For anyone doing this please read. I did this to a cylinder head and it worked beautifully but you will gave to replace the valve seals because they are rubber and they will turn to pieces. So after the whole cleaning process is said and done get your self some new valve seals and some tools to do the vve seal job and there you go your all said and done
What's funny in the day I had to go to three different machine shops one for brake drums and flywheels because they were fast, the other for my cast iron engine work like heads and blocks; but the best part this elderly guy did aluminum head work with carburetor cleaner to clean it the heads were absolutely done perfect.
I’ve done this at home. I have a small electric pressure washer (1600 psi) that I attach to the water heater drain. Wash it with hot water right after tanking it and it looks brand new!
I use a 44 gallon drum, aircompressor and hose to bubble/agite the water whilst boiling for 3 hrs i found this to be the best ive been using this method for more than 20yrs
@P. Martinez 80% of the time I've used a mix of laundry detergent and dish washing liquid 30-70 mix the rest I've used a degreaser concentrate which worked OK, both cast iron blocks, alloy & cast iron heads I found the dish washing liquid and laundry detergent the best make sure you put a grate on bricks at bottom or drum than parts on top
@alexkinnane5831 no as motors get hotter than boiling water when running just make sure engine or heads are not sitting on bottom of barrel (house bricks work well ).
Yeah but then you'd quickly develope pin holes in the joints, welds, and where parts rest on the bottom. High frequency agitators are pretty harsh on cheap metals. Even high end ultra sonic cleaners have an expected life span on their seamless containers.
I saw this and thought “how to clean an engine, dump in trash, got it”... 👌🏻 Uh, just a thought here, heating up metal expands it, so leaving it in the solution until it’s cool and then hosing it off after it’s been sitting for a while will avoid any sudden temperature shifts thusly avoiding warping.
@@Nandranie-bu3pg Another dope identified. Aluminum heads can warp at 245'f according to some manf's, although 260-280 is more common. Stick to armchair quarterbacking.
Hey take a few orbital sanding pads and glue them to the can. Slap an orbital sander on it and turn it on. No joke, it's a ghetto ultrasonic cleaner. I bet it will work even better with this settup. I've gotten carbs super clean this way in a bucket.
Caution: Heated galvanized metal emits phosgene, a highly toxic colorless gas that can be lethal in concentrations as low as 2 ppm. It is crucial to opt for an alternative material for containing items like a steel drum.
There are 1500-watt electric immersion-type heaters that could be used for this as well. Might not get as hot as the propane but still enough heat to do some work. I used one in a HD tote with vinegar for derusting parts. The heater changed from a 2-week soaking down to 1-2 days.
Just pressure wash at your local car wash for less then 4 dollars. Spray it with degreaser then pressure rise with soap water to keep metal from rusting. You are done in 8 minutes
you wanna pressure wash with warm/hot water, cold water on hot might crack something, also next time add a bottle of coolant as well, helps prevent the flash rust you are seeing
I build many engines at my home shop, I did 55 gallon drum with insulation and lid plate on bottom, have electric band around and burner under works great have drain in bottom use Cascade dish washer soap pressure washer after long soak .
Thats come up beautiful. You could send that over to the aqua blasters without upsetting them( I've found they're normally preciuose little princess's who don't like oil and greese) well impressed with your work lads👍🏻👍👍👍👍👍
Def want to ensure the dip you use is aluminum safe. Shocking those boiling hot parts with cold water might not cause any problems. But if it does, it'll be a throw-them-away kind of problem
REAL COOL idea I wonder if an air hose with a steel tube attached and placed in the water to the bottom with just enough pressure to make bubbles to rise up and help agitate the water would help any?
Use an air wand with a long piece of brake / fuel line with a 90 degree bend at the end and just go blow air on your parts intermittently. Works like a charm. I use the bright yellow degresser from HF
Try higher heat less water and steaming the block with some gas or meth it will take off all the grime also crc's top engine cleaner for valves is really good literally soakes for ten minutes and clean
Can you guys give me any advice on where I can responsibly dump the used solution? I 'm inclined to dump it near your houses, but I don't know where you live.
