Go to drinkag1.com/bourbonmoth to get a one year supply of vitamin D3+K2 and 5 AG1 travel packs with your first subscription. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today's video!
I built a similar jig a few years ago, specifically for panel inserts, and it works great. But your addition of that arc across the top, to make angled bridle joints, is absolutely BRILLIANT.
Hey Jason… I made this jig ,and I didn’t rip you off. I bought the plans. I used laminate on MDF instead of Melamine because it’s what I had. The laminate was too slick and the work piece, although clamped securely, would slip when passing through the blade.I added strips of adhesive backed sandpaper to the laminate and now it works perfectly. Oh, and I used my Bourbon Blade to trim the excess sandpaper. Great tool. Thanks for all you do. 👍🏻
It isn't often that i haven't found an unusual use for something but I never thought of toilet seat screws for slides. Thant is OUTSTANDING! I am using that one for alot of things.
Hi Jason, the plastic sleeve/nuts can be placed on the saw fence side so when the bolt is tightened it pulls the sleeve into the drilled hole. Your method means the Total Boat fixo is the only thing holding the sleeve in place. I don't think in your method and the amount of pressure the plastic screw will pull the sleeve out over time. But, being on the inside, the sleeve won't ever move.
Yes, but the GOAT was WISE and included triangular gussets between the vertical plate and the top of the "box" to ALWAYS ENSURE that the vertical plate was actually 90 degrees to the table top. What Jason built will become a RANDOM angle jig....because, ZIP, ZAP, ZOOP!! 🤣 😂 😅
Great fixture. Truly enjoyed your video. I am a somewhat of a "beginner" woodworker and can't afford the Saw Stop table saw. Way out of my budget. I currently have the Skil TS-6307-00 Table Saw. Besides the price, it had a lot of nice features like Rack and Pinion Fence, love the blade alignment feature (works great), two standard miter slots, locking fence mechanism, accommodates a dado stack, and others. The rip fence has a feature that I believe would make your table saw upgrade a bit difficult to adapt. There is a three position work support/auxiliary fence that seems it would get in the way. This auxiliary fence can be positioned to support the workpiece when the fence is extended to the right, beyond the table surface. It can be moved up a notch and sit on top of the table when cutting thin materials (3/4" or less) close to the blade. Finally, it can be flipped (rotated) over the fence and stored out of the way, on the right side of the fence. I just don't see a way to adapt your design to accommodate this fence.
Very nice jig. Thanks for posting this. I was noticing that for the cross T track, if they are let's say 3 inches from center of cross, then instead of cutting your dado 4 inches from the edge and making a new t track leg to fit, just move your dado to 3 inches from the edge so the included factory cut piece just fits from that edge. And do that for all the edges. Also, for your angle fence, instead of cutting a curved slot in the base of the jig, just use the top t track. But instead of just having a hole in the top of the fence, cut a long slot in the center of the fence lengthwise. Then move your bolt along the t track and it will slide through the slot in the fence. That might be simpler and safer than cutting an arc in the jig. Keep up the great content.
Great jig. You could put the flange of the toilet adjuster countersunk on the inside. The flange would push against the wood instead of trying to pull out of the wood. And if the barrel of the flange is too long, it would stick out the back. Which wouldn't be a problem and give you full threads. Details, details. What you have in the video would work absolutely great though since there really isn't any great pressure on it.
Design upgrade: make a V or triangle shape with the bolts connecting the jig to the glide for more tilt support (plane versus line). Probably not so necessary if it's attached very tightly, but might as well.
For those of us who do not have a rock wool radial jig, cut a straight line rather than cutting an arc. Then add T tracks to the back side of the angle jig oriented vertically, or cut a vertical channel for a through bolt. First, cut the channel in the backing board, then starting from one end, place a pencil through the channel and mark the center of the jig arm as it swings through the entire length of the channel. This will be the tension bolt's travel.
