Jason - you have one of the best channels on TH-cam. Every week I not only learn several new things, tips and techniques but also am entertained. Education with humor - the best. However, I have to say this week's video went even further. When your wife casually interrupted your filming and the resultant look on your face is priceless.... Very funny and, honestly, appropo for you. Keep'm coming.
As a CNC freak, using templates cut on the CNC with a real router can actually be faster than using a CNC to cut the entire piece. This is especially true when there are inner pockets involved, which take forever on the CNC. With a nice fat router base and a beefy bit, a plunge router will fly through those.
Often while cutting somthing out on the cnc I think to myself " I could have had this done by now if I used a template" yet still no templates have been made haha
Yep. Can confirm. I do my templates on the CNC for accuracy and then use a bandsaw and router to do the actually pieces. Comes out cleaner (don’t need to worry about tear out or blow out) and it’s quicker.
@@austinhall485 luckily with the CNC you could work on other parts of the project while the robot does its thing. That's what really makes the CNC faster, even though it may seem slower for the CNC to actually cut the piece.
@sparrowhawk009 yes and no. Not all projects allow you to just walk away without risk of somthing going wrong. Many times in the middle of a run I've lost suction on my material and comes loose, if I walked away and did somthing else it could have been very problematic. Usually when running 600ipm I'm not just walking away and hoping for the best lol
@@austinhall485 yes, you still need to keep an eye on it, but you can still work on another part of the project or clean up the shop a bit while the CNC is doing it's thing. You don't have to stare at it the entire time. Though I normally find those videos fascinating 😀
Jason!!! Jason!!! Jason!!! Great tutorial!!! It's so nice to have all that info in one place. And, your style of presentation provides plenty of memory anchors. Way to go!!! 👏👏👏
Bushing suck because of the sizing issue, but, you will never wear out your template. I use CA glue on the edges of MDF templates to harden them so the bearing doesn't slowly eat them.
I have always 'sized' the edges of MDF templates with 1# cut shellac. I use store bought, ready to use shellac and reduce it by 2/3 with denatured alcohol to achieve the 1# cut criteria. Two coats...one right after the other...quick scuff with some abrasive in the 220 grit range. I then rub that edge with a scant wipe of paste wax. I have templates well over twenty years old that have held up using this method. But...the most important thing is to protect that edge from wear, so whatever you are comfortable with is likely what is gonna work for you. If you put 100 woodchucks in a room, you are likely gonna find twenty or thirty ways to attack a problem...and they will all work! 😂
Nice, learned a new trick. I've used minwax wood hardener, because I do restoration work, so l always have it handy. I think I will also try Woodrows shellac trick. Thanks you guys and big thanks to Jason!
Just wanted to say a big thank you for explaining the whole bearing mounted orientation as well as the upcut/downcut/compression difference. This video finally made it make sense.
Man I wish I could post a pic here of the cabinet bases and built in shelves (backlit w/ WLED) I built using your videos. You help us normal DIY people build amazing things, please keep up the great work!!
Two simpler ways to perhaps think about preventing a climb cut: 1) remember to push against the direction of rotation of the router bit. 2) If you have your template to the right of the router bit (i.e. you are routing on the left side of your piece) you are routing on the wrong side. My 1 1/4 cents (due to inflation). Love your channel Jason.
Hi from an aging Kiwi, who has been a secondary workshop based, wood and metal teacher for around three decades. Who now, for a number of years, has had a really tough boss, who doesn't pay me. When I get time which is rarely. I repair and build acoustic musical instruments. . The world is constantly changing. I found this U tube, extremely valuable. I Learn'd heaps, thankyou so much.
Carpet tape: 'round heah, comes in "light", "medium", and "heavy". If you use "heavy" on wood, you're pulling splinters off the surface of your workpiece when you pull it off. If you can pull it off at all. "Light" works just fine, and you really only need tabs of it, not continuous lines.
Comprehensive and entertaining. I watch a ton of TH-cam and this may be the best, most concise and complete info on template routing and routing in general. We'll done Mr. Peech
Some really good advice, A few years ago, I was asked to build a social club bar for a local basketball team. The bar took up an area of approximately 6m x 2m with a sloped front that turned 90° . I designed it like an aeroplane wing, lots of ribs to form the shape, and then clad with laminated mdf followed by timber veneer . I made a pattern for the ribs out of 16mm mdf with an attached bracket to hold it in the vice, the hold down mechanism was an old fridge compressor used as a vacuum pump to a small hole in the centre of the pattern, a thin rubber seal was used around the edge of the pattern and one after another the blanks were seated and routed, the quickest pattern cutting ever.
