For the sacrificial fence part, the last place I worked had a clever solution for that. They used a T-slotted sacrificial fence (I don't know if they made it themselves or not), then in the backer fence, a couple T-bolts stick out to tighten it down by hand from behind. So as you need something to be zero clearance, you can slide the sacrificial fence into the blade path 1/8" at a time, tighten it down, and cut, very handy. Of course, this consumes the sacrificial fence little by little, but it's over the course of years, and is easily replaced. Hope I explained that properly, it's the best system I've seen.
for anyone that has a saw stop, or other safety saw: If you cut aluminum, it will trip your system. so make sure it never touches your saw blade, while the system is active. most saws have a bypass mode to let you cut it. also, if you make a sled like this, notch out a bigger area of the aluminum track, so it never touches your saw, while in use.
To add to this, when you place your saw in bypass mode, it’s only good for just that cut. When you stop the blade and start it again, it won’t be in bypass mode anymore.
I wish my real life shop was like the youtube shop you have where its magical and you tell me what we are building and there is magically gorgeous stocks of wood stacked and ready to go. lol. I dream man.
Retired 47 year law enforcement veteran looking for a hobby and your videos helped me decide. So many other show tools and their capabilities, how to buy from them and very little about actual woodworking. Keep them coming. I enjoy watching and learning from you. Dave from Georgia
That’s for sure- I can usually make something nice out of the crap I have laying around, but mine look more like a science fair project than a slick setup like this
Your K.I.S.S. Method for the top layer with the T-track is perfect! I’ve been putting off making my sled but your cuts make it easier than running a dado slot to fit the T-track. Going with a 1/2” base though to save a little weight and a slight more blade height. Thanks for the video.
So glad to read your reply. I’m working on one tomorrow (at least that’s the plan) and am using ½” birch too. I may use ¾ for the fence near my hands; front/back (there seems to be a debate).
I love you man. You are saving me so much money. My wife and I are in the process of planning to remodel our kitchen, however, we went, and please don't get upset, to Home Depot to purchase butcher block counter tops, flooring, tile and cabinets. I was blown away by the high prices and low quality that they offer. I am a tradesman and know that I can build it all myself, however, I have never built cabinets or counter tops before. After watching your videos I inventoried my tools and found that I have all I need to make my cabinets, shaker style doors and butcher block counter tops already. All I have to purchase is a DADO and a hidden hinge jig. In the end we will have a custom high quality kitchen remodel that will look like we spent two to three times as much but the savings will be in the work that we will be doing ourselves. I appreciate you sharing your craft with the world and by the way, you are funny as all get out. Thanks again.
Happy customer here. I purchased the plans. A bit of constructive criticism: I watched the video before purchasing the plans and didn't even notice it, but in the plans you refer to the front and back fences in a way that is backwards to me. The front fence to me would be the portion that enters the blade first. In my mind I'm standing at the rear of the saw. The blade spins towards me, which in my mind means the back or rear fence is the one closest to me. Fantastic plans and amazing videos - just felt it was worth mentioning pointing out. Kudos!
Love this book! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
Hey, Jason thanks so much for all your how-to videos, I just got into the woodworking hobby by force, my daughter needed a table/counter extension for her new apartment. It had to be an exact fit, so I thought what the heck give it a try. Long story short, it turned out not too bad for a rookie. Now I'm hooked on woodworking and love making stuff. The cross-cut sled was a game-changer, love it. Thanks again and love your humour. You are an inspiration to me, to keep trying new things.
Terrific! I need to build a new sled and decided to browse for inspiration; knew I'd get just what I need with some Bourbon! My only question is about using 3/4" vs 1/2" ply, curious what the community thinks of the tradeoff. Giving up 1.5" of cut depth on a 10" saw seems like a LOT. Any down-sides to going with 1/2" ply?
Nice build overall. Use the extruded aluminum as the main back fence and secure from the bottom of the sled. Add sacrificial fences to the front using T-nuts in the channels and replace as necessary for thin/regular/dado kerfs. The stop extends out so it is still usable. Notch out the extruded aluminum 1" and that removes the potential trigger on SawStop saws.
