Hello! Thanks for the questions! I would estimate the HP at the flywheel, using the older "net" way of measuring HP, at right around 350 and the torque at over 500 lb ft. Those are conservative estimates. The compression ratio is higher than a standard 1973 455, probably closer to a 1970 number and the camshaft is much better so it's probably more. I built the run stand myself.
Good evening, I hope this message gets to you or someone who has the time and patience to help me out. I just recently inherited my aunts 76 Riviera, all original 455. She sat for 20 years and I really want to get her back to killing the road. Ive had something’s done all ready just to get the engine started and to if its a good engine, and she is. Im asking for some advice. Im not trying to race, but I do want her to be able to get up and go if I just want to mash the pedal. I have started researching and I understand that this gen is considered to be the “NEUTERED” version of the 455. As I stated, its all original so transmission, rear end, and engine advice is all welcomed. Im not a car guy so please try and simplify it if possible. Thanks in advance. God speed, peace and blessings.
Hello! That's a great story and it's really nice that you want to get it back on the road! 1976 was the last year for the Buick 455. By that time it turned into a shadow of what it once was. When it was first developed in 1970 it had over 10:1 compression ratio and had a very conservative rating of 350 Horsepower and a whopping 510 pound feet of torque. Due to changing times the compression ratio was lowered all the way to 7.9:1 in 1976. Correspondingly, the horsepower and torque went way down as well, but not as much as people think. The way it was measured changed. The 1976 455 had 230 horsepower and much less torque. Anyway, the 1976 engine engine blocks are the best starting point for making power. That said, it appears that you really just want to increase the power and maintain reliability. The "typical" bolt on stuff will help it. Edelbrock makes a couple of aluminum intake manifolds for it. One is part number 2146 I believe and the other is a "B4B". Either will help it but I always use the 2146. Another thing that will help is a "free flowing" dual exhaust. Tubular "headers" or exhaust manifolds as well but I am uncertain if any are available for your car. Think of your engine as a big air pump (that all any engine is). So anything you can do to get more air in (along with fuel) and then get it out (through the exhaust) is always a good thing. An engine needs 3 things, spark, compression and fuel to run. Anything you can do to improve those things will make it have more power and run better. Unless you take the engine out and rebuild it the compression is set (at 7.9:1)
Sorry, I fat fingered the response and hit send. Anyway, you can definitely help the other two, spark and fuel. Spark is just that. Make sure that it has a good tune up including all new components. The fuel is what I was mentioning earlier. Moving air in and out of the engine in the best way possible. The fuel comes in from the carburetor. That too can be a big bolt on improvement and can reap big benefits. All that done, the current transmission and rearend should hold up just fine as long as they get serviced and inspected. If you decide to do internal engine work to make even more power then those will need improvements as well.
Hello, I have a question about this engine. I had my engine completely overhauled. When putting this motor together, I also used the best gaskets from TA Performence. I've been busy putting the engine together for a long time. The problem I have is that I can't get this engine sealed. After putting it together, I checked the pressure with air. I then checked the seals with a leak detection spray. I noticed that there were small bubbles on the intake gasket and on the head gaskets. I've taken it apart and put it back together several times. I used new gaskets every time. But it won't close. I've asked a lot of people around me and they don't know what to do either. One said it was normal at first. He says that the engine has to be warmed up before it seals. Another says something else. Can you help me?
I don't know what you currently have for intake manifold but you said you used TA head gaskets? My experience with the 455 is when using the TA performance "Orange Crush" ultraseal head gaskets pn# TA 1723C, which is approx .038" thick, with ARP head bolts, properly torqued/lubed,, I've never had a problem. As far as the intake leak, was the block decked? If you're using the stock valley pan they do work, but I always modify the valley tray TA pn# 1738-455 and then use the thicker Fel-Pro intake gasket set pn#375-1357. It's approx .060" thick which usually works well with stock or aluminum intakes. I don't build as many engines as Buick Pro a year but I have been working on older Buick 430-455 & 350 engines since 1985. I currently still own a 1970 GS-455 and a 1973 Riviera stage 1. I have sold a GS-350, 1968 Riv, and another 73' Riv. It's getting expensive to build them now. Good luck 👍
DP Simpsonlll gave great advise! I can add very little. That said, if the block and heads were decked then they should be flat and have a good surface for the gaskets. If they haven't been decked then that could be a source of the head gasket issue. The orange crush head gasket is the best. Also, the engine should seal at start up and stay sealed. It's not normal for it to have any leaks. As fat as the intake goes, the mating surface also need to be flat and straight. The advise given was spot on as far as gaskets are concerned. I assume that you are using the stock intake that is the correct one for the year of the heads. Not all 455 intakes will work with every year of heads. 1972 and up heads have much different and additional ports on them for EGR stuff and a stock 71 and down intake won't work. It won't seal those ports up. As a result, the stock bathtub intake gaskets are different for 72 and up i than the 71 and down. If the year of the heads match the intake then the correct gasket is essential. Finally if you use the bathtub gasket make sure you follow the instructions and add the correct amount of silicon sealant in the correct locations. Hope all this helps! Good luck!!!
If the stamp is on the heads then they're definitely 1973 heads. The block serial number is stamped at the back top of the block. 1973 and 1974 blocks are #1241735.
i could listen to that run all day thanks for the video
Thanks!
started immediately 👌🏾
Yep! Thanks!
Hello, how many horses is it making? Where did you purchase your test stand? Thank you.
