Thanks a lot, pal. I've just done the bearing at the back of my t6 a couple of days ago. Gotta say, your video guide is the best I came across on TH-cam, keep it up you're needed. Next job for me is timiming belt 😅.
Thanks for the feedback. Nice to hear. Timing belt is easy to do. If it's your first time watch the video and just go slow and you can do it. If you have a leaking crankshaft pulley oil seal best replace while doing the timing belt. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
Great informative video, I’ve just replaced both my rear wheel bearings, followed your instructions and it worked a treat! The kit I had might be slightly different, it didn’t look like it would pass the ABS sensor so I ground a flat edge to miss it. Also if you hadn’t mentioned about the ring getting stuck in the hub when pressing the new bearings I would have had that headache too! Hardest part was getting the new bearings to go in straight, I found gradually tightening up the press and using a block of wood to keep knocking the bearings into the correct alignment worked well. I’m going to plan to change the fronts now I have the confidence. Thanks for your help 👍🏻
Great news that you've done it and yes I've had another comment on the new bearing alignment. That is the trickiest part of the job. Keep us posted on how the front goes. You can do it 👍👍
PLEASE PLEASE READ!!! this is a really fantastic video (the best on youtube) but note the kit I bought of Ebay looked almost identical in a red case and everything ..apart from the small fact that the semi-circle clamps are opposite colours, in other words the small shoulder ones (used to extract the bearing) are silver in my pack AND EVEN THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE BOX ARE WRONG!!! - TELLING YOU, INCORRECTLY, TO USE THE BLACK ONES FOR EXTRACTION (BIGGER SHOULDERS). I spent a good couple of hrs trying to figure out why I couldn't budge the bearing, jumping on a breaker bar... If you are reading this then please make sure you use the semi circles with the shallow shoulders to pull the bearing out (obvious if you think about it as the bearing needs to slide out in the gap through the middle..). The only other tip is when fitting in the new bearing, trying to get it completely square is very tricky. I found the way to it by lining up and screwing in, the bearing would want to tilt to one side all the time.. but then I used a metal block/wedgr to fit in the narrower gap one side to stop it closing further and then when continuing to screw in, it naturally shifted the load to the other side and evened it up all. You can then screw back a bit to release the block/chock and then you'll know when it's true and you can just wind it all the way in.
Exceptional video. My T5.1 has just developed a humming and I thought it might be a bearing. I'm happy tackling my pads and disks so I am more than happy doing my bearing thanks to your video👍
Your video really helped me, thank you so much for sharing. I was scrupulous cleaning the rear seat to fit the guide (beside the abs sensor) and still had a little hassle getting the sleeve out when the new bearing was pushed home. I managed to get a slot ground on the top of it using my cordless angle grinder. A screwdriver in the slot and a tap with the hammer got it out. Thanks again your video was the best out of those I looked at 👍
Very clear and helpful video. Glad that I watched this before starting and highlighted the need for a correct puller tool. I am surprised how quickly they fail though; just 106,000 miles on our family Caravelle - I'd have expected a much better service life, alas seemingly not (for at least one of them anyway)!
Thks for the feedback. It's strange it always seem to be just one that goes. Caravelle and campers are heavy all the time so give the bearings a pasting. Which one was it ? I find the rears go more than the front probably because the rear wheels are fixed. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules Having just come back to view your DSG oil change video, I noticed that I watched your bearing change video last year! For me, it was the rear nearside (UK vehicle) that had failed; I did actually remove the wheel speed sensor when I did mine as I was concerned that I might have caught it when pulling the new bearing in - the puller kit that I bought from Amazon was not great (the thread was out of centre on one of the nuts and the bar wouldn't even go right through it, however I needed to get the job done and have a set of universal bearing cups so used one of the bars out of that set to get me out of a pickle). Like you, I used an OE FAG bearing and they take quite a bit of getting started squarely... if not quite as challenging as getting the old one to start withdrawing (even with a long breaker bar).
@@iandonkin6762 Thanks for coming back to the channel. I bought the bearing kit years ago and was when stuff made in China was actually good so so quality. Current Chinese stuff is really crap quality and poorly made now they dominate the world market they don't need to offer quality. I found a Clarke bearing puller brand new in a box in the workshop must be 10-15 years old if not more. Honestly you'd think it was made in Germany. Cant compare it to the current crap ones offered by Clarke. Quality is a thing of the past. I only buy used quality tools now.
