Cause he does things like says “obviously you need both wheels off the ground” NOTHING IS OBVIOUS IN A “HOW TO” VIDEO! That’s why we’re here.. is to learn HOW TO
because they think that they are better than him...what a silly rigth or they are just jealous because they dont have knowledge to do it simple is that..they should be thankful learning without paying
That trick to grab the strut saved my life with my Mk4 man. I could hear it while driving but could not pinpoint the side. I thought it was tore nosie because I got new tires last night but I guess the old tires masked the noise of the bad bearing. The whole time I thought the easy way was to take the entire knuckle off and replace it. I had no idea you could do this without a press!! Your way is still a bit of a challenge but it's a lot better than replacement of the entire knuckle. Now I just need to get outside and make sure that mine has that same 4 bolt design and I know what I need to fix it. My Jetta is my daily driver and my kid is in the car all the time. I need it to be as safe as possible.
Fantastic guide on this, and the extra info on hanging the calipers etc. with notes on how not to do things is even better. It's alway great to know why something shouldn't be done, a lot of guides just assume you know these things.
Yup, gonna have to replace both fronts on my 2010 2.5 I kind of figured that was the noise, as I had had to do it to my 2006 2.5 Jetta as well (sold that one, should have kept it.) Your video portion with the road noise confirmed it for me, thanks.
Nice job. I bought a 2005 Jetta today 129k and it has grinding sounds in front. This video showed me how the noise is broadcast into car. Now I am sure of the wheel bearings being the issue, as my mechanic told me it more than likely is. He gets car for safety check plus in 2 days. Keep making great videos my friend.
Definitely helpful for me on my '14 jetta. It's a bit tighter and harder to maneuver the axel around, but I got it done. Thank you for helping me save a few hundred bucks!
Finally found a clip on accessing those damn 12 pt 12M bolts securing hub to lower member. I would have sworn mine were 11M but there is no such triple square. Thank you. And, thank you again!!!
Thanks man!! had no idea what the sound was coming from my car. Read something on a VW facebook page about wheel bearing growling and watched this video. My car has the exact same sound.
Thank you for the detailed video and specifications. I watched your video and changed the front wheel bearings on my 2012 VW CC. Your video is spot on. After watching the video, I made sure I had adequate leverage on a few of the bolts that are torqued down. Made the job much smoother ... I am sure.
Bryan Nicoll I have the same car. Tried replacing this bitch bitching thing. Was never able to remove this 24 bolt. However, I think I removed one my spine's vertebrae.
Thanks so much. We had a feeling it might be a wheel bearing, I'll be getting my jack out in the morning to find out which one is faulty. The noise is exactly the same!
Another option on the bearing bolts is to have the axle in and control arm s as normal and crank the steering wheel to full lock to get at first two and repeat for other side...this gives you less floppy hub and better leverage
This is the best bearing desing ever. You can just replace it at home no problem. On my passat B5 unfortunately the bearing is pressed in so that sucks.
Thank you for the great video, I was going back the tire shop for alignment but the tires are 3 months old, the noise its around 40mph, I have a bad bearing
This was totally awesome video, showing the simplicity of this job. Firestone quoted me $850 for the wheel bearing replacement and $350 for the axle replacement, so $1200. Southern California. Tell me how much Firestone rips off its customers. They tried to blame the noise on the transmission. Does it mean they screwed up on installing the new axle?
Whenever you are trying to perform major dismantling of the wheel, please.....and always remember to loosen the adsorber mounting. Else the force and moment due to some bending on the strut during dismantling of the wheel component may cause further damage to the mounting.
Good video and its good to know whats going on. My t5 has done 300k and its begining to get a bit noise from the wheel bearings. I wont be doing the job my self as iam a useless mechanich person but it pays to understand how it all works. Thank you for the video.
just a fyi when setting your jack stand take note of the surface you use round indention would serve better in matching that control arm rounded part to avoid it from slipping .... great video though for the diy
Im just curious, how would this have any effect on the alignment? The lower ball joint bolts into holes not slots, so regardless it would be in the exact same position, would it not?
