Thanks so much for watching! Here are some of the links we mentioned. OBDeleven Next Gen (iOS and Android) Pro www.shopdap.com/nextgen-obdeleven-ios-android-vw-audi-scantool.html MK7 Intake Cam Replacement Kit www.shopdap.com/intake-camshaft-replacement-kit.html 2.0t TSI Timing Chain Special Tool Kit www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/tools/20t-tsi-timing-chain-special-tool-install-kit.html T10355 Crank Holder Tool www.shopdap.com/1-2-drive-crank-counter-hold-tool-for-vw-t10355-wkz-t10355.html Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V2) www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-for-t10352-2.html Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V4) www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-t10352-4-for-gen-3-1-8t-and-2-0t.html Tensioner Adjustment Lever for VW T40243 www.shopdap.com/tensioner-adjustment-lever-for-vw-t40243-wkz-t40243.html
I contacted Charles a few years ago about this very issue on an MK6 Jetta 1.8t about him making a video about this issue, but he never responded to my messages. Thank you, Paul and keep up the good work!
Hey guys love your videos. When I start my mk7R, there is this “buzzing noise” that can be heard. It sounds like it goes away at idle, but when driving you can hear it. The best way to explain it is a buzz noise that changes with engine rpm.
these cars burn more oil than gas! the dealer tells you its normal that it consumes 1l every 1k km. funny cuz my camry v6 doesnt miss a drop od oil after 5k km.
Pro tip to make installing the cam cage easier: find some long bolts with the same thread/pitch as two of the stock screws that secure it to the engine and cut the heads off. Insert these long bolts so that they’re effectively studs. Use these studs to perfectly line up the cam cage to guarantee that your sealant gets sandwiched in place perfectly with zero lateral movement. Insert hardware, remove studs, and off you go.
Very good video and makes the point of OIL LEVEL! However, the noise, usually on start up, or while running, indicated the failed camshaft adjuster unit as stated. The "hunting" value block is 99% of the time caused by the magnet itself sticking due to sludged oil stuck in the solenoid plunger from the car being ran low on oil or infrequent oil changes. If you have the faults with a hunting idle and value block, replace the magnet.
changed magents 4 times in the lifetime of my mk7 gti. then finally the one valve decided to come apart. Have not had issues for a good few KM but just upgraded to a 7.5Gti. Sticking with the Gen3 engine with all the issues Ive had. I will always check oil !
BMW B series engines have the same design of solenoid and seem to experience the same issue with sticking, causing poor idle quality and bad drivability.
I change my oil every 5000km or 6000km and the plunger still got stuck and failed and left me fucking stranded in a parking lot. This has nothing to do with infrequent oil changes its just terrible design by VW.
I just had to change the camshaft magnet on my S3 because I kept getting Camshaft timing over advanced error codes and check engine lights. The part was super cheap and replacing it is easy. Doing this also smoothed out throttle response and improved MPGs. No need to replace the camshaft as the adjuster and magnet itself was the culprit. Always start with the cheap and easy work first to see if that fixes your issue. Replacing Cams should be a last resort if everything else doesn't fix it. For good measure, I checked the valve solenoid to ensure there were no issues with the part itself, gave it a brake fluid bath, and reinstalled it. All good now for the last couple thousand miles.
I had the same on my golf R VW said it was the chain so had it changed (1k+) however fault was still there so I changed the cam adjuster sensor and it worked fine😅
@@RetroTubing Yeah man; mechanically these cars are rock solid. It's the damn electronics that cause all the glitches. You've got to be on top of your battery to make sure you don't get phantom codes and then also things like this, where small parts go bad (that are thankfully cheap). Everyone who owns one of these cars owes it to themselves to spend the $35 bucks to get access to the Audi Erwin database and download all the PDF's for their vehicle. It'll pay for itself by thousands of dollars over and over in savings for stupid, poorly diagnosed issues from those not in the know
@Kimochiii 150 is prob realistic without an insane amount of maintenance. Past that I could see it getting complicated (ie timing chain replacement, who knows what else could break at that point).
@@MeltingRubberZ28 If DSG, the DSG FW last around 150k to 200k, there will be definite wear on the balance shafts, water and oil pump, followed by wheel bearings. These cars once past 100k one is driving on borrowed time.
Hi, Audi tech here. We get cars rolling in with this problem pretty often. We never replace the camshaft tho we just replace the plungers and the magnets. This solves the problem. Just replaced them on a Golf R this saturday and it's running like new.
Ford tech here, so im no stranger to vct issues lol, my S3 at idle sometimes (not all times) the RPMs start jumping almost like i have a old school cammed out v8. once i start driving its fine and then it goes away at the next stop. have a p0011 code. was going to just replace the solenoid until i saw this. thoughts?
im having this issue right now and we have unplugged both phasers and change the valve spool and the ticking noise still persists. should i assume its the intake cam or replace both phasers and see then
We’ve seen this issues several times now on both 1.8 and 2.0 engines at our shop. Not super common but definitely something to keep an eye out for if you’ve got timing faults.
Worth properly diagnosing too. I had the exact faults that Paul had, but in my 2009 Tiguan. Assumed it was the timing chain, but after teardown, I realized the chain & tensioner was actually good and was updated. With some digging I found that my intake cam had gone bad too. Interesting to see this never got fixed on these updated engines.
@@e0nema0tak1v its possible but I believe my stuff went bad due to balance shaft failure and the oil screens blowing oil causing metal shrapnel to score small bearing surfaces and clog oil galleries. Fairly well documented on TSI's. Great engines, but man they can fail in many catastrophic ways.
I had a similar issue with hunting, but it was just because the cam magnet was bad! The old owner didn’t keep up with oil changes so it got junked up and couldn’t move properly. New cam magnet installed (just takes a couple of minutes) and now the specified and actual values are within 0.5 of each other 🎉
I've experience the electronic magnet nipple that actuates the cam adjustment valve sticking too. Causing same faults. A nice easy check before going to the full camshaft
I had this issue in my 2016 R. The screen on the oil control valve was ripped. Lucky no debris caused damage. Oil level was fine. I am now considering this a consumable part and will be changing them every 100,000 km's no matter what. The part isn't very expensive and once you have the proper tool to change them it takes about the same amount of time as an oil change. I see lots of posts on the Facebook Groups about people having this issue.
I was told the 2016 had the oil valve integrated, thus the removal of the entire intake camshaft. I also have a 2016 R with the tapping sound that goes away when unplugging the cam magnet. Are you saying I won't need to pull the entire camshaft?
So just completed this job on my A4 with Gen3 motor - just wanted to say thanks for the video as it was spot on with the problem i had with my car. replaced both Exhaust and Intake cams (both had scoring on the snout part) with new spool valves, adjusters and timing kit at the same time. cars runs like new now - :) Thanks again
Years ago a friend in the 90’s had a Passat, and he always had the maintenance up to date. However the engine grenades due to an old timing belt. Dealership was going to charge him for repairs until he took out his owners maintenance log and the dealership had stamped that he had gotten the timing belt replaced 😊. They had charged for the work but never did it 😮
Love the detailed specs and the obd11 screenshots. Please continue doing this so we can learn how to diagnose ourselves if we have the app. Thank You!!