I’ve done exactly this in the video plus same kit and using a breaking bar but it’s broke my breaking bar it’s that tough . And other advice to get it moving please anyone 🙏
If it's broken the breaker bar are you sure the puller is put together properly and there loads of grease on the roller bearing at the front. How long was the breaker bar ? You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules yes all put together properly . Breaker bar was the biggest my local garage had I’ve broken two now . Fully greased it up the thread and the bearings and still no luck I’ve now broken the bearings on the bearing puller . Any other ideas to get this bearing out please
@@glyndwr1282 something has to be wrong there to break two bar. Have you got the right setup behind the bearing as it sounds like you made have it setup to pull the bearing in rather than out. Easy to do.
Hi. I'm attempting but my front bearings this weekend. You did say that only one of the fronts will need the track rod, tie arm or something like that undoing to get the driveshaft out. Do you know which one please? Thanks 👍
I think it's the short drive shaft so as you drive the right side of the Vw. Splitting the tie rods is not difficult so don't worry just have a decent lump hammer at hand. You can do it 👍
Hi. I need to do a front bearing on my T5. I don't suppose you know if the drive shaft can be removed from the bearing without interfering with anything else (steering/suspension bits and bobs)? Thanks
One side you can and one you can't because of the drive shaft lengths. Worse case is you have to split the tie rod ball joint. This is an easy job so no worries. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
Thanks for the feed back. If it's bad that will indeed work but a lot of the these bearings just won't spin that fast even with wheel on to give vibrations. Most feel fine when you rotate them and it's only under load and speed they reveal their true state. You can do it 👍
I'm in the middle of replacing both my rear wheel bearings for my 2013 transporter T5 and holy shit is it rusted, i ruined 2 wrenches already and already have an extension aswell as putting my whole weight jumping on it and it wont budge.. Im using rust dissolver for 2 days now hoping it will be easier next time I try.. Any tips?
Heat always helps. It can take a lot of force to get them to start to move. You are fighting the clip ring that's rusted in. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules Thanks a lot for replying mate, the problem I noticed is that there was no hub cap at the rims to protect the bearing, ALSO there was nothing on the back side so the bearings have been totally exposed for probably 10 years now, so yea it's a struggle :) I will for sure try heat if it doesn't budge now, I will update here incase someone else have similar problems down the line. We will get it one way or another. Happy new year mate.
@@far9832 Thanks for the feedback and update. Yes if the back hasn't got the plastic cap then it's just more rust to fight. One way is to load up the puller as much ch as you can. Then give it some heat and or spray wd40 and just leave it under tension like that over night. Then give it some more torque on the morning and it will usually pop and start to move. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules All in all, I broke 3 ratchets, 1 impact socket, used heat and an entire can of wd40. fully put it under tension for 2 days and it still didn't budge. The wheel bearing tool started breaking down I applied so much power/torque I had to give up unfortunately. I feel defeated and gonna have a shop help me out instead for $200 I believe they have hydraulic presses there it should come out with that. Thanks for your replies and a good video though :)
Tried and failed to do my front left bearing today. I couldn't get the driveshaft out. I did the disks and pads anyway but intended to do both bearings disks and pads. I'll have to have another go. I couldn't get the track rod end off no matter how much I hit it.
Hammer needs to be a big lump hammer. Can always use a splitting tool big never had a hammer fail. Try heating and then soak in wd40. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
Using exactly the same method as yours but I have a play off approximately 1 mm on the top and the bottom of the wheel two times that I changes under 2000 km and bus times it’s the same with fag wheelbearings
@@petemacdar Hi somethings not right. Even the worn bearing generally has no play top and bottom just noise. Check the hub housing has not been damaged. You cannot it 👍
Need to Pull it back off or tap the hube flange to straighten it up if it's only just on by a bit. It's the trickiest bit of the job. Take your time and keep checking. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
@@peterburgess4637 Hi yes 85 will fit. Here's a link to Lasers Bearing tool and read the description. Most of the iterations of the Transport T5 onwards use the same running gear. Always best to check thou. The type 2 bearings are a standard unit on newer Touareg and Transporters. You can do it 👍 www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/5582/GEN2-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-85mm-for-VAG
First time I used this kit it was really stiff. Then I really greased up the threads and bearing washers it was significantly easier to turn. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules nonsense I did use grosse, and a huge amount of torque but nothing worked. Even used a blowtorch, a Hammer etcetera. The kit simply is not strong enough.