MORE OF THIS PLEASE! I love my router, but I honestly am winging it when I use it, apart from working safe I really have little idea how to get the most out of my tool, this video was 100% useful to me. Thanks Jason!
I love watching you, Jason. I'm starting into my woodworking journey this year to honor my father. I love that I can watch you on TH-cam and The OldMakers Channel. When I head down south, I'd love to see your workshop. Keep them coming!
Probably the best router tutorial I've seen so far. Everything you said made perfect sense especially explaining the different bits and how they each work, great for a newby like myself. Keep up the awesome work and like everyone else on here l always look forward to when you post
Jason, the best explanation of use of templates on the router that I have seen. I now have the confidence to use straight bits in my router table on very small pieces end grain while feeding by hand! They call me twoey.Just kidding, much better understanding for me as a new woodworker to get these things accomplished. Going to start on a jewelry box for my wife the has rounded drawer fronts. Now I know how to do it. Thanks and please keep providing these videos.
Dude!!!… you are freakin hilarious!! You make these videos so entertaining the whole time you are educating the masses. I had a drafting teacher in high school that had a fantastic sense of humour that made learning so fun. You are the same.
I’ve been using different types of routers for many years, always nice to have a little refresher course to remind me of the things that I don’t do very often. Nicely done, sir.
@@toddsalmon6541 it was a table saw accident where I was uncomfortable and went to turn off the saw and a piece slid and by instinct I went to grab it and nicked the end of my fingers. I’ll still have full functionality but they will look a little weird 😊
Hi Jason, have enjoyed your channel for years now. That was a neat overview of template routing, but I beg to differ about end grain routing - well at least slightly: Depending on the shape of the pattern and what's actually necessary, sometimes I start on the end-grain and go back to do the long grain afterwards. This works especially well doing decorative mouldings (with a guide bearing). I often make hardwood mounting plates for things like water taps (known as "bib" taps here in the UK), and cabin hooks, and sometimes display plinths. These will often be a qudrant moulding with quirks though, so there will be some uncut material left to support the cutter. That way, any small tearout gets milled away on the long grain passes. But you're spot-on about not having blunt cutters for end grain! Also, you don't _have_ to do your cross-grain stuff with a template cutter - you used the mitre saw in the early part of the video, making your template, and that's by far a better approach if it's a simple squared-off profile . If it takes one quick extra step to get the corner crisp (router table then table saw or mitre saw), it's probably worth it.
You will be partially happy to hear we don’t call “water taps”, actually I’ve heard that or similar to name what we do call a “hose bib”. All that assume you are referring to the outside connection, if you were meaning interior then yes, we do commonly refer to them as water taps and the water we get out of them is called “tap water”
TIP: you can also take the file for the paper templates to an Office Max or other office supply store that does large size printing. They can print it to size on some nice paper that won’t tear easily. And they usually give it to you in a cardboard tube so you can store it neatly.
I've been doing template routing for years, and I still watched your very well done video all the way through. Excellent cautions about climb cuts (although there are times when you just need to do 'em), and about compression bits. Thanks!
Just take a contrasting sharpie and draw an arrow on your router table for feed direction on each side of the bit. Then you don't have to stop and think about it every time :) And if you built your router table you can put a clear coat of finish over the sharpie to protect it from wearing off.
Great video, I prefer the masking tape and super glue method over double stick tape only because in the UK our double stick isn't that good and the template can " giggle" a little as the tape is a bit spongey, I would recommend burnishing the masking tape down on both bits to get good adhesion. Also router speed and feed rate is important too 👍
Thank you so much for the deep dive into template routing. I always enjoy all the great information that is delivered with just the right amount of humor. Thank you!
Great video. When cutting the end grain with a straight cut bearing bit, I always go with the spin direction for about a half inch. Cuts down tear out tremendously.
Hey Jason it was great seeing your main squeeze as she ventured through the shop! We all have a “Project Manager” asking for all the “stuff” that “can you bouild me a …”. Great job on the template routing class
16:30 this actually is a very interesting bit. Not the router bit, the bit in the video, about upcuts and downcuts. And the bit about the special hugs leading to kids - very useful too, Jason!
It's worth pointing out that if you use mdf for your template, over time the bearing will dig into the side of the mdf template as its really soft, either use ply or you can spread glue round the outside edge of the mdf to make it a bit harder.