Awesome build and entertaining as always. With mine, I bored out a hole in my workbench so I could drop in a piece of ~22mm dowel to act as an end stop. That way I can't push the blade through the back of the 'hand reminder' block if I have accidentally used it as a handle..
Lots of good ideas here! Especially the swappable insert. I'd only want to drop some of the weight. I've had extra large sleds with big cut outs on the base and aluminum tube instead of the 1.5" ply wood ends.
Would be curious how you handle crosscut sleds for a job site saw. That's all I have at the moment and I wish I had the outflow table/side table setup you have.
I made something like the sled in the video for the 8.25 inch DeWalt DWE7485 table saw. It's a lot smaller, about 24" x 24", but so far it works great. Getting the width of the runners perfect and leaving a little space depth-wise, so the slots don't bottom out, is pretty important. Zero wobble.
Absolutely loved this video! Going to recreate your sled this week. Thus the first video of yours I have viewed - your instructions, camera work and banter are without equal! Thank you
incredible stuff here....GOLD..........thanks for sharing this. I think the only thing i'd change is adding threaded recessed screws for easy attachment and removal and reattachment of the blade/dado cover piece.
@@Steadfast_Faith 1) checking with a square is prone to error and relies on the accuracy (or not) of the square 2) putting shims behind the fence could cause the fence to bend causing innacuracy.
Nice, looks great... but instead of stacking up additional plywood inside I would have sunk the T-tracks and the zero clearance part in the base plate with a router, so I would not lose too much sawblade hight.
You don’t lose too much height. If you want to dado a t-track slot then you need 3/4” plywood. But with the 2-layer model you can use 1/2” plywood, for a total height of 1”. So this 2-layer sled is only 1/4” taller than a single layer 3/4” sled.
dude. you're doing a hell of a job. these are funny as hell. And super helpful. [robot voice] I am going to join bespoke post just because they are sponsoring you.
Nice build. Curious how much depth of cut you have with having 1-1/2” thick crosscut sled? Just an FYI dado stack and that aluminum might not turn out well.
It's gotten to the point where I'll watch other woodworkers' videos and as they're assembling their pieces, I hear YOUR voice say "Aaaaand, we're just gonna hook 'em together with..." It's crazy. You're in my head, dude...
The "hump" in the fence serves two purposes: 1. Strength where the thru cut is and 2. Keep your fingers away from the blade. I put a hump on the front fence too, but might not be very functional with the stop you are using. I always size the hump so that my fingertips can't reach the blade.
Great video and idea! I appreciate your “humor” throughout! Idk what that says about me (or you, for that matter!) but it makes it fun AND entertaining.
I am assuming you wouldn't want to do the aluminum backer with a SawStop... BUT I bet for the SawStop users out there, we could always gap the fence an inch or so on either side of the blade with some wood Also, do you find that by adding the secondary base with the T-Track that your blade doesn't reach as high? Or do you mostly just use the sled for cutting thinner material?
Your ode to The Shire flute music deserved an applause. Loving your videos. Small scale woodworker from the PNW and have learned a great deal from you. Keep them coming. Cheers!
Why, were you gonna follow this guide of making a sled with shit no one has lying around? Lol. If anyone knows a channel for the regular person, without festools in their shop, someone link me.
Enjoy the show, put a big smile on my face thank you! Look forward to building my sled LOL that you have just built. Can’t wait to see the next project
@@davidmj54 move top pieces back to single blade width. Granted, I have not done this myself. I now have a small and large cross-cut sled, but none for dados. The kerf on my big sled has gotten chewed up, so yesterday I added Bondo to the kerf and will be cutting it next cross-cut. I have also used Bondo on a regular table saw insert to make one zero clearance.
Okay, I have to say this, and don’t let it go to your head... but this is possibly the best crosscut sled concept I’ve seen. I have a long and passionate love-hate relationship with my crosscut sleds. I’ve built and scrapped several of the things over the years, and with use have always found flaws that make me crazy. This sled addresses every issue I’ve had. And yes, JKM’s stop is amazing.