Anyone else's hub so seized that it broke the pullers? I think my next option is to remove the whole trailing arm and press it out in a hydraulic press
Thanks a lot, pal. I've just done the bearing at the back of my t6 a couple of days ago. Gotta say, your video guide is the best I came across on TH-cam, keep it up you're needed.
Next job for me is timiming belt 😅.
Thanks for the feedback. Nice to hear. Timing belt is easy to do. If it's your first time watch the video and just go slow and you can do it. If you have a leaking crankshaft pulley oil seal best replace while doing the timing belt. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
Great informative video, I’ve just replaced both my rear wheel bearings, followed your instructions and it worked a treat! The kit I had might be slightly different, it didn’t look like it would pass the ABS sensor so I ground a flat edge to miss it. Also if you hadn’t mentioned about the ring getting stuck in the hub when pressing the new bearings I would have had that headache too! Hardest part was getting the new bearings to go in straight, I found gradually tightening up the press and using a block of wood to keep knocking the bearings into the correct alignment worked well. I’m going to plan to change the fronts now I have the confidence. Thanks for your help 👍🏻
Great news that you've done it and yes I've had another comment on the new bearing alignment. That is the trickiest part of the job. Keep us posted on how the front goes. You can do it 👍👍
PLEASE PLEASE READ!!! this is a really fantastic video (the best on youtube) but note the kit I bought of Ebay looked almost identical in a red case and everything ..apart from the small fact that the semi-circle clamps are opposite colours, in other words the small shoulder ones (used to extract the bearing) are silver in my pack AND EVEN THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE BOX ARE WRONG!!! - TELLING YOU, INCORRECTLY, TO USE THE BLACK ONES FOR EXTRACTION (BIGGER SHOULDERS). I spent a good couple of hrs trying to figure out why I couldn't budge the bearing, jumping on a breaker bar... If you are reading this then please make sure you use the semi circles with the shallow shoulders to pull the bearing out (obvious if you think about it as the bearing needs to slide out in the gap through the middle..).
The only other tip is when fitting in the new bearing, trying to get it completely square is very tricky. I found the way to it by lining up and screwing in, the bearing would want to tilt to one side all the time.. but then I used a metal block/wedgr to fit in the narrower gap one side to stop it closing further and then when continuing to screw in, it naturally shifted the load to the other side and evened it up all. You can then screw back a bit to release the block/chock and then you'll know when it's true and you can just wind it all the way in.
Thanks for hands on feedback. You can do it 👍
One of the best videos out there pointing out the important details too. I'll have to do mine soon. Well, it's due two years ago or so...
Thanks and keep us posted how it goes when you do it. You can do it 👍
Exceptional video. My T5.1 has just developed a humming and I thought it might be a bearing. I'm happy tackling my pads and disks so I am more than happy doing my bearing thanks to your video👍
Perfect, that's the whole point of the channel. Let us know how you get on. You can do it 👍
Your video really helped me, thank you so much for sharing. I was scrupulous cleaning the rear seat to fit the guide (beside the abs sensor) and still had a little hassle getting the sleeve out when the new bearing was pushed home. I managed to get a slot ground on the top of it using my cordless angle grinder. A screwdriver in the slot and a tap with the hammer got it out. Thanks again your video was the best out of those I looked at 👍
Great news you got it out again and thks for the positive feedback. I have to do the other side bearing soon. You can do it 👍
Very clear and helpful video. Glad that I watched this before starting and highlighted the need for a correct puller tool.
I am surprised how quickly they fail though; just 106,000 miles on our family Caravelle - I'd have expected a much better service life, alas seemingly not (for at least one of them anyway)!
Thks for the feedback. It's strange it always seem to be just one that goes. Caravelle and campers are heavy all the time so give the bearings a pasting. Which one was it ? I find the rears go more than the front probably because the rear wheels are fixed. You can do it 👍
My rear drivers sides gone gonna attempt to do it myself this weekend thanks for the video
@@YoucandoitwithJules Having just come back to view your DSG oil change video, I noticed that I watched your bearing change video last year!
For me, it was the rear nearside (UK vehicle) that had failed; I did actually remove the wheel speed sensor when I did mine as I was concerned that I might have caught it when pulling the new bearing in - the puller kit that I bought from Amazon was not great (the thread was out of centre on one of the nuts and the bar wouldn't even go right through it, however I needed to get the job done and have a set of universal bearing cups so used one of the bars out of that set to get me out of a pickle).
Like you, I used an OE FAG bearing and they take quite a bit of getting started squarely... if not quite as challenging as getting the old one to start withdrawing (even with a long breaker bar).