Most excellent video. I have been making sawdust for 35 years now and have never seen this much authentic information in so little time. I have been using carpet tape for over thirty years now, and doubt I'll ever even try the CA/blue tape trick. I trust carpet tape. Don't necessarily trust blue tape. I'm good with CA...just kinda sketchy with the adhesive power of a tape that is designed to be removed easily. A roll of carpet tape is a couple bucks more that blue tape, and I can spend a couple bucks more to save my digits.
Thank you, I bought a straight bit and I struggled following a template and I thought I was doing something wrong and I stopped. Seeing you struggle the same way makes it clear I just bought the wrong tool. I will try again with a compression bit.
This was a video I didn't know I needed until I watched it. As usual, very thorough and entertaining at the same time. Thanks for putting it out there for us!
Jason, Thank you! Very much appreciate the break down on routers. So much good info, I will no doubt be watching it multiple times in the next few months and maybe even years. I'm new to this sawdust making hobby (yep, retired old fart) and am simply fascinated by what can be done with this medium called wood.
If using a straight bit leave a little extra at the corners of the stock when cutting at the band saw. Router the end grain first, so the tear out happens on the excess waste. When you router the long grain the tear out will be trimmed off.
I just buy the 2" golf tape, and use a wheel marker to cut a few desired widths on the roll. Usually 1", 5/8", 3/8". It only lasts a few turns but you can just line it up in the groove and cut again.
Hi Jason! Big fan from Croatia here. I love your videos and I must admit that Ive learned a lot from you. I would like to ask of you one favor though. Could you be so kind and put on a screen metric units when you talk dimmensions. That would help a lot since I get lost in your quarter eights of an inch units. Thank you very much and keep on keeping on!
Jason, thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping keep us safer. I knew 90% of this, but a reminder is always helpful. Especially when it's so well presented and interesting. 👍
I too knew a lot of this material. One bit of suggestion for safety. The circular plate around the cutter is a "No finger zone". Keep the fingers outside that zone. Seems to work.
I totally agree about not using paddles. But I also suggest getting your palms down on the back edge of the piece if you can, it will help protect your fingers if it does kick.
As usual, I learned something appreciate it compression bit. It is making outdoor furniture with templates. I definitely needed that piece of knowledge. Thank you Bourbon Moth
The first templates I made, I just sent the SVG file to SendCutSend and had them cut it out on 1/4 MDF on their laser and send it to me for like $25. Not the cheapest option, but the results were great. Once I had a jigsaw and a nice belt sander, I was able to print out templates myself, rough cut with the jigsaw, and shape with the sander. It's a little more effort, but it's also a bit quicker and definitely cheaper!
Love your content...Using your direction for right hand rule with router facing downward for cutting....Simply use left hand with same concept for router table with upward facing bit location.
Two things about the straight knife bit. Just used one earlier today just to flush trim in a hand held router. It was a small amount so I used my little straight knife flush trim bit. I noticed it did this on the router table as well when you did the white oak. It kind of splinters the wood out. And on my piece… it splintered out and took a chunk out beyond the template. And that wasn’t on the end grain. It was the long grain. I was so mad. I never have that issue with compression bits. Also… that jerking that it did when you did the end grain. Just makes me cringe even just watching it. I hate it when it does that. It just scares the daylights out of me. After making some cheese and cracker trays and using a flush trim bit on the handle… I jumped online and ordered a compression bit. The thing is a beast!
Love your tip of the right thumb on the piece and the index points to the direction of using the hand held router. For the router table, rather than your mind trick, just use your left hand. Left thumb on the piece, and left index points to direction of cut.
Thank you for this video! I've been using routers and router tables for a while. But this is a great reference for new people. I'm planning on getting an employee soon and this will be a required watch for safety! And I have a coping sled, but never thought to use it instead of my screw clamps. Nice tip!
Great video Jason! You got the level spot on, not too dumbed down or too technical, so it's useful for beginners and more experienced wood workers. Thanks for sharing 🙂😎🥃
Thank you, Jason! My Dad turned me on to making templates so many years ago, and I end up using them for almost everything!! if anything, you should STRESS how important it is to have very smooth clean edges, since (as you mentioned) all imperfections will transfer to the target piece!! My biggest question is, since I'm NOT a professional woodworker, will it substantially up my game if i make the sound effects like you do? THANKS!!!
Do compression bits need to be sized for the thickness of the piece you are routing? For example it seems that a compression bit for cutting 3/4" material would be acting as only an up cut or down cut bit for 1/4" material, which could lead to tearout on either the top or bottom surface.