Very nice. I made a quick and dirty version of this a few weeks ago to make some odd angle cuts on plywood. And, while it worked, it lacked the ease and options that this thing has. Time to build round two. Love the plastic bolts to keep it tight to the fence. Much better than layering tape.
Like the jig. Love the micro adjustable piece. I did a similar micro adjustable jig over my fence,but my fence is extruded aluminum and old and bit rough . So I cut an old vertical plastic blind and put it between my fence and nylon bolts with a some double sided tape. If the blind wore out I could just replace it.
I made 3x3Custom's (Tamar) version of this jig for a project and the bridal joints came out nicely. But I like how in your version you can detach the larger board from the sliding component. I also like your adjustment knob idea to dial in the fit.
I will definitely be building this jig before building my next project (media cabinet will full extension storage drawers made from cherry ply and solid cherry drawer fronts). I really wanted to try making raised panels for the large drawers and now I have the jig to make it happen! Thanks!
I'm curious to why you did the toilet bolt flanges versus a threaded insert or 3 prong nuts? I'm also very curious about your specific Sawstop tablesaw as I'm about to purchase one. Specifically which add-ons and features you find essential for it.
Hello sir I greatly appreciate your TH-cam videos. I have learned a lot thanks to you.. The way you take the time to explain step-by-step and the reason why do things the way you do has been very helpful to a new woodworker like me I am interested in buying, your recent table saw jig. Please send me the link to where I can purchase the jig. Once again, thank you very much and God bless.
I love the project, it is very useful for thousands of things. A great job you have done with the T-Track. I would like you to make a simple router table sometime, for those of us who do DIY, I'm looking forward to making one with a Makita router, and I'm lost for ideas. A hug to the moth family, and long live the bourbon.
Tip: Instead of the complex flange making and gluing part…just tap threads directly through the ply and buy nylon bolts to suit. I do like this jig. Multi function and modular increases versatility and saves space…or as I like to say: Mfmivss😂
Im sure it's been mentioned, but an alternate solution to angled/adjustments would be a bolt/knob on the bottom T-track and a bolt/knob on the top t-track. Between these two, you could achieve a broader range of angles than the arc that you cut in. - just 2 cents.
Looks like it won't quite go to 45 deg. Maybe an add on hole at the top that takes it to a positive 45 would be beneficial. That's really my only comment on this jig. Super awesome jig!!
I think if you moved that curved slot lower on the jig below the top horizontal t-track that would allow for more travel in the jig, possibly achieving 45 degrees. Either way, awesome design.
Very nice and inspiring! Was just thinking you can also leave out the curve channel and make a channel cutout in your adjustable fence. Then slide a t-bolt in the top horizontal t-slot to go trough the opening in the fence for more angle range. Also avoiding the double side curve router work.
"Nylon toilet bolts" hehe I just finished a toilet total rebuild and found these same bolts then thought, there ought to be another issue for the nylon bolts. Haha, you best me to a good use. Thank you for the jig.
Hi, great video. I expect that the jig would be too tall for the less substantial fence on a contractor saw such as my small Sawstop though. But still, I expect that buying and adapting the melamine part of the jig with hardware would be cheaper than starting from scratch. I can’t find the link on your website.
I'm a tiler I've always cut aluminium trim with my elcheapo drop saw with a wood blade it's held up for near 10 years of it she's no precise furnituee work wood cutter but shes still good for chopping framing timber and the ally
It looks great and useful, but I think having the t-tracks going into the saw blade area is a design flaw, considering that you use a sawstop. I probably would have designed it in a way that no aluminium parts could be reached by the saw blade even if someone makes a mistake with the fence adjustment. Thanks for making awesome educational videos in such an entertaining way!