@@tedcox3586 I'm a professional woodworker. I will use it on something so buying two or three extra pieces when I build cabinets isn't a big deal for me. The thing is that the time I spend going back to the plywood store cost more than buying a few extra. The same with lumber. I have like 2000 board feet of lumber in my shop minimum. Ranging from oak to pine. If I get commissioned to do a job I have the lumber to do it. It's seasoned in my shop and ready to start production.
I think I would have used 1/4 or 3/8 plywood on the bottom. The problem with using the 3/4 plywood, is you have reduced your depth of cutting ability. The front and rear faces would have held it straight and flat....as would have the thicker plywood added to the inside. That's my only constructive criticism to add.
You popped up on my suggested feeds after I've been watching WWMM and WWW for a while. Great Advice, Great Humour, Great Beard, Great Tunes. *subscribed*
How do we fix that? I love the idea, but I need one a lot thinner. If you cut dados into the plywood for the T-track, then it will make the whole thing flimsy. Maybe make one out of metal to keep it strong but thin? Maybe add metal bracing to wood to strengthen it in places?
@@charlieodom9107 Ya, I noticed how thick it was too by the end. I think if you were to build it with ALL materials being half as thick... by the time everything was screwed and glued it would be plenty sturdy.
@@urwholefamilydied a 3/4" sled would give me 2.5" or so cut depth, which I believe is more than enough for my little saw. I'm building a new tablesaw out of a cheap Ryobi plastic portable saw right now. The plastic one was too flimsy, but there was nothing wrong with the motor or mechanical bits. My top will be 3/4", with further stiffening under the area where T-Track will be placed. I'm still working on mounting the motor to the front of the new cabinet, but I believe I'll have just over 3" of cut depth once finished.
maybe make the first layer out of 1/4" instead of 1/2" that would get you anothter 1/4" lol. or maybe the 2nd layer could be 3/8" then you got a total savings of 1/2"... that otta be enough thinness for anyone lol. jk :)
For a really simply and completely precise way to check for square, I recommend the five-side-cut method. Take a board about 12" on each side. Cut an inch off one side. Put that side against the fence, repeat; repeat again, and repeat again, until all four sides have been cut. THEN slide the board over and make a 1" cut and check the width of the 1" board with calipers. To see it done, go to "5 Cuts to a "Perfect" Cross-cut Sled" at th-cam.com/video/UbG-n--LFgQ/w-d-xo.html.
For an even better and faster method I suggest using a dial indicator and an accurate 90 degree reference square, the longer the better. Clamp the square to your fence, set up the dial indicator with a magmount base near the tip of your reference square such that the tip of the dial indicator rides on the edge of the square. Zero the indicator to 0. Push the sled forward and backward. Once you have the fence showing very little deflection, you are golden. I shoot for 0-0.002 thou. After that you can lock down your test cuts and use the 5 cut method, if you like. Alternatively, you might try the Rob Cosman method of attaching the fence. He takes the base piece and cuts a rabbit along the edge where the fence goes. Then when he attaches the fence in the rabbit, it is already square. If it isn't, your saw or it's fence needs tuning up.
BTW, I know that this video was on how to build a sled but I watched this after watching your cabinet build series and the video on going to a lumber center to select your wood rather than the big box store. Just in case your wondering.👍
One last addon you need. A piece of adhesive backed measuring tape, put on the top of your rear panel and zero'd using your stop. Youll just need to slide the stop to the measurement you want and lock it in place. Did that on my cross cut sled, adds so much usefulness.
Sweet sled. Nice when the "crap" in your shop includes a $70 sheet of plywood. I should be so lucky. Now I know what to do with that left over T-track. Thanks man.
I built almost this exact cross-cut sled. Thanks for the idea of using the extruded aluminum. And ... it was as easy as you said to shim it. I got it to within 1/1000 inch to square! And, putting the t-track on the sled was also a piece of cake. You are a genius!.
Great video thanks. The same rail and stop would work great on a drill press fence. I like the stops on my drill press to flip up out of the way so I can have several settings.