Yes. If you typically use 3/4" stock, you might buy a compression bit with a 1" cutting length. That bit can have the compression zone toward one end allowing you to also use that bit for 5/8,1/2, 3/8 material. The compression zone doesn't always have to be right in the middle of the bit. Check out the specs on bid from different brands to find the right one for your needs.
Thank you for this great video! Probably my favorite yet as far as helpful content. I find the doubter super intimidating and you addressed so many of my question about bits. So great. Keep them coming and thanks again for all the helpful content!
Hey mate, greetings from the UK. Love all your vids, but simply cut from left to right no matter which way your router is orientated and your going the right way 👍
Great stuff. This is the most comprehensive explanation of routering (is that even a word?) I have ever seen, thanks. The tips are really useful, but I have a tip for you, Jason . . . When Mrs Bouron Moth comes into the workshop, make sure she brings a sandwich - and a beer.
Great and informative video. One thing caught my eye about your comparison of the compression and straight knife bit. The straight knife bit has a way smaller diameter. May not be a big deal, but still a thing to consider.
I always remember which direction to go with the router by comparing it to driving. I'm an American who likes the freedom of driving his own car, and I drive on the right. The British like their buses, and drive on the left. When driving..er..using a hand-held router, drive it like an American car -- the bit and the workpiece pass each other on the right. When using a router table, drive it like a British bus -- the bit and workpiece pass each other on the left.
The "peg" as you mention is called a "starter pin". I can confirm it is MANDATORY when using a straight knife cutter bit. With this type of bit, you need to realize that the full length of the cutter comes in contact with the piece when engaged. It tries to bite very aggressively and try to pull the part or kick it out. It is very dangerous. I strongly encourage people using the compression or at least the spiral bit type. At all time, there is less cutter length inside the wood which provides a more constant pull torque on you. Thanks for the video, I am pretty sure this will save a few fingers.
I always seem to be fighting my router when it's in the table. The wood always seems to jump, kick back, or have lots of tear out/blowout. I always thought it was the direction of the wood grain or the speed that I run the router. I've only been using straight blade bits...time to upgrade I guess.
Great video. I’ve been doing a lot of template routing lately and I’ve watched lots of videos. This was great to have it all in one place. Still learned some things and reinforced some others. Great stuff. And… entertaining. LOL And… it’s a starting pin. LOL.
Thanks for running into this risky endgrain cut. By the way I've never had a chance to use compression bits but you convinced me to buy one pretty soon.
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Jason - you have one of the best channels on TH-cam. Every week I not only learn several new things, tips and techniques but also am entertained. Education with humor - the best. However, I have to say this week's video went even further. When your wife casually interrupted your filming and the resultant look on your face is priceless.... Very funny and, honestly, appropo for you. Keep'm coming.
Agreed
As a CNC freak, using templates cut on the CNC with a real router can actually be faster than using a CNC to cut the entire piece. This is especially true when there are inner pockets involved, which take forever on the CNC. With a nice fat router base and a beefy bit, a plunge router will fly through those.
Often while cutting somthing out on the cnc I think to myself " I could have had this done by now if I used a template" yet still no templates have been made haha
Yep. Can confirm. I do my templates on the CNC for accuracy and then use a bandsaw and router to do the actually pieces. Comes out cleaner (don’t need to worry about tear out or blow out) and it’s quicker.
@@austinhall485 luckily with the CNC you could work on other parts of the project while the robot does its thing. That's what really makes the CNC faster, even though it may seem slower for the CNC to actually cut the piece.
@sparrowhawk009 yes and no. Not all projects allow you to just walk away without risk of somthing going wrong. Many times in the middle of a run I've lost suction on my material and comes loose, if I walked away and did somthing else it could have been very problematic. Usually when running 600ipm I'm not just walking away and hoping for the best lol
@@austinhall485 yes, you still need to keep an eye on it, but you can still work on another part of the project or clean up the shop a bit while the CNC is doing it's thing. You don't have to stare at it the entire time. Though I normally find those videos fascinating 😀
Nothing like a little Bourbon with my morning coffee
As a beginner this is one of the easiest to follow vids on template routing. Thank you.
Ditto! The demonstrations set his videos apart from other TH-camrs.
Jason!!! Jason!!! Jason!!! Great tutorial!!! It's so nice to have all that info in one place. And, your style of presentation provides plenty of memory anchors. Way to go!!! 👏👏👏
Bushing suck because of the sizing issue, but, you will never wear out your template. I use CA glue on the edges of MDF templates to harden them so the bearing doesn't slowly eat them.