VW tech here: To know if its the N205 valve, first unplug it to see if the sound and characteristics of the engine changes, if it does then you have a bad valve. To confirm further, remove the valve and check the plunger/nipple . If the punger/nipple shows any resistance in moving in/out, the valve is bad and needs replacement. PS. Make sure you have OIL IN IT!!! 😂 GL!
The plunger(spoolvalve) in the center of the camshaft actually failed on my ‘13 mk7 gti, Causing it to sound a TDI. It did have oil in the engine though😂. Replacing the plunger fixed the problem and prevented from buying a whole new camshaft. This was around 140k km’s. Fun to see how this whole part work, keep up the informative videos!
Hello, any chance you can add me on some sort of other social media so I can send you a video of what mine sounds like so you can tell me wether it was the same as yours. Had this issue for ages now and it’s stressing me out as no one can diagnose it
Can confirm. My S3 is on it's third (inlet) camshaft. It's freakishly well serviced, getting oilchanges ~4-5k km yearly. My problems were. 1st time: -strange throttle response. Sometimes more, sometimes less power than expected. Second time it was replaced because second one failed immediately. Third change was because I heard the ticking noise. Oil got pushed out the seal (and in the connector). This is pretty common said the (experienced) Audi technician. Timing chain was also replaced. Stretching of the chain seems to have a lot to do with failure on the cams.
I had exactly the same noise on my 2011 1.8tfsi ... replaced the timing chain & tentioner, replaced all the surrounding sensors... the noise never went away, so this was the very last thing left to replace... at least now I know this will definitely fix it...
Had a load of these failures in our shop over here in the Netherlands. We only replace the solenoid and the spool valves. So far it always fixed the problem. So replacing the whole cam kinda seems overkill and unnecessary to me.. However i can imagine the seals going bad if it’s driven for an extended time with the variator clapping from cheek to cheek…
That seems also more logic to me. The solenoid maybe loses some of its force or whatsoever overtime While I couldn't imagine the adjustable cam isn't gone bad. Hopefully this is not becaming a problem on my a3 with gen3 engine (40tfsi 2019). I believe this is the same engine.
"Had a load of these failures in our shop over here in the Netherlands." Could it be due to owners follow the onboard service monitor / extended oil change intervals? Or is that of no relevance, and it is wasteful to change oil more often than VW's skilled engineers specify?
@@TassieLorenzo That's actually a good point. I mean I change oil on my cars every 10-12k kilometers. For someone is 25k nothing and VW recommends each 40k? Same goes for the DSG. I mean sure can sometimes but I mean to be frequent as that, kinda smells to me.
Exact thing that happened to my GF's GLI even down to the sound. VW diagnosed it 100 miles out of warranty but ended up covering it under good will. The sound was very apparent inside and outside of the car.
Did they give you a cost for the repair? I'm out of warranty and I fear this is my problem currently. Just looking to get an idea of how much pain I'm about to be in
@@f2tzoomzoomI don't remember the exact number but it was not cheap, like $2500+, but understand that was the dealer. I'm sure an independent shop would have cut that price significantly. The price was why we kept pushing for it to be covered, we had to get VW corporate involved, but it worked. Good luck!
Its nice to see this video because I had this same problem with my gti and it is in the shop right now being fixed, (its been there for 3 months) something to look out for is that this problem shares a lot of symptoms with other problems so just look out for that if you have this same issue
I had the cam adjustment magnets replaced in mine 2 weeks ago, the car seemed like it was a bit noisy (similar to the noise in your video) and the car was idling a bit rough (not enough to be overly concerned) the car has a full service history and I top the oil up about once a month (mine likes to drink a lot) unfortunately, the thing died at the side of the road and couldn't be restarted. Ironically, it died on its way to the mechanic (not the dealer but a very good local European car specialist) Not a cheap repair but the car drives fantastic now. I am glad I didn't need full cam shaft replacement and that the magnets were the only thing that needed replacing. Car had 155,000km (about 96,000mi) when it finally went.
Very informative video! I just did the timing assembly on my mk5 a few days ago and wondered what was behind that intake cam sprocket.. duhh of course it’s the phase adjustment. But beyond that, when performing the work I heard some interesting noises and seen some weird things with this motor. I’m glad I get to see another expert explain the full function in detail
I changed my pan now its half a quart 2500miles. It is very loud in when i start guessing need new magnet as one of the guy stated above in comments. Man can’t afford a camshaft labor gonna be hella expensive just spent 1500$ on water pump n carbon cleaning 😅
This was the Best video I have ever saw in regards to repairing anything on car. Blowed my mind away. 🤯 Man good job keep it up ! 😁😳 ( not a Vag owner ) 😂
whew title scared me I have the GTI though and do my own oil, hasnt been burning oil and I havent had any of those codes come up when I scan. Glad this seems like mostly a preventable issue.
I had this problem, it was difficult to get a fault code out of it for some reason. Only replaced the magnetic piece that's hold by 3 allen screws on the intake side and the problem was fixed.
Yup, I had this exact issue at about 150k miles, my MK7 GTI was totaled by a drunk driver a few weeks after but I had the exact same camshaft codes, same tick, loss of power at the high end and issues would appear seemingly out of nowhere!
I have replaced so many of these cams in the past 3 months. As you said, mostly 1.8’s. Thank God these cams (non-lift control) are only like $400. The gen 1 cams are over $1k. The other common failure I’ve seen is the lock pin deciding it doesn’t want to lock anymore. You unplug the cam magnet and the timing keeps wandering.
My MK7 1.8t runs pretty well but it's idle is sometimes erratic. I've been using 5w40 for the last 30,000 miles because for some reason when I use 5w30 I get oil pressure errors when the car is idling for a few minutes (beeing at a stop light for 5 minutes for example). Topping the oil level to the max with 5w40 help to eliminate the oil pressure error, but I still have sudden shakes at idle from time to time and sporadic jerky movements when I move from a full stop. What are your thoughts on this issue? Could it be related to faulty camshaft?
@@luisarsuaga7637 It could be a cam, however unless you’re getting a decent rattle noise at idle almost all of the time, I’d say you’re good. It’s more than likely the cam magnet (plastic disc with a plug in the end) is failing. We do tons of those at the dealer. Easiest way to tell, let the car warmup and idle. When the engine starts stumbling, unplug that magnet and see what happens. If the magnet has failed, the idle should smooth out almost immediately. The magnet is $125 and pretty easy to replace. Just make sure you replace the three T30 screws that hold it in place. They’re aluminum and will break off if you reuse the old ones. Also if you plan to do the work, follow the torque specs precisely on those bolts or the new ones will break.
@@JohnEvans-ct6mz I have a question, do you really need the tool which were showed in the video for the tensioner? It looks like you can do it without the tool.