Thanks to Bespoke Post for sponsoring this video! Head to bspk.me/moth and use code moth20 to learn more and get 20% off your first box.
Cool sled, gotta stupid question, probably. Anyone ever tried using pop rivets in wood?
They don’t ship to Australia 😕
I just realized we are only about a half hour drive apart. I would love to collaborate with you sometime when the world gets back on track.
Boo more boat!
For the sacrificial fence part, the last place I worked had a clever solution for that. They used a T-slotted sacrificial fence (I don't know if they made it themselves or not), then in the backer fence, a couple T-bolts stick out to tighten it down by hand from behind. So as you need something to be zero clearance, you can slide the sacrificial fence into the blade path 1/8" at a time, tighten it down, and cut, very handy. Of course, this consumes the sacrificial fence little by little, but it's over the course of years, and is easily replaced. Hope I explained that properly, it's the best system I've seen.
Great stuff! Thanks for the shout out bud! Glad you like it!
I grabbed one of those stops over a year ago... it’s awesome (the apron is not bad either, JKM 😉)
@@Chev56 thanks brother!
I love mine. That have proven to be most useful.
I'm definitely buying one soon. I've been wanting that stop for at least a year now haha.
Im getting one of those woodworking aprons at Christmas time for sure!
for anyone that has a saw stop, or other safety saw: If you cut aluminum, it will trip your system. so make sure it never touches your saw blade, while the system is active. most saws have a bypass mode to let you cut it. also, if you make a sled like this, notch out a bigger area of the aluminum track, so it never touches your saw, while in use.
Yep!!
You can also place the saw stop in bypass mode to cut aluminum
The world needs more comments like this. I'd have not thought about this until I encountered the problem. Thanks.
To add to this, when you place your saw in bypass mode, it’s only good for just that cut. When you stop the blade and start it again, it won’t be in bypass mode anymore.
I JUST got one and wouldn't have even thought of this. THANK YOU!!!!!
I wish my real life shop was like the youtube shop you have where its magical and you tell me what we are building and there is magically gorgeous stocks of wood stacked and ready to go. lol. I dream man.
Retired 47 year law enforcement veteran looking for a hobby and your videos helped me decide. So many other show tools and their capabilities, how to buy from them and very little about actual woodworking. Keep them coming. I enjoy watching and learning from you. Dave from Georgia
The "crap" you have lying around your shop is way nicer than the crap I have in mine...
I've gotta make my sled out of dried leaves, cobwebs, and some baby toys.
Yea the the back t track is 50 bucks with the clamps being 15 a piece like fu$& that sled is expensive
It’s nicer than the stuff I buy!!!
One man's crap is another man's.....idk.
That’s for sure- I can usually make something nice out of the crap I have laying around, but mine look more like a science fair project than a slick setup like this
Your K.I.S.S. Method for the top layer with the T-track is perfect! I’ve been putting off making my sled but your cuts make it easier than running a dado slot to fit the T-track. Going with a 1/2” base though to save a little weight and a slight more blade height. Thanks for the video.
Yeah this design is smart. Good idea about the 1/2" base to save on weight and height 👍
So glad to read your reply. I’m working on one tomorrow (at least that’s the plan) and am using ½” birch too. I may use ¾ for the fence near my hands; front/back (there seems to be a debate).
I love you man. You are saving me so much money. My wife and I are in the process of planning to remodel our kitchen, however, we went, and please don't get upset, to Home Depot to purchase butcher block counter tops, flooring, tile and cabinets. I was blown away by the high prices and low quality that they offer. I am a tradesman and know that I can build it all myself, however, I have never built cabinets or counter tops before. After watching your videos I inventoried my tools and found that I have all I need to make my cabinets, shaker style doors and butcher block counter tops already. All I have to purchase is a DADO and a hidden hinge jig. In the end we will have a custom high quality kitchen remodel that will look like we spent two to three times as much but the savings will be in the work that we will be doing ourselves. I appreciate you sharing your craft with the world and by the way, you are funny as all get out. Thanks again.