I used this technique 15th years ago..but only used soap n water..put the engine one night in soap water..after that cleaned up by water..and u will see like a new engine
Seems to work good. Needs an agitator or something to work the grime off. I worked at a machine shop with a large hot tank and the basket would move back and forth while heating it. Very caustic on the lines of what you're using but more concentrate. Purple power works great but not aluminum friendly. Dont get it on your skin. It de fats or drys out your skin bad. in days skin peels of a lot! Did you try a cast iron head or block yet?
I used to use a plastic garbage can with a can of red devil lye and two cups of Tide . no rubbing no scrubbing! Just had to wear rubber gloves and eye protection
I could imagine the fumes from the galvanized trash can can't be good. Any time you burn galvanized the steal Will rust just the same if you scratch it.
This is hilarious. I was thinking about a steel can and looked up hot cleaning parts ideas, and your video popped up..😂 I'm glad I wasn't the first nut to do it, lol.
If you're going through the trouble to tear it down that far, you should be replacing any of the rubber parts anyway since they are probably hard and brittle.
Agree, if you're even near this stripped down anyone with an ounce of common sense already knows they're going to replace all seals, probably water pump, thermo, seats, etc. Remove 'em and toss them and have a solid rebuild.
I didn’t look at all the comments but if you had an aerator in there, if you got shop air would do wonders also. That gives some kind of movement in there. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
If they put some copper tube with small holes in it then connected it to an air line the agitation would remove the dirt way quicker. Moving agitated water is very aggressive, just look at the grand canyon to see how aggressive it can be.
I sprayed wd40 all over the cylinders, and areas I didn't want to rust when I cleaned my parts. Maybe overkill but didn't want to risk any rust. Small parts I put in zip locks with a paper towel as well.
Make sure to check the middle with a meat thermometer to see when it’s done. 😂 Nice work guys. Now I know what to use one of my extra 55 gallon barrels for.
looks great, my questions: What detergent did you use? What time did it take totally? Is this detergent also for use on an alloy head? Is this detergent also for decoking? thanks alot and greetings from Europe
Use simple green or a degreaser, CLR or vinegar will work also, make sure when you remove to spray down the parts through every nook and cranny with wd-40 to prevent flash rusting
@@samwhite1345 i have an aircooled enfield cylinder, the oil and gasket could get removed by plastic beading, but the paint seems to be something like powder coated. Do you think, it csn be removed with this methode?
Hi Mike if you want to make that clean a lot better you need something to agitate it. Therefore if your garbage can is galvanized steel you can buy an electric magnetic vibrator. That would work awesome
Good idea but looks like an F-ton of work. I just use a paintbrush and gas to loosen the crud, then spray it with Gunk engine degreaser, purple power, Dawn dishwashing liquid anything like that and pressure wash it. Same results. A real hot tank uses caustic chemicals to clean inside the coolant and oil passages, this method is just the cosmetics.
Nice soup. ;) I was thinking about ultra-sonic and stuff until I saw the result of this video. Think I'm gonna stick with the soup tank. Thanks for sharing.
I have an 1989 Ford F-350 with a 7.3 IDI diesel. Will this work also whenever I get to the chance to rebuild my engine might be a stupid question but just asking anyways 👍.
Yeah, everyone did that in 2-3rd grade Science.... You basically made a salt solution, and all the foaming is just the acid/base reacting with each other, not the dirt and grime, etc.
NOT. Burning the galvanized coating off that sheet metal is a great way to get zinc nerve poisoning. When did so many, many people seem to get so dumb the past decade or so?
I am lucky that my local shops will do the cleaning for less than what you spent doing it yourself, nothing wrong with handling things yourself but sometimes it is just as cheap to have someone else do it.
But his setup can then do many cleans for many years for only degreaser + gas costs. Cheaper, faster, probably easier to DIY at home vs packing and travelling to the shop & pickup and return plus waiting for them to complete it. This method is a winner imho!
@@Tiger77753 i know a couple shops locally that have done it for me for less than $50. I know everyone has different experiences/connections but at least i didnt have all that stuff to dispose of afterwards
Check our website for the lowest prices on Wiseco , AEM, Skunk2, Toyo Tires. Www.battlebornspeedshop.com
after hot tank, put head in garbage bag abd dump in gallon or two cider vinegar....then push air out of bag abd seal for a few day...RUST GONE
@@Bozemanjustin I use cleaning vinegar it is more acidic...