@@Fetii I presume you are referring to the tool to release the tensioner. If you do the repair without removing the lower timing cover, you absolutely need that tool. It allows you to compress the tensioner to release the tension on the chain. If you don’t use it, the tensioner has enough spring pressure to fully extend itself and you will be unable to install the new cam. If you remove the lower timing cover, you can remove the tensioner completely and avoid using the tool but you have to reseal the cover, and find a way to keep the sprocket from popping off of the crankshaft. That tool also gives you the necessary leverage to compress the tensioner, the spring is quite strong.
i've had this issue on my '14 mk7 gti on idle exclusively and replacing the spool valve on admission camshaft solved it. I've had 20k km since then, never heard it.
Good video for explaining how the cams work, but a little bit dramatic. If that knocking sound is there, but goes away when magnetic solenoid is unplugged, the first port of call should he to replace the magnets. Failing that, next up is the spool valve of whichever cam is making the noise - most likely, will be intake. Make sure you carefully order the right valve for your car, very imoortant. This will in most cases likely fix the issue without having to tear apart the rest. Of course, it may be that the camshaft is indeed bad - but DAP should explain what I and others have just said rather than immediately jumping to 'the whole camshaft is bad'
Thanks for this comment! I have the noise for 1 second max on start up (no fault codes). I can't really measure it with unplugging the magnet as its so brief (or could unplug before starting the engine?) I've checked the cam phase adaptations on vcds and the intake is at 0.3 degrees but exhaust is at 2.6 degrees. Am I to assume that it's actually the exhaust magnet/spool/camshaft making the noise? Thanks in advance.
@@CabinetFramingUK If it only happens for a split second on cold start up, it is unlikely either than magnet or spool valve is your issue as the rattling with these problems is persistent at idle, and with a scan tool you can see the inlet cam timing hunting up and down. These cars do normally sometimes make a somewhat odd noise on cold start....I believe it's to do with additional air injection, could that be what is happening with yours?
My GTI burned oil from day one but not much, made to 100k with only a heater core issue that leaked like crazy. Honestly it was the most reliable car I’ve ever had. During Covid it was hit and run, took 3 months for it to go to the shop and they started it with no oil and ruined the engine. Don’t know where the oil was leaking from after the hit but I made sure to let my insurance and the car crafters know but they didn’t check the oil before starting the engine.
I just had my rear upper break light resealed as that was letting water in. Oh and also the pressure vents behind the rear bumper. Still got water on my rear right door sill after resealing speaker seals and clearing drainage pipe in door. Not sure what it can be now
I'm probably older than most of you guys and as a rule of thumb, you should check your oil level weekly, i've been doin' it from i was a teenager advised by the elders. Nowadays epecially cars of today with a turbo!
I had a similar problem but the timing jitter was around 3-4 degrees. Replacing just the electromagnet fixed it. Even after cleaning the push pin, it still moves roughly on the bench (I use a variable power supply). The push pin was just worn out. It holds to 0.5 degrees now.
I've personally had 3 different Gen 3 motors all owned from New. 2017 Jetta Sport 1.8T (Mexico) (Same engine platform) - Zero Oil issues - Traded @ 48k Miles. 30k of the miles were with Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output. 2019 Jetta GLI Autobahn 2.0T (Mexico) (Same as GTI engine) - Zero Oil Issues - VW Bought back/Lemon'd it @28k Miles for unfixable A/C issue. 10k of the Miles were with a Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output. 2020 Arteon SEL R-Line 4Motion 2.0T (Germany) (Tuned Down Golf R) - Zero Oil Issues - Currently @ 22K Miles - AWD forced me to buy a set of 4 new tires at 10k due to 2 - consecutive weeks of blowouts due to shitty roads by our office.... And then brakes require rotors and pads at only 20k. None of my 3 modern VWs with same engine family have had oil related issues at all even with me romping HARD on them. The only thing I've done is consistent maintenance by the book, always, always, always follow the break-in procedure to a tee, and only use Top-Tier branded gasoline and keeping every receipt for record 😅 Maybe its luck but I've only had issues with everything but engine/oil issues lol. But I've also been lucky enough to not have gone past 50k miles though so who knows. Maybe after some miles they get worse 😅 Just my experience 😁 TL;DR - 3 VWs with same engine family no engine or oil issues. Only other things 😅
My U.K. car is a 20l5 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 diesel which may be a big issue in time is the double overhead camshafts area chain driven which is at the rear of the engine so fun and games if it needs replaceing
My MK7.5 started drinking oil at 6k miles, dealers just kept saying it was "Normal", had to drive around with oil because the "Check oil level" light kept coming on. Then she started knock, knock, knockin' when i was in the McDonalds drive-thru. Needless to say, I sold it back to the dealer with 10k miles on it.
We had the problem on the GTI, but it was the solenoid that caused it. started to stutter like a maniac. noone thought this would fail at 40k miles so it wasnt the first thing to be changed in the end. Killed the timing chain in the process.
Wanted to post here in case it helps anyone else out. My MK6 Jetta GLI started having this issue and at first I thought that I was out of luck for getting a replacement vvt oil valve for the original camshaft (miscommunication with the parts guy). The factory spool valve is part 06K 109 257. This part is 21mm and fits the original camshaft, but there is a new valve that is 20mm and fits the updated camshaft. After some research, I was able to replace this part with 06L 109 257F to fix the rattling issue.
Had the exact problem, was chasng the cause of it for about a year and half. Problem with my car wasnt in oil starvation, but worned out magnets and camshaft actuators. They were completely blocked. After putting new ones, the sound mentioned in the video showed after 5k km. After replacing them with the new ones, the sound was gone, but car was losing oil pressure at about 3k rpm and went into limp mode when warm oil. Oil pressure test showed everything was fine. Then after a year, low oil pressure warning came up. I found that the camshafts were losing presure in cambridge. New cambridge and camshafts, but then the turbo blew. Hopefully everything is ok now
I knew from the very beginning to change oil way more often than the dealer says, and use the OEM oil filter with the specified oil. Engine will last a long time, even if it’s being driven hard
I agree...I bought my MK7 brand new and only drove maybe 8000-10000KM per year (and that kilometers) and I changed mine twice a year still. I did the intake service too once a year until I sold it. It didn't burn a drop of oil and didn't give me problems. That extra maintenance was so easy and I felt good about selling it knowing I'd done what I can to prolong it's life
Every segment Paul has another piece of ShopDap gear on… love the content and the informative videos. Is there any more coming for the Mk7 Alltrack project?
Hi sir very nice explanation and information ,must of the new cars and trucks have the problem of consuming oil so people think you don't have to check oil level between oil change period and excess of time an kilometers or milles because they use synthetic oil...blessings
Couple of questions. 1. Is this uncommon problem affecting both the CXCA/CXCB and DKFA versions of this EA888?? 2. Where is the "f*cking oil" going? I know on my 2020 GTI I lose about 8-10 oz of oil every 2-3k miles. My tail pipes are spotless, no leaks, and no check engine lights. I mean if it was burning it?? The O2 sensors would pick it up. I mean damn those sensors are so sensitive in these newer cars you fart in the car the check engine light comes on. Is is it just evaporative loss?? and if so, could this be resolved by using a 504 oil instead of a 508?? Thank Your for your Time and Input.👍
been thinking about going import (other than honda)... Been searching for hours for most common issues with these cars. I would hate to get a new(er) car and not be able to work on it. This video helps
Thanks! This channel is doooope and so was this video, wish I could be as smart as you! Maybe one day I will learn how to do mechanic work for my own cars!