What size sled base did you with?
Happy customer here. I purchased the plans. A bit of constructive criticism: I watched the video before purchasing the plans and didn't even notice it, but in the plans you refer to the front and back fences in a way that is backwards to me. The front fence to me would be the portion that enters the blade first. In my mind I'm standing at the rear of the saw. The blade spins towards me, which in my mind means the back or rear fence is the one closest to me.
Fantastic plans and amazing videos - just felt it was worth mentioning pointing out. Kudos!
Love this book! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
Hey, Jason thanks so much for all your how-to videos, I just got into the woodworking hobby by force, my daughter needed a table/counter extension for her new apartment. It had to be an exact fit, so I thought what the heck give it a try. Long story short, it turned out not too bad for a rookie. Now I'm hooked on woodworking and love making stuff. The cross-cut sled was a game-changer, love it.
Thanks again and love your humour. You are an inspiration to me, to keep trying new things.
That track fits a piece of 3/4 ply cut end-long perfectly.
Terrific! I need to build a new sled and decided to browse for inspiration; knew I'd get just what I need with some Bourbon!
My only question is about using 3/4" vs 1/2" ply, curious what the community thinks of the tradeoff. Giving up 1.5" of cut depth on a 10" saw seems like a LOT. Any down-sides to going with 1/2" ply?
This is what was thinking. That finished product was super thick.
every time I watch one of your videos I immediately run away and spend money. Great ideas!
Nice build overall. Use the extruded aluminum as the main back fence and secure from the bottom of the sled. Add sacrificial fences to the front using T-nuts in the channels and replace as necessary for thin/regular/dado kerfs. The stop extends out so it is still usable.
Notch out the extruded aluminum 1" and that removes the potential trigger on SawStop saws.
Loving that Great Wall of Woodpecker! I’m envious 😊
Awesome build and entertaining as always.
With mine, I bored out a hole in my workbench so I could drop in a piece of ~22mm dowel to act as an end stop. That way I can't push the blade through the back of the 'hand reminder' block if I have accidentally used it as a handle..
Lots of good ideas here! Especially the swappable insert. I'd only want to drop some of the weight. I've had extra large sleds with big cut outs on the base and aluminum tube instead of the 1.5" ply wood ends.
Would be curious how you handle crosscut sleds for a job site saw. That's all I have at the moment and I wish I had the outflow table/side table setup you have.
There isn't a need for an outflow table. I had a dewalt job site saw with a sled and used that for years.
I made something like the sled in the video for the 8.25 inch DeWalt DWE7485 table saw. It's a lot smaller, about 24" x 24", but so far it works great. Getting the width of the runners perfect and leaving a little space depth-wise, so the slots don't bottom out, is pretty important. Zero wobble.
One of the better subscription's if you like comedy skits and woodworking knowledge.
Absolutely loved this video! Going to recreate your sled this week.
Thus the first video of yours I have viewed - your instructions, camera work and banter are without equal!
Thank you
incredible stuff here....GOLD..........thanks for sharing this. I think the only thing i'd change is adding threaded recessed screws for easy attachment and removal and reattachment of the blade/dado cover piece.
This is my favorite woodworking channel on the internet.
Listening to the tune you were playing, I feel better about my LOTR dorkness, I am glad that I am not the only one out there.
I'd recommend the 5 cut method for perfect squareness.
Why? If it's perfectly square the way he did it, why do the 5 cut method?
@@Steadfast_Faith 1) checking with a square is prone to error and relies on the accuracy (or not) of the square 2) putting shims behind the fence could cause the fence to bend causing innacuracy.
Very intuitive, super photography, and I love your comments!!
Nice, looks great... but instead of stacking up additional plywood inside I would have sunk the T-tracks and the zero clearance part in the base plate with a router, so I would not lose too much sawblade hight.
But then he loses the dado adjustment capabilities he wanted, right?
@@scottburkhardt6859 hmmm .... don't think so ... why?