There is nothing for sale...
For anyone doing this please read. I did this to a cylinder head and it worked beautifully but you will gave to replace the valve seals because they are rubber and they will turn to pieces. So after the whole cleaning process is said and done get your self some new valve seals and some tools to do the vve seal job and there you go your all said and done
kinda goes without saying if you are taking apart a cylinder head might aswell replace valve seals. they arent expensive
@@jyu0715 I was about to say the same thing before i read ur comment
Indeed, I would have removed the valves before the hot tanking
You would probably want to remove any seals first, that's just common sense!!!
remove the valves and springs first but i would label them for each port
What's funny in the day I had to go to three different machine shops one for brake drums and flywheels because they were fast, the other for my cast iron engine work like heads and blocks; but the best part this elderly guy did aluminum head work with carburetor cleaner to clean it the heads were absolutely done perfect.
I’ve done this at home. I have a small electric pressure washer (1600 psi) that I attach to the water heater drain. Wash it with hot water right after tanking it and it looks brand new!
Good idea. Better use some filtration in line.
I use a 44 gallon drum, aircompressor and hose to bubble/agite the water whilst boiling for 3 hrs i found this to be the best ive been using this method for more than 20yrs
What cleaner/degreaser are you using? Are you cleaning aluminum parts?
@P. Martinez 80% of the time I've used a mix of laundry detergent and dish washing liquid 30-70 mix the rest I've used a degreaser concentrate which worked OK, both cast iron blocks, alloy & cast iron heads I found the dish washing liquid and laundry detergent the best make sure you put a grate on bricks at bottom or drum than parts on top
@@craigfiles7067do you find the temperature distort the block or cylinder head?
@alexkinnane5831 no as motors get hotter than boiling water when running just make sure engine or heads are not sitting on bottom of barrel (house bricks work well ).
What temp is the water getting to?
add a high frequency agitator and i think you could skip most of the pressure washing too :D
Pro tip: you can watch series on Flixzone. Been using them for watching loads of movies lately.
@Barrett Frederick Definitely, been using flixzone for since december myself =)
@@barrettfrederick12 ahahahahaha you’re a clown 🤡
Yeah but then you'd quickly develope pin holes in the joints, welds, and where parts rest on the bottom. High frequency agitators are pretty harsh on cheap metals. Even high end ultra sonic cleaners have an expected life span on their seamless containers.
Your mom has one of those in her nightstand. Just ask to borrow it.
I just did the same thing just last week!!!
Same zep and everything. Worked perfectly!!!!
It's good to hook a metal wire up to the parts so you can pick them up and down and swoosh them in the water .
I would add an air line to the bottom on a really low pressure to add a little agitation to the water solution
I saw this and thought “how to clean an engine, dump in trash, got it”... 👌🏻
Uh, just a thought here, heating up metal expands it, so leaving it in the solution until it’s cool and then hosing it off after it’s been sitting for a while will avoid any sudden temperature shifts thusly avoiding warping.
Engine blocks warp at 670C. Stick with cooking or laundry [Joke].
😆 lol
@@Nandranie-bu3pg Another dope identified. Aluminum heads can warp at 245'f according to some manf's, although 260-280 is more common. Stick to armchair quarterbacking.
@@boots7859 The cleaning solution isn't going much above the boiling point of water, 212F.
@@wryanddry2266Yes, but a rapid temperature change might cause some issues. I wouldn’t be surprised if it did or did not
My go to for detergent it TSP, i coat the carbon areas with oven cleaner for 15 minutes, use a large slow cooker for small parts.
Hey take a few orbital sanding pads and glue them to the can. Slap an orbital sander on it and turn it on. No joke, it's a ghetto ultrasonic cleaner. I bet it will work even better with this settup. I've gotten carbs super clean this way in a bucket.
Caution: Heated galvanized metal emits phosgene, a highly toxic colorless gas that can be lethal in concentrations as low as 2 ppm. It is crucial to opt for an alternative material for containing items like a steel drum.