I have a 2016 VW GLI with 140K miles on the clock now. The only two things that ever broke were the clockspring and a single rear ABS sensor, both of which the VAG is obviously unable to fix. Otherwisely, at this time the oil consumption is 1 Qt per 4K miles and everything else is as good as new. I've been changing the oil every 5K since day one, OEM, and it seemed to have done the trick. I'm still to decarb the car for the very first time, just as a preventative measure, no misfires or anything like that.
I’ve allready changed both on my GTI 😂 first the admission one and after 40k kms de exhaust. maybe more common than we think I only changed the outside magnet and solved the problem
It would be really helpful if the manufacturer was honest. Change your oil every 3k miles and you wouldn't have gunked up rings burning oil in the first place. Would be nice if we could trust the manufacturers advice. SMH
Excellent informational video, I am now convinced to replace the intake cam on my 2011 TFSI 2.0. aihave been battling timing error codes, engine was rebuild, pistons replaced oil pump, balance shafts Exct. . . .new timing components and still had timing issue codes, intake cam was never replaced 💀💀Wish me Luck 🫡
I change the oil every 5K in my 2018 Golf 1.8 TSI Gen 3. Also check it frequently. After 75K, no problems and no oil use. If you are obsessive about performing all maintenance on your VW you should have no problems. If not, expect big problems.
Yes and No... they are no Toyotas that changing the oil will save you from a auto shop repair bill once past 100k. If it is DSG, there is no way around replacing the flywheel at high miles, the water pump, coil packs, oil pump, wheel bearings are normal tear and wear in the 100k to 200k mile range. A Toyota can go 300k and maybe need a new water pump or a bad bearing tensioner as long as oil changes are made, something that cannot achieved by VW if doing the same.
My car has a ticking sound similar to this, but does not happen at idle. Replaced the magnet and oil control valve but still have a knock sound. Let me know if you would be willing to talk to me about this issue, I cant find anybody that knows anything about these engines! Took the car to a shop and they said nothing is wrong...
Well, this is depressing. My 1.8T sounds like this all the time. I check the oil weekly and add LiquiMoly as required. At 118,000 mi, I had wondered if I should check the upper valves for carbon build up. If the camshaft needs to be replaced, RepairPal estimates a $2,800 repair, which is just over half of what I still owe on the loan. Seriously wondering if I should find a remanufactured engine or rebuild or something. This car's resale value is going to tank, especially with used car prices coming back to reality. Thanks for the video!
You can start by replacing the adjuster magnet only and maybe cleaning the spool valve. There should also be new spool valves that aren't just the most current revision, too. You'd just need to get the right part number
Paul I would like to know how much it would come out to put a turbo and change the time chain to my Volkswagen GTI MK6 ... I like your videos every day you get funnier
Interesting! I was concerned that was what the issue was on my 1.8 gen 3 in my Sportwagen but it was the timing chain tensioners....at ~70K the bolts holding it to the block snapped.
Lovely. As if the water pump on the wife's 2014 Jetta wasn't enough bs to piss you off from being plastic leaking junk ,now this. Definitely selling this thing in a couple years. 90k on it now ,I'll definitely sell it by 130k.
Thanks so much for watching! Here are some of the links we mentioned.
OBDeleven Next Gen (iOS and Android) Pro
www.shopdap.com/nextgen-obdeleven-ios-android-vw-audi-scantool.html
MK7 Intake Cam Replacement Kit
www.shopdap.com/intake-camshaft-replacement-kit.html
2.0t TSI Timing Chain Special Tool Kit
www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/tools/20t-tsi-timing-chain-special-tool-install-kit.html
T10355 Crank Holder Tool
www.shopdap.com/1-2-drive-crank-counter-hold-tool-for-vw-t10355-wkz-t10355.html
Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V2)
www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-for-t10352-2.html
Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V4)
www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-t10352-4-for-gen-3-1-8t-and-2-0t.html
Tensioner Adjustment Lever for VW T40243
www.shopdap.com/tensioner-adjustment-lever-for-vw-t40243-wkz-t40243.html
I contacted Charles a few years ago about this very issue on an MK6 Jetta 1.8t about him making a video about this issue, but he never responded to my messages.
Thank you, Paul and keep up the good work!
Please do a video on EPC light on a MK7
Hey guys love your videos. When I start my mk7R, there is this “buzzing noise” that can be heard. It sounds like it goes away at idle, but when driving you can hear it. The best way to explain it is a buzz noise that changes with engine rpm.
Paul having a crisis over lack of oil in these engines brightens my day 😅
Totally - "Do you know what else has a crisis over lack of oil? Your cam adjusters!" 🤯
It will encourage people to check more often
these cars burn more oil than gas! the dealer tells you its normal that it consumes 1l every 1k km. funny cuz my camry v6 doesnt miss a drop od oil after 5k km.
as I'm ordering my next batch of oil lol
Was a vw tech for 47 years and checked the oil on all the cars I worked on (a habit) 90% were always down on level.
Pro tip to make installing the cam cage easier: find some long bolts with the same thread/pitch as two of the stock screws that secure it to the engine and cut the heads off. Insert these long bolts so that they’re effectively studs. Use these studs to perfectly line up the cam cage to guarantee that your sealant gets sandwiched in place perfectly with zero lateral movement. Insert hardware, remove studs, and off you go.
I'm getting that oil is causing all kinds of problems in engines, definitely going to go get rid of all of mine so my timing phasors don't make noise
Very good video and makes the point of OIL LEVEL! However, the noise, usually on start up, or while running, indicated the failed camshaft adjuster unit as stated. The "hunting" value block is 99% of the time caused by the magnet itself sticking due to sludged oil stuck in the solenoid plunger from the car being ran low on oil or infrequent oil changes. If you have the faults with a hunting idle and value block, replace the magnet.
changed magents 4 times in the lifetime of my mk7 gti. then finally the one valve decided to come apart. Have not had issues for a good few KM but just upgraded to a 7.5Gti. Sticking with the Gen3 engine with all the issues Ive had. I will always check oil !
BMW B series engines have the same design of solenoid and seem to experience the same issue with sticking, causing poor idle quality and bad drivability.
I change my oil every 5000km or 6000km and the plunger still got stuck and failed and left me fucking stranded in a parking lot. This has nothing to do with infrequent oil changes its just terrible design by VW.
I just had to change the camshaft magnet on my S3 because I kept getting Camshaft timing over advanced error codes and check engine lights. The part was super cheap and replacing it is easy. Doing this also smoothed out throttle response and improved MPGs. No need to replace the camshaft as the adjuster and magnet itself was the culprit. Always start with the cheap and easy work first to see if that fixes your issue. Replacing Cams should be a last resort if everything else doesn't fix it.