Very good advises man! I wish i had seen your video before i went first time with bearing problem to the service! I didn't have much of experience with this, but i thought the same way when diagnosing the noise. The service guys were idiots!... at least I've expected their incompetence. Thanks a lot for all the videos you share with us! I'm thinking of making such videos my self when i won't find something specific that i need to do. They really do come in handy for a lot of us gear heads :)
The link to the myturbodiesel wiki does not work anymore! I was hoping to get torque specs, socket size of the axle nut, etc. When I click on your link in the description part of the video, I get an error message that says "Oops The Requested Page Could Not Be Found"
Great video. Can you do the rear of an awd. Possibly a 2010 tiguan. Btw, there are 3 axle bolts, the 12 points come in ribbed or without. The ribbed bolts are the ones with less torque otherwise the none ribbed 12 points is the exact same as the 6 point.
if the hub bolts fail the wheel still can't fall off since the outside cv joint is bolted through it- and is much too large to go through the assembly hole. Would jump around a lot though
I started barely noticing that I had the dreaded bad wheel bearing noise coming from my left wheel. It is becoming more noticeable. What I would like to know, and I hope you can give me some advice is, how long can I wait until I need to change the wheel bearings. Can they go out on a 6 hour trip or do they have some life left. They are not as bad as the ones in your video and they do not shake the car yet. Thanks in advance.
Isn't there a danger of damaging the axle (the ball joints) by hitting the end of it? I'm not referring to the mushrooming of the end of the axle, but the damaging of the inner surfaces of the joints.
Hi. Thank u for your great job. Is helping lots of people. I know these boltd comes with different torque specs. Apart from tork spe, does it make any difference to use one or onother bolt? Do they fit the same way in the shaft?
Is the rear similar process? I have the humming which sounds like the driver side rear, just got new tires and there is still quite a bit of road noise.
What would cause the sound of a rattle that increases in volume with acceleration? Only time I ever heard that noise was when my axle bolts came out and my axle was half off and that rattle sound came up, but my axle bolts are all in now.
MYVW Tourage is making a winning noise at the front wheel nearing, a month ago it was hardly noticeable and now it is loud enough to dtect when near a barrier or wall on the highway ( 10 ft away) Am I correct in assuming this is early stages of wheel bearing going Bad???
It looked old but was it bad? How could you tell after it was taken out visually I mean thought it was a pressed in ? So it is only bearing holding bearing balls?
Old thread I know, but for anyone still interested, yes you can tell. The grease around the balls should be yellowish, but in a bad bearing it will turn black due to heat. There are two races within the bearing, an inner and an outer race. In my bad bearing the inner race burned up but the outer race was still good. I suspect that will be the typical mode of failure - one side of the bearing generally loads more than the other sure to vehicle dynamics, and once excess play develops the lesser loaded side doesn't spin the balls as well but rubs past them instead creating heat.
The Haynes manual state that the car must not be standing on its wheels when torquing the driveshaft bolt, or the wheel bearing will be damaged. What do you guys think about this?
Would this be the same for a 2000 Jetta GLS? I will have to do both my fronts, but I am a bit leery due to information telling me that I will need to pull off the whole knuckle and press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing. Any thoughts?
Last time I was doing suspension job I had big problems with removing an axle from wheel bearing. What do you recommend to do if it doesn't want to come out of bearing? Hammer didn't help much that time. :(
I would suggest always doing an alignment anyway, even if you measure the ball joints and what not.. for the small cost it's worth it for the drivability and tyre life :)
I removed the ABS sensor and wirebrushed the hell out of my hubs before treating with rust killer and applying a liberal dose of antiseize. After 190k the old bearings were well rusted in there and a bear to get out. I shouldn't ever have to go in there again, but if I do I'll have an easier time next time.
I've been getting small vibration at exactly 64 mph but I don't believe there's any bearing noise, I've gotta imagine the bearings are my issue tires and wheels are new. The faster I go, the vibration lessens - if I hit 70 or above and set cruise it's not as as bad if not gone. but 60-64mph it's noticeable.
+Drewdownkali The rear bearings are pretty easy, since theyre not driven they are just held on by the axle nut. The hardest part about that job is getting the caliper bracket off in order to remove the rotor. You can find the torque specs by simply googling "(year) volkswagen jetta rear bearing replacement" or "(year) volkwagen jetta rear bearing torque specs" and looking on the forums like VWVortex or something similar
Any pothole at considerable speeds can do a TON of damage. Avoid them as much as possible while considering your safety above all else. I've seen plenty of people almost swerve onto oncoming traffic just to avoid a pothole death pit. I recently just got a sudden bulge on the sidewall of my driver side tire. Most likely a pothole I missed. It happens.