@@iandonkin6762 Thanks for coming back to the channel. I bought the bearing kit years ago and was when stuff made in China was actually good so so quality. Current Chinese stuff is really crap quality and poorly made now they dominate the world market they don't need to offer quality. I found a Clarke bearing puller brand new in a box in the workshop must be 10-15 years old if not more. Honestly you'd think it was made in Germany. Cant compare it to the current crap ones offered by Clarke. Quality is a thing of the past. I only buy used quality tools now.
I’ve done exactly this in the video plus same kit and using a breaking bar but it’s broke my breaking bar it’s that tough . And other advice to get it moving please anyone 🙏
If it's broken the breaker bar are you sure the puller is put together properly and there loads of grease on the roller bearing at the front. How long was the breaker bar ? You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules yes all put together properly . Breaker bar was the biggest my local garage had I’ve broken two now . Fully greased it up the thread and the bearings and still no luck I’ve now broken the bearings on the bearing puller . Any other ideas to get this bearing out please
@@glyndwr1282 something has to be wrong there to break two bar. Have you got the right setup behind the bearing as it sounds like you made have it setup to pull the bearing in rather than out. Easy to do.
Did you have the cutout on the bearing puller correctly aligned 🤷♂️
Heat it
Beste video from all you tube,good explanation and passion 👏 in what you do.
Thanks
Wow thanks for that. Let us know how you get on. You can do it 👍
@youcandoit1828 I fixed, I followed your steps, very useful.
Thanks
@@dariuscsutak9843 well done. You can do it 👍
i suggest leaving the new bearing in the freezer over night, might help with instalation
Always helps. You can do it 👍
Thank you for a thorough video. I'm certainly going to try it now.
You can do it, keep us posted on your progress. You can do it 👍
Hi. I'm attempting but my front bearings this weekend. You did say that only one of the fronts will need the track rod, tie arm or something like that undoing to get the driveshaft out. Do you know which one please? Thanks 👍
I think it's the short drive shaft so as you drive the right side of the Vw. Splitting the tie rods is not difficult so don't worry just have a decent lump hammer at hand. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules Thanks for your replies over the weeks. These videos have been really helpful. All that best.
Hi there, Are you able to send a link to the ‘Identifying the correct wheel bearing’ video please; if you’ve managed to do one. TY
Hi I'll edit the video and get it uploaded. Thanks for reminding. You can do it 👍
‘I did it’! Thanks for your video, 2 new hubs and what feels like a whole new van! Although I had to use 12mm on the calipers!
@@stuartdeakin6468 Hi well done and a good feeling to sort it yourself. You can do it 👍
Hi. I need to do a front bearing on my T5. I don't suppose you know if the drive shaft can be removed from the bearing without interfering with anything else (steering/suspension bits and bobs)?
Thanks
One side you can and one you can't because of the drive shaft lengths. Worse case is you have to split the tie rod ball joint. This is an easy job so no worries. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules thanks. I'll look up info on the tie ball rod. 👍. I've got a Haynes manual on the way
Quite helpful vid and well done. Why didn't you replace the worn out brake disk ?
The disc was fine. Might not look it on the video but it's alarmist new. We Habseligkeiten of salt on the roads here in Austria. You can do it 👍
If you put your hand on the coil spring and spin the wheel you should feel the vibration through the spring if the bearing is worn
Thanks for the feed back. If it's bad that will indeed work but a lot of the these bearings just won't spin that fast even with wheel on to give vibrations. Most feel fine when you rotate them and it's only under load and speed they reveal their true state. You can do it 👍
thanks for the video... does the new hip already have the speed sensor ring on it?
Yes it's all part of the bearing hub assembly. You can do it 👍
Hi, could you send link to extractor kit as i can't find it anywhere.
Just type in Amazon 'vw t5 rear wheel bearing removal tool' loads will come up. You can do it 👍
I'm in the middle of replacing both my rear wheel bearings for my 2013 transporter T5 and holy shit is it rusted, i ruined 2 wrenches already and already have an extension aswell as putting my whole weight jumping on it and it wont budge.. Im using rust dissolver for 2 days now hoping it will be easier next time I try.. Any tips?
Heat always helps. It can take a lot of force to get them to start to move. You are fighting the clip ring that's rusted in. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules Thanks a lot for replying mate, the problem I noticed is that there was no hub cap at the rims to protect the bearing, ALSO there was nothing on the back side so the bearings have been totally exposed for probably 10 years now, so yea it's a struggle :)
I will for sure try heat if it doesn't budge now, I will update here incase someone else have similar problems down the line. We will get it one way or another.
