on reverse. Wish I lived close to you man. You would be my mechanic as you do excellent, delicate work on these cars. Thanks.
Go down all the way, then hold it down for 1-2 seconds, go all the way up, hold up 1-2 seconds. It will fix it. If not try again! You would get a fault otherwise
@@BeterrThat didn't work. I also compared live data between front driver's side and front Passenger side in OBDEleven and see no difference in output. Must be something different.
Once you run the window back up, you have to cycle the button up twice for it to adapt - per the owners manual. Only cycling it once won't work.
You'll hear it click each time you cycle it. After the second cycle, it should work as intended. If it doesn't, then you may have another problem.
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 Tried that and it didn't work. I brought window all the way up then released the switch and then held it for 5 seconds, heard a click. Did the same for down but I didn't hear a click on down. Did this twice using both the driver's switch for the FR door window and also did it twice using the actual switch on the FR door but no success. This started occurring after I had retrofitted the power fold mirrors going off of HumbleMechanic's video on this channel. Could not connecting the window switch cable on the FR door switch have caused this? Because, I would think if it wasn't connected correctly then the switch wouldn't work at all but I'm throwing this out there. Thanks.
@@ADPeguero i think you misread my comment. After you put the window up, release the switch. Then, you have to cycle it twice.
You can hold the spring and spin the wheel and you'll feel the bad bearing in the spring due to the vibrations.
If you're in the Northeast you may want to add an air hammer and a welder to your tool list 😅
Charles when are you going to get back to the TT ???
When I did the front wheel bearings on my 09 Genesis sedan I remember spending like 30mins trying to get the damn bearings out of the hub with a slide hammer...I got fed up looked at my brother and picked up the 5 pound sledge and said "well we DEFINENTLY are gonna need to get it out after this..." and started swinging 😂
Safe to assume this would be the same procedure for my 2015 A3 2.0T Quattro? Love your videos Charles 👍
There may be a little difference here and there, but 99% should be the same
I was wondering. Wouldn't it make sense to change both of the rear wheel bearings? I mean the have done the same mileage. If one is going bad there's a chance/risk that the other one is going to fail in near future.
Did change a wheel bearing on a Golf MK 3. The other side did not fail - not even 100.000 miles later. Bearings can be very different due to manufacturing tolerances. And VW does not always use top quality parts.
You can make a case for that. But the only overlap is having the tools out, and lifting the car. Not enough in my opinion to say 100% do both.
Hi Charles,
Love your videos...
I hope you can advise me..
I have 2015 VW Tiguan Mk1 2 0TDI 120,000 miles.
I'm experiencing a vibration/wobble through the seat when applying the brakes at 50-75mph, most noticeable when descending a highway ramp. The ABS sometimes activates for a couple of seconds and then the abs, asc, tyre pressure warning, and electronic park break warning ⚠️ lights all come on.
There isn't really any noise I can hear when driving, if I'm being really picky possibly a extremely slight tyre noise.
I'm running out of options, been to VW three times for $200 diagnostic sessions they say they can't replicate the issue but can see the stored fault codes, namely rear abs wheel speed sensor and all they have advised is wheel balancing and tyres. I have had the wheel alignment and balancing done, and fitted all new Conti tyres but still the problem persists.
Any advise?
Is wheel bearing a possibility?
Thanks
Brian
One time use 😂 that means pay per bolt 😂
Are these the same part numbers on mk7 and mk8? I have a basically brand new one from when I thought it needed to be replaced on my mk7. It didn’t. Now I have a mk8 and know I’ll need a wheel bearing eventually lol
i spin the wheel and hold my hand on the spring so i can feel the vibration of the bad wheelbearing. the spring amplifies the vibration! eazy
Thats a good idea, I do something similar to what is shown in the video. Instead of a long screw drive I use a crow bar. Not only does this transmit the sound bit it also transmits some of the vibration as well. At least when I have it resting in the engine compartment on a pulley or water pump. I can feel a vibration as i hold the crow bar. Best of both worlds.
Link to that stone brush drill attachment :)
Kinda surprised this car which is not too old has a bad wheel bearing
I wonder who does the drone shots
the rear dust covers on an MK6 Apparently need the wheel bearing to be out to replace them. I wish I knew that before I started ripping them apart.
can you show replacemet rear hub, that without shaft, (FWD car). they use same wheel hub with some wht007128a
hello, can you teach me how to activate VIM (Video In Motion) with VCDS on a Golf 7
- My 2019 Focus, bad front wheel bearing, start to make noises just by driving, like the disc is warp, when i press the brake, a big squeaking noise, then disappear for a few km, also sometimes making a turn i hear a squeaking noise.
- No play in the bearing, spinning by hand i ear the disc touching the pad like is warp.
- I change discs, pads and upgrade the brake hose to stainless steel, still the same.
After i change the wheel bearing, everything is back to normal.
Howdy HM
always a pleasure to get the notification.
Had to jump on and say hi
I have a vw mk7 golf gtd what is the correct torque setting for the rear wheel bearing
Per le plastiche usi : " Gummy pflege stift", o altro prodotto per rinnovare gomme e plastiche. Le plastiche e le gomme ringrazieranno. Mi riferisco ad esempio,al carter nero davanti al cristallo anteriore. Gli UV, sono micidiali per le plastiche. A proposito le cuffie interne ed esterne delle ruote ant (cuffie), come stanno ?. Se le cambierà , eviterà di rovinare i giunti e i semiassi. Brava. Io ho una GOLF 4 GTI TDI 150 Exclusive.