For good measure, I checked the valve solenoid to ensure there were no issues with the part itself, gave it a brake fluid bath, and reinstalled it. All good now for the last couple thousand miles.
This. Common fix to change magnets on the Cupra forum I'm on too.
I had the same on my golf R VW said it was the chain so had it changed (1k+) however fault was still there so I changed the cam adjuster sensor and it worked fine😅
@@RetroTubing Yeah man; mechanically these cars are rock solid. It's the damn electronics that cause all the glitches. You've got to be on top of your battery to make sure you don't get phantom codes and then also things like this, where small parts go bad (that are thankfully cheap).
Everyone who owns one of these cars owes it to themselves to spend the $35 bucks to get access to the Audi Erwin database and download all the PDF's for their vehicle. It'll pay for itself by thousands of dollars over and over in savings for stupid, poorly diagnosed issues from those not in the know
@treize elements What codes were you getting?
@@von6164 a lot of timing over (and under) advanced codes. I don’t remember the exact code numbers, but that’s what they were telling me
I'm at 170k miles on my mk7 GTI. Thank you for including obdeleven methods of checking. Good to know it doesn't grenade the engine if it's caught.
Any major issues at that mileage?
@@63JackBlack i need to know too cause im deciding whether to pull the trigger on a 2021 gti and i wanna keep it till maybe 150 - 200k miles
@Kimochiii 150 is prob realistic without an insane amount of maintenance. Past that I could see it getting complicated (ie timing chain replacement, who knows what else could break at that point).
@@MeltingRubberZ28 If DSG, the DSG FW last around 150k to 200k, there will be definite wear on the balance shafts, water and oil pump, followed by wheel bearings.
These cars once past 100k one is driving on borrowed time.
@LM Space yeah I'm hoping for about 120 without significant maintenance. Prob end up selling around that time...and buying a boring Toyota lol
Bought my 18 GTI Se Dsg new. Currently have 124k miles. No oil burning. 7500-8k mile oil changes. Never done carbon cleaning. Still smooth.
Hi, Audi tech here. We get cars rolling in with this problem pretty often. We never replace the camshaft tho we just replace the plungers and the magnets. This solves the problem. Just replaced them on a Golf R this saturday and it's running like new.
Ford tech here, so im no stranger to vct issues lol, my S3 at idle sometimes (not all times) the RPMs start jumping almost like i have a old school cammed out v8. once i start driving its fine and then it goes away at the next stop. have a p0011 code. was going to just replace the solenoid until i saw this. thoughts?
I got 2021 A4 with 20k on it. Should I be worried? Anything to prevent this?
Did you replace both magnets and plungers on both?
im having this issue right now and we have unplugged both phasers and change the valve spool and the ticking noise still persists. should i assume its the intake cam or replace both phasers and see then
@senco981 yes be very worried you bought a time bomb, get rid of it asap
How Paul never made it as a stand-up comic i'll never known. I look forward to these videos for the great info and the occasional chuckle-snort.
We’ve seen this issues several times now on both 1.8 and 2.0 engines at our shop. Not super common but definitely something to keep an eye out for if you’ve got timing faults.
Worth properly diagnosing too. I had the exact faults that Paul had, but in my 2009 Tiguan. Assumed it was the timing chain, but after teardown, I realized the chain & tensioner was actually good and was updated. With some digging I found that my intake cam had gone bad too. Interesting to see this never got fixed on these updated engines.
@@brandonfriesen5389 They cant fix "owners not putting enough oil in the car "problem.
@@e0nema0tak1v its possible but I believe my stuff went bad due to balance shaft failure and the oil screens blowing oil causing metal shrapnel to score small bearing surfaces and clog oil galleries. Fairly well documented on TSI's. Great engines, but man they can fail in many catastrophic ways.
I had a similar issue with hunting, but it was just because the cam magnet was bad!
The old owner didn’t keep up with oil changes so it got junked up and couldn’t move properly. New cam magnet installed (just takes a couple of minutes) and now the specified and actual values are within 0.5 of each other 🎉
I've experience the electronic magnet nipple that actuates the cam adjustment valve sticking too. Causing same faults. A nice easy check before going to the full camshaft
I had this issue in my 2016 R. The screen on the oil control valve was ripped. Lucky no debris caused damage. Oil level was fine. I am now considering this a consumable part and will be changing them every 100,000 km's no matter what. The part isn't very expensive and once you have the proper tool to change them it takes about the same amount of time as an oil change. I see lots of posts on the Facebook Groups about people having this issue.
i have a 17 passat and im trying to stay on top of preventative maintenance, what tools do you have and what parts are you referencing? :)
I was told the 2016 had the oil valve integrated, thus the removal of the entire intake camshaft. I also have a 2016 R with the tapping sound that goes away when unplugging the cam magnet. Are you saying I won't need to pull the entire camshaft?
So just completed this job on my A4 with Gen3 motor - just wanted to say thanks for the video as it was spot on with the problem i had with my car. replaced both Exhaust and Intake cams (both had scoring on the snout part) with new spool valves, adjusters and timing kit at the same time.
cars runs like new now - :)
Thanks again
Nice to see this problem. I have an 1.8T from gen3 in my Skoda, and now I will watch my oil level more often. Thank you!
That was gold, Pro tip "Check your F*&k3n oil" Who would have thought, haha
Years ago a friend in the 90’s had a Passat, and he always had the maintenance up to date. However the engine grenades due to an old timing belt. Dealership was going to charge him for repairs until he took out his owners maintenance log and the dealership had stamped that he had gotten the timing belt replaced 😊. They had charged for the work but never did it 😮
You guys recently replaced my intake cam. No problems since then! Amazing shop
This has to be your best video so far. I laugh so much but it was important and educative at the same time
Love the detailed specs and the obd11 screenshots. Please continue doing this so we can learn how to diagnose ourselves if we have the app. Thank You!!
VW tech here: To know if its the N205 valve, first unplug it to see if the sound and characteristics of the engine changes, if it does then you have a bad valve. To confirm further, remove the valve and check the plunger/nipple . If the punger/nipple shows any resistance in moving in/out, the valve is bad and needs replacement. PS. Make sure you have OIL IN IT!!! 😂 GL!
but he said you can't just replace the valve 😕...... the entire kit has to be used
@@voffchik26 he is in the business of selling parts, what do you expect
I just heard that noise coming from my GTI a couple days ago. I definitely have oil and I change my oil every 5k miles. Thanks for the bad news
The plunger(spoolvalve) in the center of the camshaft actually failed on my ‘13 mk7 gti, Causing it to sound a TDI. It did have oil in the engine though😂. Replacing the plunger fixed the problem and prevented from buying a whole new camshaft. This was around 140k km’s.
Fun to see how this whole part work, keep up the informative videos!
Hello, any chance you can add me on some sort of other social media so I can send you a video of what mine sounds like so you can tell me wether it was the same as yours. Had this issue for ages now and it’s stressing me out as no one can diagnose it
Can confirm.