Just drove by the hardwood center on Wednesday (didn’t have time to stop) coming back from Toledo, Oregon with a load of 4x4’s . It will be interesting to see how much for finishing one , very cool jig
Enjoyed the video, just a couple of observations. So just on the angle element, you really didnt need to use the bolt as a pivot, or cut the arc hole. You have two parralel t-tracks and with a piece of wood with slots cut in it you can have angled section using the two horizontal t-track, that can actuall be more versitile. It can move much futher back and not be constrained to the pivot point. Other than that you could upgrade this to have quick release clamps for repetitive work.
Another awesome video, thank you! Maybe a ratcheting quick clamps would be simpler here or something similar to track master t track clamp, that way you don’t have to twist things back and forth
If you use a fence that you can clamp at a slight angle to the blade, the raises panel jig would cut a curve in the sides of the raised panel part. Just another option for the jig.
Your in Oregon"?!? Did not know that. SWEET> Might have to go down and get a few sheets of that black melemene. Thanks for the tip!! Now I know of 2 of my favorite woodworkers in Oregon, you and Cameron. Appreicate all you do. Already have your very heavy but highly accurate cross cut sled....this is my next project.
At 18.55 you could have put a t-track hold down on either side to act as a stop for your circle cutting jig. Thereby preventing you from hitting the t-track without stressing out. Just a thought. 🤔
I like the angle piece idea. Suggestion, make that piece longer at the bottom, let it go further below the screw, to provide additional support and support for smaller pieces. Will you be making and showing othe jigs to use the universal slide?
Nice! Plans ordered 😀 I had not realized until this video that you are in Oregon; do you ever have events or hang out sessions with your viewers? If so then I, as another Jason, would love to attend 😀
I think, there is a better way, but You would have to change the fence side and a pair of mag locks would hold it in place. I've never looked at the fence on a sawstop to see how to change the wood sides, but i belive they are T slots and t's hold them in place. What of its always flush with and is the fence, you make a on side coping sled to ride the tall wall with T track so its flush at the top and bottom. Now you can set your saw up to do joints 1/4 1/4 1/4 draws and cabnits stills and rails all using 1 jig.
Awesome build Jason... thought I was watching Izzy Swan for a minute. Far be it from me to question anything you do but, I wondered why you didn't use your Shaper Origin. None the less, I'm in for plans... thanks!! Blessings!!!
B-E-A-utiful!! You should be able to cut the curved channel through the t-track and almost all the way to the edges to get a wider angle range? Hey, it´s only aluminium, right?(As we say in Sweden)
For the adjustment bolts, perhaps it would be easier to use a simple wood tap to create threads, and then use some nylon knurled thumb screws. Generally they can be found at hardware stores, but if not there's always McMaster-Carr.
That’s actually on purpose. If you run the drill in reverse for a few rotations before drilling your hole you’ll eliminate any tear out. Especially on plywood
Very cool jig but it does not do 45°. If you moved your arc lower it would have swung further. Also I would not put the track to the edge of the melamine. It could scratch the table top or get hung up on the miter slot.
I doubt you'll have any issues with the epoxy holding, especially since the pressure isn't too much. But I wonder if you had made the box over the fence slightly wider & the installed the plastic inserts with the flange on the inside, it would be even more durable.
So does that jig allow for a 90 degree bridle joint? It doesn’t appear you can get your pieces to sit at a 45 from the table to do that or am I mistaken?
If you do produce these you may want to offset one of those 3 hand bolts up or down. Should help keep the vertical panel more stable over time since there won't be a single pivot point.
They’d be threaded flanged bosses, or threaded top-hat sections if you prefer. The flange is technically the brim of the top-hat. Zip, zap, now you know 👍🏻
Go to drinkag1.com/bourbonmoth to get a one year supply of vitamin D3+K2 and 5 AG1 travel packs with your first subscription. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today's video!
I built a similar jig a few years ago, specifically for panel inserts, and it works great. But your addition of that arc across the top, to make angled bridle joints, is absolutely BRILLIANT.