There are 1500-watt electric immersion-type heaters that could be used for this as well. Might not get as hot as the propane but still enough heat to do some work. I used one in a HD tote with vinegar for derusting parts. The heater changed from a 2-week soaking down to 1-2 days.
Great idea, I'm trying this
I soak almost everything in Dollar Tree Cleaning Vinegar...
I think attaching a vibration device to the outside of the can would make a big difference; kind of like a sonic cleaner.
That's not how a sonic cleaner works.
Sonic.....
I saw some dude tie an orbital sander to something like this lol. It’s not sonic, but it might be enough agitation
@@oscarbear7498 it's agitation
Just pressure wash at your local car wash for less then 4 dollars. Spray it with degreaser then pressure rise with soap water to keep metal from rusting. You are done in 8 minutes
you wanna pressure wash with warm/hot water, cold water on hot might crack something, also next time add a bottle of coolant as well, helps prevent the flash rust you are seeing
@@dumpsterfire6351 you're a FKN genius!!!
I build many engines at my home shop, I did 55 gallon drum with insulation and lid plate on bottom, have electric band around and burner under works great have drain in bottom use Cascade dish washer soap pressure washer after long soak .
You need to blow out the internal oil passages with air right after taking it out. Or you'll have crap that will flush out upon engine start.
They said that @6:00
That's badass! Thanks for sharing... I'm going to add a drain spout and an ultrasonic agitator to mine!
How did it turn out?
Haven’t started seeing this ingenious idea just watch the fumes!! Got everything laying around, pressure clean and Garbage tank it!!
We do same thing in theory with 55 gallon barrel , turkey cooker burner , small palm sander to vibrate it .
Try spraying degreaser full strength on parts first and let them soak.
Thats come up beautiful. You could send that over to the aqua blasters without upsetting them( I've found they're normally preciuose little princess's who don't like oil and greese) well impressed with your work lads👍🏻👍👍👍👍👍
Def want to ensure the dip you use is aluminum safe. Shocking those boiling hot parts with cold water might not cause any problems.
But if it does, it'll be a throw-them-away kind of problem
That can looks to be Galvanized not Aluminum. The problem I see here is the deadly gasses that come off when you burn galvanized metal
Dude, with a hotsy pressure washer that crud will blast off clean.😎👍
REAL COOL idea I wonder if an air hose with a steel tube attached and placed in the water to the bottom with just enough pressure to make bubbles to rise up and help agitate the water would help any?
Cost me $40-50 at my local machine shop with better results, now if you wanted it better then new, you could Vapor Hone it .
Use an air wand with a long piece of brake / fuel line with a 90 degree bend at the end and just go blow air on your parts intermittently. Works like a charm. I use the bright yellow degresser from HF
So the best agitator is a sander. Bolt the pad to the side of ur tank, then put it all back together and plug it in. Lol works great
Should redo valves since you already have the head off...also why steal brush on aluminum...and don't use cold water directly after the hot tank...
Try higher heat less water and steaming the block with some gas or meth it will take off all the grime also crc's top engine cleaner for valves is really good literally soakes for ten minutes and clean
Can you guys give me any advice on where I can responsibly dump the used solution? I 'm inclined to dump it near your houses, but I don't know where you live.
I used this technique 15th years ago..but only used soap n water..put the engine one night in soap water..after that cleaned up by water..and u will see like a new engine
I clean my engine parts in the dishwasher!
Seems to work good. Needs an agitator or something to work the grime off. I worked at a machine shop with a large hot tank and the basket would move back and forth while heating it. Very caustic on the lines of what you're using but more concentrate. Purple power works great but not aluminum friendly. Dont get it on your skin. It de fats or drys out your skin bad. in days skin peels of a lot! Did you try a cast iron head or block yet?
Done the same thing with my smoker burner and a small oval wash tub and some mean green from Walmart to clean a gunky valve cover about 5yrs ago
Don’t stand close to a galvanized trash can that is being burned by fire. But yes I’m sure this works. Respirator
How do you dispose of the dirty liquid afterwards?