I have always 'sized' the edges of MDF templates with 1# cut shellac. I use store bought, ready to use shellac and reduce it by 2/3 with denatured alcohol to achieve the 1# cut criteria. Two coats...one right after the other...quick scuff with some abrasive in the 220 grit range. I then rub that edge with a scant wipe of paste wax. I have templates well over twenty years old that have held up using this method.
But...the most important thing is to protect that edge from wear, so whatever you are comfortable with is likely what is gonna work for you. If you put 100 woodchucks in a room, you are likely gonna find twenty or thirty ways to attack a problem...and they will all work! 😂
@@woodrowsmith3400 i have indeed used shellac too. The CA is harder, but I haven’t had issues with shellac either.
Nice, learned a new trick. I've used minwax wood hardener, because I do restoration work, so l always have it handy. I think I will also try Woodrows shellac trick. Thanks you guys and big thanks to Jason!
Just wanted to say a big thank you for explaining the whole bearing mounted orientation as well as the upcut/downcut/compression difference. This video finally made it make sense.
Man I wish I could post a pic here of the cabinet bases and built in shelves (backlit w/ WLED) I built using your videos. You help us normal DIY people build amazing things, please keep up the great work!!
I'm really interested in seeing your work!!!
Two simpler ways to perhaps think about preventing a climb cut: 1) remember to push against the direction of rotation of the router bit. 2) If you have your template to the right of the router bit (i.e. you are routing on the left side of your piece) you are routing on the wrong side. My 1 1/4 cents (due to inflation). Love your channel Jason.
Hi from an aging Kiwi, who has been a secondary workshop based, wood and metal teacher for around three decades. Who now, for a number of years, has had a really tough boss, who doesn't pay me. When I get time which is rarely. I repair and build acoustic musical instruments. . The world is constantly changing. I found this U tube, extremely valuable. I Learn'd heaps, thankyou so much.
Carpet tape: 'round heah, comes in "light", "medium", and "heavy". If you use "heavy" on wood, you're pulling splinters off the surface of your workpiece when you pull it off. If you can pull it off at all. "Light" works just fine, and you really only need tabs of it, not continuous lines.
Comprehensive and entertaining. I watch a ton of TH-cam and this may be the best, most concise and complete info on template routing and routing in general. We'll done Mr. Peech
Some really good advice, A few years ago, I was asked to build a social club bar for a local basketball team. The bar took up an area of approximately 6m x 2m with a sloped front that turned 90° . I designed it like an aeroplane wing, lots of ribs to form the shape, and then clad with laminated mdf followed by timber veneer . I made a pattern for the ribs out of 16mm mdf with an attached bracket to hold it in the vice, the hold down mechanism was an old fridge compressor used as a vacuum pump to a small hole in the centre of the pattern, a thin rubber seal was used around the edge of the pattern and one after another the blanks were seated and routed, the quickest pattern cutting ever.
MORE OF THIS PLEASE! I love my router, but I honestly am winging it when I use it, apart from working safe I really have little idea how to get the most out of my tool, this video was 100% useful to me. Thanks Jason!
I love watching you, Jason. I'm starting into my woodworking journey this year to honor my father. I love that I can watch you on TH-cam and The OldMakers Channel. When I head down south, I'd love to see your workshop. Keep them coming!
Probably the best router tutorial I've seen so far. Everything you said made perfect sense especially explaining the different bits and how they each work, great for a newby like myself. Keep up the awesome work and like everyone else on here l always look forward to when you post
Jason, the best explanation of use of templates on the router that I have seen. I now have the confidence to use straight bits in my router table on very small pieces end grain while feeding by hand! They call me twoey.Just kidding, much better understanding for me as a new woodworker to get these things accomplished. Going to start on a jewelry box for my wife the has rounded drawer fronts. Now I know how to do it. Thanks and please keep providing these videos.
2:36 the video literally jumped to an ad right after “the end” popped up almost like it really was the end of the video. It got me for a second.
That's the first time I've heard a really clear explanation of template router cutting. Thanks! I learned a lot!
Dude!!!… you are freakin hilarious!! You make these videos so entertaining the whole time you are educating the masses. I had a drafting teacher in high school that had a fantastic sense of humour that made learning so fun. You are the same.
I’ve been using different types of routers for many years, always nice to have a little refresher course to remind me of the things that I don’t do very often.
Nicely done, sir.