My S3 is on it's third (inlet) camshaft.
It's freakishly well serviced, getting oilchanges ~4-5k km yearly.
My problems were. 1st time:
-strange throttle response. Sometimes more, sometimes less power than expected.
Second time it was replaced because second one failed immediately.
Third change was because I heard the ticking noise.
Oil got pushed out the seal (and in the connector). This is pretty common said the (experienced) Audi technician.
Timing chain was also replaced.
Stretching of the chain seems to have a lot to do with failure on the cams.
Wow, that is worrisome, how many miles you got on S3?
@@senco981
It now has 150k km~ 90k in miles.
It all started at 60k miles. ~100k km.
@@theowarmelink7347 Thanks
I had exactly the same noise on my 2011 1.8tfsi ... replaced the timing chain & tentioner, replaced all the surrounding sensors... the noise never went away, so this was the very last thing left to replace... at least now I know this will definitely fix it...
Had a load of these failures in our shop over here in the Netherlands.
We only replace the solenoid and the spool valves. So far it always fixed the problem. So replacing the whole cam kinda seems overkill and unnecessary to me..
However i can imagine the seals going bad if it’s driven for an extended time with the variator clapping from cheek to cheek…
What are some other major mk7 or mk7.5 issues you see?
That seems also more logic to me. The solenoid maybe loses some of its force or whatsoever overtime While I couldn't imagine the adjustable cam isn't gone bad.
Hopefully this is not becaming a problem on my a3 with gen3 engine (40tfsi 2019). I believe this is the same engine.
Thank you for sharing this.
"Had a load of these failures in our shop over here in the Netherlands." Could it be due to owners follow the onboard service monitor / extended oil change intervals? Or is that of no relevance, and it is wasteful to change oil more often than VW's skilled engineers specify?
@@TassieLorenzo That's actually a good point. I mean I change oil on my cars every 10-12k kilometers. For someone is 25k nothing and VW recommends each 40k? Same goes for the DSG. I mean sure can sometimes but I mean to be frequent as that, kinda smells to me.
Exact thing that happened to my GF's GLI even down to the sound. VW diagnosed it 100 miles out of warranty but ended up covering it under good will. The sound was very apparent inside and outside of the car.
Did they give you a cost for the repair? I'm out of warranty and I fear this is my problem currently. Just looking to get an idea of how much pain I'm about to be in
@@f2tzoomzoomI don't remember the exact number but it was not cheap, like $2500+, but understand that was the dealer. I'm sure an independent shop would have cut that price significantly. The price was why we kept pushing for it to be covered, we had to get VW corporate involved, but it worked. Good luck!
Oil seems to be the constant issue with these cars!! lol Why do we love these cars!!? Very informative!! Thank you!!
Its nice to see this video because I had this same problem with my gti and it is in the shop right now being fixed, (its been there for 3 months) something to look out for is that this problem shares a lot of symptoms with other problems so just look out for that if you have this same issue
Parts availability issues? 3 months is a long time, that would make me nervous ...
Did you have an idle sounding like a diesel?
@@jp2246 it’s because the dealer ship had some parts on back order and there was apparently a lot of other cars that needed to be serviced before mine
@@andrewmankowski2301 yeah it sounded like a diesel tractor and stalled at like every stop
@@pollux9696 good luck on the repairs and hope you get your GTI back soon
I had the cam adjustment magnets replaced in mine 2 weeks ago, the car seemed like it was a bit noisy (similar to the noise in your video) and the car was idling a bit rough (not enough to be overly concerned) the car has a full service history and I top the oil up about once a month (mine likes to drink a lot) unfortunately, the thing died at the side of the road and couldn't be restarted. Ironically, it died on its way to the mechanic (not the dealer but a very good local European car specialist)
Not a cheap repair but the car drives fantastic now. I am glad I didn't need full cam shaft replacement and that the magnets were the only thing that needed replacing.
Car had 155,000km (about 96,000mi) when it finally went.
Very informative video! I just did the timing assembly on my mk5 a few days ago and wondered what was behind that intake cam sprocket.. duhh of course it’s the phase adjustment. But beyond that, when performing the work I heard some interesting noises and seen some weird things with this motor. I’m glad I get to see another expert explain the full function in detail
OBD 11 lol. Did we jump 9 generations in on-board diagnostics? Just kidding. Awesome video! Anything informative is greatly appreciated!
My oil light came on this week. I checked and it's super low. Again. I have a 1.8 TSI.
I felt like he was personally calling me out in the video 😂
Me too 😂 my 1.8 eats oil I’ve been adding a quart a month for awhile now 🥺
I changed my pan now its half a quart 2500miles. It is very loud in when i start guessing need new magnet as one of the guy stated above in comments. Man can’t afford a camshaft labor gonna be hella expensive just spent 1500$ on water pump n carbon cleaning 😅
Running out to check the oil level in my wife's GTI right now! Thanks for this excellent video!
I just got an oil change at my vw shop but now this videos making me go check my oil 🤣
Holy shit. Hands down your videos are the best on TH-cam. Informative AND they crack me the fug up 😂
This was the Best video I have ever saw in regards to repairing anything on car. Blowed my mind away. 🤯
Man good job keep it up ! 😁😳
( not a Vag owner ) 😂
Great video! Cool to see what the inside of my cars engine looks like and the process of replacing the camshaft.
whew title scared me I have the GTI though and do my own oil, hasnt been burning oil and I havent had any of those codes come up when I scan. Glad this seems like mostly a preventable issue.
I had this problem, it was difficult to get a fault code out of it for some reason. Only replaced the magnetic piece that's hold by 3 allen screws on the intake side and the problem was fixed.
I did the same 3 months ago and now my issues is back lol
As a fresh vw/Audi tech this video is a blessing. Now I know why ea888’s are so noisy😂there’s never any OIL
😂😂😂😂 My favorite DAP video of all time. Informative. And hilarious.
you are best speaking on youtube ever!
This made me give my GTI a much needed oil change.
Very informative video. I learnt a lot about my POS engine.. Thank you!
Yup, I had this exact issue at about 150k miles, my MK7 GTI was totaled by a drunk driver a few weeks after but I had the exact same camshaft codes, same tick, loss of power at the high end and issues would appear seemingly out of nowhere!
I have replaced so many of these cams in the past 3 months. As you said, mostly 1.8’s. Thank God these cams (non-lift control) are only like $400. The gen 1 cams are over $1k. The other common failure I’ve seen is the lock pin deciding it doesn’t want to lock anymore. You unplug the cam magnet and the timing keeps wandering.
My MK7 1.8t runs pretty well but it's idle is sometimes erratic. I've been using 5w40 for the last 30,000 miles because for some reason when I use 5w30 I get oil pressure errors when the car is idling for a few minutes (beeing at a stop light for 5 minutes for example). Topping the oil level to the max with 5w40 help to eliminate the oil pressure error, but I still have sudden shakes at idle from time to time and sporadic jerky movements when I move from a full stop. What are your thoughts on this issue? Could it be related to faulty camshaft?