Mine sounds like a loud whistle when I turn left or right and sometimes while going straight. but it comes from the rear tires. I think my bearings are done.
is this the rear wheel bearing or front? cause I'm trying to look for shops that have the front wheel bearing and hub assembly together cause I don't have to steering knuckle to compress it. any ideas where I can get the? thanks guys
removing brake calliper.why just not two main bolts? or u want to make sure that sliders are not stuck? :) aswell u dont like 3/4 ratchet,i got one after similar breaker bar broke with pipe on it.
i get a humming noise when i turn right, its not connected to the speed of the car and only occurs when the accelerator is not pressed? Any ideas? I can turn the wheels both ways when stationery and hear it loudest. Any help much appreciated :) 99 passat wagon
can someone tell me what tool I might need to buy or rent to get the axle bearing off I have a polar similar to what they have but I do not have a cutter to cut the bearing off
Hi there , I think you may have mixed-up the wheels when diagnosing which bearing is worn out , if your saying that loading the car to one or the other side of the car would means transferring more weight to that side , I would say the side your steering into would be "loaded". or would have the most weight on it or force exerted on it . but there's always the chance I've forgotten everything I learned in high school physics ?
Hi my 2005 volkswagen jetta has 183k miles on it, and im getting a grinding and wobbling noise from my tires it seems, and when I go above 80mph ut gets very very loud, idk if this may be it, can you help me?
Chance McDowell i know this has been posted a long time ago but Your description sounds alot like the noise I'm getting. Did you find the cause of the noise?
Never understand how people give a thumbs down to a well prepared video aimed to help. Thanks man!
It's machanics..... big box brand machanics leaving thumbs down....they will be aaaalright😊😊😊😊
Cause he does things like says “obviously you need both wheels off the ground”
NOTHING IS OBVIOUS IN A “HOW TO” VIDEO! That’s why we’re here.. is to learn HOW TO
because they think that they are better than him...what a silly rigth or they are just jealous because they dont have knowledge to do it simple is that..they should be thankful learning without paying
You can’t take the wheel off unless the car is jacked up. It’s common sense. Use your head, just a little bit..
the video does not show the original problem... useless.
That trick to grab the strut saved my life with my Mk4 man. I could hear it while driving but could not pinpoint the side. I thought it was tore nosie because I got new tires last night but I guess the old tires masked the noise of the bad bearing. The whole time I thought the easy way was to take the entire knuckle off and replace it. I had no idea you could do this without a press!! Your way is still a bit of a challenge but it's a lot better than replacement of the entire knuckle. Now I just need to get outside and make sure that mine has that same 4 bolt design and I know what I need to fix it. My Jetta is my daily driver and my kid is in the car all the time. I need it to be as safe as possible.
Fantastic guide on this, and the extra info on hanging the calipers etc. with notes on how not to do things is even better. It's alway great to know why something shouldn't be done, a lot of guides just assume you know these things.
Yup, gonna have to replace both fronts on my 2010 2.5 I kind of figured that was the noise, as I had had to do it to my 2006 2.5 Jetta as well (sold that one, should have kept it.) Your video portion with the road noise confirmed it for me, thanks.
Nice job. I bought a 2005 Jetta today 129k and it has grinding sounds in front.
This video showed me how the noise is broadcast into car. Now I am sure of the wheel bearings being the issue, as my mechanic told me it more than likely is.
He gets car for safety check plus in 2 days.
Keep making great videos my friend.
Definitely helpful for me on my '14 jetta. It's a bit tighter and harder to maneuver the axel around, but I got it done. Thank you for helping me save a few hundred bucks!
I have to say, you give great detail to this process, good job with your video.
Finally found a clip on accessing those damn 12 pt 12M bolts securing hub to lower member. I would have sworn mine were 11M but there is no such triple square. Thank you. And, thank you again!!!
I've been driving MB, BMW and now VW, I never knew about a wheel hanger. Nice job, great vid, good tips, very practical, thanks, Dave.
Thanks man!! had no idea what the sound was coming from my car. Read something on a VW facebook page about wheel bearing growling and watched this video. My car has the exact same sound.
I am replacing my wheel bearings on a 2006 jetta 2.5 this weekend. Really appreciate your doing this. Thanks.
Thank you for the detailed video and specifications. I watched your video and changed the front wheel bearings on my 2012 VW CC. Your video is spot on. After watching the video, I made sure I had adequate leverage on a few of the bolts that are torqued down. Made the job much smoother ... I am sure.