You don’t lose too much height. If you want to dado a t-track slot then you need 3/4” plywood. But with the 2-layer model you can use 1/2” plywood, for a total height of 1”. So this 2-layer sled is only 1/4” taller than a single layer 3/4” sled.
Very nice. I plan to use 1/2 inch ply instead of 3/4 in order to gain 1/2 inch more blade high on my version. Thanks for the Idea and sharing.
You gain 1/4 inch that way. If you want gain 1/2 inch, use dovetails inside the 3/4-inch base instead of these t tracks.
@@langrock74 My bad yea 1/4 inch gain.
I love how after he is done using the cross cut sled he just made for the entire video he finally adds the safety block after he is all done.
That's the weirdest boat I've ever seen.
Don't put your hand there. Duh.
Hey Jason that is the best cross-cut sled I've seen so far.
Loving your channel! Thanks for the video. Think I'll go ahead and get one of these Katz Moses stops. :]
BoOom!
dude. you're doing a hell of a job. these are funny as hell. And super helpful. [robot voice] I am going to join bespoke post just because they are sponsoring you.
Easiest way to find a lost thing is buy a replacement. I usually end up parking the new one right next to the "lost" one!
True story
I laugh because it is true.
Haha that happened with my old mitre guage
Best video for cross cut sled I've seen, will definitely be making one.
That's a really thick crosscut sled. And I thought my 18mm (~3/4 inch) one was heavy. :D
At least you found the T track the last place you looked!!!!!
I sure could use one of those.
NICE WORK.
Nice build. Curious how much depth of cut you have with having 1-1/2” thick crosscut sled? Just an FYI dado stack and that aluminum might not turn out well.
Nice and easy to follow. I made a sled but will add the features you showed. Thank you.....
That was a solid Lord of the Rings hobbit theme on the tin whistle, Jason. Nice sled build as well ;)
Came here to say the same thing!
Without a doubt best sled I have seen. I like the aluminum back more.
It'd be interesting to see how straight you think it is by doing the 5 cut test!!! ;)
DUDE....I love your clamp wall.
It's gotten to the point where I'll watch other woodworkers' videos and as they're assembling their pieces, I hear YOUR voice say "Aaaaand, we're just gonna hook 'em together with..."
It's crazy. You're in my head, dude...
hollywood is looking for this guy!!!!
when you use your dado set won't it cut a wide groove through your aluminum fence?
I wish the “crap” laying around my shop were that nice lol
This the absolutely best table saw sled video tutorial, EvEr!
The "hump" in the fence serves two purposes: 1. Strength where the thru cut is and 2. Keep your fingers away from the blade. I put a hump on the front fence too, but might not be very functional with the stop you are using. I always size the hump so that my fingertips can't reach the blade.
Great video and idea! I appreciate your “humor” throughout! Idk what that says about me (or you, for that matter!) but it makes it fun AND entertaining.
I am assuming you wouldn't want to do the aluminum backer with a SawStop... BUT I bet for the SawStop users out there, we could always gap the fence an inch or so on either side of the blade with some wood
Also, do you find that by adding the secondary base with the T-Track that your blade doesn't reach as high? Or do you mostly just use the sled for cutting thinner material?
I was thinking that same thing, but I'm realizing instead of that extruded Al, we could just use a second piece of plywood with the t-track on top
@@TomHoppe It didn't do me any good. Bangx2 ($130)
Your ode to The Shire flute music deserved an applause. Loving your videos. Small scale woodworker from the PNW and have learned a great deal from you. Keep them coming. Cheers!
Very helpful! Thanks for sharing!
i have watched other wood workers and you do the best
5 cut method for squaring a fence, easy to do, more accurate
More accurate than a perfectly square cut the way he did it?
@@Steadfast_Faith Yes, but it requires math skilz
I'd say for 99% of people this is accurate enough!
You had really nice things laying around your shop
I was so excited to see a new notification thinking “BOAT!!!!” But you know what? A table saw sled will do just fine. 😉
I like your presentations. Simple and fun. Thanks
I’m literally in the middle of building a cross cut sled. Now I wish I had waited another 24 hours.