@@luisarsuaga7637 It could be a cam, however unless you’re getting a decent rattle noise at idle almost all of the time, I’d say you’re good. It’s more than likely the cam magnet (plastic disc with a plug in the end) is failing. We do tons of those at the dealer. Easiest way to tell, let the car warmup and idle. When the engine starts stumbling, unplug that magnet and see what happens. If the magnet has failed, the idle should smooth out almost immediately. The magnet is $125 and pretty easy to replace. Just make sure you replace the three T30 screws that hold it in place. They’re aluminum and will break off if you reuse the old ones. Also if you plan to do the work, follow the torque specs precisely on those bolts or the new ones will break.
@@JohnEvans-ct6mz that's great information! Thanks for the reply!!
@@JohnEvans-ct6mz I have a question, do you really need the tool which were showed in the video for the tensioner? It looks like you can do it without the tool.
@@Fetii I presume you are referring to the tool to release the tensioner. If you do the repair without removing the lower timing cover, you absolutely need that tool. It allows you to compress the tensioner to release the tension on the chain. If you don’t use it, the tensioner has enough spring pressure to fully extend itself and you will be unable to install the new cam. If you remove the lower timing cover, you can remove the tensioner completely and avoid using the tool but you have to reseal the cover, and find a way to keep the sprocket from popping off of the crankshaft. That tool also gives you the necessary leverage to compress the tensioner, the spring is quite strong.
i've had this issue on my '14 mk7 gti on idle exclusively and replacing the spool valve on admission camshaft solved it. I've had 20k km since then, never heard it.
Good video for explaining how the cams work, but a little bit dramatic. If that knocking sound is there, but goes away when magnetic solenoid is unplugged, the first port of call should he to replace the magnets. Failing that, next up is the spool valve of whichever cam is making the noise - most likely, will be intake. Make sure you carefully order the right valve for your car, very imoortant. This will in most cases likely fix the issue without having to tear apart the rest. Of course, it may be that the camshaft is indeed bad - but DAP should explain what I and others have just said rather than immediately jumping to 'the whole camshaft is bad'
Thanks for this comment! I have the noise for 1 second max on start up (no fault codes).
I can't really measure it with unplugging the magnet as its so brief (or could unplug before starting the engine?) I've checked the cam phase adaptations on vcds and the intake is at 0.3 degrees but exhaust is at 2.6 degrees. Am I to assume that it's actually the exhaust magnet/spool/camshaft making the noise? Thanks in advance.
@@CabinetFramingUK If it only happens for a split second on cold start up, it is unlikely either than magnet or spool valve is your issue as the rattling with these problems is persistent at idle, and with a scan tool you can see the inlet cam timing hunting up and down. These cars do normally sometimes make a somewhat odd noise on cold start....I believe it's to do with additional air injection, could that be what is happening with yours?
My GTI burned oil from day one but not much, made to 100k with only a heater core issue that leaked like crazy. Honestly it was the most reliable car I’ve ever had. During Covid it was hit and run, took 3 months for it to go to the shop and they started it with no oil and ruined the engine. Don’t know where the oil was leaking from after the hit but I made sure to let my insurance and the car crafters know but they didn’t check the oil before starting the engine.
This.... made me check my oil today. And we are good for now.
I got a used gti financed.. had to return it worked good until it didn’t.. spent 3 weeks in the shop in the first two months of owning it was crazy
Well done Paul, very similar to BMW Vanos. Good, clean Oil is the key.
thank you, watching your video makes me understand the source of my frustruation with my 2015 gti. :)
My audi a5 gen 3 engine had a failed solenoid camshaft valve on intake and exhaust. replaced both wit oem parts and solved my ticking problems.
@2:31 that TSI sounds like my TDI
Man... I came here expecting the infamous sunroof leaking issue which plagues so many MK7's
I just had my rear upper break light resealed as that was letting water in. Oh and also the pressure vents behind the rear bumper. Still got water on my rear right door sill after resealing speaker seals and clearing drainage pipe in door. Not sure what it can be now
Paul, you are absolutely hilarious man, keep up the great work and videos.
I'm probably older than most of you guys and as a rule of thumb, you should check your oil level weekly, i've been doin' it from i was a teenager advised by the elders. Nowadays epecially cars of today with a turbo!
That's how to do it,until modern engineers decided that dipsticks are not required on engines.You just get an idiot light on the panel instead.
I had a similar problem but the timing jitter was around 3-4 degrees. Replacing just the electromagnet fixed it. Even after cleaning the push pin, it still moves roughly on the bench (I use a variable power supply). The push pin was just worn out. It holds to 0.5 degrees now.
Thanks for the video it is very helpful I as a automotive worker really learned something helpful ❤❤❤
I've personally had 3 different Gen 3 motors all owned from New.
2017 Jetta Sport 1.8T (Mexico) (Same engine platform) - Zero Oil issues - Traded @ 48k Miles. 30k of the miles were with Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output.
2019 Jetta GLI Autobahn 2.0T (Mexico) (Same as GTI engine) - Zero Oil Issues - VW Bought back/Lemon'd it @28k Miles for unfixable A/C issue. 10k of the Miles were with a Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output.
2020 Arteon SEL R-Line 4Motion 2.0T (Germany) (Tuned Down Golf R) - Zero Oil Issues - Currently @ 22K Miles - AWD forced me to buy a set of 4 new tires at 10k due to 2 - consecutive weeks of blowouts due to shitty roads by our office.... And then brakes require rotors and pads at only 20k.
None of my 3 modern VWs with same engine family have had oil related issues at all even with me romping HARD on them. The only thing I've done is consistent maintenance by the book, always, always, always follow the break-in procedure to a tee, and only use Top-Tier branded gasoline and keeping every receipt for record 😅
Maybe its luck but I've only had issues with everything but engine/oil issues lol. But I've also been lucky enough to not have gone past 50k miles though so who knows. Maybe after some miles they get worse 😅
Just my experience 😁
TL;DR - 3 VWs with same engine family no engine or oil issues. Only other things 😅
I did this job diy 4 years ago on a earlier TSI, Wish I had this video back then 😢
Really good video Paul , just asking , did you used RTV to seal the valve cover ?
My U.K. car is a 20l5 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 diesel which may be a big issue in time is the double overhead camshafts area chain driven which is at the rear of the engine so fun and games if it needs replaceing
My MK7.5 started drinking oil at 6k miles, dealers just kept saying it was "Normal", had to drive around with oil because the "Check oil level" light kept coming on.
Then she started knock, knock, knockin' when i was in the McDonalds drive-thru. Needless to say, I sold it back to the dealer with 10k miles on it.
Would be nice to have a repair kit with seals
We had the problem on the GTI, but it was the solenoid that caused it. started to stutter like a maniac. noone thought this would fail at 40k miles so it wasnt the first thing to be changed in the end. Killed the timing chain in the process.
Wanted to post here in case it helps anyone else out. My MK6 Jetta GLI started having this issue and at first I thought that I was out of luck for getting a replacement vvt oil valve for the original camshaft (miscommunication with the parts guy). The factory spool valve is part 06K 109 257. This part is 21mm and fits the original camshaft, but there is a new valve that is 20mm and fits the updated camshaft. After some research, I was able to replace this part with 06L 109 257F to fix the rattling issue.