I'm rebuilding my 2001 Northstar engine and I bough about $60 of brake parts cleaner from Walmart.
Clean it with oven cleaner first then hot tank.
Awesome stuff... using a pain mixer rod to agitate the solution would be great way to get most of it off even better
one of the smartest videos ive watched
I used to use a plastic garbage can with a can of red devil lye and two cups of Tide . no rubbing no scrubbing!
Just had to wear rubber gloves and eye protection
Them trash cans are pretty thin today. With heat the bottom may just start leaking then you really have a mess.
Any surface rust on any steel parts of the head after a short period?
That's genious! Pouring cold water on Hot alluminium :) You can easely say these guys are amateurs...
Did it work?
Calm down guy it's galvanized 😂
Bruh it's not even that hot 😂 it's not like the thing was glowing
I could imagine the fumes from the galvanized trash can can't be good. Any time you burn galvanized the steal Will rust just the same if you scratch it.
Why not cryo-blast it with dry ice? Seems to be all the rage these days for cars bits...
Kids: Dad what's for dinner?
Dad: Engine Stew
This is hilarious. I was thinking about a steel can and looked up hot cleaning parts ideas, and your video popped up..😂 I'm glad I wasn't the first nut to do it, lol.
as soon as I saw the block I was like Honda VTEC Good ol' D16y8. Good job, cleaned up nice guys
That was a k series head and k series block though
This works so well I bought the same setup you have thanks
Impressive. I wish your description section explained what the chemicals and technique were if the video could not be watched in full.
My only concern is that what did it do to the rubber valve seals? Unless you planned on replacing them
If you're going through the trouble to tear it down that far, you should be replacing any of the rubber parts anyway since they are probably hard and brittle.
You would probably want to remove them first, that's just common sense!!!
Agree, if you're even near this stripped down anyone with an ounce of common sense already knows they're going to replace all seals, probably water pump, thermo, seats, etc. Remove 'em and toss them and have a solid rebuild.
I didn’t look at all the comments but if you had an aerator in there, if you got shop air would do wonders also. That gives some kind of movement in there. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
If they put some copper tube with small holes in it then connected it to an air line the agitation would remove the dirt way quicker. Moving agitated water is very aggressive, just look at the grand canyon to see how aggressive it can be.
I’m wondering if they just kicked over the trash can at the end.
they probably dumped in the sewer. What would you do?
@@sebastian3004 not create the waste in the first place. 😀
This looks amazing, I will defenetly try this with my 3B Diesel!
He'll yeah, out here cleaning some d series
Its an f series....
@@timm5970 sure
@@timm5970 negative the block is a y8
@@TunerThings no its an h series
6:13
The zap degreaser link is wrong one. Thanks for the tip n can’t wait to make one for myself .
2 or 3 cans of easyoff oven cleaner and the carwash is way cheaper and from what I see works better..just sayin.
I do the same thing. But with a plastic container and 2 water heater probs. Next time don't mix it.
I hope you’re going to take the valves and springs off the head , otherwise it won’t get completely clean!
55 gallon drum seems less likely to corrode through, put a lid on it, you're losing your heat.
I sprayed wd40 all over the cylinders, and areas I didn't want to rust when I cleaned my parts. Maybe overkill but didn't want to risk any rust. Small parts I put in zip locks with a paper towel as well.
Make sure to check the middle with a meat thermometer to see when it’s done. 😂 Nice work guys. Now I know what to use one of my extra 55 gallon barrels for.
looks great, my questions:
What detergent did you use?
What time did it take totally?
Is this detergent also for use on an alloy head?
Is this detergent also for decoking?
thanks alot and greetings from Europe
Use simple green or a degreaser, CLR or vinegar will work also, make sure when you remove to spray down the parts through every nook and cranny with wd-40 to prevent flash rusting
@@samwhite1345 i have an aircooled enfield cylinder, the oil and gasket could get removed by plastic beading, but the paint seems to be something like powder coated.
Do you think, it csn be removed with this methode?
@@eberhardpfeifer1620 I'd say you would have to blast the powder coating if it's not cracking already
@@samwhite1345 sandblasting?