Hey Jason… I made this jig ,and I didn’t rip you off. I bought the plans. I used laminate on MDF instead of Melamine because it’s what I had. The laminate was too slick and the work piece, although clamped securely, would slip when passing through the blade.I added strips of adhesive backed sandpaper to the laminate and now it works perfectly. Oh, and I used my Bourbon Blade to trim the excess sandpaper. Great tool. Thanks for all you do. 👍🏻
It isn't often that i haven't found an unusual use for something but I never thought of toilet seat screws for slides. Thant is OUTSTANDING! I am using that one for alot of things.
The beard is coming back. I can finally trust what you tell me again.
Low-key hilarious comment
I’ve always trusted him. But now I can feel envy for both the tools *and* the beard.
I ❤ Jason's face!
🤣
ditto
Hi Jason, the plastic sleeve/nuts can be placed on the saw fence side so when the bolt is tightened it pulls the sleeve into the drilled hole. Your method means the Total Boat fixo is the only thing holding the sleeve in place. I don't think in your method and the amount of pressure the plastic screw will pull the sleeve out over time. But, being on the inside, the sleeve won't ever move.
good call. like a t-nut, right?
I figured someone else noticed that as well
I learned to make this jig 40 years ago from the GOAT! Norm Abrams..
Yes, but the GOAT was WISE and included triangular gussets between the vertical plate and the top of the "box" to ALWAYS ENSURE that the vertical plate was actually 90 degrees to the table top. What Jason built will become a RANDOM angle jig....because, ZIP, ZAP, ZOOP!! 🤣 😂 😅
Norm! He is great. Actually what makes me want to woodwork. I always enjoyed the NYW as well as TOH.
@@andrewsmith3121 You're right; I had forgotten that part.
@andrewsmith3121 I used one of the triangular gusset on my "oddball" jig as a handle. It is most choice. 😂
@@andrewsmith3121 Would love a link to Norm's jig...Thanks!
Being able to make tools like this is just as impressive as the furniture and cabinetry you've been doing. Very cool.
We need a zip zap zoop shirt
100% !!!!
Great fixture. Truly enjoyed your video. I am a somewhat of a "beginner" woodworker and can't afford the Saw Stop table saw. Way out of my budget. I currently have the Skil TS-6307-00 Table Saw. Besides the price, it had a lot of nice features like Rack and Pinion Fence, love the blade alignment feature (works great), two standard miter slots, locking fence mechanism, accommodates a dado stack, and others. The rip fence has a feature that I believe would make your table saw upgrade a bit difficult to adapt. There is a three position work support/auxiliary fence that seems it would get in the way. This auxiliary fence can be positioned to support the workpiece when the fence is extended to the right, beyond the table surface. It can be moved up a notch and sit on top of the table when cutting thin materials (3/4" or less) close to the blade. Finally, it can be flipped (rotated) over the fence and stored out of the way, on the right side of the fence. I just don't see a way to adapt your design to accommodate this fence.
Very nice jig. Thanks for posting this.
I was noticing that for the cross T track, if they are let's say 3 inches from center of cross, then instead of cutting your dado 4 inches from the edge and making a new t track leg to fit, just move your dado to 3 inches from the edge so the included factory cut piece just fits from that edge. And do that for all the edges.
Also, for your angle fence, instead of cutting a curved slot in the base of the jig, just use the top t track. But instead of just having a hole in the top of the fence, cut a long slot in the center of the fence lengthwise. Then move your bolt along the t track and it will slide through the slot in the fence. That might be simpler and safer than cutting an arc in the jig.
Keep up the great content.
Great jig. You could put the flange of the toilet adjuster countersunk on the inside. The flange would push against the wood instead of trying to pull out of the wood. And if the barrel of the flange is too long, it would stick out the back. Which wouldn't be a problem and give you full threads. Details, details. What you have in the video would work absolutely great though since there really isn't any great pressure on it.
Finally, a jig to get the angle of the dangle right. Its pretty slick
If you cut slots for t-track on the back... Then it's a tenoning board. Just detach from the fence box and lay it on the table saw. All in one!