Why, were you gonna follow this guide of making a sled with shit no one has lying around? Lol. If anyone knows a channel for the regular person, without festools in their shop, someone link me.
@@SR-te2db izzy swan every day ever
@@SR-te2db woodworkingformeremortals
@@SR-te2db I'm managing just fine without the specialty tools. End result much the same. Simple sled , keep it simple stu**d ;-)
Lol man great vid. Just came across this and checked it out. I love the teaching and the humor. I definitely subscribed. Be blessed
I am waiting for the boat bro ...! However , nice vedio as usual 🤨
Been watching your videos for a while and love them. Love the comedy as well 🤣🤣
You and Jonathan Katz-Moses should do a video together! Also nice sled!
Agreed!
Enjoy the show, put a big smile on my face thank you! Look forward to building my sled LOL that you have just built. Can’t wait to see the next project
JKM is such a swell dude
I heard he's a mouth breather
your top ply add on solves my dilemma of zero clearance for different blades including dads stacks. I will be modifying my existing sled. thanks 😊
I am trying to figure that part. When he does the dado, how do you revert back to the narrow blade?
@@davidmj54 move top pieces back to single blade width. Granted, I have not done this myself. I now have a small and large cross-cut sled, but none for dados. The kerf on my big sled has gotten chewed up, so yesterday I added Bondo to the kerf and will be cutting it next cross-cut. I have also used Bondo on a regular table saw insert to make one zero clearance.
more BOAT now!
Okay, I have to say this, and don’t let it go to your head... but this is possibly the best crosscut sled concept I’ve seen. I have a long and passionate love-hate relationship with my crosscut sleds. I’ve built and scrapped several of the things over the years, and with use have always found flaws that make me crazy. This sled addresses every issue I’ve had. And yes, JKM’s stop is amazing.
Liked the video.... although a full sheet of ply isn’t “stuff” laying around lol
I have a full sheet of ply laying around the shop. I always buy more material than I need when building stuff.
@@matteout_woodworking yes. exception to everything.
@@matteout_woodworking really? 3/4 Birch plywood? What did you have that left over from?
@@tedcox3586 I'm a professional woodworker. I will use it on something so buying two or three extra pieces when I build cabinets isn't a big deal for me. The thing is that the time I spend going back to the plywood store cost more than buying a few extra.
The same with lumber. I have like 2000 board feet of lumber in my shop minimum. Ranging from oak to pine. If I get commissioned to do a job I have the lumber to do it. It's seasoned in my shop and ready to start production.
Just purchased that Katz stop. Looks great !
Cool sled!! I would love to have all that "Crap" laying around. :-)
I know what I'll be making. Awesome addition to my tools. Thanks
I think I would have used 1/4 or 3/8 plywood on the bottom. The problem with using the 3/4 plywood, is you have reduced your depth of cutting ability. The front and rear faces would have held it straight and flat....as would have the thicker plywood added to the inside. That's my only constructive criticism to add.
Not to mention the 160# weight 😆
Great video. I’ll definitely keep this in mind for when I (eventually) get a table saw.
That's the weirdest boat I've ever seen.
Great, I have tried twice to make one. I think this time I'll try yours, thank you for the easy going instructions.
I may or may not have watched this video instead of writing my essay that's due tommorrow
You popped up on my suggested feeds after I've been watching WWMM and WWW for a while. Great Advice, Great Humour, Great Beard, Great Tunes. *subscribed*
That sled would take up half the depth of cut capacity on a 10" saw. Nice rig otherwise.
I was thinking the same thing. Love the design otherwise.
How do we fix that? I love the idea, but I need one a lot thinner. If you cut dados into the plywood for the T-track, then it will make the whole thing flimsy.
Maybe make one out of metal to keep it strong but thin?
Maybe add metal bracing to wood to strengthen it in places?
@@charlieodom9107 Ya, I noticed how thick it was too by the end. I think if you were to build it with ALL materials being half as thick... by the time everything was screwed and glued it would be plenty sturdy.
@@urwholefamilydied a 3/4" sled would give me 2.5" or so cut depth, which I believe is more than enough for my little saw.