@@eberhardpfeifer1620 Walnut shell or dry ice or vapor blasting. Sand could remain and cause damage.
Stay gold.
Great ideal I'm going to definitely use this to clean motorcycle parts in my shop thank you
Idea
Here iz the simple ez part
What happenz to the gold from
The metal can ????
Boiling cut up lemons in water does the same thing, but probably better.
They Best way ! and you don't have scratching and scratching,many hours, good idea My friend ! get luck!
Hi Mike if you want to make that clean a lot better you need something to agitate it. Therefore if your garbage can is galvanized steel you can buy an electric magnetic vibrator. That would work awesome
Good idea but looks like an F-ton of work. I just use a paintbrush and gas to loosen the crud, then spray it with Gunk engine degreaser, purple power, Dawn dishwashing liquid anything like that and pressure wash it. Same results. A real hot tank uses caustic chemicals to clean inside the coolant and oil passages, this method is just the cosmetics.
Yea just heat galvanized metal up and breath that in
I'll pay the 75 you can it hot tanked. It actually looks new with a hot tank
Nice soup. ;)
I was thinking about ultra-sonic and stuff until I saw the result of this video.
Think I'm gonna stick with the soup tank.
Thanks for sharing.
Dude has on a Kobe keep gunnin hat thats dope!
Ya he knows what’s good
Sam's club has Kohler 3400 lbs pressure washer s for under 400.00 dollars thats super cheap
If you would have poked holes in the lid and put it on, it would have boiled more and cleaned it better
I have an 1989 Ford F-350 with a 7.3 IDI diesel. Will this work also whenever I get to the chance to rebuild my engine might be a stupid question but just asking anyways 👍.
How do you dispose of what is left in the trash pale?
You tip it over
Was gonna ask how much it cost to have a shop do it for you but you answered my question before i could lol.🙋♂️
Use marvel mystery oil to prevent oxidation
You should paint it once it’s thoroughly cleaned up
Plumb in some compressed air to agitate the cleaning mixture, really works well.
White vinegar and baking soda make a badass science experiment type reaction I've used for cleaning Small Engine heads
Yeah, everyone did that in 2-3rd grade Science.... You basically made a salt solution, and all the foaming is just the acid/base reacting with each other, not the dirt and grime, etc.
Shouldve heated the water up with the zep then put a hose in it to feed a pressure washer and pressure washed it with the hot water mix
Regular pressure washer pumps cannot handle the hot water, it would have to be a hot washer which would then defeat the purpose of this
Wow! That is amazing how good that got it
Mike if you want to make that a lot better of a cleaner. I don't know if the garbage can is aluminum or galvanized steel I hope it's galvanized steel
NOT. Burning the galvanized coating off that sheet metal is a great way to get zinc nerve poisoning.
When did so many, many people seem to get so dumb the past decade or so?
what do you do with the water after your're done with it??
Storm drain
Use a dairy brush to scrub out the crevices, crooks, and crannies.
I am lucky that my local shops will do the cleaning for less than what you spent doing it yourself, nothing wrong with handling things yourself but sometimes it is just as cheap to have someone else do it.
But his setup can then do many cleans for many years for only degreaser + gas costs. Cheaper, faster, probably easier to DIY at home vs packing and travelling to the shop & pickup and return plus waiting for them to complete it. This method is a winner imho!
@@ApprenticeGM that is the beauty of life we all have our opinions on what is easier, better and faster.
@@Tiger77753 i know a couple shops locally that have done it for me for less than $50. I know everyone has different experiences/connections but at least i didnt have all that stuff to dispose of afterwards
Easy cleaning is always good , but i wonder about the parts on bottom and that hot flame hopefully it didnt warp anything.
You're not going to warp anything at less than 212°f. That water isn't even boiling
*imagine saying the same bbq joke over and over*
Ghetto people say the same things over and over and over like a broken record.
He doing this in yeezys! haha mechanic of the year!
How do you dispose of the waste?? I'll pay the machine shop.
gutter
You are a pump and a cleaning tray away from having your own "Safety Kleen" style machine
What about the rust?
Suggest using brass brush
Use a steel 55 gallon drum instead.
You should use 3 zip orange cleaner