As someone who just had surgery due to a woodworking injury, I really appreciate the focus on safety! Thank you!
Can I ask what happened? I'm a firm believer in the power of learning from other's mistakes.
@@toddsalmon6541 it was a table saw accident where I was uncomfortable and went to turn off the saw and a piece slid and by instinct I went to grab it and nicked the end of my fingers. I’ll still have full functionality but they will look a little weird 😊
@@allycami ouch! That dang reflex to grab stuff that is falling. I'm glad it wasn't worse.
There was so much information in the video, I have watch it again!!
This might be the best , most informative channel on all of youtube, thank you!
Great router template video. Another method is using an L fence with table saw: zero tear out and quick. Am now a Patreon supporter!
Hi Jason, have enjoyed your channel for years now. That was a neat overview of template routing, but I beg to differ about end grain routing - well at least slightly:
Depending on the shape of the pattern and what's actually necessary, sometimes I start on the end-grain and go back to do the long grain afterwards. This works especially well doing decorative mouldings (with a guide bearing).
I often make hardwood mounting plates for things like water taps (known as "bib" taps here in the UK), and cabin hooks, and sometimes display plinths. These will often be a qudrant moulding with quirks though, so there will be some uncut material left to support the cutter.
That way, any small tearout gets milled away on the long grain passes. But you're spot-on about not having blunt cutters for end grain!
Also, you don't _have_ to do your cross-grain stuff with a template cutter - you used the mitre saw in the early part of the video, making your template, and that's by far a better approach if it's a simple squared-off profile .
If it takes one quick extra step to get the corner crisp (router table then table saw or mitre saw), it's probably worth it.
You will be partially happy to hear we don’t call “water taps”, actually I’ve heard that or similar to name what we do call a “hose bib”. All that assume you are referring to the outside connection, if you were meaning interior then yes, we do commonly refer to them as water taps and the water we get out of them is called “tap water”
TIP: you can also take the file for the paper templates to an Office Max or other office supply store that does large size printing. They can print it to size on some nice paper that won’t tear easily. And they usually give it to you in a cardboard tube so you can store it neatly.
I've been doing template routing for years, and I still watched your very well done video all the way through. Excellent cautions about climb cuts (although there are times when you just need to do 'em), and about compression bits. Thanks!
You, my friend, are so entertaining. It's easy to listen to you explaining things, I love it. 😂😎😎
Engagement! Love your videos, especially the longer format ones
Just take a contrasting sharpie and draw an arrow on your router table for feed direction on each side of the bit. Then you don't have to stop and think about it every time :) And if you built your router table you can put a clear coat of finish over the sharpie to protect it from wearing off.
Great video, I prefer the masking tape and super glue method over double stick tape only because in the UK our double stick isn't that good and the template can " giggle" a little as the tape is a bit spongey, I would recommend burnishing the masking tape down on both bits to get good adhesion.
Also router speed and feed rate is important too 👍
Thumbs up for the sound effects at 32:00! Seriously, great tips. I recently purchased a router table and you've given me some great ideas.
Thank you so much for the deep dive into template routing. I always enjoy all the great information that is delivered with just the right amount of humor. Thank you!
For the direction, I just marked an arrow with sharpie on my table to show the rotation and the direction in which to feed material.
Great video. When cutting the end grain with a straight cut bearing bit, I always go with the spin direction for about a half inch. Cuts down tear out tremendously.
Hey Jason it was great seeing your main squeeze as she ventured through the shop! We all have a “Project Manager” asking for all the “stuff” that “can you bouild me a …”. Great job on the template routing class
16:30 this actually is a very interesting bit. Not the router bit, the bit in the video, about upcuts and downcuts. And the bit about the special hugs leading to kids - very useful too, Jason!
It's worth pointing out that if you use mdf for your template, over time the bearing will dig into the side of the mdf template as its really soft, either use ply or you can spread glue round the outside edge of the mdf to make it a bit harder.
Excellent teaching I made all those mistakes and will be saving this to review again!
Most excellent video. I have been making sawdust for 35 years now and have never seen this much authentic information in so little time.
I have been using carpet tape for over thirty years now, and doubt I'll ever even try the CA/blue tape trick. I trust carpet tape. Don't necessarily trust blue tape. I'm good with CA...just kinda sketchy with the adhesive power of a tape that is designed to be removed easily. A roll of carpet tape is a couple bucks more that blue tape, and I can spend a couple bucks more to save my digits.