Bryan Nicoll I have the same car. Tried replacing this bitch bitching thing. Was never able to remove this 24 bolt. However, I think I removed one my spine's vertebrae.
The forum post seems to be down. Are the instructions and torque specs available anywhere in writing?
Thanks so much. We had a feeling it might be a wheel bearing, I'll be getting my jack out in the morning to find out which one is faulty. The noise is exactly the same!
Learned a few german swear words today. The m12 triple square bolts were a soft metal. Striped 2 of the 4 drivers side. Had to drill em out....yay=).
Did you separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle? Great video
Another option on the bearing bolts is to have the axle in and control arm s as normal and crank the steering wheel to full lock to get at first two and repeat for other side...this gives you less floppy hub and better leverage
Damn good tip. Worked great 👍
This is the best bearing desing ever. You can just replace it at home no problem. On my passat B5 unfortunately the bearing is pressed in so that sucks.
Hanger bolt tip. Love it.
Bought one, thanks to this video.
Thank you for the great video, I was going back the tire shop for alignment but the tires are 3 months old, the noise its around 40mph, I have a bad bearing
Best presented mech video I've seen. Much respect. Wish I you did vids for Eurovans.
Wish you had finished the video demonstrating getting the ball joint bolts back into the lower control arm.
This video is packed with good information. Thank you.
Another good video Chitty, the forum has gone crap since you sold the forum, The TDI Wiki link doesn't work now
This was totally awesome video, showing the simplicity of this job. Firestone quoted me $850 for the wheel bearing replacement and $350 for the axle replacement, so $1200. Southern California. Tell me how much Firestone rips off its customers. They tried to blame the noise on the transmission. Does it mean they screwed up on installing the new axle?
Best video I've seen on this! Thanks!
Whenever you are trying to perform major dismantling of the wheel, please.....and always remember to loosen the adsorber mounting. Else the force and moment due to some bending on the strut during dismantling of the wheel component may cause further damage to the mounting.
Good video and its good to know whats going on. My t5 has done 300k and its begining to get a bit noise from the wheel bearings. I wont be doing the job my self as iam a useless mechanich person but it pays to understand how it all works. Thank you for the video.
Excellent tutorial and step by step description.
just a fyi when setting your jack stand take note of the surface you use round indention would serve better in matching that control arm rounded part to avoid it from slipping .... great video though for the diy
Im just curious, how would this have any effect on the alignment? The lower ball joint bolts into holes not slots, so regardless it would be in the exact same position, would it not?
that was my experience...no change
my favorite part was when he said please refer to my website for torque specs and i clicked the link and it took me to a dead end.
Do you have a video on how to replace the MK4 wheel bearing?
Very good advises man!
I wish i had seen your video before i went first time with bearing problem to the service! I didn't have much of experience with this, but i thought the same way when diagnosing the noise.
The service guys were idiots!... at least I've expected their incompetence.
Thanks a lot for all the videos you share with us!
I'm thinking of making such videos my self when i won't find something specific that i need to do. They really do come in handy for a lot of us gear heads :)
Great Video ! Thanks for sharing this information, i am driving passat 2015 model and facing the roaring sound in front wheel, U R Spot on !
What does he mean index the lower control arm bolts so you don’t mess up the alignment ?
He's fried hahahahahahahahhahaa
Man I wish I could like this video again
The link to the myturbodiesel wiki does not work anymore! I was hoping to get torque specs, socket size of the axle nut, etc. When I click on your link in the description part of the video, I get an error message that says "Oops The Requested Page Could Not Be Found"
Why did you not just remove the carrier? No need to remove the caliper and then the carrier?
I was able to keep it all together and no problem sliding it off the rotor ....a time saver for sure and pads stay where they belong
Thanks a lot for your help man, my Jetta is in great working condition again. feels like new :) I've already subscribed, keep up the good work man.
very helpful video, thanks. All the symptom stuff would apply to most any cars too right?
Thanks for a great video. Appreciated the handy hints and suggestions.
id suggest using penetrating oil on heavily rusted spots like where that bearing sat on
Great video. Can you do the rear of an awd. Possibly a 2010 tiguan. Btw, there are 3 axle bolts, the 12 points come in ribbed or without. The ribbed bolts are the ones with less torque otherwise the none ribbed 12 points is the exact same as the 6 point.