I'm building a new tablesaw out of a cheap Ryobi plastic portable saw right now. The plastic one was too flimsy, but there was nothing wrong with the motor or mechanical bits. My top will be 3/4", with further stiffening under the area where T-Track will be placed.
I'm still working on mounting the motor to the front of the new cabinet, but I believe I'll have just over 3" of cut depth once finished.
maybe make the first layer out of 1/4" instead of 1/2" that would get you anothter 1/4" lol. or maybe the 2nd layer could be 3/8" then you got a total savings of 1/2"... that otta be enough thinness for anyone lol. jk :)
By far the coolest cross-cut sled I've seen yet. This is the one that I am going to build. Thanks for sharing. Great video.
For a really simply and completely precise way to check for square, I recommend the five-side-cut method. Take a board about 12" on each side. Cut an inch off one side. Put that side against the fence, repeat; repeat again, and repeat again, until all four sides have been cut. THEN slide the board over and make a 1" cut and check the width of the 1" board with calipers. To see it done, go to "5 Cuts to a "Perfect" Cross-cut Sled" at th-cam.com/video/UbG-n--LFgQ/w-d-xo.html.
For an even better and faster method I suggest using a dial indicator and an accurate 90 degree reference square, the longer the better.
Clamp the square to your fence, set up the dial indicator with a magmount base near the tip of your reference square such that the tip of the dial indicator rides on the edge of the square.
Zero the indicator to 0. Push the sled forward and backward. Once you have the fence showing very little deflection, you are golden. I shoot for 0-0.002 thou.
After that you can lock down your test cuts and use the 5 cut method, if you like.
Alternatively, you might try the Rob Cosman method of attaching the fence. He takes the base piece and cuts a rabbit along the edge where the fence goes. Then when he attaches the fence in the rabbit, it is already square. If it isn't, your saw or it's fence needs tuning up.
Dig this. I will build it the same. Thanks for not over-engineering it.
iMPRESSIVE EXCEPT IT WOULD TAKE 3 MEN AND A BOY TO LIFT THE DAMNED THING lol
And it's so thick you can only cut 3 sheets of paper on it.
BTW, I know that this video was on how to build a sled but I watched this after watching your cabinet build series and the video on going to a lumber center to select your wood rather than the big box store. Just in case your wondering.👍
80% of my time spent during projects is searching my garage
The fact you played LOTRs music on the flute. You are no.1 on youtube!
You can not do that Im here for the BOAT triggered
I'm so thankful I found this channel. It's a wonderful mix of comedy and information, and it always makes me smile.
I wanted to make a new sled when I started watching this vid.....for some reason I ended up watching lord of the rings...weird
One last addon you need. A piece of adhesive backed measuring tape, put on the top of your rear panel and zero'd using your stop. Youll just need to slide the stop to the measurement you want and lock it in place. Did that on my cross cut sled, adds so much usefulness.
Uh dont run the dado stack through the aluminum........ Im just sayin...
I was wondering about that myself?
Nice man. my next project well done love ya work.
Check out AVE. The hierarchy of materials. Carbide cuts ALL, except for the stuff that us normal people can't afford
Check for runout on the extruded aluminum with a dial indicator. You'd be amazed how off many of them are from one end to the other.
Sweet sled. Nice when the "crap" in your shop includes a $70 sheet of plywood. I should be so lucky. Now I know what to do with that left over T-track. Thanks man.
Just cut the aluminum on someone else’s saw
I built almost this exact cross-cut sled. Thanks for the idea of using the extruded aluminum. And ... it was as easy as you said to shim it. I got it to within 1/1000 inch to square! And, putting the t-track on the sled was also a piece of cake. You are a genius!.
I have been binge watching your videos for two days now. Very informative info plus you are hilarious. You look almost identical to a buddy of mine!!!
Great video thanks. The same rail and stop would work great on a drill press fence. I like the stops on my drill press to flip up out of the way so I can have several settings.
I love your videos. In this one I like that you used t track. You inspired me to add that to my cross cut sled. Thanks man!