24:10 I just use a shop sharpie to mark on the plates which way the bit is spinning. Lots of great info in this video!
Thank you, I bought a straight bit and I struggled following a template and I thought I was doing something wrong and I stopped. Seeing you struggle the same way makes it clear I just bought the wrong tool. I will try again with a compression bit.
This is by far my favorite "Tips and Tricks" video! Great job guys!
This was a video I didn't know I needed until I watched it. As usual, very thorough and entertaining at the same time. Thanks for putting it out there for us!
Loved this video. You’re a really great teacher. Please make more instructional videos. They’ve helped me a lot
This might be my favorite video you’ve made… thanks for posting great info for us novices.
The sound effects are absolutely epic
Excited to hear where this journey takes you!
Jason, Thank you! Very much appreciate the break down on routers. So much good info, I will no doubt be watching it multiple times in the next few months and maybe even years. I'm new to this sawdust making hobby (yep, retired old fart) and am simply fascinated by what can be done with this medium called wood.
Thank you. I now thoroughly understand how a compression bit works, and the reason to use one.
One of the most informative, clearly explained pieces on routers! Thank you!
If using a straight bit leave a little extra at the corners of the stock when cutting at the band saw. Router the end grain first, so the tear out happens on the excess waste. When you router the long grain the tear out will be trimmed off.
I just buy the 2" golf tape, and use a wheel marker to cut a few desired widths on the roll. Usually 1", 5/8", 3/8". It only lasts a few turns but you can just line it up in the groove and cut again.
Hi Jason!
Big fan from Croatia here. I love your videos and I must admit that Ive learned a lot from you. I would like to ask of you one favor though. Could you be so kind and put on a screen metric units when you talk dimmensions. That would help a lot since I get lost in your quarter eights of an inch units. Thank you very much and keep on keeping on!
Jason, thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping keep us safer. I knew 90% of this, but a reminder is always helpful. Especially when it's so well presented and interesting. 👍
I too knew a lot of this material. One bit of suggestion for safety. The circular plate around the cutter is a "No finger zone". Keep the fingers outside that zone. Seems to work.
I totally agree about not using paddles. But I also suggest getting your palms down on the back edge of the piece if you can, it will help protect your fingers if it does kick.
As usual, I learned something appreciate it compression bit. It is making outdoor furniture with templates. I definitely needed that piece of knowledge. Thank you Bourbon Moth
The first templates I made, I just sent the SVG file to SendCutSend and had them cut it out on 1/4 MDF on their laser and send it to me for like $25. Not the cheapest option, but the results were great. Once I had a jigsaw and a nice belt sander, I was able to print out templates myself, rough cut with the jigsaw, and shape with the sander. It's a little more effort, but it's also a bit quicker and definitely cheaper!
Your best video for ages ... thanks Jason.
The best explanation of how to safely do routing!
Masterclass. This is gold. Thank you.
Love your content...Using your direction for right hand rule with router facing downward for cutting....Simply use left hand with same concept for router table with upward facing bit location.
Starting my Saturday with a little Bourbon…? Ok!
Two things about the straight knife bit. Just used one earlier today just to flush trim in a hand held router. It was a small amount so I used my little straight knife flush trim bit. I noticed it did this on the router table as well when you did the white oak. It kind of splinters the wood out. And on my piece… it splintered out and took a chunk out beyond the template. And that wasn’t on the end grain. It was the long grain. I was so mad. I never have that issue with compression bits.
Also… that jerking that it did when you did the end grain. Just makes me cringe even just watching it. I hate it when it does that. It just scares the daylights out of me. After making some cheese and cracker trays and using a flush trim bit on the handle… I jumped online and ordered a compression bit. The thing is a beast!
Love your tip of the right thumb on the piece and the index points to the direction of using the hand held router.
For the router table, rather than your mind trick, just use your left hand. Left thumb on the piece, and left index points to direction of cut.
I was looking through the comments for this exact question. Wouldn't the left hand work on the table?
Yes it would.
24:04
Thank you for sharing these tips on router templating. Also it's cool seeing your wife in more of your videos.
Thank you for this video! I've been using routers and router tables for a while. But this is a great reference for new people. I'm planning on getting an employee soon and this will be a required watch for safety! And I have a coping sled, but never thought to use it instead of my screw clamps. Nice tip!
Jason, very nicely done. This explains why I had the problems I had even though I use a router table. Thanks.