Hello! Thanks for the questions! I would estimate the HP at the flywheel, using the older "net" way of measuring HP, at right around 350 and the torque at over 500 lb ft. Those are conservative estimates. The compression ratio is higher than a standard 1973 455, probably closer to a 1970 number and the camshaft is much better so it's probably more. I built the run stand myself.
Good evening, I hope this message gets to you or someone who has the time and patience to help me out. I just recently inherited my aunts 76 Riviera, all original 455. She sat for 20 years and I really want to get her back to killing the road. Ive had something’s done all ready just to get the engine started and to if its a good engine, and she is. Im asking for some advice. Im not trying to race, but I do want her to be able to get up and go if I just want to mash the pedal. I have started researching and I understand that this gen is considered to be the “NEUTERED” version of the 455. As I stated, its all original so transmission, rear end, and engine advice is all welcomed. Im not a car guy so please try and simplify it if possible. Thanks in advance. God speed, peace and blessings.
Hello! That's a great story and it's really nice that you want to get it back on the road! 1976 was the last year for the Buick 455. By that time it turned into a shadow of what it once was. When it was first developed in 1970 it had over 10:1 compression ratio and had a very conservative rating of 350 Horsepower and a whopping 510 pound feet of torque. Due to changing times the compression ratio was lowered all the way to 7.9:1 in 1976. Correspondingly, the horsepower and torque went way down as well, but not as much as people think. The way it was measured changed. The 1976 455 had 230 horsepower and much less torque. Anyway, the 1976 engine engine blocks are the best starting point for making power. That said, it appears that you really just want to increase the power and maintain reliability. The "typical" bolt on stuff will help it. Edelbrock makes a couple of aluminum intake manifolds for it. One is part number 2146 I believe and the other is a "B4B". Either will help it but I always use the 2146. Another thing that will help is a "free flowing" dual exhaust. Tubular "headers" or exhaust manifolds as well but I am uncertain if any are available for your car. Think of your engine as a big air pump (that all any engine is). So anything you can do to get more air in (along with fuel) and then get it out (through the exhaust) is always a good thing. An engine needs 3 things, spark, compression and fuel to run. Anything you can do to improve those things will make it have more power and run better. Unless you take the engine out and rebuild it the compression is set (at 7.9:1)
Sorry, I fat fingered the response and hit send. Anyway, you can definitely help the other two, spark and fuel. Spark is just that. Make sure that it has a good tune up including all new components. The fuel is what I was mentioning earlier. Moving air in and out of the engine in the best way possible. The fuel comes in from the carburetor. That too can be a big bolt on improvement and can reap big benefits. All that done, the current transmission and rearend should hold up just fine as long as they get serviced and inspected. If you decide to do internal engine work to make even more power then those will need improvements as well.
www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2146
www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2515
I can't find headers for it. I will keep looking. That said, a good free flowing dual exhaust will help a lot.
Hello, I have a question about this engine. I had my engine completely overhauled. When putting this motor together, I also used the best gaskets from TA Performence. I've been busy putting the engine together for a long time. The problem I have is that I can't get this engine sealed. After putting it together, I checked the pressure with air. I then checked the seals with a leak detection spray. I noticed that there were small bubbles on the intake gasket and on the head gaskets. I've taken it apart and put it back together several times. I used new gaskets every time. But it won't close. I've asked a lot of people around me and they don't know what to do either. One said it was normal at first. He says that the engine has to be warmed up before it seals. Another says something else. Can you help me?
I don't know what you currently have for intake manifold but you said you used TA head gaskets? My experience with the 455 is when using the TA performance "Orange Crush" ultraseal head gaskets pn# TA 1723C, which is approx .038" thick, with ARP head bolts, properly torqued/lubed,, I've never had a problem. As far as the intake leak, was the block decked? If you're using the stock valley pan they do work, but I always modify the valley tray TA pn# 1738-455 and then use the thicker Fel-Pro intake gasket set pn#375-1357. It's approx .060" thick which usually works well with stock or aluminum intakes. I don't build as many engines as Buick Pro a year but I have been working on older Buick 430-455 & 350 engines since 1985. I currently still own a 1970 GS-455 and a 1973 Riviera stage 1. I have sold a GS-350, 1968 Riv, and another 73' Riv. It's getting expensive to build them now. Good luck 👍
DP Simpsonlll gave great advise! I can add very little. That said, if the block and heads were decked then they should be flat and have a good surface for the gaskets. If they haven't been decked then that could be a source of the head gasket issue. The orange crush head gasket is the best. Also, the engine should seal at start up and stay sealed. It's not normal for it to have any leaks. As fat as the intake goes, the mating surface also need to be flat and straight. The advise given was spot on as far as gaskets are concerned. I assume that you are using the stock intake that is the correct one for the year of the heads. Not all 455 intakes will work with every year of heads. 1972 and up heads have much different and additional ports on them for EGR stuff and a stock 71 and down intake won't work. It won't seal those ports up. As a result, the stock bathtub intake gaskets are different for 72 and up i than the 71 and down. If the year of the heads match the intake then the correct gasket is essential. Finally if you use the bathtub gasket make sure you follow the instructions and add the correct amount of silicon sealant in the correct locations. Hope all this helps! Good luck!!!
I have a 455 stamped A73 does it mean it was a jan 73 engine?
Where is the stamp?
If the stamp is on the heads then they're definitely 1973 heads. The block serial number is stamped at the back top of the block. 1973 and 1974 blocks are #1241735.