Had the exact problem, was chasng the cause of it for about a year and half. Problem with my car wasnt in oil starvation, but worned out magnets and camshaft actuators. They were completely blocked. After putting new ones, the sound mentioned in the video showed after 5k km. After replacing them with the new ones, the sound was gone, but car was losing oil pressure at about 3k rpm and went into limp mode when warm oil. Oil pressure test showed everything was fine. Then after a year, low oil pressure warning came up. I found that the camshafts were losing presure in cambridge. New cambridge and camshafts, but then the turbo blew. Hopefully everything is ok now
Really helpful and descriptive video once again! Quick question tho, what did you guys use as a pin to hold the tensioner?
Was about to life my GTI to resolve an oil leak. Stopped once I got the notification and am currently watching this...lol.
Thanks!
Bring back the 2.8L 24v VR6.... VW's best, most reliable engine! Mine's been running flawlessly now for 21 years.... yes, TWENTY ONE YEARS!
I knew from the very beginning to change oil way more often than the dealer says, and use the OEM oil filter with the specified oil. Engine will last a long time, even if it’s being driven hard
I agree...I bought my MK7 brand new and only drove maybe 8000-10000KM per year (and that kilometers) and I changed mine twice a year still. I did the intake service too once a year until I sold it. It didn't burn a drop of oil and didn't give me problems. That extra maintenance was so easy and I felt good about selling it knowing I'd done what I can to prolong it's life
Every segment Paul has another piece of ShopDap gear on… love the content and the informative videos. Is there any more coming for the Mk7 Alltrack project?
So this hits the mk7 GTI, Golf, Golf R.
Jetta GLI too? MQB Tiguan? Just wondering how extensive?
brilliant video. very simple and straight to the point. Very helpful
Hi sir very nice explanation and information ,must of the new cars and trucks have the problem of consuming oil so people think you don't have to check oil level between oil change period and excess of time an kilometers or milles because they use synthetic oil...blessings
Great video. Certainly put me off trying it just looking at the tools needed..
Couple of questions. 1. Is this uncommon problem affecting both the CXCA/CXCB and DKFA versions of this EA888?? 2. Where is the "f*cking oil" going? I know on my 2020 GTI I lose about 8-10 oz of oil every 2-3k miles. My tail pipes are spotless, no leaks, and no check engine lights. I mean if it was burning it?? The O2 sensors would pick it up. I mean damn those sensors are so sensitive in these newer cars you fart in the car the check engine light comes on. Is is it just evaporative loss?? and if so, could this be resolved by using a 504 oil instead of a 508?? Thank Your for your Time and Input.👍
Following
been thinking about going import (other than honda)... Been searching for hours for most common issues with these cars. I would hate to get a new(er) car and not be able to work on it. This video helps
Love watching your TH-cam Chanel. I take it that you actually like a VW products. Are they really reliable? Please share your opinion.
Thanks! This channel is doooope and so was this video, wish I could be as smart as you! Maybe one day I will learn how to do mechanic work for my own cars!
Love it!
Great video!
Check your oil!
Sos un maestro te quiero 👏🏻🇩🇪😎
I have a 2016 VW GLI with 140K miles on the clock now. The only two things that ever broke were the clockspring and a single rear ABS sensor, both of which the VAG is obviously unable to fix. Otherwisely, at this time the oil consumption is 1 Qt per 4K miles and everything else is as good as new. I've been changing the oil every 5K since day one, OEM, and it seemed to have done the trick. I'm still to decarb the car for the very first time, just as a preventative measure, no misfires or anything like that.
I’ve allready changed both on my GTI 😂 first the admission one and after 40k kms de exhaust. maybe more common than we think
I only changed the outside magnet and solved the problem
My car makes that sound now (@ 2:32) and throws a P0341 at the moment. Yay🎉
Lack of service and care is the cause of most problems with any vehicle, not the manufacturer. Thanks for sharing.
The problem he doesn’t mention is that these engine eat oil and it gets lower over time.
Yes, but when it uses a quart ever 1000 miles and they tell you to change your oil every 10k miles leaves you with -- 5 quarts ?
It would be really helpful if the manufacturer was honest. Change your oil every 3k miles and you wouldn't have gunked up rings burning oil in the first place. Would be nice if we could trust the manufacturers advice. SMH
Excellent informational video, I am now convinced to replace the intake cam on my 2011 TFSI 2.0. aihave been battling timing error codes, engine was rebuild, pistons replaced oil pump, balance shafts Exct. . . .new timing components and still had timing issue codes, intake cam was never replaced 💀💀Wish me Luck 🫡
I change the oil every 5K in my 2018 Golf 1.8 TSI Gen 3. Also check it frequently. After 75K, no problems and no oil use. If you are obsessive about performing all maintenance on your VW you should have no problems. If not, expect big problems.
Yes and No...
they are no Toyotas that changing the oil will save you from a auto shop repair bill once past 100k. If it is DSG, there is no way around replacing the flywheel at high miles, the water pump, coil packs, oil pump, wheel bearings are normal tear and wear in the 100k to 200k mile range. A Toyota can go 300k and maybe need a new water pump or a bad bearing tensioner as long as oil changes are made, something that cannot achieved by VW if doing the same.
I have seen many 1.8 cams for sure. But actually what I have seen more is the actual magnets that control the oil movement.
My car has a ticking sound similar to this, but does not happen at idle. Replaced the magnet and oil control valve but still have a knock sound. Let me know if you would be willing to talk to me about this issue, I cant find anybody that knows anything about these engines! Took the car to a shop and they said nothing is wrong...
Great video and explanation.
Alright this my new fav video thanks man.
Well, this is depressing. My 1.8T sounds like this all the time. I check the oil weekly and add LiquiMoly as required. At 118,000 mi, I had wondered if I should check the upper valves for carbon build up. If the camshaft needs to be replaced, RepairPal estimates a $2,800 repair, which is just over half of what I still owe on the loan. Seriously wondering if I should find a remanufactured engine or rebuild or something. This car's resale value is going to tank, especially with used car prices coming back to reality. Thanks for the video!
You can start by replacing the adjuster magnet only and maybe cleaning the spool valve. There should also be new spool valves that aren't just the most current revision, too. You'd just need to get the right part number
Paul I would like to know how much it would come out to put a turbo and change the time chain to my Volkswagen GTI MK6 ... I like your videos every day you get funnier
What’s wrong with the camshaft ? Why are we not just replacing the seals ?
Interesting! I was concerned that was what the issue was on my 1.8 gen 3 in my Sportwagen but it was the timing chain tensioners....at ~70K the bolts holding it to the block snapped.
😲
Lovely.
As if the water pump on the wife's 2014 Jetta wasn't enough bs to piss you off from being plastic leaking junk ,now this.
Definitely selling this thing in a couple years.
90k on it now ,I'll definitely sell it by 130k.