Awesome 👌
Hey Charles I could use some expert knowledge. TLDR: Is the Gen 1 2.0 tsi EA888 engine affected by the audi piston ring recall?
I recently came into the possession of a 2009 vw passat cc, engine code CCTA, trans code KGU, make 357 (passat cc). 145k miles.
Your videos have been really helpful for me getting lots of work done on this car.
The CCTA engine code is one of the 2.0 tsi ea888 gen 1 designations.
I saw someone online saying that the Gen 1 engines had a problem with the low friction piston rings. According to the post the rings are bad from the factory and cause excessive oil consumption.
However, I saw someone else say that this only applies to the audi version of the gen one 2.0T Tsi engines. But if it's the same engine then would it not have the same issue?
My engine does not currently consume oil. But I plan on doing stage 2 tuning to the car and want to know if ill need upgraded pistons and connecting rods so I don't run into reliability issues down the road.
I'm really glad I got this car, because it has been immensely fun to work on, and your channel is fucking awesome. Make more engine teardown videos!
Do you have to get a wheel alignment, after removing the control arm bolts in spring
Yes. i got a 2018 Skoda.
Changed the left foreward bearing.
After that the steering is not straight(syncronized), the car weer off to the left when i center the steering.
Freaking awesome, respect. And for all those keyboard warriors bashing this guy. Let me see you do better or anything even remotely close to this level of build.
3 Cheers for un-sadness on the yellow R
lol look how clean it is. wish my 14 b7 was that clean lol
I have a question unrelated to this video but maybe someone can answer for me. My 2015 golf 1.8 takes a few seconds to start it runs good but when I come to a stop it stutters (doesn't stall). One shop already tested fuel pressure at both fuel pumps and the readings were good, changed cam sensor, pcv, diverter valve and still does the same. They then pressure tested engine compression and came up with 145/140/140/140. They told me I needed a new engine. Just need a second opinion if that is the case, odometer reads 50,200 miles. Thanks in advance.
Have not done a rear bolt on wheel bearing, I live in the salt belt, I guarantee the hub would not come out easy or look like yours.
I got to say... I hate vw aproach with single use bolts... every time i need to replace something ends up costing more in bolts than the part... and found every time i tried to second use is hard to tourq it...
Hey Charles I been getting a “12 battery system low” light on my infotainment screen but I got good voltage from alternator and battery and autozone says it’s fine in all regards but I get the message on my screen a couple times a week. What could cause this?
Ive never seen that except when the voltage is low due to a battery, alternator, fuse, or the cable. You probably need to see what the voltage reading in the cluster is with a scan tool.
@@HumbleMechanic i checked the voltage when cars off and on and it checks out. Where should I check?
Wonderful content.
Seems to me that mk7 wheel bearings are far less reliable than previous model years.
That hasn't really been my experience. They seem to be about the same. I think it may even be the sam bearings going back to MK5 and the MK4/B5 press in weren't great either.
Good,I wish I could get an opportunity to work in your dealership....I am from kenya I love volkswagens soo much...
If you are ever in New Jersey I will put money 💰 in your pocket for working on my vw or audi tt mk 2 vr6 just let me know or I can drive down to you 😂😊
I cringed when you did the plus 90 degrees on the axle bolt. I've had breaker bars brake and seeing where the handle came close to! :o
Fair enough. LOL But that old girl has done me well over the years.
How many miles was the Golf?
120k something
Notification SQUAD!! Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
second ! on VAG cars especialy on unit bearing like this one, u dont need to take the whole knuckle down, just unbolt the bearing,take it out, send the new bearing and DONE!.
i'm from europe, and i never took the knuckle down unless like mk4 you need to use hydraulic press.
This was a Golf R, with AWD and rear driveshafts. On a FWD car you don't have those.
I’m still having the same issue
I’ve just replaced the front on my mk5 R32 and it was so badly rusted I had to hammer it for like and hour 😩
OUCH
why do you pull on the wrench? When pushing down with your own body weight would put less stress on your back!
No chance I’d ever get 180 pushing down. It’s all legs no back!
Potholes on Mk4 were instant bearing mortal wound we heard. someone in neighborhood just found their brake booster had a rust caused pinhole at the bottom of their 2004 VW, causing air to get in the engine and causing lean running clamping the hose at the manifold verified the issue,
😎👍
Pro tip: If it's the rear hub you can apply the parking brake when loosen and tightening the center bolt.
Don't forget lug bolts if the wheel is off. You can snap the brake disc bolt if centre bolt is really tight
That look better("Rust"Free) then the New ones at show room here in Finland. How in the hell did that wheel bearing get so bad already?
...There don seam to be even dust there, man i don't get it! ...RMA that shit!
Yeah i would go and make lottery ticket, if one day a bearing would come out even with just two hands, but no. ...it's hammer time or press.. everyday and night..
I know this car!!! Dustin!
Oh yea!!!
This would be very hard to do on the driveway without a lift.
price things out when its comes to stuff like this. wheel bearings are cheap. mechanic's time is expensive. depending on the car having a mechanic replace all 4 straight away might be a cheaper option than having him test, find and replace 1 bearing at a time
no need to torque the 3 wheel bearing bolts?
I’ll drop the torque specs in a pinned comment when I get back home.
I’ve watch both and it’s hard to see someone upset. But hope she’ll be better soon. I’ve been in a romance scam for a few months fully knowing it to be a scam and playing along, they don’t have compassion for their victims.
Good
Great !!!!.