Happy new year mate.
@@far9832 Thanks for the feedback and update. Yes if the back hasn't got the plastic cap then it's just more rust to fight. One way is to load up the puller as much ch as you can. Then give it some heat and or spray wd40 and just leave it under tension like that over night. Then give it some more torque on the morning and it will usually pop and start to move. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules All in all, I broke 3 ratchets, 1 impact socket, used heat and an entire can of wd40. fully put it under tension for 2 days and it still didn't budge. The wheel bearing tool started breaking down I applied so much power/torque I had to give up unfortunately. I feel defeated and gonna have a shop help me out instead for $200 I believe they have hydraulic presses there it should come out with that.
Thanks for your replies and a good video though :)
Thanks you ! I've done it ! The tool i used almost break but i succed ! :-D
Well done 💪 and thanks for keeping us posted. You can do it 👍
Tried and failed to do my front left bearing today. I couldn't get the driveshaft out. I did the disks and pads anyway but intended to do both bearings disks and pads. I'll have to have another go. I couldn't get the track rod end off no matter how much I hit it.
Hammer needs to be a big lump hammer. Can always use a splitting tool big never had a hammer fail. Try heating and then soak in wd40. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
Did you check the play just after setting up the new FAG wheel bearing? I did it 4 times and always have a play
Hi, no play at all. There shouldn't be any play what so ever. make a video and post it up. You can do it
Using exactly the same method as yours but I have a play off approximately 1 mm on the top and the bottom of the wheel two times that I changes under 2000 km and bus times it’s the same with fag wheelbearings
@@petemacdar Hi somethings not right. Even the worn bearing generally has no play top and bottom just noise. Check the hub housing has not been damaged. You cannot it 👍
Very helpful video do you have a link for the puller kit?
Hi I'll put a link up shortly. You can do it 👍
Can I ask how you moved the bearing if it starts to not go in level. How did you level it up. Great video 😎👍
Need to Pull it back off or tap the hube flange to straighten it up if it's only just on by a bit. It's the trickiest bit of the job. Take your time and keep checking. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules top man. Thanks 👍
Hi great vid is the t6 same as t5? will the 85mm puller work with the t6?
only asking as the puller says t5 to 2015 and later touaregs 16" wheels
@@peterburgess4637 Hi yes 85 will fit. Here's a link to Lasers Bearing tool and read the description. Most of the iterations of the Transport T5 onwards use the same running gear. Always best to check thou. The type 2 bearings are a standard unit on newer Touareg and Transporters. You can do it 👍
www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/5582/GEN2-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-85mm-for-VAG
@@YoucandoitwithJules CHEERS just picked up a fag unit this morn... then my egr codes came up as well oh dear....
Keep us posted on how it goes 👍
Great video. Easy to understand
Thanks and keep us posted on how it goes. You can do it 👍
Thanks for this. Would have been stuck without modifying that back ring.
Glad you sorted it. That rear ring is such a bitch of job to get out of it gets stick in there. You can do it 👍
Great thank you and very informative. Your tips along the process, spot on. Had no issues all went to plan. Thanks so much. A++++
Great news and thanks for the feedback. You can do it 👍
Another excellent vid!!
Thanks again! You can do it 👍
Excellent, many thanks, doing this soon!
Glad it helped. Keep us posted on how you get on. You can do it :)
in my experience it is a lot harder to remove a bearing with a kit like this. I had to use a lot more force!
First time I used this kit it was really stiff. Then I really greased up the threads and bearing washers it was significantly easier to turn. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules nonsense I did use grosse, and a huge amount of torque but nothing worked. Even used a blowtorch, a Hammer etcetera. The kit simply is not strong enough.
Maybe they are not the same spec. kits. All I can say is my puller hasn't come across a bearing it cant remove. You can do it.
Good video
Thanks for the feedback. You can do it 👍
Anyone else's hub so seized that it broke the pullers? I think my next option is to remove the whole trailing arm and press it out in a hydraulic press
How did it break them ? You could heat the casting soak in wd40 and leave to penetrate. You can do it 👍
ich würde bei der gelegenheit die bremscheiben, klötze und den abs sensor tauchen, sieht alles sehr schlecht aus.
Leider es ist Österreich und immer Salz auf der Straße 🤷♂️ You can do it 👍
😮