Another great video, so well done. Have a great week.
Design upgrade: make a V or triangle shape with the bolts connecting the jig to the glide for more tilt support (plane versus line). Probably not so necessary if it's attached very tightly, but might as well.
For those of us who do not have a rock wool radial jig, cut a straight line rather than cutting an arc. Then add T tracks to the back side of the angle jig oriented vertically, or cut a vertical channel for a through bolt. First, cut the channel in the backing board, then starting from one end, place a pencil through the channel and mark the center of the jig arm as it swings through the entire length of the channel. This will be the tension bolt's travel.
Very nice. I made a quick and dirty version of this a few weeks ago to make some odd angle cuts on plywood. And, while it worked, it lacked the ease and options that this thing has. Time to build round two. Love the plastic bolts to keep it tight to the fence. Much better than layering tape.
Like the jig. Love the micro adjustable piece. I did a similar micro adjustable jig over my fence,but my fence is extruded aluminum and old and bit rough . So I cut an old vertical plastic blind and put it between my fence and nylon bolts with a some double sided tape. If the blind wore out I could just replace it.
I made 3x3Custom's (Tamar) version of this jig for a project and the bridal joints came out nicely. But I like how in your version you can detach the larger board from the sliding component. I also like your adjustment knob idea to dial in the fit.
I will definitely be building this jig before building my next project (media cabinet will full extension storage drawers made from cherry ply and solid cherry drawer fronts). I really wanted to try making raised panels for the large drawers and now I have the jig to make it happen! Thanks!
At least your honest about it! Nice jig I'll have to build one!
I'm curious to why you did the toilet bolt flanges versus a threaded insert or 3 prong nuts? I'm also very curious about your specific Sawstop tablesaw as I'm about to purchase one. Specifically which add-ons and features you find essential for it.
I'm a wood worker beginner. Your videos inspire me alot thanks for sharing your knowledge
Hello sir I greatly appreciate your TH-cam videos. I have learned a lot thanks to you.. The way you take the time to explain step-by-step and the reason why do things the way you do has been very helpful to a new woodworker like me I am interested in buying, your recent table saw jig. Please send me the link to where I can purchase the jig. Once again, thank you very much and God bless.
Awesome you found something that is way out there to fix the slop
I love the project, it is very useful for thousands of things.
A great job you have done with the T-Track.
I would like you to make a simple router table sometime, for those of us who do DIY, I'm looking forward to making one with a Makita router, and I'm lost for ideas.
A hug to the moth family, and long live the bourbon.
Tip: Instead of the complex flange making and gluing part…just tap threads directly through the ply and buy nylon bolts to suit. I do like this jig. Multi function and modular increases versatility and saves space…or as I like to say: Mfmivss😂
Im sure it's been mentioned, but an alternate solution to angled/adjustments would be a bolt/knob on the bottom T-track and a bolt/knob on the top t-track. Between these two, you could achieve a broader range of angles than the arc that you cut in. - just 2 cents.
Looks like it won't quite go to 45 deg. Maybe an add on hole at the top that takes it to a positive 45 would be beneficial. That's really my only comment on this jig. Super awesome jig!!
I think if you moved that curved slot lower on the jig below the top horizontal t-track that would allow for more travel in the jig, possibly achieving 45 degrees. Either way, awesome design.
Really good idea. I look forward to being able to buy one.
Very nice and inspiring!
Was just thinking you can also leave out the curve channel and make a channel cutout in your adjustable fence.
Then slide a t-bolt in the top horizontal t-slot to go trough the opening in the fence for more angle range. Also avoiding the double side curve router work.
If you set up a temporary fence at an angle, you can use your jig to make cove cuts instead of straight angular cuts.
Cut a vertical slot in the adjustable fence and then you can use the upper T-track to set the angle and make the design simpler.