Great video Jason! You got the level spot on, not too dumbed down or too technical, so it's useful for beginners and more experienced wood workers. Thanks for sharing 🙂😎🥃
Thank you, Jason! My Dad turned me on to making templates so many years ago, and I end up using them for almost everything!! if anything, you should STRESS how important it is to have very smooth clean edges, since (as you mentioned) all imperfections will transfer to the target piece!! My biggest question is, since I'm NOT a professional woodworker, will it substantially up my game if i make the sound effects like you do? THANKS!!!
Just got my router and table today! Let’s Go!
What an enormously helpful video. Especially the trick to be sure of the direction to use the router. Thank you
Do compression bits need to be sized for the thickness of the piece you are routing? For example it seems that a compression bit for cutting 3/4" material would be acting as only an up cut or down cut bit for 1/4" material, which could lead to tearout on either the top or bottom surface.
Yes. If you typically use 3/4" stock, you might buy a compression bit with a 1" cutting length. That bit can have the compression zone toward one end allowing you to also use that bit for 5/8,1/2, 3/8 material. The compression zone doesn't always have to be right in the middle of the bit. Check out the specs on bid from different brands to find the right one for your needs.
Love to see you so excited! I am working towards the same dream. Good luck! Go for it!
Thank you for this great video! Probably my favorite yet as far as helpful content. I find the doubter super intimidating and you addressed so many of my question about bits. So great. Keep them coming and thanks again for all the helpful content!
Hey mate, greetings from the UK. Love all your vids, but simply cut from left to right no matter which way your router is orientated and your going the right way 👍
Stunning sounds effects !
Great stuff. This is the most comprehensive explanation of routering (is that even a word?) I have ever seen, thanks.
The tips are really useful, but I have a tip for you, Jason . . .
When Mrs Bouron Moth comes into the workshop, make sure she brings a sandwich - and a beer.
Wow! Nothing left you didn't mention 👏👏👏 thanks
I think this is your best "how to" video yet.
Well done, great reminders, especially the climb cut. It is fun but very dangerous if done wrong.
Thanks. That is one of the best instructional videos on using the router!
Love all your videos and the knowledge that you put out and your quarky dad jokes
Great and informative video. One thing caught my eye about your comparison of the compression and straight knife bit. The straight knife bit has a way smaller diameter. May not be a big deal, but still a thing to consider.
I always remember which direction to go with the router by comparing it to driving. I'm an American who likes the freedom of driving his own car, and I drive on the right. The British like their buses, and drive on the left. When driving..er..using a hand-held router, drive it like an American car -- the bit and the workpiece pass each other on the right. When using a router table, drive it like a British bus -- the bit and workpiece pass each other on the left.
Excellent. Thank you. One video I would like to see is on using an electric plane for fine woodworking or, at least, for more than rough carpentry.
Thank you for this guide, now I need to save up and buy new router bits to replace all the cheap strait cuts that keep causing tear out and kick back.
My bit from bits n bits arrives today. This video got me rather excited for it to arrive.
This was really helpful, thanks!
The "peg" as you mention is called a "starter pin". I can confirm it is MANDATORY when using a straight knife cutter bit. With this type of bit, you need to realize that the full length of the cutter comes in contact with the piece when engaged. It tries to bite very aggressively and try to pull the part or kick it out. It is very dangerous. I strongly encourage people using the compression or at least the spiral bit type. At all time, there is less cutter length inside the wood which provides a more constant pull torque on you. Thanks for the video, I am pretty sure this will save a few fingers.
I always seem to be fighting my router when it's in the table. The wood always seems to jump, kick back, or have lots of tear out/blowout. I always thought it was the direction of the wood grain or the speed that I run the router. I've only been using straight blade bits...time to upgrade I guess.
Thanks Mr. Moth. You covered sooo much in that 👍🏼
Great video. I’ve been doing a lot of template routing lately and I’ve watched lots of videos. This was great to have it all in one place. Still learned some things and reinforced some others. Great stuff. And… entertaining. LOL
And… it’s a starting pin. LOL.
The sound effect guy is very talented!
Great lesson! Glad to know what that thing-a-bob is for!
Thank you so much for the best video I have ever seen on routers. Really informative and fun. Love watching thanks Michael in the uk. 🇬🇧😊
This was quite helpful....yah. Compression bits are the way to go. You are funny!
Thanks for running into this risky endgrain cut. By the way I've never had a chance to use compression bits but you convinced me to buy one pretty soon.
Nice job...clearly explained the issues and techniques.
Jason, great educational video. Thanks for putting this out for us guys that are still learning this stuff. lol
Great video Jason! Thanks.