Thank you for this video, it was very well done. I checked out your link as you suggested, again very well done.
this has help me greatly.
Cheers!
4:13 Did the wheel hanger come with your car? Is it made by VW?
Some of those VW torque plus angle bolts are next to impossible to tighten down fully. You feel like you are going to break them.
Easy with the right tools, 3/4 bar minimum for that 200nm + 180°
if the hub bolts fail the wheel still can't fall off since the outside cv joint is bolted through it- and is much too large to go through the assembly hole. Would jump around a lot though
I started barely noticing that I had the dreaded bad wheel bearing noise coming from my left wheel. It is becoming more noticeable. What I would like to know, and I hope you can give me some advice is, how long can I wait until I need to change the wheel bearings. Can they go out on a 6 hour trip or do they have some life left. They are not as bad as the ones in your video and they do not shake the car yet. Thanks in advance.
Isn't there a danger of damaging the axle (the ball joints) by hitting the end of it? I'm not referring to the mushrooming of the end of the axle, but the damaging of the inner surfaces of the joints.
Hi. Thank u for your great job. Is helping lots of people.
I know these boltd comes with different torque specs. Apart from tork spe, does it make any difference to use one or onother bolt? Do they fit the same way in the shaft?
I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Well done!
Is there any reason to not replace the triple square bolts with a conventional metric hex head bolt?
Are you using a 3/8 or a 1/2 for the axle bolt? want something strong enough
I would use 1/2 drive
3/4 if u can way less flex and u can do the full 180° easy
Thanks! I have a MK4 but this was a good watch regardless
Is it the same steps for the Mk4??
What if one of the side you’re loading is quiet and the other one is just as loud when driving straight?
Is the rear similar process? I have the humming which sounds like the driver side rear, just got new tires and there is still quite a bit of road noise.
Great vid but,,,, @ 9:50 isn't working for me, another ideas please ????
What would cause the sound of a rattle that increases in volume with acceleration? Only time I ever heard that noise was when my axle bolts came out and my axle was half off and that rattle sound came up, but my axle bolts are all in now.
MYVW Tourage is making a winning noise at the front wheel nearing, a month ago it was hardly noticeable and now it is loud enough to dtect when near a barrier or wall on the highway ( 10 ft away) Am I correct in assuming this is early stages of wheel bearing going Bad???
It looked old but was it bad? How could you tell after it was taken out visually I mean thought it was a pressed in ? So it is only bearing holding bearing balls?
Old thread I know, but for anyone still interested, yes you can tell. The grease around the balls should be yellowish, but in a bad bearing it will turn black due to heat.
There are two races within the bearing, an inner and an outer race. In my bad bearing the inner race burned up but the outer race was still good. I suspect that will be the typical mode of failure - one side of the bearing generally loads more than the other sure to vehicle dynamics, and once excess play develops the lesser loaded side doesn't spin the balls as well but rubs past them instead creating heat.
The Haynes manual state that the car must not be standing on its wheels when torquing the driveshaft bolt, or the wheel bearing will be damaged. What do you guys think about this?
Your supposed to torqe the 200nm while wheel off the ground then the full 180° when wheel on the ground
I have noise when I turn steering to the left with speed of 60kmh I changed both front bearing and no more noise. vw passat 2.0tdi year 2007 B6
Where did you buy the hub from this video? Having a difficult time finding one that’s pressed already.
the link in the description is no longer good. can someone tell the torque for the hub bolt for the 27mm HEX and the 24 XZN (triple square) ??
Would this be the same for a 2000 Jetta GLS? I will have to do both my fronts, but I am a bit leery due to information telling me that I will need to pull off the whole knuckle and press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing. Any thoughts?
The bearing on my 2001 1.8T Beetle is completely different than this. Is there any video on different types of bearings?
Last time I was doing suspension job I had big problems with removing an axle from wheel bearing. What do you recommend to do if it doesn't want to come out of bearing? Hammer didn't help much that time. :(
I would suggest always doing an alignment anyway, even if you measure the ball joints and what not.. for the small cost it's worth it for the drivability and tyre life :)
Always a good idea.
injector cover sprinter 311
Is E24 socket same as 24mm 12 - point?
I removed the ABS sensor and wirebrushed the hell out of my hubs before treating with rust killer and applying a liberal dose of antiseize. After 190k the old bearings were well rusted in there and a bear to get out. I shouldn't ever have to go in there again, but if I do I'll have an easier time next time.