Toilet seat screws were a very nice idea. I’ve always saved a few,now I know what to do with them. 🫡
Very nice, this has been on my list of things to make, and now I have a few more ideas to put on it
"Nylon toilet bolts" hehe
I just finished a toilet total rebuild and found these same bolts then thought, there ought to be another issue for the nylon bolts. Haha, you best me to a good use. Thank you for the jig.
Hi, great video. I expect that the jig would be too tall for the less substantial fence on a contractor saw such as my small Sawstop though. But still, I expect that buying and adapting the melamine part of the jig with hardware would be cheaper than starting from scratch. I can’t find the link on your website.
This will be my first jig. I will adapt it to my sliding table.
that melamine ply is great for forming up an epoxy river table. just ask Cam.
What a great idea Jason definitely going to get the plans for this one .
Wow! What an awesome jig! Great job Jason.
I'm a tiler I've always cut aluminium trim with my elcheapo drop saw with a wood blade it's held up for near 10 years of it she's no precise furnituee work wood cutter but shes still good for chopping framing timber and the ally
You can also use this jig horizontal to make a straight edge without a jointer.
It looks great and useful, but I think having the t-tracks going into the saw blade area is a design flaw, considering that you use a sawstop.
I probably would have designed it in a way that no aluminium parts could be reached by the saw blade even if someone makes a mistake with the fence adjustment.
Thanks for making awesome educational videos in such an entertaining way!
Just drove by the hardwood center on Wednesday (didn’t have time to stop) coming back from Toledo, Oregon with a load of 4x4’s . It will be interesting to see how much for finishing one , very cool jig
Enjoyed the video, just a couple of observations. So just on the angle element, you really didnt need to use the bolt as a pivot, or cut the arc hole. You have two parralel t-tracks and with a piece of wood with slots cut in it you can have angled section using the two horizontal t-track, that can actuall be more versitile. It can move much futher back and not be constrained to the pivot point. Other than that you could upgrade this to have quick release clamps for repetitive work.
Phalanges, correct! Used also in aviation, I remember one plane was stopped from take off cause there were no phalanges on board!
Flange
I enjoyed the video. One suggestion though, move the arc closer to the pivot point to increase the angle capacity.
Man that is an awesome jig. Great work.
Another awesome video, thank you! Maybe a ratcheting quick clamps would be simpler here or something similar to track master t track clamp, that way you don’t have to twist things back and forth
Okay, I'll just say it, this seems on the farside of genius!
If you use a fence that you can clamp at a slight angle to the blade, the raises panel jig would cut a curve in the sides of the raised panel part. Just another option for the jig.
Yeaaahhhh! Happy Saturday!
22:41 I spit my mouth full of breakfast (can of monster) out at this point. I was not expecting that. Love this guy.
Your in Oregon"?!? Did not know that. SWEET> Might have to go down and get a few sheets of that black melemene. Thanks for the tip!! Now I know of 2 of my favorite woodworkers in Oregon, you and Cameron. Appreicate all you do. Already have your very heavy but highly accurate cross cut sled....this is my next project.
Love this, so need to make one before I build my kitchen!
Fantastic jig. Thanks!
Think you could add a function to your jig to cut splines??
At 18.55 you could have put a t-track hold down on either side to act as a stop for your circle cutting jig.
Thereby preventing you from hitting the t-track without stressing out. Just a thought. 🤔
I like the angle piece idea. Suggestion, make that piece longer at the bottom, let it go further below the screw, to provide additional support and support for smaller pieces. Will you be making and showing othe jigs to use the universal slide?
This is a cool jig! How do you make sure the white screws are keeping it completely straight along the fence?
Now you should add a rail for the miter slot so you can take it off the fence jig and use it as a tampering jig. That would make it complete.
Thanks for another great jig and video.
Nice! Plans ordered 😀 I had not realized until this video that you are in Oregon; do you ever have events or hang out sessions with your viewers? If so then I, as another Jason, would love to attend 😀
Do you need to do something to ensure it is squared to the surface of your table saw? If it's not, what would you do to adjust it?