I've been getting small vibration at exactly 64 mph but I don't believe there's any bearing noise, I've gotta imagine the bearings are my issue tires and wheels are new. The faster I go, the vibration lessens - if I hit 70 or above and set cruise it's not as as bad if not gone. but 60-64mph it's noticeable.
Where do i find the tools you used? the 12 point socket is impossible to find online.
dude i'm pretty boned too :(
Ciara Hosking get it off ebay in a kit
You can buy a set on Amazon. You can also look for "four square" sockets
The 12 point socket is just a normal socket.....sockets either come as 6 side/point or 12 side/point. They are readily available everywhere....
what size socket did you use to remove the axle bolt?
thanks for posting, M12 , 12 point bolt = triple square
Article is no longer there :(
I think my 2012 jettta has this issue, is it common to have it on a car thats only 4 years old?
Are there any other reasons to feel vibrations through the strut when you rotate the wheel or is a failed bearing the primary cause?
I don’t understand why they use triple square bolts especially behind the hub .
do you have a video on the rear bearings?
+Drewdownkali The rear bearings are pretty easy, since theyre not driven they are just held on by the axle nut. The hardest part about that job is getting the caliper bracket off in order to remove the rotor. You can find the torque specs by simply googling "(year) volkswagen jetta rear bearing replacement" or "(year) volkwagen jetta rear bearing torque specs" and looking on the forums like VWVortex or something similar
Why do I have a 24mm 12point on the drivers side and a 27mm 6 point on the passenger side??
Because on side has already been changed
is it possible to damage wheel bearings from a big pothole , nice video btw
i would think so
Any pothole at considerable speeds can do a TON of damage. Avoid them as much as possible while considering your safety above all else. I've seen plenty of people almost swerve onto oncoming traffic just to avoid a pothole death pit. I recently just got a sudden bulge on the sidewall of my driver side tire. Most likely a pothole I missed. It happens.
I fucked up half of the suspension components on one side because a particularly evil pothole... Funnily enough, the bearing was fine, haha.
I’m curious how many miles were on this car when the bearing failed?
mine failed around 170-180k (I think I read they are suppose to go around 150k)
Very thorough video! Well done.
What if the whining noise still there ? What else could be?
Mine sounds like a loud whistle when I turn left or right and sometimes while going straight. but it comes from the rear tires. I think my bearings are done.
Well done good sir, thank you.... Does this work on a 2003 audi a6 bi-turbo awd Quattro 2.7t ????
is this the rear wheel bearing or front? cause I'm trying to look for shops that have the front wheel bearing and hub assembly together cause I don't have to steering knuckle to compress it. any ideas where I can get the? thanks guys
removing brake calliper.why just not two main bolts?
or u want to make sure that sliders are not stuck?
:)
aswell u dont like 3/4 ratchet,i got one after similar breaker bar broke with pipe on it.
i get a humming noise when i turn right, its not connected to the speed of the car and only occurs when the accelerator is not pressed? Any ideas? I can turn the wheels both ways when stationery and hear it loudest. Any help much appreciated :) 99 passat wagon
Awesome thanks for your efforts and sharing your experience with us..found this very useful and interesting
can someone tell me what tool I might need to buy or rent to get the axle bearing off I have a polar similar to what they have but I do not have a cutter to cut the bearing off
Hi there , I think you may have mixed-up the wheels when diagnosing which bearing is worn out , if your saying that loading the car to one or the other side of the car would means transferring more weight to that side , I would say the side your steering into would be "loaded". or would have the most weight on it or force exerted on it . but there's always the chance I've forgotten everything I learned in high school physics ?
I was wrong , you have it right in the video my apologies !
The rotar wear pattern is absolutely VW AUDI style.
I don’t think you needed to undo the ball joint bolts though.
Hi my 2005 volkswagen jetta has 183k miles on it, and im getting a grinding and wobbling noise from my tires it seems, and when I go above 80mph ut gets very very loud, idk if this may be it, can you help me?
Chance McDowell i know this has been posted a long time ago but Your description sounds alot like the noise I'm getting. Did you find the cause of the noise?
is this the same front bearing for a 2016 Passat?
Never heard Of not backing the axle nut off while weight is on it I do it all the time with my two trucks and my wife’s Jetta never hurt anything
What is the torque specs?
Please post the original problem with the sound being made!!!