Make an alternate fence with magswitch hold downs and you can make skewed cuts across the fence for rounded raised panels.
Very very cool I’ll be starting this tomorrow night. Thanks!
Love your videos ,brother. That is a good looking jig , very useful !
I made one already , suggestion i used toggle clamps faster than hold downs just saying
Dovetail clamps would work just a well.
I think, there is a better way, but
You would have to change the fence side and a pair of mag locks would hold it in place.
I've never looked at the fence on a sawstop to see how to change the wood sides, but i belive they are T slots and t's hold them in place.
What of its always flush with and is the fence, you make a on side coping sled to ride the tall wall with T track so its flush at the top and bottom.
Now you can set your saw up to do joints 1/4 1/4 1/4 draws and cabnits stills and rails all using 1 jig.
Awesome build Jason... thought I was watching Izzy Swan for a minute. Far be it from me to question anything you do but, I wondered why you didn't use your Shaper Origin. None the less, I'm in for plans... thanks!! Blessings!!!
Does your dust collection work or do you even have it turned on? 9:38
B-E-A-utiful!! You should be able to cut the curved channel through the t-track and almost all the way to the edges to get a wider angle range? Hey, it´s only aluminium, right?(As we say in Sweden)
For the adjustment bolts, perhaps it would be easier to use a simple wood tap to create threads, and then use some nylon knurled thumb screws. Generally they can be found at hardware stores, but if not there's always McMaster-Carr.
"I quickly realized it would be nice to have a handle..." I conveniently have a handle right here 🤣
That is a sweet jig!
7:46 drill in reverse, noticed on second hole? 😂 Happens to me all the time, glad to see the pros do this to.
That’s actually on purpose. If you run the drill in reverse for a few rotations before drilling your hole you’ll eliminate any tear out. Especially on plywood
@@Bourbonmoth didn’t know, thank you for that !
Nice job Jason, interesting too.
Nice first time seeing this kind of build
Nifty. I'm going to make something similar to attach to my crosscut sled.
Very cool jig but it does not do 45°. If you moved your arc lower it would have swung further. Also I would not put the track to the edge of the melamine. It could scratch the table top or get hung up on the miter slot.
Build your own jig and point us to your video
Nice build!
Nice video.. Helpful and entertaining.. Like the fact you have a dart board in the background.. Dart player, Cape Town, South africa.. 👌😊
I doubt you'll have any issues with the epoxy holding, especially since the pressure isn't too much. But I wonder if you had made the box over the fence slightly wider & the installed the plastic inserts with the flange on the inside, it would be even more durable.
Awesome Job. I want one.
Gonna do the same with microjig matchfit instead of t-track! Thanks for the video and sorry to rip you off 😂
After tightening the backside of jig with toilet bolts, how do you keep this very useful jig plumb to the blade?
Phalanges is the plural of phalanx or the small bones in your fingers & toes, but that’s beside the point. Nice video!!
That looks amazing.
So does that jig allow for a 90 degree bridle joint? It doesn’t appear you can get your pieces to sit at a 45 from the table to do that or am I mistaken?
Any idea when this jig will be available?
thats a good design Jason
Thanks for the tip off about the rip off Jason. LOL 👍👍👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣
8:40 That pocket knife/chisel Where to get one?
Sweet jig, professional and safe--like it!! It even looks bear proof 😉😉🧸🧸
I’m thinking an upgrade on the angle cutting guide arm to the black melamine would look sweet. Maybe with some blue banding on the edges.
If you do produce these you may want to offset one of those 3 hand bolts up or down. Should help keep the vertical panel more stable over time since there won't be a single pivot point.
Not necessary
They’d be threaded flanged bosses, or threaded top-hat sections if you prefer. The flange is technically the brim of the top-hat. Zip, zap, now you know 👍🏻